Breakfast has traditionally been Dad’s domain. When I was growing up, my dad would get up early on Sunday mornings and whip up a batch of pancakes, French toast, or a monster omelet. He did this partly to give Mom some extra time to sleep and partly to show her that cooking ain’t so tough after all.
But preparing breakfast on a daily basis is another matter. It’s wonderful to start the day with a bowl of hot cereal or a warm muffin or scone with jam, but most of us don’t have time to eat breakfast, never mind make it. Nevertheless, breakfast is considered the most important meal of the day, capable of boosting energy and productivity in a big way.
Getting a healthful breakfast on the table every morning requires a combination of the microwave, a high flame under the omelet pan, some savvy shopping, and, sometimes, a few simple preparations the night before.
The egg you eat is one of about 250 that a poultry-farm chicken lays in a year, one of about 390 billion produced annually in the world. It weighs about 2 ounces and provides 6.5 grams of protein, which is about 13% of the recommended daily intake. It has 80 calories and healthy amounts of iron, phosphorus, and thiamine. The problem with the egg is that it is very high in cholesterol, all of which is contained in the yolk. To reduce cholesterol, try making your omelets with a combination of whole eggs and egg whites. Or serve your eggs “over easy,” but accompany them with a few slices of orange or melon instead of bacon or sausage, and spread the toast with “fruit-only” jam, not butter.
You could serve soft-boiled eggs in the shell, as the English prefer, but then you would need egg cups. A more down-home approach is to break the egg into a bowl with some bite-sized pieces of toast. This is especially good to serve the kids if they’re laid up with a sore throat and are having trouble swallowing.
Ingredients (serves two)
4 very fresh extra-large eggs
Equipment
Medium saucepan
Slotted spoon
1. Fill a medium saucepan ⅔ full with water and bring to a boil on high heat.
2. Reduce the heat to medium and gently lower the eggs into the water with a slotted spoon.
3. Simmer for 3 minutes for regular soft-boiled eggs, or for 4 minutes if you like the yolks a bit harder.
4. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon. Hold the hot eggs in a cloth or a doubled paper towel and gently crack the shell at the top with the back of a spoon. Peel away enough shell so you can ease the spoon into the egg. Scoop out the yolk and carefully scrape the white from the inside of the shell. Serve immediately with toast, as soft-boiled eggs cool quickly.
The secret is to get the pan nice and hot and to work quickly with the spatula.
Ingredients (serves four)
8 large eggs
1½ tablespoons butter or margarine
Equipment
Large nonstick sauté pan
Medium bowl
Whisk
Short spatula
1. Break the eggs into a medium bowl and beat with a whisk.
2. Put a large nonstick sauté pan on high heat and let it get hot, about 30 seconds.
3. Spread the butter or margarine around the pan. When it stops sizzling, pour in the eggs. Let the bottom set for about 10 seconds. Then, with the spatula, scrape the cooked eggs up from the bottom and stir them.
4. When the eggs are the consistency that you like, remove them from the pan (or they’ll keep cooking) and serve immediately.
Variations
If you want to add some pizzazz to your eggs but don’t want to make omelets, add any combination of the following to the beaten eggs and cook as above:
• Small pieces of ham or cooked bacon
• Grated cheese (cheddar, Swiss, Gruyère, feta, or any hard cheese)
• Bits of smoked salmon
• Any one of these fresh or dried herbs: oregano, basil, thyme, or chives
• Thin slices of salami, pastrami, or corned beef
• Sautéed chopped onion, mushrooms, bell pepper, or zucchini
To get eggs “over easy” without breaking the yolks, do what an experienced short-order cook does: Brush your spatula with a bit of oil, slip it under the frying eggs, and ease them over gently.
Ingredients (serves two)
1 tablespoon butter or margarine
4 large eggs
Equipment
Large frying pan
Spatula
1. Put a frying pan on high heat and let it get hot, about 30 seconds.
2. Spread the butter or margarine around the pan. When it stops sizzling, crack the eggs and open them just above the pan, easing the yolks onto the surface so they won’t break when they land.
3. Fry the eggs until the whites are set, about 2 minutes. If you want “sunny-side up” eggs, lower the heat to medium and cook for 1 minute more. For “over easy,” flip as described above and cook them for 30 seconds longer.
4. Use the spatula to carefully lift the eggs from the pan, as the yolks can still break. (If necessary, use the edge of the spatula to separate eggs that have run into each other while cooking.)
Tip
Put the bread in the toaster just after you begin to cook the eggs so the toast will be ready at the same time as the eggs.
Poaching is a cooking technique in which a food such as eggs, fruit, or poultry is cooked in liquid at or below the boiling point. Properly poached eggs on toast make an especially comforting breakfast. Serve these to Mom when she’s spending the morning in bed.
Ingredients (serves two)
1 tablespoon white or cider vinegar
4 very fresh large eggs
Equipment
Large, deep-sided frying pan
4 small bowls
Slotted spoon
1. Fill a large, deep-sided frying pan ⅔ full with cold water. Add the vinegar and bring to a boil on high heat.
2. While the water comes to a boil, break 1 egg into each of the 4 bowls, being careful not to break the yolks. If a yolk breaks, save the egg for something else and try another.
3. When the water boils, reduce the heat to medium so it is barely simmering. With a bowl tipped so that it’s touching the water, let the egg slide gently into the water. Repeat with the remaining eggs, working quickly so that all of the eggs will be done at the same time.
4. Let the eggs simmer for 3 minutes, until the whites begin to get firm. Gently spoon some of the water over the yolks so they warm through. If the water begins to boil rapidly, reduce the heat a bit. When done, carefully remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and serve over toast or an English muffin.
Great omelets depend as much on the proper proportion of eggs to the size of the pan as they do on the skill of the chef.
3 large eggs = 8-inch pan (for 1 person)
5 large eggs = 10-inch pan (for 2 people)
8 large eggs = 12-inch pan (for 3 people)
The omelet will not set correctly with too many eggs in the pan, too few and it will cook too quickly. It is always better to make more omelets than to try to overload the pan with too many eggs. And since the cooking time for omelets is only about a minute, once you get in the groove, you can start cranking them out.
Ingredients (makes one)
About ½ cup filling (see below)
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon butter or margarine
8-inch frying pan, preferably nonstick
Medium bowl
Whisk
Spatula
1. Prepare the filling (if desired) and set aside.
2. Gently beat the eggs with a whisk in a medium bowl.
3. Put a small, preferably nonstick, frying pan on high heat and let it get hot, about 30 seconds. Spread the butter or margarine around the pan. When it stops sizzling, pour the eggs in all at once. Let the bottom set, about 15 seconds.
4. Slip a spatula about a third of the way under one side of the omelet. Lift up that edge and tilt the pan toward it so the loose, uncooked egg on top runs toward the area of open pan. Continue until there is no more loose egg on top.
5. Quickly spread your filling down the middle of the eggs. Fold the thicker side of the omelet over the filling.
6. Take the pan to the serving plate and use the spatula to nudge the omelet onto the plate.
7. Wipe the pan clean with a cloth or paper towel and start again, if desired.
• Grated cheddar, Monterey Jack, mozzarella, Swiss, Gruyère, Edam, or Parmesan or softer cheeses, such as Gorgonzola or feta, cut into small pieces
• Ham, salami, or cooked bacon, cut into bite-sized pieces
• Chopped onion, bell pepper, mushrooms, tomato, scallions (all can or should be sautéed briefly first)
• Reheated leftover chili, or reheated refried beans, or tomato salsa (at room temperature)
• A sprinkling of any combination of fresh or dried herbs, such as oregano, parsley, basil, rosemary, or, separately, tarragon (about 1 teaspoon per 4 eggs)
Pancakes can range from the ridiculous to the sublime depending on who mixed the batter and who flipped the cakes. These are light and nutritious.
Ingredients (serves four)
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons wheat germ (optional)
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted and cooled, or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
Additional butter, margarine, or vegetable oil for cooking the pancakes
Pancake syrup, for serving
Equipment
Large frying pan or griddle
Medium bowl
Small bowl
Small pitcher (optional)
Whisk
Wooden spoon
Spatula
1. Using a whisk, mix together all the dry ingredients in a medium bowl.
2. Gently whisk together the egg, milk, melted butter or margarine (or vegetable oil), and vanilla in a small bowl.
3. Pour the wet stuff into the dry and stir with a wooden spoon until it is just combined. Do not overmix. At this point you may want to transfer the batter to a small pitcher so it will be easier to pour into the frying pan.
4. Put a large frying pan (or set your griddle) on high and let it get hot, about 30 seconds. Then reduce the heat to medium.
5. Spread about ½ tablespoon of butter or margarine around the pan. When it stops sizzling, pour the batter into the frying pan to the desired pancake size, as many as will fit without the edges touching.
6. Cook until craters just begin to form on top of the pancakes. Turn and cook for 1–2 minutes more for thin cakes, slightly longer for thicker ones. Serve immediately with butter or margarine and your favorite syrup.
Variations
Mix into the batter a cup of blueberries (fresh or frozen), thinly sliced strawberries, or diced peaches. Apples need to be thinly sliced and briefly sautéed before being added to the batter.
Slice a banana and, in a sauté pan set over medium heat, combine the slices with ⅓ cup real maple syrup. Cook just until warmed. Serve over the pancakes.
Tips
• Commercial pancake mixes found in supermarkets aren’t always great, but there are many mixes sold in country stores, at roadside stands, in health food stores (this is where you’ll find whole grain mixes), or through food catalogs that are quite wonderful. If you discover one you like, save time by keeping it on hand for a quick and easy pancake breakfast.
• If you have a crowd to feed and don’t want to start serving until you’ve made enough to go around, keep the cooked pancakes warm for a few minutes on a baking sheet in a 200°F oven.
• The first batch of pancakes may not turn out exactly right as the pan needs to reach the proper temperature. If your first pancakes took a lot longer to cook than the recipe indicated, raise the heat under the pan. Lower the heat if your first batch overcooked.
• You may not need to add any butter to the pan after cooking the first batch.
French toast was one of the few things my dad taught me to cook. With slight adjustments (he wasn’t hip to the vanilla), this is his recipe.
Ingredients (serves four)
6 large eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Splash of milk
Dash of cinnamon (optional)
8 slices of bread
1 teaspoon butter or margarine
Equipment
Large frying pan or griddle
Pie pan or wide bowl
Whisk
Spatula
1. In a wide bowl or pie pan, whisk together the eggs, vanilla, milk, and cinnamon (if using).
2. Dip each slice of bread into the egg mixture, turning a few times so the eggs soak into both sides of the bread.
3. Put a large frying pan (or set your griddle) on high heat for about 20 seconds, then reduce the heat to medium. (Unlike omelets, French toast needs to cook slowly.)
4. Add and swirl the butter or margarine around the pan. When it stops sizzling, add the bread. Cook for 3–4 minutes, until lightly browned. Turn and cook for 3–4 minutes more.
Tips
• Whole wheat bread works just as well as white bread and is more nutritious.
• For a variation, try French bread, cut diagonally into 1-inch-thick slices.
• For a real Ukrainian effect, try thickly sliced challah bread.
• If you’re not using presliced bread, cut it into 1-inch-thick slices for French toast.
• English muffins also make interesting French toast.
Some people think there is no better way to show their affection for a loved one than to appear at the bedroom door in the morning carrying a tray with freshly squeezed juice, hot coffee, and a sumptuous breakfast. Mother’s Day, birthday, anniversary—any morning you want to make that special someone feel like a million bucks.
With its elegant presentation and delectable flavors, this breakfast begs for Champagne.
Ingredients (serves two)
4 slices homestyle white bread
4 eggs
¼ pound smoked salmon, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons sour cream, at room temperature
2 ounces black caviar
Fresh fruit slices or whole berries
Equipment
Double boiler
Medium bowl
4-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter (optional)
Whisk
1. With a cookie cutter or a paring knife, cut and remove a heart shape from the center of each slice of bread. Discard the hearts or reserve for another purpose. Place the remaining bread in the center of two plates.
2. Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl. Stir in the smoked salmon.
3. Put 2 inches of water in the bottom of a double boiler. Put the butter in the top, and set the double boiler on medium heat. When the butter is melted, swirl it around to coat the pan, then add the eggs. Stir continuously with the whisk until the eggs are just about congealed, about 2½ minutes.
4. Remove the eggs from the heat and stir in the sour cream. Spoon a quarter of the eggs into each of the hearts. Top with the caviar and garnish the edge of the plates with alternating slices of fresh fruit or whole berries. Serve immediately.
For two mimosas, squeeze three fresh oranges. Fill half each Champagne flute with the orange juice, then add an equal amount of chilled Champagne.
With this special breakfast, serve a cup of café au lait. Brew the coffee as usual, only slightly stronger, and add a pinch of cinnamon to the grounds. At the same time, warm some milk in a small saucepan. Pour equal amounts of coffee and milk into each cup just before serving.
When I was a desultory lad of 22 and my grandfather was a vigorous codger of 91, I decided the best thing I could do was eat what he did. And one thing he ate every morning without fail was hot cereal.
Ingredients (makes one bowl)
⅓ cup old-fashioned rolled oats
¼ cup water
A bit of milk and brown sugar, maple syrup, or honey (optional)
Equipment
Microwave oven
Small microwave-safe bowl
1. Put the oatmeal and water in a microwave-safe bowl and cover loosely with plastic wrap.
2. Put the bowl in the microwave and cook on medium setting for 5–6 minutes. Mix well.
3. Add the milk and toppings of choice.
Variation
Mix in some fresh berries, banana slices, chopped apples, raisins, or flavored yogurt for the last 30 seconds of cooking.
This puffed pancake was one of the few foods my Dad made that we considered gourmet. It’s a foolproof, impressive recipe.
Ingredients (serves four)
6 large eggs
1½ cups milk
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter or margarine
Jam, syrup, or honey, for serving
Equipment
12-inch cast-iron or ovenproof skillet
Blender
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. In a blender on medium speed, mix together the eggs, milk, flour, granulated sugar, vanilla, and cinnamon, until just combined, about 15 seconds. The batter should be a bit lumpy.
3. Melt the butter or margarine in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet by putting it in the hot oven for about 30 seconds.
4. Remove the skillet from the oven, spread the butter to coat the bottom and sides of the skillet, and pour in the batter. Return the skillet to the center oven rack and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the pancake is puffed and lightly browned. (Do not check before 17 minutes have passed, and close the oven door slowly and carefully after checking.)
5. Cut into wedges and serve immediately with jam, syrup, or honey.
Variations
The puffed pancake is nice accompanied by fresh slices of fruit, such as apples, bananas, berries, or peaches. If you serve apples, sauté them in a tablespoon of butter over medium heat for a few minutes while the pancake is cooking.
Tips
• If the butter turns brown, it has burned and is unusable. Pour it out, wipe out your pan, and start again.
• The pan must be exactly 12 inches across or the pancake will not puff.
• If you don’t have a blender, use a hand mixer or whisk, or pulse briefly in a food processor.
Seen on antipasto tables in many trattorias, this classic Italian dish is like a quiche without the crust and cream—and it couldn’t be easier to make.
Ingredients (serves four)
8 large eggs
4 slices ham, prosciutto, Italian salami, or pepperoni
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 medium zucchini
1 red bell pepper
6 button or wild mushrooms
2 shallots or 1 small onion
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup grated cheddar cheese
Equipment
Large, nonstick frying pan with heatproof handle
Medium bowl
2 spatulas
12-inch serving plate (optional)
1. Preheat the broiler and arrange the rack in the lower third of the oven.
2. Lightly beat the eggs in a medium bowl. Cut up the meat into 1-inch pieces and add to the eggs with the oregano. Set aside.
3. Wash and dry the zucchini and bell pepper. Trim the ends of the zucchini, then cut it in half lengthwise, and cut the halves into ½-inch-thick slices. Core and seed the pepper and slice into ½-inch-wide strips. Cut these into 1-inch-long pieces. Slice the mushrooms thinly. Peel and cut the shallots or onion into thin slices.
4. Put a large nonstick frying pan with a heatproof handle on medium heat and let it get hot, about 30 seconds. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and the zucchini, bell pepper, mushrooms, and shallots. Sauté for 6 minutes, stirring often, until the vegetables are soft.
5. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the pan and spread it to coat the bottom. Pour the egg mixture into the pan. Mix in the grated cheese and cook, stirring often, until the bottom half of the frittata is firm. (The top should be loose.)
6. Remove the pan from the stove and place it on the lower rack in your hot oven. Broil for 3–5 minutes or until the frittata puffs and browns.
7. Remove the pan from the oven and let it cool for a minute to set.
8. Transfer the frittata from the pan to the serving plate with 2 spatulas or serve directly from the pan. (Use a hot pad to hold the skillet handle; it will remain hot for a long time.)
9. Cut the frittata into wedges and serve.
I’ve often ordered eggs or even a sirloin steak, just to have something to eat with my home fries.
Ingredients (serves four)
4 or 5 large potatoes (russet, red, or new potatoes)
1 medium onion, peeled and cut into thin matchlike strips
1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into thin matchlike strips
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons corn oil
1 teaspoon paprika
Salt and pepper
Equipment
Medium saucepan
Large nonstick frying pan
Colander
1. Cut the potatoes lengthwise into quarters. Cut the quarters into 1-inch-thick chunks, put them in a medium saucepan with just enough cold water to cover them. If using new potatoes, just cut them into quarters. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes. The potatoes should be slightly undercooked. Drain in a colander and set aside.
2. When the potatoes are cooked and drained, put a large nonstick frying pan on high heat and let it get hot, about 30 seconds. Reduce the heat to medium high, add the oil, onion, and bell pepper, and cook until the onion is soft, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more.
3. Add the potatoes. Cook for about 15 minutes, turning the potatoes frequently so that all sides get browned. Add the paprika and salt and pepper to taste.
4. Cook for 5 minutes more, until the potatoes are crisply browned.
Time-Saver
The potatoes can be boiled the night before. Just cover them tightly and refrigerate.
Tip
For crispier potatoes, omit the paprika and stir in another tablespoon of oil 10 minutes before they are finished cooking and then place a heavy, heatproof dinner plate or another frying pan directly on the potatoes.
Ingredients (makes 12 muffins)
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
¼ cup sugar
3 tablespoons wheat germ (optional)
½ teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1 cup milk
6 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing muffin tin.
Equipment
12-cup muffin tin
Small bowl
Medium bowl
Wooden spoon
Whisk
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2. Lightly grease a 12-cup muffin tin.
3. Mix the dry ingredients together in a medium bowl.
4. Gently whisk together the wet ingredients in a small bowl.
5. Pour the wet stuff into the dry. Stir with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are just combined. Do not overmix—the batter should be lumpy.
6. Spoon the batter into the muffin cups until each is ⅔ full.
7. Bake on the center oven rack for 20 minutes, or until the muffins are lightly browned and a cake tester inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean.
8. Let the muffins cool in the tin for at least 10 minutes before removing them.
Variations
• Add 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries, fresh cranberries, or chopped apple to the wet ingredients before mixing with the dry. Use muffin tin liners instead of greasing the tin when making muffins with fruit.
• Substitute 1 cup cornmeal for 1 cup of the unbleached flour. This is especially tasty with blueberries added to the batter as well, but be sure to use muffin tin liners.
• Substitute 1 cup rolled oats for 1 cup of the flour. In a small bowl, pour the milk over the oats and let them soak for 1 minute. Then add the oats and ½ cup raisins to the rest of the wet ingredients. Proceed as directed in Step 5.
Time-Saver
The easiest, fastest way to have freshly baked muffins in the morning is to assemble the ingredients the night before. Just mix together the dry ingredients in one bowl, and the wet in another. Cover both bowls tightly with plastic wrap; refrigerate the liquids. Combine the wet and dry ingredients first thing in the morning and bake as directed.
Coffee beans are brown in warm climates and high altitudes, in places like Africa, Jamaica, Brazil, and, of course, Juan Valdez’s home, Colombia. Different climates and soils produce beans with subtly different flavors and aromas. The beans are picked green, shipped to their destination, and then roasted, which turns them brown. The longer they are roasted, the darker and stronger the beans. French and Italian roasts, almost black in color, are two of the strongest-flavored beans and make rich, slightly harsh, but intensely flavored coffee. Viennese roast is light brown and produces milder, softer coffee with little aftertaste. There are many flavors in between. Often coffee emporiums sell what they call “house blends,” mixtures of strong and mild beans that produce coffee with richer, more complex flavor than coffee made from one kind of bean. You can have your beans ground at the store, but your coffee will taste best if you grind the beans as you need them in your own home coffee grinder. For simpler, everyday coffee, a can of already ground, dark-roasted coffee, such as El Pico or Bustelo, will do just fine.
But whatever kind you buy, the amount of coffee is the same: 1 coffee measure (2 tablespoons) for each 6-ounce cup of water. Brew coffee, using any of the three methods on the following page and you’re assured great results. Of course, the easiest way to make coffee is in an automatic drip machine. Simply follow instructions in the manual.
Manual Drip Method
(Beans should be ground medium fine.)
1. Bring a kettle of water just to the boiling point.
2. Fit a paper filter into the filter holder and measure the ground coffee into the filter.
3. Pour only a small amount of water into the filter to wet the sides of the paper and to just cover the grounds; let the water settle. Pour in the rest of the water very slowly, pausing to let it drip through.
4. Continue pouring water until the coffee has reached the desired level in the pot.
(Beans should be ground medium.)
1. Bring a kettle of water to a boil.
2. While the water is heating, remove the plunger from the glass pot and measure the ground coffee into the bottom.
3. Fill the pot with as much water as you need. Insert the plunger so that it rests just at the water level, and the lid fits on the top, creating a vacuum.
4. Wait 5 minutes, then push the plunger down slowly. The coffee is now ready to pour.
Espresso–Stovetop Method
(Beans should be ground extra-fine.)
1. Fill the bottom section of the espresso maker with cold water up to the level of the little escape valve on the side.
2. Fit the filter section into the bottom section and fill the filter to the top with coffee. (Do not pack the coffee in.)
3. Screw the top on tightly and set the espresso maker on medium heat. When the top section is filled with coffee and it starts sputtering, the espresso is done.
Devout coffee drinkers may find this hard to believe, but tea is actually the world’s most popular beverage. There are three main types of tea: black (the strongest flavored), green (an unfermented tea, with a mild, slightly bitter taste), and oolong (a subtle, delicate tasting tea). Herb teas are not made from tea leaves at all but are infusions of herbs, flowers, and spices.
To brew the perfect pot of tea, bring a kettle of cold water to a rolling boil. Warm a teapot by rinsing it out with hot water. Add 1 teaspoon of tea or 1 teabag per cup of water and “one for the pot.” Pour the boiling water over the tea and leave it to brew for 3 to 6 minutes. If using loose tea, pour through a strainer (to catch the tea leaves) into cups.
A simple bowl of yogurt and fruit or cereal is another quick and healthy way to start the day. And deciding what ingredients to mix in each morning’s bowl can be fun for the kids.
Ingredients
Granola or wheat germ
Nuts, raisins, sunflower seeds
Assorted fruits, such as bananas, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, pineapple, apples, or grapes
Plain or vanilla yogurt
1. Assemble the toppings in small bowls.
2. Spoon a cup of yogurt into a bowl for each person.
3. Let each person add the toppings of his or her choice.