Lake Geneva & Vaud


   History
   LAUSANNE
   AROUND LAUSANNE
   SWISS RIVIERA
   VEVEY
   AROUND VEVEY
   LAVAUX WINE REGION
   MONTREUX & AROUND
   NORTHWESTERN VAUD
   YVERDON-LES-BAINS
   AROUND YVERDON-LES-BAINS
   TO LAC DE JOUX
   ALPES VAUDOISES
   AIGLE
   LEYSIN
   LES DIABLERETS
   VILLARS & GRYON
   PAYS D’ENHAUT


East of Geneva, Western Europe’s biggest lake stretches like a giant liquid mirror between French-speaking Canton de Vaud (pronounced Voh; Waadt in German) on its northern shore and France to the south.

Known to most as Lake Geneva, to Francophones (except some in Geneva!) it is Lac Léman. Lined by the elegant city of Lausanne and a phalanx of pretty smaller towns, the Swiss side of the lake presents the marvellous emerald spectacle of tightly ranked vineyards spreading in terraces up the steep hillsides of the Lavaux area. These grapes and those grown to the west of Lausanne produce some fine tipples and it is possible to visit some caveaux (cellars). Modest beaches, often backed by peaceful woodland, dot the lake, and around Montreux the climate is mild enough for palm trees to thrive.

Jutting out over the waters of the lake near Montreux is the fairy-tale Château de Chillon, the first of many that await exploration a short way inland.

Lake-lovers can head north to Yverdon-les-Bains, which sits on the southern tip of Lac de Neuchâtel and offers the chance to relax in tempting thermal baths.

At its southeast corner, the canton rises into the magnificent mountain country of the Alpes Vaudoises (Vaud Alps), a hikers’ paradise in spring and summer, and skiers’ haven in winter. Those addicted to the white stuff can even indulge in moderate summer skiing across the impressive Les Diablerets glacier.

In July, music rocks the lake with Montreux’ international jazz get-together and Nyon’s multifaceted Paléo music fest.


Return to beginning of chapter

History

As early as 58 BC, Caesar’s troops had penetrated what is now southwest Switzerland. In the succeeding centuries a mix of Celtic tribes and Romans rubbed along in peace and prosperity. Aventicum (today Avenches) became the capital, with as many as 20,000 inhabitants, and numerous other towns (such as Lausanne) flourished.

By the 4th century AD, the Romans had largely pulled out of Switzerland and Germanic tribes stepped into the vacuum. Christianised Burgundians arrived in the southwest in the 5th century and picked up the Vulgar Latin tongue that was the precursor to French. Absorbed by the Franks, in 1032 Vaud became part of the Holy Roman Empire.

In the 12th and 13th centuries the Dukes of Savoy slowly assumed control of Vaud and embarked on the construction of impressive lakeside castles.

The Canton of Bern appreciatively took over those castles when, in 1536, it declared war on Savoy and seized Vaud. Despite the tendency of Bern’s bailiffs to siphon off local wealth, by the 18th century Lausanne (the area’s capital) was a thriving centre.

The French Revolution in 1789 had heavy consequences for its neighbours. On the urging of Fréderic-César de la Harpe, leader of the Liberal Party, the Directorate in Paris placed Vaud under its protection in December 1797. In 1803, Napoleon imposed the Act of Mediation that created the Swiss Confederation, in which Vaud, with Lausanne as its capital, became one of six separate cantons.

The second half of the 19th century was one of industrial development and comparative prosperity for the canton, later slowed by the turbulence of the two world wars.

Orientation & Information

Vaud straddles the three main geographical regions of Switzerland: the Jura mountains in the west, the relatively flat plain of the Plateau Central (Mittelland), and a smidgen of the Alps in the southeast.

Along its northern flank it is bordered by the Neuchâtel and Fribourg cantons. To the south lies France (briefly interrupted by the frontier with Geneva canton) and to the southeast Valais, while to the east the German part of the country starts with the canton of Bern.

The Canton de Vaud tourist office (Map; 021 613 26 26; www.lake-geneva-region.ch; Ave d’Ouchy 60, 1006, Ouchy, Lausanne; 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) provides hiking- and cycling-route brochures.

For information on Avenches and Payerne, which are part of Vaud, Click here.

In addition to the normal Swiss national holidays, the people of Vaud also take off St Basil’s Day (2 January) and the Federal Day of Fasting (Lundi du JeÛne) on the third Monday in September.

Getting Around

The Regional Pass (7-day pass 1st/2nd class Sfr164/114) provides free bus and train travel throughout the canton three days in seven, and half-price travel on the other four days. It also gives 50% off CGN boat services as well as 25% off some cable cars (eg up to Les Diablerets glacier). There is a five-day version with two days of free travel (1st/2nd class Sfr136/94). Holders of one of the various Swiss rail passes (Click here) receive a 20% discount off the Regional Pass.


Return to beginning of chapter

LAUSANNE

pop 119,180 / elevation 495m

This hilly city (loh-san), Switzerland’s fifth largest, enjoys a blessed lakeside location. The medieval centre is dominated by a grand Gothic cathedral and, among the museums, the unusual Art Brut collection stands out, while sports fans will love the Musée Olympique. Throughout the year Lausanne’s citizens are treated to a busy arts calendar. Strolling along the lake is itself a pure pleasure.

History

The Romans first set up camp on the lake at Vidy, a key halt on the route from Italy to Gaul that came to be known as Lousonna. In the face of an invasion by the Alemanni in the 4th century AD, Lousonna’s inhabitants fled to the hilly inland site that became the heart of medieval Lausanne.

In 1529, Guillaume Farel, one of Calvin’s followers, arrived in town preaching the Reformation but it wasn’t until Bern occupied the city (not a shot was fired) seven years later that the Catholics were obliged to take notice.

From the 18th century, Lausanne exerted a fascination over writers and free-thinkers, attracting such characters as Voltaire, Dickens, Byron and TS Eliot (who wrote The Waste Land here).

Lausanne, with only 10,000 inhabitants, became capital of the Vaud canton in 1803. The city began to take on its present appearance with rapid development occurring from the latter half of the 19th century.

Today, Lausanne is a busy, vibrant city. And it competes with nearby Geneva as a cosmopolitan centre. If 43% of the latter’s population have been foreigners since 1990, their number in Lausanne has risen from 28% to 39% in the same period.

Home to the Federal Tribunal, the highest court in the country, the International Olympic Committee (IOC), a high-flying international business school (IMD), Tetra Pak and the multinational tobacco conglomerate Philip Morris, it also boasts a fairly boisterous wining and dining scene.

Orientation

The Old Town (vieille ville), with its winding, hilly streets topped by the cathedral, is north of the train station. Rue Centrale runs along the valley that separates the vieille ville from another hill topped by Place St François and its church. This square is the main hub for local buses, and off it to the east runs the shopping street of Rue de Bourg. One of thecountry’s top addresses in the 19th century (and on the Swiss version of Monopoly), it lost some of its class with the arrival of fast-food joints and poor renovation. Just west and downhill from Place St François is Flon, an area of formerly derelict warehouses now transformed into a busy urban centre with a cinema complex, art galleries, trendy shops, restaurants and bars. The city long ago enveloped the picturesque lakeside village of Ouchy.

Information

BOOKSHOP

Librairie Payot (Map; 021 341 33 31; Place Pépinet 4) A broad selection of material on Switzerland and books in English; one of the best bookshop chains in French-speaking Switzerland.

INTERNET ACCESS

The city provides free wi-fi hotspots around town: Flon, Place de la Palud, Place St François, Place de la Riponne, Place du Port, Place de la Navigation and Montbenon.

Fragbox (Map; 021 311 89 69; www.fragbox.com; Rue de la Tour 3; per hr Sfr5; 9am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 1.30-11.30pm Sat, 1.30-10pm Sun) High-speed internet.

LAUNDRY

Quick Wash (Map; Blvd de Grancy 44; per load Sfr22; 7.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pm Sat & Sun)

MEDICAL SERVICES

Centre Hospitalier Universitaire Vaudois (CHUV; Map; 021 314 11 11; www.chuv.ch; Rue du Bugnon 46) Lausanne’s main hospital.

MONEY

Banque Cantonale Vaudoise (Map; Place St François 10) Has branches with ATMs all over town.

Exchange office (8am-7pm) In the train station.

POST

Post office (Map; Place St François 15; 7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am Sat) The house in which Edward Gibbon wrote much of The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire once stood on this site.

Post office (Map; Place de la Gare 1; 8.30am-7pm daily) The main one; at the train station.

TOURIST INFORMATION

InfoCité (Map; 021 315 25 55; www.lausanne.ch/infocite; Place de la Palud 2; 7.45am-noon & 1.15-5pm Mon-Fri) Run by city hall; has material on upcoming events in the city.

Lausanne Tourisme tourist office (021 613 73 73; www.lausanne-tourisme.ch; train station; Map; Place de la Gare 9; 9am-7pm; Ouchy; Map; Place de la Navigation 4; 9am-6pm Oct-Mar, to 8pm Apr-Sep)

TRAVEL AGENCIES

STA Travel (Map; 058 450 48 50; Blvd de Grancy 20) The budget travel agency has several branches in the city.

Sights & Activities

CATHEDRAL & AROUND

The Gothic Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Map; 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat & Sun Apr-Aug, 7am-5.30pm Sep-Mar), arguably the finest in Switzerland, stands proudly at the heart of the vieille ville. Raised in the 12th and 13th centuries on the site of earlier, humbler churches, it lacks the lightness of French Gothic buildings but is remarkable nonetheless. Pope Gregory X, in the presence of Rudolph of Habsburg (the Holy Roman Emperor) and an impressive following of European cardinals and bishops, consecrated the church in 1275.

Although touched-up in parts in succeeding centuries (notably the main facade, which was added to the original to protect the interior against ferocious winds), the building is largely as it was. The most striking element is the elaborate entrance on the south flank of the church (which, unusually for Christian churches, was long the main way in). The painted statuary, partially restored and protected by glass, depicts Christ in splendour, the coronation of the Virgin Mary, the Apostles and other Bible scenes.

Inside, the 13th-century rose window in the south transept contains unusual geometric patterns comprising images relating to the seasons, signs of the Zodiac and the elements.

Just opposite the south flank of the cathedral are two minor museums. The Musée Historique de Lausanne (Map; 021 315 41 01; www.lausanne.ch/mhl; Place de la Cathédrale 4; adult/student Sfr8/free; 11am-6pm Tue-Thu, to 5pm Fri-Sun Sep-Jun, to 6pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri-Sun Jul & Aug) traces the city’s history, and the Musée de Design et d’Arts Appliqués Contemporains (Map; 021 315 25 30; www.mudac.ch; Place de la Cathédrale 6; adult/child/student Sfr10/free/5; 11am-6pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun, to 6pm daily Jul & Aug) is a centre of modern design that frequently holds intriguing temporary exhibitions. Entry to both museums is free on the first Saturday of the month. A combined ticket for both costs Sfr15/free/8 (adult/child/student).

OLD TOWN (VIEILLE VILLE)

About 200m north of the Cathédrale stands the haughty, turreted Château St Maire (Map). This 15th-century castle was once the residence of the bishops of Lausanne and now houses government offices. In the streets between the cathedral and castle are several tempting eateries.

In front of the main entrance to the cathedral, a covered timber stairway leads down to Rue Pierre Viret, from where two more stairways lead further downhill, one to the modern Place de la Riponne and the other to medieval Place de la Palud (Map). The latter’s name suggests that this 9th-century market square was originally bogland. For five centuries it has been home to the city government, now housed in the 17th-century Hôtel de Ville (town hall; Map). The column with the allegorical figure of Justice that presides over the fountain dates from 1585, or rather it pretends to – the original is actually in the Musée Historique de Lausanne.

Rue du Pont descends from the eastern end of Place de la Palud to Rue Centrale, which you cross to climb Rue St François up to the square of the same name. The name comes from the church, Église de St François (Map), which today is a bit of a hybrid but in the beginning formed part of a 13th- century Franciscan monastery. You can admire some restored frescos inside. It is hard to imagine that the church and monastery once stood amid peaceful green fields!

About 200m west of Place de la Riponne stands the only surviving vestige of medieval Lausanne’s defensive walls. The cylindrical Tour de l’Ale (Map), tucked away at the end of Rue de la Tour, was built in 1340 at the extreme western point of the medieval suburb of Ale. That we can admire the tower at all is due to those townspeople who opposed demolition plans in 1903.

MUSéE DE L’ART BRUT

This extraordinary collection (Map; 021 315 25 70; www.artbrut.ch; Ave des Bergières 11-13; adult/child/student & senior Sfr10/free/5, free 1st Sat of month; 11am-6pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun, to 6pm Jul & Aug), put together by French artist Jean Dubuffet, opened in 1976 in what was a late 18th-century country mansion.

Brut means crude or rough, and that’s what you get. None of the artists had training but all had something to express. A few were quite mad, many (justly or otherwise) spent time in mental asylums or were plain eccentric. Their works offer a striking variety, and at times surprising technical capacity and an often inspirational view of the world.

There are sculptures made out of broken plates and discarded rags, faces made out of shells, sculptures in wood, paintings, sketches and much more. To get there, take bus 2 or 3 to the Beaulieu stop.

PALAIS DE RUMINE

This neo-Renaissance pile was built to lord it over Place de la Riponne in 1904 and, aside from the parliament of the Vaud canton, is home to several museums. This is where the Treaty of Lausanne was signed in 1923, finalising the break-up of the Ottoman Empire after WWI.

The main museum is the Musée Cantonal des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum; Map; 021 316 34 45; www.beaux-arts.vd.ch; Place de la Riponne 6; adult/child/senior & student Sfr10/free/8, 1st Sat of the month free; 11am-5pm Fri-Sun, to 6pm Tue-Wed, to 8pm Thu), with many works by Swiss and foreign artists, ranging from Ancient Egypt to Cubism. The core of the collection is made up of works by landscape painter, Louis Ducros (1748–1810), and three other locals. The permanent collection is closed during the frequent temporary exhibitions. It is mooted that the collection will be moved to a new lakeside location in the coming years.

The other museum collections (admission to each adult/child/senior & student Sfr6/free/4, 1st Sat of the month free; 11am-6pm Tue-Thu, to 5pm Fri-Sun) in the building cover natural history, zoology (with the longest – almost 6m – stuffed great white shark on show in the world), geology, coins, archaeology and history. The latter gives an overview of the history of the Vaud canton from the Old Stone Age to modern times. Tickets for any one of these museums are then valid for entry into the remaining three.

MUSéE OLYMPIQUE & AROUND

This museum (Map; 021 621 65 11; www.museum.olympic.org; Quai d’Ouchy 1; adult/child/student & senior Sfr15/free/10; 9am-6pm daily Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) is surprisingly interesting given that its subject does not elicit universal interest. Housed in a lavish building in the Parc Olympique, atop a tiered landscaped garden, it tells the Olympic story from its inception under Pierre de Coubertin to the most recent competition. Videos, archival film (usually including footage of the most recent games), touch-screen computers and memorabilia (anything from the Olympic flame torches used since 1936 to a pair of sprinter Carl Lewis’ track shoes) all help bring this sporting saga to life.

The Musée de l’Elysée (Map; 021 316 99 11; www.elysee.ch; Ave de l’Elysée 18; adult/child/student/senior Sfr8/free/4/6, free 1st Sat of month; 11am-6pm) is worth keeping an eye on if you like photography. It stages temporary expositions that are often excellent.

THE LAKE

Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) provides plenty of sporting opportunities. Contact the sailing school (école de voile; 021 635 58 87; www.ecole-de-voile.ch; Chemin des Pêcheurs 7) at Ouchy for courses on windsurfing, water-skiing and sailing, and equipment rental for these activities. You can also rent pedalos (Sfr20 per hour) andmotorboats (Sfr45 to Sfr50 per hour) at stands in front of the Château d’Ouchy.

CGN (Click here) offers a range of boat cruises.

In summer, head for the beach! The one at Vidy is one of the nicer beaches, backed by thick woods and parklands. Locals can be seen cycling, rollerblading (in-line skating) or just strolling along the waterfront on sunny weekends. Check out the remains of Roman Lousonna and the adjacent Musée Romain Lausanne-Vidy (021 315 41 85; www.lausanne.ch/mrv; Chemin du Bois de Vaux 24; adult/child/student Sfr8/free/5, free 1st Sat of the month; 11am-6pm Tue-Sun), housed on the site of a Roman villa and containing a modest collection of ancient artefacts.

BOIS DE SAUVABELIN

Lausanne is remarkably blessed with green spaces. Much of the lakeside is lined with thick woodland and spacious picnic areas. To the north stretches the bucolic expanse of the Bois de Sauvabelin (Map). This peaceful park is also home to the Fondation de l’Hermitage (Map; 021 312 50 13; www.fondation-hermitage.ch; Rte du Signal 2; adult/child/student/senior Sfr15/free/7/12; 10am-6pm Tue-Wed, to 6pm Fri-Sun & hols, to 8pm Thu). This charming 19th-century residence constantly hosts high-calibre temporary art expositions. Take bus 16 from Place St François.

Tours

A guided walking tour (021 321 77 66; adult/student & child/senior Sfr10/free/5; 10am & 2.30pm Mon-Sat May-Sep) of the vieille ville, lasting one to two hours and usually in French, leaves from the front of the Hôtel de Ville twice a day in spring and summer. From July to mid-September there are free guided visits of Cathédrale de Notre Dame four times a day, Monday to Saturday. Book a spot at least four days in advance.

Festivals & Events

In the first week of July the city hums with performances all over town in the week-long Festival de la Cité (www.festivalcite.ch).

For Switzerland’s national day on 1 August, hire a pedalo (Click here) in the early evening and be ready on the lake for fireworks around 10pm.

The Lausanne Marathon (www.lausanne-marathon.com) is run towards the end of October.

Sleeping

In most hotels you will pay a one-off tourist tax of Sfr2.50 per person. In exchange, you’ll be offered the Lausanne Transport Card, which entitles you to unlimited use of public transport.

BUDGET

Camping de Vidy (021 622 50 00; www.campinglausannevidy.ch; Chemin du Camping 3; campsites per adult Sfr7.50, per tent Sfr10-18, per car Sfr3.50; year-round) This camping ground is just to the west of the Vidy sports complex, on the lake. Take bus 2 from Place St François and get off at Bois de Vaux then walk underneath the freeway towards the lake. Throw a few francs on top for electricity, rubbish collection and local tourist tax.

Lausanne GuestHouse (Map; 021 601 80 00; www.lausanne-guesthouse.ch; Chemin des Épinettes 4; dm Sfr33-38, s/d Sfr94/115, without bathroom Sfr85/95; reception 7.30am-noon & 3-10pm; ) An attractive mansion converted into quality backpacking accommodation near the train station. Many rooms have lake views and you can hang out in the garden or terrace. Parking is Sfr10 and there’s room to leave your bikes. Some of the building’s energy is solar.

Hôtel du Marché (Map; 021 647 99 00; www.hoteldumarche-lausanne.ch; Rue Pré du Marché 42; s/d Sfr100/130, without bathroom Sfr70/110) For no-frills rooms in a pleasant-enough location, this is a good option. Rooms are kept nice and clean and there’s a little terrace out the back.

MIDRANGE

The following hotels offer free wi-fi.

Hôtel Elite (Map; 021 320 23 61; www.elite-lausanne.ch; Ave Sainte Luce 1; s/d Sfr175/225; ) A central family-run hotel set in quiet grounds (dotted with sun loungers) with good-sized, comfortable (if a little dated) rooms, decorated in subtle colours and equipped with cable TV. Some have a shower, others a full bath. Those with balcony enjoy pleasant views across the city. Some have lake views (Sfr30 extra).

Hôtel du Port (Map; 021 612 04 44; www.hotel-du-port.ch; Place du Port 5; s/d Sfr180/230;) A perfect location in Ouchy, just back from the lake, makes this a good choice. The better doubles look out across the lake (Sfr20 extra) and are spacious (about 20 sq metres). Up on the 3rd floor are some lovely junior suites.

Hôtel des Voyageurs (Map; 021 319 91 11; www.voyageurs.ch; Rue Grand St Jean 19; s/d Sfr200/250; ) A handily located lodging for the historic centre of Lausanne, this hotel has 33 comfortable if plain rooms. Prices can fluctuate considerably, dropping as low as Sfr120/160 in slow periods.

TOP END

Hôtel Beau-Rivage Palace (Map; 021 613 33 33; www.beau-rivage-palace.ch; Place du Port 17-19; s/d Sfr450/520; ) Easily the mosts tunningly located hotel in town and one of only two five-star options, this place has it all. A beautifully maintained, early 19th-century mansion set in immaculate grounds, the hotel offers rooms with magnificent lake and Alp views, a wellness centre, three restaurants with terraces and two bars.

Eating

Café Romand (Map; 021 312 63 75; Place St François 2; mains Sfr18-28.50; 11am-11pm Mon-Sat) A tatty sign leads you into an equally unpromising looking arcade. A few steps in and a push of the door takes you out of the 21st century and back to another era. The broad, somewhat sombre dining area littered with timber tables attracts everyone from bankers to punks for traditional food, ranging from fine fondue to cervelle au beurre noir (brains in black butter). The kitchen operates all day, rare for this town.

Café de Grancy (Map; 021 616 86 66; www.cafédegrancy.ch; Ave du Rond Point 1; mains Sfr18-35; 8am-midnight Mon & Wed-Thu, 8am-1am Fri, 10am-1am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun) An old-time bar resurrected with flair by young entrepreneurs, this spot has established itself as a hip hang-out with floppy lounges in the front, wi-fi, and a tempting restaurant out back. Brunch is offered on Saturday and Sunday (10am to 3pm).

Café du Vieil Ouchy (Map; 021 616 21 94; Place du Port 3, Ouchy; mains Sfr18.50-38.50; Thu-Mon) A simple but charming location for fondue (Sfr23.50), rösti and other classics. Follow up with a meringue smothered in crème double de la Gruyère (double thick Gruyère cream).

Le Jardin Thaï (Map; 021 555 59 99; Rue du Petit-Chêne 34; mains Sfr20-39; daily) With palms spreading overhead, low lights and rapid service, this is one of the better-value Thai eateries in town. There’s a broad choice of rice, noodle, vegetarian, fish and meat options. The curry de crevettes vertes au lait de coco (green prawn curry in coconut milk) is good for those who don’t like it hot. This hotel restaurant has La Palmeraie (same details) as its bed mate, a good spot for Swiss cooking and mussels.

Café-Restaurant du Vieux Lausanne (Map; 021 323 53 90; Rue Pierre Viret 6; mains Sfr25-42; lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner Sat) An old stalwart, where good French and Swiss cooking comes in generous portions. Meat is the central theme, with dishes like tartare de boeuf (Sfr32) starring. In summer, sit beneath the narrow pergola.

Le Vaudois (Map; 021 331 22 22; www.levaudois.ch; Place de la Riponne 1; mains Sfr20-44; kitchen nonstop 11.30am-11.15pm daily) Classic local Swiss cuisine, concentrating on fondues and meat dishes like the nationwide fave, Zürich’s émincé de veau à la zurichoise (thin slices of veal prepared in a creamy mushroom sauce, Sfr32.50).

Ichi-Ban (Map; 021 601 31 68; www.ichi-ban.ch; Ave d’Ouchy 58; mains Sfr35-45; Tue-Sun) Check out the most stylish and innovative of Lausanne’s half-dozen or so Japanese eateries. Run by a George Clooney lookalike, this place offers especially good meat dishes (request how you want it cooked), fabulous sashimi and delicious futto maki (with seven ingredients mixed in, including avocado, shrimp and tuna).

La Pomme de Pin (Map; 021 323 46 56; Rue Cité-Derrière 11; mains Sfr40-56; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat) Search out this beacon of French cuisine in the web of alleys in the medieval old town. During WWII, Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin ate here. The place is divided into bistrot and gastro, the latter a fancy restaurant setting. Local fish is a permanent fixture on a menu that is otherwise largely determined by seasonal goods.

Café Les Alliés (Map; 021 648 69 40; www.lesallies.ch; Rue de la Pontaise 48; mains Sfr22-44; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri; ) It doesn’t look like much on the outside but inside a cosy, warm restaurant with creaky timber floors winds out back towards a pleasant summer garden. At the front is the café. Some imaginative salads precede mains like steak de veau poêlé au jus d’abricots (pan-cooked steak in apricot sauce).

Drinking

XIIIeme Siècle (Map; 021 312 40 64; Rue Cité-Devant 10; 10pm-4am Tue-Sat) In a grand medieval setting with stone vaults and huge timber beams, this is a great place for a beer or six.

Giraf Bar (Map; 021 323 53 90; Escaliers du Marché; 8.30pm-1am Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) This tiny, smoke-filled bar fills up on a Friday and Saturday night. The giraffe-skin motif isrepeated inside on lampshades and the music can reach back to the 1980s.

Le Bleu Lézard (Map; 021 321 38 30; www.bleu-lezard.ch; Rue Enning 10; 7am-1am Mon-Thu, 7am-2am Fri, 8am-2am Sat, 9.30am-1am Sun) An oldie but a goodie, this corner bar-eatery with wooden tables and a chatty atmosphere remains a popular meeting place throughout the day and evening. If you feel like a dance, pop downstairs to its club-style section, Cave. This is also a good spot for Sunday brunch and they have wi-fi.

Java (Map; 021 321 38 37; www.lejava.ch; Rue Marterey 36; 7am-midnight Mon-Wed, 7am-1am Thu, 7am-2am Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 11am-midnight Sun) Similar in atmosphere to Le Bleu Lézard, this place spreads over two floors. Up on the first, a separate lounge area is perfect for a quiet one. Wall-length mirrors and thick lounge chairs dominate the decor.

Bar Tabac (Map; 021 312 33 16; Rue Beau-Séjour 7; 7am-9pm Mon-Wed, 7am-1am Thu & Fri, 9am-2am Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) Like a spruced corner tavern of old, this is the kind of thing Hemingway probably had in mind when he spoke of a ‘clean, well lighted place’. Squeaky timber floors lend warmth and punters engage in animated chat at tables around the L-shaped bar.

Café Luna (Map; 021 329 08 46; www.café-luna.ch; Place de l’Europe 7; 11am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu, Fri & Sat) It’s a spacious, modern bar, with angular dark furniture, huge, saucer-like lights hanging from the ceiling and DJs spinning all sorts of sounds from Thursday to Saturday.

Café du Pont (Map; 021 311 41 40; Rue Petit St Jean 7; 11am-2pm & 5pm-1am Tue-Thu, 11am-2pm & 5pm-2am Fri & Sat) This tiny upstairs bar, long a haunt for conspiratorial leftists to engage in long chats about the state of the nation (or the canton), is a curious little hideaway for sipping on Belgian beers.

The Great Escape (Map; 021 312 31 94; www.the-great.ch; Rue de la Madeleine; 11am-1am Sun-Thu, 2.30pm-2am Fri, 4.30pm-2am Sat) Beneath the whopping beams that hold up the roof of what could be a country house is a noisy pub with plenty of beers and ales on tap. At times a sports bar (claiming the best burgers in town), it heaves with an eclectic crew of punters on Friday and Saturday nights.

Entertainment

Lausanne is one of the busier night-time cities in Switzerland. In some bars you will find a handy free listings booklet, What’s Up (www.whatsupmag.ch, in French and German). Tickets for many shows can be bought in advance from Ticketcorner (0900 800 800; www.ticketcorner.ch) or Resaplus (0900 552 333; www.resaplus.ch).

LIVE MUSIC

Le Bourg (Map; 021 625 07 07; www.lebourg.ch; Rue de Bourg 51; 7pm-1am Wed-Thu, 7pm-2am Fri-Sat) What was once an old cinema is now one of central Lausanne’s happening drink dens and live music stages. Squeeze upstairs past the bar for a good view down to the stage area. Music can be anything from Afro sounds to local jam sessions.

Chorus (Map; 021 323 22 33; www.chorus.ch; Ave Mon Repos 3; admission free-Sfr35; 8.30pm-2am Thu-Sat) The appropriately dark and sometimes smoky ambience is perfect for local and international stars at Chorus, one of Lausanne’s top jazz venues.

Le Romandie (Map; 021 311 17 19; www.leromandie.ch; Place de l’Europe 1a; 10pm-4am Tue, Thu-Sat) Lausanne’s premier rock club has taken up residence in this postindustrial location within the great stone arches of the Grand Pont. Expect live rock, garage and even punk, followed by DJ sounds in a similar vein.

Les Docks (Map; 021 623 44 44; www.lesdocks.ch; Ave de Sévelin 34; admission Sfr20-40; 9pm-2am Tue-Sun) This somewhat sombre semi-industrial and office-block zone is home to Les Docks, the tops spot for concerts of all descriptions. From hip-hop to heavy metal, singer-songwriters to reggae, the program can be quite eclectic.

CLUBS

MAD – Moulin à Danse (Map; 021 340 69 69; www.mad.ch; Rue de Genève 23; admission up to Sfr25; 11pm-4am Tue-Sun) With five floors of entertainment, MAD really is a crazy sort of place. Music themes can range from anything to trance to tranquil. Just behind it on Rue de Genève is Zapoff Galleries, a slick designer bar run by the same people. Snappy dressing is required and people under 25 don’t get past the doorman – at least that’s the policy.

Amnésia (021 619 06 50; www.amnesiaclub.ch; Ave E Dalcroze 9; admission Sfr20; 11pm-5am Fri-Sun) This place packs them in down on the lake. Apart from the club proper (with four dance floors) you can limber up in one of three attached bars beforehand and, in summer, get a snack in the restaurant on the beach (both open to 2am, May to October).

D-Club (Map; 021 351 51 40; www.dclub.ch; Place Centrale; admission Sfr10-25; 11pm-5am Wed-Sat) D-Club is a heaving club where local and guest DJs spin funk to house, especially the latter, in all its latest sub-forms. Friday night is electro night and Saturday the place shakes to humping house. To get here take the stairs down from Rue du Grand Pont and turn right before descending all the way into Place Centrale.

Loft Electroclub (Map; 021 311 63 64; www.loftclub.ch; Place de Bel-Air 1; admission up to Sfr20; 1-4am Wed, 11pm-5am Thu-Sat) Loft, a predominantly red bar and dance space just one level down the stairs of the Tour Bel-Air building, is another popular late-night option. DJs occasionally put on R & B nights, while Saturday is electro night.

GAY VENUES

Trixx Club (Map; admission free; 11.30pm-4am Sun) MAD hosts Trixx Club on Sunday night, the big club night for gays and lesbians throughout western Switzerland. Over the five floors is one dedicated to gals and another to guys.

CINEMA

Some of the cinemas around town show original language movies (watch for those marked ‘vo’ in the listings section of 24 Heures).

Cinémathèque Suisse (Map; 021 315 21 70; www.cinematheque.ch; Allée E Ansermet 3, Casino de Montbenon) For classics and film cycles, head for this place, seat of the Swiss film archives and the location of a fine café and restaurant.

THEATRE, OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC

Lausanne has a rich theatre scene for most of the year. Listings appear in the local paper 24 Heures. Otherwise, pick up information on upcoming events at the InfoCité (Click here).

Palais de Beaulieu (Map; 021 643 21 11; www.beaulieu.org; Ave des Bergières 10) This venue stages concerts, operas and ballets. Lausanne has its own chamber orchestra and the renowned Rudra Béjart Ballet company (www.bejart-rudra.ch).

Opéra de Lausanne (Map; 021 310 16 00; www.opera-lausanne.ch; Ave du Théâtre 12) Runs a season rich in events from September to May. Classics of opera alternate with classical music concerts and one-off presentations of world music. Tickets can cost from Sfr15 to Sfr130, depending on the performance and seats.

Shopping

Rue de Bourg is lined with boutiques and jewellery stores. Otherwise, head for Place de la Palud and the surrounding pedestrian streets, where you will find department stores, fashion boutiques, wine and food speciality stores.

La Ferme Vaudoise (Map; 021 351 35 55; Place de la Palud 5) This store sells an interesting array of cheeses, sweets, liqueurs and local farm produce from around Vaud.

Globus (Map; 021 342 90 90; www.globus.ch; Rue du Pont 5) The deli on the ground floor of Globus is full of costly Swiss and foreign goodies.

For grunge clothing and bargains away from the snooty central stores, hunt around the Flon, where you might also want to pop into the art galleries.

On Wednesday and Saturday mornings (6am to 2.30pm), produce markets set up on Rue de Bourg, Place de la Palud and a couple of the other pedestrian streets around the square.

Getting There & Away

BOAT

The company CGN (Map; 084 881 18 48; www.cgn.ch; Quai JP Delamuraz 17) runs boats from Ouchy to destinations around Lake Geneva. There are no car ferries.

Up to 14 boats daily shuttle to and from Evian-les-Bains (France) in July and August (Sfr17.20/29.40 2nd class one-way/return, 40 minutes), dropping to seven to nine boats the rest of the year. You can take less-frequent boats to places like Montreux (Sfr22.20/37.80 one-way/return, 1½ hours) and Geneva (Sfr37.60/64 one-way/return, about 3½ hours). A day pass to go anywhere on the lake costs Sfr49.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Several freeways link Lausanne to Geneva and Yverdon-les-Bains (A1), Martigny (A9) and Bern (A9 then A12). Car-rental companies include Avis (Map; 021 340 72 00; Ave de la Gare 50), Hertz (Map;021 312 53 11; Place du Tunnel 17) and Europcar (Map; 021 319 90 40; Ave Louis Ruchonnet 2). Enzo Location (Map; 084 245 45 45; Ave de Beaulieu 8) offers a deal for Sfr20 a day plus Sfr0.20 per kilometre with a Fiat Panda bearing their logo.

TRAIN

As many as six trains an hour run to/from Geneva (Sfr20.60, 33 to 51 minutes) and up to four to its airport (Sfr25, 42 to 58 minutes). One or two an hour travel to/from Bern (Sfr31, 70 minutes). Up to four trains an hour run to Yverdon-les-Bains (Sfr14.80, 20 to 45 minutes).

Getting Around

Buses and trolley buses service most destinations (Sfr1.90 up to three stops, Sfr3 unlimited stops in central Lausanne for one hour, Sfr8.60 for 24-hour pass in central Lausanne).

The new m2 Métro line connects Ouchy with Gare (train station) and Flon and then heads on across town to Épalinges (Croisettes stop), in the northern suburbs. At Flon, the older m1 line heads west into the suburbs and on to Renens. Prices are the same as for the buses.

Parking in central Lausanne is a headache. In blue zones you can park for free (one-hour limit) with a time disk (Click here). Most white zones are meter parking. Costs vary but can rise to Sfr2 an hour with a two-hour limit. The lower end of Ave des Bains is one of the few streets with some free parking spots.

For a taxi, call 080 081 08 10. A short ride from the train station to a central hotel will cost Sfr12 to Sfr20.

You can ‘hire’ bicycles (which carry advertising) for free from Lausanne Roule (Map; 021 533 01 15; www.lausanneroule.ch; Place de l’Europe 1b) under the arches of Grand Pont in the Flon area. The bikes are available from 7.30am to 9.30pm. You leave a Sfr20 refundable deposit and ID. If you bring it back late, you pay Sfr1 an hour.


Return to beginning of chapter

AROUND LAUSANNE

La Côte

The coast between Lausanne and Geneva (known simply as The Coast) is sprinkled with fantasy castles, imposing palaces and immaculately maintained medieval towns. More than half of the Canton de Vaud’s wine, mostly white, is produced here. The towns along La Côte are on the train route between Lausanne and Geneva and some can be reached by CGN steamers (fares from Lausanne include: Morges Sfr13.60, Rolle Sfr21 and Nyon Sfr28.60).

LAUSANNE TO ROLLE

A pleasant walk west of Lausanne (about 6km from Ouchy) brings you to St Sulpice, a semi-suburban settlement whose jewel is the Romanesque church of the same name by the lake. A handful of restaurants are well placed to alleviate hunger. Take bus 2 from Place St François and change to bus 30 at Bourdonette.

Some 12km west of Lausanne, the first town of importance is the wine-growing centre of Morges. Dominating its port is the squat, four-turreted 13th-century château (021 316 09 90; Place du Port; adult/child/student/senior Sfr7/free/5/6; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri, 1.30-5pm Sat & Sun Sep-Jun), built by the Savoy Duke Louis in 1286 and today housing four museums on mostly martial subjects. Among them, the Musée de la Figurine Historique contains 8000 toy soldiers on parade!

The town hosts the Fête de la Tulipe (tulip festival) from April to mid-May along the lake in Parc de l’Indépendence. The views across the lake to the snowy hulk of Mont Blanc are impressive.

Lovers of exotic hot chocolate, teas and salads with an Asian twist should make a pilgrimage to Café de Balzac (021 811 02 32; www.balzac.ch; Rue de Louis-de-Savoie 37; mains Sfr20-25, hot chocolate Sfr6.20-7.20; 8am-6.30pm Tue-Wed & Fri, 8am-10pm Thu, 9am-5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun), one block back from the lakeside promenade in the heart of the old centre.

Along the 26km stretch to the next major town, Nyon, are: the old village of St Prex, its centuries-old mansions bursting with the colour of creeping ivy and flower boxes, and Rolle, which also boasts a lakeside 13th-century Savoy castle (closed).

NYON TO COPPET

Nyon, of Roman origin but with a partly Celtic name (the ‘on’ comes from dunon, meaning fortified enclosure), is a busy lake town (population 17,615) at whose heart is a glistening-white, five-towered château. The castle was started in the 12th century and modified 400 years later. It houses the town’s Musée Historique (History Museum; 022 363 83 51; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 2-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), whose centrepiece is a collection of locally produced porcelain. Temporary art exhibitions are also held here. Nearby, in what was a 1st-century basilica, the multimedia display of the Musée Romain (022 361 75 91; www.mrn.ch; Rue Maupertuis; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 2-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) lends insight into Nyon’s Roman beginnings as Colonia Iulia Equestris. Nyon also offers a wealth of lakeside dining, from fondue to Thai.

About 2.5km northeast of central Nyon, the sprawling mansion of Château de Prangins houses a branch of the Musée National Suisse (022 994 88 90; www.musee-suisse.com; adult/child/senior & student Sfr7/free/5; 11am-5pm Tue-Sun). The permanent exhibition covers the period from 1730 to 1920 in Swiss history and there are regular temporary exhibitions.

The town’s Paléo Festival (022 365 10 10; www.paleo.ch) is an outdoor international music extravaganza (the biggest in Switzerland) lasting six days in late July. Tickets cost about Sfr50 per day at the venue (cheaper in advance).

Coppet, halfway between Nyon and Geneva, is a tightly packed medieval village with a handful of cosy hotels and restaurants. A short walk uphill is the 18th-century château (022 776 10 28; adult/child/student & senior Sfr4/free/3; 2-6pm Easter-Oct), a rose-coloured stately home that belonged to the wily Jacques Necker, Louis XVI’s banker and finance minister. The pile, sumptuously furnished in Louis XVI style, became home to Necker’s daughter, Madame de Staël, after she was exiled from Paris by Napoleon. In her literary salons here she entertained the likes of Edward Gibbon and Lord Byron.

Lutry & Cully

About 4km east of central Lausanne, Lutry (population 8735) is a captivating village. Founded in the 11th century by French monks, it is perfect for an afternoon wander. The central Église de St Martin et St Clément was built in the early 13th century. A short way north is a modest château. Stroll along the pretty waterfront and, inland, the slightly twee main street, lined with art galleries, antique stores and the occasional bar. On the last weekend of September, the town celebrates the annual wine harvest with parades and tastings.

The Caveau du Singe Vert (Green Monkey Cellar; 021 866 16 26; www.jazzausingevert.ch; Grand Rue 41; admission Sfr25 for concerts) hosts a couple of live gigs a month. Another good place for concerts, especially chanson française (French classics) is Esprit Frappeur (021 793 12 01; www.espritfrappeur.ch; Villa Mégroz, Ave du Grand Pont 20; admission up to Sfr35; 7.30pm-2am Tue-Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun). Bus 9 runs to Lutry from Place St François in Lausanne.

Five kilometres east of Lutry, the wine town of Cully (population 1750) is home to a fine old hotel-restaurant. The Auberge du Raisin (021 799 21 31; www.aubergeduraisin.ch; Place de l’Hôtel de Ville 1; s/d Sfr180/220, apt Sfr380; ) started taking in weary travellers in the 15th century. In the rotisserie you can sit down for a grand meaty meal or local fish (the set menu is Sfr120).


Return to beginning of chapter

SWISS RIVIERA

Stretching east to Villeneuve, the Swiss Riviera rivals its French counterpart as a magnet for the rich and famous. The mild climate encourages palm trees and other subtropical flora to flourish barely an hour’s drive from Alpine ski spots.

Lovers of panoramic train rides, steam trains and the like should inquire in either Vevey or Montreux about the many excursion options available in this area and to the Bernese Oberland.


Return to beginning of chapter

VEVEY

pop 16,950 / elevation 385m

Lakeside Vevey exudes an understated swankiness and is well accustomed to welcoming celebrities, from Jean-Jacques Rousseau to Charlie Chaplin. Chaplin hung about for 25 years until his death in 1977. His former mansion in Corsier, the Manoir de Ban, is destined to become a Chaplin museum in 2010.

Orientation & Information

The hub of the town is Grande Place, 250m to the left of the train station. The tourist office (084 886 84 84; www.montreux-vevey.com; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-noon & 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat mid-Sep–mid-May) is on the square in the former market building.

Sights

The old streets east of Grande Place and the lakeside promenades are worth exploring. Apart from that, the main entertainment comes from several museums.

The Musée Suisse du Jeu (Swiss Games Museum; 021 977 23 00; www.museedujeu.com; Rue du Château 11; adult/under 6yr/6-16yr/student & senior Sfr8/free/2/4; 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) is certainly the most amusing. The games are arranged according to themes – educational, strategic, simulation, skill and chance, and you can play several (explanations are in French). The museum is in the Château de la Tour de Peilz. To get there, take trolley bus 1 to Place du Temple.

Nestlé, with its headquarters located in Vevey since 1814, runs the Alimentarium – Musée de l’Alimentation (Food Museum; 021 924 41 11; www.alimentarium.ch; Quai Perdonnet; adult/child/student & senior Sfr10/free/8; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun), which takes an entertaining look at food and nutrition, past and present.

Musée Jenisch (021 921 29 50; www.museejenisch.ch; Ave de la Gare 2; adult/child/student/senior Sfr15/free/7.50/13; 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) exhibits Swiss art from the 19th and 20th centuries, as well as a broad collection of drawings by international artists. Check out the special section on Oskar Kokoschka, the Vienneseexpressionist. Another section is dedicated to prints and engravings by artists ranging from Dürer and Rembrandt to Canaletto and Corot. Just behind the museum on Ave de la Gare is a cute little golden onion-domed 19th-century Russian Orthodox church. North across the railway line rises the imposing belltower of the 13th-century Église de St Martin. Part of the Gothic original remains and a peaceful, leafy cemetery spreads out to the north.

Musée Suisse de l’Appareil Photographique (021 925 21 40; www.cameramuseum.ch; Grande Place; adult/child/student & senior Sfr8/free/6; 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) concentrates on the instruments rather than the images they produce. Other museums in Vevey cover such topics as wine-growing and the history of the town.

Once every 20 to 25 years the Lavaux (see opposite) wine-growers descend on the town to celebrate a huge summer festival. The last time was in 1999, so we’ll be waiting a while for the next one!

Sleeping

Yoba Riviera Lodge (021 923 80 40; www.rivieralodge.ch; Place du Marché 5; dm Sfr32, s/d Sfr88/95; ) This place is in a fun, central location, housed in a converted 19th-century mansion. The rooftop terrace offers great views and you can use the kitchen to keep eating costs down.

Hôtel des Négociants (021 922 70 11; www.hotelnegociants.ch; Rue du Conseil 27; s/d Sfr115/182; ) Just inside the quiet and pretty old town of Vevey, this is a cheerful hotel with bright rooms and good restaurant. They have wi-fi throughout the building.

Hôtel des Trois Couronnes (021 923 32 00; www.hoteldestroiscouronnes.ch; Rue d’Italie 49; s/d from Sfr350/450; ) An elegant pleasure dome in business since the mid-19th century, the ‘Three Crowns’ is Vevey’s best. The hotel’s three floors open onto interior galleries, and the decor – full of marble, period furniture and antiques – is all class.

Eating & Drinking

Le National (021 923 76 25; Rue du Torrent 9; mains Sfr25-32; 11am-midnight Mon-Tue, to 1am Wed-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Run by a young and enthusiastic team, this is a great place to eat and drink. On one side is a hip bar and, on the other side, the restaurant, where you can enjoy a mix of international dishes and super salads (Sfr17). On sunny days, take a seat in the back yard beneath the shade of a huge tree.

Le Mazot (021 921 78 22; Rue du Conseil 7; mains Sfr22-36; lunch & dinner Mon-Tue & Thu-Sat, dinner only Sun) In the heart of the old town, this is an institute of classic local cooking, dominated by steaks and horse meat filets in the special Mazot sauce (they’re not letting out the secret recipe).

Restaurant Le Château (021 921 12 10; www.denismartin.ch; Rue du Château 2; tasting menu Sfr260; dinner only Tue-Sun) Chef Denis Martin is one of the biggest names in Swiss contemporary cooking, inspired by the Catalan king of molecular kitchen wizardry, Ferran Adrià. The tasting menus involve a long list (some 20-odd) of tonsil-tickling taste sensations, some with such inscrutable names as L’air de rien parmesan et cubisme de veau (Parmesan looks like nothing with veal Cubism!). The restaurant is housed in a 17th century residence (that also houses the town’s history museum) a block from the lake.

Getting There & Away

Vevey is 18 to 25 minutes from Lausanne by train (Sfr7) and five to 10 minutes from Montreux (Sfr3.40). Trolley bus 1 runs from Vevey to Montreux (Sfr3.20) and on to Villeneuve (Sfr4.60).


Return to beginning of chapter

AROUND VEVEY

A steam train chugs along the 3km track (15 minutes) from Blonay to Chamby, where a train museum houses steam engines and machinery. Entry and the return trip cost Sfr18/9 per adult/child, but it only operates on Saturday afternoons and Sundays from early May to early October. On four or five Sunday afternoons in summer the steam train departs from Vevey (adult/child Sfr39/19.50). For more information, look up www.blonay-chamby.ch.

Spots near Vevey with good views and walks are Les Pléiades (1360m), accessible by train, Chexbres, a stop on the summer ‘wine train’ that runs to Puidoux, and Mont Pélerin (1080m) which is accessible by funicular and has a panoramic tower, Plein Ciel. En route to Les Pléiades is Lally, where Les Sapins (021 943 13 95; www.les-sapins.ch; Rte des Monts; s/d Sfr80/150, d with bathroom Sfr160; ) is a rambling and rustic choice for accommodation and food. Rooms are quite varied. They have a Jacuzzi and sauna on site and can arrange massages. The views south to the Alps are fabulous.


Return to beginning of chapter

LAVAUX WINE REGION

The serried ranks of lush, green, vine terraces that carpet the steep slopes above Lake Geneva between Lausanne and Montreux belong to the Lavaux wine region, which produces 20% of the Canton de Vaud’s wine and has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 2007.

The villages of Lutry, Villette, Cully, Calamin, Epesses (which, by the way, hosts one of the lake’s few nudist beaches), Dézaley, St Saphorin, Chardonne and Riex are among the wine centres. The two main wine types are Calamin and Dézaley and most of the whites (about three-quarters of all production) are made with the Chasselas grape.

It is possible to walk through much of the Lavaux wine country. Starting in Lutry, you can follow trails that lead you through hamlets like Grandvaux and down to lakeside Cully. In each it is often possible to visit caveaux. They tend to open between 5pm to 9pm Friday through Sunday. You could even walk all the way to Chardonne, about four hours’ walk depending on what sort of detours you make along the way. From there head to a lakeside town to pick up a train back to Lausanne.

The Lavaux Express (www.lavaux.com, in French & German; adult/under 4yr/4-12yr Sfr10/free/5; Mar-Oct) is a tractor-driven tourist train that does several circuits along wine trails between Lutry and Cully.


Return to beginning of chapter

MONTREUX & AROUND

pop 23,200 / elevation 385m

In the 19th century, writers, artists and musicians (Lord Byron and the Shelleys among them) flocked to this pleasing lakeside resort. It has remained a magnet ever since, its main drawcards being peaceful waterfront walks, mild microclimate and the Château de Chillon.

Montreux is known to music lovers for its annual summer jazz festival (going since 1967). In 1971, Montreux casino was the stage for a rather different kind of gig. Frank Zappa was doing his thing when the casino caught fire, casting a pall of smoke over Lake Geneva and inspiring the members of Deep Purple to pen their classic rock number, Smoke on the Water.

Orientation & Information

The lakeshore is fronted by a mix of 19th-century hotels, restaurants and shops, while the vieux quartier (Old Town) is a small cluster of quiet streets around Rue du Pont, high uphill. From the train station, on Ave des Alpes, take the lift or stairs from opposite the post office down to the shore. Here you’ll find the tourist office (084 886 84 84; www.montreux-vevey.com; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-noon & 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–mid-May), whose staff will help book hotels – a must at festival time.

Sights & Activities

CHÂTEAU DE CHILLON

This extraordinary, oval-shaped castle (Map;021 966 89 10; www.chillon.ch; Ave de Chillon 21; adult/child/student & senior Sfr12/6/10; 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Mar & Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Feb) was brought to the world’s attention by Lord Byron, and the world has been filing past ever since.

Occupying a stunning position on Lake Geneva, the 13th-century fortress is a maze of courtyards, towers and halls filled with arms, period furniture and artwork. The landward side is heavily fortified but lakeside it presents a gentler face. Chillon was largely built by the House of Savoy and then taken over by Bern’s governors after Vaud fell to that canton. In the Chapelle St Georges are medieval frescos. And don’t miss the spooky Gothic dungeons.

Byron made the place famous with The Prisoner of Chillon, his 1816 poem about François Bonivard, thrown into the dungeon for his seditious ideas and freed by Bernese forces in 1536. Byron carved his name into the pillar to which Bonivard was supposedly chained. Painters William Turner and Gustave Courbet captured the castle’s silhouette on canvas, while Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Alexandre Dumas and Mary Shelley were all moved to write about it.

The castle is a 45-minute walk along the lakefront from Montreux. Otherwise take trolley bus 1 (Sfr2.30), which passes by every 10 minutes.

OLD MONTREUX

The Musée de Montreux (Montreux Museum; 021 963 13 53; www.museemontreux.ch; Rue de la Gare 40; adult/child/student & senior Sfr6/free/4; 10am-noon & 2-5pm mid-Mar–early Nov) recounts the history of the town and locality. Displays range from a handful of Roman finds and coins through to period furniture, bathtubs and street signs. The steep streets around the museum and further uphill are the core of the original Old Town of Montreux and merit a wander. The charming Maison Visinand (021 963 07 26; www.montreux.ch/visinand; Rue du Pont 32; 3-6pm Wed-Sun) is a cultural centre and theatre with regular exhibitions.

AUDIORAMA

Thousands of radios and TVs of all vintages are held in what is also known as the Musée National Suisse de l’Audiovisuel (021 963 22 33; www.audiorama.ch; Ave de Chillon 74, Territet; adult/child/student & senior Sfr10/free/6; 1-6pm Tue-Sun). Throwing more light on the history of radio and TV are audiovisual archives from around the world. The whole is housed in the former Grand Hôtel, a belle époque gem whose star room is the Salle Sissi, an art-nouveau marvel with lake views.

ROCHERS DE NAYE

A scenic railway from Montreux leads to this natural platform (2042m), from where you have remarkable lake and Alpine views. MOB trains cost Sfr59 return.

SPAS

Montreux is a good place for a relaxing bath and beauty session.

Clinique la Prairie, Clarens-Montreux (021 989 33 11; www.laprairie.ch; Chemin de la Prairie, Clarens; beautymed programs from Sfr8400 a week) is Switzerland’s most famous spa. Specialising in ‘scientific rejuvenation’, or ‘beautymed’ treatments, it offers everything from whirlpool baths to cosmetic surgery.

Festivals & Events

Montreux’ best-known festival is Montreux Jazz (021 966 44 44; www.montreuxjazz.com) lasting two weeks in early July. Many free concerts take place every day, but count on spending around Sfr40 to Sfr100 for one of the big gigs. The music is not only jazz; past performers have included BB King, Paul Simon, Jamiroquai and Marianne Faithful.

The Montreux-Vevey Music Festival (021 962 80 00; www.septmus.ch; admission Sfr20-115) is a classical music fest (also known as Septembre Musical) held from late August to mid-September.

Sleeping

Auberge de Jeunesse (021 963 49 34; Passage de l’Auberge 8, Territet; dm from Sfr32; 7.30-10am & 5-10pm mid-Feb–mid-Nov; ) This modern, chirpy hostel is a 30-minute walk along the lake clockwise from the tourist office (or take the local train to Territet or bus 1). Dorms have two to eight beds.

Hôtel La Rouvenaz (021 963 27 36; www.montreux.ch/rouvenaz-hotel; Rue du Marché 1; s/d Sfr130/190; ) A simple, family-run spot with its own Italian restaurant downstairs, you cannot get any closer to the lake or the heart of the action. The 12 rooms are simple but pleasant and bright, and most have at least a lake glimpse.

Hôtel Masson (021 966 00 44; www.hotelmasson.ch; Rue Bonivard 5; s/d Sfr180/240 ) In 1829, this vintner’s mansion was converted into a hotel. The old charm has remained intact and the hotel, set in magnificent grounds, is on the Swiss Heritage list of the mostbeautiful hotels in the country. It lies southeast of Montreux and back in the hills, and is best reached by taxi. It also has a small sauna and Jacuzzi for guests.

Grand Hôtel Suisse Majestic (021 966 33 33; www.suisse-majestic.com; Ave des Alpes 45; s/d Sfr240/340, with lake views Sfr290/390; ) With its two-tiered frontage and ranks of bright yellow awnings sheltering the balconies of those rooms looking out over the lake, this historic hotel (built in 1870) remains one of the most atmospheric on the waterfront. Rooms with parquet floors and muted decor are warm and inviting.

Eating

Café du Grütli (021 963 42 65; Rue du Grand Chêne 8; mains up to Sfr30; Wed-Mon) This cheerful little eatery is hidden away in the old part of town and provides good home cooking, ranging from rösti with ham to hearty meat dishes, salads and the inevitable fondue.

Caveau des Vignerons (021 963 25 70; Rue Industrielle 30bis; mains Sfr23-38; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat) This is the classic locale for traditional Swiss cooking. Various fondue options (Sfr23 to Sfr31) are tempting, as are the meat dishes, done on ardoise (hot stone).

Le Matara (021 966 22 20; www.eurotelriviera.ch; Grand Rue 81; mains Sfr30-48; 11am-11pm) For well-prepared lake catch of the day, Matara is one of the better lakeside choices. It has a slightly dated feel but the outdoor terrace is very pleasant.

Montagnard (021 964 83 49; www.montagnard.ch; mains Sfr22-28; Wed-Sun) For a taste of hearty country fare in a one-time timber farmhouse that has been operating as a restaurant since 1928. It sits amid gardens in the village of Villard-sur-Chamby, a 9.5km taxi ride from central Montreux.

Le Pont de Brent (021 964 52 30; www.lepontdebrent.com; Rte de Blonay, Brent; tasting menus Sfr85-285, mains Sfr40-80; Tue-Sat) Set in a pretty country house, this is one of Switzerland’s top restaurants and has three Michelin stars (one of only two in the country). A changing and imaginative menu is complemented by a fine wine list. It’s northwest of Montreux in the hamlet of Brent, accessible by train.

Entertainment

Casino Barrière (021 962 83 83; www.casinodemontreux.ch; Rue du Théâtre 9; 11-3am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat) This casino has everything from slot machines to a pool (to cool off after burning through your millions).

Getting There & Away

From Lausanne, three trains an hour (Sfr10.20) take 20 to 35 minutes to reach Montreux. Scenic trains head up into the Bernese Oberland and Alps from Montreux (Click here). For boat services, Click here.


Return to beginning of chapter

NORTHWESTERN VAUD

The Jura mountain chain closes off the northwest of Vaud, running roughly parallel in the north to Lac de Neuchâtel, at whose southern tip sits Yverdon, a pleasant low-key town where you can take the waters.


Return to beginning of chapter

YVERDON-LES-BAINS

pop 24,700 / elevation 437m

The Romans were the first to discover the healthy qualities of Yverdon’s hot spa waters and since then the town has made its living from them. It’s an enjoyable lakeside resort and Canton de Vaud’s second-largest town.

Information

The tourist office (024 423 61 01; www.yverdon-les-bains.ch/tourisme; Ave de la Gare 1; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3.30pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3.30pm Sat & Sun May, Jun & Sep-Oct, 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) has information on the town and surrounding area.

Sights & Activities

The Old Town core is clustered around the 13th-century château, built by Peter II of Savoy. Inside, the Musée du Château (Musée d’Yverdon-les-Bains et Région; 024 425 93 10; adult/child/student & senior Sfr8/4/7; 11am-5pm Jun-Sep, 2-5pm Oct-May) contains local prehistoric artefacts, arms, clothing and a Ptolemaic Egyptian mummy.

Opposite the castle, the Maison d’Ailleurs (House of Elsewhere; 024 425 64 38; www.ailleurs.ch; Place de Pestalozzi 14; adult/child/student & senior Sfr9/5/7; 2-6pm Wed-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun) is a science-fiction museum that features a mock-up of a spaceship, a room dedicated to HR Giger (of Alien fame) and masses of material dealing with the science-fantasy worlds of figures ranging from Homer to Jules Verne. The latter section is separate and contains models of the fantastical vehicles Verne dreamt up in his novels. The museum only opens when a temporary exhibition is on.

At the west end of the same square stands the ochre, rounded and rather unique baroque facade of the mid-18th-century temple. This central church has a strange trapezoid form dictated by the medieval street plan.

The lake offers the opportunity for various boat rides and other water activities, including windsurfing, water-skiing and sailing. Beaches stretch along 5km of the lakeside. One company that rents out boats, windsurfing kits and the like is Les Vikings (www.lesvikings.ch; Chemin des Colons 16) at Yvonand, east of Yverdon along the lake.

SPAS

The water from the 14,000-year-old mineral springs starts 500m below ground. By the time it hits the surface it has picked up all sorts of salubrious properties from the layers of rock, and is particularly soothing for rheumatism and respiratory ailments.

The Centre Thermal (024 423 02 32; www.cty.ch; 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, Sun & hols), the health complex off Ave des Bains, offers a wide range of treatments. Even if you feel fine you can enjoy bathing in indoor and outdoor pools (temperature 28°C to 34°C) for Sfr19 for adults and Sfr11.50 for children (three to 16 years). For Sfr30 you get access to the pools, saunas, hammam (Turkish bath), a tropical shower, Japanese baths and a giant Jacuzzi.

Sleeping & Eating

Hôtel L’Ecusson Vaudois (024 425 40 15; www.ecussonvaudois.ch; Rue de la Plaine 29; s/d Sfr90/130, without bathroom Sfr70/110; ) This hotel, with aground‑floor café, is the only central place. It has a handful of fresh, modernised rooms, some of which do not have their own bathroom and are a little cheaper. The nonsmoking1st-floor restaurant (mains Sfr21 to Sfr32) is worth stopping by for traditional local cooking (perch filets, horsemeat steaks) and a range of vegetarian options. You can opt for a three-course set vegetarian (Sfr38) or fish (Sfr45) meal.

Hôtel de l’Ange (024 425 25 85; Rue de Clendy 25; s/d Sfr85/140; ) A sprawling old house about a 15-minute walk east of the train station, the ‘Angel Hotel’ has 22 straightforward rooms. The restaurant is also good for moderately priced local cooking. Lake fish, trout and flambéed scampi are among the house specialities.

Grand Hôtel des Bains (024 424 64 64; www.grandhotelyverdon.ch; Ave des Bains 22; s/d to Sfr350/440; ) The big daddy of the luxury bath hotels, it offers all imaginable comforts and free entry to the thermal pools.

Café/Restaurant du Château (024 425 49 62; Place de Pestalozzi 13; mains Sfr23-42) With its heavy dark timber beams and fine traditional meat and fish dishes, this classic mixes in a more modern tone with discreet furniture and lounge music. It also offers a limited pizza and pasta menu.

Getting There & Away

Regular trains run from Lausanne (Sfr14.80, 20 to 45 minutes). One or two an hour run to Neuchâtel (Sfr13.80, 20 minutes). An hourly train heads for Estavayer-le-Lac (Sfr7, 17 minutes).


Return to beginning of chapter

AROUND YVERDON-LES-BAINS

Grandson

Grandson’s stout, grey, 13th-century château (024 445 29 26; www.chateau-grandson.ch; adult/child/student & senior Sfr12/5/9; 8.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) fell briefly to Charles the Bold in early 1476, but Swiss Confederate troops soon turned the tables and strung some of his routed Burgundian troops from the apple trees in the castle orchard.

The castle’s Musée d’Histoire recounts the story of 1476 and other battles with dioramas, while the prize exhibit at its Musée de l’Automobile is Greta Garbo’s white Rolls Royce.

Regular buses connect Yverdon with Grandson (Sfr3, 13 minutes). Or you could walk the 5km around the lake.

Sainte-Croix

pop 4305 / elevation 1066m

High in the Jura Mountains, Sainte-Croix has been hailed for its music boxes since the mid-19th century. The art of making these intricate items is documented in the Centre International de la Méchanique d’Art (024 454 44 77; www.musees.ch; Rue de l’Industrie 2; guided tour in French adult/child/student & senior Sfr13/7/11; 10.30am, 2pm, 3.30pm & 5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, 2pm, 3.30pm & 5pm Tue-Sun Feb-May & Sep-Oct, 3pm Tue-Fri, 2pm, 3.30pm & 5pm Sat & Sun Nov-Jan). Music boxes contain a rotating spiked cylinder that bends and releases metal prongs, causing them to vibrate and hum melodiously. Some of the more elaborate boxes also incorporate miniature drums, bells and accordions. The best exhibits are the musical automata, such as the acrobats and a tiny Mozart.

The town is otherwise none too scintillating, but makes a handy base for local winter sports. The highest point in the area is Le Chasseron (1607m), the focus for the area’s downhill skiing and a two-hour walk from Sainte-Croix. It provides a marvellous 360-degree panorama of the Alps, Lac de Neuchâtel and the Jura.

A local train runs from Yverdon (Sfr10.20, 36 minutes).


Return to beginning of chapter

TO LAC DE JOUX

This little-visited corner of the canton to the north of Lac de Joux and its valley hides several gems. By car you could easily tour the area from Lausanne or Geneva in a day.

La Sarraz to Romainmôtier

From Lausanne take the N9 highway (not the freeway) towards La Sarraz. Its castle (021 866 64 23; adult/child/student & senior Sfr9/5/8; 1-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug & Oct, 1-5pm Sat & Sun & hols Easter-May & Sep), some of it dating from the 11th century, contains a museum devoted to the horse and carriage. From there follow a side road north to Orbe (where Nescafé was invented in 1938), which is interesting for the 13th-century Tour Bernard defensive tower and the Musée de Mosaïques Romaines (024 441 52 66; adult/child Sfr4/3; 9am-noon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri, 1.30-5.30pm Sat & Sun Easter-Oct). The museum is a series of pavilions containing mosaics on the site of a 3rd-century Gallo-Roman villa, 1.5km north of town. In the first pavilion is the beautiful polychrome mosaïque aux divinités, which depicts the seven planetary gods (Jupiter, Saturn and co). The second one contains the mosaïque du cortège rustique, with several rural scenes, including a man driving an ox-drawn cart.

Eight kilometres southwest, Romainmôtier is cupped in a lush green bowl of vegetation and wholly dominated by the Cluny order’s Abbatiale (024 453 14 65; admission free; 7am-8pm), a remarkable sandstone church whose origins reach back to the 6th century. Upon and around its 11th-century Romanesque core were added new layers in higgledy-piggledy fashion over the ensuing centuries. Through the mixed Romanesque-Gothic entrance you step into the proud interior of the church, with its powerful pillars and faded frescos. It is frequently the setting for concerts and recitals (www.concerts-romainmotier.ch). Of the couple of hotels and restaurants here, the pick is the delightful 17th-century Hôtel au Lieutenant Baillival (024 453 14 58; www.romainmotier.ch/~baillival; s Sfr110-180, d Sfr160-260; ), full of antique furniture and rustic charm. It has its own restaurant and wi-fi throughout.

Vallorbe to Lac de Joux

About 12km west along the N9 is the industrial town of Vallorbe. Its pleasant old centre astride the Orbe River is home to the Musée du Fer et du Chemin de Fer (Iron & Railway Museum; 021 843 25 83; adult/child/student Sfr12/6/10; 9.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm Tue-Sun, 1.30-6pm Mon mid-Mar-Oct, 1.30-6pm Tue-Fri Nov-mid-Mar), where you can see a blacksmith working at a traditional forge. Power for the furnace is derived from four large paddlewheels turning outside in the river. The railway section includes models and memorabilia. An hourly regional train from Lausanne to Vallorbe (Sfr16.80, 45 minutes) travels via La Sarraz. It makes a stop at Croy, from where it is just a short postal bus ride on to Romainmôtier (total trip Sfr3, five minutes).

A few kilometres outside Vallorbe is the underground Fort Pré-Giroud (Map; 021 843 25 83; adult/child/student & senior Sfr12/7/11; 10.30am-4pm daily Jul-late Aug, 11am-3.45pm Sat & Sun & hols May-Jun & late Aug-Oct), built in 1937 to ward off a possible attack from France. The seemingly unremarkable mountain chalet commands views across the Orbe Valley into France and below ground could accommodate 130 men. In its dormitories, canteens, kitchen, telephone exchange and infirmary now stand around 40 military mannequins. Bring warm clothing, as the underground temperature is 8°C. The fort is a 40-minute walk from Vallorbe (follow the Fort 39-45 signs) or a nice drive through forests on a minor back road leading over the mountain ridge to Vaulion.

About 2km south of Vallorbe on the road to Lac de Joux at Mont d’Orzeires is Juraparc (021 843 17 35; www.juraparc.ch; adult/child Sfr5/3.50; 9am-dusk), where North American bisoncavort in the company of bears and wolves.

Shortly afterwards you reach the Col du Mont d’Orzeires pass and descend to Le Pont, a sleepy village at the northern end of the Lac de Joux, a delightfully peaceful spot and source of your dinnertime perch filets.

The main road south follows the Orbe river through Le Brassus and skirts the border on the French side (bring your passport). You could turn east at Le Brassus to climb to the Col du Marchairuz pass (1447m) and descend through pretty villages towards Lake Geneva.


Return to beginning of chapter

ALPES VAUDOISES

The southeast corner of Vaud extends into a captivating Alpine nook. A five-day regional ski pass for the Alpes Vaudoises (Vaud Alps), including Les Diablerets glacier and Gstaad (Click here), costs Sfr249. Glacier skiing is an option in June and July and the hiking in summer is a dream.


Return to beginning of chapter

AIGLE

pop 8160 / elevation 405m

A many-turreted castle surrounded by vineyards is the highlight of Aigle, the capital of the Chablais wine-producing region in southeast Vaud. The Chablais, which extends into neighbouring Valais, produces some of the country’s best whites.

The castle, on a gentle rise, is itself enough to induce you to stop by. Anyone with even a vague interest in wine will want to visit its Musée de la Vigne et du Vin (024 466 21 30; adult/child/student & senior Sfr9/5/6; 11am-6pm daily Jul-Aug, to 6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct). Two thousand years of wine-making are explained across 17 rooms. Opposite the castle gates, the Maison de la Dîme houses the Musée de l’Etiquette, in which some 800 wine-bottle labels from around the world are displayed and explained. The naughty labels misappropriating names like ‘Champagne’ are at times quite a laugh. You enter with the ticket from the Musée de la Vigne et du Vin.

There are several hotels should you wish to stay. Regular trains operate from Lausanne (Sfr14.80, 30 minutes) to Aigle via Montreux.


Return to beginning of chapter

LEYSIN

pop 3480 / elevation 1350m

Leysin started life as a tuberculosis centre but is now a sprawling ski resort with 60km of runs. Many other sports are on offer, including a via ferrata – a vertical ‘footpath’ negotiated via cables and rungs. The tourist office (024 493 33 00; www.leysin.ch; Place Large) is based in the New Sporting Centre. Take in the Alpine scenery from the revolving restaurant atop Mt Berneuse (2048m). The cable car costs Sfr21 return in summer, or Sfr43 for the lift and a day’s skiing in winter.

Hiking Sheep (024 494 35 35; www.hikingsheep.com; dm/d Sfr30/80; ) gets floods of accolades from happy backpackers. This tall, art-deco house is two minutes’ walk from Grand Hotel station. It has a kitchen and good communal facilities. Les Orchidées (024 494 14 21; www.lesorchidees.ch; s/d Sfr80/140; ), a family hotel by Vermont station, has 18 crisp rooms, Alpine views and a decent restaurant. It is one of more than a dozen options.

To get to Leysin take the hourly cogwheel train that goes from Aigle (Sfr9, 22 to 30 minutes).


Return to beginning of chapter

LES DIABLERETS

elevation 1150m

Overshadowed by the mountain of the same name (3209m), Les Diablerets is one of the key ski resorts in the Alpes Vaudoises. A number of fairly easy ski runs are open during June and July at Glacier de Tsanfleuron (3000m), which gives the Diablerets resort its recent official name, Glacier 3000. Whether you plan to ski or not, the views are fabulous.

Two cable cars run up to the glacier from the valley floor, both are linked to the village by bus: starting from Reusch or Col du Pillon you get to Cabane des Diablerets, where a further cable car whisks you almost to the summit at Scex Rouge. To ski from here all the way back down to Reusch is an exhilarating 2000m descent over 14km.

A one-day ski pass that takes in Les Diablerets, Villars and Gryon and the glacier costs Sfr58.

The town’s tourist office (024 492 33 58; www.diablerets.ch), to the right of the train station, has more information.

Auberge de la Poste (024 492 31 24; www.aubergedelaposte.ch; Rue de la Gare; s/d Sfr100/200; ) is a grand, inviting, timber hotel oozing mountain charm. It has wi-fi.

From Aigle take the hourly train via Le Sépey (Sfr10.80, 50 minutes).


Return to beginning of chapter

VILLARS & GRYON

Villars (1350m) and nearby Gryon share the same local ski pass with Les Diablerets and in winter are linked by a free train for holders of the ski pass. For information on the area check out each village’s website: www.villars.ch and www.gryon.ch. If you want to buy ski passes in advance at reduced rates, check out www.easyski.ch.

The skiing is mostly intermediate but the runs are varied, making it ideal for families. In summer, the country is perfect for hiking. One great walk starts at the Col de Bretaye pass (reached by BVB train from Villars), takes you past the pretty Lac de Chavonnes and on through verdant mountain country to Les Diablerets. The walk takes about fours hours, and from Les Diablerets you could catch a train to Aigle. The views from around the Col de Bretaye are magnificent, taking in the Dents du Midi and Mont Blanc.

Early risers can easily get in a day’s skiing here from Geneva or Lausanne. Staying overnight is, generally, not a terribly cheap option.

In Villars, Hôtel Ecureuil (024 496 37 37; Rue Centrale; s/d Sfr125/210) offers pleasant and mostly spacious rooms, with plenty of timber. It also has a tempting little restaurant (mains Sfr17-43; Wed-Mon; ), specialising in grilled meats.

Much of Villar’s nightlife revolves around El Gringo (www.elgringo.ch; 11pm-4am Fri & Sat low season, nightly ski season). Aside from the club, the same people run a couple of bars in the same complex, along with the perfectly acceptable La Toscana (024 495 79 21; Rte des Hôtels; meals Sfr50-60; 7-11pm Wed-Mon), which does good Italian grub.

From Aigle you can reach Villars by an hourly bus (Sfr8.20, 40 minutes). Otherwise, mainline trains continue to Bex (known for its nearby salt mineswww.mines.ch) and connect with local trains to Gryon (Sfr6.20, 25 to 30 minutes) and Villars (Sfr8.20, 40 minutes). The train running from Gryon to Villars is free with the ski pass. Occasional postal buses connect Villars with Les Diablerets via the Col de la Croix pass (closed in winter).


Return to beginning of chapter

PAYS D’ENHAUT

The ‘High Country’ rises in the northeast corner of Vaud about midway between Aigle and Gruyères. In winter it could almost be considered the Francophone extension of the swank Gstaad ski scene, just over the cantonal frontier.

Château-d’Œx is an attractive family resort with a nice selection of moderate ski runs, but the place is best known for all its hot air. Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones launched their record-breaking, round-the-world, 20-day hot-air balloon ride from here in March 1999 (they landed in Egypt). For one week in the second half of January the place bursts into a frenzy of floating colour as the town hosts the annual Semaine Internationale de Ballons à Air Chaud (www.ballonchateaudoex.ch) involving around 100 hot-air balloons ranging from the standard floater to odd creatures such as a massive Scottish bagpipe player! Entry just to see and feel all the hot air up close is Sfr9 on the weekend (free on weekdays). If you want to fly up, up and away, steady your nerves for fiscal turbulence. It costs up to Sfr350 per adult (half for children) for about one hour. Cheese and sweets lovers should make a beeline for Le Chalet (026 924 66 77; www.lechalet-fromagerie.ch; mains Sfr15-23; 9am-6pm Tue-Sun). This grand old cheesemaker is the place to gorge yourself on creamy fondue or Raclette and dreamy meringues with double cream. And they make the cheese before your eyes (from 1.30pm to 3.30pm Wednesday to Sunday)!

Less than 10km east is Rougemont, the other main centre. Both villages offer a variety of accommodation throughout the year. Summer activities include rafting and hiking.

The Château-d’Œx tourist office (026 924 25 25; www.chateau-doex.ch; La Place) is in the centre, below the hilltop clock tower. There are about 20 places to stay, ranging from chalets to a handful of rather overbearing big hotels.

The village is on the scenic Montreux-Spiez train route serviced by MOB trains. From Montreux it takes one hour and costs Sfr18.20.


Return to beginning of chapter