Chapter 18

Desserts

Swedish Apple Cake

Chocolate Sticky Cake (Kladdkaka)

Sandbakkels

Gluten-Free Norwegian Wet Cake (Bløtekake)

Swedish Strawberry Cake (Jordgubbstårta)

Almond Cake

Icelandic Prune Cake (Vinarterta)

Apple Pie with Gjetost Cheese

Almond Rusks

Rye Cookies

Danish Pepper Nuts (Pebernødder)

Frozen Lingonberry Yogurt

Norwegian Troll Cream (Trollkrem)

Cardamom Ice Cream

Rye Bread Ice Cream

Veiled Country Lass (Bondepige med Slør)

Swedish Apple Cake

Swedish apple cake, with its beautiful top layer of apple slices and almonds, is a harbinger of autumn. Serve it warm with vanilla sauce or ice cream.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 12

14 cup dry rye bread crumbs

1 cup butter

1 cup white sugar

5 eggs

1 teaspoon baking powder

114 cups flour

4 baking apples, pared and sliced into thin wedges

3 tablespoons brown sugar

3 teaspoons ground cinnamon

12 teaspoon nutmeg

13 cup coarsely chopped almonds

 

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously butter a 10 round cake pan. Shake the bread crumbs across the pan so they adhere to both the bottom and sides of the pan.

2. Cream together butter and white sugar, then incorporate eggs into the batter. Sprinkle with baking powder, then add the flour in 13-cup increments, mixing well to prevent lumps.

3. In a small bowl toss the apple slices together with the brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

4. Transfer the cake batter to the prepared pan, then gently arrange the apple slices in circles on top of the batter, covering it completely. Sprinkle any remaining sugar-spice mixture and the chopped almonds across the top of the cake.

5. Bake cake for 1 hour, then test it for doneness in the center with a toothpick.

Chocolate Sticky Cake (Kladdkaka)

Ready in less time that it takes to whip up a humdrum box of brownies, Swedish kladdkaka is the ultimate in chocolate decadence.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 8

4 eggs

112 cups sugar

18 teaspoon salt

12 cup flour

4 heaping tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

12 cup melted butter, cooled to room temperature

Powdered sugar to garnish

 

1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a mixing bowl combine the eggs and sugar. Sprinkle with salt, then beat in the flour.

2. Whisk the cocoa powder and vanilla extract into the melted butter. Vigorously whip the butter into the cake batter to get as much air into it as possible.

3. Butter and flour a 9 round cake pan; pour in the batter. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes. At this point, use a toothpick to test the cake—it needs to come out dry when inserted at the edge of the cake, but should come out sticky with chocolate when placed in the cake’s center.

4. Sprinkle top of cake with powdered sugar and serve.

Sandbakkels

Sandbakkels are equally delicious served alone as cookies (place them on the plate so their “design” side is showcased) or as delicate tarts filled with fresh berries and whipped cream.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 3 DOZEN COOKIES

1 cup salted butter

34 cup sugar

1 egg

1 teaspoon almond or vanilla extract

512 cups flour

 

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, cream together the butter and sugar, then add egg, almond extract, and flour, beating vigorously into a smooth batter.

2. Use cooking spray to grease your sandbakkel tins, then arrange them on a baking sheet. Pinch off small balls of the dough and, using your thumbs, press each ball into a tin so that it thinly covers the bottom and sides (18 thick or less).

3. Bake in oven for 12–15 minutes, just until brown (watch closely, for they will burn quickly).

4. Remove from oven, cool, and then carefully remove from tins (it helps to tap the bottom of each tin very lightly on the counter to loosen the tart).

Gluten-Free Norwegian Wet Cake (Bløtekake)

Bløtekake, or “wet cake,” moistened by the juice of its crushed-strawberry filling, is the premier birthday cake of Norway. This gluten-free version will be much appreciated when made as a surprise for friends with wheat sensitivity.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 12

5 eggs

112 cups sugar

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

114 cups Swan’s potato starch flour

1 teaspoon gluten-free baking powder

5 cups whipping cream

3 teaspoons vanilla sugar (see sidebar) or 3 teaspoons vanilla extract

4 cups crushed strawberries

Extra strawberries, blueberries, other colorful fruit, or edible flowers for garnish

Vanilla Sugar

Vanilla sugar is more commonly used than vanilla extract in Scandinavian baking. To make it, fill a mason jar with 1 cup of powdered sugar, then split open a vanilla bean. Stick the vanilla bean in the middle of the jar, then pour 1 more cup of powdered sugar on top. Cover and place in the cupboard for 2 weeks, shaking the jar every day or two. This makes a superlative gift for those who enjoy baking the Scandinavian way.

 

1. Grease and use a small amount of the potato starch flour to prepare 2 (9) round cake pans for baking. Preheat oven to 350ºF.

2. Separate the egg whites from the yolks into two separate containers. Mix together the yolks, sugar, lemon juice and zest, then incorporate the potato starch flour.

3. Whip the egg whites until solid peaks arise. Lightly fold 12 of the whites into the cake batter, then pour all of the batter into the remaining egg whites and fold together just until blended.

4. Transfer 23 of the batter to 1 cake pan, and 13 of the batter to the second pan. Bake in oven for 40 minutes (it’s a good idea to check the thinner cake with a toothpick for readiness at 30 minutes). Place both pans on baking racks until cooled.

5. In a separate bowl, combine the cream with the vanilla sugar and whip until peaks form.

6. When ready to assemble the cake, cut the thicker cake evenly in half. Place the bottom portion on a decorative plate and cover with 12 of the crushed strawberries. Frost with enough of the whipped vanilla cream to cover, then top with the next cake layer and repeat: crushed strawberries and then whipped vanilla cream. Use the remaining whipped vanilla cream to frost the entire cake.

7. Garnish with additional berries and/or edible flowers and serve with aplomb. In Norwegian, Gratulerer med dagen! (“Happy Birthday!” but also said on other occasions.)

Swedish Strawberry Cake (Jordgubbstårta)

Similar in preparation to Norwegian bløtekake, this version of strawberry cake incorporates a luscious almond cream filling and white chocolate icing. Use June’s seasonal local strawberries to make this the crowning glory of a Midsummer’s Eve bonfire party.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 12

4 eggs

5 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided

1 cup flour

34 cup plus 2 tablespoons Swan’s potato starch flour, divided use

112 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons vanilla sugar or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 cups milk

2 egg yolks

12 cup toasted almonds, ground

6 ounces grated white chocolate

8 ounces cream cheese

14 cup butter, softened

1–2 cups powdered sugar

2 cups strawberries, sliced or lightly mashed

 

1. For the cake, beat together 4 eggs and 2 cups regular sugar, then gradually add 1 cup flour, 34 cup potato starch flour, baking powder, and vanilla sugar. Set aside in the refrigerator to rest while you prepare the cake filling.

2. To make almond cream filling, bring milk almost to a boil in a saucepan over medium heat. Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl beat together 2 egg yolks and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, then whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons potato starch flour. Slowly whisk the warm milk into your egg mixture; when all is incorporated, return the cream to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until mixture thickens and begins to bubble. Remove from heat, fold in toasted ground almonds, and cool.

3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a 9 springform pan. Pour the cooled batter into the pan and cook for 40 minutes or until done. Remove from oven and cool completely before removing from pan.

4. For icing, melt white chocolate in a double boiler or microwave, then cool slightly. Whip together cream cheese and softened butter, stir in melted white chocolate, then beat in enough powdered sugar to make a fluffy icing. Place in refrigerator for 15 minutes or more to set.

5. To assemble cake, release the cake from its springform pan and cut into two equal halves. Spread the bottom half with almond cream and top with the strawberries. Top with remaining half of cake, then cover the tops and sides with the frosting. Garnish generously with additional strawberries and serve.

Almond Cake

Almond cake is a big seller at Scandinavian-American festivals and fundraisers. Baked in a grooved metal pan, it is just rich and dense enough to be the superlative coffeecake.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 18

34 cup sliced almonds

1 stick butter or margarine

114 cups sugar

1 egg

4 teaspoons almond extract

23 cup milk

114 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

12 teaspoon salt

Powdered sugar for garnish

Cold Cakes and Cookies

It’s traditional for Scandinavian and Scandinavian-American bakers to provide a regular potlatch of homemade cookies and cakes (at least 7 varieties) for their loved ones during Advent and Christmas. The secret to doing this without killing themselves: their freezers. Most cakes, cookies, breads, and even lefse freeze beautifully for up to 4 months, so you can begin baking your holiday treats in September (preferably after the kids have returned to school, to avoid shrinkage).

 

1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. On the stovetop, toast sliced almonds in a large, ungreased frying pan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until golden. Remove, cool, and grind in a food processor or nut grinder.

2. Whisk together butter and sugar, then add in egg, almond extract, and milk. Beat in flour, baking powder, and salt to make a smooth batter.

3. Use additional butter to coat all inner sides of an almond cake pan (or substitute a regular bread pan). Drop in the ground almonds and shake pan so they stick to the pan’s bottom and sides.

4. Spoon cake batter evenly into the pan.

5. Bake in oven for up to 50 minutes, checking for doneness at 40 minutes. When done, remove cake from oven and cool in the pan (if you remove the cake from the pan while it’s warm, it will break). Sprinkle cooled cake with powdered sugar before serving.

Icelandic Prune Cake (Vinarterta)

Vinarterta, also known as randalín (“striped lady cake”), is sometimes topped with an almond or butter icing. But, the cake is so incredibly rich that it is perhaps best when served unfrosted, glorified by its stripes alone.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 40

4 pounds pitted prunes

312 cups sugar, divided use

1 teaspoon cinnamon

212 teaspoons freshly ground cardamom, divided use

1 cup butter

3 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

112 teaspoons almond extract

6 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

14 cup whipping cream

 

1. For prune filling, place prunes in a saucepan and add just enough water to cover. Bring pot to a low boil over medium heat and simmer until the prunes are soft, about 20 minutes. Drain the prunes, reserving 1 cup prune juice.

2. After prunes have cooled, purée them in a blender or food processor. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the reserved prune juice, 112 cups of the sugar, cinnamon, and 12 teaspoon of the cardamom. Return to the saucepan and heat, stirring steadily, until mixture thickens to the consistency of lemon curd. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

3. For cake, mix together the butter and remaining 2 cups sugar in a heavy mixer. Add the eggs one at a time, then stir in the vanilla and almond extracts.

4. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, remaining 2 teaspoons of the cardamom, and the salt.

5. Alternate adding the dry ingredients and the cream to the cake batter. The dough will be heavy and dense.

6. Preheat oven to 375°F. Divide dough evenly into 8 portions. On a floured counter, roll each portion into a 18-thick round, about 10 in diameter. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper, place one round on it, and bake just until golden, about 10 minutes. Cool on a cake rack; repeat for the remaining 7 layers.

7. To assemble, place the least attractive layer of cake on a plate and spread with a thin layer of prune filling. Repeat the layers, ending with the prettiest layer. Place in an airtight container and allow to sit for 48 hours (the prune filling will soak into and soften the cake layers).

8. Dust with powdered sugar and cut into very thin slices.

Apple Pie with Gjetost Cheese

The spelt flour used in this flavorful apple pie lends a special nutty flavor to the crust. Look for it in organic food stores.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 10

5 cups plus 1 tablespoon spelt flour, divided use

1 teaspoon salt

23 cup unsalted butter, chilled and diced

6–7 tablespoons ice water

6 baking apples (like Granny Smith)

12 cup sugar

1 teaspoon cardamom, freshly ground

12 teaspoon cinnamon

412 ounces Ski Queen gjetost cheese

1 egg beaten together with 2 teaspoons water as egg wash

1 tablespoon sparkling sugar

Sifting Flour

You don’t need a fancy sifter to mix together today’s flours and spices for baking. Simply use a large balloon whisk to fluff the dry ingredients together for 30 seconds before incorporating them into your batter or dough. It’s a lot faster than a sifter and less likely to scatter flour all over your kitchen.

 

1. Sift 2 cups of the spelt flour and the salt into a chilled mixing bowl, then use a pastry blender or 2 knives to cut the butter into the flour until the mixture has the texture of small dried peas. Add the ice water, 2 tablespoons at a time, and blend into the mixture with a fork until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl in a soft mass (you don’t want to add too much water).

2. On a lightly floured counter, gently knead the dough 3 times, then return it to its bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

3. After the spelt pastry dough has rested, divide it in half and roll each half into rounds. Place one round in the bottom of a 9 pie plate and pierce the bottoms and sides with a fork.

4. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Peel, pare, and thinly slice the apples, then toss together with the sugar, remaining tablespoon of spelt flour, cardamom, and cinnamon.

5. Coarsely grate the gjetost cheese, then sprinkle half of it on the bottom pie crust. Spoon in the apple mixture, then top with the remaining grated gjetost. Cover with the second pie crust, sealing the edges together; crimp the sides and cut a few slits in the top.

6. Shield the edges of the pie with aluminum foil, then bake in center of oven for 30 minutes. Remove the foil, brush the top of the pie with the egg wash, then sprinkle with sparkling sugar. Return to the oven and cook for 15 more minutes.

7. Serve warm, accompanied by cardamom or rye bread ice cream.

Almond Rusks

Whether you call them biscotti, rusks, kavring, zweiback, or mandelskorpor, these twice-baked cookies should be considered mandatory whenever a Scandinavian-style coffee table is hosted.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 4 DOZEN

4 eggs

1 cup sugar

1 cup canola oil

1 teaspoon almond extract

3 cups spelt flour (or substitute all-purpose)

1 teaspoon baking powder

12 teaspoon baking soda

12 teaspoon salt

34 cup coarsely chopped almonds, toasted

Be Creative

In the spirit of Swedish cookbook author Kasja Warg’s credo, “Use what you have” available to jazz up this basic almond rusk recipe—dried cranberries, apricots, chocolate chips, dates—the possibilities are limited only by what’s on hand in your baking cupboard.

 

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, canola oil, and almond extract.

2. In a separate bowl, use a balloon whisk to stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and toasted almonds. Add to the batter in 12-cup increments until all of the flour is incorporated into a soft dough.

3. Line two jellyroll or other large baking sheets with parchment paper, then divide the batter between the two, using a spatula to spread the batter into long, 112-wide lengths.

4. Bake for 10–15 minutes until golden brown. Remove pans from the oven and reduce the heat to 275°F.

5. Cut each length into 12-inch diagonal slices, then place the slices, cut-side down, back on the baking sheets. Return to oven and bake for 10 more minutes, then turn the heat off completely and allow the rusks to remain in oven for an additional 20 minutes.

Rye Cookies

In Finland and Sweden, rye cookies are often strung with a ribbon on one’s Christmas tree, available as a festive snack for guests.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 4 DOZEN

1 cup butter

12 cup sugar

1 egg

1 cup all-purpose flour

12 cup light rye flour

12 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ginger

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon hornsalt (or 2 teaspoons baking powder)

1 egg white

3 tablespoons sparkling white sugar

Hornsalt

Hornsalt, also known as baker’s ammonia, is the secret to achieving cookies with an unparalleled crispness—and without the metallic aftertaste that can accompany baking powder. Although you’ll catch a whiff of ammonia as your cookies bake (don’t be tempted to taste the raw cookie dough), the ammonia completely bakes off, leaving cookies with the most delicate of textures.

 

1. Using a stand mixer or large mixing bowl, cream together the butter and sugar, then beat the egg into the batter.

2. Sift together the flours, salt, spices, and hornsalt, then incorporate into the batter in 13-cup increments. Once the dough has pulled together, place it on a floured counter and divide it in half. Flour your hands and gently roll each half into a 2-thick cylinder. Wrap in cling wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.

3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut the cooled dough into 18-thick slices, then use a thimble to cut the center out of each slice. Place on a cookie sheet lined with a silpat or parchment paper. Brush each cookie with egg wash and sprinkle sparkling sugar on top.

4. Bake until browned, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Danish Pepper Nuts (Pebernødder)

Tuck these tiny ginger-scented jewels into woven paper baskets as treats for children and adults alike.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES AROUND 300

1 cup butter or margarine, at room temperature

12 cup packed brown sugar

12 cup white sugar

1 egg

5 cups all-purpose flour (or use 112 cup spelt flour and 112 cup all-purpose flour)

1 teaspoon baking powder

12 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

12 teaspoon ground ginger

12 teaspoon ground cloves

 

1. Preheat oven to 375ºF. Cream together the butter, brown sugar, and white sugar, then beat in the egg.

2. In a separate bowl, use a balloon whisk to mix together the remaining ingredients.

3. Beat the flour into the creamed butter to form a stiff dough.

4. On a floured counter, roll the dough into 12-thick “snakes.” Use cooking shears or a knife to cut the snakes into pieces the size of hazelnuts.

5. Place on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet and place in preheated oven; bake for 8 minutes or until browned (watch to make sure peppernuts don’t burn).

6. Remove from oven and cool on rack. Peppernuts, like most Scandinavian cookies, freeze beautifully for later enjoyment.

Frozen Lingonberry Yogurt

Pleasantly tart, frozen lingonberry yogurt is a delightful finish for a summer supper. Here’s how to make it without an ice-cream maker; you can, of course, use an ice-cream maker for similar results with less work.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 212 CUPS

18 ounces heavy whipping cream

18 ounces plain skyr or nonfat Greek yogurt

4 cups Lingonberry Jam (see Chapter 7)

12 cup sugar

 

1. Whisk together the whipping cream, yogurt, jam, and sugar.

2. Pour mixture into a bowl and freeze for 45 minutes.

3. After 45 minutes, remove bowl from freezer and whisk ingredients strongly to break up the crystals. Return to freezer.

4. Repeat this process every 20 minutes for up to 3 hours, until the mixture is solid. Cover and freeze until serving.

Norwegian Troll Cream (Trollkrem)

Although traditionally made by beating together egg whites, sugar, and fresh lingonberries into a foam, Norwegian troll cream can be made even more easily by substituting pasteurized meringue powder (available in craft stores and from cake decorating suppliers) for the raw egg whites.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

5 teaspoons meringue powder

2 tablespoons warm water

12 cup Lingonberry Jam (see Chapter 7)

 

1. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the meringue powder and warm water until dissolved, then stir in the jam.

2. Using a hand mixer or the whisk attachment of a stand mixer, whip the liquid vigorously at a high speed for 15 minutes, until the mixture expands into a thick foam.

3. Spoon the trollkrem into serving bowls and serve immediately.

Cardamom Ice Cream

Cardamom and vanilla ice cream are a match made in heaven—while wonderful served on its own, this easily prepared cardamom ice cream is phenomenal as an accompaniment to warm fruit pies or fruit crumbles.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 1 PINT

8 egg yolks, room temperature

1 cup Superfine sugar

4 cups milk

2 cups whipping cream

1 (2") piece vanilla bean

1 tablespoon cardamom, freshly ground

No Ice Cream Maker?

No worries. To make ice cream without a machine or salt, simply place the custard in a pan and place it in the freezer. Remove it at 20-minute intervals and stir vigorously with a whisk, until it has frozen to the desired consistency. Allow it to freeze an additional 24 hours before serving.

 

1. Beat together the egg yolks and Superfine sugar until creamy.

2. In a saucepan, combine the milk and whipping cream. Scrape the seeds of the vanilla bean into the liquid, then add the bean halves and the cardamom.

3. Heat the milk over medium-high heat just until it reaches a low scald. Remove from heat and very slowly whisk the warm milk in a steady stream into the egg yolks. After the custard is thoroughly combined, remove the vanilla bean halves and return the custard to the saucepan.

4. Bring the custard to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 8 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

5. Prepare the ice cream in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Rye Bread Ice Cream

It’s hard to say exactly where rye bread ice cream originated, since it is now popular across northern Europe. In Iceland, it is the hallmark dessert served at Reykjavik’s trendy Café Loki.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 8

4 thick slices rye bread (spicy Swedish limpa bread also works beautifully)

4 tablespoons butter

12 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

4 cups heavy whipping cream

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 teaspoon vanilla or cardamom extract

1 tablespoon toasted caraway seeds (optional)

 

1. Cut the rye bread into coarse bread crumbs. Toast the crumbs in a large frying pan until they start to brown, then mix in the butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Fry until the crumbs have caramelized, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and cool.

2. Using a mixer, whip the heavy whipping cream until soft peaks form. Add the sweetened condensed milk and vanilla or cardamom extract, and beat a minute or so until combined. Fold in the caramelized rye bread crumbs and pour into a freezer container. Cover and freeze overnight.

3. Top with toasted caraway seeds, if desired, when serving.

Veiled Country Lass (Bondepige med Slør)

Scandinavia’s take on trifle, Veiled Country Lass gets its name from the snowy mantle of sweetened whipped cream that crowns layers of rustic rye bread crumbs and slightly spiced applesauce.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

12 cup water

4 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon white or brown sugar plus 1 tablespoon brown sugar, divided

12 teaspoon ground cardamom

14 teaspoon ground cinnamon

8 large apples, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped

4 tablespoons butter

2 cups rye bread crumbs

14 cup walnuts or pecans, finely chopped

1 cup whipping cream, chilled

1 tablespoon vanilla sugar

12 cup raspberry, lingonberry, or red currant preserves

 

1. In a microwave-safe bowl, combine the water, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon white or brown sugar, cardamom, cinnamon, and apples. Cover and microwave on high for 5 minutes. Stir, return to microwave, and cook on high for 5 more minutes.

2. Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat until frothy. Add the bread crumbs, nuts, and remaining 1 tablespoon brown sugar, and fry until the crumbs are crisp, golden brown, and caramelized, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

3. Whip the cream and vanilla sugar together until stiff peaks form.

4. To assemble the dessert, place a layer of the crumbs in the bottom of dessert glasses. Top with a layer of apples, raspberry jam, and whipped cream; repeat the layers once.