Vaxholm • Grinda • Svartsö • Sandhamm
Sleeping and Eating in Vaxholm
Some of Europe’s most scenic islands stretch 80 miles out into the Baltic Sea from Stockholm. If you’re cruising to (or from) Finland, you’ll get a good look at this island beauty. If you have more time and want to immerse yourself in all that simple Swedish nature, consider spending a day or two island-hopping.
The Swedish word for “island” is simply ö, but the local name for this area is Skärgården—literally, “garden of skerries,” which are unforested rocks sticking up from the sea. That stone is granite, carved out and deposited by glaciers. The archipelago closer to Stockholm is rockier, with bigger islands and more trees. Farther out (such as at Sandhamn), the glaciers lingered longer, slowly grinding the granite into sand and creating smaller islands.
Locals claim there are more than 30,000 of these islands, and as land here is rising slowly, more pop out every year. Some 150 are inhabited year-round, and about 100 have ferry service. There’s an unwritten law of public access in the archipelago: Technically you’re allowed to pitch your tent anywhere for up to two nights, provided the owner of the property can’t see you from his or her house. It’s polite to ask first and essential to act responsibly.
With thousands of islands to choose from, every Swede seems to have a favorite. This chapter covers four very different island destinations that offer an overview of the archipelago. Vaxholm, the gateway to the archipelago, comes with an imposing fortress, a charming fishermen’s harbor, and the easiest connections to Stockholm. Rustic Grinda feels like—and used to be—a Swedish summer camp. Sparsely populated Svartsö is another fine back-to-nature experience. And swanky Sandhamn thrills the sailboat set, with a lively yacht harbor, a scenic setting at the far edge of the archipelago, and (true to its name) sandy beaches.
The flat-out best way to experience the magic of the archipelago is simply stretching out comfortably on the rooftop deck of your ferry. The journey truly is the destination. Enjoy the charm of lovingly painted cottages as you glide by, sitting in the sun on delicate pairs of lounge chairs that are positioned to catch just the right view, with the steady rhythm of the ferries lacing this world together, and people savoring quality time with each other and nature.
On a Tour: For the best quick look, consider one of the many half- or full-day package boat trips from downtown Stockholm to the archipelago. Strömma runs several options, including the three-hour Archipelago Tour (2-4/day, 250 kr), or the all-day Thousand Island Cruise (departs daily in summer at 9:30, 1,150 kr includes lunch and dinner; tel. 08/1200-4000, www.stromma.se).
On Your Own: For more flexibility, freedom, and a better dose of the local vacation scene, do it on your own. Any one of the islands in this chapter is easily doable as a single-day side-trip from Stockholm. And, because all boats to and from Stockholm pass through Vaxholm, it’s easy to tack on that town to any other one. For general information about the archipelago, see www.visitskargarden.se.
For a very busy all-day itinerary that takes in the two most enjoyable island destinations (Grinda and Sandhamn), consider this plan: 8:00—Set sail from Stockholm; 9:30—Arrive in Grinda for a quick walk around the island; 10:50—Catch the boat to Sandhamn; 11:45—Arrive in Sandhamn, have lunch, and enjoy the town; 17:00—Catch boat to Stockholm (maybe have dinner on board); 19:05—Arrive back in Stockholm. Or you could craft a route tailored to your interests: For example, for a back-to-nature experience, try Stockholm-Grinda-Svartsö-Stockholm. For an urban mix of towns, consider Stockholm-Vaxholm-Sandhamn-Stockholm.
Overnighting on an island really lets you get away from it all and enjoy the island ambience. I’ve listed a few island accommodations, but note that midrange options are few; most tend to be either pricey and top-end or very rustic (rented cottages with minimal plumbing).
Don’t struggle too hard with the “which island?” decision. The main thing is to get well beyond Vaxholm, where the scenery gets more striking. I’d sail an hour or two past Vaxholm, have a short stop on an island, then stop in Vaxholm on the way home. Again, the real joy is the view from your ferry.
A few archipelago destinations (including Vaxholm) are accessible overland, thanks to modern bridges. For other islands, you’ll take a boat. Two major companies run public ferries from downtown Stockholm to the archipelago: the bigger Waxholmsbolaget and the smaller Cinderella Båtarna.
Tickets: Regular tickets are sold on board. Simply walk on, and at your convenience, stop by the desk to buy your ticket before you disembark (or wait for them to come around and sell you one). Waxholmsbolaget offers a deal that’s worthwhile if you’re traveling with a small group or doing a lot of island-hopping. You can save 25 percent by buying a 1,000-kr ticket credit for 750 kr (sold only on land; use the splittable credit to buy tickets on the boat). If you’re staying in the archipelago for a few days and want to island-hop, consider the Boat Hopper Pass. This five-day, all-inclusive pass is good on either boat line (420 kr, plus a 20-kr smartcard fee). Buy the card at the Waxholmsbolaget office.
Schedules: Check both companies’ schedules when planning your itinerary; you might have to mix and match to make your itinerary work. A single, confusing schedule booklet mixes times for both lines. Ferry schedules are complex even to locals, especially outside of peak season.
Note that the departures mentioned below are for summer (mid-June-mid-Aug); the number of boats declines off-season.
Waxholmsbolaget: Their ships depart from in front of Stockholm’s Grand Hotel, at the stop called Stromkäjen (tel. 08/679-5830, www.waxholmsbolaget.se). Waxholmsbolaget boats run from Stockholm to these islands: Vaxholm (at least hourly, 1.5 hours, 75 kr), Grinda (nearly hourly, 2 hours, 90 kr), Svartsö (3/day, 2.5 hours, 110 kr), and Sandhamn (1/day, Sat-Sun only, 3.5 hours, 150 kr). These destinations and their timetables are listed in the “Visitor” section of Waxholmsbolaget’s website. The same company has routes and schedules throughout the archipelago.
Cinderella Båtarna: This company focuses its coverage on the most popular destinations. Their ships—generally faster, more comfortable, and a little pricier than their rivals’—leave from near Stockholm’s Nybroplan, along Strandvägen (tel. 08/1200-4000, www.cinderellabatarna.com). Cinderella boats sail frequently (4/day Mon-Thu, 5/day Fri-Sun) from Stockholm to Vaxholm (50 minutes, 110 kr) and Grinda (1.5 hours, 145 kr). After Grinda, the line splits, going either to Sandhamn (from Stockholm: 1/day Mon-Thu, 2/day Fri-Sun, 2.5 hours, 165 kr), or Finnhamn, with a stop en route at Svartsö (from Stockholm: 2/day, 2.5 hours, 165 kr). These fares are for peak season (mid-June-mid-Aug); Cinderella’s fares are slightly cheaper off-season.
On Board: When you board, tell the conductor which island you’re going to. Boats don’t land at all of the smaller islands unless passengers have requested a stop. Hang on to your ticket, as you’ll have to show it to disembark. Some boats have luggage-storage areas (ask when you board).
You can usually access the outdoor deck; if you can’t get to the front deck (where the boats load and unload), head to the back. Or nab a window seat inside. For the best seat, with less sun and nicer views, I’d go POSH: Port Out, Starboard Home (on the left side leaving Stockholm, on the right side coming back). As you sail, a monitor on board shows the position of your boat as it motors through the islands.
Food: You can usually buy food on board, ranging from simple fare at snack bars to elegant sea-view dinners at fancy restaurants. If your boat has a top-deck restaurant and you want to combine your cruise with dinner, make a reservation as soon as you board. Once you have a table, it’s yours for the whole trip, so you can simply claim your seat and enjoy the ride, circling back later to eat. You can also try calling ahead to reserve a table for a specific cruise (for Waxholmsbolaget, call 08/243-090; for Cinderella, call 08/1200-4000).
Opening Times: Any opening hours I list in this chapter are reliable only for peak season (mid-June-mid-Aug). During the rest of the tourist year (“shoulder season”—late May, early June, late August, and September), hours are flexible and completely weather-dependent; more services tend to be open on weekends than weekdays. Outside the short summer season, many places close down entirely.
Money: Bring cash. The only ATMs are in Vaxholm; farther out, you’ll wish you’d stocked up on cash in Stockholm, though most vendors do accept credit cards.
Signal for Stop: At the boat landings or jetties on small islands, you’ll notice a small signal tower (called a semaphore) that’s used to let a passing boat know you want to be picked up. Pull the cord to spin the white disc and make it visible to the ship. Be sure to put it back before boarding the boat. At night, you signal with light—locals just use their mobile phones.
Weather: The weather on the islands is often better than in Stockholm. For island forecasts, check Götland’s (the big island far to the south) instead of Stockholm’s.
Local Drink: A popular drink here is punsch, a sweet fruit liqueur. Stately old buildings sometimes have punsch-verandas, little glassed-in upstairs porches where people traditionally would imbibe and chat.
The self-proclaimed “gateway to the archipelago,” Vaxholm is more developed and less charming than the other islands. Connected by bridge to Stockholm, it’s practically a suburb, and not the place to commune with Swedish nature. But it also has an illustrious history as the anchor of Stockholm’s naval defense network, and it couldn’t be easier to reach (constant buses and boats from Stockholm). While Vaxholm isn’t the rustic archipelago you might be looking for, you’re almost certain to pass through here at some point on your trip. If you have some extra time, hop off the boat for a visit.
Getting There: Boats constantly shuttle between Stockholm’s waterfront and Vaxholm (1-2/hour, 50 minutes-1.5 hours, 75-110 kr depending on boat company). Bus #670 runs regularly from the Tekniska Högskolan T-bana stop in northern Stockholm to the center of Vaxholm (3/hour Mon-Fri, 2/hour Sat-Sun, 40-minute trip, 75 kr one-way—three zones). Unless you’re on a tight budget, I’d take the boat for the scenery.
Vaxholm, with about 11,000 people, is on the island of Vaxön, connected to the mainland (and Stockholm) by a series of bridges. Everything of interest is within a five-minute walk of the boat dock.
Vaxholm’s good TI is well-stocked with brochures about Vaxholm itself, Stockholm, and the archipelago, and can help you with boat schedules (June-Aug Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00, shorter hours off-season; in the Town Hall building on Rådhustorget, tel. 08/5413-1480, www.vaxholm.se).
Ferries stop at Vaxholm’s south harbor (Söderhamnen). The bus from Stockholm arrives and departs at the bus stop called Söderhamnsplan, a few steps from the boats. To get your bearings, follow my Vaxholm Walk. Luggage lockers are in the Waxholmsbolaget building on the waterfront. The handy electronic departure board (Nasta Avgang means “next departure”) near the ticket office shows when boats are leaving. For more help, confirm your plans with the person at the ticket office.
This 30-minute, self-guided, two-part loop will take you to the most characteristic corners of Vaxholm. Begin at the boat dock—you can even start reading as you approach.
Waterfront: Dominating Vaxholm’s waterfront is the big Art Nouveau Waxholms Hotell, dating from the early 20th century. Across the strait to the right is Vaxholm’s stout fortress, a reminder of this town’s strategic importance over the centuries.
With your back to the water, turn left and walk with the big hotel on your right-hand side. Notice the Waxholmsbolaget office building. Inside you can buy tickets, confirm boat schedules, or stow your bag in a locker. After the hamburger-and-hot-dog stand, you’ll reach a roundabout. Just to your left is the stop for bus #670, connecting Vaxholm to Stockholm. Beyond that, a wooden walkway follows the seafront to the town’s private boat harbor (Västerhamnen, or “west harbor”), where you can count sailboats and rent a bike.
But for now, continue straight up Vaxholm’s appealing, shop-lined main street, Hamngatan. After one long block (notice the handy Coop/Konsum grocery store across the street), turn right up Rådhusgatan (following signs to Rådhustorget) to reach the town’s main square. The TI is inside the big, yellow Town Hall building on your left. Continue kitty-corner across the square (toward the granite slope) and head downhill on a street leading to the...
Fishermen’s Quarter: This Norrhamnen (“north harbor”) is ringed by former fishermen’s homes. Walk out to the dock and survey the charming wooden cottages. In the mid-19th century, Stockholmers considered Vaxholm’s herring, called strömming, top-quality. Caught fresh here, the herring could be rowed into the city in just eight hours and eaten immediately, while herring caught farther out on the archipelago, which had to be preserved in salt, lost its flavor.
As you look out to sea, you’ll see a pale green building protruding on the left. This is the charming Hembygdsgården homestead museum, with a pleasant indoor-outdoor café. It’s worth heading to this little point (even if the museum is closed, as it often is): As you face the water, go left about one block, then turn right down the gravel lane called Trädgårdsgatan (also marked for Hembygdsgården). At this corner, look for the Strömmingslådan (“herring shop”) sign for the chance to buy what herring connoisseurs consider top-notch fish (summer only).
Continuing down Trädgårdsgatan lane, you’ll run right into the Hembygdsgården homestead. The big house features an endearing museum showing the simple, traditional fisherman’s lifestyle (pop in if it’s open; free but donation requested). Next door is a fine café serving sweets and light meals with idyllic outdoor seating (both in front of and behind the museum—look around for your favorite perch, taking the wind direction into consideration). This is the best spot in town for coffee or lunch (see listing under “Sleeping and Eating in Vaxholm,” later). From here, look across the inlet at the tiny beach (where we’re heading next).
Backtrack to the fishermen’s harbor, then continue straight uphill on Fiskaregatan road, and take the first left up the tiny gravel lane marked Vallgatan. This part of the walk takes you back in time, as you wander among old-fashioned wooden homes. At the end of the lane, head left. When you reach the water, go right along a path leading to a thriving little sandy beach. In good weather, this offers a fun chance to commune with Swedes at play. (In bad weather, it’s hard to imagine anyone swimming or sunning here.)
When you’re done relaxing, take the wooden stairs up to the top of the rock and Battery Park (Batteripark)—where giant artillery helped Vaxholm flex its defensive muscles in the late 19th century. As you crest the rock and enjoy the sea views, notice (on your right) the surviving semicircular tracks from those old artillery guns. With a range of 10 kilometers, the recoil from these powerful cannons could shatter glass in nearby houses. Before testing them, they’d play a bugle call to warn locals to stow away their valuables. More artifacts of these defenses are dug into the rock.
To head back to civilization, turn right before the embedded bunker (crossing more gun tracks and passing more fortifications on your left). As you leave the militarized zone, take a left at the fork, and the road will take you down to the embankment—just around the corner from where the boat docks, and our starting point. From along this stretch of embankment, you can catch a boat across the water to Vaxholm Fortress.
Vaxholm’s only real attraction is the fortification just across the strait. While the town feels sleepy today, for centuries it was a crucial link in Sweden’s nautical defense because it presided over the most convenient passage between Stockholm and the outer archipelago (and, beyond that, the Baltic Sea, Finland, and Russia). The name “Vaxholm” means “Island of the Signal Fire,” emphasizing the burg’s strategic importance. In 1548, King Gustav Vasa decided to pin his chances on this location, ordering the construction of a fortress here and literally filling in other waterways, effectively making this the only way into or out of Stockholm...which it remained for 450 years. A village sprang up across the waterway to supply the fortress, and Vaxholm was born. The town’s defenses successfully held off at least two major invasions (Christian IV of Denmark in 1612, and Peter the Great of Russia in 1719). Vaxholm’s might gave Sweden’s kings the peace of mind they needed to expand their capital to outlying islands—which means that the pint-size powerhouse of Vaxholm is largely to thank for Stockholm’s island-hopping cityscape.
Cost and Hours: 60 kr, July-Aug daily 11:15-17:00, June daily 12:15-16:00, first Sat-Sun in Sept 11:15-17:00, closed off-season, tel. 08/5417-1890, www.vaxholmsfastning.se.
Getting There: A ferry shuttles visitors back and forth from Vaxholm (50 kr round-trip, every 20 minutes when museum is open, catch the boat just around the corner and toward the fortress from where the big ferries put in). Once on the island, hike into the castle’s inner courtyard and look to the left to find the museum entrance.
Visiting the Fortress: The current, “new” fortress dates from the mid-19th century, when an older castle was torn down and replaced with this imposing granite behemoth. During the 30 years it took to complete the fortress, the tools of warfare changed. Both defensively and offensively, the new fortress was obsolete before it was even completed. The thick walls were no match for the invention of shells (rather than cannonballs), and the high hatches used for attacking tall sailing vessels were useless against new, low-lying, Monitor-style attack boats.
Today, the fortress welcomes guests to wander its tough little island and visit its museum. Presented chronologically on two floors (starting upstairs), the modern exhibit traces the military history of this fortress and of Sweden in general. It uses lots of models and mannequins, along with actual weaponry and artifacts, to tell the story right up to the 21st century. There’s no English posted, but you can pick up good English translations as you enter. It’s as interesting as a museum about Swedish military history can be.
Since Vaxholm is so close to Stockholm, there’s little reason to sleep here. But in a pinch, Waxholms is the only hotel in town.
Sleeping: $$$ Waxholms Hotell’s stately Art Nouveau facade dominates the town’s waterfront. Inside are 42 pleasant rooms with classy old-fashioned furnishings (peak-season Sb-1,450 kr, Db-1,750 kr; weekends/July Sb-1,150 kr, Db-1,495 kr; Wi-Fi, loud music some nights in summer—ask what’s on and request a quiet room if necessary, Hamngatan 2, tel. 08/5413-0150, www.waxholmshotell.se, info@waxholmshotell.se). The hotel has a grill restaurant outside in summer and a fancy dining room inside.
Eating: Hembygdsgården (“Homestead Garden”) Café is Vaxholm’s most tempting eatery, serving “summer lunches” (salads and sandwiches) and homemade sweets, with delightful outdoor seating around the Homestead Museum in Vaxholm’s characteristic fishermen’s quarter. Anette’s lingonberry muffins are a treat (light lunches served daily May-Aug, closed Sept-April, tel. 08/5413-1980).
The rustic, traffic-free isle of Grinda—half retreat, half resort—combines back-to-nature archipelago remoteness with easy proximity to Stockholm. The island is a tasteful gaggle of hotel buildings idyllically situated amid Swedish nature—walking paths, beaches, trees, and slabs of glacier-carved granite sloping into the sea. Since Grinda is a nature preserve (owned by the Stockholm Archipelago Foundation, or Skärgårdsstiftelsen), only a few families actually live here. There’s no real town. But in the summer, Grinda becomes a magnet for day-tripping urbanites, which can make it quite crowded. Adding to its appeal is the nostalgia it holds for many Stockholmers, who fondly recall when this was a summer camp island. In a way, with red-and-white cottages bunny-hopping up its gentle hills and a stately old inn anchoring its center, it retains that vibe today.
Grinda is small and easy to manage. It’s a little wider than a mile in each direction; you can walk from end to end in a half-hour. Its main settlement—the historic Wärdshus building (a busy hub of tourist activities), hotel, and related amenities—sits next to its harbor, where private yachts and sailboats put in. Everything on the island is owned and operated by the same company; fortunately, it does a tasteful job of managing the place to keep the island’s relaxing personality intact.
Major points of interest are well-signposted in Swedish: Södra Bryggan (south dock), Norra Bryggan (north dock), Värdshus (hotel at the heart of the island), Gästhamn (guest harbor); Affär (general store); stuga/stugby (cottage/s); Grindastigen (nature trail); and Tältplats (campground).
The red cottage marked Expedition greets arriving visitors just up the hill from the Södra Grinda ferry dock. The staff answers questions, and the cottage serves as a small shop, a place to rent kayaks or saunas, and a reception desk for the island’s cottages and hostel (open daily in season; general info tel. 08/5424-9491, www.archipelagofoundation.se).
Public ferries use one of two docks, at opposite ends of the island: Most use Södra Grinda to the south (nearest the hostel and cottages), while a few use Norra Grinda to the north (closer to the campground). From either of these, it’s about a 10- to 15-minute walk to the action.
Grinda is made to order for strolling through the woods, taking a dip, picnicking, and communing with Swedish nature. Watch the boats bob in the harbor and work on your Baltic tan. You can simply stick to the gravel trails connecting the island’s buildings, or for more nature, take the Grindastigen trail, which loops to the far end of the island and back in less than an hour (signposted from near the Wärdshus).
You can also rent a kayak or rent the private little sauna hut bobbing in the harbor. There’s no bike rental here—and the island is a bit too small to keep a serious biker busy—but you could bring one on the boat from Stockholm.
As you stroll, you might spot a few haggard-looking tents through the trees. The right to pitch a tent here was established by the Swedish government during World War II, to give the downtrodden a cheap place to sleep. Those permissions are still valid, inherited, bought, and sold, which means that Grinda has a thriving community of tent-dwelling locals who camp out here all summer long (April-Oct). While some may be the descendants of those original hobos, these days they choose this lifestyle and live as strange little barnacles attached to Grinda. Once each summer they have a progressive tent-crawl bender before heading to the Wärdshus to blow a week’s food budget on a fancy meal.
The island just across from the Södra Grinda dock (to the right) is Viggsö, where the members of ABBA have summer cottages and wrote many of their biggest hits.
You have various options, in increasing order of rustic charm: hotel, hostel, and cottages. You can reserve any of these through the Grinda Wärdshus. This hub of operations has a restaurant, bar, Wi-Fi, and conference facilities (tel. 08/5424-9491, www.grinda.se, info@grinda.se).
Grinda is busiest in the summer, when tourists fill its hotel; in spring and fall, it mostly hosts conferences. If sleeping at the hostel or cottages, arrange arrival details (you’ll probably pick up your keys at the Expedition shed near the dock). The hostel and cottages charge extra for bed linens. If you have a tent, you can pitch it at the basic campsite near the north jetty for a small fee.
$$$ Grinda Hotel rents 30 rooms (each named for a local bird or fish) in four buildings just above the Wärdshus. These are modern, comfortable, and made for relaxing, intentionally lacking distractions such as TVs or phones (Sb-1,600 kr, Db-2,000 kr, larger suite-2,600 kr, 120 kr less/person if you skip breakfast, extra bed-400 kr, if dining at the restaurant the “Wärdshus package” will save you a few kronor).
$ The 27 cottages—most near the Södra Grinda ferry dock—are rentable, offering a rustic retreat (kitchenettes but no running water, shared bathroom facilities outside). From mid-June to mid-August, these come with a one-week minimum and cost more (2-bed cottage-3,000 kr/week, 4-bed cottage-3,500 kr/week, 6-bed cottage-4,000 kr; at other times rentable by the night: 2-bed-1,000 kr, 4-bed-1,200 kr, 6-bed-1,500 kr).
$ Grinda Hostel (Vandrarheim) is the place to sleep if you wish you’d gone to Swedish summer camp as a kid. The 44 bunks are in simple two- and four-bed cottages, surrounding a pair of fire pits (300 kr/bed regardless of room size, great shared kitchen/dining hall). A small pebbly beach and a basic sauna are nearby.
All your options (aside from bringing your own picnic from Stockholm) are run by the hotel, with choices in each price range.
Grinda Wärdshus, the inn at the center of the complex, has a good restaurant that combines rural island charm with fine food. You can choose between traditional Swedish meals and contemporary international dishes. Servings are small but thoughtfully designed to be delicious. Eat in the woody dining room or on the terrace out front (1,395 kr/person covers dinner and double room, 140-170-kr starters, 190-300-kr main dishes; open late June-Aug daily 12:00-24:00; weekends only—and some Fri—in off-season).
Grindas Framfickan (“Grinda’s Front Pocket”) is a pleasant bistro that serves up basic but tasty food (such as fish burgers and grilled shrimp) right along the guest harbor. Order at the counter, then choose a table to wait for your food (140-200-kr dishes, early June-mid-Aug daily 11:00-22:00, otherwise sporadically open in good weather—especially weekends).
The general store and café (Lanthandel) just below the Wärdshus is the place to rustle up some picnic fixings. You’ll also find coffee to go, ice cream, “one-time grills” for a disposable barbecue, and kayak rentals (open long hours daily early June-mid-Aug, Fri-Sun only in shoulder season).
The remote and lesser-known isle of Svartsö (svert-show, literally “Black Island”), a short hop beyond Grinda, is the “Back Door” option of the bunch. Unlike Grinda, Svartsö is home to a real community; islanders have their own school and library. But with only 80 year-round residents, the old generation had to specialize. Each person learned a skill to fill a niche in the community—one guy was a carpenter, the next was a plumber, the next was an electrician, and so on. While the island is less trampled than the others in this chapter (just one B&B and a great restaurant), it is reasonably well-served by ferries. Svartsö feels remote and potentially even boring for those who aren’t wowed by simply strolling through meadows. But it’s ideal for those who want to slow down and immerse themselves in nature.
Svartsö hosts the school for this part of the archipelago. Because Swedish law guarantees the right to education, even kids living on remote islands are transported to class. A school boat trundles from island to island each morning to collect kids headed for the school on Svartsö. If the weather is bad, a hovercraft retrieves them. If it’s really bad, and all of the snow days have been used up, a helicopter takes the kids to school.
Orientation to Svartsö: The island, about five miles long and a half-mile wide, has three docks. The main one, at the southwestern tip, is called Alsvik (with the general store and restaurant). Halfway up is Skälvik (near the B&B), and at the northeastern end is Söderboudd. Most boats stop at Alsvik, but if you want to go to a different dock, you can request a stop (ask the conductor on board, or use the semaphore signal at the dock).
At the Alsvik dock, the great little general store, called Svartsö Lanthandel, sells anything you could need and also acts as the town TI, post office, and liquor store (open daily mid-May-mid-Aug, more sporadic in off-season but open year-round, tel. 08/5424-7325). You can rent bikes here; in busy times, call ahead to reserve one. The little café on the dock sells drinks and light food, and rents cottages (shared outdoor toilets, tel. 08/5424-7110).
The island has a few paved lanes and almost no traffic. Residents own three-wheeled utility motorbikes for hauling things to and from the ferry landing. The interior consists of little more than trees. With an hour or so, you can bike across the island and back, enjoying the mellow landscape and chatting with the friendly big-city people who’ve found their perfect escape.
Eating in Svartsö: If you leave the Alsvik dock to the right and walk five minutes up the hill, you’ll find the excellent Svartsö Krog restaurant. Opened by a pair of can-do foodies who also run a top-end butcher shop at a Stockholm market hall, this place has a deep respect for the sanctity of meat. Specializing in well-constructed, ingredient-driven dishes, the restaurant brings Stockholm culinary sophistication to a castaway island. Choose one of the three eating zones (each with the same menu): outside, the upscale dining room, or in the original pub interior (an Old West-feeling tavern that the new owner has kept as-is to respect the old-timers). The menu is pricey but good (100-200-kr starters, 175-300-kr main dishes). Their specialty is “golden entrecôte,” grilled steak that’s been aged for eight weeks (open for lunch and dinner daily June-Aug; May and Sept open Thu-Sun for dinner, as well as lunch on Sat-Sun; closed Oct-April; tel. 08/5424-7255).
Out on the distant fringe of the archipelago—the last stop before Finland—sits the proud village of Sandhamn (on the island of Sandön). Literally “Sand Harbor,” this is where the glacier got hung up and kept on churning away, grinding stone into sand. The town has a long history as an important and posh place. In 1897, the Royal Swedish Sailing Society built its clubhouse here, putting Sandhamn on the map as the yachting center of the Baltic—Sweden’s answer to Nantucket. It remains an extremely popular stop for boaters—from wealthy yachties to sailboat racers—as well as visitors simply seeking a break from the big city.
The island of Sandön feels stranded on the edge of the archipelago, rather than immersed in it. Sandhamn is on its sheltered side. Though it’s far from Stockholm, Sandhamn is very popular. During the peak of summer (mid-June through late August), it’s extremely crowded. Expect to stand in line, and call ahead for restaurant reservations. But even during these times, the Old Town is relatively peaceful and pleasant to explore. If the weather’s decent, shoulder season is delightful (though it can be busy on weekends).
You’ll find two halves to Sandhamn: In the shadow of that still-standing iconic yacht clubhouse is a ritzy resort/party zone throbbing with big-money nautical types. But just a few steps away, around the harbor, is an idyllic time-warp Old Town of colorfully painted shiplap cottages tucked between tranquil pine groves. While most tourists come here for the resort, the quieter part of Sandhamn holds the real appeal.
Sandhamn has a summer-only TI (open June-mid-Aug) in the harbor area (www.destinationsandhamn.se.)
To get your bearings from the ferry dock, take this self-guided walk. Begin by facing out to sea.
As you look out to the little point across from the dock, notice the big yellow building. In the 18th century, this was built as the pilot house. Because the archipelago is so treacherous to navigate—with its tens of thousands of islands and skerries, not to mention untold numbers of hidden underwater rocks—locals don’t trust outsiders to bring their boats here. So passing ships unfamiliar with these waters were required to pick up a local captain (or “pilot”) to take them safely all the way to Stockholm. The tradition continues today. The orange boats marked pilot, moored below the house, ferry loaner captains to oncoming ships. And, since this is the point of entry into Sweden, foreign ships can also be processed by customs here.
The little red shed just in front of the pilot house is home to a humble town museum that’s open sporadically in the summer, featuring exhibits on Sandhamn’s history and some seafaring tales. Just below that, notice the waterfront red barn with the T sign. The owner of this boat-repair shop erected this marker for Stockholm’s T-bana just for fun.
Just above the barn, look for the yellow building with the blue letters spelling Sandhamns Värdshus. This traditional inn, built in the late 17th century, housed sailors while they waited here to set out to sea. During that time, Stockholm had few exports, so ships that brought and unloaded cargo there came to Sandhamn to load up their holds with its abundant sand as ballast. Today the inn still serves good food (see “Eating in Sandhamn,” later).
Stretching to the left of the inn are the quaint storefronts of most of Sandhamn’s eateries (those that aren’t affiliated with the big hotel)—bakery, deli, and grocery store, all of them humble but just right for a simple bite or picnic shopping. Local merchants enjoy a pleasantly symbiotic relationship. Rather than try to compete with each other, they attempt to complement what the next shop sells—each one finding just the right niche.
The area stretching beyond these storefronts is Sandhamn’s Old Town—a maze of wooden cottages that’s an absolute delight to explore (and easily the best activity in town). Only 50 of Sandhamn’s homes (of around 450) are occupied by year-rounders. The rest are summer cottages of wealthy Stockholmers, or bunkhouses for seasonal workers in the tourist industry. Most locals live at the farthest-flung (and therefore least desirable) locations. Imagine the impact of 100,000 annual visitors on this little town.
Where the jetty meets the island, notice (on the right) the old-fashioned telephone box with the fancy Rikstelefon logo. It contains the island’s lone working pay phone. Just to the right of the phone box, you can see the back of the town’s bulletin board, where locals post their classified ads. To the left at the base of the dock is Sandhamns Kiosk, a newsstand selling local and international publications (as well as candy and ice cream). A bit farther to the left, the giant red building with the turret on top is the yacht clubhouse that put Sandhamn on the map, and still entertains the upper crust today with a hotel, several restaurants, spa, mini-golf course, outdoor pool, and more (see here). You’ll see its proud SSS-plus-crown logo (standing for Svenska Segelsällskapet—Swedish Sailing Society) all over town. In the 1970s, the building was owned by a notorious mobster who made meth in the basement, then smuggled it out beneath the dock to sailboats moored in the harbor.
Spinning a bit farther to the left, back to where you started, survey the island across the strait (Lökholmen). Just above the trees, notice the copper dome of an observatory that was built by this island’s eccentric German oil-magnate owner in the early 20th century. He also built a small castle (not quite visible from here) for his kids to play in.
For a narrated stroll to another fine viewpoint, walk into town and turn left along the water. After about 50 yards, a sign on the right points up a narrow lane to Post. This unassuming gravel path is actually one of Sandhamn’s most important streets, with the post office, police department (which handles only paperwork—real crimes are deferred to the Stockholm PD), and doctor (who visits town every second Wednesday). While Sandhamn feels remote, it’s served—like other archipelago communities—by a crack emergency-response network that can dispatch a medical boat or, in extreme cases, a helicopter. With top-notch hospitals in Stockholm just a 10-minute chopper ride away, locals figure that if you have an emergency here, you might just make it to the doctor faster than if you’re trying to make it through congested city streets in an ambulance. At the end of this lane, notice the giant hill of the town’s namesake sand.
Continuing along the main tree-lined harborfront strip, you can’t miss the signs directing yachters to the toalett (toilet) and sopor (garbage dump). Then you’ll pass the Sandhamns Guiderna office, a travel agency where you can rent bikes, kayaks, and fishing gear (tel. 08/640-8040). Just after that is the barn for the volunteer fire department (Brandstation). With all the wooden buildings in town, fire is a concern—one reason why Sandhamn restricts camping (and campfires).
Go beneath the skyway connecting the big red hotel to its modern annex. Then veer uphill (right) at the Badstranden Trouville sign, looking down at the mini-golf course. After you crest the top of the hill, on the left is a big, flat expanse of rock nicknamed Dansberget (“Dancing Rock”) because it once hosted community dances with a live orchestra. Walk out to enjoy fine views of the Baltic Sea—from here, boaters can set sail for Finland, Estonia, and St. Petersburg, Russia. Looking out to the horizon, notice the three lighthouse towers poking up from the sea, used to guide ships to this gateway to the archipelago. The finish line for big boat races stretches across this gap (from the little house on the point to your left). In summer, this already busy town gets even more jammed with visitors, thanks to the frequent sailing races that end here. The biggest annual competition is the Götlandrunt, a round-trip from here to the island of Götland. In 2009, Sandhamn was proud to be one of just 10 checkpoints on the Volvo Ocean Race, a nine-month race around the world that called mostly at bigger cities (such as Boston, Singapore, and Rio).
Our walk is finished. You can head back into town. Or, to hit the beach, continue another 15 minutes to Trouville beach (explained below).
True to its name, Sandön (“Sandy Island”) has some of the archipelago’s rare sandy beaches. The closest, and local favorite, is the no-name beach tucked in a cove just behind the Old Town (walk through the community from the main boat dock, then follow the cove around to the little sandy stretch).
The most popular—which can be quite crowded in summer—is Trouville beach, at the opposite end of the island from Sandhamn (about a 20-minute walk). To find it, walk behind the big red hotel and take the right, uphill fork (marked with the low-profile Badstranden Trouville sign) to the “Dancing Rock,” then proceed along the road. Take a left at the fork by the tennis courts, then walk about 10 minutes through a mysterious-feeling forest until you reach a little settlement of red cottages. Take a right at the fork (look up for the Till Stranden sign), and then, soon after, follow the middle fork (along the plank walks) right to the beach zone: two swathes of sand marked off by rocks, stretching toward Finland.
Sandhamn has a pair of very expensive top-end hotels, a basic but comfortable B&B, and little else. If you’re sleeping on Sandhamn, the B&B is the best choice.
$$$ Sands Hotell is a stylish splurge sitting proudly at the top of town. While oriented mostly to conferences and private parties, its 19 luxurious rooms also welcome commoners in the summer (Sb-2,100 kr, Db-2,500 kr, Wi-Fi, elevator, spa, tel. 08/5715-3020, www.sandshotell.se, info@sandshotell.se).
$$$ Sandhamns Seglarhotellet rents 79 nautical-themed rooms in a modern annex behind the old yacht club building (where you’ll find the reception). The rooms are fine, but the prices are sky-high (Db-2,390 kr, 200 kr more for balcony, extra bed-400 kr, small apartment-2,590 kr, large apartment-2,890 kr, suite-4,090 kr, Wi-Fi, loud music from disco inside the clubhouse—light sleepers should ask for a quieter back room, great gym and pool area, tel. 08/5745-0400, www.sandhamn.com, reception@sandhamn.com).
$ Sandhamns Värdshus B&B rents five rustic but tasteful, classically Swedish rooms in an old mission house buried deep in the colorful Old Town. To melt into Sandhamn and get away from the yachties, sleep here (S-930 kr, D-1,350 kr, mostly twins, all rooms share WC and shower, tiny cottage with its own bathroom for same price, includes breakfast, reception is at the restaurant—see below, tel. 08/5715-3051, www.sandhamns-vardshus.se, info@sandhamns-vardshus.se). The rooms are above a reception hall that is rented out for events, but after 22:00, quiet time kicks in.
Sandhamn’s most appealing eateries are along the Old Town side of the harbor.
Sandhamns Värdshus, right on the water, is the town’s best eatery. They serve traditional Swedish food in three separate dining zones (which mostly share the same menu, but each also has its own specials): out on an inviting deck overlooking the water; upstairs in a salty dining room with views; or downstairs in a simple pub (open daily for lunch and dinner nearly year-round, tel. 08/5715-3051).
To grab a bite or assemble a picnic, browse through these smaller eateries (listed in the order you’ll reach them from the boat dock): Westerbergs Livsmedel grocery store has basic supplies (open sporadic hours daily). Dykarbaren Café serves lunches and dinners with indoor and outdoor seating (open daily mid-June-mid-Aug, Wed-Sun only in shoulder season, closed off-season; tel. 08/5715-3554). Monrads Deli is a bright, innovative shop where you can buy sandwiches and salads, a wide array of meats for grilling, cheeses, cold cuts, drinks, fresh produce, and other high-quality picnic fixings (open long hours daily in summer, mobile 0709-650-300). Just around the corner (uphill from the harbor and behind the Värdsgasthus), Sandhamns Bageriet, a popular bakery/café serving coffee, sweet rolls, and sandwiches, is a great early-morning venue (daily in summer).
Sandhamn Seglarhotell has several eateries, open to guests and non-guests. Out on the dock is the Seglargrillen, an American-style grill with a takeout window and outdoor tables (85-kr dishes, open in summer in good weather only). Upstairs in the building’s main ballroom is an eatery serving good but pricey Swedish and international food (150-200-kr starters, 185-300-kr main courses, traditional daily lunch special for 145 kr). The restaurant enjoys fine sea views and has a bar/dance hall zone (with loud disco music until late, nearly nightly in summer). Down on the ground floor is a pub/nightclub (tel. 08/5745-0421).