In other times and other cultures women tended to the fire, but today in suburban America, Dad is often in charge of the charcoal. This chapter will expand your repertoire beyond hamburgers, hot dogs, and steak—to impressive fare like chicken saté and Asian swordfish.
You don’t need to spend a lot of money on a deluxe grill with fancy gadgets. A good, sturdy grill with a cover and rack that can be adjusted toward or away from the flame will do. It should be made of heat-resistant material that won’t rust if left in the rain (such as enameled steel, stainless steel, or treated cast-iron). Brands to look for are Weber, Sunbeam, and Kingsbord.
Consider your needs and the size of a grill: A small hibachi is fine for grilling a couple of pieces of chicken or a single steak. But if you’ve got a family of four or more, or plan on hosting outdoor functions, think about investing in a medium-sized or large grill.
Grill aficionados regularly debate the merits of charcoal vs. gas. The advantage of a gas grill that runs on bottled propane: it has an instant flame (though you have to wait for coals to heat), and you can control the strength of the flame during cooking. Though more convenient, a gas grill is a greater initial expense. Charcoal grills, on the other hand, have tradition as well as taste on their side, the charcoal imparting a slightly smoky flavor to the food. And with charcoal, there’s more hands-on connection to the process.
Though convenient, chemical starters are damaging to the environment and not recommended. Instead, use either an electric starter or a chimney. This cylinder of perforated metal makes lighting charcoal simple and fast. Place a loosely-crumpled sheet of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and pile the coals into the top. Light the paper. In about ten minutes the coals on top will be gray. Dump them into the grill.
If you really must use charcoal starter, first cover the bottom of the grill with a dense single layer of coals. Then arrange the briquets in a tight pyramid in the center of the grill. Squirt about ⅓ cup of fluid on the coals and let them soak for 2 minutes. Give one more quick squirt, then light the coals—from both sides so they’ll burn evenly.
Whichever method you use, you’ll know that the charcoals are lit when the edges of the individual briquets start turning gray. Let them heat in the pyramid for 30 minutes, then spread them out over the grill floor with a grilling fork or spatula. After spreading the coals, set the grilling rack in place and wait about 5 more minutes until the coals are about half gray. A single layer of briquets will give you 40–50 minutes of optimum heat.
Grilling is an inexact science, requiring ingenuity and improvisation. Fires invariably reach different temperatures, altering cooking times. In other words, you don’t just leave the chicken or burgers alone while you sip mint juleps with the guests. You have to be a “nudge” at the grill, regularly checking, turning, rotating, monitoring flareups, and basting. Because the heat is not uniform and certain areas of the grill are hotter than others, grilling requires constant adjustment. Even short distraction can mean the difference between succulent medium rare and dried out. Here are some tips to help with your grilling technique:
• Trim excess fat from all cuts of meat to reduce flareups.
• Have a table nearby to hold your spray bottle, platters, utensils, and a cold beer, so you’ll never have to leave the grill for any period of time.
• Make sure the coals are hot enough before you begin to barbecue. You shouldn’t be able to hold your hand 5 inches over the grill for more than 3 seconds.
• Determine your grill’s hot spots—for example, the center is usually hotter than the edges. Rotate the food around the grill so that the pieces cook evenly, which may mean moving each piece of food every few minutes.
• When you grill chicken, keep the dark meat around the hottest part of the grill and the white meat where it is less hot. This will help all of the chicken cook at the same rate.
• Always begin cooking bone-in chicken with the bone side down to keep the skin from burning.
• Designate one of the kids as chief assistant, responsible for all emergency runs into the house.
Always keep your grill in good working order. For gas grills, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning and maintenance. For charcoal grills, refer to the following tips:
• Clean out the ashes after every use. Make sure ashes have cooled completely, then tip the grill and pour the ashes into a garbage bag.
• Scrape the grill rack with a wire brush before and after each use to keep the grease from building up. If desired, clean the outside with warm, sudsy water. If you need to clean the inside, brush it down with the same brush you used to clean the grill.
• Always cover your grill when you’re finished using it. Top-grade grills won’t be bothered by a little rain, but it’s best to store your grill in the garage, or under a protected awning or grill tarp.
• Store the grill in the garage for the winter. If you must leave it outside, cover it with plastic. A painter’s plastic drop cloth does the trick nicely.
The flavor and tenderness of some cuts of beef, lamb, and poultry can be enhanced by letting them sit in a marinade for several hours in the refrigerator. Turn the meat 3 to 4 times so that all sides can absorb the marinade. If you are pressed for time, you can marinate at room temperature, which speeds up the process, but do not leave meat or fish out for more than 1 hour before you begin cooking it. Better cuts of meat, such as porterhouse and sirloin don’t need marinating. Chicken and pork can always do with a marinade to keep them from drying out. Fish or seafood should not be marinated for more than 2 hours as the flesh begins to break down. Thin fillets, such as sole and flounder, should not be marinated at all. Do not reuse the marinade the raw meat or fish was in—if you want to baste while grilling, set aside some marinade before you marinate the meat or fish.
1. Place the meat, chicken, or fish in a large plastic container or sealable plastic bag.
2. If you want to baste while cooking, set aside about ½ cup of the marinade. Pour the rest over the meat, chicken, or fish, turn it once so both sides are covered, cover the container, and refrigerate, turning occasionally.
3. After marinating, remove the meat, chicken, or fish from the marinade and place on the hot grill. Discard the marinade. About 5 minutes before the end of the cooking, brush the top of the meat, chicken, or fish with the reserved marinade and turn over. Cook for 1 minute, brush the other side, and turn over again. Continue cooking and turning every minute or so until the meat, chicken or fish is nicely glazed.
It would be nice if there were exact cooking times for the barbecue, but unfortunately, too many variables are involved in grilling. Besides, one person’s medium rare is another person’s “on the hoof.” Only you can cook your idea of the perfect steak. Nevertheless, keep these general hints in mind when you’re tending the grill:
• Keep a close eye on the food for doneness. An extra-hot fire can turn a medium-rare steak into a medium-well steak in an instant. It is best to use the professional chef’s method—pressing a finger into the meat—to gauge doneness. Remember that meat begins to get more taut as it cooks. Uncooked meat is soft and flabby while overdone meat is stiff and tough. In between, it has a kind of tight springiness. Poke a steak you’ve cooked to your liking to get a sense of how it feels for future reference. If absolutely necessary you can cut into a piece of meat to see if it is cooked, but remember that you will release some of the meat’s flavorful juices.
• When you’re figuring your cooking times, remember that meat and poultry continue to cook after they’re removed from the grill. A medium-rare steak will become almost medium by the time it reaches the table, so remove it from the grill accordingly.
• Do not judge whether your meat is cooked by how it looks on the outside. Meat and poultry can quickly char on the outside and remain uncooked on the inside. If necessary, douse the coals slightly to cool them down.
• The cooking times on the following page are educated ballpark figures. Your best gauge of doneness is an attentive eye and experience. If you like your meat more well-done than “medium,” just leave it on the grill a few minutes longer. Unless otherwise noted, times are given according to the thickness of the cut. The fire should be at its peak heat with the grill rack set 4–5 inches from the coals. If your rack is not adjustable, partially or fully cover the grill to slow cooking down.
The print edition of this book includes charts for Cooking Times.
Please download a PDF of the charts here: workman.com/ebookdownloads
Steaks
Hamburgers
Lamb Chops (Loin)
Pork Chops (Loin) Cook with the grill partially covered.
Chicken Cook 5–6 inches from coals (medium-high setting).
Fish Use a hinged wire grill basket for best results.
Basting sauces should be applied only during the last stages of grilling. The sauce does not actually add flavor to the meat itself, but forms a tasty coating over the meat. Sauces, especially those that contain sugar or honey, will burn if applied too early, diminishing the flavor of both the sauce and the meat.
This sauce is best for chicken, flank steak, ribs, or pork chops.
Ingredients (makes enough for 1 cut-up chicken or 2 pounds meat)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup ketchup
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon malt or cider vinegar
1 tablespoon molasses (or honey)
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
Dash of cayenne pepper
Equipment
Medium saucepan
Medium bowl
1. Place a saucepan on medium high until it gets hot, about 45 seconds. Add the oil and the onion and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for a minute more.
2. Transfer the onion and garlic to a medium bowl. Add the ketchup, mustard, honey, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, molasses, cinnamon, salt, and cayenne pepper, and mix well.
3. Pour over the meat.
This marinade is best for chicken and fish.
Ingredients (makes enough for 1 cut-up chicken or 2 pounds chicken or fish)
2 cups white wine
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
3 whole cloves garlic
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or 2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 2 teaspoons dried basil
½ teaspoon chopped fresh or dried rosemary
Equipment
Medium bowl
In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients. Pour over the meat.
This marinade is suitable for chicken, fatty fish, flank steak, ribs, or pork chops.
Ingredients (makes enough for 1 cut-up chicken or 2 pounds meat or fish)
¾ cup soy sauce
¾ cup white wine
¼ cup lemon juice
3 scallions, chopped
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon ground ginger
Equipment
Medium bowl
Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Pour over the meat.
As far as I’m concerned, grills were made for barbecuing chicken. This recipe will probably leave you with some leftovers to serve for lunch the next day.
Ingredients (serves four)
Dad’s Own Barbecue Sauce (page 247), for basting the chicken
2¾-pound chicken, cut into quarters
Equipment
Tongs
Barbecue brush
1. Light the charcoal. When the briquets are hot, place the chicken pieces on the grill, skin side up. Grill the chicken for 25 minutes, then turn and grill for 15 minutes more.
2. Baste the chicken with the barbecue sauce, turn, and grill for 3 minutes more, until the chicken begins to get dark brown. Baste again, turn, and grill for 3 minutes more. The skin should start getting very dark, but don’t let it burn.
Serving Suggestion
Serve with corn, coleslaw, thick crusty bread, and lots of extra sauce on the side (see Tips).
• Because the dark meat legs take longer to cook than the white meat breasts, arrange the legs in the center of the grill, where it is hotter, and place the breasts around them. If the breasts still finish cooking sooner than the legs, move them to the outer edge of the grill or transfer them to a platter and cover with foil.
• Larger chickens may need longer cooking times. To check for doneness, press down on the breast. If it is firm but springy, it is done. If it is very firm, it is overdone. If you’re not sure, cut into 1 of the breasts to see if the meat is white. To check the legs for doneness, prick the thigh area. If the juices run clear (not pink), they are done.
• After you have finished basting the chicken with the barbecue sauce, transfer the sauce to a small saucepan and simmer for several minutes. This is to kill any bacteria that may have been transferred while basting from the not-yet-fully-cooked chicken. Alternatively, make extra barbecue sauce for serving and discard the sauce used for basting.
Ribs are surprisingly easy to make; just remember to get them started early in the day so they have time to marinate. They take up a lot of room on the grill, so if you don’t have a large grill, be prepared to cook them in shifts.
Ingredients (serves four)
4 pounds country-style or baby-back pork ribs
1 large onion
3 whole cloves garlic
2 bay leaves
Double batch (about 3½ cups) Dad’s Own Barbecue Sauce (page 247) or favorite store-bought sauce
Equipment
Large pot
Colander
1 or more large plastic containers or stainless-steel bowls
Spray bottle or squirt gun
Barbecue brush
1. Trim away any excess fat from the ribs.
2. Because the ribs would burn and dry out if cooked solely on the grill, you want to parboil them first. Put the ribs in a large pot and add enough water to cover. Add the onion, whole cloves of garlic, and bay leaves, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour.
3. When the ribs are done simmering, drain them in a colander and place them in a large plastic container or stainless steel bowl. You may have to use more than 1 bowl or pan. Set aside ¾ cup of the barbecue sauce for basting. Pour the rest over the ribs, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
4. Light the charcoal. When the briquets are hot, place the ribs on the grill. Cook for 20 minutes, turning frequently. Keep your spray bottle or squirt gun handy as fat dripping from the ribs can cause small flareups. To control larger flareups, cover the grill for about 30 seconds.
5. Baste the ribs and continue cooking for 10 more minutes, turning and basting every couple of minutes.
Serving Suggestion
Serve hot with coleslaw, potato salad, corn bread, and lots of napkins.
Variation
Instead of parboiling the ribs before grilling them, you can bake them. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Arrange the ribs on a lightly oiled baking pan, cover the pan with foil, and bake them on the center rack of the oven—1 hour for country-style ribs, 45 minutes for baby backs.
Grilling on skewers is one of the oldest ways to cook and still one of the best. Here is a basic recipe, but feel free to improvise. Just about any meat or vegetable that fits on a skewer can be grilled.
Ingredients (serves four)
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup red wine or dry sherry
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried cumin
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
Freshly ground black pepper
1½ pounds lamb for shoulder or leg, cut into 1½-inch cubes
2 medium onions, cut into eighths
2 red or green bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1½-inch squares
Equipment
Large plastic container, stainless-steel bowl, or glass or enamel baking dish
Medium bowl
4 metal skewers
1. In a medium bowl, combine the olive oil, red wine or sherry, lemon juice, soy sauce, onion, garlic, cumin, rosemary, and pepper.
2. Arrange the cubed lamb in a large plastic container, stainless-steel bowl, or glass or enamel baking dish.
3. Set aside ½ cup of the marinade for basting. Pour the rest over the lamb, mix well, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Do not marinate the vegetables.
4. When the meat is ready, light the charcoal. While the coals are heating, assemble the skewers, alternating pieces of lamb with the onion and bell pepper.
5. When the coals are hot, cook the shish kebabs for 12–18 minutes, turning once after 7 minutes, until the meat is cooked through. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, baste the shish kebabs with the reserved marinade and turn the skewers frequently.
Serving Suggestion
Serve with rice pilaf and green salad.
Grilled vegetables make a colorful centerpiece when served on a platter or over rice. Many vegetables can be cooked on the grill right along with the main course. Others need to be skewered or cooked in a hinged grill. Vegetables must be cut specially to fit the skewers. The grill basket accommodates various sizes of vegetables, conveniently rests right on the barbecue grill, and can be turned easily for even cooking.
• Carrots Cut into 2-inch pieces for skewers, in half lengthwise for the grill basket. Blanch in a large pot of boiling water for 5 minutes and then refresh with cold water. Brush lightly with oil before grilling for 6–8 minutes, turning once.
• Cherry Tomatoes Marinate whole in vegetable oil along with ½ teaspoon each dried basil and dried rosemary. Place on a thin skewer and grill for 5 minutes, turning often.
• Corn To roast with foil, husk the ears and wrap them in foil. Place on the grill for 12 minutes, turning 3 or 4 times. To roast without foil, husk the ears and rub lightly with butter. Grill for 8–10 minutes, turning often until they begin to brown.
• Mushrooms Leave them whole, trimming only the bottom of the stem. Skewer through the stem with a thin metal or bamboo skewer, working slowly to keep the mushrooms from splitting, or place them in a hinged grill. Brush lightly with oil before grilling for 6–8 minutes, turning 3 or 4 times.
• Onions Peel a medium onion and cut it into quarters, then cut each quarter in half crosswise. Skewer across the grain or place in a grill basket. Brush lightly with oil before grilling for 10–12 minutes, turning 2 or 3 times.
• Bell Peppers Seed and cut into 2-inch squares for skewers, quarters for the grill basket. Brush lightly with oil before grilling for 8–10 minutes, turning 2 or 3 times.
• Potatoes Use small new potatoes whole or cut large potatoes into 1½-inch cubes. Put the potatoes in a pot and cover them with cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and let simmer until just barely cooked through, about 12 minutes. Immediately drain the potatoes and when they are cool enough to handle, place them on thin skewers or in a grill basket. Brush them lightly with oil before grilling for 10–12 minutes, turning 3 or 4 times.
• Summer Squash and Zucchini Cut into 1-inch rounds for skewers, halve lengthwise for a grill basket. Brush lightly with oil or Italian salad dressing before grilling for 6–8 minutes, turning 3 or 4 times. (Skewer the rounds through the skin and grill them with the cut sides on the rack.)
Tip
Vegetables that take approximately the same amount of time to cook can be skewered or arranged in a grill basket together.
Swordfish holds up well on the grill and is a nice change of pace from the usual barbecue fare. Marinate the steaks for no more than 2 hours and remove them from the grill when they are just cooked through and begin to flake.
Ingredients (serves four)
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons sherry or sake
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 clove garlic, mashed and chopped
1 teaspoon sugar
4 8-ounce swordfish steaks, 1–1½ inches thick
Vegetable oil, for brushing on the grill rack
Equipment
Large plastic container or glass baking dish
Medium bowl
Barbecue brush
Large spatula
1. In a medium bowl, combine the soy sauce, lemon juice, sherry or sake, sesame oil, garlic, and sugar, then pour it over the fish. Cover the fish with plastic wrap and marinate for at least 30 minutes and no more than 2 hours, turning once.
2. Lay the fish in a large plastic container or glass baking dish.
3. Brush the grill rack with vegetable oil, and light the coals. When the fire is very hot, lay the fish on the grill. Cook for about 5 minutes for 1-inch steaks, 6 minutes for 1½-inch steaks. Turn the fish carefully with a large spatula and grill until it begins to flake, about 5 minutes more.
Serving Suggestion
Serve with corn on the cob and rice.
An Indonesian specialty, these skewers of meat can be served as appetizers or a main course. The meat is cut into small pieces so it grills very quickly.
Ingredients (serves six as an appetizer, four as a main course)
½ medium onion, quartered
3 cloves garlic
1-inch piece lemon zest (yellow part of skin), finely chopped
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¼ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 pound boneless pork, cut into 1-inch cubes
OR
¾ pound skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into 2 x ½-inch strips
Peanut Dipping Sauce (recipe follows), for serving
Medium bowl
Blender or food processor
Approximately 24 bamboo or thin metal skewers
1. Put all the ingredients (through curry powder) in a blender or food processor and purée. Transfer to a medium bowl.
2. Add the pieces of pork or chicken to the marinade and stir to coat the meat uniformly. Marinate at room temperature for 1 hour or in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
3. If using bamboo skewers, soak them in warm water for 1 hour before grilling.
4. Light the charcoal. While the coals are heating, place 1 chicken strip or 2 pork cubes on each skewer (the skewer should be inserted through the chicken lengthwise).
5. When the coals are ready, place the meat on the grill for 6–8 minutes for chicken, 10–12 minutes for pork, turning once. Serve hot with peanut dipping sauce.
Note
To make beef saté, cut a ½-inch-thick piece of sirloin into 4- or 5-inch strips. Marinate and place on skewers. Grill for 8–10 minutes, turning once.
Serving Suggestion
Accompany with rice pilaf and a few skewers of grilled vegetables.
Ingredients
½ cup smooth “natural” peanut butter
¼ cup fresh lime juice
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon honey
½ teaspoon sesame oil
1 whole clove garlic
½ teaspoon ground coriander
Equipment
Food processor or blender
Place all the ingredients in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Serve at room temperature in individual dipping bowls.
The New York caterer Mary Cleaver is a wonderful chef who makes light and intensely flavored food. Here is one of her favorite dishes for marinated, grilled chicken. The marriage of a few simple yet bold flavors is typical of Mary’s food. I prepared this dish many times working in the Cleaver Co. kitchen and now make it for my family on our patio grill.
Ingredients (serves four)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
4 cloves garlic, peeled and mashed
2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried
Freshly ground black pepper
2 whole boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut in half
Equipment
Small bowl
Plastic container or stainless steel or ceramic bowl
Grill
1. Combine the oil, vinegar, garlic, rosemary, and pepper in a small bowl.
2. Rinse the chicken breasts in cold water and pat them dry. Place the chicken in a plastic container or stainless steel or ceramic bowl just large enough to hold them and pour on the marinade. Turn the chicken breasts to coat both sides with marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours and up to 24 hours.
3. Light the coals in the grill. When they are hot, place the chicken breasts on the rack and grill for 4–5 minutes. Turn the chicken, basting it with the marinade, and grill for 4–5 minutes more, until cooked through.
Serving Suggestion
Boneless breasts don’t take up much room on the grill, so plan on grilling an assortment of skewered vegetables, such as bell peppers, tomatoes, and onions right alongside.