Explore Yellowstone & Grand Teton
BEST OF YELLOWSTONE AND GRAND TETON
CAMPING AND HIKING IN THE TETONS
If ever a place deserved the term “Wonderland,” it would have to be the northwest corner of Wyoming. In this spectacularly scenic region lies the world’s oldest national park—Yellowstone—along with one of the most stunning mountainscapes on the planet, Grand Teton National Park. Jackson Hole is a prosperous and bustling center for recreation and commerce; it’s one of the most popular vacation destinations in North America. Beyond these three renowned areas are a wealth of attractions to please those who love the great outdoors and the West, including a world-class museum complex in Cody, gorgeous badlands topography near the Old West town of Dubois, and several delightful mountain settlements surrounding Yellowstone National Park. The region attracts more than three million visitors each year from around the globe.
The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is a mountainous region bisected by the Continental Divide. Several peaks—including Grand Teton—top 13,000 feet. Powerful geological forces crafted this landscape; their energy is especially visible in Yellowstone. The park sits atop a geologic hotspot that caused three stupendous volcanic eruptions in the last two million years, covering thousands of square miles with ash and affecting the global climate for years thereafter. There’s no evidence that it will erupt anytime soon, but the heat from this seething cauldron creates the geysers, hot springs, and fumaroles for which Yellowstone is famous. Despite all this heat, ice and water have also played important roles: Glaciers carved out valleys such as Jackson Hole, and rivers eroded the colorful Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.
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The Teton Range provides an incredible skyline that rises abruptly above Jackson Hole, a relatively flat basin through which the Snake River flows. In summer, the sagebrush flats are a garden of flowers set against the mountain backdrop. Autumn turns the cottonwoods and aspens into swaths of yellow and orange, and winter transforms everything a glorious, sparkling white.
With activities ranging from mountain biking to river rafting to gourmet dining, it’s impossible to be bored here. The country is so beautiful that you may just want to kick back, tip back your new cowboy hat, and sip a Teton Ale while taking it all in. Welcome to one of the world’s great wonderlands. You may never want to go home.
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Yellowstone’s famed Old Faithful has predictable eruptions that delight crowds every 90 minutes or so, while Mammoth Hot Springs features an ever-changing palette of pastel-colored springs. Bucolic Lamar Valley in the northeast corner is the best place to see wolves and other wildlife. Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone may be the park’s most spectacular feature, with the river plummeting 308 feet over Lower Falls. South of here is Yellowstone Lake, the largest high-elevation lake in North America.
Capped by 13,772-foot Grand Teton, the Teton Range rises abruptly from the valley floor, with the Snake River winding sinuously beneath ragged peaks. Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center provides a great introduction to the park. Three of the most picturesque areas are Jenny Lake, the old barns of Mormon Row, and Jackson Lake for fishing and boating.
Wyoming’s preeminent tourist town, trendy Jackson occupies the southern end of the valley called Jackson Hole. Four arches created from hundreds of elk antlers frame Town Square, host to faux shoot-outs and farmers’ markets all summer. Jackson is crowded with dozens of galleries, and the National Museum of Wildlife Art is just north of town. Winter sleigh rides draw visitors to the National Elk Refuge, while skiers challenge the slopes of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. All sorts of summer fun fill the calendar, from river rafting to classical music.
rafting on the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park
The Montana towns of West Yellowstone, Gardiner, Cooke City, and Silver Gate border Yellowstone, and visitors use them as bases for park explorations. The Wyoming towns of Cody and Dubois, east and southeast respectively from Yellowstone, are close enough for a long day trip into the park. Cody is home to both the acclaimed Buffalo Bill Historical Center and the Cody Nite Rodeo, with scenic Wapiti Valley to the west.
Yellowstone summers start late, in June, and are relatively short. The vast majority of visitors to Yellowstone and Grand Teton arrive in the hectic months of July and August, when the snows are gone, temperatures are warm, skies are often clear, local businesses and attractions are all open, and wildlife are readily visible. Anyone arriving at other times may find closed facilities and campgrounds, along with minimal Park Service staffing.
Fall is a favorite time to visit the parks. The crowds have diminished, most businesses and campgrounds are still open, and on crisp mornings the air is filled with the bugling of elk. Temperatures drop as fall progresses and the snow gradually moves down the mountains; most Yellowstone National Park roads are closed by early November.
Yellowstone winters are cold, snowy, and starkly beautiful. Park access is by snowcoach or guided snowmobile. Jackson Hole is a major winter destination, with three ski resorts and a wide range of winter activities. West Yellowstone is popular with snowmobilers and cross-country skiers, while Gardiner serves as a base for wolf-watchers.
If you’re looking for peace and quiet, head to Yellowstone and Grand Teton in the spring. Snow covers the high country through June on the peaks, and the landscape may be shades of gray and brown before things green up, but you’ll find friendly locals not yet overwhelmed by the summer onslaught.
Entrance to Yellowstone costs $25 per vehicle ($12 by bicycle, foot, skis, or bus). The pass includes entrance to both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks for seven days. For longer stays, an annual pass ($50) covers both parks, and the Interagency Annual Pass ($80 per year) is good for all national parks.
Most roads in Yellowstone close on the Monday after the first Sunday in November and usually open again by mid-May. Only the road between Mammoth and Cooke City is kept plowed all winter. Plowing begins in early March, with the roads connecting Mammoth to West Yellowstone opening first (typically mid-Apr.). Most campgrounds and visitor centers are open May-September.
Schwabacher Landing along the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park
• ONE DAY: Visit Yellowstone National Park.
• TWO DAYS: Add Grand Teton National Park.
• THREE DAYS: Add Jackson.
• ONE WEEK: Add Cody.
• TWO WEEKS: Add West Yellowstone, Cooke City, or Dubois.
The vast majority of visitors arrive by car, though there are daily flights into Jackson from many major cities. You can also fly into a regional airport such as Salt Lake City, Utah, or Billings, Montana, and rent a car. Buses and vans provide connections between Jackson Hole and Salt Lake City. Most national chains offer car rentals in Jackson, with fewer options in the towns of Cody and West Yellowstone. Public transportation within the parks is nonexistent.
Lodging reservations are highly recommended for midsummer travel throughout the region, especially over holiday weekends. Reserve well ahead of your trip for the best options. Winters can also be busy, particularly in Jackson over the Christmas through New Year’s holiday period. Some of the most in-demand lodges fill months ahead of time.
This summertime trip provides a wonderful introduction to the region, starting in Jackson Hole and taking in the popular town sights before heading north into Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. Jackson is accessible by nonstop flights from Denver and Salt Lake City, and car rentals are available at the airport.
Fly or drive in to the bustling town of Jackson and you’ll quickly see why it’s such a popular destination. Stop by the sod-roofed Jackson Hole & Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center for a plethora of brochures and a helpful staff to answer your questions. You can’t miss shady Town Square with its four elk-antler arches, but you may need to park in the big lot a couple of blocks to the north. Evening shoot-outs are a summer favorite activity, and several dozen art galleries (and many other businesses) fill nearby shops. Just north of town is the outstanding National Museum of Wildlife Art. Downtown, travelers will find an amazing variety of dining choices. For dinner and a great beer, join the throngs at Snake River Brewing Company. Don’t miss the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar with its saddle barstools and nightly country-and-western bands.
Drive north into Grand Teton National Park to take in the mountain vistas and explore a few of the sights. Stop first at the Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center for an orientation to the park and its history. For a great half-day adventure, book an easy float or rollicking whitewater raft trip down the Snake River; a dozen local companies offer trips. You can also rent a bike and head up the paved bike path to Jenny Lake, a wonderful jumping-off point for hikes. Spend the night at a park campground (Jenny Lake is especially notable) or at Jenny Lake Lodge.
historic ranch near Jackson
Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone
The three most popular attractions in Yellowstone are Old Faithful, Mammoth Hot Springs, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. One could easily spend a full day in each of these areas, but it is possible to make quick visits to all three while circling through the park. The following itinerary assumes you are coming in from West Yellowstone. Get an early start, since you’ll need to cover a lot of ground.
Old Faithful: Your first stop will be the world’s best-known geyser, which erupts approximately every 90 minutes. Drop by the visitor center to see the next predicted eruption and to learn about the natural world. Paved paths lead to nearby geysers, hot springs, and other features. Several interesting buildings are in the area, most notably Old Faithful Inn, built more than a century ago and still one of the largest log structures in the world.
Mammoth Hot Springs: Drive north from Old Faithful Geyser, stopping briefly to see the colorful bubbling mud and active small geysers at Fountain Paint Pot. You might also have time for fascinating Norris Geyser Basin, the hottest such basin in North America. When you reach Mammoth Hot Springs, take a quick tour of Albright Visitor Center, then turn your car east for the drive to Tower Fall, where a steep trail leads 0.5 mile downhill to the base of this pretty waterfall.
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone: The road south from Tower Fall crosses 8,859-foot Dunraven Pass before dropping to this spectacular canyon. The most famous vista point (don’t miss this one) is Artist Point on the south side, but others on both sides provide more options, including a steep trail that leads to the top of Lower Falls (twice the height of Niagara Falls).
Now it’s time to circle back to your starting point. If it’s already late in the day, drive directly back to West Yellowstone via Norris and Madison, but if there are still a couple of hours of daylight, continue south to Yellowstone Lake for a big dinner or sunset drink at the historic Lake Yellowstone Hotel before continuing on to the town of West Yellowstone.
This is a day to explore Grand Teton. Starting from Jenny Lake, take the park road north to Jackson Lake. Stops along the road include the photo-perfect barns of Mormon Row, and spectacular turnouts facing the Tetons, including Snake River Overlook (where Ansel Adams took his famous photo) and the view at Oxbow Bend, a great place to look for wildlife. At Jackson Lake, Colter Bay Marina offers scenic cruises, boat and kayak rentals, and guided fishing on this large reservoir. Not far away is grandiose Jackson Lake Lodge, built at the behest of John D. Rockefeller (who also played a big role in establishing Grand Teton National Park), where you will spend the night. A nice evening drive is the winding road to the 7,593-foot summit of Signal Mountain, where the panorama encompasses the majestic Teton Range, Jackson Lake, Snake River, and the long valley called Jackson Hole.
Spend today exploring Yellowstone by driving north to West Thumb, where you may want to stop for a brief look at the hot springs and other features before turning west to visit famous Old Faithful Geyser and the Upper Geyser Basin area. Be sure to take time to wander around majestic Old Faithful Inn and the modern Old Faithful Visitor Education Center. It will probably be mid-afternoon by this point. There’s no camping at Old Faithful, but excellent lodging options are available at Old Faithful Inn or Old Faithful Lodge.
Another full day in Yellowstone begins by heading north from Old Faithful to Norris Geyser Basin. Take in the Back Basin loop to see if Echinus Geyser is active, or head down Porcelain Basin to enjoy the ever-changing colors. Continue on to Mammoth Hot Springs and stroll the boardwalks at the colorful terraces, check out historical photos in the visitor center, and get lunch inside the hotel. In the afternoon, drive to Roosevelt Lodge, where cabins and delightful Old West cookouts are available (book in advance). Take an evening drive into nearby Lamar Valley, one of the finest places for wildlife-viewing. Wolves and bison populate this scenic corner of Yellowstone.
A few miles south of Roosevelt Lodge is Tower Fall, a dramatic 132-foot waterfall. Farther south, the road winds over Dunraven Pass, where Mount Washburn trails are popular in late summer. Be sure to take time to explore Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, with its spectacular waterfalls and multihued canyon walls. An evening hike along one of the rim trails is a great way to end the day. Lodging and campsites are available in Canyon Village; Dunraven Lodge is the nicest.
Drive south through lush Hayden Valley (pull out your binoculars to glass for bears or wolves) to Yellowstone Lake. Spend your final day in the park exploring the Yellowstone Lake area, where you can take a one-hour boat cruise and enjoy lunch at historic Lake Yellowstone Hotel. From here, it’s a leisurely three-hour drive south to your starting point in Jackson Hole.
Yellowstone and Grand Teton provide world-class opportunities to see wildlife, and many visitors consider the chance to see bison, elk, wolves, bears, moose, and other large mammals the highlight of their trips. Early morning and early evening usually provide the best wildlife-viewing opportunities in the summer. At other times of the year, the animals tend to be equally visible in the middle of the day. Bring a pair of binoculars and telephoto lenses for a close-up view, but make sure your behavior isn’t disturbing the animal or causing it to move away. Check with Yellowstone and Grand Teton visitor centers for details on recent wildlife sightings and handouts showing where you’re most likely to find them. Below are a few of the best spots.
Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks attract millions of visitors annually. Yet despite the crowds, it can be surprisingly easy to escape to the natural world. Here are a few ways to have the parks to yourself.
Beartooth Pass, near Cooke City
• Visit in the off-season, especially autumn. Fall colors come late to the region, typically peaking the first week of October. The town of Jackson is still busy, but it’s much quieter than in midsummer. Lodging rates are lower, the elk are bugling, and hiking trails are uncrowded.
• The 10,947-foot Beartooth Pass cuts through a wide-open landscape northeast of Yellowstone, with knife-edged peaks, alpine lakes, pretty campgrounds, and miles of hiking trails.
• The Heart Mountain Interpretive Center, north of Cody, commemorates the thousands of Japanese Americans who were incarcerated here during World War II.
• The 15-mile River Road provides an alternate route through the sagebrush of Grand Teton National Park, and is a good place to see elk in the fall.
• Take the dirt road into Whiskey Basin to find herds of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in winter and spring.
• The mostly gravel road into Gros Ventre Valley, east of Kelly, extends 30 miles into red-rock badlands.
• Take a backcountry hike to two of the wildest parts of Yellowstone: the Bechler River area and the Thorofare region.
• Directly behind Old Faithful, Observation Point Loop Trail climbs up Geyser Hill, offering a view over the entire area.
• Most folks just ride up the popular tram at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and then head back down, but several excellent alpine trails fan out from here for short hikes or multi-night wilderness treks.
• In winter, book a trip with Yellowstone Expeditions to a rustic tent cabin along Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, where you can explore by ski or snowshoe.
• An hour southeast of Jackson, Granite Hot Springs is a delightful spot for a soak.
Despite the crowds of people at this popular corner of the park, Mammoth is also a good place to find wild animals. Elk are almost always somewhere in the area, particularly in the fall, when the males’ bugling keeps hotel guests awake at night. Pronghorn antelope are fairly common, particularly along the one-way Old Gardiner Road, and bighorn sheep are often seen on steep hillsides between Mammoth and Gardiner. Look for moose in the Willow Park area 10 miles south of Mammoth, especially in the fall.
In the remote northeast corner of Yellowstone, Lamar Valley is a great place to look for wildlife of all types, from the ubiquitous ground squirrels to an occasional grizzly. Elk, pronghorn antelope, and large herds of bison are commonly seen, and coyotes are often sighted, but the main attraction is wolves. Several wolf packs occupy this area, and wolf aficionados hang out on nearby slopes for a glimpse of them. You can rent a spotting scope in Silver Gate, just outside the park’s northeast boundary.
This lovely open valley south of Canyon is a mix of grasses and sage, with occasional lodgepole pines. It’s a great place to see grazing bison and elk, plus the occasional grizzly, especially on the east side of the valley. Waterfowl, including Canada geese, trumpeter swans, pelicans, and many kinds of ducks, are plentiful in marshes and along the Yellowstone River. Stop at LeHardys Rapids in June and July to see spawning cutthroat trout.
Elk and bison are almost always visible near Old Faithful and in other parts of the Upper Geyser Basin, and the slow-moving bison often create traffic jams when they decide to use the main roads as trails. In the winter, this is a great place to watch bison plowing snow with their massive heads to get at the vegetation beneath. Both elk and bison spend considerable time along the Firehole River and in the hot springs areas to stay warm when temperatures plummet.
Near Moran Junction, this slow-moving loop off the Snake River is a great place to watch for swimming beavers, muskrats, and river otters, or for moose browsing on willows along the shore. Also keep your eyes open for birds—bald eagles, white pelicans, ospreys, and others. The best times to see animals are in the early morning and at dusk. Rent a canoe from Dornan’s in Moose to paddle around Oxbow Bend. Another excellent place to scan for moose and elk is Willow Flats, a marshy area just up from Jackson Lake Dam.
This part of the park is best known for the photo-friendly barns backdropped by the Tetons, but you will often find a herd of bison in the open country nearby. The back roads connecting Mormon Row with Kelly are excellent places to find pronghorn antelope.
bighorn sheep
This scenic road follows a beautiful sagebrush-covered plateau with stands of lodgepole pines and aspens. Pronghorn antelope and Uinta ground squirrels are here, along with elk (especially in the fall) and some bison.
Southwest of the visitor center is the narrow and winding Moose-Wilson Road (not for RVs), where you may encounter moose, mule deer, or an occasional black bear.
In the summer this is a good place to see trumpeter swans, particularly near the Jackson Hole Visitor Center. You may see elk and other animals in the summer here, but winter is the main attraction, with horse-drawn sleighs carrying visitors among thousands of elk on the feeding grounds.
This five-day tour is perfect for families and those who prefer to camp in the great outdoors. Jackson Hole and the Grand Tetons have a wonderful diversity of day hikes as well as backcountry adventures. Most campgrounds are open May-September; advance reservations are recommended.
Choose from five campgrounds within Grand Teton National Park or several others in nearby Bridger-Teton National Forest. A quiet, out-of-the-way choice is Gros Ventre Campground in the park, but many visitors prefer Jenny Lake Campground for its central location and wonderfully scenic setting. Once you’re set up, drive to the park’s Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center for details on the park, maps, brochures, and guidebooks. Just across the river in Moose are several Dornan’s shops, offering groceries, wine, inexpensive meals, and outdoor gear, including bike and canoe rentals. Stop off at pretty Chapel of the Transfiguration and explore the 0.5-mile Menor’s Ferry Trail before returning to your campsite.
Spend today hiking into the Tetons. Many short—and long—hikes are available including one of the most popular, to Inspiration Point. This one begins with a shuttle boat ride across Jenny Lake. It’s a 0.5-mile hike to Hidden Falls, followed by another steep 0.5-mile climb to the top of a 400-foot hill overlooking the lake. From there, paths continue to nearby lakes or high into the Tetons.
Head north from Jenny Lake and take a side road to Signal Mountain, with its panoramic vistas across Jackson Hole and the Tetons. Continue on to Jackson Lake, where a myriad of boating and fishing options await. Stop in at the Colter Bay Visitor Center for a trail map and escape the summertime crowds, looking for moose and trumpeter swans instead. South on U.S. Highway 26/89/191, pull off for the view at Oxbow Bend. Beyond this are the old Cunningham Cabin and a couple of spectacular turnouts facing the Tetons. A gravel road drops down to Schwabacher Landing, popular with photographers at dawn and dusk. Return to Jenny Lake where you began the day.
Spend today playing in the town of Jackson. Directly behind Jackson is Snow King Resort, with a summertime lift that’s great for hikers and mountain bikers, plus a kids-love-it alpine slide. Twice-weekly rodeos are another favorite family activity, as are evening “shoot-outs” on Town Square. Take the scenic route back to Jenny Lake by driving to Teton Village to check out the activities, including hourly horseback rides, an all-summer classical music series, a pop-jet fountain, and jaw-dropping tram rides to the summit of 10,450-foot Rendezvous Mountain. Narrow and winding Moose-Wilson Road continues north from here into the park, providing potential hikes along the way and an opportunity to visit the eco-friendly Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center.
Four days have barely scratched the surface of this fascinating and scenic place. You may want to return to a spot you missed, or check out something different such as Granite Hot Springs or Teton Pass for some high-country hiking on the Black Canyon Overlook Trail, or head back into Jackson for a day of shopping and play.
Winter transforms the Greater Yellowstone region into a wonderland of snow and ice. Here are a few wintertime favorites.
• Downhill skiing and snowboarding at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Snow King, or Grand Targhee
• Exploring groomed cross-country ski trails in Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Hole, and West Yellowstone
• Taking a sleigh ride among the elk on the National Elk Refuge
• Snowmobiling from West Yellowstone or joining a guided snowmobile trip into Yellowstone
• Taking a snowcoach into Yellowstone National Park
• Riding with veteran dog mushers on a dogsled ride to Granite Hot Springs
• Joining a Rendezvous Backcountry Tours ski trek to a remote yurt on Teton Pass
• Skating on ice rinks around Jackson or taking in a Jackson Hole Moose hockey game
• Strapping on a pair of snowshoes to explore Grand Teton National Park trails
• Having a blast with your kids on the tubing hills at Grand Targhee and Snow King
• Climbing the ice waterfall at Teton Ice Park at Snow King or the natural versions near Cody
• Kicking out the jams with two-steppers at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar in Jackson after a big day of outdoor fun
