Early Risers:
BREAKFAST PANCAKES, WAFFLES AND EGGS
WEEKEND MORNINGS ARE TRULY a special time. In contrast to the hustle of weekday mornings, a sense of calm drifts through the house on a Saturday or Sunday morning. At such times, making breakfast together becomes the natural activity. Everyone is relaxed, the kitchen is a fun place to hang out, and there begins many people’s love of cooking and baking to share—whether it be a big stack of pancakes or waffles or a traditional breakfast dish handed down through your family over generations.
Enjoy the serenity of the morning and the time you spend making breakfast and eating together. Or get into your baking groove and make breakfast the start of a full baking day, preparing bread, muffins or cakes for a celebration or just for the week ahead.
RECIPES
Big Buttermilk Breakfast Waffles
Mae Olson’s Pönnukökur (Icelandic Pancakes)
Buckwheat Galettes with Egg, Ham and Cheese
Andy’s Soufflé Pancakes
SIMPLE
Saturday mornings were “Dad time” when I was growing up. Dad took the lead on weekend breakfast, which always meant something fun like pancakes, French toast or—my personal favourite—these soufflé pancakes. This super-simple recipe originally cut from the lid of an egg carton is fancy and fun to make, and I still remember Dad letting me use the hand beaters to whip the egg whites that we’d fold into the yolks. Then I would eat as many of these pancakes while we were making them as ended up on my plate when we served them.
GF option • Serves 4 to 6 (Makes about 16 small pancakes) • Prep Time: 10 minutes • Cook Time: 4 minutes per batch, 16 minutes total
| 3 | large eggs, separated |
| 3 Tbsp (45 mL) | full-fat sour cream |
| 3 Tbsp (24 g) | all-purpose flour (see note) |
| ¼ tsp | baking powder (gluten-free, if needed) |
| ¼ tsp | fine salt |
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Mixed fresh berries and icing sugar, for serving |
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1. Vigorously whisk the egg yolks by hand until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the sour cream. Sift in the flour, baking powder and salt and whisk until smooth.
2. Place the egg whites in a separate bowl. Using electric beaters or a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip the egg whites at high speed until they hold a stiff peak when the beaters are lifted. Quickly but gently fold the whites into the batter by hand in two additions.
3. Heat a skillet or large non-stick pan on medium heat and grease lightly with butter or oil. Use a ladle or large scoop to drop spoonfuls of batter into the pan, leaving 2 inches (5 cm) between each pancake. Let the pancakes cook on one side for about 2 minutes or until golden brown, then flip them and cook for another 2 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter or a plate and cover with a tea towel to keep them warm, but serve them as soon as possible (the pancakes will fall a little once off the heat). Continue cooking until all of the batter has been used.
4. Serve the pancakes with mixed fresh berries (quartered strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and/or blackberries) and a dusting of icing sugar.
note
To make this recipe gluten-free, replace the 3 Tbsp (24 g) all-purpose flour with the same measure of brown rice flour. Let the dry ingredients sit in the egg yolks for a minute before folding in the egg whites so that the rice flour has a chance to hydrate and won’t taste gritty.
Wholegrain Pancakes
SIMPLE
Yes, wholegrain pancakes can be fluffy, tender and tasty. Letting the batter sit for 5 minutes before cooking your pancakes allows the whole wheat flour and oats to absorb the liquid, which keeps the batter light and delicate. I usually prefer regular rolled oats in baking because they hold their shape and texture, but quick-cooking oats work equally well here because they soak up the liquid quickly and still make a fluffy pancake.
Serves 6 (Makes 12 medium pancakes) • Prep Time: Under 10 minutes • Cook Time: 5 minutes per batch
| ¾ cup (110 g) | whole wheat flour |
| ¾ cup (75 g) | regular or quick-cooking rolled oats |
| 1½ tsp | baking powder |
| ½ tsp | baking soda |
| ½ tsp | salt |
| Pinch | ground cinnamon |
| 1¼ cups (310 mL) | buttermilk |
| 1 | large egg (see note) |
| 2 Tbsp (30 mL) | pure maple syrup, plus extra |
| 2 Tbsp (30 g) | butter, melted, or vegetable oil |
1. Stir the flour, oats, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon together in a large bowl. Add the buttermilk, egg, maple syrup and melted butter (or oil) and whisk until combined (a few lumps are OK). Let the batter rest for 5 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 300°F/150°C. Heat a griddle or large non-stick skillet over medium heat and grease lightly with butter (or oil).
3. Drop spoonfuls (roughly ¼ cup/60 mL) of batter onto the griddle and cook until the surface of the pancakes dulls and the bottom is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook until the other side browns lightly, about 2 minutes. Transfer the pancakes to a serving platter or a plate and place them, uncovered, in the oven to keep warm. Cook the remaining batter.
4. Serve the pancakes with warm maple syrup.
note
To make these pancakes egg-free and add extra fibre, stir 2 Tbsp (16 g) ground flaxseed into 3 Tbsp (45 mL) water and let the mixture sit for 2 minutes. Add it with the buttermilk, maple syrup and butter (or oil) instead of the egg.
Dutch Baby
SIMPLE
Like a popover or a Yorkshire pudding, this warm soufflé pancake is baked in a hot pan and is fascinating to watch rise. Pull up a stool in front of the oven and watch the thin crêpe-like batter transform into a giant pillow of fluffy, golden loveliness. This pancake can also double as dessert, topped with fresh berries and scoops of ice cream.
Serves 4 to 6 (Makes 1 large soufflé pancake) • Prep Time: Under 10 minutes • Cook Time: 18 minutes
| ¼ cup (35 g) | all-purpose flour |
| 2 Tbsp (25 g) | granulated sugar |
| 1 tsp | finely grated orange zest |
| Pinch | fine salt |
| ⅔ cup (160 mL) | half-and-half cream |
| 3 | large eggs |
| ¼ tsp | vanilla extract |
| 2 Tbsp (30 g) | butter, melted |
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Icing sugar, pure maple syrup and/or fresh berries or fruit compote, for serving |
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1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C) and place a 9-inch (23 cm) skillet or other cast-iron pan in the oven to heat while you prepare the batter.
2. Whisk the flour, sugar, orange zest and salt in a bowl. Add the cream, eggs and vanilla and whisk well. Whisk in the melted butter right before you bake the pancake.
3. Remove the preheated pan from the oven and brush it with melted butter. Pour in the batter and immediately return the pan to the oven. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the batter rises and inflates and the peaks begin to brown.
4. Remove the pancake from the oven and serve immediately, lightly dusted with icing sugar, before the soufflé begins to fall. Serve with maple syrup, berries or compote on the side.
note
Be sure that everyone is ready to eat when you pop the Dutch Baby into the oven. You’ll want to enjoy it immediately after it comes out of the oven, at its maximum volume.
Big Buttermilk Breakfast Waffles
SIMPLE
Waffles with large crevices are often known as Belgian waffles, and this one most resembles the version served near Brussels. A good waffle should have a nice thin, crisp exterior and a soft, tender centre so the maple syrup cascades over and into every crevice without immediately soaking in. When you cut into your waffle and swish it around your plate, the soft centre picks up that syrup so each bite is sweet and delicious.
Makes 4 to 6 waffles • Prep Time: 20 minutes • Cook Time: 3 minutes per waffle
| 1½ cups (225 g) | all-purpose flour |
| 2 Tbsp (25 g) | granulated sugar |
| 1 Tbsp (10 g) | baking powder |
| ½ tsp | fine salt |
| 1¼ cups (310 mL) | buttermilk |
| ½ cup (125 mL) | vegetable oil |
| 2 | large eggs, separated |
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Yogurt and roasted apricots and/or berries, for serving (see note) |
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1. Stir the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the buttermilk, oil and egg yolks together. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry mixture and stir gently until blended (a few lumps are OK).
2. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites (by hand or with electric beaters) until they hold a soft peak when the whisk or beaters are lifted. Gently fold them into the batter.
3. Preheat your waffle iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions and lightly grease it (if requested in the instructions). Ladle enough batter to fill the iron once closed (the first waffle is your test as to how much batter to use). Cook the waffle until lightly browned and crisp, about 3 minutes depending on the size of your waffle iron. Transfer the waffle to a serving platter to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter until all the waffles are cooked.
4. Serve with yogurt and warm roasted apricots.
note
Waffles can be made ahead. Prepare the batter, except for folding in the egg whites, the night before and refrigerate overnight. Then whip and fold in the egg whites while your waffle iron preheats in the morning. Alternatively, make and cook the waffles ahead of time and refrigerate or freeze them in resealable bags until needed. Simply rewarm them in a 325°F (160°C) oven or in a toaster to crisp up the outsides.
note
Fresh berries are a classic companion to waffles, but roasted apricots are elegant and aromatic. To serve six, cut 12 apricots in half and remove the pit. Toss the fruit with ⅓ cup (80 mL) pure maple syrup, 1 Tbsp (15 g) butter and a splash of fresh lemon juice and vanilla extract. Roast, uncovered, in a 350°F (180°C) oven for about 25 minutes, stirring once or twice until the apricots are tender.
Liège Waffles
More involved
What sets these waffles apart from the Big Buttermilk Breakfast Waffles, which are Brussels-style (this page), is that they are made from a yeasted dough and dotted with pearl sugar (or crushed sugar cubes). When these waffles are pressed on the iron, the sugar caramelizes to yield a waffle with a sweeter taste and a lovely crunch to it. Simply pick up and eat these waffles—no fork and knife required. Or turn them into a decadent dessert, drizzled with caramel or chocolate sauce and a dollop of crème fraîche.
Makes 12 waffles • Prep Time: 15 minutes, plus rising • Cook Time: 3 minutes per waffle
| 1 cup (250 mL) | sparkling water, room temperature |
| 2¼ tsp | instant dry yeast |
| 2 | large eggs, room temperature |
| 3 Tbsp (37 g) | granulated sugar |
| 4 cups (600 g) | all-purpose flour |
| ½ tsp | fine salt |
| 1 cup (225 g) | unsalted butter, melted (still warm is OK) |
| 1 cup (80 g) | pearl sugar or crushed sugar cubes |
1. Place the sparkling water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment, then add the yeast. Add the eggs and granulated sugar and mix for a moment to blend. Add the flour and salt and start the mixer at low speed, pouring in the melted butter while mixing. Once the ingredients are blended, increase the speed to medium-low and knead the dough until it becomes elastic and smooth, about 5 minutes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside for 1 hour to rise (it will double in size).
2. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface (because of the butter in the dough, it’s unlikely you’ll need to dust your work area with flour). Press the dough into a rough rectangle and sprinkle with the pearl sugar (or crushed sugar cubes; see note). Roll up the dough (i ) and knead and twist it to work the sugar into the dough (ii ). Shape the dough into a log and cut it into 12 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a rough ball and set aside.
3. Preheat your waffle iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Place a piece of dough into the centre of the iron and close it (iii ). Cook the waffle for about 3 minutes, until a rich golden brown (the pockets of sugar will caramelize). Transfer the cooked waffle to a serving platter and repeat with the remaining balls of dough.
4. Serve warm or, if you’re making the waffles ahead, refrigerate overnight or freeze in an airtight container for up to 3 months and reheat in a 325°F (160°C) oven or in a toaster.
note
Add the pearl sugar (or crushed sugar cubes) just before you cook the waffles, otherwise the sugar will dissolve into the batter and you won’t get those crunchy caramelized speckles that taste so good.
Mae Olson’s Pönnukökur (Icelandic Pancakes)
SIMPLE
My husband, Michael, is Icelandic Canadian, and he grew up with a set of treasured dishes that are now a part of our repertoire. Michael recalls waiting beside the stove as his mom, Mae, made these thick crêpes, impatiently watching her cook and stack them up to stay warm. After just a moment, Mae would roll up the still-warm pönnukökur for Michael and his siblings to eat with their hands. Olson gatherings often include this simple treat, which is still served exactly the same way.
Makes 8 pancakes • Prep Time: 5 minutes • Cook Time: 15 minutes
| 1½ cups (225 g) | all-purpose flour |
| ½ cup (100 g) | granulated sugar, plus extra for sprinkling |
| 1 tsp | baking powder |
| 1 tsp | ground cinnamon |
| 2 cups (500 mL) | 2% milk |
| 2 | large eggs |
| 1 tsp | vanilla extract |
| 2 Tbsp (30 g) | butter, melted |
1. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder and cinnamon together in a large bowl. Whisk in the milk, eggs and vanilla until smooth and then whisk in the butter. Let the batter rest for 15 minutes.
2. Heat a large non-stick skillet or crepe pan over medium-high heat. Lightly brush the pan with butter and ladle enough batter into the pan so that it can be swirled to evenly coat the pan in a thin layer. Set the pan back on the heat and let it cook for about 90 seconds, until the edges of the pancake start to pull away and the pancake surface is dry (no liquid batter visible). Using a spatula, gently lift and flip the crepe over to cook for 10 seconds, then turn out onto a plate. Sprinkle the warm pancake with a little sugar.
3. Repeat with the remaining pancakes, stacking them directly on top of each other once cooked. This step is the key: the warmth of the stack melts the sprinkled sugar into the pancakes so they are moist and lightly sweet.
4. To serve, roll the warm pancake up and eat with your fingers! Leftovers—if you have any—can be wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for a day or frozen for up to 3 months.
note
I grew up eating palacinky, a Slovak version of this recipe. My grandma and mom would make them, and instead of sprinkling with sugar, they would spread a layer of apricot jam on the warm crepes before rolling them up and dusting them generously with icing sugar.
Buckwheat Galettes with Egg, Ham and Cheese
MORE INVOLVED
A galette is a buckwheat crêpe filled with savoury breakfast staples, such as egg, ham and cheese. It hails from Brittany and is enjoyed at any time of day. To prepare these galettes for a group that wants to eat together, have all your ingredients ready to go so you can assemble each one in the pan as the crêpe finishes cooking. Note that buckwheat flour—despite the fact it has “wheat” in its name—is entirely gluten-free. It is ground from a seed, not a grain.
GF • Makes 4 large crepes • Prep Time: 15 minutes • Cook Time: 15 minutes
GALETTES:
| 1 cup (160 g) | buckwheat flour |
| 1 tsp | fine salt |
| 1½ cups (375 mL) | sparkling water, room temperature |
| 1 | large egg |
| ¼ cup (60 g) | unsalted butter, melted |
EGGS AND ASSEMBLY:
| 3 Tbsp (45 mL) | clarified butter, for the pan |
| 4 | large eggs |
| 1 cup (90 g) | coarsely grated Emmenthal, Comte or Swiss cheese |
| 4 slices | Black Forest ham |
1. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C) and line a baking tray with parchment paper.
2. For the galettes, whisk the flour, salt, sparkling water and egg together until smooth.
3. For the eggs and assembly, preheat a medium non-stick skillet on medium-low heat and brush it with clarified butter. Break the eggs into the pan and fry, sunny side up, adjusting the heat so they cook and stay warm while you are preparing the galettes.
4. Preheat a large (12-inch/30 cm) non-stick skillet on medium-high heat and brush it with clarified butter. Whisk the melted butter into the galette batter. Ladle or pour a quarter of the batter (just over ½ cup/125 mL) into the pan. Lift and swirl the pan to fully coat the bottom in a thin, even layer of batter. Return to the heat and cook for about 2 minutes, until the surface of the galette changes from shiny to matte.
5. Sprinkle a quarter of the cheese over the galette and place a slice of ham on top in the centre of the crepe. Set a cooked egg on top of the ham. Using a pancake flipper, lift one edge of the galette so that it covers the ham and cheese but only a little of the egg. Lift and fold the other three sides to create a square pocket from the round galette. Lift the pan and carefully slide the galette onto the baking tray (or onto a plate if you are eating it immediately) and return to the oven to keep warm.
6. Repeat with the remaining batter and fillings until you have four filled galettes. Serve immediately.
note
Using clarified butter to cook the crepes prevents the butter from burning. To clarify butter on your stovetop, melt it in a small saucepan and set aside for a minute. Slowly pour the butter into a dish, stopping just before you reach the white liquid at the bottom. Discard those milk solids, which cause the butter to burn. Alternatively, microwave the butter to melt it and pour the clear butter off in the same way (no resting needed).
Potato Pancakes with Creamy Scrambled Eggs
SIMPLE
My mom made these thin, crêpe-like potato pancakes when I was a kid, and I always thought of them as a treat. In fact, they were served for dinner more often than for breakfast, with pats of butter and generous dollops of sour cream—which may explain why I use so much sour cream in my baking: heritage! Now that I make these pancakes myself, I like to serve them for breakfast or brunch with fluffy scrambled eggs and a little smoked salmon. You can make the pancakes a day ahead, wrap them in plastic and refrigerate, then reheat them in a 300°F (150°C) oven just before serving.
GF option • Serves 4 (Makes four 8-inch/20 cm pancakes) • Prep Time: 15 minutes • Cook Time: 20 minutes
POTATO PANCAKES:
| 12 oz (360 g) | peeled Yukon Gold potato (1 large or 2 medium; see note) |
| ½ tsp | fine salt |
| 2 Tbsp (18 g) | all-purpose flour or 2 Tbsp (24 g) potato starch |
| 1 | large egg |
| 2 Tbsp (30 mL) | 1% or 2% milk |
| 2 Tbsp (30 g) | butter, melted |
CREAMY SCRAMBLED EGGS & ASSEMBLY:
| 8 | large eggs |
| ¼ cup (60 mL) | 1% or 2% milk, or half-and-half cream |
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Salt and ground black pepper |
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| 8 slices | smoked salmon |
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Chopped fresh chives and sour cream, for serving |
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1. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C) and line a baking tray with parchment paper.
2. For the pancakes, use the abrasive teeth–side of a box grater (not the side you use for cheese) to grate the potato into a bowl. It will be a fine pulp with liquid. Immediately stir in the salt to prevent the potatoes from oxidizing too much. Whisk in the flour (or potato starch), followed by the egg and milk, until well blended.
3. Heat an 8-inch (20 cm) non-stick skillet over medium-high heat and grease lightly with butter. Whisk the melted butter into the pancake batter, then drop a quarter of the batter into the skillet and spread it to the edges of the pan to form a level, thin layer. Cook for about 3 minutes, until the pancake loses its shine and starts to brown at the edges. Flip the pancake over and cook for 1 minute more. Repeat with the remaining batter for four pancakes total.
4. Meanwhile, for the eggs, whisk the eggs well by hand until the whites and yolks are evenly combined. Whisk in the milk (or cream).
5. Heat a large non-stick pan over medium-low heat and add a little butter. Pour in the egg mixture and stir gently and constantly with a silicone spatula until the eggs are cooked but still have a creamy consistency, about 15 minutes. Do not rush the eggs; slow cooking and gentle stirring are the secret to their rich and creamy texture.
6. To serve, season the pancakes with salt and pepper. Place a potato pancake on each plate, arrange two smoked salmon slices on top and cover with a quarter of the scrambled eggs. Sprinkle with chives and add a dollop of sour cream. Serve warm. Or if you’re making them ahead, refrigerate or freeze in an airtight container and reheat in a 325°F (160°C) oven or in a toaster.
note
Weigh your potato before you start grating it and don’t worry if you end up with a bit more or less than the recipe calls for—it really won’t change the outcome.
Lorraine Strata
SIMPLE
A strata is a savoury version of a sweet bread pudding, and this recipe uses the flavours of Quiche Lorraine: leeks, ham and Gruyère cheese. Far quicker to make than a quiche, this recipe is just as versatile and fulfilling to make and eat. You can try other classic flavour combinations too, including mushroom, bacon and brie; cooked sausage, roasted pepper and Asiago; salmon, spinach and feta; or whatever ingredients you know you love (and have on hand in the fridge). Serve the strata on its own or with a green side salad.
Serves 8 • Prep Time: 15 minutes • Cook Time: 90 minutes
| 1 Tbsp (15 g) | butter |
| 1 | leek, white and light green parts only, sliced |
| 6 | large eggs |
| 1 tsp | Dijon mustard |
| 3 cups (750 mL) | 1% or 2% milk or whipping cream |
| ¾ tsp | fine salt |
| ¼ tsp | ground black pepper |
| 8 cups (2 L) | cubed day-old bread (white, whole wheat or multigrain) |
| 2 cups (250 g) | diced cooked ham |
| 2 cups (180 g) | grated Gruyere cheese |
1. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter. Once melted, add the leeks and cook, stirring often, until softened but not brown, about 15 minutes. Set aside to cool. While cooking the leeks, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C) and butter an 8-cup (2 L) baking dish.
2. Whisk the eggs and mustard in a large bowl by hand until the eggs are well blended. Whisk in the milk (or whipping cream), salt and pepper, and then add the cubed bread, stirring well to fully coat. Let sit for about 10 minutes to allow the bread to soak up some of the liquid.
3. Stir the ham, cheese and cooked leeks into the bread mixture and pour this mixture into the prepared pan. Bake the strata, uncovered, for 60 to 75 minutes, until the strata inflates a little and springs back when pressed in the centre. Remove the strata from the oven and cool for about 15 minutes on a cooling rack.
4. To serve, spoon the strata into individual bowls or plates.
note
Strata is an easy make-ahead meal. Assemble it the day before, refrigerate overnight and add 15 to 20 minutes to the cook time to factor in that the entire dish is cold.
Breakfast Egg Buddies
SIMPLE
Our tastes are particular at breakfast, I find, and these easy little bites can accommodate everyone’s flavour preferences. Whisked eggs are poured over savoury fillings in muffin cups and baked, which means that even within one muffin tin, you can create a number of different combinations. They are perfect for busy weekend mornings because they can be made to go and can double as a midday snack.
GF • Serves 12 as a snack, 6 as a breakfast (Makes 12 buddies) • Prep Time: 10 minutes • Cook Time: 30 minutes
| 8 | large eggs |
| 1 tsp | Dijon mustard |
| ⅓ cup (80 mL) | 1% or 2% milk |
| ½ tsp | fine salt |
| ½ tsp | ground black pepper |
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1½ cups (weight will vary) cooked fillings, small dice (see note) |
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| 1½ cups (135 g) | coarsely grated cheese (see note) |
| 2 Tbsp (15 g) | cornstarch |
| ¼ tsp | baking powder (gluten-free, if needed) |
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with butter or line it with paper liners.
2. Whisk the eggs with the mustard by hand until well combined, then whisk in the milk followed by the salt and pepper.
3. In a bowl, toss the fillings and cheese with the cornstarch and baking powder and divide the mixture evenly among the muffin cups. Slowly pour the egg filling into each cup, allowing the egg mixture to seep down into each cup and fill it completely. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the top springs back when gently pressed.
4. Cool the egg bites in the tin on a cooling rack for about 15 minutes before removing. Serve the buddies warm or chilled.
note
Vary your fillings according to your taste and what you have on hand. I like to combine a protein (cooked meat or fish) and a vegetable (also cooked so it doesn’t release water into the eggs), or sometimes several, and I often season them with an accent flavour. Here are some ideas to get you thinking: Ham, bacon, chicken, turkey or roast beef; grilled or smoked salmon; steamed crab or shrimp; cooked onions and bell peppers; sundried tomatoes; steamed spinach; blanched asparagus or peas; roasted mushrooms and potatoes; plus herbs, spices, garlic and even hot sauce are all possibilities.
note
Choose a cheese that pairs well with your fillings. A mild cheese like Monterey Jack works with taco beef and salsa, whereas fresh chevre works with salmon and asparagus. Some good options (from mildest to strongest-flavoured) include ricotta, fresh goat cheese (chevre), feta, mozzarella, Monterey Jack, mild cheddar, old cheddar, Brie, Oka, Jarlsberg and Gruyère.
