YOU’RE ALMOST FINISHED STITCHING, but you dread the next step? Although finishing may never be one of your favorite tasks, with the right knowledge you may find it becomes less onerous.
Q What is the first step in finishing?
A Starting out right. An important but often overlooked aspect of finishing starts before you first pick up your hook. Knowing what to expect of your fabric and using good technique throughout make the final finishing steps easier.
Use your washed and blocked swatch to practice borders, buttonholes, and any other finishing details.
SEE ALSO: Pages 123–25, for working a swatch.
Q Too late. I didn’t read that part and I’ve already finished stitching. What do I do now?
A Once again the answer is: “It depends.” The finishing methods you choose depend in part on the yarn, the fabric you have made, and the purpose of the finished item. For instance, if you are making a stuffed toy, you can just stuff it and sew it together with no blocking. If you are making a thread doily, on the other hand, you need to wash, block, and starch it. If you are making a garment, you may need to block the pieces before you sew them together, then add edgings or other finishing touches. No matter what the finishing method, the first step is weaving in ends.
Q How do I weave in ends?
A There is no one right way to weave in ends. Whatever works for you and you are happy with is right. The ends don’t have to be invisible from the wrong side, but you don’t want them slipping to the front of the work to be seen by all and sundry.
weaving in ends
Here’s one method that works well on most fabrics: Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail. (When beginning and ending a yarn, always leave at least a 6” (15 cm) tail, so you’ll have an end to work with.) On the wrong side, run the tip of the tapestry needle through the weaving in ends back of several stitches in one direction, then turn and run it through the back of every other stitch in the other direction, or through the back of every stitch on the next row in the other direction. You may need to try a variety of ways to get ends to stay put, depending on your yarn and fabric. If you’re working with silk, rayon, or other slippery yarns, you need longer tails so that you can weave them diagonally one way and then diagonally in the other direction.
If you have long tails left where you finished a ball and are going to be sewing a seam, you may leave those alone for now. You can either use those ends for seaming, or work the tails into the seam after it is made.
Q Any tips on threading a tapestry needle? I hate the way the yarn always seems to split when I try.
A The easy way? Fold the yarn tail over the needle and pinch it up near the needle. Holding your fingers next to the needle, slide the yarn off the pointed end of the needle and insert the folded end into the needle’s eye.
Q What if my ends are too short to weave in?
A You can use a crochet hook or latch hook to draw the ends under other stitches. Next time you make something, be more generous with the ends so that you’ll have more to work with.
Q How do I weave in ends on a chain?
A This presents a bit more of a problem, since you don’t have much there to weave into. With a tapestry needle, go back and forth around the bump on the reverse side of the chain, or try going round and round that bump. Tug the chain a bit before trimming the ends to allow the tails to stretch with the chains. Try different methods to see what works best with your yarn.
Q What is blocking? Do I have to do it?
A Blocking is the means by which pieces are shaped to their final measurements, using moisture and sometimes heat. It may be compared to ironing seams open in sewing, but it is not ironing!
Blocking sets the stitches and may enhance the drape of the fabric. It can make all the difference between a “homemade” sweater and a “handmade” sweater. Blocking makes it easier to work seams and edges on blocked pieces, and may enable you to make minor size adjustments. But blocking is not the time to correct size problems caused by inaccurate gauge calculations. It’s too late for that!
Many crocheted items benefit from a quick dose of steam and some, like doilies, require blocking in order to reach their final shape.
Q What materials do I need in order to block?
A Depending on which blocking method you use, you need rustproof pins; a steamer, steam iron, or plant mister; and water.
Q What kind of work space do I need?
A It needs to be large and flat, so that the pieces lie flat without hanging over the edge. An ironing board works for small pieces, but you often need something bigger.
The work space needs to be able to withstand some abuse, as it is subjected to moisture and/or heat, as well as to being stuck with pins. It also needs to remain undisturbed until the blocking is finished — from a few minutes to a day or more, depending on the circumstances. For example, wet cotton can take days to dry in the humid summer season. (Voice of Experience: Cats love warm, steamy fabric. A door that closes securely is a bonus.)
Q Do I need to buy a special blocking board?
A No, although having a blocking board made especially for the purpose is a great tool if you have the space to store it. These are available from retailers, or you can make your own from a piece of rigid insulation board purchased from your local home improvement center. Be sure to cover the insulation board with colorfast cotton cloth.
Q If I don’t have a blocking board, what should I do?
A You can use a spare bed, a carpeted corner of a room, a large sofa cushion, or a piece of foam rubber. Cover it with a waterproof layer, such as an old shower curtain or trash bag, topped by a couple of layers of towels or blankets. Be sure the towels are old so their colors won’t bleed onto your work. (Voice of Experience: Count the number of pins you use and be sure to collect them all when you finish. You don’t want to share your bed, carpet, or sofa with large straight pins.)
Q Is there more than one way to block?
A You can choose among three basic methods, based on the fiber content of your yarn and your own preference:
Wet blocking, for fibers that can tolerate plenty of water
Q Which blocking method should I use?
A Look at your yarn label; it may indicate the best blocking method for that yarn. If different fibers have been combined in the same item, choose the method appropriate for the most delicate fiber. Most animal fibers (wool, mohair, alpaca) tolerate steaming. Plant fibers like cotton and linen can be wet blocked. Some man-made fibers can be ruined by too much heat, so wet or cold blocking is best for those. Novelty and metallic yarns may not be suitable for any type of blocking.
Q How does wet blocking work?
A Wash or thoroughly wet the pieces, then squeeze out excess water. Do not wring or twist! Place pieces face down on the blocking surface and pat into shape. Use a yardstick to make sure the pieces are the size you want. Check to be sure that each sleeve is blocked to the same dimension. Pin onto the blocking surface at each corner and at approximately 2–3″ (5–7.5 cm) intervals along edges. (Voice of Experience, emphatic: Make sure your pins are rustproof. Rust stains do not come out.) Allow the items to dry. If you are impatient, you can set up a fan to blow over the surface to hasten drying.
wet blocking
Q What’s the procedure for cold blocking?
A Place the dry pieces on the blocking surface as for wet blocking and pin along each edge. Check your measurements, and make sure that the rustproof pins are close enough together so they don’t distort the fabric. Spritz the pieces with clean water until they are damp. Allow them to dry.
Q How do I steam block?
A Fill a steam iron or steamer with water and use the “steam” setting. Using the dry pieces, measure and pin as for wet blocking. Hold the iron no closer than 1″ (2.5 cm) over fabric, and allow steam to work into fabric. Move the iron as needed to cover entire fabric. Do not press or allow the iron to touch the fabric. Leave undisturbed until pieces are cool and dry.
Q What’s the recommended way to block three-dimensional pieces?
A Wet blocking may be the best bet. Get the pieces damp, then stuff them with rolled-up plastic grocery bags or other waterproof material. If the piece is round, fill it with an inflated balloon. Leave it undisturbed until it is dry. You can put a hat on a wig stand.
Q How do I block a doily?
A Doilies, snowflakes, and other lacy thread crochet items sometimes come off the hook looking a bit like a rag, but careful blocking brings out their beauty.
To ensure that your points are symmetrical, prepare a template for the piece by drawing the desired shape on a piece of paper. Cover the paper with plastic wrap or wax paper, and place it on your blocking board. If you are going to starch the piece, do so now. Otherwise, wash or wet the item thoroughly, then pin it onto the template using rustproof pins. You may need to stretch it a bit. Start by pinning opposite sides and the major points, then pin out scallops or any other special shaping. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
You may find it helpful to copy and enlarge the sample doily blocker on the facing page.
sample doily blocker
Q How do I stiffen thread crochet?
A Whether and how you stiffen your thread crochet item depends on its intended use. Three-dimensional items like baskets may require a permanent hard finish, while doilies may look better with a softer hold. When you select your starch, keep in mind that some turn yellow with age and many are not resistant to moisture.
Powdered or liquid starch. Follow mixing directions on the container. You can make the item stiffer, if desired, by using a higher concentration of starch than directed.
Sugar starch. Boil together equal parts sugar and water until syrupy. Allow to cool slightly. This is an old-fashioned method and easy to do, but it may attract ants. In addition, sugar-starched items may wilt in high humidity.
Cornstarch. Mix 6 parts water to 1 part cornstarch and water. Cook over medium heat until thickened. Allow to cool slightly.
Glue. Mix well equal parts white glue and water. As with sugar starch, dampness can be a problem with glue-starched items.
There are several other commercial stiffening products on the market, each with different holding properties. Follow instructions on the container.
Q Blocking sounds like too much trouble. Do I always have to do it?
A No. Some things really are fine without any blocking at all. Some three-dimensional pieces might be difficult to handle, certain fibers may not be suitable for blocking, and very small items such as Christmas ornaments may not need it at all. Some acrylics do best with a simple trip through the washer and dryer. Most natural fibers, garments, and anything that needs to be seamed, however, benefit from a good blocking.
Q My afghan squares aren’t all the same size. Is there anything I can do about it?
A Oops! If you notice the problem right away, before you finish stitching, check to be sure you are following the instructions correctly and that you didn’t accidentally change hook sizes. If the squares are done in different stitch patterns, however, you may have to use a different hook size for each stitch pattern in order for all the squares to come out the same size.
If you notice the problem after you’ve made all of your squares, maybe you can block them to match. Blocking can sometimes accomplish small size changes, but don’t count on brute force and a bit of steam to make a 10″ (25 cm) square into a 12″ (30 cm) square. Instead, try working an extra round or two on the smaller squares to bring them up to size.
If just a few squares are larger than the others, perhaps you can take out a round or two to bring them into line, or re-stitch the large ones on a smaller hook.
Q How do I join separate motifs?
A You have a lot of choices here. Your joining method is dependent on the look you want and on the type of stitch you used on the last round of your square. Do you want the join to be part of the overall design, or do you want it to be invisible, or almost so? Stitching the final round of each square in the same color makes invisible joining easier. A single crochet or reverse single crochet join on the right side, on the other hand, makes the join a decorative element.
Experiment with each of the options listed below to determine which one looks best with your project, if specific joining instructions are not given in your published pattern or if you want a different look to your finished project than the original shown in a photo.
No matter which method you use, check from time to time to make sure you are working at the correct tension. The seams should have a similar feel and fluidity to the rest of the fabric.
whipstitching through back loops only
SEE ALSO: Page 253, for illustration of single crochet join.
SEE ALSO: Pages 252–53, for slip stitch and single crochet joins.
SEE ALSO: Page 249, for joining motifs as you work.
Q How do I work a chain stitch join?
A This decorative joining method is usually done on square pieces. Arrange the squares in the desired pattern. Slip stitch (or single crochet) in corner of one square to join yarn, chain 3, then slip stitch (or single crochet) into the second or third stitch from the corner of the adjacent square. Continue to alternate slip stitches (or single crochet) and 3-stitch chains back and forth between the squares, skipping one or more stitches between each joining stitch.
chain stitch join
Q Is it possible to adapt the chain stitch join for a granny square?
A Yes. Slip stitch (or single crochet) into the corner of one granny square, ch 3, stitch into the center stitch of the first dc-3 group on the adjacent square, chain 3, stitch into the ch-1 space of the first square, and so on.
chain stitch join for granny square
Q How do I join motifs as I work?
A This method works when the final round of each motif has a lacy or openwork edge. If you are working from a published pattern, the instructions may explain how to join the motifs as you work. If you don’t have finishing instructions, look at your motifs and see how they fit together. Draw a diagram so you can see where the motifs touch. Do they meet at certain points only or do they touch along the entire edge?
Complete one motif. On the final round of the next motif, work to the spot where the motifs should touch and insert the hook into the first motif to make a stitch at the spot where they touch (probably a chain space). Continue to work the final round of the second motif, joining to the first motif at appropriate points in the same manner.
Q How do I assemble my sweater pieces?
A Sweaters are usually put together in the following order:
1. Sew shoulder seams.
2. Work front and neck borders, and possibly lower edges.
3. Set in sleeves.
4. Sew body and underarm seams.
5. Work lower edge if not already done.
For comfort, you need to use a seaming method that creates little bulk on the inside of the sweater. Experiment to determine the best method for your sweater.
You may slip stitch or whip stitch the shoulder seams from the wrong side. You’ll probably want to use mattress stitch to work the side and underarm seams, as it makes a flexible, virtually invisible join. Some people prefer to use slip stitch or single crochet to join all sweater pieces.
Q What is mattress stitch?
A Mattress stitch is done using a tapestry needle and working on the right side of the fabric. After all, that’s the side that needs to look good, and so you want to be able to keep an eye on how the seam is shaping up. Working from the right side makes matching stripes or stitch patterns a breeze.
1. Hold the pieces to be joined with right sides facing up, side-by-side and parallel to each other. Use a blunt-tip tapestry needle and a length of the same yarn you stitched with. If you have a long tail left over from the foundation chain at one corner, begin with that. If you need to start mattress stitch a new yarn, leave a 6″ (15 cm) tail to be woven in later, but don’t knot the yarn.
mattress stitch
2. Insert the needle vertically under and out a stitch on one piece and then under and out of a stitch exactly opposite on the other piece. Moving up a row on the first piece, stitch under the next stitch on that side, then under the corresponding stitch on the second piece. Do this a couple of more times on each side, then tug gently on the working yarn to pull the two pieces together. Don’t pull too hard, just hard enough to get them to sit next to each other.
3. Continue stitching back and forth between the pieces and snugging them together every so often for the length of the seam. When the seaming is complete, weave in the ends of the seaming yarn.
Q How do I handle mattress stitch with various kinds of stitches?
A When you are joining single crochet fabric, you’ll probably go into every stitch on each side. If you are working with a double or treble crochet fabric, you may need to put a stitch into the side of each post as well as at the top or bottom of the stitch. When using a fancy or openwork pattern stitch, you’ll have to experiment to discover the best place to put your seaming stitches.
Q How do I slip stitch pieces together?
A This is done on the wrong side of the fabric. Hold the pieces to be joined with right sides together. Insert the hook all the way through both edge stitches. Yarn over and pull through a loop. *Insert the hook into the next pair of stitches and pull up a loop through both layers of fabric and on through the first loop on hook; repeat from * until the entire length is joined. Slip stitch seams can be tight and unforgiving. As you work, stop and examine what you’ve done to insure that you have maintained an even tension. If your seam is too tight, you may need to use a larger hook than the one you used on the garment.
slip stitch join
Q How do I single crochet pieces together?
A This is similar to making a slip stitch seam, but you work single crochet instead of slip stitch. The seam is bulkier yet more flexible than a slip stitch seam.
single crochet join
Q Why don’t my pieces fit together evenly?
A Count your rows or stitches to make sure they are the same on each piece to be joined. If not, can you add or remove a row or two? Did your gauge change? Try sewing the pieces from the right side, matching row for row.
You may be able to block them to the same size, or possibly adjust which rows/stitches you are joining a bit when you sew them together to make a better match. (Just a little adjusting here: Don’t try to hide a 2″ (5 cm) difference, as a buckling seam is sure to give away your secret!)
Q How do I insert a zipper into a sweater?
A First, choose a zipper appropriate for your garment. Heavy-weight separating zippers are suitable for outer garments like heavy jackets and coats. Medium-weight zippers are meant for cardigans. The length of the zipper should match the length of the opening. Here’s how to do it:
1. Sew the sweater pieces together as far as possible, leaving the zipper for last.
2. Right-side facing, pin one edge of the zipper to the wrong side of the fabric, taking care to keep it in a straight line with the fabric’s edge. To hide the zipper, make the edges of the crocheted fabric cover the center of the zipper. To feature the zipper as a design element, place the center of the zipper a bit further away from the fabric’s edge.
3. Baste the zipper in place with sewing thread.
4. Repeat this process on the other side of the zipper, centering the zipper between the fabrics. Check to ensure that the basted-in zipper is straight.
5. On the right side, with sewing thread in the same color as your yarn, back stitch the zipper in place near the edge of the fabric.
6. On the wrong side, whipstitch the outer edges of the zipper to the fabric.
Q What stitch pattern is best for a zipper placket?
A The edge of the crocheted fabric should be finished with a firm, straight border, such as two or three rows of single crochet. A final row of backward single crochet makes a nice decorative edge.
