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Conch Key | Duck Key | Grassy Key | Marathon
Most of the activity in this part of the Florida Keys centers on the town of Marathon—the region’s third-largest metropolitan area. On either end of it, smaller keys hold resorts, wildlife research and rehab facilities, a historic village, and a state park. The Middle Keys make a fitting transition from the Upper Keys to the Lower Keys not only geographically but mentally. Crossing Seven Mile Bridge prepares you for the slow pace and don’t-give-a-damn attitude you’ll find a little farther down the highway. Fishing is one of the main attractions—in fact, the region’s commercial-fishing industry was founded here in the early 1800s. Diving is another popular pastime. There are many natural areas to enjoy in the Middle Keys, where mainland stress becomes an ever more distant memory.
If you get bridge fever—the heebie-jeebies when driving over long stretches of water—you may need a pair of blinders (or a couple of tranquilizers) before tackling the Middle Keys. Stretching from Conch Key to the far side of the Seven Mile Bridge, this zone is home to the region’s two longest bridges: Long Key Viaduct and Seven Mile Bridge, both historic landmarks.
Overseas Highway takes you from one end of the region to the other in a direct line that takes in most of the sights, but you’ll find some interesting resorts and restaurants off the main drag.
Conch Key
MM 63–61.
This stretch of islands ranges from rustic fishing village to boating elite. Fishing dominates the economy, and many residents are descendants of immigrants from the mainland South. Across a causeway from the tiny fishing village of Conch Key is Duck Key, home to a more upscale community. There are a few lodging options here for those exploring Marathon or taking advantage of the water sports on Duck Key.
Where to Stay
Little Conch Key.
$$ | HOTEL | Brightly colored American-Caribbean–style cottages, each named for a shell or sea creature, are furnished Bali style in a secluded island setting on a mangrove-framed beach between Marathon and Islamorada. Continental breakfast is served under the chickee hut, but who needs breakfast when each room comes with a juicer and unlimited supply of oranges? Brand-spanking-new villas are enormous and suitable to indulge your inner movie star. The hotel offers complimentary dockage, kayaks, and Wi-Fi. Pros: far from the traffic noise; sandy beach; lots of sunny decks. Cons: far from restaurants. | Rooms from: $300 | MM 62.3 OS, 62250 Overseas Hwy. | Conch Key, Florida, United States | 800/330–1577 | www.littleconchkey.com | 9 cottages, 2 apartments, 2 seaside villas, 2 rooms | Breakfast.
Duck Key
Duck Key is at mile marker 61.
Duck Key holds one of the region’s nicest marina resorts, Hawks Cay, plus a boating-oriented residential community.
Exploring
Dolphin Connection.
Hawk’s Cay Resort’s Dolphin Connection offers three programs, including Dockside Dolphins, a 30-minute encounter from the dry training docks; Dolphin Discovery, an in-water program that lasts about 45 minutes and lets you kiss, touch, and feed the dolphins; and Trainer for a Day, a three-hour session with the animal training team. | Hawk’s Cay Resort, MM 61 OS, 61 Hawks Cay Blvd. | 305/743–7000 | www.dolphinconnection.com | From $60.
Where to Eat and Stay
Alma.
$$$ | LATIN AMERICAN | A refreshing escape from the Middle Keys’ same-old menus, Alma serves expertly prepared Florida and Latin-Caribbean dishes in an elegant setting. Nightly changing menus might include a trio of ceviche, ahi tuna with a wonderful garbanzo bean tomato sauce, gnocchi and exotic mushroom ragout, or pan-seared Wagyu steak. Finish your meal with the silky, smooth, passion fruit crème brûlée, which has just the right amount of tartness to balance the delicate caramelized crust. | Average main: $28 | Hawks Cay Resort, 61 Hawks Cay Blvd. | 305/743–7000, 888/432–2242 | www.hawkscay.com | No lunch.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Hawks Cay Resort.
$$$ | RESORT | The 60-acre, Caribbean-style retreat with a full-service spa and restaurants has plenty to keep the kids occupied (and adults happy). A pirate ship with water cannons delights at the family activity center, where there are two family pools and sports fields. Kids can also swim at one of the pools at the main lodge (the other is adults-only) or in the protected saltwater lagoon. An in-the-water program lets guests get up close and personal with dolphins. Two restaurants and a ice cream shop cater to families. When the older generation wants to head to the spa or out to dinner at fine-dining restaurant Alma, there are supervised programs for kids up to age 12. The spacious rooms and villas have a coastal look. The room rate does not include a hefty daily resort fee, which covers the tram and other costs. Pros: huge rooms; restful spa; full-service marina and dive shop. Cons: no real beach; far from Marathon’s attractions. | Rooms from: $315 | MM 61 OS, 61 Hawks Cay Blvd. | 305/743–7000, 888/432–2242 | www.hawkscay.com | 161 rooms, 16 suites, 254 2- and 3-bedroom villas | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Scuba and Snorkeling
Dive Duck Key.
Dive Duck Key is a full-service dive shop offering rentals, charters, lessons, and certification courses. Scuba trips are offered with and without gear. Basic open-water certification courses are also available, but these require four days of your time; a shorter resort course can be finished in a day. There’s also Snuba, a snorkel-scuba hybrid where your tanks float on the surface rather than being attached to your back. | Hawks Cay Resort, MM 61 OS, 61 Hawks Cay Blvd., Duck Key | Duck Key, Florida, United States | 305/289–4931, 877/386–3483 | www.diveduckkey.com | Diving from $65, Snuba excursions from $115.
Water Sports
Sundance Watersports.
Go on a one-hour guided Jet Ski tour, soar on a parasail flight, go reef snorkeling (including equipment rentals), or enjoy a sunset cruise. | Hawks Cay Resort, MM 61 OS, 61 Hawks Cay Blvd., Duck Key | Duck Key, Florida, United States | 305/743–0145 | www.sundancewatersports.net | From $42.
Grassy Key
Grassy Key is between mile markers 60 and 57.
Local lore has it that this sleepy little key was named not for its vegetation—mostly native trees and shrubs—but for an early settler by the name of Grassy. The key is inhabited primarily by a few families operating small fishing camps and roadside motels. There’s no marked definition between it and Marathon, so it feels sort of like a suburb of its much larger neighbor to the south. Grassy Key’s sights tend toward the natural, including a worthwhile dolphin attraction and a small state park.
Getting Here and Around
Most visitors arriving by air drive to this destination either from Miami International Airport or Key West International Airport. Rental cars are readily available at both, and in the long run, are the most convenient means of transportation for getting here and touring around the Keys.
Exploring
Curry Hammock State Park.
Looking for a slice of the Keys that’s far removed from tiki bars? On the ocean and bay sides of Overseas Highway are 260 acres of upland hammock, wetlands, and mangroves. On the bay side, there’s a trail through thick hardwoods to a rocky shoreline. The ocean side is more developed, with a sandy beach, a clean bathhouse, picnic tables, a playground, grills, and a 28-site campground. Locals consider the paddling trails under canopies of arching mangroves one of the best kayaking spots in the Keys. Manatees frequent the area, and it’s a great spot for bird-watching. Herons, egrets, ibis, plovers, and sanderlings are commonly spotted. Raptors are often seen in the park, especially during migration periods. | MM 57 OS, 56200 Overseas Hwy., Little Crawl Key | 305/289–2690 | www.floridastateparks.org/curryhammock | $4.50 for 1 person, $6 for 2, 50¢ per additional person | Daily 8–sunset.
FAMILY | Dolphin Research Center.
The 1963 movie Flipper popularized the notion of humans interacting with dolphins, and Milton Santini, the film’s creator, also opened this center, which is home to a colony of dolphins and sea lions. The nonprofit center has educational sessions and programs that allow you to greet the dolphins from dry land or play with them in their watery habitat. You can even paint a T-shirt with a dolphin—you pick the paint, the dolphin “designs” your shirt. The center also offers five-day programs for children and adults with disabilities. | MM 59 BS, 58901 Overseas Hwy. | 305/289–1121 information, 305/289–0002 reservations | www.dolphins.org | $25 | Daily 9–4:30.
Where to Eat
Hideaway Café.
$$$ | AMERICAN | The name says it all. Tucked between Grassy Key and Marathon, it’s easy to miss if you’re barnstorming through the middle islands. When you find it (upstairs at Rainbow Bend Resort), you’ll discover a favorite of locals who appreciate a well-planned menu, lovely ocean view, and quiet evening away from the crowds—fancy with white tablecloths, but homey with worn carpeting. For starters, dig into escargots à la Edison (sautéed with vegetables, pepper, cognac, and cream). Then feast on several specialties, such as a rarely found chateaubriand for one, a whole roasted duck, or the seafood medley combining the catch of the day with scallops and shrimp in a savory sauce. | Average main: $30 | Rainbow Bend Resort, MM 58 OS, 57784 Overseas Hwy. | 305/289–1554 | www.hideawaycafe.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Where to Stay
Gulf View Waterfront Resort.
$ | RESORT | With a flock of 15 caged birds, a tortoise, and an iguana on the property, this homey duplex is part resort, part menagerie. Owner-occupied, the Gulf View’s units are individually decorated with simple wicker furniture, tropical pastels, and ceiling fans. Guests—mostly couples during the winter and families during holidays—appreciate the close proximity to the Dolphin Research Center, practically next door. (The resort offers discount passes.) Free use of canoes, paddleboats, and kayaks are also available for guests. This eco-green friendly property is a Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence winner. Pros: parklike setting; sandy beach area with hammocks; close to restaurants. Cons: no elevator to office and second-story accommodations; some traffic noise. | Rooms from: $180 | MM 58.7 BS, 58743 Overseas Hwy. | Grassy Key, Florida, United States | 305/289–1414, 877/289–0111 | www.gulfviewwaterfrontresort.com | 2 rooms, 3 efficiencies, 3 1-bedroom apartments, 3 2-bedroom apartments | No meals.
Marathon
Marathon is between mile markers 53 and 47.5.
Marathon is a bustling town, at least compared with other Keys communities. If you get off the main drag, you’ll find the few oceanfront hotels, but there are a number of good dining options right on Overseas Highway, so you’ll definitely want to stop for a bite even if you’re just passing through on the way to Key West.
If you stop a while, you’ll find Marathon has the most historic attractions outside of Key West, and the well-worth-visiting Sombrero Beach—though fishing, diving, and boating are the main events here. The town throws tarpon tournaments in April and May, more fishing tournaments in June and September, a seafood festival in March, and lighted boat parades around the winter holidays.
New Englanders founded this former fishing village in the early 1800s. The community on Vaca Key subsequently served as a base for pirates, salvagers (also known as “wreckers”), spongers, and, later, Bahamian farmers who eked out a living growing cotton and other crops. More Bahamians arrived in hopes of finding work building the railroad. According to local lore, Marathon was renamed when a worker commented that it was a marathon task to position the tracks across the 6-mile-long island. During the building of the railroad, Marathon developed a reputation for lawlessness that rivaled that of the Old West. It’s said that to keep the rowdy workers from descending on Key West for their off-hours endeavors, residents would send boatloads of liquor up to Marathon. Needless to say, things have quieted down considerably since then. Grassy Key segues into Marathon with little more than a slight increase in traffic and higher concentration of commercial establishments. Marathon’s roots are anchored to fishing and boating, so look for marinas to find local color, fishing charters, and good restaurants. At its north end, Key Colony Beach is an old-fashioned island neighborhood worth a visit for its shops and restaurants. Just be warned the police are plentiful and love to catch speeders. Nature lovers shouldn’t miss the attractions on Crane Point. Other good places to leave the main road are at Sombrero Beach Road (MM 50), which leads to the beach, and 35th Street (MM 49), which takes you to a funky little marina and restaurant. Overseas Highway hightails through Hog Key and Knight Key before the big leap over Florida Bay and Hawk’s Channel via the Seven Mile Bridge.
Getting Here and Around
The SuperShuttle charges $65 to $185 per passenger for trips from Miami International Airport to Key Largo. To go farther into the Keys, you must book an entire 11-person van, which costs about $250 to Marathon. For a trip to or from the airport, place your request 24 hours in advance.
Miami Dade Transit provides daily bus service from MM 50 in Marathon to the Florida City Walmart Supercenter on the mainland. The bus stops at major shopping centers as well as on-demand anywhere along the route during daily round-trips on the hour from 6 am to 10 pm. The cost is $2 one-way, exact change required. The Lower Keys Shuttle bus runs from Marathon to Key West ($4 one way), with scheduled stops along the way.
Essentials
Transportation Contacts
Lower Keys Shuttle. | 305/809–3910 | www.kwtransit.com.
Miami Dade Transit. | 305/770–3131 | www.miamidade.gov/transit.
SuperShuttle. | 305/871–2000, 800/258–3826 | www.supershuttle.com.
Visitor Information
Greater Marathon Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center. | MM 53.5 BS, 12222 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743–5417, 800/262–7284 | www.floridakeysmarathon.com.
Exploring
FAMILY | Crane Point Museum, Nature Center, and Historic Site.
Tucked away from the highway behind a stand of trees, Crane Point—part of a 63-acre tract that contains the last-known undisturbed thatch-palm hammock—is delightfully undeveloped. This multiuse facility includes the Museum of Natural History of the Florida Keys, which has displays about local wildlife, a seashell exhibit, and a marine-life display that makes you feel you’re at the bottom of the sea. Kids love the replica 17th-century galleon and pirate dress-up room where they can play, and the re-created Cracker House filled with insects, sea-turtle exhibits, and children’s activities. On the 1-mile indigenous loop trail, visit the Laura Quinn Wild Bird Center and the remnants of a Bahamian village, site of the restored George Adderly House. It is the oldest surviving example of Bahamian tabby (a concretelike material created from sand and seashells) construction outside of Key West. A boardwalk crosses wetlands, rivers, and mangroves before ending at Adderly Village. From November to Easter, docent-led tours are available; bring good walking shoes and bug repellent during warm weather. | MM 50.5 BS, 5550 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743–9100 | www.cranepoint.net | $12.50 | Mon.–Sat. 9–5, Sun. noon–5; call to arrange trail tours.
Pigeon Key.
There’s much to like about this 5-acre island under the Old Seven Mile Bridge. You might even recognize it from one season finale of the TV show The Amazing Race. You can reach it via a ferry that departs from behind the visitors center (look for the old red railroad car on Knight’s Key, MM 47 OS). Once there, tour the island on your own or join a guided tour to explore the buildings that formed the early-20th-century work camp for the Overseas Railroad that linked the mainland to Key West in 1912. Later the island became a fish camp, a state park, and then government-administration headquarters. Exhibits in a small museum recall the history of the Keys, the railroad, and railroad baron Henry M. Flagler. The ferry ride with tour lasts two hours; visitors can self-tour and catch the ferry back in a half hour. | MM 45 OS, 1 Knights Key Blvd. | Pigeon Key | 305/743–5999 | pigeonkey.net | $12 | Daily 9:30–2:30; ferry departures at 10, noon, and 2.
Seven Mile Bridge.
This is one of the most photographed images in the Keys. Actually measuring slightly less than 7 miles, it connects the Middle and Lower Keys and is believed to be the world’s longest segmental bridge. It has 39 expansion joints separating its various concrete sections. Each April runners gather in Marathon for the annual Seven Mile Bridge Run. The expanse running parallel to Seven Mile Bridge is what remains of the Old Seven Mile Bridge, an engineering and architectural marvel in its day that’s now on the National Register of Historic Places. Once proclaimed the Eighth Wonder of the World, it rested on a record 546 concrete piers. No cars are allowed on the old bridge today. | Marathon.
FAMILY | The Turtle Hospital.
More than 100 injured sea turtles check in here every year. The 90-minute guided tours take you into recovery and surgical areas at the world’s only state-certified veterinary hospital for sea turtles. In the “hospital bed” tanks, you can see recovering patients and others that are permanent residents due to their injuries. After the tour, you can feed some of the “residents.” Call ahead—space is limited and tours are sometimes canceled due to medical emergencies. The turtle ambulance out front makes for a memorable souvenir photo. | MM 48.5 BS, 2396 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743–2552 | www.turtlehospital.org | $18 | Daily 9–5.
Turtles in the Florida Keys
Five species of threatened and endangered sea turtles frequent the waters of the Florida Keys. The loggerhead, the most common, is named for the shape of its noggin. It grows to a heft of 300 pounds. It’s the only one of the local turtles listed as threatened rather than endangered.
The vegetarian green turtle was once hunted for its meat, which has brought populations to their endangered stage. It can reach an impressive 500 pounds.
Named for the shape of its mouth, the hawksbill turtle is a relative lightweight at 150 pounds. It prefers rocks and reefs for habitat. The Keys are the only U.S. breeding site for the endangered critter.
The largest reptile alive, the leatherback turtle can weigh in at up to 2,000 pounds, attained from a diet of mainly jellyfish.
The rarest of local sea turtles, the Kemps Ridley is named after a Key West fisherman. A carnivore, it grows to 100 pounds.
The biggest threats to sea-turtle survival include fibropapilloma tumors, monofilament fishing lines (which can sever their flippers), entanglement in ropes and nets, run-ins with boat propellers, and oil spills.
Beaches
FAMILY | Sombrero Beach.
No doubt one of the best beaches in the Keys, here you’ll find pleasant, shaded picnic areas that overlook a coconut palm–lined grassy stretch and the Atlantic Ocean. Roped-off areas allow swimmers, boaters, and windsurfers to share the narrow cove. Facilities include barbecue grills, a large playground, a pier, a volleyball court, and a paved, lighted bike path off Overseas Highway. Sunday afternoons draw lots of local families toting coolers. The park is accessible for those with disabilities and allows leashed pets. Turn east at the traffic light in Marathon and follow signs to the end. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: families; swimming; windsurfing. | MM 50 OS, Sombrero Beach Rd. | 305/743–0033 | Free | Daily 8–sunset.
Where to Eat
FAMILY | Brutus Seafood Market & Eatery.
$ | SEAFOOD | What happens when a lifelong charter boat captain (Brutus) gets bored? He opens a restaurant, with the help of his wife and their grown kids. A year later, this unassuming storefront-turned-top-rated-restaurant has a loyal local following, even with landlubbers. Sit inside at a hightop alongside the seafood display cases, or outside under the tiki hut, but either way, you will lick your plate. Even their meats are smoked and prepared in-house. Lunchers love the turkey sandwiches, and dinner patrons wait for a table on rib night every Monday. Of course, fresh seafood is the star with dishes like Herb Mahi Mahi with artichokes, tomatoes, asparagus, and lemon butter—and Cracked Conch Parmesan that’s as tender as a crockpot roast. The menu is big, the prices are small, and the quality is off-the-hook. Forget fancy, come in your shorts and leave with a smile—and a slice of homemade key lime pie. | Average main: $14 | MM 51 BS, 6950 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743-9181 | www.brutusseafood.com | Closed Sun.
Fish Tales Market and Eatery.
$ | SEAFOOD | This roadside eatery with its own seafood market serves signature dishes such as snapper on grilled rye with coleslaw and melted Muenster cheese and a fried fish burrito. You also can slurp luscious lobster bisque or tomato-based conch chowder. There are burgers, chicken, and dogs for those who don’t do seafood. Plan to dine early; it’s only open until 6:30 pm (4 pm on Saturday).This is a no-frills kind of place with a loyal local following, unfussy ambience, a couple of outside picnic tables, and friendly service. | Average main: $9 | MM 52.5 OS, 11711 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743–9196, 888/662–4822 | www.floridalobster.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Sun. No dinner Sat.
Key Colony Inn.
$$ | ITALIAN | The inviting aroma of an Italian kitchen pervades this family-owned favorite with a supper-club atmosphere. As you’d expect, the service is friendly and attentive. For lunch there are fish and steak entrées served with fries, salad, and bread in addition to Italian specialties. At dinner you can’t miss with traditional dishes like veal Oscar and New York strip, or such specialties as seafood Italiano, a dish of scallops and shrimp sautéed in garlic butter and served with marinara sauce over a bed of linguine. The place is renowned for its Sunday brunch, served from November to April. | Average main: $19 | MM 54 OS, 700 W. Ocean Dr. | 305/743–0100 | www.kcinn.com.
FAMILY | Keys Fisheries Market & Marina.
$$ | SEAFOOD | From the parking lot, you can’t miss the enormous tiki bar on stilts, but the walk-up window on the ground floor is the heart of this warehouse-turned-restaurant. Order at the window, pick up your food, then dine at one of the waterfront tables outfitted with rolls of paper towels. The menu is comprised of fresh seafood and a token hamburger and chicken sandwich. A huge lobster Reuben ($16.95) served on thick slices of toasted bread is the signature dish. Other delights include the shrimp burger, very rich whiskey-peppercorn snapper, and the Keys Kombo (grilled lobster, shrimp, scallops, and mahimahi for $33). The adults-only upstairs tiki bar offers a sushi and raw bar for eat-in only. Bring quarters for fish food—you can feed the tarpon while you wait for your food. | Average main: $16 | MM 49 BS, 3390 Gulfview Ave., at end of 35th St. | Turn right on 35th St. off Gulfview Ave. | 305/743–4353, 866/743–4353 | www.keysfisheries.com | Reservations not accepted.
Fodor’s Choice | Lazy Days South.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Tucked into Marathon Marina a half mile north of the Seven Mile Bridge, this restaurant offers views just as spectacular as its highly lauded food. A spin-off of an Islamorada favorite, here you’ll find a wide range of daily offerings from fried- or sautéed conch and a coconut-fried fish du jour sandwich to seafood pastas and beef tips over rice. Choose a table on the outdoor deck, or inside underneath paddle fans and surrounded by local art. | Average main: $22 | MM 47.3 OS, 725 11th St. | 305/289–0839 | www.lazydayssouth.com.
The Stuffed Pig.
$ | DINER | With only nine tables and a counter inside, this breakfast-and-lunch place is always hopping. When the weather’s right, grab a table out back. The kitchen whips up daily lunch specials like burgers, seafood platters, or pulled pork with hand-cut fries, but a quick glance around the room reveals that the all-day breakfast is the main draw. You can get the usual breakfast plates, but most newcomers opt for oddities like the lobster omelet, alligator tail and eggs, or “grits and grunts” (that’s fish, to the rest of us). | Average main: $9 | MM 49 BS, 3520 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743–4059 | www.thestuffedpig.com | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | No dinner.
Sunset Grille & Raw Bar.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | After a walk or bike ride along the Old Seven Mile Bridge, treat yourself to a seafood lunch or dinner at this vaulted tiki hut by the bridge. For lunch, start with the conch chowder or fritters, and then move on to the Voodoo grouper sandwich topped with mango-guava mayo, and finish with a tasty key lime pie. Wear your swimsuit if you want to take a dip in the pool for a post-lunch swim. Dinner specialties add a creative twist, like the Brie-stuffed filet mignon, coconut curry lobster, and Thai peanut shrimp. This is a popular place to catch the sunset, hence the name. Pool parties/barbecues are the weekend norm. | Average main: $22 | MM 47 OS, 7 Knights Key Blvd. | Marathon, Florida, United States | 305/396–7235 | www.sunsetgrille7milebridge.com.
Where to Stay
Glunz Ocean Beach Hotel & Resort.
$$ | RENTAL | The Glunz family got it right when they purchased this former time-share property and put a whole lot of love into renovating it to its full oceanfront potential. From the bottom-floor rooms, you can walk out your back door and your feet are in the sand. Inside, the decor is modern yet Keys-like, and the attention to details is thoughtful, from the backlit vanities and cool shower doors to the high-performance blenders and comfy bathrobes. Standard rooms have a small fridge and coffeemaker; kitchens (in suites only) are well equipped, too. To stay like royalty, opt for the newly acquired and remodeled three-level oceanfront villas, each with 2,300 square feet and a garage. Outdoors, you can chill at the oceanfront tiki bar or heated pool. Hungry? Walk over to Cabana Breezes for fish tacos, or have the staff drive you, via golf cart, to the local bars so you won’t drink and drive. Pros: oceanfront; convenient amenities; excellent free Wi-Fi. Cons: neighbor noise; small elevator; no interior corridors; not cheap. | Rooms from: $260 | MM 53.5 OS, 351 E. Ocean Dr. | 305/289–0525 | www.GlunzOceanBeachHotel.com | 22 rooms, 16 suites, 8 3-bed/3-bath villas | No meals.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Tranquility Bay.
$$$ | RESORT | Ralph Lauren could have designed the rooms at this stylish, luxurious resort on a nice beach. The 87 two- and three-bedroom town houses have gingerbread trim, white-picket fences, and open-floor-plan interiors decorated in trendy cottage style. The picture-perfect theme continues with the palm-fringed pool and the sandy beach edged with a ribbon of blue bay (and echoed in the blue-and-white stripes of the poolside umbrellas). Guests look like models on a photo shoot: attractive young families enjoying themselves at the sunny decks, casual outdoor bar, or elegant restaurant. Single-level guest rooms are a new addition, ideal for couples. Pros: secluded setting; gorgeous design; lovely crescent beach. Cons: a bit sterile; no real Keys atmosphere; cramped building layout. | Rooms from: $399 | MM 48.5 BS, 2600 Overseas Hwy. | 305/289–0888, 866/643–5397 | www.tranquilitybay.com | 16 rooms, 45 2-bedroom suites, 41 3-bedroom suites | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
Tooling around on two wheels is a good way to see Marathon. There’s easy cycling on a 1-mile off-road path that connects to the 2 miles of the Old Seven Mile Bridge leading to Pigeon Key.
Bike Marathon Bike Rentals.
“Have bikes, will deliver” could be the motto of this company, which gets beach cruisers to your hotel door, including a helmet and basket. They also rent kayaks. Note that there’s no physical location, but services are available Monday through Saturday 9–4 and Sunday 9–2. | Marathon | 305/743–3204 | www.bikemarathonbikerentals.com | $45 per wk.
Overseas Outfitters.
Aluminum cruisers and hybrid bikes are available for rent at this outfitter. It’s open weekdays 9–5:30 and Saturday 9–3. All rentals include a helmet and lock. | MM 48 BS, 1700 Overseas Hwy. | 305/289–1670 | www.overseasoutfitters.com | Rentals from $15 per day.
Boating
Sail, motor, or paddle—whatever your choice of modes, boating is what the Keys are all about. Brave the Atlantic waves and reefs or explore the backcountry islands on the calmer gulf side. If you don’t have a lot of boating and chart-reading experience, it’s a good idea to tap into local knowledge on a charter.
Captain Pip’s.
This operator rents 19- to 24-foot outboards as well as tackle and snorkeling gear. Fishing charters are also available with a captain and a mate (full-day charters are also available). Ask about multiday deals, or try one of their accommodation packages and walk right from your bay-front room to your boat. | MM 47.5 BS, 1410 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743–4403, 800/707–1692 | www.captainpips.com | Rentals from $195 per day; half-day charters from $650.
Fish ‘n Fun.
Get out on the water on 19- to 26-foot powerboats. Rentals can be for a half or full day. The company also offers free delivery in the Middle Keys. | MM 49.5 OS, 4590 Overseas Hwy., at Banana Bay Resort & Marina | 305/743–2275, 800/471–3440 | www.fishnfunrentals.com | From $175.
Fishing
For recreational anglers, the deepwater fishing is superb in the ocean. Marathon West Hump, one good spot, has depths ranging from 500 to more than 1,000 feet. Locals fish from a half dozen bridges, including Long Key Bridge, the Old Seven Mile Bridge, and both ends of Tom’s Harbor. Barracuda, bonefish, mahimahi, and tarpon all frequent local waters. Party boats and private charters are available.
Marathon Lady.
Morning, afternoon, and night, fish for mahimahi, grouper, and other tasty catch aboard this 73-footer, which departs on half-day excursions from the Vaca Cut Bridge (MM53), north of Marathon. Join the crew for night fishing ($55) from 6:30 to midnight from Memorial Day to Labor Day; it’s especially beautiful on a full-moon night. | MM 53 OS, 11711 Overseas Hwy., at 117th St. | 305/743–5580 | www.marathonlady.net | From $50.
Sea Dog Charters.
Captain Jim Purcell, a deep-sea specialist for ESPN’s The American Outdoorsman, provides one of the best values in Keys fishing. Next to the Seven Mile Grill, his company offers half- and full-day offshore, reef and wreck, and backcountry fishing trips, as well as fishing and snorkeling trips aboard 30- to 37-foot boats. The per-person for a half-day trip is the same regardless of whether your group fills the boat, and includes bait, light tackle, ice, coolers, and fishing licenses. If you prefer an all-day private charter on a 37-foot boat, he offers those, too, for up to six people. A fuel surcharge may apply. | MM 47.5 BS, 1248 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743–8255 | www.seadogcharters.net | From $60.
Golf
Key Colony Beach Golf & Tennis.
Designed by Wayne Spano and opened in 1973, this 9-holer near Marathon has no reserved tee times, and there’s never a rush to hurry up and play through. In fact, you can finish in about 45 minutes even with slow greens as it’s an easy, flat course to walk. Just show up any time from 7:30 am to dusk. Regulars say you only need three clubs to play the entire course, making it perfect for beginners or those who can’t hit far. A little pro shop meets basic golf needs. Club rentals are only $3 per person, but the choices are a bit worn; pull carts are $2. You’ll also have free use of the club’s tennis courts. | MM 53.5 OS, 460 8th St. | Key Colony Beach, Florida, United States | www.keycolonybeach.net/recreation.html | $113 for 9 holes; $8 for each additional 9 holes | 9 holes, 972 yards, par 3.
Scuba Diving and Snorkeling
Local dive operations take you to Sombrero Reef and Lighthouse, the most popular down-under destination in these parts. For a shallow dive and some lobster nabbing, Coffins Patch, off Key Colony Beach, is a good choice. A number of wrecks such as Thunderbolt serve as artificial reefs. Many operations out of this area will also take you to Looe Key Reef.
Hall’s Diving Center & Career Institute.
The institute has been training divers for more than 40 years. Along with conventional twice-a-day snorkel and two-tank dive trips to the reefs at Sombrero Lighthouse and wrecks like the Thunderbolt, the company has more unusual offerings like rebreather, photography, and nitrox courses. | MM 48.5 BS, 1994 Overseas Hwy. | 305/743–5929, 800/331–4255 | www.hallsdiving.com | From $45.
Spirit Snorkeling.
Join regularly scheduled snorkeling excursions to Sombrero Reef and Lighthouse Reef on this company’s comfortable catamaran. They also offer sunset cruises, private charters, and new-age yoga cruises. | MM 47.5 BS, 1410 Overseas Hwy., Slip No. 1 | 305/289–0614 | www.spiritsnorkeling.net | From $30.
Tildens Scuba Center.
Since the mid-1980s, Tildens Scuba Center has been providing lessons, tours, gear rental, and daily snorkel, scuba, and Snuba adventures. Look for the huge, colorful angelfish sculpture outside the building. | MM 49.5 BS, 4650 Overseas Hwy. | Marathon, Florida, United States | 305/743–7255, 888/728–2235 | From $45 for snorkel trips; from $65 for dive trips.
Water Sports
Jerry’s Charter Service & Watersport Rentals.
For all your water-sports-rental needs, head to this one-stop shop. It rents kayaks, Jet Skis, deckboats, snorkel equipment, fishing rods, and power- and pontoon boats. Two-hour guided Jet Ski tours (two Jet Skis minimum) are offered as well as sunset cruises. | Banana Bay Resort & Marina, MM 49.5 BS, 4590 Overseas Hwy. | Marathon, Florida, United States | 305/743–7298, 800/775–2646 | www.jerryswatersports.com | Jet Ski tours from $190.