%6 / Pop 299,712 / Elev 1640m
Armenia feels more like a big town than a departmental capital, far more slow-paced than its coffee-country rivals Manizales and Pereira. There is not much in the way of attractions here for visitors. Devastated by an earthquake in 1999 that flattened much of the city center, Armenia has never fully recovered. The center of the city is makeshift – check out the hastily reconstructed cathedral, made of prefab concrete slabs – and the de facto center has moved north of downtown, along Av Bolívar.
Most travelers will pass through Armenia only long enough to change buses; however, the city has a fine museum and excellent botanical gardens, which make it interesting enough for a day or so.
1Sights
Jardín Botánico del QuindíoGARDENS
(%6-742-7254; www.jardinbotanicoquindio.org; Km3 Via al Valle, Calarcá; adult/child COP$30,000/15,000; h9am-4pm)
Armenia’s excellent 15-hectare botanical garden has the best mariposario in the Zona Cafetera. The 680-sq-meter butterfly house is shaped like a giant butterfly and houses up to 2000 of the insects. There’s also a 22m-tall lookout tower, plus ferns, orchids, a guadua (bamboo) forest and an extensive collection of palms. To get here, take the bus marked ‘Mariposario’ (COP$2000, 40 minutes) from Plaza de la Constitución in central Armenia or along Av Bolívar. A taxi will cost around COP$22,000.
Admission includes the services of a guide – reserve in advance for a tour in English. The best time to visit is in the morning when the butterflies are most active.
Museo del Oro QuimbayaMUSEUM
(%6-749-8169; museoquimbaya@banrep.gov.co; Av Bolívar 40N-80; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) F
Check out the bling-bling of the pre-Columbian Quimbaya culture at this excellent gold museum that also houses a fine ceramics collection. It’s in the Centro Cultural, 5km northeast of the center. Grab bus 8 or 12 northbound on Av Bolívar.
4Sleeping
Hotel Jardin CafeteraHOTEL$
(%6-735-8575; hoteljardincafetero@gmail.com; Calle 19 No 19-44; s/d incl breakfast COP$45,000/70,000; W)
Close to the heart of downtown, this brand-new hotel is good value. While the rooms don’t have much character and are not particularly spacious, they are comfortable, spotless and well equipped. Staff are friendly.
Wanderlust HostelHOSTEL$$
(%6-735-8686, 314-588-0182; www.wanderlusttrips.com; Carrera 14 No 1-24; dm COP$25,000-30,000, r COP$90,000)
A friendly new hostel with top facilities and excellent service. Dorms are bright and comfortable with brand-new bedding, but the best part about the place are the attractive common areas including a large courtyard out the back with hammocks and a modern lounge/work area. The private rooms at the front of the building are susceptible to street noise.
Armenia HotelHOTEL$$$
(%6-746-0099; www.armeniahotelsa.com; Av Bolívar No 8N-67; s/d/tr COP$239,000/295,000/364,000; aiWs)
The best hotel in town, the Armenia has nine floors built around a vaulted interior atrium with a glass ceiling. The rooms are spacious, decked out with stylish guadua (bamboo) furniture, and many offer great views of the Cordillera Central or the city. There is a heated outdoor pool and a full-service restaurant.
5Eating
El SolarCOLOMBIAN$$
(%6-749-3990; restaurante-elsolar@hotmail.com; Via Circasia, Km2; mains COP$21,000-36,000; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)
Just a few hundred meters from the zona rosa is this top-notch grill restaurant with funky decor. Kids’ bikes, umbrellas and empty wine bottles dangle from the ceiling, and bamboo shoots creep in from the outside. Friday night is a big night here.
(%6-749-5501; Carrera 13 No 14N-47; mains COP$31,000-52,000; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun)
If you spend any time at all in the Zona Cafetera, it is highly probable that you will take at least a couple of rides in a classic WWII Willys jeep.
These veterans don’t just look great parked in formation around the town plaza – they are still the main form of transportation in rural parts of the Zona Cafetera. Willys are used to transport everything from passengers to pigs, platano (plantain), furniture and, of course, coffee. And, unlike buses, a Willys jeep is never really full – don’t be surprised if your driver packs in 16 passengers or more.
The first jeeps to arrive were army surplus models sent from the US in 1950. In order to sell the vehicles to farmers in the Zona Cafetera, a kind of traveling jeep show was created: expert drivers maneuvered the vehicles up and down the stairs in front of the town churches and moved loads through obstacle courses in the plazas. The locals were sold instantly – and so began a love affair that lasts to this day.
Willys jeeps are such an integral part of rural Colombian culture that a ‘yipao’ – which means a jeep full – is a legitimate measure of agricultural products in Colombia (it’s about 20 to 25 sacks of oranges).
6Drinking & Nightlife
oLa Fonda FlorestaBAR
(Av Centenario No 29N-1762; h8pm-3am Fri & Sat)
Set up like a traditional Antioquian village with antiques hanging from the ceiling and party lights everywhere, this popular bar draws a mixed crowd of people, who come to sit around small tables and drink. Once suitably hammered, they then turn the entire place into one big dance floor. It’s a 10-minute taxi ride from the center.
Café Jesús MartínCAFE
(map; www.cafejesusmartin.com; Calle 15N No 12-57; coffee from COP$2500; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri)
Just like the main branch in Salento (www.cafejesusmartin.com; Carrera 6 No 6-14; h8am-8pm) this little cafe serves up cups of outstanding locally grown coffee.
8Information
4-72 (Carrera 15 No 22-38; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office in the center.
Banco AV Villas (cnr Carrera 14 & Calle 15N) ATM in the north of the city.
Banco de Bogotá (cnr Calle 21 & Carrera 14) ATM on Plaza de Bolívar in the center.
Punto de Información Turística (Corporación de Cultura y Turismo; Plaza de Bolívar; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Outside the Gobernación del Quindío building in the center.
8Getting There & Around
Aeropuerto Internacional El Edén (AXM; %6-747-9400; www.aeropuertoeleden.com; La Tebaida) is 15km southwest of Armenia near the town of La Tebaida. A taxi will set you back around COP$26,000. Spirit (www.spirit.com) has direct flights to Fort Lauderdale, Florida.
The bus terminal (www.terminalarmenia.com; Calle 35 No 20-68) is 1.5km southwest of the center and can be reached by frequent city buses that run along Carrera 19 (COP$1800).
There are plenty of buses to Bogotá (COP$60,000, eight hours), Medellín (COP$45,000, six hours) and Cali (COP$22,000, 3½ hours). Regular minibuses run to Pereira (COP$8000, one hour) and Manizales (COP$17,000, 2½ hours).
During the day the downtown area is full of merchants and shoppers but after dark security is an issue. Taxis are a cheap and secure way to get to your destination. The minimum fare is COP$4200.
Charge your camera batteries – this is one photo op you don’t want to miss. An important part of Armenia’s annual birthday celebration, the Yipao (hOct) is a fantastic parade in which local working jeeps are loaded down with tonnes of plantain, coffee and household goods, and paraded through town – sometimes on two wheels.
Tiny Quindío department packs plenty into its modest boundaries with enchanting coffee farms, phenomenal vistas and fun theme parks that appeal to visitors of all ages.
Coffee-farm tourism began here, and there are hundreds of fincas (farms) catering to a variety of tastes, mostly Colombian. Numerous publications catalog and rate them. The Armenia tourist office has a lengthy list of options. Also check out Haciendas del Café (www.clubhaciendasdelcafe.com), which books accommodations on farms around Quindío.
1Sights & Activities
RecucaPLANTATION
(%310-830-3779; www.recuca.com; Vereda Callelarga, Calarcá; tours COP$21,000; h9am-3pm)
This tourism-oriented coffee farm offers tours that provide insight into life on a finca. Visitors get to throw on traditional clothes, strap on a basket and hit the plantation to pick their own beans before returning to the hacienda to learn about the coffee-making process. You can also learn some traditional dances. It’s more than a little cheesy but is also good fun.
It’s best to reserve in advance if you want lunch (COP$17,000).
From Armenia, take any bus (COP$2100) from the terminal to Río Verde and ask to be let off at the entrance to the farm. From here it is a 2km walk through some plantain farms or ask the watchman to call for a jeep (COP$8000 per vehicle). A taxi from Armenia should cost around COP$30,000.
CaficulturTOURS
(Hane Coffee; %314-761-0199; www.hanecoffee.com; Finca La Alsacia, Buenavista; tours COP$30,000; h8am-8pm)
In the small town of Buenavista, Don Leo runs one of the most informative coffee tours in Quindío on his family farm just outside the urban area. He is an affable and enthusiastic host whose love for coffee is legendary. The tour runs for about three hours and includes a traditional breakfast or lunch depending on what time you arrive.
Call in advance to reserve your tour and Don Leo will meet you in the town plaza.
4Sleeping
(%311-389-1806, 310-422-6335; www.quindiofincavillanora.com; Vereda la Granja, Quimbaya; s/d incl breakfast & dinner COP$300,000/400,000; s)
Located between Armenia and Pereira, this coffee, avocado and guava farm offers comfortable accommodations in a beautiful old white-and-red-trimmed farmhouse that has a wide wraparound verandah. The owners run both the lodging and the farm, providing personalized attention to guests. It’s a tranquil option that is full of character. Staff can arrange a private transfer from Armenia or Pereira airports.
A taxi from Quimbaya costs COP$6000.
Hacienda CombiaFARMSTAY$$$
(%310-250-9719, 314-682-5396; www.combia.com.co; s/d incl breakfast from COP$196,000/244,000; iWs)
This hotel on a coffee farm near Jardín Botánico del Quindío has fantastic mountain views and top-notch facilities, including an infinity pool and spa. It doesn’t have the intimacy of some smaller farms, but you won’t find better comfort for the price and the coffee here is the real deal – it’s been produced by the same family for four generations.
The rooms in the old farmhouse have more character than those in the new wing. There is a spacious open-air restaurant serving typical meals. Even if you don’t plan on staying, Combia is worth a visit for the very informative, high-end coffee tour (guests/nonguests COP$93,000/115,000). A taxi here from Armenia costs around COP$35,000.
8Getting There & Around
Quindío’s bus network is comprehensive and you can get to most local attractions using public transportation from Armenia.
%6 / Pop 4000 / Elev 1900m
Set amid gorgeous green mountains 24km northeast of Armenia, this small town survives on coffee production, trout farming and, increasingly, tourists, who are drawn by its quaint streets, typical paisa architecture and its proximity to the spectacular Valle de Cocora. It was founded in 1850, and is one of the oldest towns in Quindío.
The main drag is Calle Real (Carrera 6), which is full of artesanías (local craft stalls) and restaurants. At the end of the street are stairs leading up to Alto de la Cruz, a hill topped with a cross. From here you’ll see the verdant Valle de Cocora and the mountains that surround it. If the skies are clear (usually only early in the morning), you can spot the snowcapped tops of the volcanoes on the horizon.
2Activities
oSalento CyclingMOUNTAIN BIKING
(map; %316-535-1792, 311-333-5936; www.salentocycling.com; Calle 7 No 1-04, Plantation House; rides COP$120,000-180,000)
Offers excellent full-day mountain-biking adventures that take you up to the Andean divide, from where you’ll cruise down the far side to the biggest wax palm forest in the region before being brought back up to the peak in a truck for the ride all the way back down the mountain to Salento. Includes a picnic lunch with amazing views.
There’s also a high-adrenaline single-track route back to town via the Valle de Cocora for experienced riders. The affable manager is straight out of a late-’90s stoner comedy, but is serious when it comes to organization and safety.
Kasaguadua Natural ReserveHIKING
(%313-889-8273; www.kasaguaduanaturalreserve.org; Via Vereda Palestina)
About a 30-minute walk from town, this private nature reserve protects 14 hectares of tropical Andean cloud forest. The enthusiastic owners lead informative guided hikes along several trails – participants are asked to make a donation. Accommodations in dorms (COP$33,000) and innovative elevated cabañas (COP$82,000) surrounded by forest are available if you want to spend the night out among the nature.
A private jeep out here costs around COP$15,000.
Ecologic Horse RidingHORSEBACK RIDING
(Marisela & Paola; %320-688-3112, 321-382-1886)
Run by a dynamic team of two sisters who know the area in great detail, this well-organized operation offers horseback riding trips to waterfalls and coffee farms.
Los AmigosTRADITIONAL SPORT
(map; Carrera 4 No 3-32; h3-11pm)
If you are in the mood to drink beer and throw discs at gunpowder, do as the locals do and head to this atmospheric club for tejo (a type of sport that involves throwing metal discs into holes in a wooden target box). Wear your best mustache!
TTours
A number of local coffee farms run tours for visitors keen to learn about the process. Recommended farms are in the rural area near Vereda Palestina. It’s about a 45-minute, mostly downhill walk from town. From the central park in Salento, walk north for a block, then west across the yellow bridge and keep following the main road.
From there, it’s possible to walk for 30 minutes down into the valley to Boquia on the Armenia–Salento road and take the regular bus service back to Salento.
Scheduled jeeps for visitors (COP$3000) now run from the plaza in Salento to the coffee farms hourly from 9:30am to 3:30pm. Note that if you don’t already have a tour reservation, drivers may try to push you into visiting their preferred farm. Be firm and insist on your choice. Alternatively there is a public jeep service that runs from Salento to Armenia via the back road through Vereda Palestina every couple of hours, which will drop you at the entrance to any of the farms.
A private jeep from Salento to the farms near Vereda Palestina costs around COP$27,000.
oEl OcasoTOURS
(%310-451-7194, 310-451-7329; www.fincaelocasosalento.com; Vereda Palestina; tours COP$15,000,)
The most polished coffee tour around Salento is set on an expansive farm with fine coffee bushes and a pretty farmhouse. You’ll visit the plantation and then follow the process of preparing the beans for market. Tours run for 90 minutes and are offered hourly from 9am to 4pm. All are in English except the Spanish-language tours (10am and 3pm).
If you’re really into coffee, you might want to check out the extended three-hour tour (COP$55,000).
4Sleeping
TralalaHOSTEL$
(map;%314-850-5543; www.hosteltralalasalento.com; Carrera 7 No 6-45; dm COP$25,000-30,000, r COP$70,000-80,000, without bathroom COP$60,000, apt COP$100,000; W)
In a brightly renovated colonial house, this small, well-run hostel was clearly created by someone who knows exactly what travelers want. Facilities include comfortable mattresses, piping-hot showers, two kitchens, an extensive DVD library, fast wi-fi and even rubber-boot rental for muddy treks. It’s welcoming, spotlessly clean and well organized.
Coffee Tree HostelHOSTEL$$
(map;%318-390-4415; Carrera 9 No 9-06; dm COP$35,000, r from COP$130,000)
The poshest hostel in town, Coffee Tree well and truly earns its ‘boutique hostel’ label with three floors of spacious, well-decorated rooms offering great views alongside a bright, graceful social area with high ceilings. Add top-quality service and a lovely garden and you’ve got a real winner.
Hotel Salento PlazaHOTEL$$
(map;%6-759-3066; www.salentoplaza.com; Carrera 7 No 6-27; r COP$130,000-180,000)
Just half a block from the plaza, this small hotel set in a lovely traditional-style L-shaped house with pale-yellow trim overlooking a manicured garden is an absolute treat. Hardwood floors, king beds and inviting bathrooms make it an excellent deal.
Las Terrazas de SalentoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map;%317-430-4637; cim@une.net.co; Carrera 4 No 1-30; r COP$185,000-195,000)
Perched high on a hilltop overlooking town, this fantastic new hotel has elegant rooms with polished wood floors and private balconies. It feels far removed from the bustle of town but is just a short walk down the hill into the heart of the action. Downstairs there’s an appealing open-plan social area for getting to know other guests.
5Eating & Drinking
BrunchAMERICAN$
(map;%311-757-8082; Calle 6 No 3-25; mains COP$9500-19,500; h6:30am-9pm)
Get your gringo on at this hugely popular little diner serving big portions of American classics to homesick travelers. Take your pick from excellent burgers, wings, burritos or nachos and top it off with one of the diner’s famous peanut-butter brownies or gut-busting milkshakes. Great for refueling after a long hike.
Rincón del LucyCOLOMBIAN$
(map;Carrera 6 No 4-02; breakfast/lunch COP$6000/8000; h7am-4pm)
Sit next to perfect strangers at crowded tables to eat the best-value meal in town: fish, beef or chicken served with rice, beans, plantain and soup. Also a good spot for a filling breakfast before a hike.
LuciernagaBISTRO$$
(map;%311-438-4281; www.luciernaga.com.co; Carrera 3 No 9-19; mains COP$15,000-28,000; h7am-late Wed-Mon, 7-11am Tue)
Tuck into delicious international cuisine out on the deck or in front of the open fireplace in this fantastic modern bistro. On the diverse menu you’ll find burgers, wings and other comfort foods alongside more gourmet offerings and vegan options. A fully stocked bar, great cocktails and live music make it worth sticking around after the plates are cleared away.
Upstairs the hostel has smallish rooms (dorm COP$25,000 to COP$28,000, room COP$75,000 to COP$80,000) equipped with first-class pillows and mattresses. Those on the far side have fine mountain views.
La ElianaINTERNATIONAL$$
(map;Carrera 2 No 6-65; mains COP$15,000-20,000; h1-9pm)
Prepares gourmet pizzas, pasta and, if you’re in the mood for something different, real Indian curries all served on a deck overlooking the garden. The portions are generous and prices are very reasonable for the quality involved. There are also a couple of good-value rooms for rent out the back.
Billar Danubio HallBAR
(map; Carrera 6 No 4-30; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat & Sun)
This is every Latin small-town fantasy rolled into one. Old men in non-ironic ponchos and cowboy hats sip aguardiente (anise-flavored liquor) as they play dominos. The clientele breaks into ragged harmony whenever an anthem of heartbreaking personal relevance is played. It’s a bastion of unreconstructed male behavior, so women may be treated as a curiosity, but these are total gentlemen.
8Information
There are a couple of ATMs on the plaza.
Banco Agrario de Colombia (Carrera 7)
Bancolombia (Carrera 6)
La Esquina Net (cnr Calle 5 & Carrera 4; per hour COP$1400; h9:30am-10pm) One block from the plaza.
8Getting There & Away
Minibuses run to/from Armenia every 20 minutes (COP$4200, 45 minutes, 6am to 8pm). Armenia buses run along a route through the town and pass the plaza before leaving from the bus office (Carrera 2 No 4-30) on Carrera 2. On weekends you’ll have to go direct to the bus office. You can also take a taxi direct from Armenia (30 minutes, COP$60,000).
There is a direct bus service from the terminal in Pereira to Salento (COP$7000, 1½ hours) at 6:30am, 8:40am, 10am, 11:40am, 1:40pm, 3:10pm, 4:40pm and 6:40pm during the week. Buses leave the transport office in Salento for Pereira at 7:50am, 10am, 11:30am, 1pm, 2:50pm, 4:30pm, 5:50pm and 8pm. On the weekends buses ply this route every hour. Coming from Pereira, you can also take an Armenia-bound bus to Las Flores and cross the road to grab a Salento-bound bus from Armenia.
Flota Occidental map; (%321-760-6629; Carrera 2 No 4-40) runs four express vans per day direct between Medellín and Salento (COP$45,000, seven hours). Vans depart from the Terminal Sur in Medelllín at 9am, 11am and 1pm. From Salento vans leave the transportation office at 10am, noon and 4pm. Buy tickets in advance to be sure of getting a spot.
%6 / Pop 13,520
A short distance from Salento, slow-paced Filandia is a traditional coffee town that is every bit as charming as its popular neighbor, but gets a fraction of the visitors. It has some of the best-preserved architecture in the region, a panoramic lookout, fine handicrafts and lush nature reserves full of wildlife.
1Sights
Colina IluminadaVIEWPOINT
(Km 1 Via Quimbaya; COP$8000; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun)
On a hill just outside town, this impressive 19m-tall wooden structure offers breathtaking views over three departments and, on a clear day, Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados.
Centro de Interpretación de la Cestería de BejucosMUSEUM
(%310-380-8247; cesteriacafetera@hotmail.com; cnr Carrera 5 & Calle 6, Casa del Artesano; h9am-6pm) F
Filandia is famous for its woven baskets, an art that can be traced back to those once used by coffee pickers to collect the harvest, and this museum run by a cooperative of local artisans provides an in-depth look at the traditions of the craft. You’ll learn about the raw materials as well as the weaving process, and there are some high-quality finished products for sale.
If you want to try your hand, weaving workshops (from COP$20,000) can be arranged with advance notice.
TTours
TuracoTOURS
(%315-328-0558; turaco@hotmail.es; Calle 7 No 4-51; h9am-noon & 2-5pm, closed Tue)
An enthusiastic local tour operator that runs guided treks into Cañon del Río Barbas and Reserva Natural Bremen – La Popa, as well as trips to waterfalls and local coffee farms. Expect to pay around COP$100,000 for a group of up to five hikers. Add COP$20,000 for transportation in a jeep to the reserves.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal Colina de LluviaHOSTEL$
(%321-715-6245; aguadelluvia@outlook.com; Calle 5 No 4-08; dm COP$25,000, s COP$40,000-60,000, d COP$60,000-80,000; W)
This well-decorated small hostel a couple of blocks from the park has bright rooms with polished wooden floors and a nice courtyard social area. All prices include breakfast.
La Posada del CompadreGUESTHOUSE$$
(%316-629-2804; info@laposadadelcompadre.com; Carrera 6 No 8-06; r/ste incl breakfast COP$90,000/180,000; W)
Set in a lovingly restored colonial mansion surrounding an elegant internal garden, this tranquil hotel offers real value. The views from the back porch over the surrounding mountains are spectacular. For couples it’s worth splashing out on the spacious suite on the 2nd floor, which has amazing panoramas right from the bed.
(Carrera 7 No 8-01; mains COP$23,000-34,000; hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
Run by a talented young local chef and his Kiwi partner, this hip restaurant serves up some of the best food in the Zona Cafetera, with innovative takes on traditional Colombian cuisine made with fresh ingredients from local farms. The menu is constantly changing but it’s all delicious and very reasonable considering the quality.
8Getting There & Away
Buses run to/from Armenia (COP$5400, 45 minutes) every 20 minutes until 8pm. There is also a direct service to Pereira (COP$6300, one hour) every hour until 7pm. Coming from Salento, you can pick up a bus at Las Flores where the Salento road joins the main highway.
In a country full of beautiful landscapes, Cocora is one of the most striking. It stretches east of Salento into the lower reaches of PNN Los Nevados, with a broad green valley framed by sharp peaks. Everywhere you’ll see palma de cera (wax palm), the largest palm in the world (up to 60m tall). It’s Colombia’s national tree. Set amid the misty green hills, they are breathtaking to behold.
The most popular walk is the 2½-hour walk from the small hamlet of Cocora to the Reserva Natural Acaime (incl refreshment COP$6000). As you arrive in Cocora, the trail is on the right-hand side as you walk into the valley and away from Salento. Visitors may be charged an environmental fee of COP$2000 at the entrance to the path but it is not always collected.
The first part of the trail is through grassland, the second through dense cloud forest. At Acaime you can get a hot chocolate (with cheese), and you’ll see plenty of hummingbirds feeding. Basic accommodations are available.
About 1km before you reach Acaime, there’s a turnoff to Finca La Montaña, an energy-sapping one-hour hike up a fairly steep mountainside, from where you can take an easy downhill trail back to Cocora (1½ hours). It is worth the extra effort to complete the loop, rather than tracking back along the same path, as the trail offers spectacular views of the valley from above and takes you right among the wax palms.
4Sleeping
oReserva El CairoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%321-649-3439; www.reservaelcairo.com; Km 3 via Cocora, Vereda La Playa; s/d from COP$184,000/216,000)
Coffee-country accommodations don’t get much better than this. The elegant rooms here are set in a charming traditional farmhouse in lush gardens, and the surrounding nature reserve contains some of the last tracts of primary forest in the valley. It’s great for bird-watching and more adventurous pursuits.
8Getting There & Away
Jeeps leave Salento’s main square for Cocora (COP$3800, 30 minutes) at 6:10am, 7:30am and then hourly until 5:30pm, coming back an hour later. There are additional services on weekends. You can also contract a jeep privately for COP$31,000.