May
ENTERTAINING WITH JULIA Dinner on the Half Shell A seafood feast from the pages of Julia Reed’s book Julia Reed’s South
Home for Mother’s Day Birmingham chef John Hall celebrates his mom with a brunch feast
Sweet Sensations Ripe for enjoyment, a parade of sweet and savory strawberry recipes
IN SEASON Your Spring Vegetable Cookbook Rebecca Lang’s recipes showcase the bounty of the Southern garden in every season in The Southern Vegetable Book
ONE AND DONE Mediterranean Medley A sheet pan supper packed with flavor
cooking light Dressed-Up Chicken Salad Greek yogurt and dried cherries lend a tasty tartness to a Southern favorite
THE SL TEST KITCHEN ACADEMY Veggie Lessons Our produce primer shows you how to buy and prepare what’s in season now
WHAT CAN I BRING? Party Poppers We’ve swapped a creamy chicken filling for the usual shrimp in this two-bite appetizer
SAVE ROOM Banana Pudding with a Twist A classic meat-and-three dessert offering gets a tropical twist
Dinner on the Half shell
THIS MONTH, OUR SPIRITED ENTERTAINING COLUMNIST SHARES EXCLUSIVELY WITH US A FAVORITE CHAPTER FROM HER COOKBOOK JULIA REED’S SOUTH
I SWEAR I THINK I owe the evolution of this menu to my friend Christopher Gow and his vast offerings of silvered seashells at least as much as I do to the actual shellfish. I began collecting Christopher’s magical wares in the early 1990s, when his business was called Ruzzetti and Gow and operated out of a third-floor walk-up in Manhattan’s dingy West 30s. These days his partner is Jamie Creel, and their shop (now Creel and Gow) on East 70th Street is a dazzling cabinet of curiosities, but those shells are still as popular as ever. My own collection includes starfish and sea urchin candleholders, ingenious cockleshell place-card holders, burgus shell salts, and lots more specimens to sprinkle about the table.
Such gorgeous props demand a menu like this one, and to complete the look, I encrusted vases (with the help of a glue gun) with natural shells, inspired by an ancient Ralph Lauren lamp that was a gift from my generous friend Bobby Harling. This particular dinner took place in my mother’s lovely dining room, and, as luck would have it, her silver pattern is Fiddle, Thread, and Shell. For the hors d’oeuvres course, we let guests help themselves to both fried and baked oysters from our combined collections of oyster plates on the sideboard. The theme continued on the outside bar, where a giant clamshell served as a wine cooler and an enormous shell-encrusted bowl (another gift from Bobby) served as a receptacle for the cocktail’s citrus.
My favorite wine with oysters is always a Muscadet. We served a Chablis with the soup course. The vivid acidity of the Grüner Veltliner from Austria’s Weingut Knoll (one of the most versatile wines ever) made it the perfect match for the shrimp, which contains a healthy dose of curry.
A SEAFOOD SUPPER
THE RECIPES
GREEN GODDESS SOUP WITH JUMBO LUMP CRABMEAT
I made the vases myself with terra-cotta pots, seashells, and a glue gun.
At her popular Los Angeles dinner parties, my good friend Suzanne Rheinstein, an interior designer and New Orleans native, often serves a first course consisting of a generous scoop of jumbo lump blue crab napped with green goddess dressing. The pale green-and-white color combo is gorgeous, and the Californians, used to flaky Dungeness crab, always swoon. The first time I tasted the combo, I was struck not by the crab (which I’m blessedly used to) but by how perfect the tart, herby dressing was with the lush crabmeat. I now serve what I think of as “Suzanne’s Green Goddess Crabmeat” a lot, but for this dinner, which features an embarrassment of shellfish riches, an entire serving of crab would be too much. Instead, I inverted the dish by making a soup out of green goddess ingredients and using a few lumps of crab as garnish only. Even without the crab, the soup (inspired by a recipe from another pal, Nora Etheridge) is pretty great.
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped
1 ripe medium avocado, peeled, pitted, and quartered
6 scallions, including about 1 inch of the green stem, roughly chopped (about 1 cup)
¼ cup Italian parsley leaves, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon tarragon leaves, plus 1 tablespoon minced for garnish
1 tablespoon chives, roughly chopped, plus 1 tablespoon minced for garnish
1 cup unsalted chicken stock
1 cup sour cream
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat
1. Place the cucumber, avocado, scallions, parsley, tarragon leaves, and chopped chives into a food processor. Process for about 10 seconds. Add the chicken stock, sour cream, lemon juice, salt, and cayenne. Process for another 10 seconds, until the mixture is smooth and well blended.
2. Pour the soup into a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and chill for at least 2 hours. When ready to serve, ladle into soup bowls or plates, garnish with a couple of lumps of the crabmeat, and sprinkle with the minced tarragon and minced chives.
NOTE: I like to serve this soup accompanied by thin slices of baguette brushed with melted butter, toasted, and sprinkled with sea salt. Make enough to offer with the Shrimp Malacca.
SERVES 8 as a first course
SHRIMP MALACCA WITH RICE
I found this recipe by Maurice Moore-Betty in a late-1970s issue of House & Garden while I was still in college, and I’ve been making it ever since. Moore-Betty was an Irish-born author, cooking teacher, and all-around lovely man who advised many a prominent Manhattan hostess. This dish is essentially shrimp Creole with the addition of curry powder, which elevates it by a surprising degree. Serve over rice, accompanied by a simple green salad.
⅓ cup vegetable or canola oil
2 medium yellow onions, finely diced
1 large green bell pepper, seeded, stemmed, and finely diced
2 celery ribs, peeled and diced (about ½ cup)
1 16-ounce can whole peeled Italian plum tomatoes
1 cup tomato puree
Generous pinch of cayenne pepper
Generous pinch of dried basil
2 garlic cloves, mashed with 1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 bay leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons curry powder
Boxed or canned seafood stock. (If available, use homemade shrimp stock.)
3 pounds (36 to 40 count) shrimp, peeled
Cooked white rice for serving
1. Heat the vegetable oil over medium in a large heavy saucepan. Add the onions, bell pepper, and celery, and cook until soft, stirring occasionally.
2. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, cayenne, basil, garlic, bay leaves, and salt and black pepper to taste. Bring to a boil over high, and add the curry powder. Turn down the heat, and simmer the mixture, covered, for about 25 minutes. If the sauce seems too thick, thin it with a little seafood stock or water. Add the shrimp, and simmer for about 10 minutes, until just cooked through. Remove the bay leaves.
3. Serve over cooked white rice. (I love Uncle Ben’s Original Converted rice.)
*Recipe adapted from Julia Reed’s South
SERVES 8
JUSTINE’S PINEAPPLE-MINT ICE CREAM
Justine’s, the Memphis restaurant housed in an ivy-covered 19th-century mansion on the banks of the Mississippi River, was the first “fine dining” restaurant in which I ever ate. Long before anyone had ever heard the phrase “farm to table,” the garden at Justine’s provided both fresh produce and old roses, and the food was so good we made the two-and-a-half-hour trek north from Greenville, Mississippi, with astonishing frequency. Famous for its buttery Crabmeat Justine, the restaurant always featured at least one or two homemade ice creams for dessert, often served in scoops piled high in silver bowls on the antique sideboards.
1¼ cups sugar
1¼ cups water
2 cups lightly packed mint leaves
½ cup light corn syrup
2 cups canned crushed pineapple in its own juice
1½ cups canned pineapple juice
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
¼ cup white crème de menthe
1 cup fresh lemon juice
Shortbread cookies for garnish
1. Combine the sugar and water in a medium saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium-high, cooking until the sugar has dissolved. Boil without stirring for about 10 minutes, until it reaches the soft-ball stage (234° to 240°F on a candy thermometer), when a drop forms a soft ball in a cup of cold water. Stir in the mint, and simmer over medium for 10 minutes more. Remove from the heat, and let cool.
2. Pour the mint syrup into a blender, and puree. Strain into a large bowl. Stir in the corn syrup.
3. Rinse the blender, add the pineapple and pineapple juice, and puree. Add the pineapple puree to the mint syrup mixture along with the milk, cream, crème de menthe, and lemon juice.
4. Chill for at least 4 hours or overnight. (In a pinch, I put it in the freezer for an hour.) Transfer the chilled mixture to an ice-cream maker, and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions.
5. Scrape the ice cream into a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and place in the freezer until ready to serve. When ready to serve, scoop into dessert bowls or cups, and garnish with shortbread cookies.
MAKES about 3 quarts SERVES 10 to 12
Get your copy at amazon.com or follow @juliaevansreed on Instagram to find out when she will be in your area for a book signing.
Home for Mother’s Day
Birmingham chef John Hall owes his culinary success to the women in his family. This holiday, he celebrates with a special homemade brunch.
Hall’s mother, Marion, nurtured his passion for food from an early age.
JOHN HALL’S MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH MENU
1 Braised Lamb and Potato Hash
2 Pan-Seared Shrimp with Chive Grits and Salsa Verde
3 Cured Salmon with Dill-Horseradish Cream
4 Kale Salad with Buttermilk Dressing and Pickled Onions
5 Ricotta Pancakes with Brown Butter-Maple Syrup and Blueberry Compote
John Hall’s
His grandmother Louellen Wilkins (pictured above) taught Hall how to cook with the seasons.
Birmingham pizzeria, Post Office Pies, is a favorite name to drop when describing the city’s cultural renaissance. Mentioned in national travel magazines and “best-of” lists for its wood-fired pies, house-made meatballs, and seasonal salads, many credit its success to John’s prior experience cooking in the lauded New York kitchens of Gramercy Tavern, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, and Per Se.
But Hall will tell you the real credit goes to his mother and grandmother. These matriarchs not only nurtured his early excitement and curiosity for food but also taught him the skills he needed to succeed in those major-league line-cooking gigs, which eventually led him to opening his own kitchen doors at just 32 years old.
Hall grew up down the street from where his restaurant sits in Birmingham’s Avondale neighborhood, then known more as a working-class community than the trendy, restaurant-rich area it is today.
As a kid, he was enthralled with the vegetables and herbs his grandmother Louellen Wilkins tended in her small garden and how they manifested on the family’s table. Peppers, tomatoes, okra, collard greens, rosemary—anything she could grow herself, she did. “This was way before all the farm-to-table hoopla,” says Hall. “She cooked with the seasons, and she pickled and canned damn near everything. She really embodied that special Southern spirit.” Cooking together, Wilkins taught her grandson the fundamentals: how to work clean in the kitchen; how to learn from his mistakes; and how to enjoy the process even when it gets frustrating.
As he was growing up, his mother, Marion, a single mom with a full-time job and a shoestring budget, made sure there was always a home-cooked weeknight meal on the table for Hall and his two brothers. But he always looked forward to the weekends when he would help flip pancakes on Saturdays and set out soul food spreads on Sundays. “Our family meals were geared around comfort in good times and bad,” he says. “That was the thing that made me interested in cooking: Food brought people together and made them happy.”
Marion recognized the joy that putting dinner on the table brought Hall and recalled the day she asked her son if he wanted to be a cook. He replied, “No, Mom. A chef.”
After high school, Hall went on to culinary training in Charleston and Rhode Island and cooked abroad in Luxembourg. He built up his résumé in Birmingham with chef Frank Stitt, then moved on to New York. Between working rigorous shifts, he ran a side business called Insomnia Pizza out of his tiny Brooklyn apartment, making and delivering late-night pies on his bike.
Then, in 2013, the opportunity arose for Hall to start a restaurant of his own, one not just in Birmingham but in his old neighborhood. This meant being closer to his family—especially his grandmother. He could have opened a hipper spot with a tasting menu and the requisite white subway tile, but instead he made the decision to plant a local pizza joint inspired by the ones he saw in Brooklyn. “It doesn’t matter who you are or where you come from,” Hall says. “Everyone loves pizza.”
He moved into the house next door to Louellen and began remodeling the old vacant post office down the street, which inspired the restaurant’s name. When he wasn’t overseeing construction of the kitchen, he mowed his grandmother’s lawn.
As soon as Post Office Pies opened in 2014, customers crowded in front of the restaurant’s colorful, 10-foot-high chalkboard menu, with lines spilling beyond the front doors.
Sadly, Louellen passed away just a month before the restaurant opened. Knowing that her heartfelt approach meant cooking done right, Hall still prepares everything the way she and his mother taught him, from the scratch-made tomato sauce to the market salads with locally grown greens.
And the lessons Marion and Louellen passed down to him are apparent in more than just the tomato sauce. Hall’s restaurant has become a community center where everyone is welcome to take a seat. It’s a place where watching the game with a beer doesn’t clash with the artfully arranged beet salad or basil-topped Margherita pizza; most of all, it’s a hometown gem brimming with homegrown love. “I use what they taught me as guideposts,” he says. “To open a place where I grew up means everything to me.”
CURED SALMON WITH DILL-HORSERADISH CREAM
“People don’t think salmon is a Southern thing, but my mom made salmon croquettes every Sunday before church.”
KALE SALAD WITH BUTTERMILK DRESSING
“My grandmother always had a bottle of buttermilk in the fridge, and I love how it adds acidity and creaminess to this dressing.”
BRAISED LAMB AND POTATO HASH
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 lamb shanks (about 14 oz. each), trimmed
1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. kosher salt
1¼ tsp. black pepper, divided
1 yellow onion, quartered
1 large carrot, cut into 2-inch pieces
4 garlic cloves, smashed
1 cup dry red wine
1 (14.5-oz.) can crushed tomatoes
1½ cups chicken broth
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Potato Hash (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Heat oil in a large roasting pan over medium-high. Season lamb with 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Brown lamb in hot oil, 5 to 7 minutes on each side. Remove from pan. Add onion, carrot, and garlic cloves. Cook until slightly softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add wine; cook 2 minutes, stirring and scraping bottom of pan. Stir in tomatoes and broth; cook 2 minutes. Return lamb to pan; bring to a boil. Place parchment paper directly on lamb; cover pan tightly with aluminum foil.
2. Bake at 300°F for 3 ½ hours. Remove foil, and bake until meat falls off the bone or when a meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion registers 200°F, about 30 more minutes, turning halfway through.
3. Transfer lamb to a platter; cover with foil. Strain cooking liquid into a medium saucepan; discard solids. Add remaining ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper, and cook over medium-high until reduced to about 3 cups, 5 to 7 minutes. Spoon 1 cup sauce over lamb, and serve with remaining sauce. Top with parsley, and serve with Potato Hash.
SERVES 4 ACTIVE 30 min. TOTAL 4 hours, 45 min.
BRAISED LAMB WITH POTATO HASH
“I love braises for brunch. They’re so easy. You can make one ahead of time and warm it up right beforehand. The potato hash reminds me of the classic hash browns Mom used to make for breakfast.”
Potato Hash
1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
2 Tbsp. water
1 tsp. lemon zest plus 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice (1 lemon)
2½ tsp. kosher salt, divided
¾ tsp. black pepper, divided
1½ lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into ½-inch dice
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, cut into ½-inch dice
1 Tbsp. roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1. Whisk together first 3 ingredients, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Set in fridge to chill.
2. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place potatoes on baking sheet; add 1 tablespoon oil and ¾ teaspoon salt, and toss to coat.
3. Bake in preheated oven, about 30 minutes, stirring once halfway through.
4. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium. Add 1 tablespoon oil; swirl to coat. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes. Add bell pepper, and cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Remove onion and bell pepper.
5. Increase heat to medium-high. Add remaining 3 tablespoons oil to skillet. Add potatoes; cook until golden brown, 4 minutes. Stir and cook 2 more minutes. Add bell pepper mixture, remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper, and cook 1 minute. Remove from heat; stir in chopped parsley. Serve with crème fraîche mixture.
SERVES 4 ACTIVE 30 min. TOTAL 1 hour
KALE SALAD WITH BUTTERMILK DRESSING AND PICKLED ONIONS
1 cup water
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar, divided
2¼ tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 small red beet, sliced into 4 rounds
½ cup buttermilk
⅓ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 Tbsp. chopped chives
1 small garlic clove, minced
¼ tsp. black pepper
1 bunch (about 12 oz.) curly kale, stems removed, torn into bite-size pieces
3 hard-cooked eggs, each cut into 8 pieces
Whole parsley leaves, chopped chives, Buttery French Bread Croutons (recipe follows)
1. Bring water, sugar, ½ cup vinegar, and 1½ teaspoons salt to a boil in a small saucepan over high. Boil, whisking until sugar and salt dissolve, about 1 minute. Remove from heat.
2. Place onions and beets in a glass bowl; add vinegar mixture. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour. Drain and serve, or chill up to 2 weeks.
3. Whisk together buttermilk, mayonnaise, and olive oil in a bowl until smooth. Whisk in parsley, chives, garlic, and remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar. Stir in pepper and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt.
4. Toss together kale, onion mixture, and ½ cup dressing. Top with eggs, parsley, chives, and croutons. Serve with remaining dressing.
SERVES 6 ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 10 min.
Buttery French Bread Croutons
Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine 5 cups 1-inch cubed French bread (about 5 ounces), 3 tablespoons melted salted butter, and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Bake in preheated oven until golden, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely.
MAKES About 5 cups ACTIVE 5 min. TOTAL 30 min.
CURED SALMON WITH DILL-HORSERADISH CREAM
2 cups kosher salt
1 cup granulated sugar
1 Tbsp. lemon zest
1 Tbsp. lime zest
1 Tbsp. orange zest
1 (2-lb.) skin-on salmon fillet (about 1 inch thick)
Dill-Horseradish Cream (recipe follows)
Sourdough bread slices, toasted
1. Stir together first 5 ingredients in a medium bowl. Rub half of mixture (about 1½ cups) on both sides of salmon. Place in a 13- x 9-inch baking dish, skin side down, and cover flesh of salmon with remaining salt mixture. Cover with plastic wrap, and chill 36 hours.
2. Rinse salmon under cold water. Pat dry, and remove and discard skin. Thinly slice salmon, and serve with Dill-Horseradish Cream and toasted sourdough bread slices.
SERVES 6 ACTIVE 15 min. TOTAL 36 hours, 15 min.
Dill-Horseradish Cream
1 cup sour cream
2 Tbsp. fresh dill, finely chopped
1 tsp. lemon zest plus 1½ Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
1½ Tbsp. prepared horseradish
2 tsp. granulated sugar
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
Whisk together all ingredients in a bowl. Serve immediately, or refrigerate up to 48 hours.
MAKES 1¼ cups ACTIVE 5 min. TOTAL 5 min.
PAN-SEARED SHRIMP WITH CHIVE GRITS AND SALSA VERDE
3 cups water
1 cup whole milk
3 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 cup yellow stone-ground grits
6 Tbsp. salted butter, divided
2 lb. jumbo raw shrimp, peeled and deveined, divided
½ tsp. black pepper, divided
1 Tbsp. lemon juice, divided
2 Tbsp. chopped chives
1 pt. cherry tomatoes, halved
Salsa Verde (recipe follows)
1. Bring 3 cups water, milk, and 2 teaspoons salt to a boil in a large heavy saucepan over high. Whisk in grits, and cook, whisking constantly, 45 seconds, scraping bottom and sides as needed. Return to a boil; cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook grits until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. (For a looser texture, whisk in 2 to 4 tablespoons water halfway through cooking.)
2. Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high. Add half of the shrimp, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Sauté until shrimp are almost pink, 5 to 6 minutes. Toss with ½ tablespoon lemon juice, and transfer to a plate. Repeat with 2 tablespoons butter and remaining shrimp, salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
3. Add chives and remaining 2 tablespoons butter to grits. Top with shrimp, tomatoes, and Salsa Verde.
SERVES 6 ACTIVE 25 min. TOTAL 40 min.
PAN-SEARED SHRIMP WITH CHIVE GRITS AND SALSA VERDE
“My mom made shrimp and grits way before it became such an overwhelmingly popular dish. Here, it’s made her way but I added a bright, herbaceous salsa verde, which I learned from my days at Gramercy Tavern.”
Salsa Verde
1 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and small stems
1 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro leaves and small stems
1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil leaves
¾ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. red chile flakes
2 garlic cloves
1 Tbsp. lemon zest plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided
½ cup olive oil
Pulse first 6 ingredients plus 1 tablespoon lemon zest in a food processor until roughly chopped. With processor running, pour olive oil through food chute, until smooth. Transfer to a bowl; let stand 20 minutes. Before serving, stir in lemon juice.
MAKES 1 cup ACTIVE 10 min. TOTAL 30 min.
RICOTTA PANCAKES WITH BROWN BUTTER-MAPLE SYRUP AND BLUEBERRY COMPOTE
1½ cups (6 oz.) all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. table salt
1½ cups buttermilk
2 large eggs, separated
1 Tbsp. lemon zest
⅓ cup whole milk ricotta cheese
Butter for greasing griddle
4 oz. (½ cup) salted butter, diced
¼ cup maple syrup
Blueberry Compote (recipe follows)
1. Prepare Pancakes: Stir together first 4 ingredients in a large bowl. Whisk buttermilk, egg yolks, and zest in a medium bowl. Stir buttermilk mixture into flour mixture. Gently stir in ricotta cheese.
2. Beat egg whites at high speed with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Gently fold egg whites into batter.
3. Heat a nonstick griddle or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium. When hot (350°F), coat lightly with butter. Drop batter by ½ cupfuls onto griddle, and cook until pancakes are browned on the bottom and edges begin to look dry, about 4 minutes. Turn with a wide spatula, and cook until set in the middle, about 4 more minutes. Wipe griddle clean; coat with more butter, and repeat with remaining batter. Keep warm in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 200°F oven for up to 15 minutes.
4. Prepare Brown Butter-Maple Syrup: Heat ½ cup butter in a small saucepan over medium, stirring often, about 10 minutes. (The butter will foam; when the foam subsides, little brown flakes will appear.) Remove from heat, and whisk in maple syrup. Serve with pancakes and Blueberry Compote.
SERVES 4 ACTIVE 25 min. TOTAL 40 min.
RICOTTA PANCAKES WITH BROWN BUTTER-MAPLE SYRUP AND BLUEBERRY COMPOTE
“Pancakes were a Saturday staple for us growing up. I elevated these a bit by using ricotta for a fluffier, richer pancake. I also infused the syrup with nutty brown butter.”
Blueberry Compote
3 cups fresh blueberries (about 14 oz.)
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
1 Tbsp. water
Combine ingredients in a small saucepan; bring to a boil over medium-high. Boil, stirring often, until blueberries soften, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve warm.
MAKES 1¾ cups ACTIVE 10 min. - TOTAL 20 min.
Sweet Sensations
SLICED, DICED, OR STRAIGHT FROM THE PATCH, OUR FAVORITE SPRINGTIME FRUIT IS RIPE FOR THE PICKING
JUICY, PLUMP STRAWBERRIES are what Mother Nature serves at spring’s coming out party. When allowed to ripen fully in the field under the sparkling sun, strawberries reward our patience for waiting on their arrival. They lure us with their perfume and collapse into sweet pulp in our mouths. It’s tempting to buy a box of the enormous berries that flood the produce aisle during winter, but the out-of-season picks make promises they can’t keep. They might be brightly colored, but they are often as hard and tasteless as pebbles. Strawberries harvested before they ripen might turn a bit more red after they are picked, but they will never get any sweeter. The key to the fruit’s deliciousness is time in the warm fields to ripen from cap to tip and develop its unmistakable scent. Aroma, not color, is a sure sign of good flavor, so follow your nose to find tasty berries.
Beyond buying them by the flat at farmers’ markets and roadside stands, strawberries are easy pickings for most Southerners at a local pick-your-own berry patch. With a gentle tug, the berries slip right off the plants and into a waiting pail—or into your mouth. It’s been suggested that when a preschool class invades a patch for their very first picking, the farmer would be wise to weigh the children before and after, instead of their buckets. Who can blame the eager eaters? No recipe, not even shortcake, can beat a candy-sweet berry still warm from the sun. Anyone who emerges from a patch without a strawberry-stained smile has missed out.
It’s easy to grow strawberries at home in the South, from an entire garden to a little patio pot. When planted in a sunny, fertile spot, these perennials produce more plants and berries each year without your having to do a thing besides wait and watch.
We call strawberries “berries,” of course, but actually they aren’t berries, because they wear their seeds on the outside. Strawberries are the only fruit to do so, and each one sports around 200 tiny golden seeds, like a bedazzled party dress. To put an even finer point on this curious characteristic, each strawberry seed is technically a separate fruit, botanically speaking.
Peak season for strawberries is fleeting, only three or four weeks in most cases, so feast while you can. Eat the delectable berries. Preserve any overripe berries. Pickle any underripe berries. Then eat more delicious ones, as many as you can hold. It’ll be awhile before the chance comes around again.
MINI STRAWBERRY TARTS
1 cup (4.5 oz.) all-purpose flour
⅓ cup powdered sugar
¼ cup chopped pistachios
6 Tbsp. (3 oz.) salted butter, cubed
1 (8-oz.) package cream cheese, softened
2 tsp. lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh juice (1 lemon)
½ cup granulated sugar
1 cup heavy whipping cream, whipped
2 cups sliced fresh strawberries
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease 8 (3½ -inch) round, 1-inch-deep mini fluted tart pans with removable rims, and place on a large rimmed baking sheet. Process the flour, powdered sugar, and pistachios in a food processor until nuts are finely ground, about 1 minute. Add the cubed butter to processor, and pulse 6 to 8 times or until mixture resembles coarse meal. Press about 4 ½ tablespoons of the flour mixture on bottom and up sides of each tart pan.
2. Bake at 350°F until lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove tart pans to a wire rack, and cool completely (about 30 minutes).
3. Beat the cream cheese with an electric mixer at medium speed until smooth. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, and ½ cup granulated sugar, and beat until well blended. Gently fold the whipped cream into cream cheese mixture until incorporated. Spoon about 5 tablespoons of the cream cheese mixture into each tart shell. Cover tarts with plastic wrap, and chill 4 to 24 hours.
4. Toss together the sliced strawberries and 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, and spoon on tarts just before serving.
SERVES 8 ACTIVE 30 min. TOTAL 5 hours, 15 min., including 4 hours, 30 min. chilling
STRAWBERRY DREAM CAKE
CAKE LAYERS
Shortening
Flour for pans
1 cup (8 oz.) salted butter, softened
2 cups granulated sugar
4 large eggs, separated
3 cups (about 12 oz.) all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. table salt
1 cup whole milk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. almond extract
2 (16-oz.) containers fresh strawberries
DREAMY WHIPPED FROSTING
1 (8-oz.) container mascarpone cheese, softened
⅔ cup granulated sugar, divided
2 cups heavy whipping cream
½ tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. almond extract
1. Make the Cake Layers: Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease, with shortening, and flour 2 (9-inch) round, 2-inch-deep cake pans. Beat the butter with a heavy-duty stand mixer at medium speed until fluffy; gradually add the sugar, beating well. Add the egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating just until blended after each addition.
2. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt; add to butter mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Beat at low speed just until blended after each addition. Stir in the vanilla and almond extracts.
3. Beat the egg whites at high speed with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Fold about one-third of the egg whites into batter; fold in remaining egg whites in 2 batches. Spoon batter into prepared cake pans.
4. Bake at 350°F until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 28 to 32 minutes. Cool in pans on a wire rack 10 minutes; remove from pans, and cool completely on wire rack, about 1 hour.
5. Meanwhile, cut a thin slice from stem end of each of 20 to 25 whole strawberries to form a flat base; set strawberries aside.
6. Make the Dreamy Whipped Frosting: Gently stir together the mascarpone cheese and ⅓ cup sugar in a medium bowl. Beat whipping cream and vanilla and almond extracts with an electric mixer at medium speed until foamy; increase speed to medium-high, and slowly add remaining ¼ cup sugar, beating until stiff peaks form. Fold one-third of the whipped cream mixture into cheese mixture; gently fold in remaining whipped cream mixture in 2 batches.
7. Place 1 cooled cake layer on a cake plate or serving platter; spread top with ¾ cup of the frosting. Working from the outer edge of cake layer toward middle, place strawberries, flat base sides down and pointed tops up, on top of frosted bottom layer.
8. Spoon about 1 ½ cups frosting into a zip-top plastic freezer bag; snip 1 corner to make a small hole. Pipe frosting between strawberries, filling in spaces completely. Gently spread about ¾ cup of the frosting on top of berries.
9. Place second cake layer on berry layer; spread remaining frosting over top and sides of cake. Garnish with whole and sliced strawberries, if desired.
SERVES 12 ACTIVE 30 min. TOTAL 2 hours, 10 min.
SEASONAL KNOW-HOW
EAT SOME NOW, SAVE SOME FOR LATER
STORING
Ripe berries taste best when stored at room temperature up to two days; they keep five to seven days when placed in the fridge crisper drawer. Remove berries from their original containers, and arrange in a single layer on a tray or plate lined with paper towels. Discard bad berries daily because mold spreads like wildfire.
WASHING
Strawberries soak up water like small sponges, and wet berries will quickly turn mushy; wash them right before using under cool running water, and then pat dry. Remove the caps after washing.
FREEZING
To keep whole frozen strawberries separated, spread washed, capped, and dried berries in a single layer on a baking sheet or other shallow container that will fit on your freezer shelf. Once they’re frozen solid, transfer them into freezer bags or other airtight containers, and keep stored in the freezer. This allows you to pull out as many berries as needed rather than having to thaw an entire bag.
GRILLED CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH STRAWBERRY SALSA
We also love to drizzle Tangy Strawberry Barbecue Sauce over the chicken.
1 (6-oz.) can pineapple juice (about ¾ cup)
2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground ancho chile pepper
1½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
2 lb. chicken breast cutlets
Strawberry Salsa (recipe follows)
1. Whisk together the pineapple juice, vinegar, oil, cumin, ground ancho chile, salt, and pepper. Place the chicken cutlets in a large zip-top plastic freezer bag; pour marinade over chicken, turning to coat. Seal bag, and chill 30 minutes. Remove chicken from marinade, discarding marinade. Pat chicken dry.
2. Coat cold cooking grate of grill with cooking spray, and place on grill. Preheat grill to 350° to 400°F ( medium-high ). Place chicken on grate, and grill cutlets until grill marks appear and cutlets are done, 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Serve with Strawberry Salsa.
SERVES 6 ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 1 hour, including salsa
Strawberry Salsa
Toss together 2 cups diced fresh strawberries, 2 thinly sliced scallions, ½ cup thinly sliced baby radishes, 2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives, 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, ½ tsp. kosher salt, and ¼ tsp. black pepper in a bowl. Gently toss in 1 diced ripe avocado just before serving.
MAKES 3 cups ACTIVE 10 min. TOTAL 10 min.
Tangy Strawberry Barbecue Sauce
Process 4 cups sliced fresh strawberries, ½ cup chili sauce, 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar, 2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce, ½ tsp. lemon zest plus 2 Tbsp. fresh juice (about 1 lemon), 1 large minced garlic clove, 1 Tbsp. light brown sugar, ½ tsp. kosher salt, and ½ tsp. cayenne pepper in a food processor until smooth, 15 to 20 seconds.
MAKES 3 cups ACTIVE 10 min. TOTAL 10 min.
STRAWBERRY SALAD WITH WARM GOAT CHEESE CROUTONS
2 (4-oz.) goat cheese logs
⅓ cup (about 1 oz.) all-purpose flour
1 large egg
2 Tbsp. whole milk
½ cup panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs)
½ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. black pepper
¼ cup vegetable oil
5 oz. mixed baby greens
1½ cups sliced fresh strawberries
1 cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeds removed, cut crosswise into ½-inch slices
¼ red onion, thinly sliced
Strawberry-Poppy Seed Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
Garnish: dill sprigs
1. Cut each goat cheese log into 4 rounds. Gently press each round to ½-inch thickness on a baking sheet, and freeze 20 minutes.
2. Place the flour in a small bowl. Whisk together the egg and milk in a second small bowl. Combine the panko, salt, and pepper in a third small bowl. Dredge goat cheese rounds in flour, dip in egg mixture, and dredge in panko mixture until coated. Place on a plate, and chill until all goat cheese rounds are breaded.
3. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium until hot. Add goat cheese rounds to skillet, and cook until golden brown on each side, 3 to 4 minutes total. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate.
4. To serve, arrange salad greens on a serving platter; top with strawberries, cucumber, onion, and goat cheese croutons. Drizzle with vinaigrette, and garnish with dill sprigs.
SERVES 6 ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 50 min., including vinaigrette
Strawberry-Poppy Seed Vinaigrette
Toss together 1 cup quartered fresh strawberries, 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar, 5 Tbsp. white wine vinegar, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and ¼ tsp. black pepper in a bowl; let stand 15 minutes. Transfer the strawberry mixture to a blender, and process until smooth, about 30 seconds. Turn blender on low, and gradually add ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Return mixture to bowl, and whisk in 1 Tbsp. poppy seeds. Whisk vinaigrette just before serving.
MAKES 1½ cups ACTIVE 5 min. TOTAL 20 min.
STRAWBERRY BISCUITS
½ cup (4 oz.) salted butter, frozen
2½ cups (11 oz.) self-rising flour
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ tsp. baking powder
1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream
1 cup chopped fresh strawberries
2 Tbsp. salted butter, melted
Basil-Honey Butter (recipe follows)
1. Preheat the oven to 475°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Grate the frozen butter using large holes of a box grater. Toss together grated butter, flour, sugar, and baking powder in a large bowl. Chill 10 minutes.
2. Make a well in the center of the butter mixture. Add the heavy cream, and stir 10 times. Add the strawberries, and stir 5 times. (Dough will be loose and flaky.)
3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and gently knead 3 to 4 times. Lightly sprinkle flour over top of dough. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll dough into a ¾-inch-thick rectangle (about 9 x 5 inches). Starting at 1 short end, fold dough in half so short ends meet. Repeat rolling and folding procedure 4 more times.
4. Roll the dough to 1-inch thickness. Cut dough with a floured 2 ½-inch round cutter, and place on prepared baking sheet, rerolling dough scraps and flouring as needed.
5. Bake at 475°F until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Brush warm biscuits with melted salted butter, and serve with Basil-Honey Butter.
SERVES 12 ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 45 min.
BASIL-HONEY BUTTER
Stir together ½ cup (4 oz.) salted butter, softened; 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil; 1 tsp. lime zest; and 1 tsp. honey. Serve with Strawberry Biscuits.
MAKES ¾ cups ACTIVE 5 min. TOTAL 5 min.
Your Spring Vegetable Cookbook
FRESH AND FABULOUS RECIPES FOR THE SEASON’S BEST PRODUCE
I WAS A LUCKY CHILD. Vegetables seemed to be everywhere. If there weren’t plump tomatoes on the vine, there were mustard greens swishing in the sink or huge Vidalia onions being carefully loaded into the legs of pantyhose. I may not have been high off the ground when I started to take note of the vegetables in my life, but I was drawn in by their vivid colors, the range of aromas, and the way they seemed to bring everyone together.
Growing up in a farming community, I had vegetables coming into our home in bushels rather than grocery store bags. It was fresh produce that drew my parents and my grandmothers to the screened porch to shuck, shell, string, or snap. My hometown was small, but crops seemed to be plentiful. It was an ideal setting to learn the value of the journey from seed to plate.
Although you can now find nearly every type of produce year-round in supermarkets, a new respect for vegetables is emerging as we Southerners recommit to the standards that our grandparents lived and farmed by. Eat what’s in season, put up for when it’s not, cook what grows nearby, and be thankful for the Southern soil, rain, and sun.
LEMONY GREEN BEAN PASTA SALAD
Lemon and shallots marry for a bright taste that’s ideal for a ladies’ lunch or light supper.
If you can’t find haricots verts, use regular green beans instead.
12 oz. casarecce (or penne) pasta
½ lb. haricots verts (French green beans), cut in half lengthwise
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme
5 tsp. lemon zest, divided
¼ cup finely chopped roasted salted pistachios, plus more for topping
2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar
1 Tbsp. minced shallots
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tsp. table salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
5 Tbsp. olive oil
1½ cups loosely packed arugula
Grated Parmesan cheese, for topping
1. Cook pasta according to package directions, adding green beans to boiling water during last 2 minutes of cooking time; drain. Rinse pasta and green beans with cold water; drain well.
2. Place pasta mixture, thyme, and 3 tsp. lemon zest in a large bowl; toss gently to combine.
3. Whisk together ¼ cup pistachios, next 5 ingredients, and remaining 2 tsp. lemon zest in a small bowl. Add oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly until blended. Drizzle over pasta mixture. Add arugula, and toss gently to coat. Top the pasta with chopped pistachios and Parmesan.
SERVES 4 to 6 ACTIVE 15 min. TOTAL 30 min.
GET THE BOOK!
Let your farmers’ market bounty—tomatoes, corn, zucchini, and more—shine in the 100 fresh and seasonal recipes you’ll find in Rebecca Lang’s cookbook The Southern Vegetable Book.
SKIRT STEAK WITH FENNEL SLAW
This raw fennel and celery salad brings light and bright flavor to grilled marinated skirt steak. Throw corn tortillas on the grill to make impromptu tacos, a favorite weeknight dinner.
STEAK
⅓ cup red wine vinegar
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
½ tsp. table salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1½ lb. skirt steak
FENNEL SLAW
1¼ cups thinly sliced fennel bulb
¼ cup sliced green onions
2 Tbsp. thinly sliced celery
1 Tbsp. mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
1 tsp. diced jalapeño pepper
1 tsp. red wine vinegar
⅛ tsp. table salt
⅛ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the Steak: Preheat grill to 350° to 400°F (medium-high). In a large zip-top plastic bag, combine the vinegar, olive oil, garlic, mustard, salt, and pepper. Shake to combine. Add steak to the bag, seal bag, and marinate 30 minutes. Remove steak from marinade, discarding marinade.
2. Grill steak, turning once, 10 minutes total for medium-rare (or until desired doneness). Let steak rest for 10 minutes before slicing.
3. Prepare the Fennel Slaw: Combine all ingredients in a large bowl, and toss together. Chill until ready to serve.
4. Slice each strip of steak in half to make 2 shorter strips. Slice down the long side (across the grain) of each strip to create ½-inch-thick slices. Serve steak with Fennel Slaw.
SERVES 4 (serving size: about 1 cup) ACTIVE 30 min. TOTAL 1 hour
SPRING PEA ORZO
Add the dressing to the orzo while it’s still warm, which allows the flavor to soak fully into the pasta. This salad tastes even better the next day, so make it ahead.
“It was fresh produce that drew my parents and my grandmothers to the screened porch to shuck, shell, string, or snap.”
REBECCA LANG, author of The Southern Vegetable Book: A Root-to-Stalk Guide to the South’s Favorite Produce
3 to 4 lemons
8 oz. orzo pasta
¼ cup minced shallot or red onion
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
½ tsp. table salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups cooked fresh or frozen peas
1 cup snow peas or sugar snap peas, blanched and chopped
1 cup assorted chopped fresh herbs (like mint, chives, and parsley)
½ cup sliced almonds, toasted
1. Grate zest from lemons to equal 2 tsp.; set aside. Cut lemons in half; squeeze juice to equal ½ cup.
2. Prepare pasta according to package directions. Whisk together shallots, olive oil, mustard, salt, pepper, and lemon juice in a large bowl. Toss together cooked, drained pasta and shallot mixture. Cover with plastic wrap, and chill 1 to 48 hours.
3. Add peas, snow peas, herbs, almonds, and lemon zest to the pasta-shallot mixture just before serving. Toss together, and add salt, pepper, and additional lemon juice to taste.
SERVES 6 (serving size: about 1 cup) ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 30 min.
GEORGIA SHRIMP AND RADISH SALAD
Radishes at the farmers’ market can seem as varied and abundant as the colors of Easter eggs. Two different varieties give this salad vibrant color, texture, and flavor.
2 lb. unpeeled, large raw shrimp
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. table salt, divided
¾ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, divided
1 (4-oz.) watermelon radish, cut into fourths and thinly sliced
4 oz. D’avignon (French breakfast) radishes, thinly sliced
4 green onions, sliced
½ cup diced fennel bulb
¼ cup fresh orange juice
1 tsp. honey
2 Tbsp. mayonnaise
¼ cup chopped fresh mint, plus a few sprigs for garnish
1. Peel and devein shrimp, and pat dry. Sauté in a very hot cast-iron grill pan over medium-high 4 minutes.
2. Combine shrimp, olive oil, ½ tsp. salt, ½ tsp. pepper, and next 4 ingredients in a large bowl.
3. Whisk together orange juice, next 3 ingredients, and remaining ½ tsp. salt and ¼ tsp. pepper. Pour over shrimp mixture, and toss. Serve chilled.
SERVES 4 (serving size: about 1 cup) ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 50 min.
Mediterranean Medley
A ZESTY MARINADE LIVENS UP THIS PORK-AND-VEGGIE SHEET PAN SUPPER
GREEK PORK CHOPS WITH SQUASH AND POTATOES
4 (1-inch-thick) frenched pork loin chops
½ cup fresh lemon juice
4 Tbsp. olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano
1 tsp. black pepper
3 tsp. kosher salt, divided
2 medium yellow squash, sliced ½ inch thick
1 large zucchini, sliced ½ inch thick
½ lb. small red potatoes, quartered
1. Place pork chops in a 13- x 9-inch baking dish. Whisk together lemon juice, oil, garlic, oregano, pepper, and 2½ teaspoons salt; reserve 2 tablespoons marinade. Pour remaining marinade over pork, turning to coat. Chill 1 to 8 hours.
2. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Combine squash, zucchini, potatoes, and reserved marinade. Spread squash mixture in an even layer on a heavy-duty aluminum foil-lined rimmed sheet pan.
3. Remove pork from marinade. Pat dry with paper towels, and place on top of squash mixture.
4. Bake at 425°F for 25 minutes. Increase temperature to broil, and broil until a meat thermometer inserted into thickest portion registers 140°F, about 5 minutes. Transfer pork to a serving platter, and cover with foil. Return pan to oven, and broil squash mixture until slightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer squash mixture to a serving bowl; toss with remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and serve with pork.
SERVES 4 (serving size: 1 pork chop and about 1 cup vegetables) ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 1 hour, 40 min.
Dressed-Up Chicken Salad
LEFTOVER CHICKEN GETS A FRESH MAKEOVER WITH CRISP LETTUCE LEAVES, TOASTED WALNUTS, AND DRIED CHERRIES
CHICKEN SALAD IN LETTUCE CUPS
¼ cup chopped walnuts
¼ cup light mayonnaise
¼ cup plain fat-free Greek yogurt
2 tsp. sherry vinegar
¼ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 cups shredded skinless, boneless rotisserie chicken breast
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
6 green onions, white and light green parts, chopped
6 Bibb lettuce leaves
⅓ cup tart dried cherries
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Spread walnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet; bake in preheated oven until nuts are toasted, about 5 minutes. Cool.
3. Stir together mayonnaise, yogurt, vinegar, salt, and pepper in a bowl.
4. Place chicken, toasted walnuts, parsley, and green onions in a large bowl; toss to combine. Add the dressing, stirring well to coat.
5. Place 1 lettuce leaf in each of 6 bowls. Divide chicken salad evenly among the bowls; top with cherries.
SERVES 6 (serving size: 1 lettuce cup) ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 25 min.
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION (per serving)
CALORIES: 343; FAT 12.2 g (SAT FAT: 6.5 g); PROTEIN: 26 g; FIBER 2 g; CARBOHYDRATES 31 g; SODIUM: 647 mg
THE SL TEST KITCHEN ACADEMY: Veggie Lessons
LEARN HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR FARMERS’ MARKET BOUNTY
Beets
PICK WISELY: The smaller the beet, the more tender it will be. Bright greens are also better.
EASY PREP: Wrap in foil, and bake at 350°F for 1 hour, or until tender when pricked. Rub off the skins with paper towels.
SAVE THE TOPS: Add chopped beet greens to salads, or thinly slice and garnish on soups.
Green Beans
PICK WISELY: Select crisp, slender pods. Avoid brown spots.
EASY PREP: Instead of snapping each bean like Grandma did, line up the pods and remove stems with a chef’s knife.
BLANCH THEM: For crisp, tender beans, blanch in boiling water 4 to 5 minutes; then plunge into an ice bath for 4 to 5 minutes more.
Eggplant
PICK WISELY: No matter the size, color, or shape, choose a firm eggplant with shiny skin and green top.
EASY PREP: Small, young eggplants can be used as is; larger, older ones should be peeled.
ADD A PINCH: Curb bitterness in large eggplants by sprinkling with salt. Slice, salt, and let sit for 30 minutes. Rinse before cooking.
Radishes
PICK WISELY: Choose plump, firm radishes with fresh green leaves. Bigger isn’t always better: The larger the radish, the less crisp it will be.
EASY PREP: Trim—don’t toss—leaves. The greens are great for sautéing or garnishing dishes.
SOAK AND SERVE: Prefer extra-crunchy radishes? Soak in ice water before serving.
THE RIGHT WAY TO HULL A STRAWBERRY
Rest your thumb on the flat spine of a paring knife. Hold the berry in your other hand, and insert the knife at a 45-degree angle into the center of the fruit.
Keeping your thumb in the same position, twist the strawberry so the knife makes a circular cut around the stem. Remove the leaves and core.
MEET YOUR NEW FAVORITE APPETIZER...
Party Poppers
Satisfy hungry houseguests with a spicy two-bite appetizer stuffed with chicken-cream cheese filling and wrapped in some hickory-smoked bacon
For those who don’t like it hot, swap mini sweet peppers for spicy jalapeños.
12 medium jalapeño chiles
1 (8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened
1 cup finely chopped cooked chicken
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
¾ tsp. kosher salt
12 hickory-smoked bacon slices, cut in half
24 wooden picks
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut each chile in half lengthwise; remove seeds and membranes.
2. Stir together the cream cheese, chicken, cilantro, lime juice, and salt. Spoon 1½ to 2 teaspoons chicken mixture into each chile half, spreading to fill cavity. Wrap each half with a bacon piece, and secure with a wooden pick. Place poppers on a lightly greased wire rack in an aluminum foil-lined rimmed baking sheet.
3. Bake at 400°F until bacon begins to crisp and chiles are softened, about 25 minutes. Increase oven temperature to broil, and broil until bacon is crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes before serving.
SERVES 6 (serving size: 4 poppers) ACTIVE 20 min. TOTAL 35 min.
Banana Pudding with a Twist
THIS TAKE ON THE SOUTHERN CLASSIC OFFERS A TASTE OF THE TROPICS
COCONUT-BANANA PUDDING
The recipe below feeds a crowd, family style, but can be halved and served in individual bowls.
Keep banana slices from turning brown by tossing with 2 tablespoons lemon juice.
6 large egg yolks
1 cup (7 oz.) granulated sugar
½ cup (2.25 oz.) all-purpose flour
¼ tsp. table salt
3 cups half-and-half
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) salted butter
¼ tsp. coconut extract
3 tsp. vanilla extract, divided
3 cups heavy cream
½ cup (2 oz.) powdered sugar
1 (11-oz.) package vanilla wafers
6 small ripe bananas, sliced ¼ to ½ inch
1. Whisk egg yolks in a medium bowl until thick and lemon colored (about 1 minute).
2. Stir together sugar, flour, and salt in a large heavy saucepan; gradually whisk in half-and-half. Whisking constantly, bring mixture just to a boil over medium (about 8 to 10 minutes). Remove from heat.
3. Gradually whisk about one-fourth of hot sugar mixture into yolks; gradually add yolk mixture to remaining hot sugar mixture, whisking constantly. Return to heat; cook over medium, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Remove from heat, and whisk in butter, coconut extract, and 2 teaspoons vanilla. Transfer to a medium bowl, and place plastic wrap directly on warm filling to prevent a film from forming; cool completely (about 2 hours).
4. Beat cream and remaining 1 teaspoon vanilla at medium-high speed with an electric mixer until foamy; gradually add powdered sugar, and beat until medium peaks form.
5. Reserve 12 vanilla wafers. Arrange half of remaining wafers in 1 layer in the bottom of a 3 ½- to 4-quart bowl. Top with half of banana slices, half of custard, and half of whipped cream. Repeat layers once. Top with crumbled reserved wafers.
SERVES 16 (serving size: about 1 cup) ACTIVE 30 min. TOTAL 2 hours, 30 min., including 2 hours cooling