Explore Mount Rushmore & the Black Hills
Carved into the side of a mountain, four U.S. presidents gaze placidly over the hills, over the pine forest and into the distance of the vast plains to the south. This is Mount Rushmore, one of America’s most recognizable monuments. Admire its scope, scale, and artistry of the monument; then turn around and discover the breathtaking beauty of the Black Hills.
I am a road warrior by nature and it was on such a journey, drifting east across the plains of Colorado and north through the sandhills of Nebraska, that I crossed the state line into South Dakota for the first time. I was looking to visit a place I’d never been. I was looking for gas. What I found was a landscape that captured my heart.
The change from plains to hills is a subtle one. Miles of flatland transform into rolling swells of sparsely covered sand. One sharp incline and the view to the south is suddenly vast, empty, and as calming as staring out to sea. To the north, the soft hills are covered in dark ponderosa pine, the canyons are red, and the sky is an azure blue. This edge — this meeting of two worlds, the best of everything — is what the hills are all about. Farmland turns into ranchland here. Warm springs flow into cold rivers. Eastern birds and western birds mingle. Just 100 miles from north to south, and 65 miles from east to west, this “Island in the Plains” offers a remarkable diversity of landscape, wildlife, history, and recreation.
The broad western horizons and plains vistas create a space where storms are visible for miles before they arrive. Lightning streaks sideways across the sky and rain falls but never reaches the earth. Electric summer afternoon clouds crack open and pour white beads of hail over the grasslands, striking with just enough power to release the prairie scent of sage.
This is not a harsh country, though. The Black Hills are old and round and soft. Home to the American bison, this is a land sacred to Native Americans. Its history is steeped in gold, greed, gambling, gunfights, and broken treaties. It is a land of homesteading and healing waters.
Bestowed with great natural beauty, it has always been a beloved road trip destination. Remnants of the 1950s’ love affair with the auto-mobile remain. Look for old hotels and diners that sport neon signs with names like the Rocket Motel. Roadside attractions abound. Pan for gold, visit a vineyard, pet wild burros, or watch a rodeo. Bike, boat, ride a horse, or explore a cave. Hike the highest peak in North America east of the Rockies, or relax in the warm springs of a spa town. It’s all here.
Mount Rushmore is a symbol of American exploration and expansion, a testimony to the visionary dreams of our founding fathers, and a tribute to individual effort and collective achievement. It’s also at the heart of local tourism. Served by urban and transportation center Rapid City and supported by the old mining communities of Hill City and Keystone, this mountainous region is the hub of a Black Hills visit.
It’s all about wildlife, warm water, and history in the soft rolling landscape of the Southern Hills. Custer State Park provides the best wildlife-viewing opportunities in the state, with accommodations that range from rustic to luxurious. Hot Springs originated as a place to travel to “take the cure” in the warm mineral springs that gave the town its name. It’s also home to beautiful sandstone buildings and the Mammoth Site. Wind Cave and Jewel Cave are both in this region, and Custer, where gold was first discovered in the hills, provides easy access to all of the Southern Hills attractions, including the ongoing mountain carving of Crazy Horse, which honors the famous chief and the Lakota people who hold the Black Hills sacred.
Outdoor beauty and recreational opportunities grace every corner of the hills, and the northern region is no exception. Waterfalls, hiking, and biking trails abound in the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway, which connects the old mining communities of Spearfish and Lead. But the definition of wildlife is a little more expansive here. Once the stomping grounds of the likes of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane, this is a place where the raucous spirit of the Wild West flourishes. Gambling, gunfights, and rodeos set the ever active stage in Deadwood, and the roaring bikes of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally guarantee that the lights are always on in the Northern Hills.
Set in the midst of the vast plains, a wall of tall spires, flat-topped grassy buttes, and craggy eroding cliffs present an otherworldly landscape to visitors. Some 70 million years of environmental change are exposed to the eye, a product of the relentless and creative forces of wind and water. Each layer of time is different in color. When the sun is just right, the landscape of Badlands National Park turns into a wonderland of pastel yellow, dusty pink, burgundy, grey, green, and black. The town of Wall is the northern gateway to the park and home to Wall Drug, the ultimate roadside attraction. The South Unit of the park is located on the Pine Ridge Reservation, home to the Oglala Lakota people. The reservation offers recreational opportunities, art galleries, and historic sites for visitors interested in Lakota culture.
National monuments and national parks (including Mount Rushmore) are open year-round. In old-fashioned vacation style, the Black Hills of South Dakota are fully open and ready for business between Memorial Day and Labor Day, which constitutes the high season for tourism. In the “shoulder season” (May 1–Memorial Day and Labor Day–mid-Oct.), most attractions are open and there is still plenty to do. If the purpose of your visit is primarily scenic and recreational in nature, there are hotels open year-round in every region.
The weather in the hills is unpredictable, but spring is the season during which cooler temperatures and rain are most likely. It is also the season when the region is at its greenest. Early summer tends to be warm and dry, and brief afternoon thundershowers are not uncommon. Mid- and late summer can be anywhere from comfortable to extremely hot, and temperatures vary greatly between the warmer Southern Hills and the cooler mountain towns. For travelers not tied to a school schedule, early fall can be the best season to travel, with warm days and cool nights. It is my favorite season here.
The Sturgis Motorcycle Rally begins on the first Saturday in August, and lasts a week. During the rally, hundreds of thousands of bikers flock to the hills and fill the campgrounds and hotels. Traffic congestion in the parks and on the roads is common during the rally and room rates are at their highest. For some, it’s the perfect week to come, but if the constant roar of motorcycles is not for you, it might be a week to avoid. If you’ve come to the hills inadvertently during the rally, rooms are generally available and the environment is a little quieter in the Southern Hills, particularly in Hot Springs.
It is always possible to find rooms in the hills, with the probable exception of the Northern Hills during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. If you desire to stay in the Custer State Park cabins or lodges during peak summer season, however, reservations are recommended—particularly if your heart is set on a specific lodge.
Reservations are also recommended if you are traveling with children who might be interested in digging for mammoth bones. The programs at the Mammoth Site in Hot Springs are very popular.
It’s a good idea to check the websites of the governmental agencies that manage the public lands in the Black Hills. The National Park Service, the U.S. Forest Service, and the South Dakota Department of Game, Fish and Parks each sponsor summer activities and generally post information on summer happenings beginning in late spring. If you happen to be here during a full moon, for example, you won’t want to miss a midnight hike in the Badlands.
Getting around the hills is not difficult, but if you didn’t arrive by car, and don’t mind driving, plan on renting one. There are many tour companies that provide day trips into each region of the hills, but more options are available if you drive. There are many small airports in the region, but the only commercial airport is in Rapid City.
Be prepared for unpredictable weather in the Black Hills. While summers are generally pleasant and dry, temperatures can soar to over 100°F by afternoon and fall to 50°F in the evening. Caves maintain a temperature hovering in the mid-50s no matter the outside temperature. Wind on the plains can be brisk and strong. Given these weather possibilities, be sure to think in layers when you pack. Cotton T-shirts work well on hot afternoons, and can be layered with a long-sleeved shirt in the evening. Bring a windbreaker and pack a sweatshirt for cave tours and cool evenings. Layers are also key to comfortable hiking. Be prepared for afternoon thundershowers and bring raingear. Even the shortest of hikes can be hard on the feet, and this is especially true in the Badlands. Bring sturdy, ankle-supporting footgear. Another must is sunscreen and sunglasses. And don’t forget binoculars. While a bathing suit might seem out of place in this landlocked region, many lodgings feature outdoor hot tubs, a very relaxing way to end a day, and there are many small lakes for swimming.
Dress is casual everywhere in the hills. You can dress up if you like, particularly in the finer restaurants, but jeans are welcome most everywhere.
The area of the Black Hills is small, but the variety of experiences offered to visitors in this compact region is outstanding: stunning scenic beauty, a fascinating Native American and Western history, and fabulous family roadside attractions. From the longest caves to the largest mountain carvings, from wildlife-viewing in Custer State Park to the wildlife of historic Deadwood, there really is something for everyone.
Rapid City makes a good starting point for your exploration of the region. Start your day with breakfast at Tally’s Silver Spoon downtown and then head for the hills. The most scenic way to approach Mount Rushmore is Iron Mountain Road (U.S. 16A). Head south on Highway 79 and take a right on Highway 36, just past Hermosa. About nine miles in, take a right and head north on Iron Mountain Road just as you enter Custer State Park. Bring carrots or apples to feed the wild burros on the way, and wind through the narrow tunnels that frame the monument.
Spend the morning and early afternoon at Mount Rushmore and then head down the mountain toward Hill City. Stroll the compact boardwalk of downtown Hill City, visit the art galleries and The Museum at Black Hills Institute, and then head back to Rapid City.
Spend your evening enjoying Rapid City. Start at Prairie Edge Trading Company and Galleries, then enjoy an evening microbrew and dinner next door at the Firehouse Brewing Company. If a quiet dinner is your preference, stop in at the Wine Cellar. Stay at the Hotel Alex Johnson or the Adoba Eco Hotel in downtown Rapid.
Today is a day of contrasts with a trip to Badlands National Park and Wall Drug. Head west on I-90 and take exit 110 at the town of Wall. Stop in for a quick visit to Wall Drug to pick up some of its freshly made cake donuts. (If it is off-season, stop by Subway to pack a picnic lunch.) Drive south to the main entrance of Badlands National Park. Meander the Loop Road, take the short Fossil Exhibit Trail, and stop at the Ben Reifel Visitor Center at the southern end of the park. If you didn’t bring food, lunch is available at the Cedar Pass Lodge. Just north of the visitor center are two easy hiking trails, the Door Trail and the Window Trail, which are great for stretching the legs. The Notch Trail is a more strenuous alternative. Continue north on Highway 240, to return to I-90 and head east back to Wall. (You will pass the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site, home of the Launch Facility Delta-09, a good stop for military history enthusiasts.) Spend a little more time at Wall Drug. The kids will love the backyard and you will love the bookstore, the artwork, and the hot roast beef sandwich. Head back to Rapid City on I-90.
It’s time to shift your base camp into the hills. Head south on Highway 79 to historic Hot Springs. If you love horses, take a tour of the Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary. Visit the Mammoth Site, and then have lunch at Wooly’s Mammoth Grill. Walk the Freedom Trail beside Fall River and enjoy the town’s beautiful sandstone architecture. Visit the Pioneer Museum, treat yourself to a spa experience at the Red Rock River Resort, or bring your swimsuits and take a plunge into the warm mineral waters at Evans Plunge. Head north on U.S. 385 to Wind Cave National Park for a cave tour. Return to Hot Springs for the evening. Plan to stay at the Historic Log Cabin Inn for a rustic experience, or stay at the FlatIron Historic Sandstone Inn for elegance. For dinner, join the local crowd at Dale’s Family Restaurant.
Head out as early as you can today and plan to eat breakfast at the Bluebell Lodge in Custer State Park. To get there, drive north on U.S. 385 and take a right (north) on Highway 87. This will bring you right to Bluebell Lodge. After breakfast, backtrack on Highway 87 for a couple of miles to the park’s ranger station entrance and enjoy the scenic Wildlife Loop. Bring your binoculars, because you’re likely to see bison, prairie dogs, pronghorns, and another herd of wild burros. (Stock up on carrots and apples again.)
At the end of the loop, head west on U.S. 16A and stop at the State Game Lodge for a light snack or lunch. Continue west on U.S. 16A through Custer, stopping at Jewel Cave, named for the sparkling calcite crystal walls. This is the prettiest cave in the hills.
Return to Custer for the night. Plan to stay at the hillside cabins of the Shady Rest Motel or at the 1950s’ themed Rocket Motel downtown. Have dinner at the Sage Creek Grille.
After breakfast at Baker’s Bakery, pack up the car and head back into Custer State Park for the most beautiful drive in the Black Hills. Heading east on U.S. 16A, turn north on Highway 87. (Be careful as it is easy to get turned around in the park.) This will become the Needles Highway. This scenic byway loops around towering granite spires and formations, through a very tight tunnel, and finishes at Sylvan Lake. Avid hikers should note that the best trailhead to Harney Peak is located here. For everyone else, a walk around the lake is a nice alternative. Have a casual poolside lunch or, better yet, walk up to Sylvan Lake Lodge for lunch on the deck overlooking the lake and the granite spires of the Needles formation.
After leaving the lake area, continue north on Highway 87 to the junction with U.S. 385. Head south a short distance to Crazy Horse Memorial. This is the only large, ongoing mountain carving project in the world. Watch the video history there and shop for Native American arts and jewelry. After your visit, turn north on U.S. 385 and head to Hill City. Enjoy the downtown boardwalk, dine at Desperados Cowboy Restaurant, and stay at the Lantern Inn.
Today will be a little easier with a little less driving. Have breakfast at the Slate Creek Grille this morning and take the early 1880 Train to Keystone. Walk the boardwalk in Keystone, buy some taffy, and enjoy some shopping, but plan on lunch at the Alpine Inn back in Hill City. After lunch, take U.S. 385 north and stop at the Prairie Berry Winery for some wine tasting. As you head back toward Rapid City, be sure to stop at Bear Country U.S.A. on your way. Plan to stay at the Big Sky Lodge and have dinner at The Colonial House Restaurant & Bar.
Today, we visit the Northern Hills. Have breakfast at the Colonial House and then continue north to I-90. Head west on I-90 to Spearfish. Take the 14A exit and travel the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway. Stretch your legs and enjoy the short hike to Roughlock Falls (near the Spearfish Canyon Lodge) and to Spearfish Falls. Save lunch for Cheyenne Crossing. Head into Lead for a surface tour of the Homestake Mine, then continue on to Deadwood. Take the trolley around town, then visit the Mount Moriah Cemetery, where the graves of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane are located. Try a hand of blackjack, then enjoy a casual dinner at one of the buffets—or fine dining at the Deadwood Social Club at Saloon No. 10 or at Jake’s at the Midnight Star. Stay the night or return to Rapid City via the interstate.
The Black Hills are extremely family-friendly with attractions like Bear Country U.S.A., Reptile Gardens, Evans Plunge, Wall Drug, and the Mammoth Site.
Traveling with children can add a lot of fun to a vacation. With energy to burn, kids encourage us all to take a few more hikes, play mini golf, power a paddleboat, or slide down a mountainside.
Leave Rapid City heading south on U.S. 16, also known as Mount Rushmore Road. This is road trip heaven for families with children. Stop first at Bear Country U.S.A. Do the driving tour around the park-like setting and be sure to visit babyland there. Younger children will also enjoy a stop at Old MacDonald’s Petting Farm, just down the road from Bear Country.
a resident of Bear Country U.S.A. | bison |
Continue on to Mount Rushmore National Memorial. Visit the Lincoln Borglum Visitor Center, check out the Sculptor’s Studio and enjoy the ranger talk, and then hike The Presidential Trail to the base of the mountain.
Head to Keystone for some creamy gourmet saltwater taffy from the Rushmore Mountain Taffy Shop, take a ride on the Rushmore Tramway, and zoom down the President’s Slide. Have a nice dinner at the Ruby House and spend the night at the Powder House Lodge.
Pack your bags and head back in the direction of Mount Rushmore, but take a left before you get to the monument on U.S. 16A, also known as Iron Mountain Road, a twisting, turning, tunnel-filled scenic drive that heads toward Custer State Park. (Stay on U.S. 16A; do not head toward Mount Rushmore on Highway 244.) Keep an eye out for County Road 753 (Black Hills Playhouse Rd.). This road will enter Custer State Park and join up with Highway 87, which is Needles Highway. These are two of the most scenic byways in the state.
Head north on Needles Highway to Sylvan Lake. Hike around the lake and send the kids out in paddleboats. Have a picnic lunch at the lake or treat yourself to lunch at Sylvan Lake Lodge. Take Highway 89 south to Custer. Spend the night at the Bavarian Inn, just north of Custer, where a great dinner awaits and a pool is available for the kids.
Get an early breakfast at the Cattlemen’s and head into Custer State Park via Mount Rushmore Road. Aim for the Wildlife Loop road just past the Game Lodge off of U.S. 16A. Traveling this road is most rewarding early in the day. Stop to let the kids feed the wild burros (keeping a watchful eye on their fingers!). At the end of the loop, drive south on Highway 87 to Wind Cave National Park for a cave tour. After the tour, continue on to Hot Springs on U.S. 385 south and stop at Evans Plunge. Kids will enjoy the spring-fed pool, as well as the water slide and the rings. Stay at the Budget Host Hills Inn, and play mini golf at the Putt-4-Fun next door. In the evening, take a walk down the Freedom Trail and look for ducks.
Start the day with a visit to the Mammoth Site. (If the kids are interested in digging for mammoth bones, make reservations in advance for the Junior Paleontology program.) Drive north to Custer on U.S. 385 and plan on visiting Jewel Cave National Monument. Have lunch in town and then continue north on U.S. 385 to enjoy a horseback ride with the Rockin’ R outfit. Crazy Horse Memorial is just a couple of miles up the highway from there. Make sure to see the video and take a piece of the rock that was blasted off the mountain home for a souvenir. Continue on, and plan to spend the night in Hill City at the Lantern Inn.
It’s train time! Enjoy breakfast on the deck of the Slate Creek Grill and then head to the 1880 Train for a round-trip ride to Keystone and back. There’s plenty of time to relax and enjoy the scenery as the steam train huffs up the hills and through the canyons. Little ones enjoy waving at the folks at the many train crossings. After the ride, it’s time to head back to Rapid City. Head north on U.S. 385 and then follow the signs to Rapid City on U.S. 16. Once on U.S. 16, stop at the Cosmos Mystery Area, a quick but fun roadside attraction. Spend the rest of the afternoon at the fabulous Reptile Gardens, where kids can meet 100-year-old giant tortoises. Interactive demonstrations about raptors, crocodiles, and snakes are offered all day. Continue your journey back to Rapid City and spend the night at Big Sky Lodge.
Now is the time to visit an entirely different ecological niche. Travel east on Highway 44 from Rapid City until you come to the southern entrance of Badlands National Park. Stop at the Ben Reifel Visitor Center to get oriented and to check the daily activities. Note times and locations for ranger-guided tours and the Junior Ranger program. Hike the Door Trail and the Window Trail, and then head north on the Badlands Loop Road. Try to time it so that you can participate in a ranger-guided tour at the Fossil Exhibit Trail. Head out of the park into the town of Wall and visit Wall Drug—a must for the kids. Take pictures of them as one of the Mount Rushmore heads or saddled on top of a jackalope. Head back to Rapid City on I-90.
Take it relatively easy today. Choose either the Journey Museum; Storybook Island, a charming free attraction; or Dinosaur Park, where gigantic dinosaurs overlook the city. Spend some time at Prairie Edge Trading Company and Galleries downtown and enjoy the dancing waters at Main Street Square across the street.
As you explore the sublime landscape of South Dakota, take the time to immerse yourself in culture, steep yourself in history, discover contemporary art, and enjoy fine dining along the way.
Main Street Square: On a beautiful day stop by the square, let the kids splash about in the fountain, take your pick of fabulous shops and restaurants, and enjoy a milkshake at one of the outside tables. Visit with the on-site sculptor who is carving granite spires into representations of the Black Hills, Rapid City, and the Badlands.
Prairie Edge Trading Company and Galleries: With artwork that is beautiful, eclectic, and fabulously displayed, Prairie Edge is the most attractive gallery and gift shop and in the Black Hills. The best Native American artwork, jewelry and crafts, asre featured, and artists are frequently available on-site.
Reflections of South Dakota Gallery: Photographer (and former Director of Wildland Fire Suppression for the State of South Dakota) Joe Lowe and his wife Wendy, a painter, display their work at their gallery, which also features the work of other jewely-makers, woodworkers, and potters.
James Van Nuys Gallery: Artist James Van Nuys has mastered the prairie sky. If the size and scope of the beautiful plains landscape has captured your imagination, stop by this gallery and admire his work. He can frequently be found painting a canvas on-site.
Corn Exchange: Enjoy a relaxing dinner made from the freshest foods available at the finest—and coziest—restaurants in town. Chef M.J. Adams trained at the French Culinary Institute, volunteered at the James Beard Foundation, and then transferred all of her know-how back to the Midwest.
Adoba Eco Hotel: Combine an excellent organic based restaurant (Enigma’s) with an environmentally friendly hotel and you have the Adoba Eco Hotel. The wildly creative rooms feature recycled materials, including wall coverings, lamp shades, and serving trays (made from old street signs!).
Termesphere Gallery: Named after internationally acclaimed artist Dick Termes, this gallery isn’t the easiest place to find, but it’s worth the search. Termes three-dimensional paintings on spheres are gorgeous, fascinating, and one of a kind.
Latchstring Inn: Location, Location, Location! Within walking distance of two of the three waterfalls in Spearfish Canyon, this log cabin restaurant has an outdoor patio with unbeatable views. It’s perfect for warm summer afternoons. After a short hike to the falls, relax out on the deck with glass of wine.
Adams Museum: The oldest museum in the Black Hills (built in 1930) includes a display of the first steam train in the hills, artifacts of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane, and a superb collection of historic photos.
Deadwood Social Club: Handcrafted meals, an extensive wine list, and a rooftop patio overlooking the main street of historic Deadwood combine for a most memorable dining experience.
Bullock Hotel: When gambling breathed new life into the community, new owners completely restored this historic hotel (built by Seth Bullock between1894–1896), once the finest in the West, to its original Victorian splendor. Fans of paranormal phenomena will be happy to know that Seth Bullock’s ghost reportedly continues to supervise the kitchen staff.
Jon Crane Gallery: Famous for his beautiful and detailed watercolor depictions of historic places and outdoor landscapes, Jon Crane has been perfecting his craft in South Dakota for over 35 years.
Sandy Swallow Gallery: Born on the Pine Ridge Reservation, Sandy Swallow Morgan is an enrolled member of the Oglala Lakota Nation. Her gallery features the works of other Oglala Lakota artists in the region. Sandy was invited to the White House for her painting of Devil’s Tower on the White House Christmas ornament.
Warrior’s Work & Ben West Gallery: There two large galleries in one location (focused on contemporary fine arts and Native American arts) features some of the most striking paintings in the hills. It’s also notable for the handcrafted leather frames, created by owner Randy Berger.
Prairie Berry Winery: Some of the friendliest and most knowledgeable staff in the hills offer samples of wines created from the fruits, grapes, and honey of the plains. To top it off, the winery features a gourmet restaurant with a lovely outdoor patio. It’s just plain fun.
State Game Lodge: All of the lodges in Custer State Park are exceptional, but none beats the State Game Lodge for history and elegance. Built in 1920, this wood and stone lodge was the “Summer White House” for President Calvin Coolidge in 1927. The dining room features the best in South Dakota game including pheasant, trout and buffalo. Step back in time and watch as herds of bison roam the grounds at will.