These graphic place mats will brighten up any table. Made using brightly coloured jelly roll strips, cut and pieced together, they are simplicity itself.
• 12 jelly roll strips
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of background fabric
• 1 yard (0.9m) of fabric for backing
• 4 pieces of wadding (batting) 18in (45.7cm) square
• Spray starch (optional)
Size: 141⁄2in (36.8cm) square
From the jelly roll strips choose: six for the placemats; and six for the binding. Remove the selvages and cut all strips in half.
From the background fabric cut: four squares, 61⁄2in (16.5cm); one strip, 61⁄2in × 22in (16.5cm × 55.9cm); two strips, 21⁄2in × 22in (6.3cm × 55.9cm); and eight strips, 21⁄2in × 61⁄2in (6.3cm × 16.5cm).
From the backing fabric cut four squares, 18in (45.7cm).
Unit A
Take seven half jelly roll strips and lay them out side by side until you are happy with the order. Sew the strips together to form one piece measuring 141⁄2in × approximately 22in (36.8cm × approximately 55.9cm).
Unit B
Take three half jelly roll strips and lay them out side by side until you are happy with the order. Sew the strips together to form one piece measuring 61⁄2in × approximately 22in (16.5cm × approximately 55.9cm).
Unit C
Take the 61⁄2in × 22in (16.5cm × 55.9cm) strip of background fabric and the two remaining half jelly roll strips and sew one to the bottom and one to the top of the background piece.
Take the two 21⁄2in × 22in (6.3cm × 55.9cm) background fabric strips and sew one to the bottom and one to the top of the background piece. The piece should measure 141⁄2in × 22in (36.8cm × 55.9cm).
Press all seams open to reduce bulk. Some spray starch may be useful at this point to get the piece to lay flat.
Unit A
Square the edge and then cut each piece down the length so that you have eight strips, each measuring 21⁄2in × 141⁄2in (6.3cm × 36.8cm).
Unit B
Square the edge and then cut each piece down the length so that you have eight strips, 21⁄2in × 61⁄2in (6.3cm × 16.5cm).
Unit C
Square the edge and then cut each piece down the length so that you have eight strips, 21⁄2in × 141⁄2in (6.3cm × 36.8cm).
For each place mat you will need two strips from each of unit A, B and C. You will also need one 61⁄2in (16.5cm) square and two 21⁄2in × 61⁄2in (6.3cm × 16.5cm) strips of background fabric.
Using the diagram as a guide, lay out all the pieces for the four place mats until you are happy with the placement. Sew the units together, pressing seams as you go.
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and place mat and baste using your chosen method.
Join the binding strips into four groups of two and press in half lengthways. Join one binding strip to the front of each place mat and hand stitch the binding to the back.
This is the perfect winter table runner, ideal for Christmas and other holiday celebrations, but simple and cheerful enough to adorn your dining table throughout those long, cold months of autumn and winter.
• 4 fat eighths of focus fabric in colour A
• 3 fat eighths of focus fabric in colour B
• 3⁄4 yard (0.7m) of background fabric
• 1 yard (0.9m) of backing fabric
• Piece of binding fabric, 10in (25.4cm) × width of fabric
• Piece of cotton wadding (batting) at least 18in × 74in (45.7cm × 188cm)
• Fabric marking pencil
• 3⁄4 yard (0.7m) of fusible web
Size: 14in × 70in (35.6cm × 177.8cm)
Take three fat eighths of colour A and two of colour B and from each cut two squares, 9in × 9in (22.9cm × 22.9cm).
Take the remaining fat eighth of colour A and cut eight strips, 13⁄4in × 9in (4.4cm × 22.9cm).
Take the remaining fat eighth of colour B and cut 12 strips, 13⁄4in × 9in (4.4cm × 22.9cm).
From the background fabric cut 20 squares, 9in × 9in (22.9cm × 22.9cm).
From the backing fabric cut two strips, 18in (45.7cm) × width of fabric. Remove the selvages.
From the binding fabric cut four strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) × width of fabric.
Take a 9in (22.9cm) square of background fabric and lay a 9in (22.9cm) square of print fabric on top of it so that the edges are aligned.
Take your ruler and draw a line with a fabric marking pencil from one corner to the other. Using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew a line in from both sides of the drawn line. Cut the square diagonally in half down the drawn line. Press the seams open. Complete this for all ten squares.
Take two of the half-square triangle units and lay one on top of the other with both diagonal seams facing the same way, but ensure that the coloured side of the top piece is placed over the background side of the bottom one and vice versa.
Ensure that the seams are lined up as accurately as possible and pin together. Take your ruler and draw a line from one corner to the other, but the opposite corners to the ones that already have the seams.
Using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew a line in from both sides of the drawn line. Cut the block diagonally in half down the drawn line. Press the seams open. Complete this for all blocks.
Using the diagram as a guide, lay out the small blocks. Sew the four blocks together to make one larger block. Complete these for all of the squares so that you have five blocks in total. Trim the blocks to 141⁄2in × 141⁄2in (36.8cm × 36.8cm) square.
Take one each of the 13⁄4in (4.4cm) strips and sew them together. Press the seams open to avoid the strip distorting and to reduce bulk.
Cut each strip in half across the width. Turn round one of the pieces and sew it back on to the end, ensuring that the centre seams are aligned.
You must ensure that the placement of the two fabrics is exactly as shown in the diagram, as when the holly leaves are added to the blocks the focus fabric needs to be placed where the background fabric is on the blocks.
Place the holly template on to the fusible web and draw around it. You will need 20 holly shapes. Cut them out roughly.
On to the back of each strip, place a fusible web holly leaf and align the points of the leaves exactly on each seam. Press following the manufacturer’s instructions to adhere the leaves to the blocks. Cut out accurately along the drawn lines.
Take a block of fabric A and four leaves of fabric B. Place the holly leaves on to the blocks following the diagram, making sure that all the seams are aligned with the blocks’ seams. Once you are happy with the placement, press the blocks following the manufacturer’s instructions to adhere the leaves to the blocks.
Lay the five blocks out in a row, alternating the two colours until you are happy with the placement. Sew the row of blocks together and press the seams open.
Sew the two back pieces together end to end so that you have a piece measuring approximately 18in × 84in (45.7cm × 213.4cm).
Layer the backing, wadding (batting) and table runner and baste using your chosen method.
Start quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges. As you reach the holly leaves, stitch around them approximately 1⁄8in (0.6cm) from the edge of each holly leaf to fix them permanently to the table runner.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams open. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press.
Join the binding to the front of the table runner using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back.
This graphic patterned bathmat uses vividly coloured fabric in a simple yet traditional churn dash design to great effect. Backing the mat with a bath towel ensures this project will have a practical as well as aesthetic application.
• 9 layer cake squares of focus fabric
• 11 layer cake squares for background
• 1 fat eighth for block centres (if you are fussy cutting the centres you may need more to yield 9 motifs)
• 1 bath towel
• 1 piece of cotton wadding (batting) at least 28in × 40in (71.1cm × 101.6cm)
• Perle cotton or embroidery floss for hand quilting
• 1 fat quarter for binding
Size: 24in × 36in (61cm × 91.4cm)
From each of the nine focus fabric and nine background fabric pieces cut two squares, 5in × 5in (12.7cm × 12.7cm); and four strips, 21⁄2in × 10in (6.3cm × 25.4cm).
From the background fabric squares cut 12 strips, 1in × 10in (2.5cm × 25.4cm); cross-cut these strips to yield 12 strips, 1in × 31⁄2in (2.5cm × 8.9cm) and 12 strips, 1in × 41⁄2in (2.5cm × 11.4cm).
From the centre fabric cut nine squares, 41⁄2in × 41⁄2in (11.4cm × 11.4cm).
From the bath towel cut one square, 241⁄2in × 241⁄2in (62.2cm × 62.2cm).
From the binding fabric cut seven strips, 21⁄2in × 22in (6.3cm × 55.9cm).
To each side of the six centre squares, sew a 1in × 31⁄2in (2.5cm × 8.9cm) strip of background fabric. Press seams outwards. To each end of the centre squares, sew a 1in × 41⁄2in (2.5cm × 11.4cm) strip of background fabric. Press seams outwards and if necessary trim to 41⁄2in (11.4cm).
For each block take two 5in (12.7cm) squares of focus and two 5in (12.7cm) squares of background fabric. Lay them on top of each other; draw a line from one corner to the other.
Using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew a line in from both sides of the drawn line. Cut the square diagonally in half down the drawn line. Press the seams open. Complete this for all ten squares and trim each one to 41⁄2in (11.4cm) square.
Take the two 21⁄2in × 10in (6.3cm × 25.4cm) strips of focus fabric and sew each one to a 21⁄2in × 10in (6.3cm × 25.4cm) strip of background fabric. Press the seams and then cut each strip into two 41⁄2in (11.4cm) squares.
Using the diagram below, sew the half-square triangles, strips and centres together to form a churn dash block. Press seams as you go along. Repeat for all the blocks and trim the blocks to 121⁄2in (31.7cm) square.
Lay the six blocks out in two rows of three until you are happy with the placement.
Sew each row of blocks together and press the seams. Sew the rows together until the bath mat top is complete. Press the seams as you go along.
Layer the bath towel, cotton wadding (batting) and bathmat top and baste using your chosen method.
Lightly quilt the bathmat through all the layers to secure the towel backing to the top.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the bathmat using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the bath mat.
To make the hand quilting a little easier when quilting through both the top and the towel backing, choose areas to hand quilt that have the least seams.
Create a wow factor in your living room with this fabulous cushion. The different shapes of the patches are echoed within the design by repeating lines and circles of quilting on the background fabric, creating an eyecatching effect.
• 8 layer cake pieces of print fabric
• 1 yard (0.9m) of fabric for cushion back
• 8 layer cake pieces of background fabric
• 2 yards (1.8m) of muslin (or similar) for cushion lining
• 1 fat quarter for binding
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 32in × 32in (81.3cm × 81.3cm)
• 1⁄4 yard (0.2m) of co-ordinating thin or cord elastic
• Template plastic or cardboard
• Jenny Pedigo curved ruler (optional)
• 30in (76.2cm) cushion pad
Size: 291⁄2in (74.9cm) square
From the layer cake pieces of both the print fabric and background fabric cut all 16 pieces in half diagonally.
From the cushion lining fabric cut one 34in (86.4cm)square; and two pieces, 16in × 291⁄2in (40.6cm × 74.9cm).
From the cushion back fabric cut one 291⁄2in (74.9cm) square; and two pieces, 16in × 291⁄2in (40.6cm × 74.9cm).
From the elastic cut three 3in (7.6cm) pieces.
From the binding fabric cut six strips, 21⁄2in × 22in (6.3cm × 55.9cm).
Follow the instructions for the Circles Squared quilt to cut the curved pieces and make the basic blocks.
Lay out the completed blocks using the photo of the cushion as a guide. Once you are happy with the placement, sew each row together and press seams. Then sew the rows together. Press seams. Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and cushion top. Quilt as for the Circles Squared quilt. Trim the quilted cushion top to 291⁄2in (74.9cm) square.
To add the elastic buttonholes, take one cushion back piece and the elastic pieces. Fold each in half and place the first one in the centre of the top, and the second and third pieces halfway between the centre and the edge. Pin in place. Backstitch the elastic 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the edge to secure.
Place each of the two cushion back pieces right side up and lay a lining piece on top, aligning the long edges. Sew a seam down the long edge of each piece.
Turn each piece so that the right sides are facing outwards, and press. Topstitch down the long edge.
Lay the cushion front face down. Lay each of the back pieces right side out, so that the raw edges are aligned with the cushion edge and the topstitched edges overlap in the centre of the cushion. Ensure that the piece with the elastic loops is on the top. Pin firmly in place.
Sew around the edge of the cushion to secure all the layers. Remove all pins. Bind the edges following the instructions for the Circles Squared quilt.
This delightful iPad case is made using machine-pieced fabric blocks stitched in rows to form a decorative diamond pattern. Choose fabric colours to co-ordinate with your wardrobe for a truly individual style.
• 7 charm squares
• 1 fat quarter of muslin or scrap fabric
• 1 fat quarter for back and lining
• 2 pieces of wadding (batting) at least 11in × 13in (28cm × 33cm)
• 3in (7.6cm) of narrow elastic
• Button
Size: 81⁄4in × 93⁄4in (20.9cm × 24.8cm)
From each of the charm squares cut four squares, 21⁄2in × 21⁄2in (6.3cm × 6.3cm).
From the muslin fabric cut two pieces, 11in × 13in (28cm × 33cm).
From the back and lining fabric cut three pieces, 83⁄4in × 101⁄2in (22.2cm × 26.7cm).
Using the diagram as a guide, lay out the small squares in rows until you are happy with the placement.
Taking a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, join each row of blocks together and press the seams open. Sew the rows together, ensuring that the seams of each row are lined up with each other. Press the seams towards the outside of the piece.
Layer up the muslin, wadding (batting) and iPad front top and quilt as desired. Trim the front to 81⁄2in × 101⁄2in (21.6cm × 26.7cm) using the diagram below as a guide.
Repeat this for the back and trim to 83⁄4in × 101⁄2in (22.2cm × 26.7cm).
Fold the length of elastic in half and place it in the centre of the right side of the case front, so that the raw edges of the elastic are lined up with the raw edges of the front piece. Pin the elastic in place and backstitch over the ends 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the edge to secure. Place the front and back pieces right sides together so that the elastic is at the top. Sew both sides and the bottom together with a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Turn right sides out.
Place both the lining pieces right sides together and sew together along the two sides and bottom, leaving a 3in (7.6cm) gap at the bottom. Put the iPad cover inside the lining so that the two right sides are facing each other. Pin so that the side seams of each piece match each other. Sew all the way around the top 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the edge.
Turn the whole thing right side out through the hole in the bottom of the lining. Flatten the top seam. Pin through all layers and topstitch 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down from the top of the bag. Tuck the raw edges inside and sew the bottom seam of the lining closed. Sew the button securely in the centre of the middle square at the top of the case.
Have fun making this cheerful starburst bag in a multitude of bright colours. The hardest part is folding the triangles accurately, but once you’ve mastered this, it’s a case of colours by numbers!
• 16 jelly roll strips
• 1 fat quarter of muslin
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of home decor weight fabric
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of lining fabric
• Glue stick
Size: 141⁄2in × 141⁄2in × 4in (36.8cm × 36.8cm × 10.2cm) with a 43in (109.2cm) strap
From the jelly roll strips cut the following 21⁄2in (6.3cm) squares: five squares for round 1; eight squares for round 2; 16 squares for round 3; 16 squares for round 4; 16 squares for round 5; 16 squares for round 6; 32 squares for round 7; 32 squares for round 8; 32 squares for round 9; 15 squares for round 10; 28 squares for round 11; 12 squares for round 12; and four squares for round 13 (cut this from the remainder of the round 1 or round 2 strip).
From the muslin cut one 14in (35.6cm) square.
From the home décor weight fabric cut: one 141⁄2in (36.8cm) square; two pieces, 41⁄2in × 141⁄2in (11.4cm × 36.8cm); two pieces, 21⁄2in × 11in (6.3cm × 27.9cm); two pieces, 21⁄2in × 141⁄2in (6.3cm × 36.8cm); and two pieces, 21⁄2in × 42in (6.3cm × 106.7cm).
From the lining fabric cut: one piece, 41⁄2in × 61⁄2in (11.4cm × 16.5cm); one piece, 61⁄2in × 141⁄2in (16.5cm × 36.8cm); and two pieces, 21⁄2in × 42in (6.3cm × 106.7cm).
Keep one square from round 1 to one side, and fold all the rest of the squares from all the rounds in half and press.
Fold in each the two sides to form a triangle and press.
Round 1: In the centre of the 14in (35.6cm) square of muslin draw an 11in (27.9cm) square. Find the centre of the muslin and the 21⁄2in (6.3cm) square. Place the 21⁄2in square in the very centre of the muslin. A swipe of glue stick will hold the square in place.
Take the four co-ordinating triangles of folded fabric and place them on top of the centre square as per the diagram.
Attach the triangles to the muslin by sewing a seam 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the raw edge.
Round 2: Take four triangles from the round 2 pieces and place the points of each of them 1⁄2in (1.3cm) from the points of round 1.
Take the remaining four triangles and place the points of each of them 1⁄2in (1.3cm) from the centre.
Attach the triangles to the muslin by sewing a seam 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the raw edge.
Rounds 3, 4, 5 and 6: Take eight triangles and place the points of each of them 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the points of the previous round. Take the eight remaining triangles and place them in between the first eight, ensuring that the points are 1⁄2in (1.3cm) from the points where the round 2 triangles overlap.
To ensure that the size is as accurate as possible, make sure that the points of a round are not placed any further than 1⁄2in (1.3cm) from the points of the last round.
Add rounds 4, 5 and 6 in the same way, ensuring that you secure the triangles to the muslin by sewing a seam 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the raw edge after each round.
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: Take 16 triangles and place the points of each of them 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the points of the previous round. Take the 16 remaining triangles and place them in between the first 16, ensuring that the points are 1⁄2in (1.3cm) from the points where the round 2 triangles overlap or the points of the previous round.
Ensure that you secure the triangles to the muslin by sewing a seam 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the raw edge after each round.
Rounds 10, 11, 12 and 13: The remaining four rounds are not true rounds but just make up the corners to take the shape from a circle to a square. Add these in the same way as the full rounds, but instead add to each of the four corners.
Once all pieces have been placed, redraw the 11in (27.9cm) square on top of the edge of the triangles. Sew a seam 1⁄8in (0.3cm) in from the drawn line.
Trim the piece along the drawn line.
Take the two 21⁄2in × 11in (6.3cm × 27.9cm) strips and sew one on to each side of the front panel. Press seams. Take the two 21⁄2in × 141⁄2in (6.3cm × 36.8cm) strips and sew one on to each side of the front panel. Press seams outwards. Topstitch around the front panel.
Take a 21⁄2in × 42in (6.3cm × 106.7cm) strip of bag fabric and a 21⁄2in × 42in (6.3cm × 106.7cm) strip of lining fabric and sew them together down one long edge. Press the seam open.
With right sides down, fold in each edge until it meets the edge of the seam allowance and press.
Fold the handle in half down the seam, press and pin. Topstitch the handle 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down each side. Repeat for the second handle.
Take the front panel and, with right sides together, sew one of the 41⁄2in × 141⁄2in (11.4cm × 36.8cm) side panels on to each side, stopping 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the bottom. Take the back panel and, with right sides together, sew this on to each of the side panels, stopping 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the bottom. With right sides together, sew in the bottom panel. Turn right sides out.
Repeat these steps for the lining but leaving a 6in (15.2cm) portion of the bottom panel unsewn. Leave inside out.
Place the edges of the handle 31⁄2in (8.9cm) in from the side seams and pin. Secure the handle in place by sewing 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the top edge.
Place the bag inside the lining, align the raw edges and, using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew around the top of the bag.
Turn the whole bag right side out through the hole in the lining. Flatten the top seam. Pin through all layers and topstitch 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down from the top of the bag. Tuck the raw edges of the hole in the lining and sew the lining closed.
Quick and easy to make, this quirky bag charm will give a new lease of life to an old handbag or rucksack. Choose fabric colours either to tone with the bag, or provide a colourful contrast.
• 1 jelly roll strip
• 2 charm squares
• Scrap of fabric at least 13⁄4in (4.4cm) square
• Strong thread
• Bag charm lobster clasp
• 3⁄4in (1.9cm) button
Size: 31⁄8in × 41⁄2in (8cm × 11.4cm)
From the jelly roll strip cut 11 squares, 21⁄2in (6.3cm). From ten of these squares cut ten shapes using template A.
From one charm square cut a circle using template B.
From the second charm square cut one strip, 2in × 5in (5cm × 12.7cm), for the strap.
From the fabric scrap cut one circle using template C.
Fold each flower petal circle in half and press. With strong thread, sew running stitches 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the raw edge from one flat side to the other. Pull the flower petals up tightly. Repeat for the remaining nine petals so that you have ten in total. Sew through all ten petals and pull them in tightly to form the flower. Stitch to secure.
Take the circle cut from template B and place right side down. Fold the edge in by 1⁄4in (0.6cm) and, as you do so, sew a running stitch all around the circle using strong thread.
When you have stitched all the way around the circle, pull the thread tightly so that the edges gather into the centre. Stitch to secure in the centre.
Fold the strap piece in half with right sides together and sew a seam 1⁄4in (0.6cm) down the long edge. Turn right sides out, press flat and topstitch 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from each edge.
Take the lobster clasp and thread the strap through the bottom of the clasp. Align the raw edges together and sew on to the back of the flower.
Take the circle cut from template B and, using the strong thread, sew a running stitch approximately 1⁄4in (0.6cm) long all around the edge. Pull the thread to gather slightly and then insert the button. Pull the threads tightly and secure.
Sew the button into the centre of the yoyo, then stitch the yoyo down to the front of the flower.
Take the circle cut from template C and, using the strong thread, sew a running stitch approximately 1⁄4in (0.6cm) long all around the edge. Pull the thread to gather slightly and then insert the plastic template A that was used to cut the flower petals. Pull the threads tightly and secure leaving the plastic template inside. Stitch to the back of the flower.
This pretty project uses pre-cut charm squares to create a simple yet decorative sewing accessory. Place it on a table or shelf near your work to avoid the problems of dropped pins and scattered loose threads.
• 1 mini charm pack (40 squares)
• 2 pieces of muslin or scrap fabric at least 41⁄2in × 61⁄2in (11.4cm × 16.5cm)
• 1 fat eighth for lining and pincushion base
• 1 fat eighth of medium-weight fusible interfacing
• Small quantity of play sand
• 1⁄3 yard (0.3m) of polyester boning, 1⁄2in (1.3cm) wide
• Masking tape
Size: 51⁄4in × 9in × 31⁄8in (13.3cm × 22.9cm × 7.9cm)
From the interfacing cut one piece, 41⁄2in × 61⁄2in (11.4cm × 16.5cm) and one piece, 81⁄2in × 141⁄2in (21.6cm × 36.8cm).
From the lining fabric cut one piece, 41⁄2in × 6 1⁄2in (11.4cm × 16.5cm) and one piece, 61⁄2in × 141⁄2in (16.5cm × 36.8cm).
From the polyester boning cut one strip, 14in (35.6cm) long.
From the muslin cut two pieces, 41⁄2in × 61⁄2in (11.4cm × 16.5cm).
Take 28 mini charm squares and lay them out seven squares across and four squares down. Once you are happy with the placement, sew these together into rows, and then join the rows together. Press seams open as you go along.
Iron the larger piece of interfacing on to the back of the thread catcher piece. If required, trim to 81⁄2in × 141⁄2in (21.6cm × 35.6cm).
Take six mini charm squares and lay them out three squares across and two squares down. Once you are happy with the placement, sew these together into rows, and then join the rows together. Press seams open as you go along.
Iron the smaller piece of interfacing on to the back of the pincushion piece. If necessary, trim to 41⁄2in × 61⁄2in (11.4cm × 16.5cm).
To make the tabs that attach the pincushion to the thread catcher, take two mini charm squares. Fold these in half and sew down the raw edge using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Turn the tabs right side out using a safety pin and flatten so that the seam runs down the centre of each strip. Press flat.
Substitute fancy printed or embroidered ribbons for the tabs. There are some amazing embroidered ribbons and cotton tapes available.
Take the stitched pincushion piece and place the edges of the tabs about 1in (2.5cm) from the edge of the top. Sew them 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the edge to hold them in place.
Place the smaller piece of lining fabric on top of the pincushion piece, right sides together so the tabs are sandwiched in between. Using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam allowance, and making sure that the ends of the tabs are tucked in, sew around the edge of the piece leaving a 3in (7.6cm) opening at one end. Turn the pincushion right sides out.
Take the stitched thread catcher piece (see Step 1) and fold it in half lengthways, right sides together. Sew a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam down the edge. Press the seam open. Lay the piece down and flatten with the seam running down the centre. Sew up the bottom edge with a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. To square the bottom corners of the thread catcher bag, flatten the corners, pin and draw a line 11⁄2in (3.8cm) from the point (see the diagram).
Trim off the excess fabric. Turn the bag right side out. Repeat this step for the larger lining fabric piece but leave approximately 3in (7.6cm) of the bottom seam unstitched, and do not turn the bag right side out.
This design can readily be adapted to make a larger work bag in which you can store quilting work in progress. Simply scale up the fabric measurements to suit. Alternatively, you could add useful patch pockets to the outside of the thread catcher before you sew it up into a bag.
Place the pincushion on the top of the thread catcher bag with the wrong side of the tabs facing the right side of the bag (see the diagram). Pin the tabs to the bag with the inside edges of each tab approximately 1⁄2in (1.3cm) from the back seam. Sew a seam 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the edge to hold the tabs in place.
Put the thread catcher bag inside the lining so that the two rights sides are facing each other. Pin together so that the back seams of each piece match each other. Sew all the way around the top 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the edge.
Take the two muslin pieces and place them on top of each other. Sew around the edge 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the edge leaving part of one end open. Fill the bag quite firmly with play sand and stitch the opening closed. Gently insert the pincushion inner into the pincushion. It should be a tight fit so be gentle. Then stitch the pincushion opening closed.
Sand is great to use as a pincushion filling as it help to keep your pins and needles sharp and the weight is great for holding your pincushion on your sewing table. Other alternatives you could use are wool, as the lanolin helps prevent rusting, or even crushed walnut shells.
Turn the thread catcher bag right side out through the hole in the bottom of the lining. Flatten the seam. Pin through all layers to hold in place and topstitch around the top of the bag 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down from the edge.
Tape the ends of the polyester boning together using masking tape. Insert it through the hole and in the lining and manipulate the ring so that it lies at the very top of the thread catcher between the lining and the outside piece; you will find that this is easy to do as the polyester boning is quite flexible. Pin just below it to hold it in place. Stitch just below the boning to form a channel. Fold the thread catcher bag in half so that a crease is formed at each side and so that the boning forms an oval shape. Tuck the raw edges of the hole inside and sew the bottom seam of the lining closed.
Replace your workplace lanyard with this decorative jelly roll version which is quick and easy to make. Charm squares are used to create yoyo flowers which are then glued to your card holder.
• 1 jelly roll strip
• 2 charm squares
• Decorative button
• Retractable card holder with carabiner top
• Rigid swipe card holder
• Very strong multi-surface glue
• Compass
Size: 21⁄4in × 23in (5.7cm × 58.4cm)
Fold the jelly roll strip in half with right sides together. Sew down the length of the jelly roll using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Using a safety pin, turn the fabric tube the right way out. Press the tube so the seam runs down the middle.
Lay the lanyard out with both ends the right way up and the seam running down the back off each end, and overlap the ends. Ensure the strip is not twisted.
Place the ends together so the seam is on the outside of the top piece and on the inside of the bottom piece. Sew a seam 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the end, backstitching at each end.
Turn the strip back the right way around so the raw ends and the seam are on the inside. Sew a seam 1⁄2in (1.3cm) from the end to enclose the raw ends and again backstitch at each end.
On one of the two charm squares draw a 41⁄2in (11.4cm) circle using a compass. On the other charm square draw a 31⁄2in (8.9cm) circle. Cut out the shapes along the drawn lines.
To make the yoyos, turn over the large circle so that the wrong side is facing. Using a double thickness of thread, sew a running stitch 1⁄4in (0.6cm) long all around the edge, folding the edge in by 1⁄4in (0.6cm)as you go.
When you have stitched all the way around the circle, pull the thread tightly so that the edges gather into the centre. Stitch to secure in the centre.
Complete the smaller yoyo in the same way.
Layer the two yoyos on top of each other. Sew them together securely through the centre. Then sew the decorative button in the centre. Glue the yoyo flower into the middle of the retractable card holder or rigid swipe card holder using strong glue, and slip the lanyard on to the carabiner loop.
Add a bit of class and distinction to your stitching notebook with this stylish fabric cover embellished with a decorative hexagon design. This project is made using English paper piecing, a traditional method of patchwork which is simple and fun to do.
• 2 charm squares for flowers
• Fabric scraps for flower centres
• 1 fat quarter for background
• 1 layer cake square for background of flowers
• 1 piece of heavy fusible interfacing at least 10in × 141⁄2in (25.4cm × 36.8cm)
• 1 A5 wire-bound notebook (around 200-250 pages)
Size: 7in × 81⁄2in (17.8cm × 21.6cm)
From the fat quarter cut two pieces, 9in × 141⁄4in (24.1cm × 36.8cm); and two pieces, 31⁄2in × 91⁄2in (8.9cm × 24.1cm).
From the layer cake square cut 12 squares, 2in × 2in (5.1cm × 5.1cm).
From each of the two charm squares cut six squares, 11⁄2in × 11⁄2in (3.8cm × 3.8cm).
From each of two small fabric scraps cut one square, 2in × 2in (5.1cm × 5.1cm).
From the fusible interfacing cut one piece, 91⁄2in × 141⁄4in (24.1cm × 36.8cm).
Copy the hexagon templates and cut out 14 paper hexagons from both the 1in (2.5cm) and the 3⁄4in (1.9cm) sizes.
You will need two flowers in total and for each flower you will need six 1in (2.5cm) hexagons of flower background fabric; six 3⁄4in (1.9cm) hexagons of flower fabric; and one 1in (2.5cm) flower centre.
Tack (baste) all fabric pieces on to the paper templates (see English paper piecing). Arrange and hand sew the background pieces together following the diagram, ensuring that the edges of the pieces are lined up as accurately as possible. Complete both flowers in this way.
Press the flowers and the 3⁄4in (1.9cm) hexagons and carefully remove all the papers. In the centre of each of the background hexagons place a 3⁄4in (1.9cm) hexagon and pin in place. Appliqué the hexagons in place on both flowers. Sew the two flowers together along one of the flower edges.
Fold the outside background piece in half and place the flowers in the centre using your ruler and eye as a guide. Pin securely to the background. Appliqué the flowers in place.
Take the two 31⁄2in × 91⁄2in (8.9cm × 24.1cm) pieces and turn over one long edge on each piece and press. Sew the edge down, about 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the edge.
Take one notebook background piece and lay the fusible interfacing piece on top, glue side down. Press until it is adhered completely. If you are using directional fabric, ensure that the correct edges are turned in.
Lay out the background piece with the fusible interfacing on top. Take the two small pieces and lay one face down at each end, ensuring that the turned-over edge is towards the middle of the piece and that the outer edges are aligned.
Place the remaining background piece on top, face down. Ensure that the edges of all three pieces are aligned then pin all three layers together. Sew around the edge using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Leave a 4in (10.2cm) gap at the bottom for turning. Trim the excess fabric from the corners and turn right side out. Press.
Press the seam allowance of the unsewn section in, and then sew around the edge 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the edge, closing the opening as you go.
Slip the cover on to your notebook and you’re ready to go!
To ensure that the papers stay in position on the fabric while you tack (baste) them, swipe each paper with a glue stick before sticking down on to the fabric, and allow to dry. The papers will still be really easy to remove when the quilt top is complete.
Keep your sewing machine dust-free by tidying it away under this colourful, leafy fabric cover. This eyecatching project cover combines both patchwork and appliqué.
• 7 jelly roll strips (2 different light and 5 different medium or dark tones)
• 1 fat quarter for side panels
• Fabric scraps at least 2in (5cm) square
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of fabric for lining
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 20in × 46in (50.8cm × 116.8cm)
• 3⁄4 yard (0.7m) of narrow ricrac
• Small piece of template plastic
• 1 fat eighth heavyweight fusible interfacing
Size: 17in × 12in × 8in (43.2cm × 30.5cm × 20.3cm)
From the jelly roll strips choose five medium/dark tones for the main body of the sewing machine cover. Sew these together along their length so that you have a piece measuring 101⁄2in × 42in (26.7cm × 106.7cm).
Also from the jelly roll strips choose two light tone strips for the main body of the sewing machine cover. Sew these together along their length so that you have a piece measuring 41⁄2in × 42in (11.4cm × 106.7cm).
From the pieced medium/dark tone strips cut: two pieces, 171⁄2in (44.4cm); and four strips, 13⁄4in (4.4cm).
From the pieced light tone strips cut 12 strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm).
From the fat quarter for the side panels cut two pieces, 81⁄2in × 12in (21.6cm × 30.5cm).
From the fabric scraps cut 24 squares, 2in (5cm).
From the ricrac cut three 9in (22.8cm) lengths.
From the lining fabric cut: one piece, 171⁄2in × 281⁄2in; and two pieces, 81⁄2in × 12in (21.6cm × 30.5cm).
From the wadding (batting) cut: one piece, 20in × 30in (50.8cm × 76.2cm); and two pieces, 10in × 14in (25.4cm × 35.6cm).
Trace the leaf template on to template plastic and cut out. Place the leaf template on to the interfacing and draw around it. You will need 24 of these. Cut them out along the drawn lines.
Iron the leaves on to the back of the fabric scraps, ensuring that there is at least 1⁄4in (0.6cm) all the way around.
Cut away the fabric so that you have about 1⁄4in (0.6cm) of fabric around the leaf, narrowing to around 1⁄8in (0.3cm) as you get to the corners.
Take the glue stick and apply some glue to each corner. Fold the corners in and stick the fabric down.
Apply the glue stick to the rest of the seam allowance and press the fabric inwards, sticking it to the back of the interfacing. When you turn the leaf over so that the right side is facing you, there should be no raw edges visible.
Take the twelve 21⁄2in (6.3cm) strips and separate them into three groups of four. Arrange them in a checkerboard so that no two squares of the same fabric are next to each other. Sew together using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and press seams.
Down the centre seam of each piece, on the right side, place a 9in (22.8cm) length of ricrac. Sew a seam down the centre of the ricrac to attach.
Place the leaves on to the panels, ensuring that the points of the leaves are at least1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the edges. Hand or machine appliqué the leaves down.
Take the four 13⁄4in (4.4cm) strips and the leaf pieces and sew them together, alternating between the strips and the leaf panels. Press seams.
Take the remaining jelly roll strips, cut them in half and sew one piece to the top and one piece to the bottom of the leaf panel. Press seams.
Sew the leaf panel and the strip panel together down the long edge and press seams. You should now have a piece that measures 171⁄2in × 281⁄2in (44.4cm × 72.4cm).
Layer up each of the main body and two side pieces with the wadding (batting) and top and baste using your chosen method. Quilt all pieces as desired.
The width of this sewing machine cover can easily be amended if you have a sewing machine with a larger throat length than normal. Simply increase the width of the strips between the leaf panels or increase the width of the side strips.
Find the centre of the main body and the centre of one of the side pieces, place them right sides together, and pin the pieces together. Sew a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam along the top of the side piece, starting 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from one side and finishing 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the other side.
Turn the side piece around and, with right sides together, match the side seams up. Starting from the beginning/end of the previous seam, sew a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam down each side of the side panel.
Repeat for the other side to complete the outer piece of the sewing machine cover. Turn right sides out.
Repeat all the above steps for the lining, leaving a 6in (15.2cm) portion of one of the side seams unsewn. Leave the lining inside out. Trim off any excess at the bottom of the side panels.
Put the sewing machine cover inside the lining so that the two right sides are facing each other. Pin so that the side seams of each piece match each other. Sew all the way around the top 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the edge.
Turn the whole thing right side out through the hole in the bottom of the lining. Flatten the top seam. Pin through all layers and topstitch 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down from the top of the bag. Tuck the raw edges inside and sew the side seam of the lining closed.
This stylish bag is made from a variety of toning fabrics in black, white and gold using the method of cathedral windows patchwork. Choose colours to match your outfit, or make several bags to wear on different occasions.
• 5 jelly roll strips
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of main fabric for the bag
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of lining fabric
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 22in × 32in (55.9cm × 81.3cm)
Size: 8in × 8in × 13in (20.3cm × 20.3cm × 33cm) with a 21in (53.3cm) strap
Cut each of the jelly roll strips in half. Sew the ten jelly roll strips together along their length so that you have a piece measuring 201⁄2in × 21in (52cm × 53.3cm). Press seams.
From the jelly roll strip piece cut six pieces, 21⁄2in × 201⁄2in (6.3cm × 52cm).
From the bag fabric cut: four pieces, 61⁄2in × 201⁄2in (16.5cm × 52cm); four pieces, 21⁄2in × 201⁄2in (6.3cm × 52cm); and one piece, 21⁄2in × 42in (6.3cm × 106.7cm).
From the lining fabric cut: four pieces, 61⁄2in × 201⁄2in (6.3cm × 52cm); and one piece, 21⁄2in × 42in (6.3cm × 106.7cm).
From the wadding (batting) cut four pieces at least 9in × 23in (22.9cm × 58.4cm).
Take two 21⁄2in × 201⁄2in (6.3cm × 52cm) bag pieces. Fold in half widthways and press.
Take one 21⁄2in × 201⁄2in (6.3cm × 52cm) strip cut from the jelly rolls and lay the two folded bag pieces on top with the folded edges touching and the raw edges of all layers aligned. Sew a seam 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down each edge. On to each side, sew a strip cut from the jelly rolls. Press seams.
Using co-ordinating thread, tack (baste) the folded edges together at 2in (5cm) intervals.
For greater decoration, use a contrasting thread to stitch down the folded-back edges of the centre panel.
Fold the unsewn edges back around as far as you can without distorting the shape of the piece and appliqué them down, so that the fabric underneath is visible. Repeat this for both panels.
Layer up the panels and the 61⁄2in × 201⁄2in bag pieces with the wadding (batting) and lightly quilt.
Lay out the outer pieces as per the diagram and join together using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam.
Turn the side pieces aligning the side seams. Then, starting from the end of the bottom seam, sew a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam down each side of the side panel.
Repeat for all four sides until the bag forms a cube.
Repeat all above steps for the lining but reverse the direction of the pieces and leave a 6in (15.2cm) portion of one of the side seams unsewn. Leave the lining inside out.
Take a 21⁄2in × 42in (6.3cm × 106.7cm) strip of bag fabric and a 21⁄2in × 42in (6.3cm × 106.7cm) strip of lining fabric and sew them together down one long edge. Press the seam open.
With right sides down, fold in each edge until it meets the edge of the seam allowance and press. Fold the handle in half down the seam, press and pin. Topstitch the handle 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down each side. Cut the piece in half.
Lay one of the top corners of one of the bag pieces on the cutting mat so that the raw edge is aligned with the cutting mat lines. Lay your ruler across the top, lining it up with the 11⁄2in (3.8cm) mark. Trim off the corner.
Repeat this for the other three top corners of the bag and the top four corners of the lining.
Place the edges of the handle in the centre of each straight corner edge and pin. Secure the handle in place by sewing 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the top edge.
Put the bag inside the lining so that the two right sides are facing each other. Pin so that the side seams of each piece match each other. Sew all the way around the top 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from the edge. Clip the seams at the bottom of where each panel meets.
Turn the whole thing right side out through the hole in the bottom of the lining. Flatten the top seam. Pin through all layers and topstitch 1⁄8in (0.6cm) down from the top of the bag. Tuck the raw edges inside and sew the side seam of the lining closed.
Create this funky carrier to transport your cutting mat and fabrics. Made from patchwork blocks set at different angles on the background fabric, this design creates a suggestion of movement and flow.
• 1 charm pack (40 squares)
• 11⁄4 yards (1.1m) of background fabric
• 3⁄4 yard (0.7m) of lining fabric
• 2⁄3 yards (0.6m) of wadding (batting)
• 1⁄4 yard (0.2m) of fusible web, 35in (88.9cm) wide
Size: 20in × 26in (50.8cm × 66cm) with a 22in (55.9cm) strap
From the background fabric cut: 40 pieces, 11⁄4in × 5in (3.2cm × 12.7cm); 40 pieces, 11⁄4in × 61⁄2in (3.2cm × 16.5cm); two pieces, 1in × 201⁄2in (2.5cm × 52cm); two pieces, 1in × 261⁄2in (2.5cm × 67.3cm); and one piece, 21in × 261⁄2in (53.3cm × 67.3cm).
From the fusible web cut 20 pieces, 3in (7.6cm) square.
From the lining fabric cut: two pieces, 21in × 261⁄2in (53.3cm × 67.3cm); and one piece, 3in × 42in (7.6cm × 106.7cm).
From the wadding (batting) cut: two pieces, 24in × 30in (61cm × 76.2cm); and two pieces, 11⁄4in × 22in (3.2cm × 55.9cm).
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, press the fusible web squares paper side up on to the back of 20 charm squares. Using the template, draw the flowers on to the paper side of the fusible web.
Cut all flowers out following the drawn lines. You should have 20 flowers in total.
Take 20 charm squares and on to each one randomly place a flower, ensuring that it is placed at least 1⁄4in (0.6cm) from all edges. Once you are happy with the placement, press to adhere the flowers to the charm squares.
Sew around each flower 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the raw edge of the flower to attach it to the base fabric.
Take two 11⁄4in × 5in (3.2cm × 12.7cm) strips and sew one to each side of the square. Press seams outwards.
Take two 11⁄4in × 61⁄2in (3.2cm × 16.5cm) strips and sew one to the top and bottom of the squares. Press seams outwards.
If you prefer and to save time, you could omit the step where you sew around the flowers before quilting, and instead stitch around them as you quilt the bag.
Lay each block on your cutting mat and, following the diagram, make a cut along one side of the block.
Trim each block to 51⁄2in (14cm).
Lay the blocks out in four rows of five until you are happy with the placement. Sew each strip of blocks together and press seams open to reduce bulk. Once each row is joined, sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams open as you go along.
Take the two 1in × 201⁄2in (2.5cm × 52cm) pieces and sew them to the top and bottom. Press seams outwards.
Then take the two 1in × 261⁄2in (2.5cm × 67.3cm) pieces and sew them to each side. Press seams outwards.
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and top and quilt using your chosen method. Repeat for the bag back and wadding (batting). Start your quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges. Trim both pieces to 21in × 261⁄2in (53.3cm × 67.3cm).
Take a 3in × 22in (7.6cm × 55.9cm) strip of bag fabric. Fold in each edge 1⁄4in (0.6cm) and press.
Fold the handle in half and press. Insert a 11⁄4in (3.2cm) strip of wadding (batting) and topstitch the handle 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down each side. Repeat for the second handle.
Take the front and back panels and, with right sides together, sew around three sides. Repeat this for the lining, leaving a 6in (15.2cm) portion of the bottom panel unsewn. Leave inside out.
Place the edges of the handle 71⁄2in (19cm) in from the side seams and pin. Secure the handle in place by sewing 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the top edge.
Just in case you plan to carry multiple mats, rulers and other materials in your bag, stitch across the ends of the handles two or three times to ensure that the handles are securely attached to the bag.
Place the bag inside the lining, align the raw edges at the top and, using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew around the top of the bag. Turn the bag right sides out through the unsewn section in the lining.
Flatten the top seam. Pin through all layers and topstitch 1⁄8in (0.3cm) down from the top of the bag. Tuck the raw edges of the hole in the lining and sew the lining closed.