April
ENTERTAINING WITH JULIA A Colorful Spring Luncheon Celebrate the return of alfresco dining with Julia’s spring menu
Beyond the Boil When it comes to cooking crawfish, we’ve got more ways than one
QUICK-FIX SUPPERS $15 Chicken Dinners Fast and flavorful on the cheap
WHAT CAN I BRING? Spinach-and-Vidalia Dip A creamy crowd-pleaser to showcase spring vegetables
ONE AND DONE Spice Up Your Night Sausage, beans, and potatoes simmer in a stick- to-your ribs soup that takes minimal effort
THE SL TEST KITCHEN ACADEMY 3 Delicious Kinds of Caramelized Onions and How to Make a Cutlet from a Chicken Thigh Master these kitchen tricks
COOKING LIGHT Give It a Twirl Asparagus adds freshness to classic fettuccine Alfredo
SAVE ROOM Chocolate Matzo Madness Salty meets sweet in this Passover treat
COMMUNITY COOKBOOK Love & Lemons authors’ inventive use of garden-fresh ingredients may make you want every day to be meatless Monday
A Colorful Spring Luncheon
JULIA REED KEEPS HER PALETTE AND PALATE IN SYNC FOR THIS OUTDOOR AFFAIR
Varying shades of yellow are always a pretty complement to blue and white.
SPRING TO ME ALWAYS means acres of yellow and white blooms because as soon as the winter weather abates, my mother’s expansive front lawn in Greenville, Mississippi, is covered in thousands of daffodils. When I’m back home in The Delta, I love to stage “welcome spring” lunches outside in the midst of all the beauty, where even the food is inspired by the color palette. In New Orleans, where the soggy soil keeps bulbs from thriving, I still head outdoors, but my golden table flowers are usually from the flower shop: tulips, roses, ranunculus, and (when I’m especially lucky) glorious pale yellow peonies.
These lunches are almost always set on a background of blue and white, not least because I have a dozen tablecloths in an indigo toile left over from my stepdaughter’s wedding reception. As it happens, the tablecloths are not only the perfect foil for flowers of almost every color but also for food. “One reason blue and white is so special for a table setting is because there are few blue foods,” says über-decorator Bunny Williams. “So anything you serve looks fabulous on it.” Williams and her husband, John Rosselli, are avid collectors of blue-and-white porcelain, including lots of 18th- and 19th-century Canton ware (George Washington was a fan), but Williams has never been a snob. She mixes in new inexpensive pieces from pearlriver.com. I add similar plates and bowls from shops in various Chinatowns around the country to my own collection of Blue Willow. The latter is a late-18th-century English pattern designed by Thomas Minton, who was inspired by the masses of Canton ware heading west from China.
While it’s fun to add the cheap stuff to far finer blue and white (which might also include antique Wedgwood or Delftware, Royal Crown Derby’s lush Blue Aves, or Royal Copenhagen’s graceful Half Lace), I also inject color by mixing in other china patterns. With yellow flowers, I pull out my set of antique yellow-and-white tableware. But with deep-pink roses and peonies, I pull out my Herend Chinese Bouquet in Raspberry. The same pattern in Rust would look swell with a centerpiece of orange tulips.
Williams is right that pretty much anything you serve will look terrific against the blue design, but I couldn’t resist throwing in a touch of saffron and Parmesan cheese to a typically white blanquette de veau, the classic veal stew featured here. Not only do the additions give this all-too-often bland dish some zing, but also the end result goes nicely with our color scheme. With it I serve rice, noodles, or even a potato puree, along with a simple butter lettuce salad and some fresh spring peas or tender asparagus. For an aperitif, I offer a refreshing Champagne cocktail, and for dessert, a cold lemon mousse. Not only does it match the yellow scheme, but also its light texture and fresh, zesty flavor speak to me of spring.
Raspberry china and deep-pink flowers also pop against the blue toile.
Add a pinch more saffron to your stew (recipe, page 95) for a deeper color and slightly more exotic flavor.
Finding the Tablecloth
There are plenty of affordable blue toiles out there, including Waverly’s Sunny Field Toile Delft or Charmed Life Toile Cornflower. (Both of these patterns are similar to mine and are available for purchase on fabric.com.) You could also use a simple blue-and-white ticking or even a small check. For a splurge, be sure to check out Bennison Fabric’s stunning Waikiki in Faded Blue on Oyster (bennisonfabrics.com).
JULIA’S SPRING STEW
THE RECIPE
SAFFRON VEAL STEW
Serve over noodles, rice, or potato puree.
4 lb. veal stew meat, cut into 2-inch pieces
3 ½ tsp. kosher salt, divided
1½ tsp. black pepper, divided
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
¼ cup olive oil, divided
1 cup dry white wine
2 leeks
1 large onion, halved and studded with 2 whole cloves
2 carrots, quartered
2 celery ribs, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, sliced
1 lemon, peel removed in strips with a vegetable peeler
2 bay leaves
2 fresh thyme sprigs
4 cups chicken broth, divided
1 tsp. saffron threads
1 cup peeled pearl onions
3 Tbsp. (1½ oz.) salted butter, divided
2 (8-oz.) pkg. button mushrooms
1 cup crème fraîche
3 Tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese
3 Tbsp. minced fresh chives
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon leaves
1. Sprinkle veal with 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper; sprinkle with flour, and toss to coat.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven over high. Add veal, and cook, in batches if necessary, until browned on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer veal to a paper towel-lined sheet pan. Add wine to Dutch oven, and stir, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pot. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer until wine is reduced by half.
3. Cut and discard root ends and dark green tops from leeks, reserving white and pale-green parts only. Cut into 1-inch pieces, and rinse thoroughly.
4. Return veal to Dutch oven. Add leeks and next 7 ingredients, and cook, stirring often, until vegetables begin to soften, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in 3 cups broth, and bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to low, add saffron, and cover. Simmer until meat is tender, about 1 hour.
5. Meanwhile, bring remaining 1 cup broth to a boil in a saucepan. Add pearl onions, 1 tablespoon butter, and ½ teaspoon salt. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer until onions are tender, about 10 minutes. Drain over a small bowl, reserving onion liquid. Set cooked pearl onions aside.
6. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter with remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over high. Add mushrooms; sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Sauté until mushrooms are browned, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
7. Pour veal mixture in Dutch oven through a colander into a large bowl. Remove veal pieces, and reserve; discard vegetables. Transfer veal sauce in bowl to Dutch oven, and bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to medium, and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Whisk in crème fraîche and Parmesan until blended and smooth, adding desired amount of reserved onion liquid if sauce is too thick. Stir in cooked veal, pearl onions, and mushrooms. Stir in chives and tarragon.
SERVES 8 (serving size: about 1 cup) ACTIVE 50 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 40 min.
LAVENDER-AND-MINT CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL
Bring 1 cup of lavender sugar (available online) and 1 cup water to a boil; cook until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, add a bunch of mint, and let it steep for 30 minutes. Strain syrup, and chill. Add a teaspoon or two (depending on size of your glass) to a Champagne flute, and top with cold Champagne.
BEYOND THE BOIL
FROM BISQUE TO ÉTOUFFÉE, CELEBRATE THE MANY WAYS TO COOK CRAWFISH
IN NEW ORLEANS, YOU CAN TELL IT’S CRAWFISH SEASON BEFORE YOU ACTUALLY GET YOUR HANDS ON ANY.
Boiling crawfish is an outdoor activity that thickens the city’s air with a tingly, cayenne-spiked aroma. This time of year, the scent is an inescapable reminder that sucking the meat from a whole boiled crawfish’s tail is one of the South’s spiciest culinary pleasures. It’s also a messy endeavor, one that you know is captivating South Louisiana when you start finding discarded crawfish shells covering the grounds of music festivals or on the street following second line parades, like spent peanut shells on the floor of a beer bar.
While freshly harvested Louisiana crawfish start making appearances on menus around the holidays, the height of the season runs roughly from February to late spring, weather depending. The freshwater crustacean is South Louisiana’s unofficial culinary mascot, so crawfish iconography—on neon signs, flags, even golf shirts—is inescapable all year long.
Louisiana’s love affair with crawfish is tightly connected with the ritual of the crawfish boil. The primal exercise of boiled crawfish eating—“pinching” and “sucking” are socially acceptable in this context—reinforces Louisiana cuisine’s lusty reputation, just as eating something that vaguely resembles an insect reinforces the notion that locals will eat anything, provided it’s properly spiced. Cayenne is a fairly constant presence in seafood spice blends, but the heat it imparts is not the defining characteristic of all boils. Clove, lemon, garlic, and even lemongrass permeate the air, in varying degrees and combinations, wherever crawfish is boiled.
At least once a year, ideally in March or April, when crawfish are at their sweet and meaty peak, I head west to Cajun Claw’s, in Abbeville, or to Hawk’s, tucked in the woods behind the rice fields in Rayne. Those two Cajun country seafood joints consistently serve the biggest crawfish, with the pearliest meat and the most finely calibrated seasoning, of any of the countless boiling houses I’ve frequented over the last 15 years.
But as these recipes demonstrate, Louisiana crawfish cookery extends well beyond the boiling pot. You’ll find the meat featured everywhere in New Orleans, from corner saloons to grand temples of French-Creole cuisine. Crawfish bisque is a particularly elegant form, especially when adorned by heads stuffed with herbaceous dressing, as at places like Li’l Dizzy’s Café, on Esplanade Avenue. Crawfish étouffée, the classic dish of stewed crawfish served over rice, is a staple from New Orleans clear to the Texas border. It’s served at such established Creole restaurants as Dooky Chase and Galatoire’s, and at Cajun lunch counters like T-Coon’s in Lafayette.
Master cooking crawfish at home and you’ll start living like Louisianans do: sautéing tails for your morning omelet, your lunchtime taco, your evening pasta. Once you get a taste for this Southern delicacy, you’ll never see the critters the same way again.
— Brett Anderson
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CRAWFISH
Don’t be intimidated by their insect-like looks. Here’s a crash course on all things crawfish–or mudbugs, if you want to talk like a local.
BUYING
Many seafood stores in the South carry crawfish in season. Or, you can order them from lacrawfish.com, deanies.com, or cajungrocer.com. The standard in South Louisiana is about 3 pounds per person. (Unlike shrimp, only a small part of a whole crawfish is actually meat.)
CLEANING
Ask your supplier if the crawfish have been cleaned before purchasing. If not, it’s easiest to clean them before bringing them inside. Place them in a cooler with a drink spout at the base. Fill with cool water, and let stand for 10 minutes. Drain the dirty water through the spout until the water runs clear.
SERVING
Enjoying crawfish outdoors is ideal, preferably piled high on a table lined with newspaper. Guests can gather around and dig in with their hands. If weather forces you indoors, serve crawfish the same way, perhaps in a garage or basement, and consider covering tables with plastic beneath the newspaper.
EATING
Pick up the boiled crawfish, and crack or twist off the head from the tail. (Be sure to suck out the juices from the head.) Remove the shell from the widest part of the tail, like you do when peeling a shrimp. Then, hold the end of the tail with one hand and gently pull out the meat from the shell.
CRAWFISH BISQUE
6 Tbsp. (3 oz.) salted butter
6 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 medium-size yellow onion, diced
1 red bell pepper, diced
2 celery ribs, diced
2 garlic cloves
1 medium tomato, diced
1½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
3 cups seafood stock
4 fresh thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
½ cup dry sherry cooking wine, divided
1 lb. frozen peeled crawfish tails, thawed and divided
½ cup heavy whipping cream
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. hot sauce
2 Tbsp. chopped chives
Oyster crackers
1. Melt butter in a saucepan over medium. Whisk in flour until combined. Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring constantly, until roux is pale brown, about 10 minutes. Add onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, tomato, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high. Whisk in stock, thyme, bay leaves, and ¼ cup cooking wine, and cook 10 minutes. Add half of crawfish, and cook 2 minutes.
2. Transfer mixture to a blender, and process until smooth, 30 seconds. Return to pan, and place over medium-low. Stir in cream, lemon juice, hot sauce, and remaining crawfish and ¼ cup cooking wine. Bring to a low simmer, and cook until heated, about 5 minutes. Spoon into six bowls, and top with chives.
SERVES 6 (serving size: 1¼ cups) ACTIVE 30 min. TOTAL 40 min.
“CRAWDOGS”
If you serve our étouffée and have leftovers, slather it on top of grilled ’dogs.
1. Coat cold cooking grate of grill with cooking spray, and place on grill. Preheat grill to medium (350°F to 450°F). Brush 8 hot dogs with ¼ cup Creole mustard. Split 8 hot dog buns (if necessary), and brush inside with 2 tablespoons melted salted butter. Place hot dogs on cooking grate, and grill, turning occasionally, until slightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer hot dogs to side of grate, away from heat, and place buns, buttered side down, over heat. Grill buns until golden brown, about 30 seconds.
2. Heat 2 cups Crawfish Étouffée in a saucepan over medium-low just until warm. Place hot dogs in buns, and spoon ¼ cup étouffée over each hot dog. If desired, top with fresh jalapeño slices, diced red onion, and diced plum tomato.
SERVES 8 (serving size: 1 hot dog, 1 bun, ¼ cup étouffée) ACTIVE 15 min. TOTAL 15 min.
CRAWFISH DIP
Cook and serve this dip in a slow cooker to keep it warm.
2 Tbsp. salted butter
½ cup diced green bell pepper
1 small yellow onion, diced (about 1 cup)
½ cup diced celery
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 jalapeño chile, diced
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
2 tsp. paprika
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
1 lb. frozen peeled crawfish tails, thawed according to package directions
8 oz. cream cheese, softened
2 cups grated extra-sharp Cheddar cheese (about 8 oz.)
¼ cup heavy whipping cream
2 Tbsp. Creole mustard
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp. hot sauce
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Crackers, toasted baguette slices
1. Melt butter in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium. Add bell pepper, onion, celery, garlic, jalapeño, salt, and black pepper, and cook 6 minutes. Add paprika and cayenne pepper, and cook 1 more minute.
2. Place crawfish, cream cheese, Cheddar cheese, and cream in a 6-quart slow cooker. Stir in bell pepper mixture, Creole mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and hot sauce. Cover and cook on HIGH 45 minutes. Reduce heat to WARM. Stir in lemon juice and parsley; serve with crackers or toasted baguette slices.
SERVES 10 as an appetizer (serving size: ¾ cup) ACTIVE 15 min. TOTAL 1 hour
SL’S STOVETOP CRAWFISH BOIL
Here’s a crawfish boil that you can do at home, without any fancy equipment—all you need is a sink, stove, and big pot.
4 ½ gal. water
2 (4-oz.) pkg. seafood boil, such as Zatarain’s Crawfish, Shrimp, and Crab Boil
2 cups kosher salt
¼ cup Creole seasoning
4 bay leaves
5 lemons, halved
2 garlic heads, halved crosswise
4 small yellow onions, halved
2 lb. small red potatoes, halved
2 large fresh artichokes
10 lb. live fresh crawfish, purged (ask your vendor)
4 ears corn, husks removed
Creole Mayo
1. Bring 4 ½ gallons water to a rolling boil in a 7- to 8-gallon stockpot over high. (Start early! This could take 30 to 40 minutes.) Add seafood boil, salt, Creole seasoning, bay leaves, lemons, garlic, and onions. Stir until spices are dissolved. Add potatoes and artichokes; return to a boil. Boil 20 minutes. Add crawfish, and simmer 5 minutes.
2. Cut each ear of corn into 4 pieces, and add to pot. Simmer 5 minutes. (If you lose your boil at any point, cover with a lid to return it to a simmer.)
3. Line a large sheet pan with newspaper or parchment paper. Pour mixture through a large colander, or remove crawfish and vegetables from water, using a slotted spoon. Place crawfish and vegetables on pan. Serve with Creole Mayo for dipping.
Tip: You’ll know the water is seasoned perfectly when it makes your eyes water.
SERVES 6 ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 20 min.
Creole Mayo
This tangy dip is a great accompaniment with the veggies in the crawfish boil.
1½ cups mayonnaise
¼ cup Creole mustard
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
2 tsp. Creole seasoning
2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon
2 tsp. hot sauce
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Whisk together all ingredients. Chill 30 minutes before serving.
Makes 2 cups (serving size: ¼ cup) ACTIVE 10 min. TOTAL 40 min.
CRAWFISH ÉTOUFFÉE
Étouffée is French for “smothered,” so don’t scrimp when pouring this thick Cajun stew over rice.
1 Tbsp. paprika
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. dried thyme
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ cup vegetable oil
1 cup (4 oz.) all-purpose flour
1 poblano chile, seeds removed, diced
3 celery ribs, diced
1 medium-size yellow onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 jalapeño chile, seeds removed (if desired), diced
2 cups seafood stock
2 lb. frozen peeled crawfish tails, thawed and rinsed
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp. hot sauce, plus more for serving
8 cups cooked white long-grain rice
½ cup sliced scallions, white and light green parts only
1. Stir together the first 5 ingredients in a small bowl.
2. Heat oil in a large stockpot over medium-high. Add flour, and stir well to combine. Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring, until roux is the color of caramel sauce, about 20 minutes. Add poblano, celery, and onion. Cook, stirring, until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, jalapeño, and paprika mixture. Cook 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in stock. Return to a simmer over medium-high. Stir in crawfish, parsley, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and 2 teaspoons hot sauce. Cook until warm, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with hot rice, scallions, and hot sauce.
SERVES 8 (serving size: 1 cup étouffée and 1 cup rice) ACTIVE 40 min. TOTAL 55 min.
SIMPLE CRAWFISH STOCK
Don’t toss those heads after the boil. They still pack deep flavor and create a rich seafood stock when simmered with vegetables and herbs.
Bring 2 pounds cooked crawfish heads, 6 cups water, 1 quart chicken broth, ½ cup dry white wine, 6 fresh thyme sprigs, 2 celery ribs diced, 2 bay leaves, and ½ yellow onion cut into 1-inch pieces to a boil in a stockpot over high. Reduce heat to low, and simmer 30 minutes. Strain through a colander lined with a coffee filter. Use immediately, or chill and then freeze up to 1 month.
MAKES about 9 cups ACTIVE 5 min. TOTAL 45 min.
$15 Chicken Dinners
FAST, FRESH, AND BUDGET-FRIENDLY
CAST-IRON CHICKEN PICCATA
4 (5- to 6-oz.) chicken cutlets
½ cup (2 oz.) all-purpose flour
1½ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. black pepper
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
6 Tbsp. (3 oz.) salted butter, divided
2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. brined capers, drained and rinsed
⅓ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Hot cooked pasta
1. Place each chicken cutlet between two sheets of heavy-duty plastic wrap, and flatten to ¼-inch thickness, using a rolling pin or flat side of a meat mallet. Stir together flour, salt, and pepper. Dip each cutlet in egg white, and dredge in flour mixture, shaking off excess.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter with 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add 2 cutlets, and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Transfer to a plate. Wipe skillet clean, and repeat process with 2 tablespoons butter and remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and remaining 2 cutlets. Discard drippings; do not wipe skillet clean.
3. Add broth, lemon juice, and capers to skillet. Bring to a boil over high, stirring and scraping bottom of skillet to loosen browned bits. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Whisk in parsley. Spoon sauce over chicken, and serve immediately with pasta.
SERVES 4 (serving size: 1 chicken cutlet and ¼ cup sauce) ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 30 min.
CRISPY RAMEN-CRUSTED CHICKEN WITH ASIAN SALAD
1 bunch kale (about 8 oz.), stems removed, chopped (about 6 cups)
1 bunch cilantro, chopped (about ⅓ cup)
3 green onions, thinly sliced diagonally
1¼ cups matchstick carrots
3 ½ Tbsp. fresh lime juice (about 2 limes)
2 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. honey
6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 (3-oz.) pkg. chicken-flavored instant Asian ramen noodle soup mix
1 tsp. ground ginger
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
4 (5- to 6-oz.) chicken cutlets
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped
1. Toss together kale, cilantro, green onions, and carrots. Whisk together lime juice, soy sauce, honey, and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small bowl; pour over kale mixture, and toss to coat. Set aside while preparing chicken, tossing occasionally.
2. Break ramen noodles into pieces. Process ramen noodles, seasoning mixtures from ramen packages, ginger, and cayenne pepper in a food processor until combined, 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a shallow dish, and set aside.
3. Place each chicken cutlet between two sheets of heavy-duty plastic wrap, and flatten to ¼-inch thickness, using a rolling pin or flat side of a meat mallet. Dip each cutlet in eggs, and dredge in ramen mixture, pressing to adhere.
4. Cook half of chicken in 2½ tablespoons hot olive oil in a large skillet over medium until golden brown and done, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Place on a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet, and keep warm in a 200°F oven. Repeat procedure with remaining chicken and olive oil.
5. Sprinkle peanuts over kale mixture, and serve with cutlets.
SERVES 4 (serving size: 1 chicken cutlet and 1½ cups salad) ACTIVE 25 min. TOTAL 30 min.
KICKIN’ ORANGE-GLAZED CHICKEN
4 (5- to 6-oz.) chicken cutlets
½ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. black pepper
1 Tbsp. salted butter
1 Tbsp. olive oil
½ cup orange marmalade
4 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. lemon zest, plus 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
Garnish: lemon strips, lemon wedges
1. Preheat broiler. Sprinkle both sides of cutlets with salt and pepper. Melt butter with oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high. Cook cutlets in butter mixture until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Tilt pan; add marmalade and next 3 ingredients to drippings, and stir until combined. Spoon sauce over cutlets.
2. Broil 8 inches from heat until chicken is glazed and cooked through, about 6 minutes, turning cutlets every minute and basting with pan sauce. Spoon sauce over chicken.
Lemon-Sautéed Green Beans
Microwave 1 (12-oz.) package fresh green beans according to package directions for 3 minutes. Sauté beans, 1 teaspoon lemon zest, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, and ¼ teaspoon black pepper in 2 teaspoons hot olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high until beans are hot and cooked crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Squeeze a lemon half over beans, and serve immediately.
SERVES 4 (serving size: 1 chicken cutlet and 3 oz. beans) ACTIVE 15 min. TOTAL 20 min.
SOUTHWEST CHICKEN CUTLET RICE BOWL
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1½ tsp. ground cumin, divided
¾ tsp. ground coriander, divided
½ tsp. black pepper, divided
⅛ tsp. cayenne pepper
4 (5- to 6-oz.) chicken cutlets
2 tsp. olive oil
2 (8.8-oz.) pkg. microwaveable long-grain white rice
3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 medium poblano chile, seeds removed, chopped
1 small jalapeño chile, seeds removed, finely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped red onion
1 cup fresh or frozen, thawed corn kernels
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
1 tsp. lime zest plus 1½ Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1. Stir together 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon cumin, ½ teaspoon coriander, ¼ teaspoon black pepper, and ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper in a small bowl. Rub chicken cutlets with ½ teaspoon olive oil. Rub cutlets evenly with salt mixture. Chill 1 to 24 hours.
2. Cook rice according to package directions. Cook chicken cutlets in 1 tablespoon hot oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high until done and golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes on each side. Transfer to a platter, and cover with aluminum foil.
3. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to skillet. Cook chiles and onions until tender, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle mixture with remaining 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon cumin, ¼ teaspoon coriander, and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Add corn kernels and garlic, and cook 1 minute. Add remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and stir in rice; cook, stirring until thoroughly heated, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in cilantro, lime zest, and lime juice. Serve with cooked chicken.
SERVES 4 (serving size: 1 chicken cutlet and 1 cup rice) ACTIVE 25 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 30 min.
GRILLED CHICKEN AND TOASTED COUSCOUS SALAD WITH LEMON-BUTTERMILK DRESSING
MARINADE
3 Tbsp. olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbsp. lemon zest plus 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
3 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
4 (5- to 6-oz.) chicken cutlets
DRESSING
¾ cup buttermilk
½ cup mayonnaise
3 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 garlic clove, pressed
½ tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
COUSCOUS
1 cup uncooked pearl couscous
2 (3- x 1-inch) lemon peel strips
1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 cups water
¼ tsp. kosher salt
VEGETABLES
l lb. fresh asparagus, trimmed
2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
½ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. black pepper
3 (½-inch-thick) red onion slices
1. Make Marinade: Whisk together olive oil, garlic cloves, lemon zest and juice, chopped thyme, salt, and black pepper in a small bowl. Place chicken cutlets in a 1-gallon zip-top plastic freezer bag, and add marinade. Seal bag, and turn to coat. Chill 30 minutes to 1 hour, turning occasionally. Remove chicken from bag and marinade; discard marinade.
2. Make Dressing: Whisk together buttermilk, mayonnaise, chives, lemon juice, pressed garlic clove, thyme, salt, and black pepper in a small bowl; cover and chill.
3. Make Couscous: Cook couscous and lemon peel strips in heated olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium, stirring often, until mostly golden, 7 to 8 minutes. Add water and salt; bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until barely tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and discard lemon peel strips.
4. Make Chicken and Vegetables: Coat cold cooking grate of grill with cooking spray, and place on grill. Preheat grill to medium (350° to 400°F). Toss asparagus with 1 tablespoon olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and black pepper. Brush both sides of onion slices with remaining olive oil. Grill chicken, asparagus, and onions until chicken is done and vegetables are tender and charred, about 3 minutes on each side.
5. Slice chicken; cut asparagus into 2-inch pieces, and roughly chop onions. Toss together couscous, chicken, asparagus, onions, and ½ cup dressing. Serve salad with remaining dressing.
SERVES 4 (serving size: 1 chicken cutlet and about 1 cup salad) ACTIVE 25 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 20 min.
MEET YOUR NEW FAVORITE APPETIZER...
Spinach-and-Vidalia Dip
Sweet Vidalia onions add an unexpected twist to the creamy, crowd-pleasing spinach dip.
3 Tbsp. (1½ oz.) salted butter
4 cups chopped Vidalia or other sweet onions (about 2 large)
1 (5-oz.) pkg. fresh baby spinach, coarsely chopped
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
½ tsp. black pepper, divided
1 (16-oz.) container sour cream
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives
Potato chips and medley of veggies like cucumbers, radishes, and bell peppers
1. Melt butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium; add onions, and cook, stirring often, until golden and very tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Gradually add spinach, stirring just until wilted, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Remove from heat, and let stand 30 minutes.
2. Stir together onion-and-spinach mixture, sour cream, and chives in a medium bowl. Stir in the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cover and chill 30 minutes or up to 2 days. Serve with chips and veggies.
SERVES 12 (serving size: ¼ cup) ACTIVE 25 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 25 min.
Spice Up Your Night
LAYER BEANS, SAUSAGE, POTATOES, AND SEASONAL VEGGIES INTO ONE POT FOR A FIX-AND-FORGET SOUP
WHITE BEAN AND CHORIZO SOUP
Fresh chorizo sausage gives this soup its vibrant red-orange hue and fiery flavor.
1 lb. fresh chorizo link sausage, casing removed
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped (about 2 cups)
2 medium carrots, chopped (about 1 cup)
½ lb. small red potatoes, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 (15-oz.) cans great Northern beans, drained and rinsed
1 (32-oz.) container reduced-sodium chicken broth
½ cup fresh parsley leaves, chopped
1. Cook chorizo in a Dutch oven over medium-high, stirring constantly, until browned and crumbled, about 8 minutes. Drain well on paper towels. Wipe Dutch oven clean.
2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high. Add onions and next 5 ingredients, and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, and cook 1 minute, stirring often.
3. Increase heat to high. Add beans, chicken broth, and chorizo, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring occasionally and skimming off any fat from top, 20 minutes. Stir in parsley, and serve immediately.
SERVES 6 (serving size: about 1⅓ cups) ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 40 min.
TEST KITCHEN TIP
Choose Mexican chorizo, which cooks like ground beef when casings are removed.
THE SL TEST KITCHEN ACADEMY: 3 DELICIOUS KINDS OF CARAMELIZED ONIONS
BLONDE ONIONS
15-20 minutes
BEST FOR: Soups, dips, pasta sauce, frittatas
GOLDEN ONIONS
30-40 minutes
BEST FOR: Pizzas, salads, bruschetta
DEEP BROWN ONIONS
45-60 minutes
BEST FOR: Burgers, tacos, sandwiches
SOUTHERNERS HAVE A SAYING about things that take a while: slower than molasses running uphill in the winter. While caramelizing onions doesn’t take that long, it does take time. To achieve the rich, browned, candy-sweet slices meant for stacking on burgers, topping on salads, and piling on baguettes, you’ll need about an hour. And we think it’s worth every minute. There are three kinds of caramelized onions—blonde, golden, deep brown—each with its own purpose and cooking time. Start by following our go-to technique below.
INGREDIENTS: 2 or 3 yellow onions (sliced ⅛ inch thick), canola oil (2 Tbsp. for every sliced onion)
MASTER TECHNIQUE: Place oil and onions in a large, wide pot or skillet so the moisture in the onions evaporates, instead of steams. Cook over medium-low, stirring occasionally. Resist the urge to bump up the heat, which will scorch slices. Add a splash of water every 15 minutes to keep onions from burning and to help deglaze the brown bits.
TIP: You can use butter, but a neutral oil, like canola, is better for browning 20 minutes or more. It can go the distance without burning or breaking down.
HOW TO MAKE A CUTLET FROM A CHICKEN THIGH
Easy to prepare, quick to defrost, fast-cooking, and versatile (see recipes starting on page 102), the chicken cutlet is a busy cook’s best friend. But grocery store cutlets cost more than value packs of bone-in thighs. Follow these simple steps for making your own cutlets.
Remove skin: If your chicken thigh has skin on, pull it off. (Save that skin for frying up later as an appetizer.) Make sure to trim off any excess fat.
Find the bone: Flip the thigh rough-side up, and locate the bone. Use the tip of your knife to score a deep line along the bone. Grasp one end of the bone with your free hand, and make short, scraping cuts to remove all meat from the bone.
Flatten it out: Place the meat between two sheets of plastic wrap, and using a meat mallet or rolling pin, flatten each piece to about ½ inch in thickness.
Give It a Twirl
LIGHTEN UP THIS CREAMY FETTUCCINE WITH FRESH, SEASONAL ASPARAGUS
FETTUCCINE ALFREDO WITH ASPARAGUS
8 oz. uncooked fettuccine
1 tsp. olive oil
1 lb. fresh asparagus spears, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
¾ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. lemon zest
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. vodka or water
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 oz. ⅓-less-fat cream cheese
¼ cup fat-free milk
6 Tbsp. (1½ oz.) grated Parmesan cheese
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives
1. Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain in a colander over a large bowl. Reserve ¼ cup cooking water.
2. Heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add oil; swirl to coat. Add asparagus, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper; sauté until crisp-tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat. Add lemon zest and juice; toss. Keep warm.
3. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium. Add vodka and garlic; cook 1 minute. Add cream cheese, stirring until smooth. Stir in milk, Parmesan cheese, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Stir in reserved cooking water, pasta, and asparagus; toss. Sprinkle with chives.
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION (per serving)
CALORIES 365; FAT 11.2G (SATURATED FAT 5.9G); PROTEIN 16G; FIBER 4G; CARBOHYDRATES 50G; SODIUM 609MG
Chocolate Matzo Madness
TAKE A CRACK AT THIS SOUTHERN SPIN ON A TRADITIONAL PASSOVER TREAT
SALTED CHOCOLATE MATZO TOFFEE
1 cup (8 oz.) salted butter, plus butter to grease pan
4 to 5 sheets lightly salted matzos
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 (12-oz.) package semisweet chocolate chips
1 cup chopped toasted pecans
¼ tsp. Maldon sea salt, if desired
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line an 18- x 12-inch rimmed baking sheet with heavy-duty aluminum foil. Grease foil with butter. Arrange matzos in prepared pan, breaking as necessary to fit and completely cover bottom.
2. Bring 1 cup butter and brown sugar to a boil in a heavy saucepan over medium, whisking occasionally. Boil, whisking constantly, 3 minutes. Carefully pour mixture over matzos; spread over matzos.
3. Bake in preheated oven until bubbly all over, 8 to 10 minutes. Carefully remove baking sheet from oven to a wire rack. Let stand 1 minute. Sprinkle chocolate chips over top; let stand until chips soften, about 2 minutes. Spread chocolate over brown sugar mixture. Sprinkle with pecans; sprinkle with salt, if desired. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes. Chill toffee until firm, about 30 minutes. Break or cut into about 36 pieces. Store in an airtight container up to 1 week in refrigerator.
Note: We tested with Lightly Salted Streit’s Matzos.
SERVES 18 (serving size: 2 pieces) ACTIVE 15 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 25 min.
Community Cookbook
BUILD A BETTER LIBRARY, ONE GREAT BOOK AT A TIME
This month, vegetarians and meat-lovers alike will dig into the more than 100 fresh, seasonal recipes in the first cookbook by Love & Lemons, the popular lifestyle blog by husband-and-wife duo Jack Mathews and Jeanine Donofrio. This Austin-based couple has created a delicious lineup of surprising, plant-based dishes, which includes everything from avocado breakfast tacos to double chocolate zucchini muffins.
SPRING POLENTA WITH RADISHES AND GARLIC SCAPES
3 cups water
1 cup polenta
1 garlic clove, minced
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted butter
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 Tbsp. grated pecorino cheese (optional)
1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
12 radishes, sliced in half
1 cup cooked chickpeas, drained and rinsed
3 garlic scapes, sliced into 1-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
2 cups Broccolini
Radish sprouts
Sea salt
1. Make the polenta: In a medium saucepan, bring the 3 cups water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add a few generous pinches of salt. Gradually whisk in the polenta and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat and continue cooking until the polenta is tender, 20 to 30 minutes, whisking often. Turn off the heat and whisk in the garlic, 2 tablespoons olive oil or butter, pinches of salt and pepper, and cheese, if using. Taste and adjust seasonings. Cover to keep warm.
2. In a large skillet, heat 1 teaspoon olive oil over medium heat. Add the radishes, chickpeas, and a pinch of salt, and sauté for 5 minutes. Stir; then add the garlic scapes and Broccolini and cook until the vegetables are tender but still have a vibrant bite, about 5 more minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the polenta into bowls; season with sea salt. Top with the vegetables and radish sprouts.
SERVES 4
MISO-BRAISED MUSTARD GREENS
1 tsp. white miso paste
¼ cup warm water
Several bunches of Asian mustard greens or baby bok choy, about 20 leaves
1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
½ tsp. rice wine vinegar
½ tsp. maple syrup or honey
Toasted sesame oil, for drizzling
Sesame seeds, for sprinkling
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the miso paste and water.
2. Trim off the rough bottoms of the mustard greens, separate the leaves, and rinse under running water. Pat dry.
3. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the mustard greens and cook about 2 minutes, turning occasionally. Add half the miso water, cover, and let cook until the stems start to soften, about 2 more minutes. If the skillet is getting dry, add more miso water.
4. Add the rice wine vinegar and maple syrup, and toss. Transfer to a serving plate, drizzle with sesame oil, and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
SERVES 4 as a side
To purchase The Love & Lemons Cookbook, visit your local bookstore or amazon.com.