Stavanger • Setesdal Valley • Kristiansand
Sights and Activities in Hovden
Sleeping and Eating in Kristiansand
South Norway is not about must-see sights or jaw-dropping scenery—it’s simply pleasant and pretty. Spend a day in the harborside town of Stavanger. Delve into the oil industry at the surprisingly interesting Norwegian Petroleum Museum. Peruse the Stavanger Cathedral, window-shop in the old town, cruise the harbor, or hoof it up Pulpit Rock for a fine view.
A series of time-forgotten towns stretch across the Setesdal Valley, with sod-roofed cottages and locals who practice fiddles and harmonicas, rose painting, whittling, and gold- and silver-work. The famous Setesdal filigree echoes the rhythmical designs of the Viking era and Middle Ages. Each town has a weekly rotating series of hikes and activities for the regular, stay-put-for-a-week visitor. The upper valley is dead in the summer but enjoys a bustling winter.
In Kristiansand, Norway’s answer to a seaside resort, you can promenade along the strand, sample a Scandinavian zoo, or set sail to Denmark.
Even on a busy itinerary, Stavanger warrants a day. The port town is connected by boat to Bergen (and Hirtshals, Denmark) and by train to Kristiansand.
Frankly, without a car, the Setesdal Valley is not worth the trouble. There are no trains in the valley, bus schedules are as sparse as the population, and the sights are best for joyriding. If you’re in Bergen with a car, and want to get to Denmark, this route is more interesting than repeating Oslo. On a three-week Scandinavian trip, I’d do it in one long day, as follows: 7:00—Leave Bergen; 9:00—Catch Kvanndal ferry to Utne; 10:00—Say good-bye to the last fjord at Odda; 13:00—Lunch in Hovden at the top of Setesdal Valley; 14:00—Frolic south with a few short stops in the valley; 16:30—Arrive in Kristiansand for dinner. Spend the night and catch the 9:00 boat to Denmark the next morning.
Kristiansand is not a destination town, but rather a place to pass through, conveniently connecting Norway to Denmark by ferry.
This burg of about 125,000 is a mildly charming (if unspectacular) waterfront city whose streets are lined with unpretentious shiplap cottages that echo its perennial ties to the sea. Stavanger feels more cosmopolitan than most small Norwegian cities, thanks in part to its oil industry—which brings multinational workers (and their money) into the city. Known as Norway’s festival city, Stavanger hosts several lively events, including jazz in May (www.maijazz.no), Scandinavia’s biggest food festival in July (www.gladmat.no), and chamber music in August (www.icmf.no). With all of this culture, it’s no surprise that Stavanger was named a European Capital of Culture for 2008.
From a sightseeing perspective, Stavanger barely has enough to fill a day: The Norwegian Petroleum Museum is the only big-time sight in town, and Gamle Stavanger (the “old town”) offers pleasant wandering on cobbled lanes. The city’s fine cathedral is worth a peek, but beyond those options, the chief activity is dodging the thousands of cruise passengers routinely dumped here throughout the summer season. For most visitors, the main reason to come to Stavanger is to use it as a launch pad for side-tripping to Lysefjord and/or the famous, iconic Pulpit Rock: an eerily flat-topped peak thrusting up from the fjord, offering perfect, eagle’s-eye views deep into the Lysefjord.
The most scenic and interesting parts of Stavanger surround its harbor. Here you’ll find the Maritime Museum, lots of shops and restaurants (particularly around the market plaza and along Kirkegata, which connects the cathedral to the Petroleum Museum), the indoor fish market, and a produce market (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-16:00, closed Sun). The artificial Lake Breiavatnet—bordered by Kongsgaten on the east and Olav V’s Gate on the west—separates the train and bus stations from the harbor.
The helpful staff at the TI can help you plan your time in Stavanger, and can also give you hiking tips and day trip information. Pick up a free city guide and map (June-Aug daily 9:00-20:00; Sept-May Mon-Fri 9:00-16:00, Sat 9:00-14:00, closed Sun; Domkirkeplassen 3, tel. 51 85 92 00, www.regionstavanger.com).
By Cruise Ship: Conveniently, cruise liners dock right at the Vågen harbor in the very center of town. Some tie up on the west side of the harbor (called Strandkaien), and others put in along the east side (called Skagenkaien)—but both are an easy five- to fifteen-minute walk to the central market plaza (depending on how far out the ship is docked).
By Train and Bus: Stavanger’s train and bus stations are a five-minute walk around Lake Breiavatnet to the inner harbor, cathedral, and TI (train ticket and reservation office Mon-Fri 7:00-17:30, Sat 9:00-16:30, Sun 10:00-16:30). Luggage lockers and Norway-wide train timetables are available at the train station.
By Plane: Stavanger’s Sola Airport is about nine miles outside the city (airport code: SVG, tel. 67 03 10 00, www.avinor.no). It’s connected to downtown by the Flybussen (110 kr, buy ticket on bus, Mon-Fri 7:45-24:30, 2/hour, less Sat-Sun, 20-30 minutes, tel. 51 59 90 60, www.flybussen.no). This airport bus shuttles travelers to the bus station (Byterminalen) and train station (next to each other), the Atlantic Hotel near the city center, and the Pulpit Rock ferry terminal (Fiskepiren). To get to the airport from the city center, catch the shuttle at any of these stops.
While it’s hardly the most impressive cathedral in Scandinavia, Stavanger’s top church—which overlooks the town center on a small ridge—has a harmonious interior and a few intriguing details worth lingering over. Good English information throughout the church brings meaning to the place.
Cost and Hours: 30-kr until 15:30, free after 15:30, open June-Aug daily 11:00-19:00, free and open shorter hours off-season, tel. 51 84 04 00, www.kirken.stavanger.no.
Visiting the Church: St. Swithun’s Cathedral (its official name) was originally built in 1125 in a Norman style, with basket-handle Romanesque arches. After a fire badly damaged the church in the 13th century, a new chancel was added in the pointy-arched Gothic style. You can’t miss where the architecture changes about three-quarters of the way up the aisle. On the left, behind the baptismal font, notice the ivy-lined railing on the stone staircase; this pattern is part of the city’s coat of arms. And nearby, appreciate the colorful, richly detailed “gristle Baroque”-style pulpit (from 1658). Notice that the whole thing is resting on Samson’s stoic shoulders—even as he faces down a lion.
Stroll the church, perusing its several fine “epitaphs” (tomb markers), which are paintings in ornately decorated frames. Go on a scavenger hunt for two unique features; both are on the second columns from the back of the church. On the right, at the top facing away from the nave, notice the stone carvings of Norse mythological figures: Odin on the left, and a wolf-like beast on the right. Although the medieval Norwegians were Christians, they weren’t ready to entirely abandon all of their pagan traditions. On the opposite column, circle around the base and look at ankle level, facing away from the altar. Here you see a grotesque sculpture that looks like a fish head with human hands. Notice that its head has been worn down. One interpretation is that early worshippers would ritualistically put their foot on top of it, as if to push the evil back to the underworld. Mysteriously, both of these features are one-offs—you won’t find anything like them on any other column in the church.
This entertaining, informative museum—dedicated to the discovery of oil in Norway’s North Sea in 1969 and the industry built up around it—offers an unapologetic look at the country’s biggest moneymaker. With half of Western Europe’s oil reserves, the formerly poor agricultural nation of Norway is the Arabia of the North, and a world-class player. It’s ranked third among the world’s top oil exporters, producing 1.6 million barrels a day.
Cost and Hours: 100 kr; June-Aug daily 10:00-19:00; Sept-May Mon-Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 10:00-18:00; tel. 51 93 93 00, www.norskolje.museum.no. The small museum shop sells various petroleum-based products. The museum’s Bølgen og Moi restaurant, which has an inviting terrace over the water, serves lunch and dinner (see listing under “Eating in Stavanger,” later).
Visiting the Museum: The exhibit describes how oil was formed, how it’s found and produced, and what it’s used for. You’ll see models of oil rigs, actual drill bits, see-through cylinders that you can rotate to investigate different types of crude, and lots of explanations (in English) about various aspects of oil. Interactive exhibits cover everything from the “History of the Earth” (4.5 billion years displayed on a large overhead globe, showing how our planet has changed—stay for the blast that killed the dinosaurs), to day-to-day life on an offshore platform, to petroleum products in our lives (though the peanut-butter-and-petroleum-jelly sandwich is a bit much). Kids enjoy climbing on the model drilling platform, trying out the emergency escape chute at the platform outside, and playing with many other hands-on exhibits.
Several included movies delve into specific aspects of oil: The kid-oriented “Petropolis” 3-D film is primitive but entertaining and informative, tracing the story of oil from creation to extraction. Other movies (in the cylindrical structures outside) highlight intrepid North Sea divers and the construction of an oil platform. Each film is 12 minutes long, and runs in English at least twice hourly.
Even the museum’s architecture was designed to echo the foundations of the oil industry—bedrock (the stone building), slate and chalk deposits in the sea (slate floor of the main hall), and the rigs (cylindrical platforms). While the museum has its fair share of propaganda, it also has several good exhibits on the environmental toll of drilling and consuming oil.
Stavanger’s “old town” centers on Øvre Strandgate, on the west side of the harbor. Wander the narrow, winding, cobbled back lanes, with tidy wooden houses, oasis gardens, and flower-bedecked entranceways. Peek into a workshop or gallery to find ceramics, glass, jewelry, and more. Many shops are open roughly daily 10:00-17:00, coinciding with the arrival of cruise ships (which loom ominously right next to this otherwise tranquil zone).
This “museum” is actually 10 different museums scattered around town. The various branches include the Stavanger Museum, featuring the history of the city and a zoological exhibit (Muségate 16); the Maritime Museum (Sjøfartsmuseum), near the bottom end of Vågen harbor (Nedre Strandgate 17-19); the Norwegian Canning Museum (Norsk Hermetikkmuseum—the brisling, or herring, is smoked the first Sunday of every month and mid-June-mid-Aug Tue and Thu—Øvre Strandgate 88A); Ledaal, a royal residence and manor house (Eiganesveien 45); and Breidablikk, a wooden villa from the late 1800s (Eiganesveien 40A). The Printing Museum is closed but is slated to reopen by 2016.
Cost: You can buy one 100-kr ticket to cover all of them, or you can pay 70 kr for any individual museum (if doing at least two, the combo-ticket is obviously the better value). Note that a single 70-kr ticket gets you into the Maritime Museum, Canning Museum, and Printing Museum (when open), which are a three-for-one sight. You can get details and buy tickets at any of the museums; handiest is the Maritime Museum right along the harbor.
Hours: Museum hours vary but generally open mid-June-mid-Aug daily 10:00 or 11:00-16:00; off-season Tue-Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon, except Ledaal and Breidablikk—these are open Sun only in winter; www.museumstavanger.no.
(See “Stavanger” map, here.)
The nearby Lysefjord is an easy day trip. Those with more time (and strong legs) can hike to the top of the 1,800-foot-high Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen). The dramatic 270-square-foot plateau atop the rock gives you a fantastic view of the fjord and surrounding mountains. The TI has brochures for several boat tour companies and sells tickets.
Rødne Clipper Fjord Sightseeing offers three-hour round-trip excursions from Stavanger to Lysefjord (including a view of Pulpit Rock—but no stops). Conveniently, their boats depart from the main Vågen harbor in the heart of town (east side of the harbor, in front of Skansegata, along Skagenkaien; 450 kr; mid-May-mid-Sept daily at 10:00 and 14:00, also Thu-Sat at 12:00 July-Aug; early May and late Sept daily at 12:00Oct-April Wed-Sun only at 11:00; tel. 51 89 52 70, www.rodne.no). A different company, Norled, also runs similar trips, as well as slower journeys up the Lysefjord on a “tourist car ferry” (www.norled.no).
Hiking up to the top of Pulpit Rock is a popular outing that will take the better part of a day; plan on at least four hours of hiking (two hours up, two hours down), plus time to linger at the top for photos, plus round-trip travel from Stavanger (about an hour each way by a ferry-and-bus combination)—eight hours minimum should do it. The trailhead is easily reached in summer by public transit or tour package. Then comes the hard part: the hike to the top. The total distance is 4.5 miles and the elevation gain is roughly 1,000 feet. Pack a lunch and plenty of water, and wear good shoes.
Two different companies sell ferry-and-bus packages to the trailhead from Stavanger. Ferries leave from the Fiskepiren boat terminal to Tau; buses meet the incoming ferries and head to Pulpit Rock cabin or to Preikestolen Fjellstue, the local youth hostel. Be sure to time your hike so that you can catch the last bus leaving Pulpit Rock cabin for the ferry (confirm time when booking your ticket). These trips generally go daily from mid-May through mid-September; weekends only in April, early May, and late September; and not at all from October to March (when the ferry stops running). As the details tend to change from year to year, confirm schedules with the TI or the individual companies: Tide Reiser (240 kr, best options for an all-day round-trip are departures at 8:40 or 9:20, return bus from trailhead corresponds with ferry to Stavanger, tel. 55 23 88 87, www.tidereiser.com) and Boreal (150 kr for the bus plus 92 kr for the ferry—you’ll buy the ferry ticket separately, best options depart at 8:40 or 9:20, last return bus from trailhead to ferry leaves at 19:55, tel. 51 56 41 00, www.pulpitrock.no).
Rødne Clipper Fjord Sightseeing (listed earlier) may run a handy trip in July and August that begins with a scenic Lysefjord cruise, then drops you off at Oanes to catch the bus to the Pulpit Rock hut trailhead; afterwards, you can catch the bus to Tau for the ferry return to Stavanger. It’s similar to the options described above, but adds a scenic fjord cruise at the start. To confirm this is still going and get details, contact Rødne (750 kr plus 46 kr for return ferry to Stavanger, tel. 51 89 52 70, www.rodne.no).
$$$ Thon Hotel Maritim, with 223 rooms, is two blocks from the train station near the artificial Lake Breiavatnet. It can be a good deal for a big business-class hotel (flexible rates: Db-1,750-2,245 kr on weekdays, likely 1,150 on weekends, almost as cheap in July, Sb is always 200 kr less, elevator, Wi-Fi, Kongsgaten 32, tel. 51 85 05 00, www.thonhotels.no/maritim, maritim@thonhotels.no).
$$$ Hotel Victoria has 107 business-class rooms over a stately, high-ceilinged lobby facing the Skagenkaien embankment right on the harbor (in summer and weekends: Sb-890 kr, Db-1,140 kr; weekdays outside of summer: Sb-1,940 kr, Db-2,440 kr; elevator, Wi-Fi, Skansegata 1, tel. 51 86 70 00, www.victoria-hotel.no, victoria@victoria-hotel.no).
$$ Stavanger B&B is Stavanger’s best budget option. This large red house among a sea of white houses has tidy, tiny rooms. The lodgings are basic, verging on institutional—not cozy or doily—but they’re affordable and friendly. The shared toilet is down the hall; 14 rooms have their own showers, while eight share showers on the hall. Waffles, coffee, and friendly chatter are served up every evening at 21:00 (S-790 kr, D-890 kr, 100 kr less per room for shared shower, extra bed-150 kr, guest computer and Wi-Fi, 10-minute uphill walk behind train station in residential neighborhood, Vikedalsgate 1A, tel. 51 56 25 00, www.stavangerbedandbreakfast.no, post@sbb.no). If you let them know in advance, they may be able to pick you up or drop you off at the boat dock or train station.
(See “Stavanger” map, here.)
Nye La Piazza, just off the harbor, has an assortment of pasta and other Italian dishes, including pizza, for 150-200 kr (100-kr lunch special, 300-320-kr meat options, Mon-Sat 13:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00, Rosenkildettorget 1, tel. 51 52 02 52).
XO Bar Vertshuset Mat & Vin, in an elegant setting, serves up big portions of traditional Norwegian food and pricier contemporary fare (300-400 kr, light meals-150-190 kr, open Mon-Wed 11:00-23:30, Thu-Sat 11:00-1:30, a block behind main drag along harbor at Skagen 10 ved Prostebakken, mobile 91 00 03 07).
Meny is a large supermarket with a good selection and a fine deli for super-picnic shopping (Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat until 18:00, closed Sun, in Straen Senteret shopping mall, Lars Hertervigs Gate 6, tel. 51 50 50 10).
Market Plaza Eateries: The busy square between the cathedral and the harbor is packed with reliable Norwegian chain restaurants. If you’re a fan of Deli de Luca, Peppes Pizza, or Dickens Pub, you’ll find all of them within a few steps of here.
(See “Stavanger” map, here.)
The harborside street of Skansegata is lined with lively restaurants and pubs, and most serve food. Here are a couple options:
N. B. Sørensen’s Dampskibsexpedition consists of a lively pub on the first floor (225-340 kr for pasta, fish, meat, and vegetarian dishes; Mon-Wed 11:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-late, Sun 13:00-23:00) and a fine-dining restaurant on the second floor, with tablecloths, view tables overlooking the harbor, and entrées from 300 kr (Mon-Sat 18:00-23:00, closed Sun, Skagenkaien 26, tel. 51 84 38 20). The restaurant is named after an 1800s company that shipped from this building, among other things, Norwegians heading to the US. Passengers and cargo waited on the first floor, and the manager’s office was upstairs. The place is filled with emigrant-era memorabilia.
Sjøhuset Skagen, with a woodsy interior, invites diners to its historic building for lunch or dinner. The building, from the late 1700s, housed a trading company. Today, you can choose from local seafood specialties with an ethnic flair, as well as plenty of meat options (180-195-kr lunches, 230-400-kr dinners, Mon-Sat 11:30-23:00, Sun 13:00-21:30, Skagenkaien 16, tel. 51 89 51 80).
Bølgen og Moi, the restaurant at the Petroleum Museum, has fantastic views over the harbor (lunch: 190-kr lunch special, 190-250-kr main dishes, served Mon 11:00-16:00; dinner: 250-kr main dishes, 500 kr three-course meal, served Tue-Sat 18:00-20:00—reservations recommended; Kjeringholmen 748, tel. 51 93 93 53).
From Stavanger by Train to: Kristiansand (4-7/day, 3-3.5 hours), Oslo (4/day, 8-8.5 hours, overnight possible).
By Bus to Bergen: Kystbussen operates buses between Stavanger and Bergen (hourly, 5.5 hours, 440 kr one-way, 800 kr round-trip, tel. 52 70 35 26, http://kystbussen.no).
By Boat to Hirtshals, Denmark: For details on this boat, see the “Sailing Between Norway and Denmark” sidebar.
Welcome to the remote, and therefore very traditional, Setesdal Valley. Probably Norway’s most authentic cranny, the valley is a mellow montage of sod-roofed water mills, ancient churches, derelict farmhouses, yellowed recipes, and gentle scenery.
The Setesdal Valley joined the modern age with the construction of the valley highway in the 1950s. All along the valley you’ll see the unique two-story storage sheds called stabburs (the top floor was used for storing clothes; the bottom, food) and many sod roofs. Even the bus stops have rooftops the local goats love to munch.
In the high country, just over the Sessvatn summit (3,000 feet), you’ll see herds of goats and summer farms. If you see an ekte geitost sign, that means genuine, homemade goat cheese is for sale. (It’s sold cheaper and in more manageable sizes in grocery stores.) To some, it looks like a decade’s accumulation of earwax. I think it’s delicious. Remember, ekte means all-goat—really strong. The more popular and easier-to-eat version is a mix of cow and goat cheese.
For more information on the Setesdal Valley, see www.setesdal.com.
Attractions from here to Kristiansand are listed roughly from north to south.
At the end of the Hardanger Fjord, just past the huge zinc and copper industrial plant, you’ll hit the industrial town of Odda (well-stocked TI for whole region and beyond; in summer daily 9:00-19:00; off-season Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, closed Sat-Sun; on market square at Torget 2-4, tel. 53 65 40 05, www.visitodda.com). Odda brags that Kaiser Wilhelm came here a lot, but he’s dead and I’d drive right through. If you want to visit the tongue of a glacier, drive to Buar and hike an hour to Buarbreen. From Odda, drive into the land of boulders. The many mighty waterfalls that line the road seem to have hurled huge rocks (with rooted trees) into the rivers and fields. Stop at the giant double waterfall (on the left, pullout on the right, drive slowly through it if you need a car wash).
Continue over Røldalsfjellet and into the valley below, where the old town of Røldal is trying to develop some tourism. Drive on by. Its old church isn’t worth the time or money. Lakes are like frosted mirrors, making desolate huts come in pairs. Haukeliseter, a group of sod-roofed buildings filled with cultural clichés and tour groups, offers pastries, sandwiches, and reasonable hot meals (from 100 kr) in a lakeside setting. Try the traditional rømmegrøt porridge.
This highway and transportation junction has daily bus service to/from Bergen and to/from Kristiansand (Haukeli Motell café open Mon-Fri 11:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-18:00, closed Sat, tel. 35 07 02 14). Turn right over the river onto Route 9, toward Hovden.
A ski resort at the top of the Setesdal Valley (2,500 feet), Hovden is barren in the summer and painfully in need of charm. Still, it makes a good home base if you want to explore the area for a couple of days. Locals come here to walk and relax for a week.
Tourist Information: The TI is open all year (Mon-Fri 9:00-16:00, summer Sat 10:00-15:00, July also Sun 10:00-15:00, otherwise closed Sat-Sun, tel. 37 93 93 70, www.hovden.com, post@hovden.com).
Hegni Center, on the lake at the south edge of town, rents rowboats, canoes, and kayaks (250-350 kr/day, 195-200 kr/half-day, hourly rentals also possible, cash only, mid-June-mid-Aug daily 11:00-18:00, mid-Aug-mid-Sept Sat-Sun 11:00-15:00, mid-Sept-mid-Oct Sat-Sun only 11:00-16:00, closed mid-Oct-mid-June, tel. 37 93 93 70).
Good walks offer you a chance to see reindeer, moose, arctic fox, and wabbits—so they say. The TI and most hotels stock brochures, maps, and other information about moderate to strenuous hikes in the area as well as biking options. Berry picking is popular in late August, when small, sweet blueberries are in season. A chairlift sometimes takes sightseers to the top of a nearby peak, with great views in clear weather. Bikers can ride the trails downhill (100 kr, 110 kr to bring a bike, June-July daily 11:00-14:00, Aug-mid-Oct Wed and Sat-Sun only). Hunting season starts in late August for reindeer (only in higher elevations) and later in the fall for grouse and moose.
The TI offers a 2.5-hour Elg Safari (elg is Norwegian for “moose”). Learn more about this “king of the forest” during a late-night drive through Setesdal’s back roads with a stop for moose-meat soup (340 kr, June-Aug only; generally Tue, Fri, and Sun at 22:00—other days on request; 50 percent money-back guarantee if you don’t see a moose, tel. 37 93 93 70, post@hovden.com).
Learn about iron production from the late Iron Age (about 1,000 years ago) with the aid of drawings, exhibits, and recorded narration from a “Viking” (available in English). The museum is about 100 yards behind the Hegni Center (look for the sign from the road to Jernvinnemuseum).
Two companies sail between the tips of Norway and Denmark. Color Line and Fjordline sail fast boats between Kristiansand, Norway, and Hirtshals, Denmark (2.25-3.25 hours). In addition, Fjordline boats connect Stavanger, Norway, and Hirtshals (11 hours, covered next). They also link Bergen with Hirtshals, though at 18.5 hours, it’s a long haul. (For information on an Oslo-Copenhagen cruise—run by a different company—see here.)
Both Color Line and Fjordline offer car packages (covering up to 5 people and the car) and have various on-board amenities such as restaurants, coffee bars, duty-free shops, and several classes of travel. I’ve listed prices in euros, as they appear on the companies’ websites.
Sailing Between Kristiansand and Hirtshals, Denmark: Color Line ships generally sail twice daily, all year, with a few more sailings added during summer, but mysteriously they sail only once a day in mid-April. Sailing from Norway to Denmark, Color Line boats usually leave Kristiansand at 8:00 and 16:30, arriving in Hirtshals at 11:15 and 19:45. Going from Denmark to Norway, the boats leave Hirtshals at 12:15 and 20:45, arriving in Kristiansand at 15:30 and midnight. Fares vary with day of week and season (cheaper weekdays and off-season). During the summer, one-way passenger fares start at €20/person mid-week, €40/person on weekends; car packages start at €70 mid-week and €102 on weekends.
Fjordline’s seasonal ferry makes the crossing two times a day from late June to mid-August in a speedy 2.25 hours. The schedule is cut back in late spring and early fall, with no ferries from September to mid-May. In high season, sailing from Norway to Denmark, Fjordline boats leave Kristiansand at 8:30 and 15:00, arriving in Hirtshals at 10:45 and 17:15. Going from Denmark to Norway, the boats leave Hirtshals at 11:45 and 18:00, arriving in Kristiansand at 14:00 and 20:15. One-way passenger fares start at €21/person mid-week; car packages start at €55 mid-week.
Sailing Between Stavanger and Hirtshals, Denmark: Fjordline ships sailing from Norway to Denmark travel overnight, which can save you the cost of a hotel. Enjoy an evening in Stavanger, then sleep (or vomit) as you sail to Denmark. The boat generally sails daily, departing Stavanger at 21:00 and arriving in Hirtshals at 8:00 the next day. Ships also sail daily from Denmark to Norway, departing Hirtshals at 21:00 and arriving in Stavanger at 7:00 in the morning.
Fares vary, depending on how far in advance you book, the time of year, the day of the week, and the type of accommodation you want. Basic one-way fares range from €13 to €102, plus the cost of meals (€17 breakfast, €43 dinner) and accommodations (an airline-type seat or cabin). A seat, referred to as a “sleeperette,” starts at €21. But if you’re efficient enough to spend a night traveling, you owe yourself the comfort of a private room. Cabins start at around €115 for a basic, two-berth, inside cabin, and go up to €300 or more for a “Fjord Class” cabin with a double bed and ocean view. Car packages range from €100 and up.
Reservations: To get the best fare, book online and early—as soon as you can commit to a firm date (http://fjordline.no and www.colorline.com). This is especially true for Fjordline. Many cheaper fares are nonrefundable and nonchangeable, so be sure to check the details carefully when you book. Days of the week and departure/arrival times can vary—confirm specific schedules when you make your reservations.
Cost and Hours: Free, late-June-mid-Aug daily 11:00-19:00, otherwise ask for the key at the TI or Hegni Center.
A super indoor spa/pool complex, the Hovden Badeland provides a much-needed way to spend an otherwise dreary and drizzly early evening here.
Cost and Hours: 135-150 kr for 3 hours or more, cheaper for shorter visits, daily 10:00-19:00 in summer, shorter hours off-season, tel. 37 93 93 93, www.badeland.com.
$$ Hovden Fjellstoge is a big, old ski chalet renting Hovden’s only cheap beds. Even if you’re just passing through, their café is a good choice for lunch or an early dinner. Check out the mural in the balcony overlooking the lobby—an artistic rendition of this area’s history. Behind the mural is a frightening taxidermy collection (hotel: Sb-from 750 kr, bunk-bed Db-from 990 kr, includes breakfast; cabins: from 890 kr for 2-4 people with bathroom and kitchen; breakfast-110 kr, sheets-100 kr, towel-20 kr; tel. 37 93 95 43, www.hovdenfjellstoge.no, post@hovdenfjellstoge.no).
Nine miles south of Hovden is a two-mile side-trip to a 400-foot-high rock-pile dam (look for the Dammar signs). Enjoy the great view and impressive rockery. This is one of the highest dams in northern Europe. Read the chart. Sit out of the wind a few rows down the rock pile and ponder the vastness of Norwegian wood.
The most interesting folk museum and church in Setesdal are in the teeny town of Bykle. The 17th-century church has two balconies—one for men and one for women (free, late June-mid-Aug daily 11:00-17:00, closed off-season, tel. 37 93 63 03, www.setesdalsmuseet.no).
On the east side of the main road (at the Grasbrokke sign) is an old water mill (1630). A few minutes farther south, at the sign for Sanden Såre Camping, exit onto a little road to stretch your legs at another old water mill with a fragile, rotten-log sluice.
The Setesdal Museum (Rygnestadtunet) offers more of what you saw at Bykle (about 30 kr, two buildings; late June-Aug daily 11:00-17:00; closed off-season; 1 mile east of the road, tel. 37 93 63 03, www.setesdalsmuseet.no). Unless you’re a glutton for culture, I wouldn’t do both.
Past Flateland is a nice picnic and WC stop, with a dock along the water for swimming...for hot-weather days or polar bears.
This is Setesdal’s prettiest village (but don’t tell Bykle). In the center, you’ll find fine silver- and gold-work, homemade crafts next to the TI, and old-fashioned lefse cooking demonstrations (in the small log house by the Valle Motell). The fine suspension bridge attracts kids of any age (b-b-b-b-bounce), and anyone interested in a great view over the river to strange mountains that look like polished, petrified mudslides. European rock climbers, tired of the over-climbed Alps, often entertain spectators with their sport. Is anyone climbing? (TI tel. 37 93 75 29.)
Sleeping in Valle: $$ Valle Motell rents basic rooms (Sb-625 kr, Db-790 kr, includes breakfast, cabins with kitchen and bath but no breakfast-725-1195 kr, tel. 37 93 77 00, www.valle-motell.no, post@valle-motell.no).
The Sylvartun silversmith shop, whose owner Hallvard Bjørgum is also a renowned Hardanger fiddle player, sells Setesdal silver in a 17th-century, grass-roofed log cabin next to the main road.
The Ardal Church (1827) has a rune stone in its yard. Three hundred yards south of the church is a 900-year-old oak tree.
A huge town by Setesdal standards (3,500 people), Evje is famous for its gems and mines. Fancy stones fill the shops here. Rock hounds find the nearby mines fun; for a small fee, you can hunt for gems. The TI is by Route 9 in the center of Evje (mid-June-mid-Aug Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun; tel. 37 93 14 00). The Setesdal Mineral Park is on the main road, two miles south of town (140 kr, late-June-mid-Aug daily 10:00-18:00, shorter hours off-season, closed mid-Oct-April, tel. 37 93 13 10, www.mineralparken.no).
This “capital of the south” has 85,000 inhabitants, a pleasant Renaissance grid-plan layout (Posebyen), a famous zoo with Norway’s biggest amusement park (6 miles toward Oslo on the main road), a daily bus to Bergen, and lots of big boats going to Denmark. It’s the closest thing to a beach resort in Norway. Markensgate is the bustling pedestrian market street—an enjoyable place for good browsing, shopping, eating, and people-watching. Stroll along the Strand Promenaden (marina) to Christiansholm Fortress.
The TI is at Rådhusgata 18, a few blocks from the boat, bus, and train station (mid-June-mid-Aug Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00; mid-Aug-mid-June Mon-Fri 8:00-15:30, Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Sun; tel. 38 12 13 14, www.visitkrs.no). The bank at the Color Line terminal opens for each arrival and departure (even the midnight ones). The Fønix Kino cinema complex is within two blocks of the ferry and TI (110-140 kr, seven screens, movies shown in English, schedules at the entrance, tel. 38 10 42 00).
Kristiansand hotels are expensive and nondescript. The otherwise uninteresting harbor area has a cluster of wooden buildings called Fiskebasaren (“Fish Bazaar”). The indoor fish market is only open during the day, but numerous restaurants (serving fish, among other dishes) provide a nice atmosphere for dinner. Follow Vester Strandgate past the Fønix movie theater to Østre Strandgate, take a right, and follow the signs to Fiskebrygga.
$$$ Rica Hotel Norge is a modern option (Sb-1,700 kr, Db-1,900 kr, prices are averaged—rates vary with demand, Dronningensgate 5, tel. 38 17 40 00, www.hotel-norge.no, firmapost@hotel-norge.no).
$$$ Thon Hotel Wergeland is inviting for a large chain hotel. It’s within earshot of the church bells and busy Kirkegate—ask for a quieter room away from the street (Sb-1,395 kr, Db-1,695 kr, prices are averaged—rates vary with demand, includes breakfast, non-smoking rooms, no elevator, guest computer and Wi-Fi, Kirkegate 15, tel. 38 17 20 40, www.thonhotels.no/wergeland, wergeland@thonhotels.no).
From Kristiansand by Train to: Stavanger (4-7/day, 3-3.5 hours), Oslo (5/day, 4.5 hours).
By Boat to Hirtshals, Denmark: For details on this boat, see the “Sailing Between Norway and Denmark” sidebar.
Bergen to Kristiansand via the Setesdal Valley (10 hours): Your first key connection is the Kvanndal-Utne ferry (departures hourly 6:00-22:30, fewer on weekends, reservations not possible or even necessary if you get there 20 minutes early, breakfast in cafeteria, www.norled.no). If you make the 9:00, your day will be more relaxed. Driving comfortably, with no mistakes or traffic, it’s two hours from your Bergen hotel to the ferry dock. Leaving Bergen is a bit confusing. Pretend you’re going to Oslo on the road to Voss (Route E-16, signs for Nestune, Landås, Nattland). About a half-hour out of town, after a long tunnel, leave the Voss road and take Route 7 heading for Norheimsund, and then Kvanndal. This road, treacherous for the famed beauty of the Hardanger Fjord it hugs as well as for its skinniness, is faster and safer if you beat the traffic (which you will with this plan).
The ferry drops you in Utne, where a lovely road takes you to Odda and up into the mountains. From Haukeli, turn south on Route 9 and wind up to Sessvatn at 3,000 feet. Enter the Setesdal Valley. Follow the Otra River downhill for 140 miles south to the major port town of Kristiansand. Skip the secondary routes. The most scenic stretch is between Hovden and Valle. South of Valle, there is a lot more logging (and therefore less scenic). As you enter Kristiansand, pay a 21-kr toll and follow signs for Denmark.