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Estero/Bonita Springs | Naples | Marco Island
As you head south from Fort Myers on U.S. 41, you soon come to Estero and Bonita Springs, followed by the Naples and Marco Island areas, which are sandwiched between Big Cypress Swamp and the Gulf of Mexico. East of Naples the land is largely undeveloped and mostly wetlands, all the way to Fort Lauderdale. Naples itself is a major vacation destination that has sprouted pricey high-rise condominiums and golfing developments, plus a spate of restaurants and shops to match. A similar but not as thorough evolution has occurred on Marco Island, the largest of the Ten Thousand Islands.
Estero/Bonita Springs
10 miles south of Fort Myers via U.S. 41.
Towns below Fort Myers have started to flow seamlessly into one another since the opening of Florida Gulf Coast University in San Carlos Park and as a result of the growth of Estero and Bonita Springs, which were agricultural communities until the 1990s. In recent years the area has become a shopping mecca of mega–outdoor malls mixing big-box stores, smaller chains, and restaurants. Bonita Beach, the closest beach to Interstate 75, has evolved from a fishing community into a strip of upscale homes and beach clubs built to provide access for residents of inland golf developments.
Getting Here and Around
U.S. 41 (Tamiami Trail) runs right through the heart of these two adjacent communities. You can also reach them by exits 123 and 116 off Interstate 75.
Exploring
FAMILY | Everglades Wonder Gardens.
Opened in 1936 by two retired moonshiners from Detroit, the Everglades Wonder Gardens was one of the first roadside attractions in the state and remained little changed until 2013, when the family decided to close its doors—and thus a rich chapter of Florida tourism history—forever. In stepped Florida landscape photographer John Brady, who negotiated a lease with the founding family and transformed the old-style cramped zoological gardens (that once featured Florida panthers, black bears, crocodiles, alligators, and tame Florida deer) into a botanical garden by conserving the flora and fauna following contemporary standards. Now in focus are diverse gardens that include old-growth trees like kapok, banyan, candle nut, egg fruit, plumeria, jaboticaba, mahogany, cashew, avocado, and mango, as well as integrated animal exhibits with tortoises, turtles, smaller alligators, flamingos, and a butterfly garden. The original buildings have been preserved and made into a modern gallery that showcases Brady’s photography. | 27180 Old 41 Rd. | 239/992–2591 | www.evergladeswondergardens.com | $12.95 | Daily 9–5.
Koreshan State Historic Site.
Tour one of Florida’s quirkier chapters from the past. Named for a religious cult that was active at the turn of the 20th century, Koreshan preserves a dozen structures where the group practiced arts, worshipped a male-female divinity, and created its own branch of science called cosmogony, which claimed the universe existed within a giant hollow sphere. The cult floundered when leader Cyrus Reed Teed died in 1908, and in 1961 the four remaining members deeded the property to the state. Rangers and volunteers lead tours and demonstrations, and the grounds are lovely for picnicking and camping. Canoeists paddle the Estero River, fringed by a forest of exotic vegetation the Koreshans planted. | 3800 Corkscrew Rd., at U.S. 41 (Tamiami Trail) | Estero | 239/992–0311 | www.floridastateparks.org/park/Koreshan | $5 per vehicle with up to 8 passengers; $4 for single motorist; $2 per bicyclist, pedestrian, or extra passenger | Daily 8–sunset.
Beaches
Barefoot Beach Preserve.
This one isn’t exactly easy to find since it’s accessible only by a quiet neighborhood road around the corner from buzzing Bonita Beach Park, but it’s well worth the effort if you appreciate natural coastal habitats with fun interpretive programs. Shells here are bountiful, as are gopher tortoises that may park in shade of your car. Stop by the nature center to join a ranger-led walk through the trails and gardens, or take up a paddle and go kayaking. There’s no towel-jockeying here along the wide-open space (the preserve as a whole is 342 acres), and refreshments and beach rentals provide ample comfort while you unwind in the pristine sands. Amenities: parking (fee); food and drink; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: solitude; walking. | 5901 Bonita Beach Rd., at Barefoot Beach Rd. | 239/591–8596 | www.collierparks.com | Parking $8.
Bonita Beach Park.
The joint is always jumping on this rowdy stretch of coast, the easiest by far to reach from the inland areas south of Fort Myers. Local favorite hangout Doc’s Beach House, open from breakfast until the wee hours of the night, keeps bellies full and libations flowing. Other food and sports vendors camp out here, too, making it nearly impossible to resist an ice cream or a ride on a Jet Ski. Shaded pavilions between the parking lot and dunes are a great way to cool off from the sweltering heat—just don’t sit too close to the picnickers barbecuing. Amenities: showers; toilets; parking (fee); food and drink; water sports. Best for: partiers; windsurfing. | 27954 Hickory Blvd., at Bonita Beach Rd. | 239/949–4615 | www.leeparks.org | Parking $2 per hr.
Where to Eat
Fodor’s Choice | Angelina’s Ristorante.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Here it’s all about the experience—one of the most indulgent, pampered meals you’ll ever eat. Formally trained waitstaff attend to your every need in this temple of traditional Italian cuisine. A dramatic wine tower hovers over the main room; the plush private booths surrounding it are the best tables (call early to snag one). The taste circus begins with an amuse bouche. Pick between antipasti, crispy flatbreads, and wholesome soups before moving on to homemade pastas and grilled meats. Absolutely try the butternut squash ravioli, an inventive version with citrus-tomato butter and truffled almonds. The evening ends with a complimentary nightcap. There is also a great prix-fixe menu. TIP This is an upscale restaurant. Don’t show up in flip-flops, jeans, or shorts; the staff may be too polite to turn you away, but you will be uncomfortable. | Average main: $25 | 24041 U.S. 41 | 239/390–3187 | www.angelinasofbonitasprings.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Blue Water Bistro.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | For the convenience of shoppers at Coconut Point, several excellent restaurants cluster in the midst of the shopping center. Most are hooked to a chain. This one, although part of a Naples-Bonita Springs dining dynasty, has a personality all its own with a suave indoor-outdoor bar scene and seafood that’s anything but timid. Its specialty is grilled fish from around the globe that you can mix and match with a choice of sauces and sides. For instance, try swordfish with a sweet-and-sour mango sauce and coconut sticky rice. Other specialties include lobster bomb sushi, potato-chip-encrusted tilapia, and the crispy crunchy crab-stuffed grouper. | Average main: $22 | Coconut Point Mall, 23151 Village Shops Way, Suite 109 | Estero | 239/949–2583 | www.bluewaterbistro.net | No lunch.
FAMILY | Doc’s Beach House.
$ | AMERICAN | Right next door to the public access point for Barefoot Beach, Doc’s has fed hungry beachgoers for decades. Come barefoot and grab a quick libation or meal downstairs, outside on the beach, or in the courtyard. When the thermometer reaches “searing,” take refuge on the air-conditioned second floor, with its great view of beach action. Basic fare on the breakfast and all-day menu includes a popular Angus burger, Chicago-style pizza, and seafood plates. The conch chowder is some of the best in these parts, with just the right amount of fire. | Average main: $10 | 27908 Hickory Blvd. | 239/992–6444 | www.docsbeachhouse.com | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards.
Old 41 Restaurant.
$ | AMERICAN | Locals vote this “best breakfast,” “best lunch,” and “best Philly cheesesteak,” and mostly locals populate its cheery dining room with its Philadelphia allegiance. For breakfast, don’t miss the incredible Texas French toast with homemade caramel and pecans, Carbon’s malted Belgian waffles, or eggs and homemade hash with Boar’s Head meat. Besides cheesesteak, lunch specialties include Boar’s Head hoagies, burgers, in-house-roasted beef or turkey sandwiches, and other comfort food—all served until 3 pm. TIP Though you can’t make a reservation here, you can call ahead (weekends) to get your name on the waiting list. | Average main: $7 | 25091 Bernwood Dr. | 239/948–4123 | www.old41.com | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.
Where to Stay
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Hyatt Regency Coconut Point Resort & Spa.
$$$$ | RESORT | This secluded luxury resort, with its marble-and-mahogany lobby and championship golf course, makes a lovely sanctuary for families who want a refined atmosphere, plus fun features like a 140-foot waterslide, a rock climbing wall, and a s’mores fire pit. You have a choice of several pools—the lagoon, lap, and waterfall on the property. For something more natural, catch a ferry to the hotel’s private island beach that’s great for shelling, or rent a kayak and paddle around Estero Bay. Handsomely appointed rooms, recently renovated, overlook the water or the golf course. The spa is known for a rare water-shiatsu pool; also unique is the interpretive center, an area that has displays showcasing natural and prehistoric history. The hotel is equidistant to both downtown Naples and Fort Myers (read: a slight hike), but, for what you pay, the amenities can’t be beat. Pros: pampering spa; great ceviche bar; championship golf; water activities galore. Cons: need water shuttle to reach the beach; expensive restaurants. | Rooms from: $649 | 5001 Coconut Rd. | 239/444–1234, 800/554–9288 | www.coconutpoint.hyatt.com | 454 rooms and suites | No meals.
Trianon Bonita Bay.
$$ | HOTEL | Convenient to Bonita Springs’s best shopping and dining, this branch of a refined downtown Naples favorite has a peaceful, sophisticated feel and a poolside–lakeside alfresco bar and grill. Rooms are generously sized, and the lobby has a vaulted, coved ceiling and marble columns. Cocktails and breakfast are served in the elegant lounge, where a fireplace dominates. Pros: spacious rooms; intimate atmosphere. Cons: sometimes less-than-friendly staff; far from beach; slightly stuffy. | Rooms from: $229 | 3401 Bay Commons Dr. | 239/948–4400, 800/859–3939 | www.trianon.com | 100 rooms.
Shopping
FAMILY | Coconut Point.
A 500-acre planned community is host to one of the area’s largest shopping complexes with more than 140 stores including upscale boutiques, big-box retailers, and plenty of big-name restaurants. There’s a boardwalk for a breather between impulse purchases, and a castle-themed kids’ play area. | 23106 Fashion Dr. | Estero | 239/992–9966 | www.shopcoconutpoint.com.
Miromar Outlets.
The complex includes Adidas, Coach, Michael Kors, Nike, Nautica, and more than 140 other stores and eateries, plus a free Playland for kids. | 10801 Corkscrew Rd., at I–75 Exit 123, near Germain Arena | Estero | 239/948–3766 | www.miromaroutlets.com.
Sports and the Outdoors
Birding
The last leg of the Great Florida Birding Trail has more than 20 stops in the Lower Gulf Coast. Go to www.floridabirdingtrail.com for a complete list.
Biking
Bonita Bike & Baby.
Rent bicycles by the day or by the week at Bonita Bike & Baby. You call them, then they deliver the bikes to you in Bonita Springs or the immediate vicinity. As the name suggests, you can also rent baby furniture here. | 239/947–6377 | www.bonitabikeandbaby.com.
Boating
Bonita Boat Rentals.
Bonita Boat Rentals rents pontoon boats for a minimum of two hours or by the half and full day. | 26395 Hickory Blvd. | 239/992–2137 | www.bonitaboatrentals.com.
Canoeing
The meandering Estero River is pleasant for canoeing as it passes through Koreshan State Historic Site to the bay.
Estero River Outfitters.
Since 1977, this is the place to rent canoes, kayaks, paddleboards, and equipment. They’re also a full-service tackle shop. | 20991 Tamiami Trail S | Estero | 239/992–4050 | www.esteroriveroutfitters.com.
Dog Racing
Naples-Fort Myers Greyhound Racing & Poker.
Greyhounds race year-round at the Naples-Fort Myers greyhound track. You can also bet on daily live poker games. | 10601 Bonita Beach Rd. | 239/992–2411 | www.naplesfortmyersdogs.com.
Ice Hockey
Florida Everblades.
The region’s minor-league hockey team, the Florida Everblades, battles opponents from October to March or April. | Germain Arena, 11000 Everblades Pkwy. | Estero | 239/948–7825 | www.floridaeverblades.com.
Naples
21 miles south of Bonita Springs, on U.S. 41.
Poised between the Gulf of Mexico and the Everglades, Naples belies its wild setting and Indian past with the trappings of wealth—neo-Mediterranean-style mansions, neatly manicured golfing developments, revitalized downtown streets lined with galleries and one-of-a-kind shops, and a reputation for lively and eclectic dining. Visitors come for its luxury hotels—including two Ritz-Carltons—its fabulous white-sand beaches, fishing, shopping, theater and arts, and a lofty reputation for golf. Yet with all the highfalutin living, Naples still appeals to families, especially with its water park and the Golisano Children’s Museum of Naples that opened in 2012.
Old Naples, the historic downtown section, has two main commercial areas, 5th Avenue South and 3rd Street South, and there’s also a small cluster of restaurants right by City Dock on Naples Bay. Farther north on U.S. 41 (the Tamiami Trail, or 9th Street here), hotels, shopping centers, and developments have fast been filling in the area around and south of Vanderbilt Beach, including the dining and shopping meccas Waterside Shops, and the Village on Venetian Bay.
Getting Here and Around
The Naples Municipal Airport is a small facility east of downtown principally serving private planes, commuter flights, and charters. A taxi for up to three passengers is about $60–$90 from Southwest Florida International Airport (RSW) in Fort Myers to Naples; each additional person is charged $10. You don’t need to reserve in advance; simply go to the ground-transportation booth. If you prefer to book a car or limo pickup in advance, three major companies are Aaron Airport Transportation, Naples Taxi & Limo Services, and Naples Airport Shuttle. In Naples and Marco Island, Collier Area Transit runs regular routes.
Downtown Naples is 15 miles south of Bonita Springs, on U.S. 41. If you’re driving here from Florida’s east coast, consider Alligator Alley, a toll section of Interstate 75 that’s a straight shot from Fort Lauderdale to Naples. In Naples, east–west county highways exiting off Interstate 75 include, from north to south, Immokalee Road (Route 846), Pine Ridge Road (Route 896), and Collier Boulevard (Route 951), which actually goes north–south and takes you also to Marco Island.
Contacts
Aaron Airport Transportation. | 239/768–1898 | www.aarontaxi.com.
Collier Area Transit (CAT). | 239/252–7777 | www.colliergov.net/CAT.
Naples Airport Shuttle. | 239/430–4747, 888/569–2227 | www.naplesairportshuttle.com.
Naples Taxi & Limo Services. | 239/435-0000, 800/472–1371 | www.naplestaxiflorida.com.
Tours
If you want someone to be your guide as you go about town, Naples Trolley Tours offers eight narrated tours daily, covering more than 100 points of interest in town. The tour ($27) lasts about two hours, but you can get off and on at no extra cost.
Contacts
Naples Trolley Tours. | 1010 6th Ave. S | 239/262–7300, 800/592–0848 | www.naplestrolleytours.com | Daily 8:30–5:30.
Visitor Information
Contacts
Naples, Marco Island, Everglades Convention and Visitors Bureau. | 800/688–3600, 239/225–1013 | www.paradisecoast.com.
Exploring
Top Attractions
Fodor’s Choice | The Baker Museum.
This cool, contemporary museum at Artis–Naples displays provocative, innovative pieces, including renowned miniatures, antique walking sticks, modern and contemporary American and Mexican masters, and traveling exhibits. Dazzling installations by glass artist Dale Chihuly include a fiery cascade of a chandelier and an illuminated ceiling layered with many-hued glass bubbles, glass corkscrews, and other shapes that suggest the sea; alone, this warrants a visit, but with three floors and 15 galleries, your cultural curiosity is sure to pique, perhaps in the glass-domed conservatory. Reward your visual arts adventure with lunch at the on-site Cafe Intermezzo. | 5833 Pelican Bay Blvd. | 239/597–1900, 800/597–1900 | www.artisnaples.org | $10 | Tues.–Sat. 10–4, Sun. noon–4 | Closed Mon.
FAMILY | Collier County Museum.
To get a feel for local history, stroll the nicely presented indoor vignettes and traveling exhibits and outdoor parklike displays at this museum. A Seminole chickee village, native plant garden, swamp buggy, reconstructed 19th-century fort, steam logging locomotive, and more capture important Naples-area developments from prehistoric times to the World War II era. | 3331 Tamiami Trail E | 239/252–8476 | www.colliermuseums.com | Free | Mon.–Sat. 9–4.
FAMILY | Conservancy of Southwest Florida Nature Center.
If you’re looking to connect with nature, this is the place, regardless of age. Take a 45-minute electric boat tour (ages 2-plus) along the Gordon River, rent a kayak, or go on a guided nature walk. The Dalton Discovery Center features interactive exhibits on six Florida ecosystems including a touch tank where you can learn about many of the same animals you find on the local beaches, and meet the area’s only loggerhead sea turtle living in a spectacular aquarium. Preschoolers can have hands-on fun at the new Little Explorer Play Zone. The onsite wildlife hospital’s viewing area gives you a peek at staff working on any number of animals. Check out Cinema Sunday and other events in their Nature Center. TIP The electric boat tours are free, and you don’t have to pay the admission fee for the center to ride. | 1495 Smith Preserve Way | 239/262–0304 | www.conservancy.org | $12.95 | Mon.–Sat. 9:30–4:30.
Fodor’s Choice | Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary.
To get a feel for what this part of Florida was like before civil engineers began draining the swamps, drive 17 miles east of North Naples to these 13,000 acres of pine flatwood and cypress, grass-and-sedge “wet prairie,” saw-grass marshland, and lakes and sloughs filled with water lettuce. Managed by the National Audubon Society, the sanctuary protects North America’s largest remaining stand of ancient bald cypress, 600-year-old trees as tall as 130 feet, as well as endangered birds, such as wood storks, which often nest here. This is a favorite destination for serious birders and is the gateway to the Great Florida Birding and Wildlife Trail. If you spend a couple of hours to take the 2¼-mile self-guided tour along the boardwalk, you’ll spot ferns, orchids, and air plants, as well as wading birds and possibly alligators and river otters. A nature center educates you about this precious, unusual habitat with a dramatic re-creation of the preserve and its creatures in the Swamp Theater. | 375 Sanctuary Rd. W, 17 miles east of I–75 on Rte. 846 | 239/348–9151 | www.corkscrew.audubon.org | $12 | Daily 7–5:30 | Entirely wheelchair accessible.
FAMILY | Golisano Children’s Museum of Naples.
This bright, cheery 30,000-square-foot ode to playful learning burst onto Naples’s cultural scene in 2012 after a decade of much-anticipated planning, and its 12 state-of-the-art permanent galleries do not disappoint. Kids of many ages and abilities (exhibits were designed to be accessible for children with special needs, too) will love the gigantic Banyan Tree, a focal point at 45 feet tall and a climbing obstacle of sorts; the Farm & Market, a cooperative playground where roles are assigned (a harvester or cashier, for example) to subtly enforce team building and math skills; and the Green Construction zone, where hard hats and ecofriendly building materials will inspire future architects. TIP It’s in the same park as Sun-n-Fun Lagoon, and it’s possible to do both in one day. | North Collier Regional Park, 15080 Livingston Rd. | 239/514–0084 | www.cmon.org | $10 | Mon., Tues., and Thurs.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. 11–4 | Closed Wed.
Naples Botanical Garden.
An expansion and renovation of the botanical gardens that finished in 2010 elevated this attraction to one of Naples’s most culturally and botanically exciting. Its “gardens with latitude” flourish with plants and architectural and decorative elements from Florida and other subtropical locales including Asia, Brazil, and the Caribbean. Highlights of the 170 acres include a Children’s Garden with a butterfly house, tree house, waterfall, cave, Florida Cracker house, and hidden garden; an infinity water lily pool; an aromatic Enabling Garden with a how-to theme; and a dramatic waterfall feature. A new visitor center, café, and restaurant opened in the fall of 2014. At the visitor center, they’ve added three gardens including an orchid garden with more than 1,000 species and cultivars. | 4820 Bayshore Dr. | 239/643–7275 | www.naplesgarden.org | $14.95 | Fri.–Wed. 9–5, Tues. 8–5 | Complimentary wheelchairs; fee for scooters.
FAMILY | Naples Zoo at Caribbean Gardens.
The lush 44-acre zoo got its start as a botanical garden in 1919 and has since drawn visitors curious to see lions, tigers, bears, leopards, gazelles—and a wildly popular giraffe herd added in 2011. For an extra fee you can feed the gentle, eyelash-batting giants or, in the winter season only, ride aboard dromedary camels. Other exhibits include the cult-favorite honey badgers (only four U.S. zoos have them), whose innocuous-sounding name belies their ferocious ways; a “Snakes Live” show; a pair of endangered Madagascar fossas; a giant ant eater in the South American exhibit; and the “Primate Expedition Cruise” that sails past islands populated with monkeys and lemurs. Youngsters can amuse themselves in three play zones, and there are daily meet-the-keeper times, alligator feedings, and live animal shows. New exhibits added in 2015 include an endangered Florida panther and a 19-foot reticulated python. TIP Purchase tickets online for a $3 discount per ticket. | 1590 Goodlette-Frank Rd. | 239/262–5409 | www.napleszoo.org | $19.95; giraffe feeding and camel rides (seasonal) $5 each | Daily 9–5; gates close at 4.
FAMILY | Rookery Bay Environmental Learning Center.
In the midst of 110,000-acre Rookery Bay National Marine Estuary, the center dramatically interprets the Everglades environment and local history with interactive models, aquariums, an art gallery, a film, tours, and “coastal connections” programs (45 minutes, at 11 and 2 daily). It’s on the edge of the estuary, about five minutes east of Marco’s north bridge on Collier Boulevard. Take a walk along Observation Bridge, a 440-foot pedestrian bridge that spans the reserve’s creek from the center’s second floor, and connects with 1.5 miles of nature trails and leads to a creekside viewing platform. Guided and self-guided walks available. Kayak and boat tours are also available through advance registration. Exhibits include an interactive research boat, a display on the importance of the Gulf of Mexico to coastal communities, and another on global climate change. Geocaches can be found on the trail and parking area. TIP Kids go free on Friday in June and July. Also, visit the website for a printable coupon for admission. | 300 Tower Rd. | 239/530–5940 | www.rookerybay.org | $5 | May–Oct., weekdays 9–4; Nov.–Apr., Mon.–Sat. 9–4.
Worth Noting
Palm Cottage.
Houses in 19th-century South Florida were often built of a concrete-like material made of sand and seashells called tabby mortar. For a fine example of such construction, stop by Palm Cottage, built in 1895 and one of the Lower Gulf Coast’s few surviving tabby homes. The historically accurate interior contains simple furnishings typical of the period. Next door to the cottage, Norris Gardens was designed to reflect turn-of-the-last-century garden trends. Docent tours of the home are included with admission; for an extra $6, join the weekly two-hour walking tour of the garden and historic district on Wednesday mornings (reservations required). | 137 12th Ave. S | 239/261–8164, 800/979–3370 historic district reservations | www.napleshistoricalsociety.org | $10 | Tues.–Sat. 1–4.
FAMILY | Sun-N-Fun Lagoon.
This is a splashy water park across from the children’s museum along the eastern edge of town. Interactive water features throughout such as dumping buckets and spray guns will delight younger kids, and there’s a Tadpole Pool geared to those age six and under. The whole family will go for the diving pool, a Sunny’s Lazy River, and five waterslides. The park is generally closed from October to President’s Day weekend (except during some local school breaks). | North Collier Regional Park, 15000 Livingston Rd. | 239/252–4021 | www.napleswaterpark.com | $12 | Memorial Day–late Aug., daily 10–5; weekends 10–5 in fall and spring (check website for specific schedules).
Beaches
FAMILY | City of Naples Beach.
There’s something here for everyone just west of the Third Street South shopping area, but what gets the most attention by far is the historic pier that extends deep into the gulf and has the best free dolphin-viewing seats around. Sunsets are a nightly ritual, and dodging anglers’ poles is par for the course. The concession stand sells food for humans as well as for fishy friends, and on the sand below, teenagers hold court at the volleyball nets and families picnic on blankets, while a handful of people can always be seen swooping up cockles, fighting conchs, and coquinas. For a charming landscape away from the commotion, head south on Gulf Shore Boulevard and take your pick of the public access points. They may not have the amenities of the pier—or amenities, period—but the solitude can’t be beat. Amenities: showers; toilets; parking (fee); food and drink. Best for: sunsets; swimming. | 12th Ave. S at Gulf Shore Blvd. | 239/213–3062 | Parking 25¢ per 10 min | Daily 7–sunset.
Clam Pass Beach Park.
A quiet day at the beach gets an adventurous start when you board a tram and careen down a ¾-mile boardwalk through shaded mangroves and a network of canals. At the end is a pretty, secluded patch of sand that still has notable activities because of the family-vacation-magnet Naples Grande Beach Resort just a few steps from the public parking lot. The surf is calm, perfect for swimming, and aside from the usual lying out, shelling, and sand-castle building, you can spring for a kayak and meander around the marsh for a different kind of water experience. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets; water sports; parking (fee). Best for: solitude; swimming. | 465 Seagate Dr. | 239/252–4000 | www.collierparks.com | Parking $8 | Daily 8–sunset.
Fodor’s Choice | Delnor-Wiggins Pass State Park.
This wide, virtually untouched expanse—about 166 acres—of open beach makes visitors feel transported from the bustling high-rises and resorts just a few blocks south. A full roster of eco-inclined features, like a designated fishing zone, hard-bottom reef (one of the few in the region and close enough to swim up to), boat dock, and observation tower hooks anglers, nature lovers, and water-sports enthusiasts drawn to the peaceful, laid-back vibe. Moms and dads love the educational displays on the local environment and the ranger-led sea turtle and birding programs, not to mention the picnic tables, grills, and plenty of shade offshore. A new concession stand was added in 2013, making food, drinks, and beach gear easily accessible to those less inclined to self-catering. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: solitude; snorkeling; walking. | 11135 Gulf Shore Dr. N | 239/597–6196 | www.floridastateparks.org/park/Delnor-Wiggins | $6 per vehicle with up to 8 people, $4 for single drivers, $2 for pedestrians and bicyclists | Daily 8–sunset.
FAMILY | Lowdermilk Park.
Do you prefer your beach loud and active with a big dose of good old-fashioned fun? Kids running around in the surf, volleyballers hitting the sand, and tykes getting up close and personal with the park’s most colorful residents, the red-throated Muscovy ducks, are all part of the Lowdermilk experience. Shallow waters and little-to-no wave action beg for a dip from even the most hesitant swimmer, and thatched umbrellas dotting the shoreline complete the happy tiki vibe and are yours for the taking—assuming you can snag one (they are strictly first come, first served). Even more, a food stand, two playgrounds, and some casual eateries down the strand at the Naples Beach Hotel make digging your feet into the sand a no-brainer. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. | 1301 Gulf Shore Blvd. N | 239/213–3029 | www.naplesgov.com | Parking 25¢ per 10 min | Daily 8–sunset.
Vanderbilt Beach.
If a day at the shore just doesn’t seem quite complete without a piña colada and serious people-watching, this place is for you. The white powdery sand often looks like a kaleidoscope, with multihued towels and umbrellas dotting the landscape in front of the nearly 3 miles of tony north Naples condos and luxe resorts, including the Ritz-Carlton and LaPlaya. If you walk far enough—which many people do—you come across eye candy of a different kind: the architecturally stunning megamansions of Bay Colony perched up on the dunes. A covered public parking garage gives easy access, and the beach really comes alive at sunset with onlookers. Amenities: water sports; food and drink; parking (fee); toilets; showers. Best for: partiers; sunsets; walking. TIP Stroll up to Gumbo Limbo at the Ritz for the best Floribbean, yet surprisingly not wallet-busting, lunches and panoramic views from a shaded deck. | 100 Vanderbilt Beach Rd. | 239/252–4000 | www.collierparks.com | Parking $8 | Daily 8–sunset.
Where to Eat
Baleen.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | The mood cast in this well-appointed dining room and the romantic gulf-view patio that spills onto the sand feels like the perfect Florida restaurant experience. There’s only one small problem: lighting is so low at dinner that you can’t read the menu, even with its built-in flashlight. Too bad, because that means you also miss the effect of the beautifully presented dishes: Asian pear–and-arugula salad, black grouper with tamarind glaze, grilled scallops paired with polenta and serrano chilies, Grand Marnier crème brûlée, and the like. (Thankfully, there’s a great prix-fixe option.) At breakfast, the house-made corned beef hash is divine. For lunch, the lobster Cobb salad is a popular choice. | Average main: $37 | La Playa Beach & Golf Resort, 9891 Gulf Shore Dr. | 239/598–5707, 800/237–6883 | www.laplayaresort.com | Reservations essential.
Barbatella.
$$ | ITALIAN | This trattoria with an edge was the most buzzed-about opening in 2012; it’s still just as popular. The restaurant has three dining spaces to suit any whim: the wine bar, with sleek eclectic decor, has a communal table, green ceiling medallions, crystal chandeliers wrapped in birdcages, and a wine dispenser that allows guests to sip their way through 32 bottles (Italian, of course) by the 1-, 3-, or 6-ounce glass. The brick room, with 150-year-old recycled floors, is more casual and open to the kitchen; and the central patio is shaded and relaxed. The menu, straight-up Italian and expertly done, stars refined versions of classics, including bruschetta, fried calamari, lasagna, and wood-fired pizza. Don’t miss the house’s sweetest treat: a gelateria that’s open to passersby on 3rd Street South, a partnership with artisan-chocolate king Norman Love. | Average main: $20 | 1290 3rd St. S | 239/263–1955 | www.barbatellanaples.com.
The Bay House.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Nestled in a hidden expanse of twisted mangrove trees and flowing canals is one of the area’s best restaurants for casual fine dining—and beautifully natural scenery. Restored wooden rowboats and modern chandeliers hang from the ceiling of the main dining room, which is packed almost every night in season. The food is a serious celebration of the sea with Southern accents, like their signature coastal pan roast with fresh gulf fish and shellfish with a red wine butter sauce. Adjacent Tierney’s Tavern & Claw Bar shares the same kitchen but focuses on chilled shellfish and other Southern delights with nightly live music and a more casual vibe. TIP Saturday lunches are surprisingly quiet and a perfect time to snag one of the coveted tables closest to the windows. | Average main: $32 | 799 Walkerbilt Rd. | 239/591–3837 | www.bayhousenaples.com | Reservations essential | No lunch May–Nov.
Bha! Bha! Persian Bistro.
$$$ | MIDDLE EASTERN | Long considered one of Naples’s best ethnic restaurants, loyal fans of Bha! Bha! have flocked to a tiny north Naples strip mall year in and year out to indulge in the restaurant’s chic Persian atmosphere and cuisine. On the eve of its 15th birthday came a well-deserved present: a brand-new location on bustling Fifth Avenue South. But the move didn’t spoil the cooking or the following. All of the old favorites still garner loyal reviews, including plum lamb with tomato-pomegranate sauce, mango-garlic shrimp (which was featured in Bon Appétit), and spicy beef in saffron sauce with cucumber yogurt—all made completely from scratch on premises. | Average main: $25 | 865 5th Ave. S | 239/594–5557 | www.bhabhapersianbistro.com | Reservations essential.
Chops City Grill.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | Count on high-quality cuisine that fuses, as its name suggests, chopstick cuisine and steak-house mainstays. Sophisticated yet resort-wear casual, it draws everyone from young businesspeople to local retirees. Sushi and Pacific Rim inspirations such as shrimp spring rolls rub elbows with beef carpaccio and watermelon salad with goat cheese and pecans. Grilled seafood and fine cuts of meat like dry-aged rib eyes and strip steaks come with side options such as “wild” sherry-laced mushrooms and four-cheese mac. For dessert, sip a Special K Express martini, made with a full shot of espresso. Dine alfresco or inside with a view of the kitchen. There’s a second location at Brooks Grand Plaza, U.S. 41 at Coconut Road, in Bonita Springs (239/992–4677). | Average main: $32 | 837 5th Ave. S | 239/262–4677 | www.chopscitygrill.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Côte d’Azur.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Capturing the essence of the French Riviera, Côte d’Azur offers a blend of country fare, exotic ingredients, and slow-cooked goodness with a menu that executes French technique with perfection and joie de vivre. The narrow dining room, with yellow-striped awnings and windows inset with mirrors and decorated with flower boxes, suggests a French provincial sidewalk café. The whole fish of the day is flown in directly from Europe. The regular menu is intriguing, too, with dishes including Maine lobster roasted in a clay pot with golden beets, herbs, and caviar champagne sauce; and roasted duck with sun-dried currants and cherries, green peppercorn port sauce, and roasted pear. | Average main: $32 | 11224 Tamiami Trail N | 239/597–8867 | www.cotedazurrestaurant.com | No lunch. Closed Mon.
Fernández The Bull.
$$ | CUBAN | Intrepid palates venture several miles inland to get a taste of the “Best Cuban Food in Naples,” as voted by readers of Gulfshore Life magazine. You’ll get authentic, home-cooked specialties, without pretension, at this simple storefront café. Stick to the basics, and don’t miss the lemony lechon asado (slow-roasted pork that’s grilled and basted with garlic) or ropa vieja (shreds of flank steak simmered in tomato sauce with heaps of peppers and onions). In chichi Naples, the prices are good, and the portions are better: one entrée is enough for dinner and lunch the next day, as all are served with salads, big slabs of toasted garlic bread, and two sides. The bar is wine-and-beer only; the mojitos are faux-jitos but still pretty tasty. | Average main: $17 | 1201 Piper Blvd., No. 10 | 239/254–9855 | www.fernandezthebull.com.
Fodor’s Choice | The Local.
$$ | CONTEMPORARY | You’ll find an epicurean take on healthy eating at this farm-and-sea-to-table bistro that, as the name declares, looks almost exclusively to local suppliers to stock its kitchen. Though in a strip mall a few blocks inland, the setting is hip and polished with an interior that evokes both the beach and the farm, no doubt a reflection of the young and stylish owners’ passion for nourishment. Foodies, the health-conscious, hipsters, and retirees mix equally at The Local, where ingredient origins are proudly traced: microgreens come from Herban Gardens in Fort Myers, dairy and cheese from Winter Park, and organic produce from any number of Florida growers. Choose from healthy options like a super-food salad to more savory indulgences like pork shoulder in natural jus with mango mustard. | Average main: $18 | 5323 Airport Pulling Rd. N | 239/596–3276 | www.thelocalnaples.com.
Old Naples Pub.
$ | AMERICAN | Local blue- and white-collar workers gather with shoppers for affordable sandwiches and seafood in the vaulted, vine-twisted courtyard of this traditional pub, which has been tucked away from shopping traffic off upscale 3rd Street since 1990. It strikes one as an everybody-knows-your-name kind of place, with jars of pickles on the tables and friendly bartenders. Taste any of 25 kinds of beer and order fried “ungrouper” sandwiches (made with “mild flaky white fillet” as grouper numbers wait to make a comeback), burgers, crispy chicken salad, and nachos, as well as such not-so-traditional pub grub as grilled fresh catch-of-the-day and fried gator tail. There’s musical entertainment Wednesday through Sunday year-round. | Average main: $15 | 255 13th Ave. S | 239/649–8200 | www.naplespubs.com | Reservations not accepted.
Fodor’s Choice | Osteria Tulia.
$$$ | ITALIAN | An ancestral air pervades at this intimate yet lively restaurant on 5th Avenue, where the Sicilian-born chef (and part owner) drives an authentic celebration of the Italian table. Opened in 2013, the concept is a refreshing departure from long, ornate menus and focuses on simple, finely produced, house-made Italian cuisine in a rustic, refined setting. Everything wooden was crafted from a dilapidated barn in north Florida, and the 1940s-era bricks came from a reclaimed Chicago firehouse. The signature fennel sausage is homemade from a family recipe, and the kitchen cures its own pancetta, makes its own mozzarella and ricotta cheeses, and makes and extrudes all pastas on-site. Peasant recipes for things like rabbit and wild boar shine when they’re offered seasonally, but the tortelloni with braised short ribs pleases nightly. | Average main: $25 | 466 5th Ave. S | 239/213–2073 | www.tulianaples.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Sea Salt.
$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Naples’s hottest upscale restaurant draws a crowd of connoisseurs to its modern coral-rock dining room that spills out onto the sidewalk. Venetian-born Chef Fabrizio Aielli puts a New World spin on traditional Italian on his nightly changing menu often incorporating local and organic ingredients. Everyone gets a sea-salt sampler. The best way to start is to dabble in charcuterie and European cheese. The finest quality meats and seafood go into dishes including Wagyu beef and Kurobuta pork, grilled local black grouper, and dry-packed scallops with lemon-caper oil. At lunch, choose between creative sandwiches and salads. | Average main: $35 | 1186 3rd St. S | 239/434–7258 | www.seasaltnaples.com | Reservations essential.
Tommy Bahama Restaurant and Bar.
$$$ | CARIBBEAN | Here Naples takes a youthful curve. Island music sounds on the umbrella-shaded courtyard at this eatery, the original prototype for a small national chain. It has that trademark rattan look that identifies the casual Tommy Bahama label in clothing and furniture stores across the world. Indoors and out, everybody’s munching sandwiches, salads, and grilled seafood and meats with a tropical flair, like shrimp and scallops in curry-coconut sauce and blackberry-brandy barbecued ribs. | Average main: $28 | 1220 3rd St. S | 239/643–6889 | www.tommybahama.com.
Fodor’s Choice | USS Nemo.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Don’t be fooled by the tacky glowing sign from the highway: most Neapolitans swear this is the place for seafood in town, which is why you should still make a reservation even in the heat of summer. The food is in the vein of fine dining but served in a whimsical setting with portholes, antique bronze diving gear, and colorful sculptures of fish. Speaking of fish, almost all are locally caught and reach new depths of deliciousness with eclectic, often Asian-inspired preparations. The house signature miso-broiled sea bass with citrus-ginger butter strikes the right balance between sweet and savory; the ginger-steamed halibut with soy-lime dressing and the herb-grilled tuna with warm goat cheese and seared diver scallops are also winners. | Average main: $24 | 3745 Tamiami Trail N | 239/261–6366 | www.ussnemorestaurant.com | Reservations essential | No lunch weekends.
Where to Stay
Bellasera Hotel.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This downtown hotel is just far enough “off Fifth” to be away from the dining-and-shopping foot traffic but close enough for convenience, and it feels like a lovely Italian villa with its red tile roofs and burnt-ocher stucco. The studios and suites, with earthy hues and marble flooring, huddle three stories high around a beautifully tiled pool, fountain, and courtyard. Cabanas line the pool on two sides, and Zizi restaurant flows out onto a pretty trellis-covered patio on another. The studios have in-room whirlpool tubs with plantation shutters opening onto the master bedroom so you can watch TV from your bubble bath. Pros: spacious accommodations with full home amenities (kitchens, living areas, porches, and balconies); on-site restaurant and near downtown restaurants; free bikes for guests; first-come, first-served private cabanas at pool. Cons: must take shuttle to beach; on a busy highway (though surprisingly quiet). | Rooms from: $489 | 221 9th St. S | 239/649–7333, 888/612–1115 | www.bellaseranaples.com | 10 studios, 30 1-bedroom suites, 46 2-bedroom suites, 9 3-bedroom suites | No meals.
Edgewater Beach Hotel.
$$$$ | HOTEL | At this all-suite, beachfront property at the north end of scenic Gulf Shore Boulevard, the rooms are large and refreshing, exuding a relaxed, contemporary vibe. The units in the tower are decorated in a sleek modern style, whereas the courtyard rooms surrounding the pool have a more transitional look, with gingerbread-trimmed patios (think coastal Florida charm). Meals can be enjoyed by the oceanfront pool or in the lobby restaurant that has great panoramic views of the beach. You’ll also find a small fitness center that’s open 24/7 and business facilities on the same floor. Pros: beautiful beach; quiet; exquisite views. Cons: far from shopping; surrounded closely by high-rises; no tubs in some rooms. | Rooms from: $479 | 1901 Gulf Shore Blvd. N | 239/403–2000, 888/564–1308 | www.edgewaternaples.com | 97 1-bedroom suites, 28 2-bedroom suites | No meals.
Inn on Fifth.
$$$ | HOTEL | You can’t top this luxe hotel if you want to plant yourself in the heart of Naples nightlife and shopping, and its $22-million expansion across the street in 2012 added 32 new club-level suites with perks galore like a private concierge lounge with 24/7 Champagne, a full bar and hors d’oeuvres each night, and a roof deck. Rooms are soundproofed to shut out the activity when you’re ready to wrap yourself in the provided robe and sequester yourself in comfort. When you’re not, slide open the French doors and tune in to downtown Naples from the balcony. A spa completes a list of urban amenities that include the Avenue 5 restaurant (which opened in 2014), a rooftop pool, and a columned marble lobby with crystal chandeliers and a sweeping staircase. A theater is next door, and the beach is six blocks straight ahead. Pros: central location; metro vibe; spa has free sauna for guests. Cons: pool is eye-level with power lines; beach is a long stroll or shuttle ride away. | Rooms from: $385 | 699 5th Ave. S | 239/403–8777, 888/403–8778 | www.innonfifth.com | 117 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | LaPlaya bespeaks posh and panache down to the smallest detail—note the Balinese-style spa, marble bathrooms, and a stuffed sea turtle toy to cuddle during your stay. The boutique resort features rock-waterfall pools, a beach fire pit, a tony beachfront restaurant, and a casual tiki bar that serves food. Of its 189 units, 116 are beachfront with private balconies. Some have jetted soak tubs with a view of the gulf. Pros: right on the beach; high-end amenities; beautiful rooms, which were renovated in 2012. Cons: golf course is off property; no locker rooms in spa. | Rooms from: $619 | 9891 Gulf Shore Dr. | 239/597–3123, 800/237–6883 | www.laplayaresort.com | 180 rooms, 9 suites | No meals.
FAMILY | Naples Bay Resort.
$$$ | RESORT | Dual personalities are at work in this sprawling resort, and both are upscale and polished at every turn: at one end, a 97-slip marina with a luxury hotel (a boater’s dream), and at the other a cottage resort with a busy, water-oriented recreation park. The views are lovely, as are the accommodations that range from standard rooms to one- and two-bedroom modern suites. On-site dining, boutique shops, boat and water-sport rentals … and just across the bridge is downtown Naples. At the other end of the enormous property is a Recreation Center, where you’ll find most of the resort’s five pools; a lazy river that kids adore; a quiet, adult-only oasis; a friendly pool bar and grill; a fitness center; an intimate spa; tennis courts; and large cottages that are perfect for families. To get between the two parts of the 20-acre complex, you can hoof it or take the complimentary Mercedes shuttle, which will also take you downtown, or to the nearby beaches (they’ll even do beach chair set-ups if you ask). Pros: walk to downtown; $5 water taxi to other bay-side hot spots. Cons: no beach; some highway noise. | Rooms from: $369 | 1500 5th Ave. S | 239/530–1199, 866/605–1199 | www.naplesbayresort.com | 20 rooms, 29 1-bedroom suites, 36 2-bedroom suites, 108 cottages (minimum 6-night stay in cottages) | No meals.
FAMILY | The Naples Beach Hotel & Golf Club.
$$$$ | RESORT | Family-owned and managed since 1946, this art-deco resort is a piece of Naples history—and its stretch of powdery sand has lots of action at all times. You can order drinks from the beach bar and sprawl out under an umbrella on one of the luxe chaise longues that replaced the old-style chairs in 2014. Two new swimming pools were added in 2013, when the old pool was covered and made into a grounds-watering reservoir, making room for a chic outdoor lounge area. The property is also known for its par-72, 18-hole championship golf course, the first resort course in this area of the state; it’s the only beachfront hotel in Naples with an on-site course. Though housed in a 1970s Florida hotel shell, all rooms were renovated in 2013, adding a fresh and elegant seaside appeal to the property’s authenticity. lAsk for a room in the original Florida Building for a taste of old Florida charm. Pros: terrific beach scene; golf course and driving range on property; complimentary kids’ program. Cons: expensive nightly rates; have to cross street to reach spa and breakfast dining; though interiors are freshly renovated, signature old-school exterior may not appeal to sleek tastes. | Rooms from: $459 | 851 Gulf Shore Blvd. N | 239/261–2222, 800/237–7600 | www.naplesbeachhotel.com | 267 rooms, 42 suites, 10 efficiencies | No meals.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Naples Grande Beach Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | Beach access, a golf club, and top-shelf luxury are all yours at this ultramodern high-rise formerly known as the Waldorf Astoria Naples. It not only has a new name, it underwent $18 million in renovations and redesigns including all rooms and suites. While their goal is to lure the meeting crowd, it’s still popular with families because of its immense free-form pool with a 100-foot waterslide. If the links aren’t your thing, The Naples Grande Spa just might be. It’s an indoor/outdoor “village” with four pavilions, gardens, and tranquillity galore. The hotel also has a renowned tennis program. Accommodations are spacious, the largest in Naples, and take design inspiration from its coastal location. Big bonus: every room has a direct Gulf view and a private balcony with plush seating. The hotel itself sits behind dusky, twisted mangrove forests; to get to the 3 miles of powdery white sand on Clam Pass Beach, it’s a short walk or tram ride. Catch of the Pelican and Rhode’s End are among the new hotel dining options. The Naples Grande Golf Club, the hotel’s 18-hole Rees Jones–designed course, is on a sister property. Pros: indulgent spa; great tennis; golf; beach service with cabanas; attentive service; seven bars and restaurants; family and adult pool areas. Cons: not directly on the beach; golf facility is 6 miles away with no shuttle. | Rooms from: $729 | 475 Seagate Dr. | 239/597–3232, 888/722–1267 | www.naplesgrande.com | 474 rooms, 29 suites, 50 bungalows | No meals.
Park Shore Resort.
$$$ | RENTAL | Well situated near the beaches and shopping off Gulf Shore Boulevard, this hidden retreat is practical and comfortable, offering spacious suites (all with kitchens and screened balconies), a tropical pool and grounds (with upscale gas grills), and a casual calm. Families of all ages will be able to rest and relax without pretension. Accommodations are spacious, condo-style, offering all the comforts of home including new flat-screen TVs, updated furniture, new bedding, and blackout drapes. Some may complain that the overall scene isn’t the trendiest, but all the essentials can be found here, including Wi-Fi in rooms, amiable customer service, and on-site laundry facilities. You can’t do better for the combination of location, quiet, and comfort. Pros: good value; tropical pool and shaded grounds; quiet. Cons: no restaurant; long walk to beach; no shuttle service. | Rooms from: $349 | 600 Neoplitan Way | 800/548–2077 | www.parkshorefl.com | 156 rooms | No meals.
Ramada Inn of Naples.
$$ | HOTEL | Although this two-story motel is on a major highway, it’s set back from the road, and the rooms are quiet because most of them are behind the restaurant and pool. Plus, in 2014, all the rooms were completely updated with a tropical, somewhat contemporary, feel. Landscaping is well maintained, too, and the location is convenient if you plan to sightsee. Have cocktails and seafood on-site at Pompano’s Surf and Turf restaurant. Pros: free Wi-Fi; rates drop big time off-season; complimentary breakfast. Cons: 15-minute drive to beach; on busy highway; not conducive to walking to restaurants and shops. | Rooms from: $239 | 1100 Tamiami Trail N | 239/263–3434, 800/325–1135 | www.naplesramada.com | 137 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, Naples.
$$$$ | RESORT | Ardent golfers with a yen for luxury will find their dream vacation at Naples’s most elegant golf resort where Ritz style prevails and service exceeds your wildest expectations. The lobby lounge is decorated in rich upholstery, with floor-to-ceiling views of manicured greens; step onto the beautiful terrace, especially at night, when the fire pits are aglow. Guest rooms overlook the Greg Norman–designed Tiburón course, where you can polish your skills at the PGA Experience’s TOURAcademy. You’ll also have access to the exclusive spa, Ritz Kids Natures Wonders program (which is truly amazing), and other amenities of the nearby beachside Ritz-Carlton, which is just a complimentary resort shuttle away. Pros: best golf academy in area; two championship courses at the front door; plush setting; access to Ritz spa and beach via shuttle; service par excellence. Cons: 10-minute drive to beaches; expensive rates; farther inland than most properties. | Rooms from: $649 | 2600 Tiburón Dr. | 239/593–2000 | www.ritzcarlton.com | 295 rooms | No meals.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Ritz-Carlton, Naples.
$$$$ | RESORT | This is a regal Ritz-Carlton, with marble statues and antique furnishings blended with artistic modernity in the rooms, and restaurants that now breathe airy light-blue and natural tones. A short stroll from the stately lobby is a beautiful white-sand beach dense with seashells to match the hotel’s ocean-elegance style. Given the graciousness of the staff, you quickly get over the incongruity of traipsing through the formal lobby in flip-flops, clutching a plastic bag of beach finds. In the rooms, the comforts of home prevail—assuming your home is plush and stocked with your favorite wine (yes, repeat guests don’t even have to ask: what you consumed last time is well noted). The posh spa is one of the Ritz-Carlton brand’s first and largest, offering a complete (and divine) menu of indulgences including its signature lemongrass basil scent. The resort has seven restaurants (sushi bar and lobby lounge tapas bar among them), the museum-quality Nature’s Wonder center with aquariums and colorful environmental exhibits geared toward kids, and an übercool electronics gaming room. Pros: flawless service; fun tiki bar and water-sport options; near north Naples shopping and restaurants; private, ultra-indulgent spa (guests and members only). Cons: high price tag; hike to downtown; valet parking only; extra charge for beach umbrellas annoying at this nice a place. | Rooms from: $999 | 280 Vanderbilt Beach Rd. | 239/598–3300 | www.ritzcarlton.com | 450 rooms | No meals.
Trianon Old Naples.
$$$ | HOTEL | Refined ladies and gents will feel at home in this classy boutique hotel that’s right smack in the central historic district, yet enrobed in an aura of privacy two quiet residential blocks south of 5th Avenue’s bustle. A few more quiet blocks away in the opposite direction is the Naples City Dock, and just a few more beyond that (about 1 mile total) is the 3rd Street South shopping and dining quarter. Wrought-iron balconies and shade trees set the stage outside; inside, the elegant lobby has high ceilings, a working granite fireplace, plush furnishings, and a lounge that doubles as a wine-and-beer bar and breakfast nook. Rooms are spacious and lavishly furnished, with heavy draperies. Pros: can’t-beat location for urbanites; large rooms. Cons: limited facilities; long walk (or short drive) to beach. | Rooms from: $319 | 955 7th Ave. S | 239/435–9600, 877/482–5228 | www.trianon.com | 55 rooms, 3 suites.
Nightlife and Performing Arts
Nightlife
The heart of Old Naples, 5th Avenue South, already known for its scene of lively bars and sidewalk cafés, has undergone a renaissance of sorts.
Since 2009, when bars opened at Mercato, a mixed-use luxury development, it’s been the see-and-be-seen spot (Fort Myers partiers make the hour’s drive on a regular basis!). Stroll the compact paver-lined streets on weekend nights to hear a cornucopia of live music.
Avenue Wine Café.
Young, casual oenophiles camp out here; there’s also an impressive craft beer list (that includes brews from the new Naples Beach Brewery) as well as cigars. | 483 5th Ave. S | 239/403–9463 | www.avenuewinecafe.com.
Burn by Rocky Patel.
At this part cigar bar, part dance club, you can expect pretty young things grooving to a house DJ. | 9110 Strada Pl. | 239/653–9013 | www.burnbyrockypatel.com.
Naples Beach Brewery.
With the opening of Naples Beach Brewery in 2013, the Naples scene isn’t only about fine wine anymore. This microbrewery’s concoctions can be found in almost 50 local bars and restaurants including some of Naples’ finest dining establishments. Eight brews range from the straw colored Weizen to the Naples Beach Stout. Look for a palm tree logo on bottles and taps signifying the local craft beers, or head directly to the brewery on Friday and Saturday afternoons for guided tours and tastings. But don’t expect to be wowed by a big gleaming factory, as this brewery is small and authentic, located in an industrial neighborhood sandwiched between hardware manufacturers—the real deal. | 4110 Enterprise Ave, Suite 217 | 239/304–8795 | www.naplesbeachbrewery.com | $15 | Fri. 3 pm–8 pm, Sat. noon–8 pm.
Osetra.
A hint of SoBe on the Gulf Coast serves sushi, Champagne, and caviar in a sleek setting on 5th Avenue South. | 469 5th Ave. S | 239/776–7938 | www.osetranaples.com.
The Pub.
Long lists of brews, flat-screens, and fun British decor attract a lively crowd to this popular outpost of a small, family-run chain. | 9118 Strada Pl. | 239/594–2748 | www.experiencethepub.com.
Silverspot Cinema.
More than a plush movie theater, Silverspot offers a full evening’s entertainment, including a lounge where you can sip specialty cocktails before showtime. Or do a full night out, pairing your movie with dinner and shopping at any number of recommendable spots in the same Mercato outdoor shopping district. | 9118 Strada Pl., 2nd fl. | 239/592–0300 | www.silverspot.net.
Vergina.
The mature crowd hits the dance floor for Gloria Gaynor and the Bee Gees. | 700 5th Ave. S | 239/659–7008 | www.verginarestaurant.com.
Performing Arts
Naples is the cultural capital of this stretch of coast.
Naples Philharmonic.
See the 85-piece Naples Philharmonic Orchestra perform more than 140 plays, ballets, orchestral, and chamber concerts each year at the Hayes Hall at Artis–Naples from September to June. The Miami City Ballet performs here during its winter season. | Artis–Naples, 5833 Pelican Bay Blvd. | 239/597–1900, 800/597–1900 | www.artisnaples.org.
Naples Players.
Musicals and dramas are performed year-round; winter shows often sell out well in advance. | Sugden Community Theatre, 701 5th Ave. S | 239/263–7990 | www.naplesplayers.org.
Shopping
Old Naples encompasses two distinct shopping areas marked by historic buildings and flowery landscaping: 5th Avenue South and 3rd Street South. Both are known for their abundance of fine-art galleries and monthly musical entertainment. Elsewhere, malls, outdoor plazas, and independent boutiques pepper the landscape, mostly on and around U.S. 41.
Shopping Areas
Tin City.
Near 5th Avenue South, a collection of tin-roof former boat docks along Naples Bay has more than 30 boutiques, eateries, and souvenir shops, with everything from jewelry and T-shirts to Jet Ski rentals and seafood. | 1200 5th Ave. S | www.tincity.com.
Village on Venetian Bay.
Stroll along the classy boutiques that line the water’s edge, and grab a bite at one of the excellent restaurants, all with fantastic views. | 4200 Gulf Shore Blvd. N | www.venetianvillage.com.
Waterside Shops.
Only in South Florida can you find more than four dozen upscale stores plus eateries wrapped around a series of waterfalls, waterways, and shaded open-air promenades. Saks 5th Avenue and Nordstrom are the main anchors; Burberry, De Beers, Ralph Lauren, and St. John are in the mix. | 5415 Tamiami Trail N | 239/598–1605 | www.watersideshops.com.
Specialty Shops
Gattle’s.
This downtown shop stocks pricey-but-pretty linens. | 1250 3rd St. S | 239/262–4791, 800/344–4552 | www.gattles.com.
It’s New to You.
The most upscale clothes sometimes go to this consignment shop. | 933 Creech Rd. | 239/263–8400.
Marissa Collections.
The destination in Naples for ultra-high-end designer women’s wear. | 1167 3rd St. S | 239/263–4333 | www.marissacollections.com.
Options.
Naples’s ladies who lunch often donate their year-old Armani castoffs and fine collectibles to this terrific thrift shop whose proceeds benefit the Shelter for Abused Women & Children. | 968 2nd Ave. N | 239/434–7115 | www.optionsnaples.org.
Regatta.
Among 5th Avenue South’s selection with a decidedly local flair, this shop sells personal and home accessories with a sense of humor and style. | 760 5th Ave. S | 239/262–3929 | www.regattagifts.com.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
Naples Cyclery.
For daily rentals, rates range from $6 to $32 for two hours and selections include two- and four-passenger surreys, tandems, and more; weekly rentals are also available. TIP If you need a little boost, have breakfast, lunch, or an espresso at the store’s Fit & Fuel Café, where there’s a serious fitting room if you’re in the market for a custom-fit bike. | Pavilion Shopping Center, 813 Vanderbilt Beach Rd. | 239/566–0600 | www.naplescyclery.com.
Boating and Fishing
Mangrove Outfitters.
Take a guided boat and learn to cast and tie flies. | 4111 Tamiami Trail E | 239/793–3370, 888/319–9848 | www.mangroveoutfitters.com.
Port Of Naples Marina.
All new boats makes this the youngest fleet to rent. Choose pontoon or deck boats, starting at $169 for two hours. | 550 Port-O-Call Way | 239/774–0479 | www.portofnaplesmarina.com.
FAMILY | Pure Naples.
Half-day deep-sea and backwater fishing trips depart twice daily. Sightseeing cruises and thrilling jet tours are also available, along with jet ski and boat rentals and private charters. | Tin City, 1200 5th Ave. S | 239/263–4949 | www.purenaples.com.
Golf
Lely Resort Golf and Country Club.
Flamingo Island (designed by Robert Trent Jones) and The Mustang (designed by Lee Trevino) are the two championship courses open to the public at Lely Resort. Flamingo Island features white-sand bunkers, hourglass fairways, and large greens, along with its signature 3200-yard hole 5 with a water-rimmed rolling fairway, bunkers, and two bridges providing the only access to the mainland. The Mustang features 12 lakes and rolling fairways. There’s also a John Jacobs’ golf school on premises. | 8004 Grand Lely Blvd. | 239/793–2600 | www.lelyresortgolfandcountryclub.com/ | $169 | Flamingo Island: 18 holes, 7171 yards, par 72; The Mustang: 18 holes, 7217 yards, par 72.
The Naples Beach Hotel & Golf Club.
This historic club has weekly clinics, a driving range, and a putting green and is replete with nostalgia as the region’s oldest course, built in 1929. It was last redesigned in 1998 by golf architect Ron Garl, and refurbished in 2011. TIP It has been voted “Top 50 Women Friendly Golf Courses in the U.S.” by the magazine Golf for Women. | 851 Gulf Shore Blvd. N | 239/435–2475 | www.naplesbeachhotel.com | $55 for 9 holes, $99 for 18 holes | 18 holes, 6488 yards, par 72.
Tiburón Golf Club.
There are two 18-hole Greg Norman–designed courses, the Gold and the Black—an especially difficult course carved right out of a cypress preserve. Challenging and environmentally pristine, the links include narrow fairways, stacked sod wall bunkers, coquina sand, and no roughs. New this year is the PGA Experience’s TOURAcademy. TIP You cannot books months in advance unless you’re staying at one of the Ritz-Carlton hotels. Nonguests can book 10 days out. | Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, 2620 Tiburón Dr. | 239/593–2201 | www.tiburongcnaples.com | $225 | Tiburón Gold: 18 holes, 7271 yards, par 74.9; Tiburón Black: 18 holes, 6949 yards, par 75.01.
Marco Island
20 miles south of Naples via Rte. 951.
High-rises dominate part of the shores of Marco Island, which is connected to the mainland by two bridges. Yet because of its distance from downtown Naples, it retains an isolated feeling much appreciated by those who love this corner of the world. Some natural areas have been preserved, and the down-home fishing village of Goodland, a 20-minute drive from historic Old Marco, resists change. Fishing, boating, sunning, swimming, and tennis are the primary activities here.
Getting Here and Around
From Naples, Collier Boulevard (Route 951) takes you to Marco Island. If you’re not renting a car, taxi rides cost about $100 from the regional airport in Fort Myers, and Collier Area Transit (CAT) runs regular buses through the area. Key West Express operates a ferry from Marco Island (from Christmas through Easter) and Fort Myers Beach (year-round) to Key West. The cost for the round-trip (less than four hours each way) is $147 from either Fort Myers Beach or Marco Island.
Contacts
Collier Area Transit (CAT). | 239/252–7777 | www.colliergov.net/CAT.
Key West Express. | 951 Bald Eagle Dr. | 239/394–9700, 888/539–2628 | www.keywestexpress.us.
Visitor Information
Contacts
Marco Island Area Chamber of Commerce. | 1102 N. Collier Blvd. | 239/394–7549, 888/330–1422 | www.marcoislandchamber.org.
Naples, Marco Island, Everglades Convention and Visitors Bureau. | 800/688–3600, 239/225–1013 | www.paradisecoast.com.
Exploring
Marco Island Historical Museum.
Marco Island was once part of the ancient Calusa kingdom. The Key Marco Cat, a statue found in 1896 excavations, has become symbolic of the island’s prehistoric significance. The original is part of the Smithsonian Institution’s collection, but a replica of the Key Marco Cat is among displays illuminating the ancient past at this museum, which opened in January 2011. Three rooms examine the island’s history with dioramas, artifacts, and signage: the Calusa Room, Pioneer Room, and Modern Marco Room. A fourth hosts traveling exhibits focusing on the settlement history of the island. Outside, the yard was built to look like a Calusa village atop a shell mound with a water feature and chickee structure. | 180 S. Heathwood Dr. | 239/642–1440 | www.colliermuseums.com | Free | Tues.–Sat. 9–4.
Beaches
FAMILY | Tigertail Beach.
On the northwest side of the island is 2,500 feet of both developed and undeveloped areas. Once gulf front, in recent years a sand spit known as Sand Dollar Island has formed, which means the stretch especially at the north end has become mud flats—great for birding. There’s plenty of powdery sand further south and across the lagoon that draws a broad base of fans flocking there for its playgrounds, butterfly garden, volleyball nets, and kayak and umbrella rentals. Beach wheelchairs are also available for free use. TIP The Conservancy of Southwest Florida conducts free educational beach walks at Tigertail Beach every weekday from 8:30 to 9:30 from January to mid-April. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets; water sports; parking (paid). Best for: sunset; walking; swimming. | 490 Hernando Dr. | 239/252–4000 | www.collierparks.com | Parking $8 | Daily 8–sunset.
Where to Eat
Fodor’s Choice | Arturo’s.
$$ | ITALIAN | This place is huge, with expansive Romanesque dining rooms and more seating on the patio. Still, it fills up year-round with a strong well-dressed following that appreciates a fun attitude and serious Italian cuisine done comprehensively and traditionally. Start with the plump mussels marinara, then choose from a lengthy list of classic Italian entrées, including homemade pasta. The stuffed pork chop, a nightly special, is a winner, as is the New York–style cheesecake. | Average main: $20 | 844 Bald Eagle Dr. | 239/642–0550 | www.arturosmarcoisland.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Café de Marco.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | This cozy little bistro with cheery yellow walls and stained-glass windows has served expertly prepared local fish since 1983. The jumbo prawns—an entire pound butterflied and broiled in their shell—are the signature dish, but grilled filet mignon on phyllo pastry proves the kitchen also knows how to do meat. Try stuffed Florida lobster, sautéed frogs’ legs, or the broiled seafood platter. For a taste of the café without the sticker shock, dine from 5 to 5:45 for a reduced-price early-bird menu. | Average main: $29 | 244 Palm St. | 239/394–6262 | www.cafedemarco.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. May–Dec. No lunch.
Crazy Flamingo.
$ | AMERICAN | Burgers, conch fritters, and chicken wings draw mostly locals to this neighborhood bar, where there’s counter service only and seating indoors and outdoors on the sidewalk. Try the peel-and-eat shrimp, sushi, mussels marinara, chicken bistro salad, or fried grouper basket. | Average main: $11 | Marco Island Town Center, 1035 N. Collier Blvd. | 239/642–9600 | www.thecrazyflamingo.com.
Old Marco Lodge Crab House.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Built in 1869, this waterfront restaurant is Goodland’s oldest landmark. Boaters often cruise in and tie up dockside to sit on the veranda and dine on local seafood and pasta entrées. The crab-cake sandwich is a popular lunch option. For dinner, start with a wholesome bowl of vegetable crab soup and then a trip to the salad bar (included in the price of entrées). The menu has all manner of seafood dishes, including a teriyaki shrimp wrap, a basket of fried oysters, and a soft-shell crab sandwich. There’s also steak and chicken dishes for landlubbers. Save room for the authentic key lime pie. | Average main: $25 | 401 Papaya St. | Goodland | 239/642–7227 | www.oldmarcolodge.com | No credit cards | Closed Aug.–Sept.
Sale e Pepe.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Marco’s best dining view comes also with some of its finest cuisine. The name means “salt and pepper,” an indication that this palatial restaurant with terrace seating overlooking the beach adheres to the basics of Southern Italian cuisine. Pastas, sausages, and ice cream are made right here in the kitchen. Simple, artfully presented dishes—butternut squash ravioli, Cornish hen with grilled oyster mushrooms, yellow-pepper-and-shrimp soup, baked salmon with lobster sauce, Chianti-braised short ribs, and tomato-crusted Atlantic salmon—explode with home-cooked, long-simmered flavors. With the exception of a handful of pizzas, lunch is more traditional, less Italian. | Average main: $25 | Marco Beach Ocean Resort, 480 S. Collier Blvd. | 239/393–1400 | www.sale-e-pepe.com.
Snook Inn.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Situated on the water with live entertainment in the tiki bar and a loaded salad bar, it’s no wonder this place has been a casual favorite for locals and visitors for decades. Signature items include the spicy conch chowder, beer-battered grouper, Caribbean BBQ baby back ribs, and grouper in a bag with mushroom crab sauce. | Average main: $21 | 1215 Bald Eagle Dr., Old Marco | 239/394–3313 | www.snookinn.com | Reservations not accepted.
Sunset Grille.
$$ | AMERICAN | Head to this popular spot for casual dining with a view of the beach and a menu of munchies, sandwiches, burgers, seafood, and steak. A sampling: loaded nachos, black and blue salad, fried shrimp basket, French dip sandwich, seared ahi tuna, and BBQ baby back ribs. The lively sports-bar scene adds to the fun indoors; a porch accommodates alfresco diners—just beware if you leave your table that the porch has no screens, and the local gulls are thieves. | Average main: $16 | Apollo Condominiums, 900 S. Collier Blvd. | 239/389–0509 | www.sunsetgrilleonmarcoisland.com | Reservations not accepted.
Verdi’s American Bistro.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | There’s a Zen feel to this intimate bistro built on creative American-Italian-Asian fusion cuisine. You might start with steamed littleneck clams in garlic butter or duck potstickers, then move on to entrées such as grilled swordfish with pumpkin seeds, miso-glazed shrimp, pasta pomodoro, or the New Zealand rack of lamb. Cuban coffee crème brûlée and deep-dish apple strudel are among the tempting desserts. | Average main: $28 | Sand Dollar Plaza, 241 N. Collier Blvd. | 239/394–5533 | www.verdisbistro.com | Closed Sept. No lunch.
Where to Stay
The Boat House Motel.
$ | HOTEL | For a great location at a good price, check into this modest, but appealing, two-story motel at the north end of the island on the Marco River, close to the Gulf. Its white facade and turquoise trim set the tone for the clean units, most of which have been recently updated and decorated with their own individual style. King-size rooms have a balcony or walled-in terrace, and some have great water views. lYou can arrive by boat and dock at the hotel or, if coming by land, use the dock as a fishing pier. Pros: away from busy beach traffic; affordable; boating docks and access. Cons: no beach; hard to find; tight parking area. | Rooms from: $177 | 1180 Edington Pl. | 239/642–2400, 800/528–6345 | www.theboathousemotel.com | 20 rooms | No meals.
Hilton Marco Island Beach Resort and Spa.
$$$ | RESORT | This 11-story hotel is smaller and more conservative than the Marriott—but it seems less busy and crowded—and rooms, redesigned with a contemporary beachy style, are spacious and have private balconies with full or partial ocean views. Each also has a sitting area with a pull-out sofa, a dry bar, bathrobes, and a mini-refrigerator. The stand-alone spa has 11 treatment rooms and a full range of pampering services. Pros: gorgeous, wide beach; complete business services; exclusive feel. Cons: a little stuffy; charges for self-parking; business focus. | Rooms from: $399 | 560 S. Collier Blvd. | 239/394–5000, 800/445–8667 | www.hiltonmarcoisland.com | 271 rooms, 22 suites, 4 penthouses | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Marco Beach Ocean Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | One of the island’s first condo hotels, this 12-story class act has luxurious one- and two-bedroom suites decorated in elegant neutral tones with the finest fixtures; all rooms face the water and look down onto the crescent-shape rooftop pool (on the fifth floor). The bathrooms have marble tile floors, walls, and vanities, plus separate tubs and showers. Full kitchens with high-end GE appliances are in every suite, and the two-bedroom ones have full refrigerators and dishwashers. The Sale e Pepe restaurant wins raves and awards for its southern Italian cuisine and a plush dining room that spills out onto a beachfront terrace. Pros: gourmet dining; intimate; on beach; sophisticated crowd. Cons: steep prices; squeezed between high-rises; near a busy resort. | Rooms from: $609 | 480 S. Collier Blvd. | 239/393–1400, 800/715–8517 | www.marcoresort.com | 83 1-bedroom and 15 2-bedroom suites | No meals.
FAMILY | Marco Island Marriott Beach Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | A grandiose circular drive with rock waterfalls front this hilltop, beachfront resort that’s undergoing a $250 million makeover on its rebranding journey (that will be unveiled in 2017). Made up of twin 11-story towers and villa-like suites, two large pools, and the widest stretch of sand on the island (over 3 miles), it’s an island-seekers dream. The ambience is comfortably casual yet sophisticated with a Balinese flair that makes every ounce of stress just melt into those magnificent horizon views. Shops, restaurants with überimpressive decor and menus, and the large, plush rooms with new plug-in technology make leaving the resort for anything a silly idea. The stand-alone spa is massive and offers ultrapampering services. Kids love the zero-entry pool with a slide and water features, and adults station themselves at the beautifully landscaped one next door. The hotel’s two golf courses are 10 minutes away by shuttle. Pros: great spa; eight on-site restaurants; appeals to children and adults; two private golf courses. Cons: huge size; lots of convention business; paid parking across the street in an uncovered lot; $25 daily resort fee but at least it includes a bevy of freebies like Wi-Fi and range balls. | Rooms from: $569 | 400 S. Collier Blvd. | 239/394–2511, 800/438–4373 | www.marcoislandmarriott.com | 664 rooms, 62 suites | No meals.
Olde Marco Island Inn & Suites.
$$$ | RENTAL | This Victorian with tin roofs and royal-blue shutters and awnings used to be the only place to stay on the island when lodging back then was in the circa-1883 historic building that now holds the restaurant; today guests check into newer hotel sections with comfortable condo suites. It’s in the heart of Old Marco and part of a shopping complex that struggled for a while but seems to be picking up again. The large one- and two-bedroom tiled suites with screened lanais are ideal for families, and all accommodations are well maintained for the most part. The number of available rooms changes according to owners placing or removing their units from the rental program. Pros: quiet part of the island; full kitchen in every room; free Wi-Fi; laundry facilities; free covered parking. Cons: must drive to beach; annexed to a shopping center; office closes at night. | Rooms from: $306 | 100 Palm St. | 239/394–3131, 877/475–3466 | www.oldemarcoinn.com | 50 suites, 1 penthouse | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
Scootertown Island Bike Shop.
Rentals are available at Scootertown Island Bike Shop for use on the island’s bike path along beachfront condos, resorts, and residential areas. Charges begin at $12 for one day, but you can also rent by the week. | 1095 Bald Eagle Dr. | 239/394–8400 | www.islandbikeshops.com.
Fishing
Sunshine Tours.
Try a deep-sea ($135 per person for half day) or backcountry ($65 per person for three hours) fishing charter with this outfitter. | Rose Marina, 951 Bald Eagle Dr. | 239/642–5415 | www.sunshinetoursmarcoisland.com.