Wild Mustangs, 76″ × 62″. Machine pieced and quilted by Joy Pelzmann.
Cubes can be made from hexagons by creating the illusion of dimension. This illusion is achieved by making the eye believe there is a light source. This light source must be consistent throughout the quilt to be believable, so the shading must be the same for each cube.
For this technique you need light, intermediate, and dark value fabrics. We will use the word intermediate to denote value and the word medium to define size.
For the cubes, choose fabrics that will work well when placed in the same quilt with your kaleidoscope hexagons. The cube fabrics need to read as solids. You may also want to use some of the original kaleidoscope fabric. Because your kaleidoscope fabric does not read as a solid, take care in selecting its location in the quilt, as well as what parts of the fabric you cut.
Strip with light and dark areas
The first question you need to ask yourself is whether you want these cubes to blend into your quilt and be hidden or if you want them to stand out in relief. Your choice will depend in part on your kaleidoscopic fabric and your personal taste. Here is your chance to try out some of those luscious batiks you’ve been drooling over but couldn’t quite place in any other quilt. Remember that gradation of hand dyes you just couldn’t resist at the quilt show? This is the perfect place for them. Many shades of the same color add interest to the quilt, and it is not unusual for us to use fifteen or twenty fabrics in our cubes. Fat quarters are perfect for this purpose.
This cube is one you may have made before. We’ve included it here to establish shading and to show how the block goes together to make a basic cube. Each side of this cube appears as a solid surface, and it is made of six unpieced triangles.
1. Cut 3¾″-wide strips of light, intermediate, and dark value fabrics. Note: These need not be of the same color.
2. Cut two 3¾″ triangles of each fabric (see Cutting Triangles for Hexagons, page 14).
3. Sew 2 dark triangles together and 2 intermediate triangles together to create 2 diamond units.
4. Place a light triangle at the top of each diamond made in Step 3, as shown.
Placement of light fabric triangles
5. Pin the light triangles to the diamonds, aligning the raw edges. Take care to sew along the correct seam; it’s easy to sew the wrong side of the triangle if you haven’t pinned it first.
Sew correct side of light triangle.
6. Sew the seams and press them open. Do not sew these half hexagons together. Trust us—this makes it easier to complete the quilt later. Put this cube on the design wall. It will be your reference for those that follow.
A regular trapezoid looks like the base of an equilateral triangle with the pointed top removed. Cutting trapezoid pieces using the Clearview Triangle ruler is easy. The cutting sizes in all the following directions correspond to the numbering system running down the center of the Clearview Triangle ruler. Throughout the book, all trapezoids are cut from 1½″ strips of fabric. When sewn together, the small, medium, and large trapezoids create one equilateral triangle.
The small trapezoid is cut by aligning the lower edge of the strip of fabric with the 1¾″ line of the ruler. On the small trapezoid, the point of the Clearview Triangle ruler sticks out just beyond the edge of the strip. This is correct. When the block is finished and all seams are sewn, this piece will be a triangle.
Small trapezoid
The medium trapezoid is cut by aligning the lower edge of the strip of fabric with the 2¾″ line of the ruler.
Medium trapezoid
The large trapezoid is cut by aligning the lower edge of the strip of fabric with the 3¾″ line of the ruler.
Large trapezoid
TIP
When sewing the trapezoids together, you may think they cannot possibly fit. However, when they are placed in position with right sides together, the ¼. seam will be perfectly aligned in the notch.
Aligning two trapezoids to sew
In our classes, we have referred to this as a hollowed-out cube. However, to better distinguish it from hollow cubes (beginning on page 22), we are calling it cube in a corner.
1. Cut a 1½″ strip and a 2¾″ strip from each of 3 fabrics: a light, an intermediate, and a dark.
2. From the 2¾″ strips, cut 2 triangles each of the light, intermediate, and dark fabrics (see Cutting Triangles for Hexagons, page 14).
3. From the 1½″ strips, cut 3¾″ (large) trapezoids: 2 each of the light, intermediate, and dark fabrics. Arrange the fabric pieces as shown. Sew the trapezoids to the triangles (see Trapezoids as Building Blocks, page 18). Press the seams open.
Exploded cube in a corner
Sew trapezoids to triangles.
4. Sew the triangles together to create the half hexagons (see Sewing Half Hexagons, page 15). Press the seams open.
Completed half hexagons
5. Pin the half hexagons together. Place them on the design wall and step away. You now have a cube in a corner.
Cube in a corner (also known as hollowed-out cube)
6. Turn this block upside down and step away again. Notice how the look of the block changes entirely? You can easily use this difference to add visual interest to your quilt.
Upside down cube in a corner
What do you see when you look into a box? If you look into the open dark side, the darkest part of the opening is toward the center on the inside. We can re-create this shading by using three different dark colors.
Up until now we have been using triangles made of one or two fabrics, but now we will create shaded triangles pieced from three trapezoids.
We are only including directions for a cube open on the dark side. To open the cube on the light side (top), replace the light triangles with two shaded triangles pieced from three lights (the darkest light should be lighter than the intermediate). To open the cube on the intermediate side, replace the intermediate triangles with two shaded triangles pieced from three intermediates (the lightest intermediate should be darker than the light, and the darkest intermediate should be lighter than the dark).
1. To create 2 shaded triangles use 3 shades of dark fabric; cut a 1½″ strip from each fabric.
2. Cut 2 small (1¾″) trapezoids from the darkest dark fabric (see Trapezoids as Building Blocks, page 18).
3. Cut 2 medium (2¾″) trapezoids from the intermediate dark fabric.
4. Cut 2 large (3¾″) trapezoids from the lightest of the dark fabrics.
5. Cut two 3¾″ triangles each of the light and intermediate fabrics (see Cutting Triangles for Hexagons, page 14).
6. Arrange the fabric pieces as shown. Sew the trapezoids together to form triangles. Sew the triangles together. Be sure to match the seams exactly; the points must line up, so take your time. Accuracy promotes the illusion.
Exploded cube open on dark side
7. Sew the half hexagons together (see Sewing Half Hexagons, page 15). Pin the halves together, place them on the design wall, and admire.
Completed cube open on dark side
This block design was developed by Sara Nephew. We use these hollow cube blocks to add interest to the quilt.
What would you see if there were a window in each wall of a cube? As we look at the cube from the front, the top window exposes a glimpse of both side walls. Through the windows on the sides, you see the other side and the floor of the cube. A light, an intermediate, and a dark fabric are all you need for this amazing illusion.
As you cut your pieces, lay them out carefully following the block photograph given with the instructions. Being systematic reduces confusion and error. As you get more comfortable making these cubes, you will find a system that works for you.
Our system is analogous to the face of a clock. We begin at twelve o’clock and move in a clockwise direction.
Place the smallest trapezoid on the medium trapezoid and sew the two together.
Continue around the cube, sewing each small trapezoid to a medium trapezoid. Press the seams open.
Place these units back in their correct position and sew a large trapezoid to each of the triangles you just completed. Press the seams open and position the units as before.
You are now ready to complete the half hollow cubes.
1. Each cube is always composed of light, intermediate, and dark fabrics. It is this shading that defines a cube.
2. Each cube is made of 6 triangles.
3. Each triangle of the cube is always pieced with a 1¾″ trapezoid (a triangle when finished), a 2¾″ trapezoid, and a 3¾″ trapezoid, which are labeled as small, medium, and large, respectively.
There are two basic methods for piecing triangles that are not made of a solid piece of fabric: the “V-shape method” and the “stripe method” Each method also has a corresponding rule.
V-shape rule: In the V-shape method, the medium and large trapezoids are always the same color, and the smallest trapezoid is always a different color.
Stripe rule: In the stripe method, the smallest trapezoid is always the same color as the largest trapezoid, and the center trapezoid is always a different color.
V-shape triangle and stripe triangle
It is the use of light, intermediate, and dark fabrics combined with the two basic triangle shapes that makes hollow cubes look hollow. These basic shapes can be arranged in several different ways to produce completely unique-looking hollow cubes. Learning the secrets of the hollow cube adds an amazing array of design elements to your toolbox.
The basic hollow cube is made of six V triangles. Two V triangles with outside “arms” (medium and large trapezoids) of the same color are placed together to form a diamond. When the block is completed, each diamond becomes a side of the cube with a square “hole” in it.
1. Cut 1½″ strips of light, intermediate, and dark fabrics.
2. Cut 6 small (1¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark (see Trapezoids as Building Blocks, page 18).
3. Cut 6 medium (2¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark.
4. Cut 6 large (3¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark.
5. Arrange the fabric pieces as shown.
Exploded hollow cube
6. Study the exploded block in the photograph above to make sure you place all the trapezoids correctly.
7. Sew each small trapezoid to a medium trapezoid to form a triangle. Press the seams open.
8. Sew the large trapezoid to either side of the newly formed triangle. Remember that you want to create the V-shape.
9. Sew the two V triangles with the intermediate-value sides together, forming a diamond with the small triangles touching. Match the seam intersections of the inside triangles carefully because an inaccurate match will be visually noticeable. This is the place for accuracy. We insert a pin vertically at the point where the seams will intersect; once we have a perfect match, we insert a pin horizontally on either side of the vertical pin. Sew the 2 V triangles with the dark-value sides together the same way. Press the seams open.
10. Add the V-shape with light-value sides and the intermediate center to the dark-edged diamond along the side with the intermediate inner triangle. Add the V-shape with light-value edges and the dark center to the intermediateedged diamond along the side with the dark inner triangle.
Add light V-shapes.
11. Pin the 2 halves together, put the unit on the design wall, and admire.
Completed hollow cube
These cubes all have two stripe triangles and four V triangles. The stripe triangles create the slice and the V’s create the hollow. Remember to press the seams open.
What do you see if there is a window in the right wall of the cube and the left side has an open slice? As you look at the cube from the top, you see an open slice on the left. You see into the cube through the slice as well as through the window on the right. Once again, this illusion is accomplished with a light, an intermediate, and a dark fabric. The light fabric is the mottled batik, and the medium fabric is the dotted batik. The value contrast is subtle, but adequate.
1. Cut 1½″ strips of light, intermediate, and dark fabrics.
2. Cut 6 small (1¾″) trapezoids: 3 light and 3 intermediate (see Trapezoids as Building Blocks, page 18).
3. Cut 6 medium (2¾″) trapezoids: 1 light, 1 intermediate, and 4 dark.
4. Cut 6 large (3¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark.
5. Arrange the fabric pieces as shown below.
Exploded cube with slice on left
6. Study the exploded block in the photograph following Step 5 to make sure you place the trapezoids correctly.
7. Sew each small trapezoid to a medium trapezoid to form triangles.
8. Referring to the exploded block photograph, add the larger trapezoids to form 4 V triangles and 2 stripe triangles. Remember the V-shape rule—the medium and large trapezoids should be the same color. Follow the stripe rule for the others—the larger trapezoid will be the same color as the small triangle.
9. Arrange the triangles following the exploded block photograph. Sew 3 of the triangles together to create a half hexagon; sew the remaining 3 triangles together to create the other half hexagon. Pin the halves together, put the hexagon on the design wall, and admire.
Completed half hexagons
Completed hollow cube with slice on left
What do you see if there is a window in the left wall of the cube and the right side has an open slice? As you look at the cube from the top, you see an open slice on the right. You see into the cube through the slice as well as through the window on the left. Once again, this illusion is accomplished with a light, an intermediate, and a dark fabric.
1. Cut one 1½″ strip each of light, intermediate, and dark fabrics.
2. Cut 6 small (1¾″) trapezoids: 3 light and 3 dark (see Trapezoids as Building Blocks, page 18).
3. Cut 6 medium (2¾″) trapezoids: 1 light, 4 intermediate, and 1 dark.
4. Cut 6 large (3¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark.
5. Arrange the fabric pieces as shown below.
Exploded hollow cube with slice on right
6. Study the exploded block in the photograph above to make sure you place the trapezoids correctly.
7. Sew each small trapezoid to a medium trapezoid to form triangles.
8. Referring to the exploded block photograph, add the larger trapezoids to form 4 V triangles and 2 stripe triangles. Remember the V-shape rule—the medium and large trapezoids should be the same color. Follow the stripe rule for the others—the larger trapezoid will be the same color as the small triangle.
9. Arrange the triangles following the exploded block photograph. Sew 3 of the triangles together to create a half hexagon; sew the remaining 3 triangles together to create the other half hexagon. Pin the halves together, put the hexagon on the design wall, and admire.
Completed half hexagons
Completed hollow cube with slice on right
What do you see if there is a window in the top of the cube and an open slice in the front? As you look at the cube from the top, you see into the cube through the window. You can also see the floor of the cube through the open slice. Once again, this illusion is accomplished with a light, an intermediate, and a dark fabric.
1. Cut one 1½″ strip each of light, intermediate, and dark fabrics.
2. Cut six small (1¾″) trapezoids: 3 intermediate and 3 dark (see Trapezoids as Building Blocks, page 18).
3. Cut six medium (2¾″) trapezoids: 4 light, 1 intermediate, and 1 dark
4. Cut six large (3¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark
5. Arrange the fabric pieces as shown below.
Exploded hollow cube with slice on front
6. Study the exploded block in the photograph following Step 5 to make sure you place the trapezoids correctly.
7. Sew each small trapezoid to a medium trapezoid to form triangles.
8. Referring to the exploded block photograph, add the larger trapezoids to form 4 V triangles and 2 stripe triangles. Remember the V-shape rule—the medium and large trapezoids should be the same color. Follow the stripe rule for the others—the larger trapezoid will be the same color as the small triangle.
9. Arrange the triangles following the exploded block photograph. Sew 3 of the triangles together to create a half hexagon; sew the remaining 3 triangles together to create the other half hexagon. Pin the halves together, put the hexagon on the design wall, and admire.
Completed half hexagons
Completed hollow cube with slice on front
What do you see if there is a cube sitting in the corner of a larger cube? You see the back walls and the floor of the larger cube and a small cube resting in the back corner. Once again, this illusion is accomplished with a light, an intermediate, and a dark fabric. The cube within a cube is made from six stripe triangles.
1. Cut one 1½″ strip each of light, intermediate, and dark fabrics.
2. Cut 6 small (1¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark (see Trapezoids as Building Blocks, page 18).
3. Cut 6 medium (2¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark.
4. Cut 6 large (3¾″) trapezoids: 2 light, 2 intermediate, and 2 dark.
5. Arrange the fabric pieces as shown below.
Exploded cube within a cube
6. Study the exploded block in the photograph following Step 5 to make sure you place the trapezoids correctly.
7. Sew each small trapezoid to a medium trapezoid to form triangles. Add the larger trapezoids to form 6 stripe triangles. Remember the stripe rule—the larger trapezoid will be the same color as the small triangle.
8. Arrange the triangles following the exploded block photograph. Sew 3 of the triangles together to create a half hexagon; sew the remaining 3 triangles together to create the other half hexagon. Pin the halves together, put the hexagon on the design wall, and admire.
Completed half hexagons
Completed cube within a cube
You can turn this cube upside down to create a completely different illusion.
Upside down cube within a cube
As you audition your quilt on the wall, some areas will work better for you than others. Cubes to the rescue! They can solve awkward transition problems and bring interest and movement to the quilt.
Because there are two authors of this book, there are two approaches to design. Maxine makes cubes as she sees the need for them. In contrast, Joy makes many cubes and then uses the ones that suit her project best.
Our experience has taught us that a cluster of cubes creates a stronger illusion than just one poor lonely cube. Joy sees water flowing through the cubes and places her cubes to enhance this movement. Even though these designs are abstract, each one tells a story.
The photo below is an example of a beginning point. On the design wall, we’ve arranged and are auditioning an array of kaleidoscopes we find pleasing.
Initial quilt design
We found several places where the transition was not as smooth as it could be. We covered those places with cubes, hollow and otherwise, and then added a few more for interest. This organic process always creates wonderful and stunning results.
Completed design including cubes, hollow and otherwise
Sky’s the Limit, 72″ × 60½″. Machine pieced and quilted by Joy Pelzmann.
Original fabric
4½ yards of fabric for hexagon blocks (6 repeats plus ½ yard to include in the backing)
A variety of coordinating fabrics in light, intermediate, and dark values for cubes
Borders and binding fabrics: 2½ yards
Accent-border fabric: ¼ yard
Backing: 3¾ yards*
Batting: 76″ × 65″
*This quantity assumes you will include½ yard of the original fabric in the backing.
1. Divide the fabric into 6 identical repeats.
2. Align all 6 layers exactly.
3. Trim one edge of the 6 layers and cut 6 strips 3¾″ × the width of the fabric.
4. Using the Clearview Triangle ruler, cut 3¾″ triangles through all 6 layers. Keep the triangles stacked together.
1. For the inner border, cut 7 strips 3½″ × the width of the fabric.
2. For the accent border, cut 7 strips ¾″ × the width of the fabric.
3. For the outer border, cut 7 strips 4½″ × the width of the fabric.
4. For the binding, cut 7 strips 2½″ × the width of the fabric.
1. Sew the triangles into half hexagons, pressing the seams open. Pin the halves together. You will have anywhere from 108–114 blocks. You will need approximately 80–90 blocks to make the quilt as shown.
2. Arrange the blocks on a design wall in 9 rows of 9 blocks each. Add half blocks to the sides to fill in.
3. Play with the design and decide what types of cubes you want to incorporate into your quilt. Refer to Cubes, page 16, for specific cutting and sewing instructions for each type. Add cubes wherever they seem appropriate to you.
4. Assemble the quilt top by sewing the half hexagons together in vertical rows. Refer to Hexagons or Cubes Falling Out of the Quilt, page 68, for instructions on completing the inner border where cubes extend outside the quilt center.
5. Trim the top edge of the quilt.
1. Measure your quilt vertically through the center. Use this measurement to cut 1 strip of the inner-border fabric, piecing as needed. Sew the strip to the left side of the quilt.
2. Measure your quilt horizontally through the center, including the borders. Piece and cut strips of inner-border fabric to the measured length; attach the inner border to the top of the quilt.
3. Repeat the measuring process to add the accent border and outer border to the quilt.
4. Make a backing. Quilt and bind.
Red Toile, 65.″ × 73½″. Machine pieced and quilted by Maxine Rosenthal.
Autumn Cubes, 77″ × 64″. Machine pieced and quilted by Joy Pelzmann.
Anni’s Quilt, 71″ × 60″. Machine pieced and quilted by Maxine Rosenthal.
Operation Migration Second Raffle Quilt, 69″ × 60″. Machine pieced by Nancy Drew. Quilted by Lois Koester at Faye’s Henhouse Quilts, Mayville, North Dakota.
Tantalizing Tapestry, 77″ × 57½″. Machine pieced by Linda Vikla of Blue Bamboo. Quilted by Theresa Francisco. Linda says, “Over the years I have made countless projects in needlepoint, knitting, counted cross-stitch, and quilting. I have enjoyed everything, but my most favorite endeavors have involved working with Maxine’s book. Now these are the only quilts I want to make. With Maxine’s designs, I can make a one-of-a-kind work of art not just once but several times over”
Swiss Chard, 56″ × 46″. Machine pieced and quilted by Maxine Rosenthal.
Chickens in My Yard, 72″ × 64″. Machine pieced and quilted by Maxine Rosenthal.
