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Gasparilla Island (Boca Grande) | Cabbage Key | Sanibel and Captiva Islands | Fort Myers Beach (Estero Island)
A maze of islands in various stages of habitation fronts Fort Myers mainland, separated by the Intracoastal Waterway. Some are accessible via a causeway; to reach others, you need a boat. If you cut through bay waters, you have a good chance of being escorted by bottlenose dolphins. Mostly birds and other wild creatures inhabit some islands, which are given over to state parks. Traveler-pampering hotels on Sanibel, Captiva, and Fort Myers Beach give way to rustic cottages, old inns, and cabins on quiet Cabbage Key and Pine Island, which have no beaches because they lie between the barrier islands and mainland. Others are devoted to resorts. When exploring barrier island beaches, keep one eye on the sand: collecting seashells is a major pursuit in these parts.
Gasparilla Island (Boca Grande)
43 miles northwest of Fort Myers.
Before roads to the Lower Gulf Coast were even talked about, wealthy Northerners came by train to spend the winter at the Gasparilla Inn. The inn was completed in 1913 in Boca Grande on Gasparilla Island, named, legend has it, for a Spanish pirate who set up headquarters in these waters. Although condominiums and modern mansions occupy the rest of Gasparilla, much of the town of Boca Grande evokes another era. The mood is set by the Old Florida homes and tree-framed roadways. The island’s calm is disrupted in the spring when anglers descend with a vengeance on Boca Grande Pass, considered among the best tarpon-fishing spots in the world.
Getting Here and Around
Boca Grande is more than an hour’s drive northwest of Fort Myers. Day-trippers can catch a charter boat or rent a boat, dock at a marina, and rent a bike or golf cart for a day of exploring and lunching. North of it stretches a long island, home to Don Pedro Island State Park and Palm Island Resort, both accessible only by boat. Also nearby is the off-the-beaten-path but car-accessible island of Manasota Key and its fishing resort community of Englewood Beach.
Exploring
Gasparilla Island State Park and Port Boca Grande Lighthouse Museum.
The island’s beaches are its greatest prize and lie within the state park at the south end. The long, narrow beach ends at Boca Grande Pass, famous for its deep waters and tarpon fishing. The pretty, two-story, circa-1890 lighthouse once marked the pass for mariners. In recent years it has been restored as a museum that explores the island’s fishing and railroad heritage. The lighthouse is closed in August. | 880 Belcher Rd. | Boca Grande | 941/964–0060 | www.floridastateparks.org/gasparillaisland | $3 per vehicle; $3 suggested donation to lighthouse (exact change only) | Park daily 8–sunset. Lighthouse Nov.–Apr., Mon.–Sat. 10–4, Sun. noon–4; May–July, Sept., and Oct., Wed.–Sat. 10–4, Sun. noon–4.
Where to Eat
The Loose Caboose.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Revered by many—including Katharine Hepburn in her time—for its homemade ice cream, this is also a good spot for solid, affordable fare, from burgers and a Thanksgiving wrap (turkey and cranberry sauce) to chicken potpie and crispy duck with orange-teriyaki sauce. Housed in the town’s historic depot, it offers indoor and patio seating in an all-American setting. Expect slow service in season, and paper plates with plastic utensils. | Average main: $24 | 433 W. 4th St. | Boca Grande | 941/964–0440 | www.loosecaboose.biz | No dinner Wed. or Apr.–Dec.
Where to Stay
The Boca Grande Resort.
$$$ | RESORT | Once known as Uncle Henry’s, this marine-lodging-shopping complex north of downtown Boca Grande has undergone a serious upgrade and injection of character. Tommy Bahama furnishings decorate the 16 rooms and 2, 2-bedroom suites. A stylish waterside bistro, casual bar and grill, swimming pool, and shops make up for the resort’s distance from town. Pros: intimate; waterfront; shops; top-notch restaurant; lots of character. Cons: distance from downtown; high priced; no beach. | Rooms from: $209 | 5800 Gasparilla Rd. | 941/964–4443 | www.thebocagranderesort.com | 16 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.
Gasparilla Inn & Club.
$$$ | HOTEL | Once the playground of social-register members such as the Vanderbilts and DuPonts, the gracious pale-yellow wooden hotel was built by shipping industrialists in the early 1900s. Lodge rooms are not lavishly decorated by today’s standards, but they match the inn’s feminine Victorian air. In addition to the charming, historic cottages on property, the inn now has five spacious, coastal-style homes to its name. The inn takes up much of the town of Boca Grande with its rich-blooded amenities—sprawling lawns, a golf course, croquet, and a beach club with a 10-room spa. In recent years the inn has gone from a mandatory meal plan in high season to more flexible packages customized to guests’ desires. In summer (mid-July through mid-October), the inn proper closes and only the cottages are available for lodging. Gentlemen are required to wear a jacket in the main dining room during the winter season. Pros: historic property; nicely renovated. Cons: expensive rates; the quirks of a very old building. | Rooms from: $385 | 500 Palm Ave. | Boca Grande | 941/964–2201, 800/996–1913 | www.gasparillainn.com | 137 rooms, 18 cottages, 5 homes | Multiple meal plans.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
Island Bike ‘N Beach.
Boca Grande’s erstwhile railroad bed has been paved for a 7-mile bike path that golf-cart drivers also share. Island Bike ‘N Beach rents bikes, golf carts, and stand-up paddleboards. | 333 Park Ave. | Boca Grande | 941/964–0711 | www.islandbikenbeach.com.
Cabbage Key
5 miles south of Boca Grande.
Cabbage Key is the ultimate island-hopping escape in these parts. Some say Jimmy Buffett was inspired to write “Cheeseburger in Paradise” after a visit to its popular restaurant.
Getting Here and Around
You’ll need to take a boat—from Bokeelia or Pineland, on Pine Island, or from Captiva Island—to get to this island, which sits at mile marker 60 on the Intracoastal Waterway. Local operators offer day trips and luncheon cruises.
Where to Stay
Cabbage Key Inn.
$ | HOTEL | Atop an ancient Calusa Indian shell mound and accessible only by boat, the friendly, somewhat quirky inn built by novelist and playwright Mary Roberts Rinehart in 1938 welcomes guests seeking quiet and isolation. It’s surrounded by 100 acres of tropical vegetation, through which a natural trail runs. In addition to the inn rooms, there are guest cottages scattered throughout the property, some of which have kitchens and can accommodate up to eight guests. Rooms range from bare-bones to more modern and family-friendly. There’s a full-service marina and a restaurant whose dining room is papered with thousands of dollar bills. One of the many perks of staying here is close access to the remote and pristine beach of Cayo Costa, a short boat trip from Cabbage Key. Pros: plenty of solitude; Old Florida character. Cons: two-night minimum stay; accessible only by boat or seaplane; limited amenities, some rooms have no TV; in season the restaurant is busy. | Rooms from: $175 | 239/283–2278 | www.cabbagekey.com | 6 rooms, 8 cottages | No meals.
Sanibel and Captiva Islands
23 miles southwest of downtown Fort Myers.
Sanibel Island is famous as one of the world’s best shelling grounds, a function of the unusual east–west orientation of the island’s south end. Just as the tide is going out and after storms, the pickings can be superb, and shell seekers performing the telltale “Sanibel stoop” patrol every beach carrying bags of conchs, whelks, cockles, and other bivalves and gastropods. (Remember, it’s unlawful to pick up live shells.) Away from the beach, flowery vegetation decorates small shopping complexes, pleasant resorts and condo complexes, mom-and-pop motels, and casual restaurants. But much of the two-lane road down the spine of the island is bordered by nature reserves that have made Sanibel as well known among bird-watchers as it is among seashell collectors.
Captiva Island, connected to the northern end of Sanibel by a bridge, is quirky and engaging. At the end of a twisty road lined with million-dollar mansions lies a delightful village of shops, eateries, and beaches.
Getting Here and Around
Sanibel Island is approximately 23 miles southwest of downtown Fort Myers, and Captiva lies north of 12-mile-long Sanibel. If you’re flying into Southwest Florida International Airport, an on-demand taxi for up to three passengers to Sanibel or Captiva costs about $60–$68; additional passengers are charged $10 each. Sanibel Island is accessible from the mainland via the Sanibel Causeway (toll $6 round-trip). Captiva Island lies across a small pass from Sanibel’s north end, accessible by bridge.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Sanibel and Captiva Islands Chamber of Commerce. | 1159 Causeway Rd. | Sanibel | 239/472–1080 | www.sanibel-captiva.org.
Exploring
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum.
There have been big changes here at the museum and it all starts before you even enter, with giant shell photos on the exterior of the building by nature photographer Henry Domke. Once inside, there are more than 30 permanent and short-term exhibits. See a life-size display of native Calusa and how they used shells. From tiny to enormous, view local specimens and a variety from around the world. Play in the colorful kids’ lab. Watch movies about how shells are formed and where to find them. Get a close-up look at mollusks in the 8-foot-long, live-viewing tank. The museum has also added two full-time marine biologists who lead daily tank talks (at 11:30 and 3), host daily guided beach walks, and lead a weekly marine naturalist cruise (Thursday). From colossal squids to Shelling 101, make this your first stop and you’ll be giving your own talks on the beach. Don’t miss the museum store, filled with upscale nautical gifts. | 3075 Sanibel–Captiva Rd. | Sanibel | 239/395–2233, 888/679–6450 | www.shellmuseum.org | $11 | Daily 10–5.
Clinic for the Rehabilitation of Wildlife (C.R.O.W).
In existence for more than 40 years, the clinic currently cares for more than 4,000 wildlife patients each year. The center offers a look inside the world of wildlife medicine through exhibits, videos, interactive displays, touch screens, and critter cams that feed live footage from four different animal spaces. Wildlife walks give a behind-the-scenes look and can be reserved for $20 per person. This is an excellent facility, but the displays may be too graphic for young visitors. | 3883 Sanibel–Captiva Rd. | Sanibel | 239/472–3644 | www.crowclinic.org | $5 | Tues.–Sat. 10–4.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge.
More than half of Sanibel is occupied by the subtly beautiful 6,300 acres of wetlands and jungly mangrove forests named after a conservation-minded Pulitzer prize–winning political cartoonist. The masses of roseate spoonbills and ibis and the winter flock of white pelicans here make for a good show even if you’re not a die-hard bird-watcher. Birders have counted some 230 species, including herons, ospreys, and the timid mangrove cuckoo. Raccoons, otters, alligators, and a lone American crocodile also may be spotted. The 4-mile Wildlife Drive is the main way to explore the preserve; drive, walk, or bicycle along it, or ride a specially designed open-air tram with an onboard naturalist. QR-coded signs link to interactive YouTube videos and a new “Discover Ding” app combines social media, GPS, and trivia to make learning on-site fun. There are also a couple of short walking trails, including one to a Calusa shell mound. Or explore from the water via canoe or kayak (guided tours are available). The best time for bird-watching is in the early morning and about an hour before or after low tide; the observation tower along the road offers prime viewing. Interactive exhibits in the free visitor center, at the entrance to the refuge, demonstrate the refuge’s various ecosystems and explain its status as a rest stop along a major bird-migration route. A new hands-on manatee exhibit was recently unveiled, too. Wildlife Drive is closed to vehicular traffic on Friday, but you can still kayak and do tours from the Tarpon Bay Recreation Area. | 1 Wildlife Dr., off Sanibel–Captiva Rd. at MM 2 | Sanibel | 239/472–1100 for refuge, 239/472–8900 for kayaking and tours | www.fws.gov/dingdarling | $5 per car, $1 for pedestrians and bicyclists, tram $13 | Education Center Jan.–Apr., daily 9–5; May–Dec., daily 9–4. Wildlife Drive Sat.–Thurs. 7:30–½ hr before sunset.
FAMILY | Sanibel–Captiva Conservation Foundation.
For a quiet walk to watch for inhabitants of Sanibel’s interior wetlands, follow some or all of the 4½ miles of interlocking walking trails here and climb the observation tower. View information about wildlife research projects, a butterfly house, live turtles, snakes, and a marine touch tank at the nature center. In winter, guided walks and programs are available on and off property. | 3333 Sanibel–Captiva Rd. | Sanibel | 239/472–2329 | www.sccf.org | $5; 17 and under free | Oct.–May, weekdays 8:30–4; June–Sept., weekdays 8:30–3.
Sanibel Historical Museum & Village.
Charming buildings from the island’s past include a general store, a one-room schoolhouse, 1927 post office, a tearoom, a 1925 winter-vacation cottage, a 1898 fishing cottage, and the 1913 Rutland House Museum, containing old documents and photographs, artifacts, and period furnishings. All buildings are authentic and have been moved from their original locations to the museum grounds. | 950 Dunlop Rd. | Sanibel | 239/472–4648 | www.sanibelmuseum.org | $10 | Mid-Oct.–Apr., Wed.–Sat. 10–4; May–July, Wed.–Sat. 10–1; closed Aug.–mid-Oct.
Beaches
Red tide, an occasional natural beach occurrence that kills fish, also has negative effects on the human respiratory system. It causes scratchy throats, runny eyes and noses, and coughing. Although the effects aren’t long-term, it’s a good idea to avoid the beach when red tide is in the vicinity (look for posted signs).
Sanibel
FAMILY | Bowman’s Beach.
This long, wide beach on Sanibel’s northwest end is the island’s most secluded strand, but it also has the most amenities. Park facilities include a playground, picnic tables, grills, bathrooms, and bike racks. It is famed for its shell collecting and spectacular sunsets at the north end—try to spot the green flash, said to occur just as the sun sinks below the horizon. For utmost seclusion, walk north from the two main access points where bridges cross an estuary to reach the beach. It’s a long walk from the parking lot over the estuary to the beach, so pack accordingly and plan on a long stay. Tall Australian pines provide shade behind the white sands. Typically gentle waves are conducive to swimming and wading with kids. Amenities: parking (fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunsets; swimming; walking. | Bowman Beach Rd., at Blind Pass | 239/472–3700 | Parking $3 per hr.
FAMILY | Gulfside Park Preserve.
The beach is quiet, safe from strong currents, and good for solitude, bird-watching, and shell-finding. There are restrooms, and long stretches to stroll. The white sand is slightly coarse and borders a park with shade, picnic tables, and a loop nature trail. Low-rise resorts and homes lie to the east and west of the parking lot accesses. Amenities: parking (fee); toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. | Algiers La., off Casa Ybel Rd. | 239/472–3700 | Parking $3 per hr.
Lighthouse Beach.
At Sanibel’s eastern tip, the beach is guarded by the frequently photographed Sanibel Lighthouse, built in 1884, before the island was settled. The lighthouse is not currently open to the public, but there’s talk of refurbishing the tower so visitors can climb to the top. The park rounds the island’s east end for waterfront on both the gulf and bay, where a fishing pier draws avid anglers. Shaded nature trails connect the two shores; the park is listed on the Great Florida Birding Trail because of its fall and spring migration fall-outs. A pair of ospreys frequently perch on the lighthouse railing; look and listen for these local residents while you’re there. Amenities: parking (fee); toilets. Best for: sunrise; walking; windsurfing. | East end of Periwinkle Way | 239/472–3700 | Parking $3 per hr.
Tarpon Bay Beach.
This centrally located beach is safer for swimming than beaches at the passes, where waters move swiftly. It is, however, one of the more populated beaches, lined with low-rise condos and resorts set back behind vegetation. Casa Ybel Resort lies east of the public access; other smaller resorts can be found along the stretch to the west. The parking lot is a five-minute walk from the beach, so drop off your gang and gear before you park (the lot is open daily from 7 am to 7 pm). At the beach, you can walk for miles in either direction on soft white sand studded with shells. Amenities: parking (fee); toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. | Off Sanibel–Captiva Rd., Tarpon Bay Rd. at Gulf Dr. | Drive to end of West Gulf Dr. and east to Casa Ybel Rd. | 239/472–3700 | Parking $3 per hr.
Captiva
FAMILY | Alison Hagerup Beach Park.
This park, once called Captiva Beach, is acclaimed as one of the nation’s most romantic beaches for its fabulous sunsets—the best view on Sanibel and Captiva. Shells stud the white, wide sands. The parking lot is filled with potholes and is small, so arrive early, watch where you’re driving, and bring an umbrella if you need shade. The beach can get crowded, especially in the busy winter and spring seasons. Facilities are limited to portable restrooms and a volleyball net, but stores and restaurants are nearby. South Seas Island Resort lines the north end of the beach. Amenities: parking (fee); toilets. Best for: sunsets; swimming; walking. | Captiva Dr., at north end | Parking 2 hrs $5, 5 hrs $10.
Turner Beach.
Looking for some romance? This is a prime sunset-watching spot on the southern point of Captiva. Strong currents through Blind Pass make swimming tricky but shelling amazing, and parking is limited. Surfers head here when winds whip up the waves. The beach is narrower than in other parts of the island. No buildings sit on the beach, but ‘Tween Waters Resort is across the road to the north of the public access, and Castaways Beach & Bay Cottages is beachfront across the bridge on the Sanibel side of Blind Pass. Restaurants are nearby. Amenities: parking (fee); toilets. Best for: sunsets; surfing; walking. | Captiva Dr. at Blind Pass | Parking $3 per hr.
Where to Eat
Sanibel
FAMILY | Lazy Flamingo.
$ | AMERICAN | At two Sanibel locations, plus two more in neighboring Fort Myers and Pine Island Sound, this is a friendly neighborhood hangout enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. All of these restaurants have a funky nautical look à la Key West and a popular following for their Dead Parrot Wings (buffalo wings coated with tongue-scorching hot sauce), mesquite-grilled grouper sandwiches, burgers, and steamer pots. The Flamingo garlic bread is always a hit, and the grouper Caesar salad is cheesy and award-winning. Kids’ meals are served on a Frisbee that makes not only a great souvenir but also a cool new beach toy. The second Sanibel location is at 1036 Periwinkle Way, 239/472–6939. | Average main: $12 | 6520C Pine Ave. | 239/472–5353 | www.lazyflamingo.com | Reservations not accepted.
Over Easy Café.
$$ | AMERICAN | Locals head to this chicken-theme eatery mainly for breakfast and lunch, although it also serves dinner in season. Kick-start the day with the egg Reuben sandwich, veggie Benedict, pancakes, or omelets such as crab and asparagus or “meat-lovers.” Breakfast is available until 3 pm. The lunch and dinner menu includes a vast variety of salads, sandwiches, wraps, and seafood. Indoor dining is cheerful; outdoors is pet-friendly. While waiting for a table, you can shop for gifts next door. | Average main: $16 | 630-1 Tarpon Bay Rd. | 239/472–2625 | www.overeasycafesanibel.com | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.
Fodor’s Choice | Sweet Melissa’s Cafe.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | You’ve seen them before, those people who take photos of their food: you’ll become one of them when you eat here. Choose from full portions or small plates, but the latter are recommended so that you can savor more outstanding dishes in one sitting. Lunch offers simpler dishes like sandwiches (smoked chicken with avocado aioli) and salads (grilled romaine with truffle drizzle). Dinner truly brings out Melissa’s magic. Even if you don’t like duck, you’ll love it here. Fish stew, grilled smoked beef tenderloin, fresh mahi: they all are good choices for people who don’t mind sharing. Chef Melissa also makes her own sorbet. Dine indoors, on the patio, at the bar, or at the chef’s bar overlooking the exhibition kitchen. Live guitar music adds to the experience. | Average main: $25 | 1625 Periwinkle Way | 239/472–1956 | www.sweetmelissascafe.com | Reservations essential | No lunch weekends.
Fodor’s Choice | Thistle Lodge Restaurant.
$$$$ | CONTEMPORARY | Now this is romance: the lodge was built as a wedding gift from a husband to his wife and is now a gift to those lucky enough to dine here. Lush green grounds are right outside the window, then just beyond is the Gulf of Mexico and Sanibel’s seashell-laden shores. But it’s more than the views that will lull you into a dreamy mood. The food is fresh, elegant, and flavorful. Entrées span everything from Parmesan-and-herb-crusted black grouper to Asian braised beef short ribs. Frequent patrons back in the day included Thomas Edison and Henry Ford. | Average main: $35 | Casa Ybel Resort, 2255 W. Gulf Dr. | 239/472–9200 | www.thistlelodge.com.
Timbers Restaurant & Fish Market.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | One of Sanibel’s longest-running restaurants successfully satisfies visitors and residents with consistent quality and a full net of nightly catches and specials. The fish market inside the door is a sure sign of freshness, and most of the dishes showcase seafood simply and flavorfully. The oysters Romanoff with caviar, shallots, and sour cream are a nice twist on oyster “sliders.” Corn flakes grant the crunchy grouper and shrimp rights to their names. Choose to have your fresh catch blackened, fried, or broiled, or go for a sirloin or beef filet. House salad or soup du jour comes with each entrée, or you can upgrade to the crab bisque, which just might be the best on the island. For lighter fare and a sports bar vibe, Sanibel Grill shares the same space. | Average main: $21 | 703 Tarpon Bay Rd. | 239/472–3128 | www.prawnbroker.com | Reservations not accepted.
Fodor’s Choice | Traders Store & Café.
$$$ | AMERICAN | In the midst of a warehouse-size store, this bistro, accented with stunning Florida photography from Alan Maltz, is a favorite of locals. The marvelous sesame-seared tuna lunch salad with Asian slaw and wasabi vinaigrette exemplifies the creative fare. For dinner, try the barbecued baby back ribs, macadamia-crusted grouper, or any of the day’s finely crafted specials. A local band entertains two nights a week. The bar serves light nibbles and happy-hour twofers. While waiting for your food, visit the attached shop filled with everything from affordable trinkets to pricey island wear. | Average main: $26 | 1551 Periwinkle Way | 239/472–7242 | www.traderssanibel.com | Reservations not accepted.
Captiva
FAMILY | Bubble Room.
$$$ | AMERICAN | This lively, kitschy visitors’ favorite is fun for families and nostalgic types with fat wallets. Servers wear scout uniforms and funny headgear. Electric trains circle overhead, glossies of Hollywood stars past and present line the walls, and glass tabletops showcase old-time toys. There’s so much going on that you might not notice your food is not quite as happening, and somehow that’s okay. After grazing your basket of cheesy bubble bread and sweet, yeasty sticky buns, go for slow-cooked prime rib or shrimp sautéed in spicy tequila garlic butter. The homemade triple-layer cakes, delivered in hefty wedges, are notorious, and the gooey orange crunch cake is a signature favorite. Kids are welcome and will love to gawk at the Christmas Room before or after they gobble up the hand-breaded chicken fingers. Be prepared to wait for a table in season. | Average main: $25 | 15001 Captiva Dr. | 239/472–5558 | www.bubbleroomrestaurant.com | Reservations not accepted.
Fodor’s Choice | Captiva House.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | This wonderfully romantic restaurant is casual, comfortable, and considered by many to be the best fine-dining restaurant on Captiva Island. Executive Chef Jason Miller adds a fresh, Florida flair to seafood dishes like the island snapper wrap (moist snapper wrapped in crispy phyllo then drizzled with an aged balsamic glaze). Tempting appetizers, creative salads, juicy steaks, and tantalizing desserts round out the menu. The restaurant has its own baker on-site for sweet and savory breads and cakes. No need to dress up; island casual is welcome. Make time to enjoy the fantastic sunsets just across the street at the beach. | Average main: $32 | ‘Tween Waters Inn, 15951 Captiva Dr. | 239/472–5161 | www.tween-waters.com/dining.php | Reservations essential.
Green Flash.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Good food and sweeping views of quiet waters and a mangrove island keep boaters and others coming back to this casual indoor-outdoor restaurant. Seafood dominates, but there’s a bit of everything on the menu, from barbecued shrimp and bacon to grilled swordfish to pork tenderloin wrapped in prosciutto and puff pastry. For lunch, try the Green Flash sandwich (smoked turkey and prosciutto or vegetables, both with cheese on grilled focaccia). Grouper tacos are filling and dripping with freshness. On cool, sunny days, grab a table out back, dockside. | Average main: $23 | 15183 Captiva Dr. | 239/472–3337 | www.greenflashcaptiva.com.
The Mucky Duck.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | A longtime fixture on Captiva’s beach, it parodies British pubs with its name and sense of humor. Since 1975, it has consistently drawn crowds that occupy themselves with walking the beach and watching sunset while waiting for their name to be called for a table indoors or out. A little Brit, a lot Florida, the revamped menu has kept some favored specialties such as barbecued shrimp wrapped in bacon appetizer, crab cakes, fish-and-chips, and frozen key lime pie. | Average main: $24 | 11546 Andy Rosse La. | 239/472–3434 | www.muckyduck.com | Reservations not accepted.
Where to Stay
Sanibel
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Casa Ybel Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | Palm trees, quiet ponds, and gazebos set the mood at this resort on 23 acres of gulf-facing grounds. Inside the two-floor stilt buildings, the one- and two-bedroom apartments are roomy and contemporary, with full kitchens, updated furnishings, tasteful patterns, and big screened-in porches that look out to the beach. The sprawling pool area offers plenty of chaise lounges and a shady respite, along with Coconuts poolside bar and grill, a hot tub, children’s wade pool, and an Olympic-size pool. Pros: on the beach; good restaurants; lots of recreational opportunities. Cons: spa treatments in-room only; minimum-stay requirement in some units. | Rooms from: $599 | 2255 W. Gulf Dr. | 239/472–3145, 800/276–4753 | www.casaybelresort.com | 40 1-bedroom units, 74 2-bedroom units | No meals.
Island Inn.
$$$ | RESORT | Choose from your own cottage on the beach, or take your pick from six different styles of modernized hotel rooms at the most established inn on Sanibel. The inn was built in 1895 as the home of Will and Harriet Matthews, whose love of entertaining turned this place into the sought-after resort that it is today. Value-enthusiasts will be happy here because there’s no resort fee and most everything is included, like tennis, shuffleboard, a heated pool, free breakfast, free Wi-Fi, and beach chairs. If you want to spend some of your hard-earned money for dinner, do try the restaurant, Traditions on the Beach. It’s worth it. Pros: right on the beach; free breakfast; laundry facilities. Cons: minimum stays in season; furniture and bathrooms are dated in some units. | Rooms from: $360 | 3111 West Gulf Dr. | 239/472–1561 | www.islandinn.com | 42 rooms; 7 cottages | Breakfast.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Sanibel Siesta on the Beach.
$$$ | RENTAL | You might want to move right in and never leave once you discover these luxurious two-bedroom/two-bath condos right on the sand. Each unit is individually decorated, but all are practically impeccable with a spacious floor plan that includes a fully equipped kitchen and a large screened lanai. Views are either of the gardens or the Gulf. End units have the added bonus of a second lanai off the master bedroom. Unique to this resort is the fact that six of the eight buildings offer private garage parking for your vehicle. Inside your garage, you’ll find beach chairs, umbrellas, even sand toys for the kids. What’s not to love? You can also play tennis or shuffleboard. Pros: on the beach; swimming pool; free Wi-Fi. Cons: minimum stays; office closes early. | Rooms from: $330 | 1246 Fulgur St. | 239/472–4117 | www.sanibelsiesta.com | 67 2-bedroom condos | No meals.
Seaside Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | Tucked among the tropical greenery, this beachfront inn is a pleasant alternative to the area’s larger resorts. Suites are done up in charming cottage style with rattan furnishings and have full kitchens and high-definition flat-screen TVs. Rooms come with a handy wet-bar area equipped with a coffeemaker, toaster, microwave, and small fridge. Propane grills are on-site. Continental breakfast is delivered to the room the day prior and bikes are complimentary. Guests may use amenities at nearby Sanibel Inn and the Dunes Golf Club. Pros: intimate feel; lots of character; beautiful beachfront. Cons: no on-site restaurant; cramped parking lot. | Rooms from: $289 | 541 E. Gulf Dr. | 239/472–1400, 866/565–5092 | www.seasideinn.com | 32 rooms, 6 cottages, 4 suites | Breakfast.
Shalimar.
$$$ | HOTEL | Well-maintained grounds and an inviting beach appeal at this small property. Units occupy tin-roof two-story cottages and a two-story motel set back from the beach amid palm trees and other subtropical greenery. The small pool is in the courtyard, and there are barbecue grills. Pros: on the beach; intimate feel; variety of accommodations. Cons: no restaurants or shopping nearby. | Rooms from: $325 | 2823 W. Gulf Dr. | Sanibel | 239/472–1353, 800/472–1353 | www.shalimar.com | 20 efficiencies, 11 1-bedroom units, 2 2-bedroom units | No meals.
FAMILY | Sundial Beach Resort and Spa.
$$ | RESORT | With multimillion-dollar renovations completed in 2015, Sanibel’s largest resort encompasses 400 privately owned studio, one-, two-, and three-bedroom low-rise condo units, about half of which are in its rental program. The gulf-front conference facilities attract groups, but families return each year for the seashell slide at the main pool (there are six pools in all) and the numerous on-site amenities. Water-sports rentals, new soft tennis courts, volleyball, an amazing fitness center, a game room, a kids’ camp, and an Eco-Center keep everyone busy. New to the lineup is the Spa at Sundial and several on-site dining venues. Pros: great beach; plenty of amenities; no charge for beach chairs. Cons: conference crowds; packed pool area, $30 per night resort fee. | Rooms from: $279 | 1451 Middle Gulf Dr. | 239/472–4151, 866/565–5093 | www.sundialresort.com | 184 1-, 2-, and 3-bedroom units (varies according to rental program participants) | No meals.
Waterside Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | Palm trees, sea-grape trees, pastel cottages, and a tiki on the Gulf set the scene at this quiet beachside vacation spot. Rooms and efficiencies in the main building are modestly furnished, with bright cobalt-blue-and-white interiors, and have balconies or patios and a partial view of the Gulf. Single-story cottages are named for fruits—apricot, kiwi, raspberry, and so on—and are painted appropriately on the outside. The pool area is small but has a handicap lift, which is an unusual but welcome addition for guests with disabilities. Pros: beachfront location; intimate feel; small pets allowed in most cottages. Cons: office closes at night; cottage interiors are worn; parking for only one car per unit. | Rooms from: $291 | 3033 W. Gulf Dr. | 239/472–1345, 800/741–6166 | www.watersideinn.net | 4 rooms, 10 efficiencies, 13 cottages | No meals.
West Wind Inn.
$$$ | HOTEL | Families and couples flock to this resort for its upscale, West Gulf Drive location on the residential side of the island. Rooms vary from regular guest rooms with efficiencies (microwave and mini-refrigerator) to those with larger full kitchenettes, and all have been updated with high-def TVs, modern bathrooms, and simple, casual decor. Views vary, too, from pool to Gulf to the sought-after directly on the Gulf. The oversize pool area is lined with plenty of umbrella-shaded tables and loungers. A favorite spot is the elevated pool bar and grill, showcasing spectacular water views. Look for dolphins playing in the surf. Another on-site restaurant, Normandie’s Seaside Pub, is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner year-round. Pros: on the beach; quiet side of the island; laundry facilities on-site. Cons: Wi-Fi can be sporadic; pool towels are small and wafer thin. | Rooms from: $340 | 3345 W. Gulf Dr. | 239/472–1541 | www.westwindinn.com | 103 rooms | No meals.
Captiva
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | South Seas Island Resort.
$$$ | RESORT | This full-service 330-acre resort feels as lush as its name suggests, and with 18 swimming pools (one with two tubular slides), private restaurants including Doc Ford’s, shops, a full-service spa, a nature center stocked with live animals, a family interactive center, and a 9-hole beachfront golf course, it won’t disappoint. Guarded by a gatehouse, stylish low-rise accommodations are scattered over the property but are concentrated either near the marina at North Pointe or on South Village, near the shopping complex. Dunes fringe a pristine 2½-mile beach, and mangroves grow along the main road. Water on three sides give the resort a delicious seclusion, but trolleys take you around the property. Pros: full range of amenities; exclusive feel; car-free transportation. Cons: high rates in season; a bit isolated; spread out. | Rooms from: $339 | 5400 Plantation Rd. | 239/472–5111, 888/222–7848 | www.southseas.com | 106 rooms, 365 suites | No meals.
‘Tween Waters Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Besides its great beach-to-bay location, this inn has historic value and in 2011 was listed in the National Register of Historic Places. In the 1930s, Pulitzer prize–winning cartoonist and conservationist “Ding” Darling, namesake of Sanibel’s refuge, stayed in the historic cottages here, which are the most charming of the property’s accommodations. Anne Morrow Lindbergh, wife of famed aviator Charles, also stayed in one of the cottages while authoring her book Gifts from the Sea. Today, water-sports enthusiasts especially like the rentals and charters at the marina. Couples and families are at home in the beautiful multibedroom units with kitchen facilities and updated furnishings. On-site dining options include Captiva House, Oasis pool bar, and Crow’s Nest lounge. The Spa at ‘Tween Waters Inn is full-service and a welcome indulgence. Pros: great views; lots of water-sports options; free Wi-Fi. Cons: beach is across the road. | Rooms from: $250 | Captiva Dr. | 239/472–5161, 800/223–5865 | www.tween-waters.com | 48 rooms, 24 studios, 41 1-bedroom suites, 4 2-bedroom suites, 2 3-bedroom suites, 19 cottages | Breakfast.
Shopping
Sanibel is known for its art galleries, shell shops, and one-of-a-kind boutiques; the several small open-air shopping complexes are inviting, with their tropical flowers and shady ficus trees.
Sanibel
Periwinkle Place.
The largest complex of outdoor Sanibel shopping has 26 shops in a parklike setting on 7 acres. Fountains, gazebos, and a playground make it even more family friendly. | 2075 Periwinkle Way | 734/769–2289 | www.periwinkleplace.com.
Seashells.com.
Among the island’s cache of shell shops, this one is favored by serious collectors and crafters because of its reasonable prices and the knowledgeable family that runs it. For shell gifts, the family operates another little shop right behind the warehouse-size one. It’s super easy to find, located right on the main drag. | 905 Fitzhugh St. | 239/472–1603 | www.seashells.com.
She Sells Sea Shells.
At She Sells Sea Shells, everything imaginable is made from shells, from mirrors to lamps to Christmas ornaments. The owner wrote the book on shell art, and you can buy it here. You can also purchase local shells, like the prized junonia and pick up a T-shirt at a fair price. A second location is on the same road at 2422 Periwinkle. | 1157 Periwinkle Way | 239/472–6991 | www.sanibelshellcrafts.com.
Captiva
Fodor’s Choice | Jungle Drums.
Expect the unexpected in wildlife art, where fish, sea turtles, and other creatures are depicted with utmost creativity and touches of whimsy. If you’re looking for souvenirs above and beyond the usual, or unique jewelry, paintings, sculptures, and pottery—this is the place. | 11532 Andy Rosse La. | 239/395–2266 | www.jungledrumsgallery.com | Closed Sun.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
Everyone bikes around flat-as-a-pancake Sanibel and Captiva—on bikeways that edge the main highway in places, on the road through the wildlife refuge, and along side streets. Free maps are available at bicycle liveries.
Billy’s Bikes.
Rent by the hour or the day from this Sanibel outfitter, which also rents motorized scooters and leads Segway tours. They even have beach gear like chairs, umbrellas, and boogie boards. | 1470 Periwinkle Way | Sanibel | 239/472–5248 | www.billysrentals.com.
Yolo Watersports.
Bikes and water-sports recreation rentals of all kinds (sailboats, wave runners, paddle boards) are available at this Captiva operator. Gear is also for sale. | 11534 Andy Rosse La. | Captiva | 239/472–1296 | www.yolowatersports.com.
Boating
The Boat House.
The Boat House rents 20-foot deck boats and 21-foot center-console powerboats for $175 (plus fuel and tax) a half day or $250 for a full day. | Sanibel Marina, 634 N. Yachtsman Dr. | Sanibel | 239/472–2531 | www.sanibelmarina.com.
Beach Bums Boat Rental.
Beach Bums Boat Rental can set you up with a 19-foot center-console powerboat starting at $65 for an hour and $195 for four hours. | ‘Tween Waters Marina,15951 Captiva Dr. | Captiva | 239/472–6336 | www.beachbumsboatrentals.com.
Canoeing and Kayaking
Tarpon Bay Explorers.
One of the best ways to scout out the wildlife refuge is by paddle. Rent a canoe or kayak from the refuge’s official concessionaire and explore at your leisure. The kayak water trail is easy to follow, simply paddle your way along 17 markers and see a bevy of birds and other wildlife. Guided tours by kayak or pontoon boat are also offered and worthwhile for visitors unfamiliar with the ecosystem. Their on-site touch tank gives a hands-on learning experience about local sea life. | 900 Tarpon Bay Rd. | Sanibel | 239/472–8900 | www.tarponbayexplorers.com.
Fishing
Local anglers head out to catch mackerel, pompano, grouper, snook, snapper, tarpon, and shark.
Sanibel Marina.
To find a charter captain on Sanibel, visit their on-site Ship Store or give them a call. | 634 N. Yachtsman Dr. | Sanibel | 239/472–2723 | www.sanibelmarina.com.
‘Tween Waters Marina.
On Captiva, this is the place to look for guides. You can also rent kayaks, canoes, stand-up paddleboards, and other recreational watercrafts. | ‘Tween Waters Inn, 15951 Captiva Dr. | Captiva | 239/472–5161 | www.tween-waters.com/marina.php.
Golf
Dunes Golf & Tennis Club.
When your back nine are sanctioned as a wildlife preserve by the Audubon Cooperative Society—even if you play poorly—you’re rewarded with lusher than lush fairways and more wildlife than you can shake a stick at. Bring your camera if you golf here, as it’s not every day that bald eagles watch you play. Water hazards at every hole will have you losing more balls than usual, so bring plenty. Hole 10 is the toughest, which explains why most wish it were a par 5 instead of a par 4. Go for a long, straight tee shot and watch out for the water (and the gators). | 949 Sandcastle Rd. | Sanibel | 239/472–2535 | www.dunesgolfsanibel.com | $110 | 18 holes, 5583 yards, par 70.
Tennis
Dunes Golf & Tennis Club.
There are seven Har-Tru courts and a full-service pro shop. | 949 Sandcastle Rd. | Sanibel | 239/472–3522.
Fort Myers Beach (Estero Island)
18 miles southwest of Fort Myers.
Crammed with motels, hotels, and restaurants, Estero Island is one of Fort Myers’s more frenetic gulf playgrounds. Dolphins frequently frolic in Estero Bay, part of the Intracoastal Waterway, and marinas provide a starting point for boating adventures, including sunset cruises, sightseeing cruises, and deep-sea fishing. At the southern tip, a bridge leads to Lovers Key State Park.
Getting Here and Around
San Carlos Boulevard in Fort Myers leads to Fort Myers Beach’s high bridge, Times Square, and Estero Boulevard, the island’s main drag. Estero Island is 18 miles southwest of Fort Myers.
Beaches
Lovers Key State Park.
Once a little-known secret, this out-of-the-way park encompassing 1,616 acres on four barrier islands and several uninhabited islets is popular among beachgoers and birders. Bike, hike, walk, or paddle the park’s trails (rentals available); go shelling on its 2½ miles of white-sand beach; take a boat tour; or have a beach picnic under the trees. Trams run regularly from 9 to 4:30 to deliver you and your gear to South Beach. The ride is short but often dusty. North Beach is a five-minute walk from the concession area and parking lot. Watch for osprey, bald eagles, herons, ibis, pelicans, and roseate spoonbills, or sign up for a free excursion to learn fishing and nature photography. On the park’s bay side, across the road from the beach entrance, playgrounds and a picnic area cater to families, plus there are boat ramps, kayak rentals, and a bait shop. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming; walking. | 8700 Estero Blvd. | 239/463–4588 | www.floridastateparks.org/loverskey | $4–$8 per vehicle, $2 for pedestrians and bicyclists | Daily 8–sunset.
FAMILY | Lynn Hall Memorial Park.
At the 17-acre park in the commercial northern part of Estero Island, the wide, sandy shore slopes gradually into the usually tranquil and warm gulf waters, providing safe swimming for children. And since houses, restaurants, condominiums, and hotels (including the Best Western Beach Resort and Pink Shell Resort north of the parking lot) line most of the beach, you’re never far from civilization. There are picnic pavilions and barbecue grills, as well as playground equipment and a free fishing pier. The park is part of a pedestrian mall with a number of beach shops and restaurants steps away. The parking lot fills early on sunny days. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; sunsets; walking. | Estero Blvd. at San Carlos Blvd., to Bowditch Point Park | 239/463–1116 | www.leeparks.org | Parking $2 per hr | Daily 7 am–11 pm.
Manatees in Florida
So they won’t win any beauty contests. Florida’s West Indian manatees, also known as sea cows, are enormous aquatic mammals. The average adult male is about 10 feet long and weighs in at around 1,000 pounds, so it should come as no surprise that the manatee’s closest relative is the elephant. (What may surprise you, however, is the speculation that early sailor sightings of mermaids were actually manatees.) Yet despite their mass, these creatures somehow manage a sweet appeal. Their big lump of a body has wrinkly gray-brown skin, a tiny paddle-shape tail, two little flippers, and a stubby, pug-nose face that is at once whiskery and winsome.
In spite of their giant size, sea cows are entirely harmless. In fact, they’re extremely docile. Moving very slowly, they sometimes submerge and rest, coming up for a breath of fresh air every three to five minutes. These completely herbivorous animals spend the day grazing along the floor and surface of a body of water in search of aquatic greenery. Consummate munchers, the gentle giants can eat close to 15% of their body weight in plants each day.
Male manatees take about nine years to reach adulthood, whereas females take only five. Baby manatees stay with their mothers for as long as two years.
Although sea cows have no natural enemies and can live to be 60 years old, only about 5,000 are left in all of the United States. They are protected by the Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972, the federal Endangered Species Act of 1973, and the Florida Manatee Sanctuary Act of 1978. Florida waterways have manatee zones with restricted, no-wake speed limits, yet each year too many manatees are wounded and killed by watercraft and their propellers. Others die from eating fishing lines, plastic, or fishhooks; or from red tide or cold.
Manatees live in shallow, slow-moving waters, such as quiet rivers, peaceful saltwater bays, and calm coastal canals. Look for them in both coasts’ Intracoastal Waterway from spring to fall. In winter, the creatures search for warmer waters, heading to inland springs or even to the heated outflow of a power plant. Spotting them can be tricky. Since manatees usually travel together in a long line with their bodies mostly submerged, look for something resembling drifting coconuts. Also look for concentric circles in the water, a signal that manatees are about to surface.
Several organizations are intent on helping manatees. The Save the Manatee Club, which operates under the auspices of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, welcomes new members. If you choose to “adopt” a sea cow, you’ll receive a picture of “your” manatee, a little history about him or her, a handbook about manatees, and a certificate of adoption. A newsletter includes periodic updates about your adoptee.
Where to Eat
Doc Ford’s Rum Bar & Grille.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | For dependably well-prepared food with a water view, Doc Ford’s is the top choice in Fort Myers Beach. A spinoff of a Sanibel Island original, its name and theme come from a murder-mystery series by local celebrity author Randy Wayne White. Diners rave about the Yucatan shrimp—steamed in the shell with spicy key lime butter. Other choice picks include the beach bread, pulled-pork sandwich, banana leaf–wrapped snapper, shrimp and grits with tomatillo sauce, and penne with rock shrimp. Live bands play Wednesday through Sunday. | Average main: $20 | 708 Fisherman’s Wharf | 239/765–9660 | www.docfordsfortmyersbeach.com | Reservations not accepted.
Matanzas Inn.
$$ | SEAFOOD | Watch boats coming and going whether you sit inside or out at this rustic Old Florida–style restaurant right on the docks alongside the Intracoastal Waterway. When the weather cooperates, enjoy the view from the shaded outdoor tables. Inside, a rustic shack gives way to a more formal dining area in the back; there’s a bar upstairs with sweeping views, pizza, and live music nightly. You can’t miss with grouper or shrimp from the local fleets—delicately cornmeal-breaded, stuffed, or dipped in rum and coconut. Landlubbers can choose from ribs and steak. This is true Fort Myers Beach style, meaning service can be a bit gruff—and slow. | Average main: $18 | 416 Crescent St. | 239/463–3838 | www.matanzas.com | Reservations not accepted.
Parrot Key Caribbean Grill.
$$ | SEAFOOD | For something more contemporary than Fort Myers Beach’s traditional shrimp and seafood houses, head to San Carlos Island on the east side of the high bridge where the shrimp boats dock. Parrot Key sits marina-side near the shrimp docks and exudes merriment with its Floribbean cuisine and island music. Lunch menu goes from 11 to 4 and includes such dishes as the crab, avocado, and mango stack or Gorda Grouper fish-and-chips. For dinner, choose the Crabby New Yorker, a N.Y. strip topped with blue crab meat, au poivre, or the Creole shrimp and grits. There’s live entertainment most nights. | Average main: $20 | 2500 Main St. | 239/463–3257 | www.myparrotkey.com | Reservations not accepted.
The Plaka.
$ | GREEK | A casual longtimer and a favorite for a quick breakfast, lunch breaks, and sunset dinners, Plaka—Greek for “fun”—has typical Greek fare such as moussaka, pastitsio, gyros, and roast lamb, as well as burgers, sandwiches, fried seafood, and strip steak. It lies along a row of casual sidewalk restaurants in a pedestrian mall near the beach. There’s indoor dining, but grab a seat on the porch or under an umbrella on the patio for the best people-watching and sunset view. | Average main: $13 | 1001 Estero Blvd. | 239/463–4707 | Reservations not accepted.
Where to Stay
FAMILY | DiamondHead.
$$$$ | RESORT | This 12-story resort sits on the beach, and many of the suites, especially those on higher floors, have stunning views. Units are done in rich fall tones but the kitchenettes show a little wear and tear. Premium units have a full kitchen minus an oven. Each has also a living room with queen-size sleeper sofa, and a separate bedroom. The well-organized children’s programs include everything from crafts to scavenger hunts. An on-property spa adds a measure of luxury. Pros: on the beach; nice views; kitchen facilities. Cons: heavy foot and car traffic; tiny fitness center; not the best value on the beach. | Rooms from: $429 | 2000 Estero Blvd. | 239/765–7654, 888/765–5002 | www.diamondheadfl.com | 121 suites | No meals.
Harbour House.
$$ | RENTAL | This condo-hotel adds a degree of beach luxury with brightly painted and sea-motif studios and one- and two-bedroom condos, all privately owned. Given its amenities, it’s a real deal, mostly because there’s a bit of a walk to the beach. Only three stories high, it does have some bay views, but none of the gulf. The owners also have a restaurant within easy walking distance and offer the use of facilities at sister property, nearby Matanzas Inn. Pros: close to lots of restaurants; roomy units; all have private balconies or lanais; free covered parking. Cons: a walk to the beach; not great views from most rooms. | Rooms from: $239 | 450 Old San Carlos Blvd. | 239/463–0700, 866/998–9250 | www.harbourhouseattheinn.com | 6 studios, 15 1-bedroom condos, 13 2-bedroom condos | No meals.
Lighthouse Resort Inn & Suites.
$ | HOTEL | These pastel-painted buildings hold fairly basic but spacious rooms, standing tall and welcoming at the foot of the Fort Myers bridge, an ideal location for exploring. As far as the rooms, splurge a little for a one- or two-bedroom suite; you’ll relish the extra space and kitchen without breaking your budget. There are two pools (one with a waterfall) and a popular tiki bar that’s open until 2 am, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Because of its affordability, this hotel is popular with the college crowd at spring break; at other times, it draws mostly families and couples. Old salts and regulars frequent the tiki bar for downright cheap lunch deals. Pros: location; on-site laundry; views of the area from balconies. Cons: can be noisy; may have to park across the street if under-building parking is full. | Rooms from: $175 | 1051 5th Ave. | 239/463–9392 | www.lighthouseislandresort.com | 79 units | No meals.
Lovers Key Resort.
$$ | RENTAL | Views can be stupendous from upper floors in this 14-story tower just north of Lovers Key State Park. The gulf seems to stretch forever, and dolphins and manatees in the estuary put on quite a show. Most of the plantation-style condominiums have spa bathtubs with a window view. All of the one- and two-bedroom units have full kitchens and handsome decor that continues the lobby theme of bamboo, palms, and pineapples. The lagoon-style waterfall pool sits bay-side. Extended-stay rates offer discounts. Pros: excellent views; off the beaten path; spacious accommodations. Cons: not a true beach; far from shopping and restaurants; limited amenities. | Rooms from: $280 | 8771 Estero Blvd. | 239/765–1040, 877/798–4879 | www.loverskey.com | 100 condominiums | No meals.
FAMILY | Outrigger Beach Resort.
$ | RESORT | On a wide gulf beach, this casual resort has rooms and efficiencies with configurations to suit different guests’ needs. The standard rooms offer your basic motel setup; efficiencies are roomier and work well for families. All open up to a shared porch or balcony. You’ll also find a broad tiki deck, tiki cabanas, sailboats, and a beachfront pool with a popular bar featuring live entertainment. Pros: beautiful beach; water-sports rentals; family-friendly vibe. Cons: can be noisy; crowded pool area; old-school feel. | Rooms from: $199 | 6200 Estero Blvd. | 239/463–3131, 800/657–5659 | www.outriggerfmb.com | 76 rooms, 68 efficiencies | No meals.
Pierview Hotel & Suites.
$$$ | HOTEL | In the thick of things at Fort Myers Beach’s so-called Times Square, this three-story property has pretty gingerbread trim outside and cheery florals inside. All the rooms have a shared porch or balcony. Despite recent room renovations, they still look mostly plain and a little worn. Pros: near all the action; right on the beach; affordable rates. Cons: old building; limited amenities. | Rooms from: $188 | 1160 Estero Blvd. | 239/463–6158, 877/744–4592 | www.pierviewhotelandsuites.com | 61 rooms, 9 suites | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
Fort Myers Beach has no designated trails, so most cyclists ride along the road.
Fun Rentals.
Bike rentals are available from anywhere between two hours and a week. Not your speed? Rent a Harley or a scooter instead. | 1901 Estero Blvd. | 239/463–8844 | www.funrentals.org.
Lover’s Key Adventures and Events.
This company rents one-speed bikes, kayaks, canoes, paddleboards, and concessions in Lovers Key State Park. Fees for adult bikes are $20 for a half day, $25 for a full day. | 8700 Estero Blvd. | 239/765–7788 | www.loverskeyadventures.com.
Canoeing
Lover’s Key Adventures and Events.
Lovers Key State Park offers kayak, canoe, and paddleboard rentals and guided kayaking tours of its bird-filled estuary. Guided tours cost $55 (call for dates and times). Rentals begin at $38 for a half day. | 8700 Estero Blvd. | 239/765–7788 | www.loverskeyadventures.com.
Fishing
Getaway Deep Sea Fishing.
Arrange anything from half-day party-boat charters to full-day excursions, fishing equipment included. Rates start at $65 for a half-day trip. | 18400 San Carlos Blvd. | 800/641–3088, 239/466–3600 | www.getawaymarina.com.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | SoulMate Charters.
Local “REEL Talk” radio host Captain Rob Modys takes care of everything from the fishing license to the rods and bait on the half-, three-quarter-, and full-day fishing charters he offers around the scenic back bays and tiny islands near Fort Myers Beach. He’s a local guide who knows every “honey hole” and will no doubt find fish for you to catch. As a father himself (and now grandfather), he’s great with kids and has the patience to teach budding anglers. He is based out of Fish Tale Marina. | 7225 Estero Blvd. | 239/851–1242 | www.soulmatecharters.com.