CHAPTER 23
Aspics
Almost completely absent from modern tables, aspic, a dish in which ingredients are set into a chilled gelatin-rich meat stock or consommé, was once a popular dish in America, and remains so in Europe, especially middle Europe. Aspics hark back to the Middle Ages, when cooks discovered that a thickened meat broth could be made into a jelly. The earliest detailed recipe for aspic dates from 1375.
By the eighteenth century, aspics were popular dishes in France—French chefs included a variety of aspics in their repertoires. The dish came into prominence in America in the early twentieth century with the popularization of gelatin, which made gelling much easier and more predictable. By the 1950s, meat aspic was a popular dinner staple throughout the United States, as were other gelatin-based dishes such as tomato aspic, often served at buffets. Cooks liked to show off their creative skills by preparing original and colorful gelatin desserts.
Carefully crafted aspics showing geometric patterns of salad vegetables, peas, shrimp, and other ingredients can be found in Scandinavian cookbooks from the 1950s to the 1970s.
Today aspics have fallen from grace. It is our hope that the recipes included here help bring back this forgotten culinary art. From the folk dish of pickled pig’s feet to the more gentle veal in aspic, these dishes are both healthful and practical, as the jellied stock helps preserve the meat and, of course, provides all the benefits of gelatinous broth. And homemade broth-based aspics provide a truly refreshing way to consume nourishing broth in the hot summer months.
When dehydrated and powdered gelatin came on the scene, books on “gelatine cookery” became popular. Gelatin, rather than gelatin-rich broth, was used to create a range of dishes, from sweetened mousse and other gelatin desserts, often mixed with cream, to savory aspics made with meat, chicken, shrimp, salmon, tongue, and even kidneys. Cox’s Manual of Gelatine Cookery, featuring Cox’s gelatin powder, produced in Scotland, was popular in England in the early twentieth century. The quivering molded culinary creations one sees on Downton Abbey were no doubt inspired by Cox’s gelatin cookbook.
Sweetened aspics, called gelatin salads, originally were also made with meat stock or consommé, an ingredient later supplanted by powdered gelatin or presweetened gelatin in the form of Jell-O. Sometimes cream is added to the stock, in which case the dish is called a chaud-froid.
Aspics require a very gelatinous stock, from which the fat is removed and which is usually clarified with egg whites or by pouring it carefully through a jelly straining bag or a coffee filter. A small amount of gelatin may be added to obtain a good gel—we recommend the Great Lakes brand (see Sources, here). The standard technique is to fill a mold or terrine with pieces of meat and sometimes vegetables or fruit, pour the stock over the ingredients, and chill. Aspics can also be made in individual ramekins. Aspics are typically served on cold plates so the gel will not melt when plated. To remove a jellied dish from a mold, briefly dip the mold into hot water and then invert it onto the chilled plate. Refrigerate immediately and keep refrigerated until serving time.
Beef Aspic with Port Wine
Serves 6 to 8
4 cups homemade rich beef stock or consommé, clarified (see here)
½ cup port wine
½ to 4 teaspoons Great Lakes gelatin
Sea salt
Chill the stock to determine the thickness of the gel.
In a large saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer and add the wine. If the stock had a firm gel, use ½ teaspoon gelatin. If the stock had a medium gel, use 2 teaspoons gelatin. If the stock had little gel, use 4 tablespoons gelatin. Add the gelatin by placing it in a small bowl and whisking a small amount of hot stock into the gelatin. Then whisk the gelatin mixture into the hot stock to dissolve it. Season with salt. Grease a 1-quart mold or 8 individual ½-cup molds, pour the mixture into the mold or molds, and refrigerate several hours or until firm.
Serve as an appetizer, spooned into small bowls or cups, in individual molds, or cut into wedges and presented on pieces of lettuce, with a garnish of tomatoes.
Calf’s Foot Jelly
Calves’ feet can be found at ethnic grocery stores, particularly those with a kosher butcher.
Serves 12 to 15 as an appetizer or snack
2 calves’ feet, preferably cut into 1-inch cross sections
Cold filtered water to cover the feet, about 2 quarts
2 large carrots, peeled and diced
1 large onion, peeled and diced
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 cloves garlic, minced
3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
5 lemons, sliced into wedges
Thoroughly rinse the calves’ feet. Place them in a stockpot and add cold filtered water to cover. Place over medium heat, uncovered, bring to a boil, and spoon off any scum that rises to the top. Drain the calves’ feet and cover again with a change of cold water. Bring almost to a boil, then lower the heat to the lowest setting possible. Add the carrots and onion and cook for a minimum of 6 hours, or preferably overnight, until any meat, cartilage, tendons, and ligaments separate easily from the bones.
Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer into a large heatproof bowl (see tips for straining on here). Reserve the meat but discard the bones and vegetables. Return the strained stock to the pot, place over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and simmer until reduced by about one-third, leaving you with about 6 cups. Taste the stock and season with salt and pepper.
Chop the meat, cartilage, and softened tendons and ligaments into small pieces, taking care to remove any bone fragments and to use only those pieces that can be easily cut with the knife. Add the garlic.
Grease a rectangular glass or enameled 9-by-13-inch baking dish and place the sliced eggs neatly in the bottom of the dish. Evenly distribute the meat-garlic mixture over the eggs. Pour the broth on top. The depth of the broth should be no less than 1 inch; 1½ inches is ideal.
Place in the refrigerator and chill until it solidifies, about 3 hours. Cut into squares and serve on chilled plates. Garnish each serving with a lemon wedge, which may be squeezed over the aspic for additional flavor.
Jellied Pig’s Feet
Serves 8 to 10 as an appetizer
3 pig’s feet
1 veal knuckle
Cold filtered water to cover the the pig’s feet, about 2 quarts
1 small onion, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
¼ teaspoon dried sage
1 bay leaf
1 whole clove
2 whole black peppercorns
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
Sea salt
Thoroughly rinse the pig’s feet and veal knuckle. Place them in a stockpot and add cold filtered water to cover. Place over medium heat, uncovered, bring to a boil, and carefully spoon off any scum that rises to the top. Add the onion, garlic, sage, bay leaf, clove, and peppercorns, then lower the heat to low and cook at a bare simmer with the lid off or slightly askew for 3 to 4 hours, until the meat falls from the bones. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer into or a large heatproof bowl (see tips for straining on here), remove the meat from the bones, and finely chop it.
Rinse the pan, return the broth to the pan, and add the reserved meat and the vinegar. Place over medium heat and cook, uncovered, until the liquid is reduced by half. Season with salt. Turn into a 9-by-13-inch rectangular dish and chill until firm, about 3 hours.
Pork in Aspic
Adopted from Janez Bogataj, The Food and Cooking of Slovenia
There are many names for this dish, beloved across Europe, especially in Poland, Slovenia, and Latvia. The Slovenian version is called Žolce.
Serves 12 to 14
4 pig’s knuckles and feet
1 pig’s ear (optional)
Cold filtered water, about 3–4 quarts
1 onion, peeled and sliced
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh marjoram
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
Sea salt
Apple cider vinegar
Place the knuckles and feet and optional pig’s ear in a stockpot and add cold filtered water to cover. Place over medium heat, uncovered, bring to a bare simmer, and carefully spoon off any scum that rises to the top. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, marjoram, peppercorns, and a pinch of salt. Lower the heat to low and cook at a bare simmer with the lid off for about 3 hours, until the meat is falling off the bones, occasionally skimming scum from the top as needed and checking to ensure that the bones remain covered with water and adding more water as needed.
Remove the knuckles, feet, and ear, if you used it, with tongs and a slotted spoon. Remove the meat from the bones and finely chop it. Place the meat in a greased 9-by-13-inch rectangular pan and set aside.
Return the bones to the stock and boil, uncovered, until reduced by about half (about 1 hour), leaving enough broth to cover the chopped meat. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer or chinois lined with cheesecloth into a heatproof bowl (see tips for straining on here) and set aside to cool. Season with salt and pour the stock over the meat. Cover and chill until the stock has set to a jelly, about 3 hours or overnight. Cut into thick slices and serve on chilled plates with cider vinegar and dark rye bread. Eat within 2 to 3 days.
Veal or Beef in Aspic
This aspic is a good way to use the meat from the bones when making stock or for leftover stew meat.
Serves 6
About 3 cups cooked veal or beef, pulled apart or chopped
1 bunch green onions, chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 1 quart homemade gelatinous beef or veal broth, clarified (see here) and warmed
Lettuce leaves and tomato wedges
In a large bowl, combine the veal, green onions, and bell pepper. Season with salt and pepper. Place in a greased 6-cup ring mold or rectangular pan and pour the broth over the meat. Refrigerate until the broth is set, about 4 hours.
To serve, spoon out and serve on lettuce leaves, or dip the mold briefly into hot water and invert onto a chilled plate, slice, and serve. Garnish with tomato wedges.
Chicken Salad Aspic
Makes 6 cups
2 cups shredded chicken meat
4 green onions, ends cut off and finely chopped
1 small red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into slivers
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves
Sea salt
1 quart homemade gelatinous chicken stock, clarified (here)
Lettuce leaves, sliced tomatoes, and lemon wedges
In a medium bowl, combine the chicken meat, green onions, bell pepper, and tarragon. Season with salt.
Pour 1 cup of the stock into a saucepan and heat it until liquid. Grease a 6-cup mold, pour the stock into the mold, and chill it until jelled, about 2 hours. Arrange the chicken meat mixture over the jelled stock. Heat the remaining stock until liquid and pour it over the chicken. Chill until jellied, about 2 hours.
To serve, dip the mold briefly into hot water and invert onto a chilled plate. Return to the refrigerator to chill for about 1 hour. Slice into wedges and serve on lettuce leaves with sliced tomatoes and lemon wedges.
Eggs in Aspic (Oeufs en Gelée)
This is a classic French dish, rarely prepared at home, but purchased ready-made in local shops. It often serves as a meal for children or as a first course at an elegant dinner. Special oval molds give this dish a distinctive look.
Serves 4
1½ cups homemade gelatinous chicken broth, clarified (see here)
3 tablespoons port wine
Sea salt
Up to 2 tablespoons Great Lakes gelatin, as needed
2 bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch diamonds
4 eggs, poached and chilled
Microgreens
In a medium bowl, combine the broth with the wine, salt to taste, and chill to determine the thickness of the gel. If it is only lightly gelled, measure 1½ teaspoons gelatin into a small bowl; if fairly firm, measure ¾ teaspoon. If very firm, no gelatin is needed. Pour the broth into a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add about ½ cup of the simmering stock to the gelatin and whisk to dissolve. Whisk the gelatin mixture into the pan. Turn off the heat and let cool.
Grease four 4-ounce oval aspic molds. Spoon about 2 teaspoons of the cooled broth into each mold. Chill until almost set, 8 to 10 minutes. Arrange 6 pepper diamonds, skin side up, in each mold on top of the aspic; top with 1 tablespoon cooled broth. Chill until set. Transfer the poached eggs to paper towels and trim away any ragged edges. Put an egg inside each mold and cover the egg by ¼ inch with the remaining aspic. Chill until completely set, about 2 hours.
To serve, dip the molds briefly into hot water and invert onto individual chilled plates. Keep refrigerated until you are ready to serve. Serve with microgreens.
Tomato Aspic
Arabella Forge, Richmond, Australia
Serves 6 as an appetizer
1½ cups homemade gelatinous stock made with calves’ feet, pigs’ feet, or chicken feet
1 to 2 teaspoons Great Lakes gelatin
2 cups tomato juice (see Note)
½ teaspoon paprika
Juice of 1 large lemon
Generous dash of Tabasco sauce
Sliced cucumbers or cucumber salad
Chill the stock to determine the thickness of the gel. If it is only lightly gelled, measure 2 teaspoons gelatin into a small bowl; if it is very firm, measure 1 teaspoon. Pour the broth into a medium saucepan, add the bay leaves, and bring to a simmer. Add about ½ cup of the simmering stock to the gelatin and whisk to dissolve. Then whisk the gelatin mixture into the pan, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and let cool to room temperature.
In a large bowl, whisk the stock with the tomato juice, paprika, lemon juice, and Tabasco. Grease 6 individual half-cup molds, pour the stock into the molds, and refrigerate until set, about 4 hours. To serve, dip briefly into hot water and invert onto chilled individual plates. Keep refrigerated until you are ready to serve. Garnish with sliced cucumbers or cucumber salad and serve.
Note: You can make your own tomato juice. Puree 5 to 6 very ripe tomatoes in a food processor or blender and strain through a strainer for 2 cups tomato juice.
Raspberry and Mint Jelly
Arabella Forge, Richmond, Australia
Serves 6 to 8
2¼ cups gelatinous Simple Slow Cooker Pig’s Foot Broth (here), clarified (here)
2 cups packed raspberries
1½ tablespoons honey
Up to 4 teaspoons Great Lakes beef gelatin
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh mint leaves
Fresh fruit (optional)
Chill the broth to determine the thickness of the gel.
Combine the raspberries and honey in a large saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer; simmer for 10 minutes, mashing and stirring frequently, until most of the liquid is evaporated. Add the stock, turn the heat off, and whisk to combine well.
Measure the total volume in the saucepan. If the stock was liquidy before cooking, use 1 teaspoon gelatin per cup of total volume. If your stock was jellylike and wobbly, use ½ teaspoon gelatin per cup, and if it was nicely firm (could be tipped upside down without falling out of the container), don’t add any gelatin.
Place the needed gelatin in a small bowl, return the stock to a simmer, and whisk in about 1 cup of the simmering liquid to dissolve the gelatin. Add the gelatin mixture back into the saucepan and whisk well. Remove from the heat and stir in the mint leaves. Pour the mixture into individual ½-cup jelly molds or 1 quart-size mold and refrigerate until set, about 3 hours.
To serve, dip the molds or mold briefly into hot water and invert onto individual chilled plates. Chill again and keep refrigerated until serving time. Serve decorated with fresh fruit if you like.
Apple and Grape Jelly
Arabella Forge, Richmond, Australia
Serves 6
2¼ cups gelatinous Simple Slow Cooker Pig’s Foot Broth (here), clarified (here)
3 medium to large apples, peeled and cut into quarters
1½ tablespoons honey
1 cinnamon stick
2 whole cloves
2 cardamom pods
Up to 2 teaspoons Great Lakes gelatin
¾ to 1 cup grapes, cut in half
Fresh fruit (optional)
Chill the broth to determine the thickness of the gel.
In a large saucepan, combine the stock, apples, honey, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom, place over medium heat, and bring to a gentle simmer; cook for 20 minutes, stirring frequently and mashing the apples. Remove from the heat and strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl, pressing the apples against the strainer to extract all the liquid.
Measure the total volume in the saucepan. If the stock was liquidy before cooking, use 1 teaspoon gelatin per cup of total volume. If your stock was jellylike and wobbly, add ½ teaspoon per cup; and if it was nicely firm (could be tipped upside down without falling out of the container), don’t add any gelatin. Return the stock to the saucepan and bring to a simmer.
Place the gelatin in a small bowl and whisk in about 1 cup simmering liquid to dissolve the gelatin, then return the gelatin mixture back to the saucepan and whisk well.
Grease 6 individual jelly molds and place a handful of grapes at the bottom of each mold. Pour the mixture into the molds, refrigerate immediately, and chill until set, about 3 hours.
To serve, dip the molds briefly into hot water and invert onto chilled plates. Chill again and keep refrigerated until serving time. Decorate with fresh fruit if you like and serve.
Strawberry Aspic
Serves 10
4 cups strawberries, hulled
Juice of 1 lemon, strained
2 to 3 tablespoons honey
3 cups gelatinous Simple Slow Cooker Pig’s Foot Broth (here)
2 teaspoons Great Lakes gelatin
Fresh fruit (optional)
Puree the strawberries in a food processor or blender. Strain through a strainer into a bowl, pressing on the solids to extract all the liquid. Whisk the lemon juice and honey into the puree.
Bring the broth to a boil in a medium saucepan. Put the gelatin into a bowl, spoon a little broth into the gelatin, and whisk until melted. Whisk the melted gelatin back into the broth and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes.
Whisk the broth into the strawberry puree. Grease 10 individual molds, pour the mixture into the molds, and chill until set, about 3 hours. To serve, dip the molds briefly into hot water and invert onto individual chilled plates. Chill again and keep refrigerated until serving time. Decorate with fresh fruit if you like and serve.