Chapter 1

JULIA REED ENTERTAINS WITH AN ITALIAN-INSPIRED MENU THAT TAKES ADVANTAGE OF WARM-WEATHER PRODUCE AND A SIMPLE, RUSTIC SETTING

WHEN I WAS A KID, everything I knew about Italian food was learned over countless meals at the Venetian Cafe in my hometown of Greenville, Mississippi, and at Perri’s Italian Restaurant—a festive trattoria in Fort Walton Beach, Florida, near Destin, where we vacationed. Both featured red-and-white checked tablecloths, dripping candles in straw-covered bottles, lasagna, pizza, and a whole lot of long-simmered red sauce. I loved it all, but I had no idea what I’d been missing until Marcella Hazan published The Classic Italian Cook Book in 1973. It was the first of six tomes that would change the way Americans thought about Italian food in much the same way that Julia Child had introduced us to the glories of French cuisine a little more than a decade earlier.

Long before “farm to table” became a thing, Hazan stressed the importance of fresh ingredients and uncomplicated technique. Her own—exquisite—tomato sauce is enriched with nothing more than butter, onion, and salt. Her spareribs, which inspired the ones featured here, are marinated in just olive oil, garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper.

I most often make like Marcella in the waning days of summer, when eggplant and zucchini are plentiful and late tomatoes are just coming in. It’s still too hot to linger long over a stove or grill, but a porch outfitted with a ceiling fan can make the weather bearable and foreshadow the fall months ahead. For a late lunch or early supper, I start with spaghetti tossed with a tomato sauce different from those of my childhood. Roasting cherry tomatoes intensifies their flavor without a lot of fuss. When fresh shrimp is available, I add it too. The aforementioned ribs are grilled for no more than 30 or 35 minutes—a fact that always stuns the guests who insist on parboiling or prebaking prior to grilling and then saucing them to death before serving. They are truly a revelation and can be paired with Italian sausages that require little time on the grill.

To accompany the meat, I love a clean and bright zucchini salad. Hazan’s version calls for boiling the zucchini whole in salted water until just tender before slicing and tossing with olive oil and lemon juice. Jacques Pépin slices and roasts his in a 400° oven for five minutes before tossing with oil and vinegar. You can’t go wrong with either one, though in both cases chopped fresh mint is a welcome addition. For dessert, I take the easy route and buy gelato or lemon sorbet at the grocery store.

Though I have no objection to a red-and-white cloth, a softer palette is more in keeping with both the season and the menu. Here I use the hand-printed Argus linen by my talented friend, fabric designer Elizabeth Hamilton. When she first showed it to me, I couldn’t believe how well it complemented the McCartys pottery I’ve long collected. Now Elizabeth and her husband, Peter Fasano (also a fabric designer), are McCartys collectors too. I love the literal earthiness of the pottery pieces in combination with the rustic Italian food. We may be dining on plates made from Mississippi mud near my hometown, but we are a long way in spirit from the Venetian Cafe.

1. Grind together fennel seeds and crushed red pepper in a spice grinder. (If you don’t have a spice grinder, use a heavy knife to mince the seeds and red pepper.) Combine ground spices and salt; rub mixture all over the ribs. Cover ribs, and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight, if possible. (If not, rub the ribs a minimum of 2 hours ahead of time.)

2. Stir together olive oil, lemon juice, rosemary, garlic, and black pepper in a small bowl. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator. Place the ribs on a platter or broiler pan, and pour the marinade from the bowl over the meat, rubbing it in with your fingers. Let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour, turning the ribs at least once.

3. Preheat the broiler or gas grill to high (450°F to 550°F) 15 minutes before you are ready to cook. (If using charcoal, allow it time to form a full coating of white ash.) Place the broiler pan (or the grilling rack, if it’s adjustable) about 8 inches from the source of heat. Place spareribs on the pan or grill, and brush with any remaining marinade. Cook for 30 to 35 minutes, turning rack 3 or 4 times.

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Toss together tomatoes, crushed red pepper, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 2 tablespoons of the garlic, and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a 13- x 9-inch baking dish. Bake in preheated oven until tomatoes soften and release their juices, about 45 minutes. (You can do this step a few hours ahead of time. Let tomatoes stand at room temperature until ready to use.)

2. Bring a large pot of water and 1 tablespoon of the salt to a boil over high. Add spaghetti, and cook until al dente, 9 to 11 minutes. Drain spaghetti, reserving 1 cup cooking water.

3. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium. Add remaining 1 tablespoon garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, until just beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Add shrimp, and cook, stirring constantly, until shrimp begin to turn pink and are cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add reserved cooking water to shrimp mixture; reduce heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes. Stir in parsley.

4. Transfer drained pasta to a large serving bowl. Add shrimp mixture, tomatoes, basil, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil and ½ teaspoon salt, and gently toss. Serve immediately.

NOTE: You can make this without the shrimp. Sauté garlic in the skillet as directed, and add the pasta water and parsley, omitting shrimp. When I do it this way, I also toss in ½ cup grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese.

SEVEN GORGEOUS FALL DESSERTS WITH DELICIOUS SURPRISES INSIDE, FROM DECADENT CHOCOLATE LAYERS TO FRESH AND FLAVORFUL SEASONAL INGREDIENTS

Layers of chocolate cake and coconut cream are covered in dark chocolate frosting for a striking dessert that tastes every bit as good as it looks. The cake layers can be baked and frozen up to two weeks in advance to cut down on hands-on time.

1. Prepare the Cake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine boiling water, cocoa, unsweetened chocolate, and, if desired, instant coffee in a bowl. Let stand 2 minutes; whisk until smooth. Let cool completely.

2. Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Beat butter with an electric mixer at medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Add brown sugar and 1 cup granulated sugar; beat until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in sour cream and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with cocoa mixture, in 5 additions, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Beat at medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Divide batter evenly between 2 (9-inch) greased and floured round cake pans. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean, 28 to 32 minutes. Cool in pans on a wire rack 10 minutes. Remove cake from pans; cool completely, about 30 minutes.

3. Prepare the Coconut Cream Filling: Stir together half-and-half and shredded coconut in a small saucepan over medium; bring just to a boil. Remove pan from heat; let stand 30 minutes. Pour mixture through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a bowl, pressing on solids; discard solids. Return coconut liquid to pan; bring to a simmer. (Coconut liquid should just begin to bubble around the edges of pan.) Whisk together 5 tablespoons granulated sugar, cornstarch, and egg yolks in a medium bowl until smooth. Gradually add hot coconut liquid to egg mixture, whisking constantly. Return mixture to pan. Cook, whisking constantly, over medium until thick and bubbly, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Whisk in 2 tablespoons butter, rum, 1 teaspoon vanilla, and coconut extract. Pour mixture into a shallow dish; refrigerate until completely cold, about 2 hours. Transfer chilled custard to a medium bowl.

4. Beat ½ cup heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Gently fold whipped cream into custard in 2 batches. Refrigerate until ready to use.

5. Prepare Chocolate Frosting: Combine 2 cups heavy cream and powdered sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium. (Do not boil.) Place bittersweet chocolate in a medium bowl; pour hot cream mixture over chocolate. Let stand 1 minute; gently stir until all of the chocolate melts and mixture is smooth. Chill until mixture thickens to spreading consistency, 30 to 40 minutes, stirring every few minutes.

6. To assemble cake, slice cake layers in half horizontally using a serrated knife; place 1 layer, cut side up, on a plate. Spread about ¼ cup Chocolate Frosting over top. Top with one-third of Coconut Cream Filling, leaving a ½-inch border. Top with another cake layer; repeat layers twice, beginning with frosting and ending with a cake layer. Spread remaining Chocolate Frosting on top and sides of cake. (If chocolate gets too thick to spread, microwave at HIGH until spreadable, 5 to 7 minutes.) Press unsweetened flaked coconut around sides of cake.

The secret to making a roulade: Line your baking pan with parchment paper. Use the paper as a guide to roll the cake when it is still slightly warm. After the cake has cooled, unroll it, add the filling, and reroll it back into a spiral.

CREAM CHEESE STUDDED WITH ROASTED APPLES IS ROLLED BETWEEN LAYERS OF CINNAMON-SPICED CAKE

1. Prepare the Apple-Cream Cheese Filling: Preheat oven to 400°F. Place apples and 1 tablespoon granulated sugar in a bowl; toss well to coat. Spread apples in a single layer on a baking sheet coated with cooking spray. Bake in preheated oven until tender and well browned, about 20 minutes, stirring after 10 minutes. Remove apples from pan, and cool completely.

2. Meanwhile, beat cream cheese, butter, 1 teaspoon vanilla, and ⅛ teaspoon salt with an electric mixer at medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Add 1½ cups powdered sugar; beat until smooth, about 1 minute. Fold in roasted apples. Refrigerate until ready to use.

3. Prepare the Cake: Preheat oven to 400°F. Coat a 17- x 12-inch rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray; line with parchment paper. Coat parchment with cooking spray.

4. Beat egg yolks and ½ cup granulated sugar at high speed until thick and pale, about 5 minutes. Beat in 1 teaspoon vanilla.

5. Using clean, dry beaters, beat egg whites in a separate bowl at medium speed until foamy. Increase speed to high, and beat until soft peaks form. Add remaining ¼ cup granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating at high speed until medium peaks form. Stir one-fourth of egg white mixture into egg yolk mixture; gently fold in remaining three-fourths egg white mixture.

6. Sift together cake flour, cinnamon, baking powder, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Sift cake flour mixture over egg mixture, ¼ cup at a time, folding in until blended after each addition. Spread batter in prepared baking sheet.

7. Bake at 400°F until puffed and lightly browned on top, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool 5 minutes. Sprinkle 4 tablespoons powdered sugar over top of cake. Invert cake onto a parchment paper-lined surface. Peel off top layer of parchment paper from cake. Starting at 1 short side, roll cake and bottom parchment together. Transfer to a wire rack, and cool completely, about 30 minutes.

8. Unroll cake onto a flat surface. Spread Apple-Cream Cheese Filling over top, leaving a 1-inch border on all sides. Starting at 1 short side and using parchment paper as a guide, roll up cake in jelly-roll fashion. Place cake on a platter, seam side down. Sprinkle top and sides with remaining 2 tablespoons powdered sugar. Serve immediately.

Coat your pan with cooking spray because that’s what will keep the parchment paper divider in place for the pretty pumpkin and vanilla layers.

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Coat an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking spray. Cut a 25- x 8-inch piece of parchment paper. Fold parchment rectangle in half (short end to short end), pressing firmly on folded end to make a crease. Fold creased end over about 3 inches, pressing firmly to make another crease in parchment paper. Unfold entire piece, and turn over. Pinch and pick up middle crease, creating a 3-inch-tall divider in middle of rectangle. Place in greased pan, pressing paper onto bottom of pan to fit as tightly as possible, and making sure divider is in the middle. Allow excess paper to extend over sides to use as handles. Coat top of parchment paper with cooking spray.

2. Beat butter, granulated sugar, and vanilla with an electric mixer at medium speed until well combined, about 1 minute. Beat in eggs and egg yolk. Add flour, baking powder, and salt to egg mixture; beat at medium speed until smooth, about 2 minutes. Remove 1¼ cups batter to another bowl, and stir in canned pumpkin and pumpkin pie spice. Spoon plain batter into 1 side of the parchment paper divider in prepared pan; spread until smooth. Spoon pumpkin batter into the empty side of the parchment paper divider of the prepared pan; spread until smooth.

3. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 30 to 33 minutes. Cool in pan 10 minutes. Lift cakes from pan, using paper sides as handles, and place on wire rack. Cool completely, about 30 minutes.

4. Remove cakes from parchment paper; trim the edges and tops of both cakes, as needed. Cut each loaf in half lengthwise, creating 4 equal strips.

5. Place jam in a microwave-safe bowl; microwave at HIGH just until warm, about 30 seconds. Spread jam on tops and sides of cake strips. Gently press 1 strip of each color together at long sides; top with remaining 2 strips, alternately stacking to create a checkerboard pattern.

6. Roll marzipan on a surface sprinkled with sifted powdered sugar into a 12- x 8-inch rectangle. Place cake loaf, top jam-side down, in center of marzipan rectangle with the short ends of loaf facing the long sides of rectangle. Brush remaining 3 sides of cake with jam. Wrap marzipan around cake loaf, and gently press to adhere. Trim ends and where seam meets. Place cake loaf on platter, seam side down. Brush surface of cake lightly to remove excess powdered sugar. Lightly score top of cake in a diamond pattern with the edge of a sharp knife.

The “cooked” buttercream in this cake is an old-fashioned method that yields delicious results.

WE TURNED ONE OF THE SOUTH’S MOST HUMBLE SWEETS—THE PRALINE—INTO A SHOWSTOPPING DESSERT.

1. Prepare the Candied Pecans: Preheat oven to 300°F. Whisk together 2 tablespoons light brown sugar, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, ¼ teaspoon salt, and 1 egg white in a medium bowl until foamy. Add pecan halves; toss well to coat. Spread pecan halves in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake in preheated oven until browned, 25 to 28 minutes, stirring after 15 minutes. Cool completely, about 30 minutes. (Pecans will become crisp when cool.)

2. Prepare the Cake: Increase oven temperature to 350°F. Whisk together 3 cups flour, 1 tablespoon baking powder, and ¾ teaspoon salt in a bowl. Beat 2 cups granulated sugar and 1 cup butter in a large bowl of a stand mixer at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add eggs and egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with milk, in 5 additions, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Beat at low speed after each addition. Beat in pecan liqueur and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Divide batter evenly between 2 (9-inch) greased and floured round cake pans.

3. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean, 28 to 30 minutes. Cool in pans on a wire rack 10 minutes. Remove cakes from pans; cool completely on wire rack, about 30 minutes.

4. Prepare the Filling: Combine ¾ cup dark brown sugar, 6 tablespoons butter, and ¼ cup heavy cream in a small saucepan over medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until butter melts; bring to a boil. Cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Remove pan from heat; add powdered sugar and ¼ teaspoon vanilla. Beat at low speed until mixture thickens to spreading consistency, about 1 minute. Stir in chopped toasted pecans.

5. Prepare the Buttercream: Whisk together 1 cup light brown sugar, 1 cup milk, ½ cup flour, and ¼ teaspoon salt in a small saucepan until smooth. Place pan over medium-high, and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is very thick and bubbly, 4 to 5 minutes. Spoon mixture into a bowl; place bowl in freezer, uncovered, until mixture is cold, about 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes.

6. Beat 1 cup butter with an electric mixer at medium speed, using whisk attachment, until creamy and smooth, about 2 minutes. Add cold brown sugar mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating well after each addition. Add 1½ teaspoons vanilla, and beat at high speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.

7. Place 1 cake layer on a serving plate; spread Filling evenly over top, leaving a ½-inch border. Place remaining cake layer on top, pressing lightly. Spread Buttercream on top and sides of cake. Arrange Candied Pecans over top.

These caramel- and granola-topped muffins may look and taste like a fancy coffeehouse treat, but they’re easy to whip up any fall morning.

1. Preheat oven to 375ºF. Stir together flour, cranberries, baking powder, apple pie spice, salt, baking soda, and ¾ cup of the granola in a large bowl. Whisk together applesauce, brown sugar, butter, eggs, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Add applesauce mixture to flour mixture, stirring until just combined.

2. Fit 1 parchment square into each of the lightly greased cups of a 12-cup muffin pan, pressing folds into paper as needed. Divide muffin batter evenly among prepared muffin cups in pan. Lightly press apple pieces into tops of batter, and sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup granola. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 22 to 27 minutes. Cool in pans on wire racks 5 minutes. Remove from pans to wire racks, and cool completely (about 30 minutes). Drizzle with Sticky Maple-Caramel Sauce before serving, if desired.

Place 12 caramel candies, 2 Tbsp. heavy cream, 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup, and ¼ tsp. kosher salt in a small microwave-safe bowl, and microwave on HIGH just until smooth, 1 minute to 1 minute and 30 seconds, stirring at 30-second intervals. Cool, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes.

We updated an old-fashioned Southern cake with the warm spice of chai, an Indian tea.

1. Prepare the Cream Cheese Filling: Preheat oven to 350°F. Beat cream cheese, ¼ cup granulated sugar, 1 egg, 2 tablespoons flour, and 1 teaspoon vanilla with an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth.

2. Prepare the Apple-Spice Batter: Beat brown sugar, oil, and ½ cup granulated sugar with an electric stand mixer on medium speed until well blended. Add 3 eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in 2 teaspoons vanilla. Whisk together baking powder, pumpkin pie spice, cardamom, salt, baking soda, coriander, and 3 cups flour. Gradually add to brown sugar mixture, beating on low speed until just blended. Add apples, and beat on low speed just until combined.

3. Spoon half of the batter into a greased and floured 14-cup Bundt pan. Dollop Cream Cheese Filling over the apple mixture, leaving a 1-inch border around edges of pan. Swirl filling through batter using a knife. Spoon remaining batter over filling.

4. Bake in preheated oven until a long wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Cool cake in pan on a wire rack 20 minutes; remove from pan to wire rack, and cool completely (about 2 hours). Spoon frosting immediately over cooled cake; sprinkle with pecans.

1. Bring brown sugar, cream, and butter to a boil in a 2-quart heavy saucepan over medium, whisking constantly; boil, whisking constantly, 1 minute.

2. Remove pan from heat; stir in vanilla. Gradually whisk in powdered sugar until smooth. Gently stir until mixture begins to cool and thicken, 4 to 5 minutes. Use immediately.

Filled with banana cream, topped with peanut butter buttercream, and drizzled with chocolate, these are outrageously rich.

1. Prepare the Banana Cream Filling: Stir together banana and lemon juice in a small bowl. Beat ¼ cup powdered sugar, 3 ounces cream cheese, and 2 tablespoons heavy cream in a medium bowl with an electric mixer at low speed until smooth. Stir in ½ cup of the banana-lemon mixture, reserving the remaining ¾ cup banana-lemon mixture for the batter.

2. Prepare the Cupcakes: Preheat oven to 350°F. Place baking cup liners in a 12-cup muffin pan; lightly coat liners with cooking spray. Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon salt in a bowl. Beat granulated sugar, brown sugar, and ½ cup butter at medium speed in a large bowl until well combined, about 3 minutes. Add milk, eggs, and ½ teaspoon vanilla; beat at low speed until combined, about 2 minutes. (Mixture may look curdled.) Gradually add flour mixture, beating at medium-low speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. Stir reserved ¾ cup banana-lemon mixture into batter.

3. Spoon about 1 tablespoon cupcake batter into each muffin cup; top evenly with Banana Cream Filling. Top evenly with remaining cupcake batter, and bake in preheated oven until tops are golden brown and cupcakes spring back when lightly touched, 18 to 20 minutes. Cool in pan 5 minutes. Remove cupcakes to a wire rack, and cool completely, about 30 minutes.

4. Prepare the Peanut Butter Buttercream: Beat peanut butter, ¼ cup butter, 3 tablespoons cream cheese, ¼ teaspoon vanilla, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in a medium bowl at medium-low speed until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add 3 cups powdered sugar alternately with 3 tablespoons of the cream, beating at low speed until smooth after each addition. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of the cream, 1 teaspoon at a time, if needed, to reach desired consistency. Spoon frosting into a zip-top plastic freezer bag. Snip 1 corner of bag to make a small hole. Pipe about 3 tablespoons buttercream onto each cupcake. Drizzle melted chocolate evenly over buttercream.

IN SOUTHWEST LOUISIANA, A FISH-CAMP FEAST CELEBRATES THE LOCAL BOUNTY AND THE FAMILY HISTORY OF TWO PASSIONATE CAJUN COOKS

CRAB FOR A CROWD: Chef David Guas helps his Aunt Boo (aka Janice Bourgeois Macomber) prepare a crab-artichoke spread at her Louisiana fish shack.

YOU CAN’T GET TO THIS PARTY WITHOUT A BOAT, so the fun begins at Don’s Boat Landing just outside of Abbeville, where it’s never too early for a Bloody Mary and a bag of Zapp’s. From this fishing town in southwest Louisiana, it’s a 30-minute ride through Boston Canal, a man-made waterway, past grazing horses, endless cattails, and gators sunning on the banks. After passing various intriguing inlets, you’ll cross the Intracoastal Waterway, dotted with massive barges, until a “no wake zone; dead slow” sign and scattering of stilt houses announce that you’re close. There, near the mouth of Vermilion Bay, is Camp Peace. It’s best to arrive hungry.

Chef David Guas grew up in New Orleans, and the beloved flavors of his childhood inspired Bayou Bakery—his cafés in Arlington, Virginia, and Washington, D.C. Guas trained at several high-end restaurants, but he learned the fundamentals of Cajun cooking from his feisty Aunt Boo, aka Janice Bourgeois Macomber. The daughter of a shrimper father and a Sicilian mother, Boo has always been a force to be reckoned with—especially in the kitchen.

Boo began cooking in the seventies, when she lived in the French Quarter. After she was widowed at 36, she returned to her hometown of Abbeville to raise her two young daughters. These days, when she’s not catching flying beads at Mardi Gras or sipping beer at Jazz Fest, she’s at home in Abbeville or in a boat pointed toward Camp Peace, her bayou refuge and happy place. The rustic shack was the only one in the area that survived Hurricane Rita, hence its name. (Boo credits this to divine intervention.)

Whenever Guas returns to Louisiana to visit his aunt, they head to Camp Peace to stock crab traps, fish, and do what they do best: cook. “The key to cooking on the Boston Canal with Aunt Boo is to have just the right amount of cold beer and bourbon to make it to the end of the trip,” David says, “’cause once you’re on da canal, cher, you out there!” Today is that sort of gathering; friends and family have come together to sip cold beer and feast on the Gulf’s bounty as they honor the history that stitches them together. This is the kind of meal that kicks off early (with grilled oysters and spiked sun tea) and lasts through every last drop of daylight.

While Guas may have gone on to run two restaurants, author two cookbooks, and host a television show, when he’s at Camp Peace, Boo tells her nephew how it’s done: the correct way to score redfish for easy serving, for instance, or how to brown a roux. (In his restaurants, Guas relies on the steady heat of his oven, which prompts Boo to shake her head in disbelief.) Today, Guas has been scolded several times for buying the wrong cut of frozen chicken for the crab traps. “I still want to be the boss in the kitchen,” she confesses, although she’s clearly pleased with her protégé. “He found his passion at a young age, and I am so proud that he stuck with it.”

Guas doesn’t mind deferring. “At the end of the day I yield, because there’s the deepest amount of love and respect for that woman. If she says it’s done a certain way, then that’s how it’s done.”

Made with strong tea that’s typically steeped on the dock in the morning sun, this refreshing elixir is dangerously easy to sip, and can be made with your favorite bourbon.

Stir together tea and lemonade in a pitcher, and chill until very cold, about 1 hour. To assemble each drink, fill a 16-ounce glass two-thirds full with ice. Add 2 ounces bourbon, and fill glass with tea mixture. Place 3 or 4 fresh mint leaves and 2 or 3 lemon slices in a cocktail shaker. Pour contents of glass into shaker; cover and shake vigorously for 10 seconds. Pour cocktail into same glass. Repeat process to make 9 cocktails.

This dish was born when Boo found herself with artichokes and lots of leftover boiled crab. As the name implies (Crab—It’s So Good!), the luxurious sauté of lump crab and artichokes is delicious.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small skillet over medium. Add breadcrumbs, and cook, stirring often, until toasted and golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and set aside.

3. Heat butter and remaining 6 tablespoons oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high. When butter starts to sizzle, add onion, artichoke hearts, oregano, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, bay leaf, cayenne, salt, and pepper, and cook, stirring often, until vegetables are slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add wine and lemon juice, and cook until liquid reduces slightly, about 5 minutes. Add crabmeat, scallions, and parsley, and cook, stirring often, until crabmeat is warm and wine is mostly evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat; taste and add seasonings as desired. Remove bay leaf. Cover and let stand 5 minutes. Transfer warm crab mixture to a serving dish, and top with toasted breadcrumbs. Serve immediately with bread slices.

This is a great appetizer to kick off a party, because oysters tend to draw a crowd—it’s fun to watch (and smell) them sizzling over the heat. Prep the lemon-garlic butter and cheese topping in advance, then shuck and grill the oysters in batches. They’re best eaten soon after they come off the grill, with slices of bread to sop up any remaining sauce.

1. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium. Stir in parsley, lemon juice, garlic, and salt. Remove from heat, and place saucepan next to grill to keep butter warm.

2. Heat grill to medium (about 400°F). Stir together Parmesan and Romano cheeses in a bowl.

3. Shuck oysters, and discard top shell. Using an oyster knife, disconnect the oyster from the bottom shell, keeping the oyster in the shell. Place the raw oysters on the half shell on the grill, and top each oyster with about 1 tablespoon of the butter mixture. Grill, uncovered, until juices start to bubble and the edges of the oysters begin to curl, about 2 minutes. Top each oyster with a generous pinch of the cheese mixture. Continue grilling, uncovered, until the edges of the shells start to brown, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, transfer oysters from grill to a serving platter. Top with any remaining butter mixture. Serve with grilled or baked French bread.

NOTE: Large oysters are important here, because they stand up better on the grill and cradle more of the buttery sauce.

Shrimp Nana, a recipe from Boo’s Sicilian mother, Theresa Russo, is a party staple. Boo marinates the shrimp a few days in advance so that by the time she arrives at Camp Peace, they have become instant appetizers to be eaten in between beers.

1. Bring 7 quarts water and 2 tablespoons of the salt to a rolling boil in a large stockpot over high. Carefully add shrimp, and cook until the shrimp turn pink and are just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain shrimp in a colander, and rinse with cold water. When shrimp are cool enough to handle, peel and devein. (Save shells for stock, if desired.)

2. Layer shrimp and onion slices in alternating layers in a large, sealable storage container.

3. Whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, capers, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, garlic powder, paprika, celery salt, cayenne, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Pour marinade over shrimp; cover and chill 2 hours. Toss mixture (or invert container), and chill 2 to 3 days, tossing occasionally. Taste shrimp before serving, and add salt, heat, or lemon juice as desired. Serve as an appetizer, with toothpicks, hot sauce, and lemon wedges. Shrimp will keep for an additional 3 days in the refrigerator.

NOTE:This recipe can be enhanced with any fresh herbs you have on hand. Feel free to add a few fresh bay leaves to the marinade, or toss marinated shrimp with chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley just before serving.

MAKES 12½ cups ACTIVE 35 min. TOTAL 2 days, 35 min., including 2 days marinating

Court-bouillon is a classic French broth used for poaching seafood and infusing it with flavor. For the Cajun version (pronounced roughly “KORR-boo-yawn”), a whole Gulf fish such as redfish or catfish is cooked in rich tomato gravy. Boo’s long-simmered sauce has plenty of personality. This dish is a fish-camp favorite because it cooks while everyone snacks and sips and enjoys the party down below.

1 whole 3- to 5-lb. redfish or similar Gulf fish (such as grouper or drum), scaled, gutted, and trimmed

1. Heat oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium-high. Add onions, celery, bell pepper, mushrooms, garlic, and bay leaves, and cook until vegetables have softened, about 7 minutes. Add wine, and cook, stirring once or twice, until liquid is slightly reduced, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, tomatoes and chiles, and shrimp stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Stir in olive salad, scallions, and parsley. Remove from heat.

2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Rinse redfish. Make 4 parallel cuts on each side of fish, slicing into the flesh at an angle and down to the bone, to create 4 fairly even portions. Sprinkle salt evenly on fish, rubbing some salt into the cuts. Place fish in a large roasting pan, and pour half of the sauce over fish. Layer lemon slices on fish, and cover with remaining sauce. Cover with aluminum foil, and bake in preheated oven, basting occasionally with pan sauce, until fish is cooked through and flakes easily with a fork, about 45 minutes. Remove pan from oven, and stir shrimp into pan sauce. Cover with foil, and return to oven. Cook until shrimp turn pink, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven, discard foil, and let fish rest 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with steamed rice.

For this rich, playful, and fun-to-eat preparation, grilled bananas masquerade as pirogues (Cajun flat-bottomed boats). Making the pralines in advance—they’ll keep for 3 days in a sealed container—helps this dessert come together quickly.

Heat grill to medium (350°F to 450°F). Grill bananas, uncovered, turning once, until they soften and blacken, 6 to 7 minutes on each side. Remove from heat, and cool 5 minutes. Cut a slit lengthwise through each banana peel from stem to end without cutting through banana. Gently open the slit. Place each banana in a shallow bowl. Top each with ice cream and about ¼ cup crumbled Pecan Pralines.

NOTE: To help your “pirogue” sit upright in the bowl, slice a strip of peel off the base to create a flat bottom.

1. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low. Add brown sugar, granulated sugar, and ½ cup of the cream; stir until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium, and simmer, using a heatproof rubber spatula to stir gently occasionally, until a candy thermometer reads 240°F to 250°F. (If mixture begins to crystallize, add 2 tablespoons of the cream, and cook, stirring, until it liquefies.) Stir in chopped pecans. Turn off heat, and give the mixture a final gentle stir, making sure to scrape the bottom and corners of the pan.

2. Using a wooden spoon, scoop about 2 tablespoons of the hot praline mixture onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving at least 1 inch between pralines. If mixture begins to crystallize in pan, add remaining 2 tablespoons of the cream, heat over medium, and stir until mixture looks creamy. Cool pralines on pans until solid, about 30 minutes. Transfer to an airtight container. (Pralines may be kept in the airtight container up to 3 days.)

TAKE COMFORT IN THESE FIVE CROWD-PLEASING DISHES STARRING SOME OF OUR FAVORITE SEASONAL INGREDIENTS

An Italian-American classic gets a dose of Southern flavor. Other than cooking the pasta, you can pull this casserole together in a single skillet, making it ideal for busy weeknights.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Prepare pasta according to package directions, reducing boiling time to 8 minutes.

2. Cook sausage, peppers, onion, and garlic in hot oil in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high, stirring often, until vegetables are soft and sausage has begun to brown slightly, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, tomato sauce, sugar, salt, and pepper. Bring mixture to a simmer over medium, and add ½ cup of the Parmesan, stirring until melted. Stir in cooked pasta. Remove from heat, and sprinkle with mozzarella and remaining ¼ cup Parmesan.

3. Bake in preheated oven until mixture is bubbly and cheese is golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

ANDOUILLE

This spicy, heavily smoked pork sausage is seasoned slowly and cooked over pecan wood and sugarcane to achieve its distinctive flavor and firm texture.

SHOP SMART: Andouille is sold ready-to-eat, with or without heating. Although it is fully cooked, it must be refrigerated.

COOKING TIP: Commonly associated with jambalaya and gumbo, andouille can be used in place of any spicy sausage, like hot Italian sausage or pepperoni.

Collards pair well with this chile sauce, but you can substitute other hearty greens too, like kale.

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Lightly coat a 13- x 9-inch baking dish with cooking spray; set aside. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium. Add collards, onion, and minced garlic; cook, stirring often, until collards are cooked to desired degree of tenderness, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in cream cheese, milk, sugar, salt, pepper, and 1 cup of the cheese; cook, stirring constantly, until heated through, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in chicken.

2. Whisk together enchilada sauce and sour cream in a small bowl. Spoon 1 cup sauce mixture into prepared baking dish.

3. Wrap tortillas in damp paper towels, and tightly wrap with plastic wrap. Microwave at HIGH until tortillas are softened, about 1 minute. (Softening the tortillas prevents them from tearing.)

4. Spoon about ⅓ cup collard green mixture just below the center of each tortilla. Fold opposite sides of tortilla over filling, and roll up. Place enchiladas, seam side down, on sauce mixture in baking dish. Top with remaining sauce mixture and remaining 1 cup cheese.

5. Bake in preheated oven until light brown and bubbly, 25 to 30 minutes. Garnish with sliced radishes and jalapeños and cilantro leaves.

COLLARD GREENS

This staple of Southern country cooking is also a nutritional powerhouse: Collards are rich in calcium, fiber, and vitamins A and C.

EASY PREP: Submerge the leaves in a sink full of cold water, swish them around, and then let them soak for a few minutes so the grit falls to the bottom of the sink.

COOKING TIP: Small, tender leaves are delicious raw in salads and slaws. Larger, tougher leaves are best sautéed or braised.

Cubes of French bread are baked in a rich Parmesan custard with smoky bacon, spinach, and chunks of roasted sweet potatoes. Serve this comforting casserole with a green salad for dinner or as a company-worthy brunch.

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Lightly coat an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet with cooking spray. Toss together sweet potatoes, olive oil, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper on the prepared baking sheet. Bake in preheated oven until sweet potatoes are just tender, 20 to 25 minutes, stirring halfway through.

2. Meanwhile, cook bacon, in batches, in a large skillet over medium until crisp, 10 to 12 minutes; remove bacon, and drain on paper towels, reserving 2 tablespoons drippings in skillet. Crumble bacon.

4. Cook onion in hot drippings over medium until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add spinach, and cook until spinach begins to wilt, about 1 minute. Add bread cubes and crumbled bacon to spinach mixture, stirring to completely incorporate.

5. Whisk together eggs, half-and-half, Parmesan, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper in a large bowl. Stir in bread cube mixture, stirring gently to completely incorporate. Gently stir in roasted potatoes. Lightly coat a 13- x 9-inch baking dish with cooking spray; spoon mixture into prepared dish.

6. Bake at 350°F until golden brown and set in the middle, 45 to 50 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

SWEET POTATOES

One of the South’s prized crops, sweet potatoes have dozens of varieties, from white to deep orange.

SHOP SMART: Look for smooth, unblemished medium-size potatoes. Store in a cool, dark place, but do not refrigerate as that will cause them to harden in the center.

EASY PREP: To prevent the flesh from browning, rinse cut sweet potatoes in cold water before cooking.

This dish is simple to make, but it packs a surprising amount of flavor from tender sautéed okra, sweet corn, Cajun spices, and buttery garlic breadcrumbs.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 13- x 9-inch baking dish. Whisk together oil and flour in a Dutch oven; cook over medium-high, whisking, until mixture is golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in onion, celery, bell pepper, and minced garlic, and cook, stirring, until vegetables begin to soften, about 3 minutes.

2. Stir in tomatoes, broth, okra, corn, Cajun seasoning, and pepper, and bring to a boil over medium-high. Reduce heat to medium, and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened, 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, combine melted butter and pressed garlic. Brush both sides of French bread slices with garlic butter, and bake in preheated oven until lightly golden, about 3 minutes per side. Remove from oven, and process in a food processor until coarsely crumbled.

4. Squeeze rice pouches to separate grains. Tear a 2-inch vent in each pouch. Microwave both pouches at the same time at HIGH for 2 minutes. (The rice will be slightly undercooked.) Spoon into prepared baking dish. Top with okra mixture and breadcrumbs.

5. Bake in preheated oven until breadcrumbs are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

OKRA

These green pods are delicious deep-fried, but they are more versatile than you might think.

SHOP SMART: The smaller pods are the most tender, so look for ones 3 to 4 inches long. Refrigerate and cook within a few days.

EASY PREP: Okra “slime” (called mucilage) naturally thickens soups and stews. This substance is released as you cut the pods, so we suggest cutting them into larger chunks, rather than thin slices.

This impressive-looking casserole bakes up puffy and golden with pockets of fresh corn and savory ham. Think of it as a soufflé without the work.

2. Melt butter in a Dutch oven over medium; stir in onion and garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, 2 minutes. Stir in water and salt, increase heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Whisk in grits, and stir in ham; return to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, whisking occasionally, until thickened and grits are almost tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat; add both cheeses, stirring until completely melted. Stir in milk, corn, thyme, pepper, and eggs. Spoon mixture into prepared baking dish.

3. Bake in preheated oven until golden and cooked through, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Let stand 15 minutes before serving.

GRITS

Made from ground dried corn, this pantry staple is a delicious addition to your breakfast, lunch, or dinner menu.

SHOP SMART: Look for “stone-ground” for the most toothsome texture—but prepare for a long cooking time. Quick grits will cook in about half the time but have less flavor and texture because they are more processed.

STORE WISELY: Stone-ground grits are perishable, so keep them in the refrigerator or freezer for maximum freshness.

Removing a chicken’s backbone—called spatchcocking (or butterflying)—ensures juicy meat and golden crisp skin in less time than roasting a whole bird.

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Rinse chicken, and pat dry. Place chicken, breast side down, on a cutting board. Using poultry shears, cut along both sides of backbone, and remove backbone. (Discard or reserve for stock.) Turn chicken breast side up, and open the underside of chicken like a book. Using the heel of your hand, press firmly against breastbone until it cracks. Place chicken in a large rimmed baking pan. Tuck wing tips under chicken so they don’t burn.

2. Combine garlic and salt on a cutting board. Using the flat edge of a knife, mash into a paste. Combine garlic paste, butter, thyme, zest, and pepper in a bowl. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the garlic mixture. Rub remaining garlic mixture under skin of chicken breasts and thighs.

3. Bake chicken in preheated oven 10 minutes. Remove pan from oven. Reduce heat to 400°F. Arrange potatoes and carrots around chicken; return to oven, and bake 20 minutes. Arrange Brussels sprouts around chicken, and spread remaining 2 tablespoons garlic mixture on breasts; return to oven, and bake until a meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion registers 165°F, about 20 minutes. Drizzle with lemon juice, and let stand 10 minutes. Carve chicken, and serve with pan juices.

SOUNDS FUNNY BUT THIS SERIOUS TECHNIQUE WILL HELP ROAST A CHICKEN FASTER AND MORE EVENLY

2 Starting at the thigh end, cut along one side of the backbone with kitchen shears. Repeat on the other side to remove the backbone. Freeze and reserve for stock.

3 Flip the chicken over so that it’s cut-side down. Then firmly press on the breastbone with your hands to flatten it.

“Sometimes a layer cake’s filling can leak over the sides. To keep it contained, pipe icing around the top edge of the bottom cake layer. Spread the filling inside your icing; then add the top layer, and frost the entire cake.”

Want to win at weeknight meals? Stock up on a stack of freezer-friendly casseroles with this simple storage trick.

1. Line baking dish with aluminum foil, leaving enough excess foil on all sides to cover the entire pan.

2. Prepare casserole in the dish, and bake as normal. Let cool. Wrap casserole with excess foil; freeze.

3. Once frozen solid, remove foil-wrapped casserole from pan; put back in freezer. Tip: Label it so you know what’s inside (and date it).

IN HER NEW COLUMN, ATLANTA-BASED CHEF AND COOKBOOK AUTHOR VIRGINIA WILLIS SHARES HER FAVORITE WAYS TO USE PEAK-OF-SEASON SOUTHERN INGREDIENTS

FRESH FIGS ARE THE TENNESSEE WILLIAMS play of Southern fruit, prized for their undercurrent of sensuality. When ripe, these luscious fruits burst to reveal sweet, crimson flesh. It’s enough to make you reach for your smelling salts.

My family did not grow figs on our property; however, my grandmother’s neighbor had a giant, sweeping fig tree to the side of her front porch. Miz Jackson (as she was called by my grandmother despite the fact that they’d been dear friends for 50 years) would phone and say the figs were ripe. With promptly issued baskets neatly lined with paper towels, my grandfather and I would drive down the road that very afternoon to harvest the goodness.

The real attraction of this fruit is its preciousness. Ripe figs won’t keep, and they are only in season for a few short weeks in late summer and early fall. Classic recipes for preserving include fig jam and preserves, both often made with citrus to counter their sweetness. My grandmother would add thinly sliced lemons so that as they cooked with the figs they would candy, becoming translucent wagon wheels.

While I do love “putting up” the fruit for later, there is little that is as straightforward and pleasurable as a perfectly ripe fig. If eaten in any way other than out of hand, a fig’s honeyed sweetness is best accented with salt or acidity for balance. Figs pair wonderfully with cheese, ham, and crisp, bitter greens such as arugula and baby kale. Like a real Southern beauty, these tantalizing delicacies need little to no embellishment to shine.

1. Place the kale in a large bowl. Set aside. Heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add bacon, and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 6 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, and drain on paper towels, reserving 1 teaspoon drippings in skillet.

2. Increase the heat to high, and place the figs, cut side down, in the skillet. Cook until just seared, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove figs to a plate, and cover to keep warm. Reduce heat to medium-low.

3. Add shallots and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to skillet. Cook over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until softened, 2 minutes. Add ginger, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 1 minute. Add pecans, and cook, stirring often, until pecans are lightly toasted, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar, salt, pepper, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil.

4. Pour the warm pecan mixture over the greens, scraping all the bits from the pan, and toss gently to coat. Top with the warm figs, blue cheese, and bacon. Serve immediately.

Feel free to use ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract in place of vanilla bean seeds.

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Place the butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet or ovenproof stainless-steel skillet, and place in preheating oven to melt the butter and heat the skillet.

2. Meanwhile, split vanilla bean pod, and scrape seeds into a small bowl. (Reserve pod for another use.) Add milk, eggs, and salt, whisking until smooth. Place flour in a medium bowl; slowly add milk mixture to flour, whisking until smooth. Remove the hot skillet from the oven. Add the melted butter to the batter, and whisk to combine. Quickly place the figs, cut side up, in the skillet, and pour the batter over the figs. Bake until puffed and brown, 25 to 30 minutes.

3. Remove from oven, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Cut into 4 wedges, and serve immediately.

Trim the stem end of 24 fresh figs. Quarter the figs, but don’t cut all the way through the bottom. Gently separate pieces of fig, leaving bottom connected. Fill the center of each fig with about ½ teaspoon crumbled goat cheese or blue cheese. (If the fig is large, simply cut it in half.) Wrap each stuffed fig with 1 (¾-inch-wide) thin strip of country ham, securing the ham with a wooden pick. Serve immediately, or, if desired, warm in a 350˚F oven until the figs are heated through and the cheese has softened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Browned butter adds a subtle nutty flavor to the crust, and the filling gets a sweet makeover from two types of apples, rich brown sugar, and just the right amount of warming spices.

APPLE PICKING

For the best flavor and texture, mix it up: We chose Granny Smith for tartness and Honeycrisp for sweetness.

1. Prepare the Brown Butter Crust: Line a small bowl with aluminum foil. Melt 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter in a small heavy saucepan over medium, and cook, stirring constantly, until butter begins to turn golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove pan from heat, and immediately pour butter into prepared bowl. Freeze until butter is cool and begins to solidify, about 1 hour. Lift foil from bowl; remove butter from the foil, and cut it into small pieces.

2. Pulse 3 cups flour and 1½ teaspoons salt in a food processor until combined, 3 to 4 times. Add browned butter pieces, and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir together 1 egg and 1 tablespoon ice-cold water. With processor running, gradually add egg mixture and up to 5 tablespoons ice-cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and process until dough begins to come together. Turn dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead 3 to 4 times. Divide dough in half. Shape each half into a ball; flatten each ball into a disk, and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Chill 30 minutes or up to 2 days.

3. Prepare the Apple Filling: Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium. Add apples, and cook, gently stirring, until apples are just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Spread apples on a rimmed baking sheet, and cool 30 minutes. Toss together apples, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, 1 tablespoon flour, and ½ teaspoon salt in a large bowl.

4. Preheat oven to 425°F. Unwrap 1 dough disk, and place on a lightly floured surface. Roll to ⅛-inch thickness. Fit dough into a lightly greased 9-inch deep-dish pie plate or pie pan. Spoon apple mixture into piecrust, spreading and pressing into an even layer. Chop remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and sprinkle over filling.

5. Repeat rolling procedure with remaining dough disk; cut dough into about 8 (1-inch-wide) strips. (See step-by-step guide on the following pages.) Arrange about half of the piecrust strips vertically over the filling (Step 1). Fold down every other strip, and place 1 strip horizontally across the top of the pie (Step 2). Unfold the folded strips, and fold up the remaining strips. Lay another strip horizontally across the pie (Step 3). Continue weaving the remaining strips to form a lattice. Trim excess dough from pie plate, and crimp the edges of the pie (Step 4). Whisk together cream and 1 egg. Brush entire pie with egg mixture. Sprinkle with granulated sugar. Freeze 30 minutes or until dough is firm. Place pie on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet.

6. Bake on lower oven rack of preheated oven 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F, and bake 40 to 45 minutes, shielding pie with foil to prevent overbrowning after 20 minutes, if needed, until crust is golden and filling is bubbly. Remove from baking sheet to a wire rack; cool at least 1 hour before serving. Serve with ice cream, if desired.

MAKE A LATTICE PIE CRUST

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Microwave 4 oz. processed cheese (such as Velveeta) in a microwave-safe bowl at HIGH until melted, about 1 minute, stirring after 30 seconds. Whisk in ¼ cup whole milk, 3 Tbsp. diced pimientos, well drained, ½ tsp. paprika, and ½ tsp. black pepper. Serve immediately.

1. Stir together 1¼ cups warm water and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Sprinkle yeast over mixture, and let stand 5 minutes. Fit mixer with paddle attachment. Add flours, 1 tablespoon of the salt, and 1 egg to yeast mixture, and beat at low speed, about 30 seconds. Replace paddle with dough hook, and beat on medium speed until dough is smooth and has pulled away from the bowl, 5 minutes.

2. Transfer dough to a lightly greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 1 hour.

3. Preheat oven to 450°F. Lightly grease 2 wire racks, placing each in a rimmed baking sheet. Bring 10 cups of the water to a boil.

4. Meanwhile, turn dough out onto a lightly greased surface; roll out to a 12- x 8-inch (about ¾-inch-thick) rectangle. Cut into 8 (12-inch-long) strips; cut each strip into 4 pieces.

5. To shape the pretzels, form 1 strip into a “U” with the ends of the strip pointing up (fig. A, step-by-step guide on the following pages). Fold one end down, making a small loop (fig. B). Fold the other end down, making a second small loop (fig. C). Press the dough in place to secure. Repeat with remaining dough.

6. Add baking soda to water; stir to dissolve. Add 3 to 4 pretzels and cook 3 minutes, turning occasionally. Transfer to pans. Repeat with remaining pretzels.

7. Let pretzels rest until moisture evaporates, 15 minutes. Whisk together remaining egg and water. Brush egg wash over tops of pretzels, and sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons salt.

8. Bake until tops are golden, 7 to 10 minutes, rotating pans from top to bottom rack about halfway through bake time. Turn pretzels over and bake until tops are golden, 3 to 5 minutes.

Whisk together ½ cup Dijon mustard, 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise, 1 Tbsp. honey, and 1 tsp. Creole seasoning until smooth. Chill until ready to serve.

Whisk together ½ cup buttermilk, ¼ cup each sour cream and mayonnaise, and 2 Tbsp. each cider vinegar, finely chopped dill, and finely chopped chives. Chill until ready to serve.

HOW TO SHAPE A PRETZEL

CREATE A CLASSIC TWIST IN 3 EASY STEPS

fig. A

fig. B

fig. C

THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE HERE: FROM A GOOEY, CHEWY CLASSIC CHOCOLATE CHIP TO A SURPRISING HUMMINGBIRD CAKE-INSPIRED TREAT

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Lightly coat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with cooking spray. Beat brown sugar, granulated sugar, and butter with a heavy-duty electric stand mixer at medium speed until light and fluffy. Add egg, milk, and vanilla, beating until blended.

2. Whisk together flour, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Add to butter mixture gradually, beating at low speed until combined.

4. Spread mixture evenly in prepared skillet. Top with remaining ½ cup chocolate chips.

5. Bake in preheated oven until golden and set, about 50 minutes. Let stand 15 minutes; cut into wedges. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

START WITH OUR CLASSIC CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE RECIPE, AND THEN GET CREATIVE WITH FUN, FLAVORFUL MIX-INS

Omit chocolate chips. Prepare recipe as directed, stirring in ½ cup chopped pecans and ½ cup toffee bits in Step 3, and topping mixture with ¾ cup pecan halves and 3 tablespoons jarred caramel sauce in Step 4. Sprinkle with sea salt just before serving.

Increase milk to 5 tablespoons. Prepare recipe as directed, whisking 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa into flour mixture in Step 2, and topping cookie with ¼ cup miniature marshmallows during the last 30 minutes of baking in Step 5.

Increase milk to ¼ cup. Substitute white chocolate chips for semisweet chocolate chips. Prepare recipe as directed, beating ¾ cup chopped frozen pound cake into mixture with white chocolate chips in Step 3. Top mixture with ¼ cup chopped frozen pound cake in Step 4. Serve cookie wedges with whipped cream and sliced strawberries.

Omit milk and chocolate chips. Prepare recipe as directed, beating 3 tablespoons bourbon into mixture with egg and vanilla in Step 1, and stirring in 1 cup halved thin crème de menthe chocolate mints in Step 3. Top mixture with ¼ cup halved thin crème de menthe chocolate mints in Step 4.

Omit milk and vanilla extract. Substitute white chocolate chips for semisweet chocolate chips. Prepare recipe as directed, adding ¼ cup mashed banana and 1½ teaspoons coconut extract to butter mixture in Step 1 and ½ cup sweetened flaked coconut and ½ cup chopped dried pineapple in Step 3.