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Bahia Honda Key | Big Pine Key | Little Torch Key
Beginning at Bahia Honda Key, the islands of the Florida Keys become smaller, more clustered, and more numerous—a result of ancient tidal water flowing between the Florida Straits and the gulf. Here you’re likely to see more birds and mangroves than other tourists, and more refuges, beaches, and campgrounds than museums, restaurants, and hotels. The islands are made up of two types of limestone, both denser than the highly permeable Key Largo limestone of the Upper Keys. As a result, freshwater forms in pools rather than percolating through the rock, creating watering holes that support alligators, snakes, deer, rabbits, raccoons, and migratory ducks. Many of these animals can be seen in the National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key. Nature was generous with her beauty in the Lower Keys, which have both Looe Key Reef, arguably the Keys’ most beautiful tract of coral, and Bahia Honda State Park, considered one of the best beaches in the world for its fine-sand dunes, clear warm waters, and panoramic vista of a historic bridge, hammocks, and azure sky and sea. Big Pine Key is fishing headquarters for a laid-back community that swells with retirees in the winter. South of it, the dribble of islands can flash by in a blink of an eye if you don’t take the time to stop at a roadside eatery or check out tours and charters at the little marinas. In truth, the Lower Keys include Key West, but since it’s as different from the rest of the Lower Keys as peanut butter is from jelly, it’s covered in its own section.
Getting Here and Around
The Lower Keys in this section include the keys between MM 37 and MM 9. The Seven Mile Bridge drops you into the lap of this homey, quiet part of the Keys.
Heed speed limits in these parts. They may seem incredibly strict given that the traffic is lightest of anywhere in the Keys, but the purpose is to protect the resident Key deer population, and officers of the law pay strict attention and will readily issue speeding tickets.
Bahia Honda Key
Bahia Honda Key is between mile markers 38 and 36.
All of Bahia Honda Key is devoted to its eponymous state park, which keeps it in a pristine state. Besides the park’s outdoor activities, it offers an up-close look at the original railroad bridge.
Exploring
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Bahia Honda State Park.
Most first-time visitors to the region are dismayed by the lack of beaches—but then they discover Bahia Honda Key. The 524-acre park sprawls across both sides of the highway, giving it 2½ miles of fabulous sandy coastline. The snorkeling isn’t bad, either; there’s underwater life (soft coral, queen conchs, random little fish) just a few hundred feet offshore. Although swimming, kayaking, fishing, and boating are the main reasons to visit, you shouldn’t miss biking along the 2½ miles of flat roads or hiking the Silver Palm Trail, with rare West Indies plants and several species found nowhere else in the nation. Along the way you’ll be treated to a variety of butterflies. Seasonal ranger-led nature programs take place at or depart from the Sand and Sea Nature Center. There are rental cabins, a campground, snack bar, gift shop, 19-slip marina, nature center, and facilities for renting kayaks and arranging snorkeling tours. Get a panoramic view of the island from what’s left of the railroad—the Bahia Honda Bridge. | MM 37 OS, 36850 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–2353 | www.floridastateparks.org/bahiahonda | $4.50 for single occupant vehicle, $8 for vehicle with 2–8 people, plus 50¢ per person up to 8 | Daily 8–sunset.
Beaches
Sandspur Beach.
Bahia Honda Key State Beach contains three beaches in all—on both the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. Sandspur Beach, the largest, is regularly declared the best beach in the Florida Keys, and you’ll be hard-pressed to argue. The sand is baby-powder soft, and the aqua water is warm, clear, and shallow. With their mild currents, the beaches are great for swimming, even with small fry. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. | MM 37 OS, 36850 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–2353 | www.floridastateparks.org/bahiahonda | $4.50 for single-occupant vehicle, $9 for vehicle with 2–8 people | Daily 8–sunset.
Where to Stay
Bahia Honda State Park Cabins.
$ | RENTAL | Elsewhere you’d pay big bucks for the wonderful water views available at these cabins on Florida Bay. Each of three cabins have two, two-bedroom units with a full kitchen and bath and air-conditioning (but no television, radio, or phone). All but one unit accommodate up to six (the other sleeps up to four and is accessible). The park also has popular campsites ($36 per night) suitable for either tents or motor homes. Some are directly on the beach—talk about a tent with a view! Cabins and campsites book up early, so reserve up to 11 months before your planned visit. Pros: great bay-front views; beachfront camping; affordable rates. Cons: books up fast; area can be buggy. | Rooms from: $163 | MM 37 OS, 36850 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–2353, 800/326–3521 | www.reserveamerica.com | 6 cabins | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Scuba Diving and Snorkeling
Bahia Honda Dive Shop.
The concessionaire at Bahia Honda State Park manages a 19-slip marina; rents wet suits, snorkel equipment, and corrective masks; and operates twice-a-day offshore-reef snorkel trips. Park visitors looking for other fun can rent kayaks and beach chairs. | MM 37 OS, 36850 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–3210 | www.bahiahondapark.com | Kayak rentals from $10 per hr; snorkel tours from $30.
Big Pine Key
Big Pine Key runs from mile marker 32 to 30.
Welcome to the Keys’ most natural holdout, where wildlife refuges protect rare and endangered animals. Here you’ve left behind the commercialism of the Upper Keys for an authentic backcountry atmosphere.
How could things get more casual than Key Largo? Find out by exiting Overseas Highway to explore the habitat of the charmingly diminutive Key deer or cast a line from No Name Bridge. Tours explore the expansive waters of National Key Deer Refuge and Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge, one of the first such refuges in the country. Along with Key West National Wildlife Refuge, it encompasses more than 200,000 acres of water and more than 8,000 acres of land on 49 small islands. Besides its namesake bird, the Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge provides habitat for uncounted species of birds and three species of sea turtles. It’s the only U.S. breeding site for the endangered hawksbill turtle.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Big Pine and the Lower Keys Chamber of Commerce. | 305/872–2411, 800/872–3722 | www.lowerkeyschamber.com.
Exploring
National Key Deer Refuge.
This 84,824-acre refuge was established in 1957 to protect the dwindling population of the Key deer, one of more than 22 animals and plants federally classified as endangered or threatened, including five that are found nowhere else on Earth. The Key deer, which stands about 30 inches at the shoulders and is a subspecies of the Virginia white-tailed deer, once roamed throughout the Lower and Middle Keys, but hunting, destruction of their habitat, and a growing human population caused their numbers to decline to 27 by 1957. The deer have made a comeback, increasing their numbers to approximately 750. The best place to see Key deer in the refuge is at the end of Key Deer Boulevard and on No Name Key, a sparsely populated island just east of Big Pine Key. Mornings and evenings are the best time to spot them. Deer may turn up along the road at any time of day, so drive slowly. They wander into nearby yards to nibble tender grass and bougainvillea blossom, but locals do not appreciate tourists driving into their neighborhoods after them. Feeding them is against the law and puts them in danger.
A quarry left over from railroad days, the Blue Hole is the largest body of freshwater in the Keys. From the observation platform and nearby walking trail, you might see the resident alligator, turtles, and other wildlife. There are two well-marked trails, recently revamped: the Jack Watson Nature Trail (0.6 mile), named after an environmentalist and the refuge’s first warden; and the Fred Mannillo Nature Trail (0.2 mile), one of the most wheelchair-accessible places to see an unspoiled pine-rockland forest and wetlands. The visitor center has exhibits on Keys biology and ecology. The refuge also provides information on the Key West National Wildlife Refuge and the Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge. Accessible only by water, both are popular with kayak outfitters. | MM 30.5 BS, Visitor Center–Headquarters, Big Pine Shopping Center, 28950 Watson Blvd. | 305/872–2239 | www.fws.gov/nationalkeydeer | Free | Daily sunrise–sunset; headquarters weekdays 8–5.
Where to Eat
Good Food Conspiracy.
$ | VEGETARIAN | Like good wine, this small natural-foods eatery and market surrenders its pleasures a little at a time. Step inside to the aroma of brewing coffee, and then pick up the scent of fresh strawberries or carrots blending into a smoothie, the green aroma of wheatgrass juice, followed by the earthy odor of hummus. Order raw or cooked vegetarian and vegan dishes, organic soups and salads, and organic coffees and teas. Bountiful sandwiches include the popular tuna melt or hummus and avocado. Sit at the counter or in the back garden and mingle with the locals as folks have been doing since the early 1980s. Then stock up on healthful snacks like dried fruits, raw nuts, and carob-covered almonds. Gluten-free items, too. | Average main: $10 | MM 30.2 OS, 30150 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–3945 | www.goodfoodconspiracy.com | Reservations not accepted | No dinner Sun.
No Name Pub.
$ | AMERICAN | This no-frills honky-tonk has been around since 1936, delighting inveterate locals and intrepid vacationers who come for the excellent pizza, cold beer, and interesting companionship. The decor, such as it is, amounts to the autographed dollar bills that cover every inch of the place. The full menu printed on place mats includes a tasty conch chowder, a half-pound fried-grouper sandwich, spaghetti and meatballs, and seafood baskets. The lighting is poor, the furnishings are rough, and the music is oldies. This former brothel and bait shop is just before the No Name Key Bridge in the midst of a residential neighborhood. It’s a bit hard to find, but worth the trouble if you want a singular Keys experience. | Average main: $15 | MM 30 BS, 30813 Watson Blvd. | From U.S. 1, turn west on Wilder Rd., left on South St., right on Ave. B, right on Watson Blvd. | 305/872–9115 | www.nonamepub.com | Reservations not accepted.
Where to Stay
Big Pine Key Fishing Lodge.
$ | HOTEL | There’s a congenial atmosphere at this lively family-owned lodge-campground-marina—a happy mix of tent campers (who have the fabulous waterfront real estate), RVers (who look pretty permanent), and motel dwellers who like to mingle at the rooftop pool and challenge each other to a game of poker. Rooms have tile floors, wicker furniture, and doors that allow sea breezes to waft through. A skywalk joins the upper story rooms with the pool and deck. Campsites range from rustic to full hook-ups. Everything is spotless—even the campground’s bathhouse—and the service is good-natured and efficient. Satellite wireless means you can pick up a signal most places on property, depending on the weather. The staff will book you a room, sell you bait, or hook you up with a fishing charter. There are plenty of family-oriented activities, so the youngsters will never complain about being bored. Discounts are available for weeklong or longer stays. Pros: local fishing crowd; nice pool; great price. Cons: RV park is too close to motel; deer will eat your food if you’re camping. | Rooms from: $114 | MM 33 OS, 33000 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–2351 | www.big-pine-key.com/fishinglodge.php | 16 rooms | No meals | To protect Key deer, no dogs allowed.
Deer Run Bed & Breakfast.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Innkeepers Jen DeMaria and Harry Appel were way ahead of the green-lodging game when they opened in 2004, and guests love how Key deer wander the grounds of this beachfront B&B on a residential street lined with mangroves. Two large oceanfront rooms are decorated in soothing earth tones and furnished with mahogany and pecan-wood furnishings. The beach-level unit is decorated in key lime and flamingo pink, with wicker furnishings, and the garden-view room is an eclectic mix that includes Victorian farmhouse doors serving as the headboard of the queen-size bed. Guests share a living room and a veranda. Rooms are stocked with organic cotton towels and cruelty-free toiletries. Pros: quiet location; vegan, organic breakfasts; complimentary bikes, kayaks, and state park passes. Cons: price is a bit high; hard to find. | Rooms from: $355 | MM 33 OS, 1997 Long Beach Dr. | 305/872–2015 | www.deerrunfloridabb.com | 4 rooms | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
A good 10 miles of paved roads run from MM 30.3 BS, along Wilder Road, across the bridge to No Name Key, and along Key Deer Boulevard into the National Key Deer Refuge. Along the way you might see some Key deer. Stay off the trails that lead into wetlands, where fat tires can do damage to the environment.
Big Pine Bicycle Center.
Owner Marty Baird is an avid cyclist and enjoys sharing his knowledge of great places to ride. He’s also skilled at selecting the right bike for the journey, and he knows his repairs, too. His old-fashioned single-speed, fat-tire cruisers rent by the half or full day. Helmets, baskets, and locks are included. | MM 30.9 BS, 31 County Rd. | 305/872–0130 | www.bigpinebikes.com | From $8.
Boating and Fishing Excursions
Those looking to fish can cast from No Name Key Bridge or hire a charter to take them into backcountry or deep waters for fishing year-round. If you’re looking for a good snorkeling spot, stay close to Looe Key Reef, which is prime scuba and snorkeling territory. One resort caters to divers with dive boats that depart from their own dock. Others can make arrangements for you.
Strike Zone Charters.
Glass-bottom-boat excursions venture into the backcountry and Atlantic Ocean. The five-hour Island Excursion emphasizes nature and Keys history; besides close encounters with birds, sea life, and vegetation, there’s a fish cookout on an island. Snorkel and fishing equipment, food, and drinks are included. This is one of the few nature outings in the Keys with wheelchair access. Deep-sea charter rates for up to six people can be arranged for a half or full day. It also offers flats fishing in the Gulf of Mexico. Dive excursions head to the wreck of the 110-foot Adolphus Busch, and scuba and snorkel trips to Looe Key Reef, prime scuba and snorkeling territory, aboard glass-bottom boats. | MM 29.6 BS, 29675 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–9863, 800/654–9560 | www.strikezonecharter.com | From $38.
Kayaking
There’s nothing like the vast expanse of pristine waters and mangrove islands preserved by national refuges from here to Key West. The mazelike terrain can be confusing, so it’s wise to hire a guide at least the first time out.
Big Pine Kayak Adventures.
There’s no excuse to skip a water adventure with this convenient kayak rental service, which delivers them to your lodging or anywhere between Seven Mile Bridge and Stock Island. The company, headed by The Florida Keys Paddling Guide author Bill Keogh, will rent you a kayak and then ferry you—called taxi-yakking—to remote islands with clear instructions on how to paddle back on your own. Rentals are by the half day or full day. Three-hour group kayak tours are the cheapest option and explore the mangrove forests of Great White Heron and Key Deer National Wildlife Refuges. More expensive four-hour custom tours transport you to exquisite backcountry areas teeming with wildlife. Kayak fishing charters are also popular. | Old Wooden Bridge Fishing Camp | From MM 30, turn right at traffic light, continue on Wilder Rd. toward No Name Key; fishing camp is just before bridge with big yellow kayak on sign out front | 305/872–7474 | www.keyskayaktours.com | From $50.
Little Torch Key
Little Torch Key is between mile markers 29 and 10.
Little Torch Key and its neighbor islands, Ramrod Key and Summerland Key, are good jumping-off points for divers headed for Looe Key Reef. The islands also serve as a refuge for those who want to make forays into Key West but not stay in the thick of things.
The undeveloped backcountry at your door makes Little Torch Key an ideal location for fishing and kayaking. Nearby Ramrod Key, which also caters to divers bound for Looe Key, derives its name from a ship that wrecked on nearby reefs in the early 1800s.
Quick Bites: Baby’s Coffee.
The aroma of rich roasting coffee beans arrests you at the door of “the Southernmost Coffee Roaster.” Buy it by the pound or by the cup along with sandwiches and sweets. | MM 15 OS, 3180 Overseas Hwy. | 305/744–9866, 800/523–2326 | www.babyscoffee.com.
Where to Eat
Geiger Key Smokehouse Bar & Grill.
$$ | AMERICAN | There’s a strong hint of the Old Keys at this oceanside marina restaurant, which came under new management in 2010 by the same folks who own Hogfish Grill on Stock Island. “On the backside of paradise,” as the sign says, its tiki structures overlook quiet mangroves at an RV park marina. Locals usually outnumber tourists. The all-day menu spans an ambitious array of sandwiches, tacos, and seafood. Local fishermen stop here for breakfast before heading out in search of the big one. Don’t miss the Sunday barbecue from 4 to 9. | Average main: $16 | MM 10, 5 Geiger Key Rd., off Boca Chica Rd., Bay Point | Geiger Key | 305/296–3553, 305/294–1230 | www.geigerkeymarina.com.
Little Palm Island Restaurant.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | The oceanfront setting calls to mind St. Barts and other high-end destinations of the Caribbean. Keep that in mind as you reach for the bill, which can also make you swoon. The restaurant at the exclusive Little Palm Island Resort—its dining room and adjacent outdoor terrace lit by candles and warmed by live music—is one of the most romantic spots in the Keys. The seasonal menu is a melding of French and Caribbean flavors, with exotic little touches. Think shrimp and yellowtail ceviche or coconut lobster bisque as a starter, followed by mahimahi with creamy cilantro polenta. The Sunday brunch buffet, the full-moon dinners with live entertainment, and the Chef’s Table Dinner are very popular. The dining room is open to nonguests on a reservations-only basis. No children under 16 are allowed on island. | Average main: $65 | MM 28.5 OS, 28500 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–2551 | www.littlepalmisland.com | Reservations essential.
Mangrove Mama’s Restaurant.
$$ | SEAFOOD | This could be the prototype for a Keys restaurant, given its shanty appearance, lattice trim, and roving sort of indoor-outdoor floor plan. Then there’s the seafood, from the ubiquitous fish sandwich (fried, grilled, broiled, or blackened) to lobster reubens, crab cakes, and coconut shrimp. Burgers, steaks, and ribs round out the menu. Hidden in a grove of banana and palm trees, the place opens for lunch, Sunday brunch, and dinner. | Average main: $20 | MM 20 BS, Sugarloaf Key | 305/745–3030 | www.mangrovemamasrestaurant.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Square Grouper.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | In an unassuming warehouse-looking building right off U.S. 1, chef and owner Lynn Bell is creating seafood magic. Just ask the locals, who wait in line for a table along with visitors in the know. But don’t let the exterior fool you: the dining room is surprisingly suave, with butcher paper–lined tables, mandarin-color walls, and textural components throughout. While the restaurant earns rave reviews, its name still earns snickers. (A “square grouper” is slang for bales of marijuana dropped into the ocean during the drug-running 1970s.) The dishes here not only taste close-your-eyes-and-grin good, their presentation is lovely. For starters, try the flash-fried conch with wasabi drizzle or home-smoked fish dip. Then perhaps order the seafood pasta with key lime butter sauce. It’s okay to drool. Upstairs, Chef Lynn has just opened a beatnik-style tapas bar. | Average main: $25 | MM 22.5 OS, Cudjoe Key | 305/745–8880 | www.squaregrouperbarandgrill.com | Closed Sun.; Mon. May–Dec.; and Sept.
Where to Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Little Palm Island Resort & Spa.
$$$$ | RESORT | Haute tropicale best describes this luxury retreat, and “second mortgage” might explain how some can afford the extravagant prices. But for those who can, it’s worth the price. This property sits on a 5.5-acre palm-fringed island 3 miles offshore from Little Torch Key. The 15 oceanfront thatch-roof bungalows house 30 suites with slate-tile baths, mosquito-netting-draped king-size beds, and British colonial–style furnishings. Other comforts include an indoor and outdoor shower, private veranda, separate living room, and comfy robes and slippers. Two Island Grand Suites are twice the size of the others and offer his-and-hers bathrooms, an outdoor hot tub, and uncompromising ocean views. To preserve the quiet atmosphere, there are no TVs in the bungalows and cell phones are highly discouraged in public areas. Pros: secluded setting; heavenly spa; easy wildlife viewing. Cons: expensive; might be too quiet for some; only accessible by boat or seaplane. | Rooms from: $1590 | MM 28.5 OS, 28500 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–2524, 800/343–8567 | www.littlepalmisland.com | 30 suites | Some meals | No one under 16 allowed on island.
Looe Key Reef Resort & Center.
$ | HOTEL | If your Keys vacation is all about diving, you won’t mind the no-frills, basic motel rooms with dated furniture at this scuba-obsessed operation because it’s the closest place to stay to the stellar reef. There is a lively tiki bar on-site but that can be a blessing (fun, good food, cold drinks) or a major inconvenience (no parking for guests, loud partiers on Harleys). Rooms do have a 42-inch TV and a small fridge and microwave. Single rooms are available. Pros: guests get discounts on dive and snorkel trips; inexpensive rates Cons: some reports of uncleanliness; unheated pool; close to the road. | Rooms from: $115 | MM 27.5 OS, 27340 Overseas Hwy., Ramrod Key | Little Torch Key, Florida, United States | 305/872–2215, 877/816–3483 | www.diveflakeys.com | 23 rooms, 1 suite | No meals.
Parmer’s Resort.
$ | HOTEL | Almost every room at this budget-friendly option has a view of South Pine Channel, with the lovely curl of Big Pine Key in the foreground. Waterfront cottages, with decks or balconies, are spread out on 6 landscaped acres, with a heated swimming pool and a five-hole putting green. There are water sports galore, and the staff will book you a kayak tour, a fishing trip, or a bike excursion, or tell you which local restaurants will deliver dinner to your room. So what if the decor feels a little like Grandma’s house and you have to pay extra ($10 or more) if you want your room cleaned daily? It’s clean and it’s comfy. Pros: bright rooms; pretty setting; good value. Cons: a bit out of the way; housekeeping costs extra; little shade around the pool. | Rooms from: $159 | MM 28.7 BS, 565 Barry Ave. | 305/872–2157 | www.parmersresort.com | 18 rooms, 12 efficiencies, 15 apartments, 2 2-bedroom cottages | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Air Tours
Conch Republic BiPlanes.
Since 1987, passengers have gotten a bird’s-eye view of the waters around Key West to spot sharks, stingrays, and other reef life, not to mention spectacular sunsets. | 3469 S. Roosevelt Blvd. | Key West, Florida, United States | 305/851–8359 | www.keywestbiplanes.com | From $174.
Boating and Kayaking
Dolphin Marina.
Dolphin Marina rents 19- and 22-foot boats with 150 horsepower for up to eight people by the half day and full day. | 28530 Overseas Hwy. | 305/872–2685 | www.dolphinmarina.net | From $200 half day, from $250 full day.
Reelax Charters.
For a guided kayak tour, join Captain Andrea Paulson of Reelax Charters, who takes you to remote locations. Charters carry up to three people and can include snorkeling and beaching on a secluded island in the Keys backcountry. | MM 17 BS, Sugarloaf Marina, 17015 Overseas Hwy., Sugarloaf Key | Little Torch Key, Florida, United States | 305/304–1392 | www.keyskayaking.com | From $240.
Sugarloaf Marina.
Rates for one-person kayaks are based on an hourly or daily rental. Two-person kayaks are also available. Delivery is free for rentals of three days or more. The folks at the marina can also hook you up with an outfitter for a day of offshore or backcountry fishing. There’s also a well-stocked ship store. | MM 17 BS, 17015 Overseas Hwy., Sugarloaf Key | 305/745–3135 | www.sugarloafkeymarina.com | From $15 per hr.
Scuba Diving and Snorkeling
In 1744 the HMS Looe, a British warship, ran aground and sank on one of the most beautiful coral reefs in the Keys, 5 nautical miles off the coast of Little Torch Key. Today the key owes its name to the ill-fated ship. The 5.3-square-nautical-mile reef, part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, has strands of elkhorn coral on its eastern margin, purple sea fans, and abundant sponges and sea urchins. On its seaward side, it drops almost vertically 50 to 90 feet. In its midst, Shipwreck Trail plots the location of nine historic wreck sites in 14 to 120 feet of water. Buoys mark the sites, and underwater signs tell the history of each site and what marine life to expect. Snorkelers and divers will find the sanctuary a quiet place to observe reef life—except in July, when the annual Underwater Music Festival pays homage to Looe Key’s beauty and promotes reef awareness with six hours of music broadcast via underwater speakers. Dive shops, charters, and private boats transport about 500 divers and snorkelers to hear the spectacle, which includes classical, jazz, new age, and Caribbean music, as well as a little Jimmy Buffett. There are even underwater Elvis impersonators.
Looe Key Reef Resort & Dive Center.
This center, the closest dive shop to Looe Key Reef, offers two affordable trips daily, 7:30 am or 12:15 pm (for divers, snorkelers, or bubble watchers). The maximum depth is 30 feet, so snorkelers and divers go on the same boat. Call to check for availability for wreck and night dives. The dive boat, a 45-foot catamaran, is docked at the full-service Looe Key Reef Resort. | Looe Key Reef Resort, MM 27.5 OS, 27340 Overseas Hwy. | Ramrod Key | 305/872–2215, 877/816–3483 | www.diveflakeys.com | From $39.
En Route: The huge object that looks like a white whale floating over Cudjoe Key (MM 23–21) isn’t a figment of your imagination. It’s Fat Albert, a radar balloon that monitors local air and water traffic.