San Andrés & Providencia
San Andrés & Providencia
Why Go?
The archipelago of San Andrés and Providencia is geographically located near to Nicaragua, historically tied to England and politically part of Colombia. Here you’ll find isolated beaches, unspoiled coral reefs and an alluring island flavor, and with just a little digging the 300-year-old English-Creole-speaking Raizal culture.
San Andrés, the largest island in the archipelago and its commercial and administrative hub, attracts many Colombian tourists seeking duty-free shopping sprees. The crowds, however, are not difficult to escape.
Providencia offers the same turquoise sea and extensive coral reefs, but is much less commercialized. Its colonial heritage is still thriving in small hamlets of colorful wooden homes peppered about the island.
Both islands offer a total change of pace to the mainland and are well worth the effort of getting to.
When to Go
- Jan–Jun The dry season is best to avoid the Caribbean’s increasingly common hurricanes.
- Apr–Jul Crabs migrate and roads in Providencia can be closed to protect them!
- Dec & Aug Christmas and August are peak times when peices spike and booking are essential.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
San Andrés & Providencia Highlights
1 Bahía Suroeste Drinking coco locos on this gorgeous stretch of sand while watching the sunset.
2 Bahía Aguadulce Lying on Providencia’s busiest beach still means you’ll see only a few dozen other people.
3 Johnny Cay Digging your toes into the pristine sands of the stunning 4-hectare Johnny Cay Natural Regional Park.
4 El Pico Trekking through iguana and crab country for stunning views from Providencia’s highest point.
5 Haynes Cay Swimming with the stingrays at sunset off San Andrés.
6 Scuba diving Gawking at Colombia’s prettiest coral reefs and marine life in Providencia’s blue waters.
7 Old Providence McBean Lagoon Exploring the thick mangrove swamps off the coast of Providencia by boat.
History
The first inhabitants of the islands were probably a group of Dutch colonists who made their home on Providencia towards the end of the 16th century. In 1631 they were expelled by the English, who effectively colonized the islands. The English brought with them African slaves from Jamaica and began to cultivate tobacco and cotton. The Raizal people are the product of intermingling between these colonizers and their slaves. The Spanish, irate at the English success on the islands, unsuccessfully invaded the archipelago in 1635.
Because of their strategic location, the islands provided convenient shelter for pirates waiting to sack Spanish galleons bound for home, laden with gold and riches. In 1670 legendary pirate Henry Morgan established his base on Providencia, and from here he raided both Panama and Santa Marta. Legend has it that his treasures are still hidden somewhere on the island.
Shortly after Colombia achieved independence in 1810, it laid claim to the islands, although Nicaragua fiercely disputed its right to do so. The issue was eventually settled by a treaty in 1928, which confirmed Colombia’s sovereignty over the islands.
Geographic isolation kept the islands’ unique Anglo-Caribbean character virtually intact, though things started to change when a flight service connected the islands to mainland Colombia in the 1950s. In 1954 a government plan to make the islands a duty-free zone brought with it tourism, commerce, entrepreneurs and Colombian culture, which slowly began to uproot the 300-year-old Raizal identity, pushing it aside in favor of big tourism bucks.
In the early 1990s the local government introduced restrictions on migration to the islands in order to slow the rampant influx of people and to preserve the local culture and identity. Yet Colombian mainlanders account for two-thirds of San Andrés’ population, and English and Spanish have been the two official languages since 1991.
The tourist and commercial boom has caused San Andrés to lose much of its original character; it’s now a blend of Latin American and Anglo-Caribbean culture, though there is a movement to restore Raizal roots on the island. Providencia has preserved much more of its colonial culture, even though tourism is making inroads into the local lifestyle, and you’ll hear Spanish spoken just as commonly as (if not more than) the traditional English dialect that had, until recently, always predominated.
Although the political status of San Andrés and Providencia is unlikely to change, Nicaragua continues to press the issue of its sovereignty over the islands at the International Court of Justice in The Hague. The court reaffirmed Colombia’s sovereignty over the main islands in 2007, and over its maritime boundary and secondary islands in 2012.
San Andrés
%8 / Pop 70,000
Just 150km east of Nicaragua and some 800km northwest of mainland Colombia, the seahorse-shaped island of San Andrés is best known as Colombia’s favorite weekend getaway, where mainlanders love to come to drink, tax-free shop, sunbathe and party. San Andrés Town, the focus of the action, won’t be splashed across postcards any time soon, though it does boast an attractive beach promenade and has in recent years begun to address what might be charitably termed its beauty gap.
Indeed, San Andrés is best appreciated outside the downtown hubbub. Whether you take a boat trip to one of the idyllic offshore cays, check out the excellent scuba-diving and snorkeling opportunities or head down the scenic 30km road encircling the rest of the island, where Anglo-Caribbean Raizal culture grinds up against the far more recently imported Colombian one, often manages to charm visitors in the end.
1Sights
Johnny Cay Natural Regional ParkBEACH
(COP$2000)
This protected 4-hectare coral islet sits about 1.5km north of San Andrés Town. It’s covered with coconut groves and surrounded by a lovely white-sand beach, which is easily the best in San Andrés. The sunbathing is good, but be careful swimming as there are dangerous currents. Boats leave from the main town beach (round trip on a colectivo/private boat COP$10,000/30,000 per person). The last boat back is at 5pm in high season, 3:30pm in low.
As well as the taxi fare and entry to the cay, you’ll be charged for food and drink you consume during your stay. Most of the time you’ll be met by an unofficial waiter/fixer who will arrange food and drink for you during your stay on the island and will keep a tab for you that you can pay at the end. Bear in mind that the cay can fill up far beyond capacity, and tourists fight for space with an estimated 500 iguanas that call it home.
San LuisVILLAGE
Located on the island’s east coast, San Luis boasts white-sand beaches and some fine traditional wooden houses. The sea here is good for snorkeling, though conditions can be a little rough. San Luis has no center as such and is really just a 3km string of mostly ramshackle houses along the coast, but it’s a tranquil alternative to San Andrés Town.
Cayo El AcuarioBEACH
Off the east coast of San Andrés and right next to Haynes Cay, Acuario is a sandbank frequently visited by boat (round trip COP$15,000). The surrounding sea is shallow and calm, and good for snorkeling. If you forget to bring your snorkeling gear, you can rent some here on the beach.
Haynes CayISLAND
This small, rocky island doesn’t offer beaches, but it’s an idyllic and wild spot full of iguanas and great for snorkeling. There are a couple of restaurants here and it’s a fun day trip for much of the year, though it can get crowded on the weekend and during the August holidays. Boat trips cost COP$15,000.
Hoyo SopladorGEYSER
At the southern tip of the island, the Hoyo Soplador is a small geyser where sea water spouts into the air (up to 20m at times) through a natural hole in the coral rock. This phenomenon occurs only at certain times, when the winds and tide are right, but it’s worth hanging around to see.
La PiscinitaBEACH
(West View; COP$5000)
Also known as West View, and located just south of El Cove, La Piscinita is a good site for snorkeling. It has usually calm water, plenty of fish (which will eat out of your hand) and some facilities, including a restaurant serving seafood and renting snorkel gear.
La LomaVILLAGE
This small town in the inner part of San Andrés, also known as the Hill, is one of the most traditional places here. It’s noted for its old Baptist church, the first established on the island in 1847. Definitely take a stroll and absorb the unique atmosphere here.
2Activities
Due to the beautiful coral reefs all around it, San Andrés is an important diving center, with more than 35 dive spots. Otherwise, most visitors are focused on beach-hopping, day trips to various islands, water sports and and partying in San Andrés Town.
Crucero RivielBOATING
(map Google map; %8-512-8840; Av Newball, San Andrés Town)
Offers daily tours that combine Acuario and Johnny Cay and leave at 8:30am (COP$30,000). Also runs less frequent tours to other islets, snorkeling sites and beaches.
San Andrés DiversDIVING
(%312-448-7230; www.sanandresdivers.com; Av Circunvalar, Km 10)
Though not as centrally located as other dive shops on the island, this large shop and school has a great reputation and offers PADI certification for COP$850,000. A two-tank dive with all equipment included is COP$165,000. The office is located at Hotel Blue Cove, while the training pool and dive center can be found further down the main road.
Banda Dive ShopDIVING
(map Google map; %8-513-1080, 315-303-5428; www.bandadiveshop.com; Hotel Lord Pierre, Av Colombia, San Andrés Town)
Extra-friendly dive shop offering two-tank dives for COP$200,000 and PADI open-water certification for COP$850,000. Definitely one of the most professional outfits on the island.
Karibik DiverDIVING
(map Google map; %318-863-9552, 8-512-0101; www.karibik-diver.com; Av Newball No 1-248, San Andrés Town)
This small German-run school provides quality equipment and personalized service. A two-tank dive is COP$170,000 without equipment. PADI certification costs COP$900,000.
San Andrés Diving & FishingSNORKELING
(map Google map; %316-240-2182; sites.google.com/site/sanandresfishinganddiving; Portofino’s Marina; 3hr tours COP$75,000)
Jaime Restrepo runs a very popular island tour that takes in three snorkeling sites around San Andrés, including the chance to swim with stingrays. It’s somewhat casual and limited to groups of 10. The tour leaves at 2pm from Portofino’s Marina at Barracuda Park in San Andrés Town and it’s important to book ahead.
Coonative BrothersBOATING
(map Google map; %8-512-1923, 8-512-2522)
On San Andrés Town’s beach, this boating co-op provides trips to Johnny Cay (COP$20,000 including entry) and Acuario (COP$15,000), plus a combined tour to both cays (COP$25,000).
DIVING ON SAN ANDRéS & PROVIDENCIA
While courses or individual dives may be cheaper on the mainland, the richness of the corals and the variety of marine life here rivals almost any place in the Caribbean.
Both San Andrés and Providencia have extensive coral reefs – 15km and 35km respectively – and they’re notable for their sponges, which appear in an amazing range of forms, sizes and colors. Other aquatic inhabitants include barracudas, sharks, turtles, lobsters, rays and red snappers. Wreck divers will want to check out the two sunken ships, Blue Diamond and Nicaraguense, both off the coast of San Andrés.
The top five dive spots:
Palacio de la Cherna A wall dive southeast of San Andrés that begins at 12m and drops off some 300m more. Midnight parrot fish, tiger fish, king crabs, lobsters and even nurse and reef sharks are common sightings.
Cantil de Villa Erika Southwest of San Andrés. Depths range from 12m to 45m along this colorful reef full of sponges, soft and hard corals, sea turtles, manta and eagle rays, and sea horses.
La Piramide A shallow dive inside the reef on San Andrés’ north side, this is a haven for stingrays. The quantity of fishes, octopuses and moray eels make it one of the most active spots on the island.
Tete’s Place Large schools of mid-sized goatfish, grunt fish, schoolmasters and squirrel fish frequent this aquarium-like site 1km offshore at Bahía Suroeste in Providencia.
Manta’s Place Despite its name, there are no manta rays at this Providencia site, but rather southern stingrays with wingspans up to 1.5m. As you survey the sands between coral mounds, you’ll pass fields of ghost feather dusters, where brown garden eels withdraw into the sand for protection.
4Sleeping
The overwhelming majority of the island’s accommodations can be found in San Andrés Town. There are some hotels in San Luis, but elsewhere there are relatively few places to stay. For the most part, options on the island are more expensive than on the mainland, although there are now several hostels.
4San Andrés Town
(%8-512-2519, 300-810-3233; www.karibbikhaus.com; Calle 11 No 1a-1, Barrio los Almedros; dm COP$50,000-70,000, d from 150,000; 
a
W)
This much-needed addition to the local budget scene comes with more than a dash of style. The dorms are spacious and feature quality bunks, while the private rooms are firmly in the midrange category, with sparkling bathrooms and all sorts of thoughtful extras.
Cli’s PlaceGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map; %8-512-0591; luciamhj@hotmail.com; Av 20 de Julio No 3-47; s/d/tr COP$80,000/140,000/190,000; aW)
This Raizal-run place is part of the island’s posada nativa program, where you bed down with locals. English-speaking Cli has eight simple rooms, some with kitchenettes. It’s reached via a gated alleyway off the park. Breakfast costs an extra COP$10,000 per person.
Apartahotel Tres CasitasHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %8-512-5880; Av Colombia No 1-60; r per person incl half board COP$130,000; aW
s)
A cute yellow-and-blue clapboard hotel with extra-large rooms, all with kitchenettes and separate living areas. Rates include breakfast and dinner, and some rooms have balconies over the sea. Definitely one of the more charming options in San Andrés Town.
Posada HenryGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map; %8-512-6150; libiadehenry@hotmail.com; Av 20 de Julio No 1-36; s/d COP$50,000/90,000)
This centrally located guesthouse is part of the posada nativa program, which allows travellers to stay with locals on the island. The fan-cooled, tile-floored rooms all have bathrooms and fridges and are decorated in bright island colors.
Decameron Los DelfinesBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %8-512-4083; www.decameron.com; Av Colombia No 16-86; per person all-inclusive from COP$528,000; aWs)
The first boutique hotel on the island, as well as within the Decameron chain, this stylish 36-room hotel is quiet, discreet and very popular with couples. It features an over-water restaurant, a small pool and smart furniture, all housed in a design-forward structure that wouldn’t be out of place in Los Angeles.
4San Andrés Island
oHotel Playa TranquiloBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%8-513-0719; www.playatranquilo.com; Km 8 Via El Cove; r incl breakfast from COP$360,000; aWs)
Buddha overlooks a small pool and sets the tone for this boutique place, which has gorgeous rooms combining modern and traditional touches. Kitchens and communal sitting areas are on offer in some rooms, making it a great place to come with kids.
(%8-513-2121; www.cocoplumhotel.com; Via San Luis No 43-39; s/d incl breakfast COP$294,000/406,000; aWs)
On a gorgeous private white-sand beach shaded with palm trees, this multicolored low-key beach resort sports Caribbean architecture. There’s a restaurant that serves fresh meals all day, and it’s also open to nonguests. Rocky Cay, a good spot for snorkeling, is nearby.
San Luis Village HotelHOTEL$$$
(%8-513-0500; www.hotelsanluisvillage.com; Av Circunvalar No 71-27, San Luis; s/d incl breakfast from COP$550,000/600,000; aWs)
This very comfortable 18-room hotel has luxuries including flat-screen TVs and private balconies or terraces for each room.
5Eating
The Creole-Caribbean influence means staples include breadfruit, which takes the place of patacones (fried plantains) as the starch of choice, and ubiquitous conch, which can be found on almost every menu. Be sure to try the most traditional dish, rundown (or rondon in the local Creole), a soupy dish of lightly battered fish, plantains, yucca and other gooey starches, all slow-cooked in a healthy dose of coconut milk.
Perú WokPERUVIAN$$
(map Google map; www.peruwok.com; Av Colombia, Big Point; mains COP$20,000-50,000; 
hnoon-11pm; W)
This restaurant offers dishes of Peruvian-Asian fusion including ceviches, seafood, rice dishes, wok dishes and grills, with a sleek, modern design sets it apart from much of the competition. Choose between the cool dining room or the breezy sea-view terrace.
Mr PaninoITALIAN$$
(map Google map; Edifico Breadfruit, local 106-107, Av Colón; mains COP$20,000-50,000; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 4pm-10pm Sun)
Despite the touristy-sounding name, this place in San Andrés Town is the real deal. You can expect to find Parma ham and amazing cheeses in its Italian specialty deli, as well as sandwiches, pasta, pizza, risotto and even octopus carpaccio.
Miss Celia O’Neill TasteSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map; Av Newball; mains COP$20,000-40,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)
This rather cute place in a colorful and traditional Caribbean house with a big garden and breezy patio is a good choice for local food such as rondon, stewed crab and stewed fish.
Fisherman PlaceSEAFOOD$$
(%8-512-2774; Av Colombia; mains COP$15,000-50,000; hnoon-4pm)
Visiting this open-air, beachside San Andrés Town restaurant is a great way to support local fisherfolk and eat well. Rondon and fried fish are the most popular dishes.
GrogSEAFOOD$$
(Rocky Cay; mains COP$20,000-40,000; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)
With shade-dappled tables scattered all over the beach, this friendly little locale does a range of mean seafood dishes, including ceviche, rice and wok options, and tasty starters.
oGourmet Shop AsshoEUROPEAN$$$
(map Google map; Av Newball; mains COP$30,000-85,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun; W)
Streets ahead of the competition, this strangely named place stands out with its delightful decor and impressive menu: here you’ll find rare steak, beautifully seasoned seafood dishes, and a range of salads, tapas and vegetarian options. There’s an excellent wine list, great coffee and killer desserts, too.
oRestaurante La RegattaSEAFOOD$$$
(map Google map; %317-744-3516; www.restaurantelaregatta.com; Av Newball; mains COP$30,000-100,000; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm; 
v)
The islands’ best restaurant, La Regatta is housed on a wooden pontoon structure over the sea at the Club Náutico in San Andrés Town. Despite a healthy dose of pirate kitsch, it has a formal, white-linen tablecloth atmosphere and the food is heavenly. The langosta regatta is nothing short of perfection.
(San Luis; mains COP$30,000-60,000; h9am-6pm; W)
Right on the beach, this breezy place may be little more than a shack, but it serves up absolutely delicious traditional Caribbean food such as langostinos al coco (breaded crayfish deep-fried with coconut), pulpo al ajillo (octopus cooked in garlic) and tempura calamari. Even better: showers and changing facilities mean you can combine a meal with a swim.
Mahi MahiTHAI$$$
(map Google map; Hotel Casablanca, Av Colombia; mains COP$30,000-95,000; hnoon-11pm; W)
This chic Thai spot on the waterfront, part of Hotel Casablanca, provides a welcome break from Colombian staples with its seasoned curries and island-tinged dishes. As well as the cheaper Thai menu, there’s a pricey Colombian seafood menu, too.
El ParaísoSEAFOOD$$$
(San Luis; mains COP$30,000-60,000; h9am-5pm; W)
On a great strip of white-sand beach, El Paraíso is a slightly more upmarket restaurant than some of the simpler beach shacks, but its fresh seafood is of the same excellent quality..
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are many nightspots in San Andrés Town along the eastern end of Av Colombia, but expect drunk holidaying Colombians and ear-bleeding music that may not appeal to foreigners too much.
BanzaiCOCKTAIL BAR
(map Google map; Av Newball, local 119, San Andrés Town; h7pm-2am)
If you want a late-night drink without going to a club, Banzai is a great cocktail bar that’s popular with locals. The well-mixed drinks are served expertly to a reggae backbeat, and it’s chic and rather alternative without being try-hard.
ÉxtasisCLUB
(map Google map; Hotel Sol Caribe San Andrés, Av Colón, San Andrés Town; h9:30pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
The busiest and best-established club in San Andrés, Éxtasis, on the top floor of the Hotel Sol Caribe, has a huge dance floor that is always packed at weekends and a capacity of 500 people. You can recoup COP$15,000 of the varying cover charge in cocktails.
Blue DeepCLUB
(map Google map; Sunrise Beach Hotel, Av Newball, San Andrés Town; h9:30pm-3am Thu-Sat) 
S
The biggest disco in town holds 700 sweaty bodies. There is live music (salsa and reggaeton), which provides the soundtrack for a decent mix of locals and tourists, all stumbling about after too many frothy rum punches. There’s a cover charge of COP$20,000.
8Information
There is plentiful information for visitors to San Andrés in both the main Tourist Office (Secretaría de Turismo; %8-513-0801; Av Newball, San Andrés Town; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) and the smaller Tourist Information Booth (cnr Avs Colombia & 20 de Julio; h8am-6pm) on the seafront.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport (Aeropuerto Internacional Sesquicentenario; %8-512-6112; San Andrés) is right in the town center and the runway ends at the beach. You must buy a tourist card (COP$44,000) on the mainland before boarding your San Andrés–bound flight, but these are sold at the gate and there’s no chance you’ll be allowed to board without one. Airlines that connect to San Andrés include Avianca (%8-512-3216; www.avianca.com; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport), LATAM (%1-800-094-9490; www.latam.com; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport) and Copa (%8-512-7619; www.copaair.com; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport), and cities with direct flights here include Bogotá, Barranquilla, Cali, Cartagena, Medellín and Panama City.
Satena (%8-512-1403; www.satena.com; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport) and Searca (%8-512-2237; www.searca.com.co; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport) operate two flights per day between San Andrés and Providencia in low season (round trip from COP$450,000) and up to six in high season.
BOAT
Conocemos Navegando (%toll free 01-8000-111-500; www.conocemosnavegando.com; Centro Comercial New Point L.111, Av Providencia; one-way/return COP$170,000/300,000; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) provides pricey catamaran services between San Andrés and Providencia daily, except Tuesday, in both directions. Services depart from Muelle Toninos (Tonino’s Marina) at 8am and return at 2:30pm the same day. You’re supposed to arrive a full hour and a half before departure for registration. The journey takes three hours, and can be extremely rough. It’s possible to visit Providencia on a day trip with this service, but it would be very rushed. Seats can often sell out, even in low season, so book ahead.
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
San Andrés’ Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport is a 10-minute walk from the town center, or a flat-fare COP$15,000/7000 ride by taxi/moto-taxi. If you don’t have much luggage, it’s an easy walk. There’s a left luggage room at the airport (COP$5000 per item per 24 hours).
BICYCLE
Cycling around San Andrés is a great way to get a feel for the island. Roads are paved, there are very few hills and there is little traffic to contend with. Rentals start at around COP$10,000/20,000 per half-/full day.
BUS
Local buses circle the island, as well as the inland road to El Cove, and are the cheapest way to get around (COP$2000 per ride). They can drop you off close to all the major attractions.
A bus marked ‘San Luis’ travels along the east-coast road to the southern tip of the island; take this bus to San Luis and Hoyo Soplador. The bus marked ‘El Cove’ runs along the inner road to El Cove, passing through La Loma. It’ll drop you in front of the Baptist church, within easy walking distance of La Piscinita. You can catch both buses at the end of Carrera 5 in San Andrés Town.
SCOOTER
The best way to travel independently around the island is by scooter (from COP$70,000 per day, but as much as COP$120,000 in the high season) or golf buggy (known locally as a mula; from COP$100,000 per day). Many of the dozens of rental businesses are on Av Newball in San Andrés Town and are concentrated around the tip of the island. Most will also deliver to your hotel. Shop around as prices and conditions vary.
TAXI
A taxi to take you for a sightseeing trip around the island will cost around COP$70,000.
Providencia
%8 / Pop 5000
Providencia, 90km north of San Andrés, is a wonderfully remote and traditional Caribbean island with breathtaking scenery, gorgeous golden-sand beaches, friendly locals and superb diving. Best of all, it’s a pain to get to, ensuring that you’ll only have to share this slice of paradise with the other intrepid travellers happy to fly here in a rickety 20-seater plane or an often rough three-hour catamaran ride.
Without a direct connection to the Colombian mainland, Providencia hasn’t seen nearly the same levels of cultural invasion as San Andrés, leaving its traditions and customs more or less intact. You’ll still hear the local English Creole spoken all over the island, and road signs direct you with the old English town names rather than their Spanish equivalents. All this, combined with beautiful topography standing sentinel over swaths of turquoise-blue sea, gives Providencia no small claim to being a quirky paradise.
1Sights
Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Old Providence McBean LagoonPARK
(map; COP$17,000)
To protect the unique marine life here, a 10-sq-km nature reserve in the island’s northeast was established in 1995. About 10% of the park’s area covers a coastal mangrove system east of the airport; the remaining 905 hectares cover an offshore belt including the islets of Cayo Cangrejo and Cayo Tres Hermanos. An 800m-long ecopath helps you identify different species of mangroves and the fauna that inhabit them.
Cayo CangrejoISLAND
(Crab Quay)
Cayo Cangrejo, a small island that’s part of Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon, rises sharply and dramatically off the coast. There’s no beach here, but there is terrific snorkeling and diving, and a couple of bars serving drinks and seafood. Boat captains will take you across from Maracaibo, where they hang around outside the Hotel Deep Blue . Pick-up is whenever you tell them. A trip costs COP$44,000 per person, plus a COP$17,000 fee to enter the national park.
Bahía ManzanilloBEACH
(map; Manicheel Bay)
This very lovely stretch of white-sand beach is also Providencia’s wildest, with no development at all, save the much-loved Roland Roots Bar . The water here can be rough, and the beach is often strewn with seaweed, but the entire place is magical. It’s generally safe to swim, but avoid going too far out as there are strong currents.
Bahía AguadulceBEACH
(map; Freshwater Bay)
This sleepy little hamlet offers peace, quiet and a charming sandy beach. There are more than a dozen places to stay here, many right on the beach itself, and also a couple of diving schools.
Bahía SuroesteBEACH
(map; Southwest Bay)
This gorgeous bay boasts a magnificent palm-lined beach backed by steep hills. There are just a couple of hotels here so it’s a great spot for true escape. If you’re on the island on a Saturday afternoon, be sure to come here for the weekly bareback horse race along the beach, which starts around 2pm.
Almond BayBEACH
map; A relatively little-known beach a five-minute walk downhill from the main island road, tiny Almond Bay has lovely white sand, calm clear water and very few visitors. There are a few stands serving drinks and simple snacks, and you can also hire snorkeling equipment. However, the beach has almost no shade, so consider bringing an umbrella.
Santa CatalinaISLAND
map; Some tiny, deserted beaches exist on the island of Santa Catalina. It’s worth a look if only to see Morgan’s Head, a rocky cliff in the shape of a human face, best seen from the water. An underwater cave is at the base of the cliff. The shoreline changes considerably with the tides; during high-tide, beaches get very narrow and some totally disappear. To explore the island’s coastline, take the path to the left after the pontoon bridge.
LighthouseGALLERY
(map; %313-380-5866; www.lighthouseprovidencia.com; High Hill; h5-9pm Tue-Sat) S
With a great lookout to the sea, this community-run arts space serves as a small educational center, gallery, cafe and hangout. It shows documentaries on a projector after dark (ask to see the fascinating – if bizarre – doc about the local crab migration, COP$10,000 per person); serves up good coffee and a range of island snacks; and promotes environmental awareness.
Santa IsabelVILLAGE
map; Strangely, Santa Isabel doesn’t see much tourism, despite its gorgeous location in a picturesque bay attached by a pontoon bridge to the little island of Santa Catalina. Its lack of a beach might be the explanation, but it’s well worth coming up here to wander around the quaint town and see the locals going about their business.
2Activities
The best beaches are Bahía Suroeste, Bahía Aguadulce, and Bahía Manzanillo at the southern end of the island, but there are several other lovely places to swim.
Diving & Snorkeling
Snorkeling and diving are the island’s two biggest attractions, and you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to do either here. The clear water and stunning reef life make this one of the best places for them in the Caribbean. Diving trips and courses can be arranged with local operators, dive sites tend to be fairly standardized and there is an ever- increasing number of newer outfits on the island keeping competition healthy.
Felipe Diving ShopDIVING
(map; %8-514-8775; www.felipediving.com; Aguadulce)
Diving trips and courses can be arranged with this recommended operator run by a native Raizal. An open-water or advanced course can be arranged for COP$880,000. As well as going diving to one of dozens of sites daily, Felipe also offers night dives (COP$200,000).
Sirius Dive ShopDIVING
(map; %8-514-8213; www.siriushotel.net; Bahía Suroeste)
This dive shop, located in the grounds of the Sirius Hotel, offers an open-water or advanced course for COP$800,000. A two-tank dive with quality equipment is COP$200,000. Night dives are also offered (COP$220,000).
Sonny Dive ShopDIVING
(map; %313-430-2911, 318-274-4524; www.sonnydiveshop.com; Aguadulce)
Sonny’s Dive Shop in Aguadulce offers an open-water or advanced course for COP$850,000. Two-tank dives cost COP$190,000, while a night dive is COP$150,000.
Hiking
The mountainous interior of the island is impressive in terms of its vegetation and small animal life, making it great for walking. There’s perhaps nowhere else in Colombia that you will see so many colorful lizards, iguanas and black crabs scampering through bushes. Beware of a common shrub with spectacular hornlike thorns; ants living inside have a painful bite. Mosquitoes also abound in the interior.
One superb hike takes you through the thick mountain forests of El Pico Natural Regional Park map; 
F for outstanding 360-degree views of the Caribbean from El Pico mountain (360m). The most popular trail begins in Casabaja. Ask for directions as several paths crisscross on the lower part (further up there are no problems), or ask in Casabaja for an informal guide. It’s a steady 90-minute walk to the top, best done early.
zFestivals & Events
Crab MigrationNATURE
(hApr-Jul)
This event takes place twice a year for a week or two between April and July. First, the adult black crabs descend to the beaches and lay their eggs, before returning to the mountainside. Then, several weeks later, the juvenile crabs leave the sea and follow in their path. Roads usually close to allow safe crossing for the crabs.
Cultural FestivalCULTURAL
(hJun)
Providencia’s major cultural event takes place in the last week of June. It includes music and dance, a parade of motorcycles and an iguana beauty pageant.
4Sleeping
Accommodations in Providencia tends to be fairly disappointing, with poorly run hotels coasting by on the island’s own charms. Most options can be found in Aguadulce or Bahía Suroeste, where you’ll find an ever-growing number of small cottages, hotels and cabañas. There is accommodation all over the island, however, and the north – which is virtually traveller-free – can make for a pleasant contrast to the tourist enclaves down south.
Posada Coco BayGUESTHOUSE$$
(map;%311-804-0373; posadacocobay@gmail.com; Maracaibo; s/d from COP$100,000/150,000; aW)
A rustic spot with a view of Cayo Cangrejo and hammocks on the timber balconies, this is a good choice for a chilled island vibe. The shipshape rooms come with mosquito nets and some even have kitchens. While there’s no beach here, it’s still possible to swim directly from the property.
Mr MacCABAñAS$$
(map;%318-695-9540, 316-567-6526; posadamistermack@hotmail.com; Aguadulce; bungalow/apt per person COP$70,000/90,000; a)
The island’s cheapest option is also one of its friendliest, where host Laudina warmly welcomes guests. The green-painted timber house is over the water, with hammocks strewn along the verandah. Rooms are large and the enormous apartments also have kitchenettes. It’s possible to swim in the sea from the garden here.
Cabañas Miss ElmaCABAñAS$$
(map;%310-566-3773, 8-514-8229; Aguadulce; r per person incl breakfast COP$150,000; a)
Right on Aguadulce’s lovely palm-backed beach, this friendly family-run place has colorful common areas and a wonderfully casual seaside restaurant. The six wood-panelled cabañas are simple but spotless and spacious. Some have sea views and all have fridges and TV.
Cabañas El RecreoCABAñAS$$$
(map;%317-425-5389; capbryan@hotmail.com; Aguadulce; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$120,000/206,000/292,000; aW)
These orange-painted timber cabins spread out along the edge of the beach in Aguadulce may not exactly exude charm in themselves, but they have a dreamy location with the waves just meters away. Each one includes a fridge and a TV, and the rooms right on the beach are no extra cost, so book early!
Posada del MarHOTEL$$$
(map;%8-514-8454; www.decameron.com; Aguadulce; s/d incl breakfast from COP$140,000/250,000; aW)
This place, run by hotel chain Decameron, still feels small-scale, though it’s rather larger than it appears from the street. It’s brightly painted and well maintained, rooms have smallish balconies overlooking the sea and there’s a garden from where you can swim.
Hotel Deep BlueHOTEL$$$
(map;%315-324-8443, 321-458-2099; www.hoteldeepblue.com; Maracaibo; d/ste incl breakfast from COP$610,000/770,000; aWs)
Providencia’s smartest hotel by some distance, the Deep Blue offers 12 spacious rooms complete with marble floors, rain showers, flat-screen TVs and smart bathroom products. The higher categories even have mini-infinity pools on their balconies and there’s a communal rooftop pool with amazing views towards Cayo Cangrejo, as well as a highly recommended restaurant on the waterfront.
Frenchy’s PlaceAPARTMENT$$$
(map;%315-709-6910, 318-306-1901; posadafrenchysprovidencia@gmail.com; Aguadulce; s/d/tr COP$190,000/250,000/310,000)
Run by Parisienne Marie (known as ‘Frenchy’), this charmingly rustic, wood-crafted apartment is perhaps the most characterful place to stay on the island. There’s a gorgeous balcony overlooking the sea, two bedrooms (one double, one single), a full kitchen, a bathroom and a living area crammed full of eccentric knickknacks. Book in advance.
Sirius HotelHOTEL$$$
(map;%8-514-8213; www.siriushotel.net; Bahía Suroeste; s/d/tr incl breakfast from COP$190,000/310,000/400,000; aW)
Sirius has a dreamy location on Bahía Suroeste. Its rooms are extremely clean, and some have lovely sea views and even balconies. It’s a perfect choice if you want to spend quiet days on the beach or diving.
Hotel El Pirata MorganHOTEL$$$
(map;%8-514-8232; www.elpiratamorganhotel.org; Aguadulce; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$180,000/220,000/310,000; aWs)
A solid option in the heart of Aguadulce, the Pirata Morgan may lack the Caribbean flair of some of its neighbors and has rather dated interiors, but the welcome is friendly and the rooms are clean. There’s a pleasant pool and a garden that’s perfectly located to watch sunsets, and the beach is just a short wander away.
Hotel Miss MaryHOTEL$$$
(map;%8-514-8454; www.hotelmissmary.blogspot.com; Bahía Suroeste; s/d incl breakfast COP$140,000/220,000; aW)
Miss Mary provides nicely dressed-up rooms right on the idyllic beach at Bahía Suroeste, each with large patios and hammocks. There’s cable TV and ever-elusive hot water. It’s comfortable, the rooms with sea views are great and there are several beachfront eating options within easy walking distance.
Sol Caribe ProvidenciaHOTEL$$$
(map;%8-514-8230; Aguadulce; r per person incl breakfast & dinner from COP$190,000; aWs)
Following the island’s kaleidoscopic color scheme, this bright-yellow hotel is the most upmarket in Aguadulce. There’s a pleasant seaside restaurant, clean and spacious rooms with nice hardwood furniture, patios and colorful Caribbean art. With the beach right outside, it’s a great choice for Aguadulce.
5Eating
El Divino NiñoSEAFOOD$$
(map; Bahía Suroeste; mains COP$20,000-44,000; hnoon-6pm)
It’s easy to see why this restaurant on Providencia’s best beach is so popular – palm-shaded tables dot the sand with waves lapping at your feet, while the teams serve up fresh fish, lobster, crab and conch dishes. If in doubt, order the superb seafood plato mixto. The loud music is a shame at such a peaceful spot, but hey, you’re in Colombia.
Salt WataSEAFOOD$$
(map;%311-253-5087; Bahía Suroeste; mains COP$20,000-60,000; h8am-10pm, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Wed-Mon)
With just two tables outside on the terrace and two more inside the brightly lit dining room-kitchen, this tiny place serves up traditional Creole seafood dishes from a large menu that includes ceviche, sandwiches and tacos.
oCafé StudioSEAFOOD$$$
(map;%8-514-9076; Bahía Suroeste; mains COP$30,000-60,000; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat)
Providencia’s most popular restaurant is run by a Canadian–Raizal couple and the food is generally delightful, both memorable and reasonably priced given where you are. It gets fearsomely crowded come the evening so get here in good time to get a table, or try visiting at lunch to avoid the rush.
oCaribbean PlaceSEAFOOD$$$
(map;Donde Martin; %311-287-7238; Aguadulce; mains COP$40,000-78,000; h12:30-4pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat)
Follow the wine-bottle-strewn pathway (a deliberate decorative feature, now rather excessive) that leads to this charming place, and discover one of the island’s culinary highlights. Though you’ll pay handsomely for the seafood here, Bogotá-trained chef Martin Quintero has succeeded in producing serious food in a casual atmosphere. Highlights include black crab cooked many ways, crawfish, shrimp and various seafood casseroles.
Restaurante Deep BlueCARIBBEAN$$$
(map;%321-215-4818, 321-458-2099; Maracaibo; mains COP$28,000-60,000; h7am-10pm)
Not only do its waterfront tables have gorgeous views towards Cayo Cangrejo, this upmarket place also boasts a very impressive and inventive menu, taking in crunchy coconut prawns, garlic crab claws and a superb mixed seafood platter for two. Sadly, service can be on the slow side.
Don OlivoSEAFOOD$$$
(map;%310-230-5260; Santa Catalina; mains COP$35,000-65,000; hnoon-5pm Wed-Mon, dinner by reservation)
Don Olivo hails from Mauritania and delights in preparing his morning’s catch for lunch, which he serves up on the terrace of his seafront home on the island of Santa Catalina. The menu changes daily and dishes include conch ceviche and lobster in Olivo’s own secret sauce, though it’s the warm welcome and conversation that make this place particularly special.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Providencia may be the sleepiest corner of Colombia, but it’s still Colombia, so you’ll often be able to find the odd impromptu beach party or some loud music after dark. Ask around, and if in doubt head to Roland Roots Bar or wander around Santa Isabel and see what the locals are up to.
Roland Roots BarBAR
(map; Bahía Manzanillo; h10am-midnight, until 2am Fri & Sat)
This travelers’ icon encapsulates island life in one ridiculously atmospheric beach bar, complete with booths fashioned from bamboo under ramshackle thatched roofs spread among the sands, all set to a booming reggae soundtrack. Roland is an island legend for his late-night parties and his coco locos – jazzed-up piña coladas served in coconuts. There is also excellent fresh seafood (mains COP$20,000 to COP$35,000).
8Information
The island’s hospital and only gas station can be found in Santa Isabel.
The island’s only two ATMs can also be found in Santa Isabel.
Banco Agrario (Santa Isabel)
Banco de Bogotá (Santa Isabel)
8Getting There & Away
Satena and Searca both fly between San Andrés and Providencia (round-trip from COP$400,000) twice daily in low season, with several more flights in high season. It’s important to buy your ticket in advance in the high season and note that due to the small planes used on this route, the luggage allowance is 10kg; you’ll need to pay for any extra, though it’s not expensive and generally no issue to do so.
The Conocemos Navegando catamaran connects Providencia to San Andrés daily, except Tuesday, in both directions (COP$300,000 return, three hours).
8Getting Around
Providencia has just one circular road around it, with a few offshoots down to the beach or into the hillside. Renting a scooter (COP$70,000 for 24 hours) or a golf buggy (COP$130,000 for eight hours) from Providencia Tours (%314-310-1326; Aguadulce) is highly recommended to help make the most of your time. Note that local road signs use the English names (South West Bay, Fresh Water Bay, Manchaneel Bay), rather than the far more colloquially used Spanish ones, which can be confusing.