Medellín & Zona Cafetera
Medellín
Around Medellín
Guatapé
Piedra del Peñol
Santa Fe de Antioquia
Jardín
Río Claro
Zona Cafetera
Manizales
Around Manizales
Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados
Pereira
Termales de Santa Rosa
Termales San Vicente
Santuario Otún Quimbaya
Parque Ucumarí
Armenia
Around Armenia
Salento
Filandia
Valle de Cocora
Medellín & Zona Cafetera
Why Go?
Welcome to país paisa – paisa country – a vibrant region made up of coffee plantations and flower farms, lush cloud forest, dynamic student towns and the busy city of Medellín. It is one of Colombia’s most dynamic regions, and is not to be missed.
In Medellín, the country’s second-largest metropolis, towers soar skyward in the center of a deep valley, concrete examples of the ambition that has placed the city at the vanguard of Colombia’s revival. It is an attractive city that seduces most travelers instantly, with its just-perfect climate, great restaurants, museums, public artwork and thumping discos.
Further south is the Zona Cafetera, a rich tapestry of historic villages, charming coffee farms, fantastic nature reserves and grand mountain peaks. Coffee is more than a cash crop here – it is a way of life. You’ll never look at your morning cup the same way again.
When to Go
- Jan–Mar Clear conditions expose the peaks of Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados.
- Aug The streets of Medellín explode with the vibrant colors of the Feria de las Flores.
- Oct–Dec Coffee pickers converge on farms throughout the Zona Cafetera for the main harvest.
Best Places to Stay
Medellín & Zona Cafetera Highlights
1 Valle de Cocora Craning your neck to see the tops of the majestic wax palms.
2 Medellín Riding the Metrocable high above the rooftops before sampling the city’s many fine restaurants and bars.
3 Zona Cafetera Heading out into the plantation to pick your own coffee.
4 Termales San Vicente Bathing in piping-hot thermal springs high in the mountains.
5 Río Claro Spending the night in your hotel room open to the jungle, the river roaring below.
6 Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados Hiking to a mystic lagoon beneath majestic mountains.
7 Piedra del Peñol Scaling the rock for amazing views over the Embalse Guatapé.
8 Jardín Sipping a mug of local arabica in the vibrant central plaza.
National, State & Regional Parks
The big daddy of national parks here is Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados, which soars at more than 5000m. East of Pereira are the rarely visited Santuario Otún Quimbaya and Parque Ucumarí. Further south, don’t miss the stunning Valle de Cocora, near Salento, with its soaring wax palms.
8Getting There & Away
Medellín airport is the main international hub of the area. Pereira and Armenia airports also both receive international flights. The region is well serviced by buses to Bogotá, Cali and the Caribbean coast.
Avoid long-distance road travel during torrential rains (most likely during April/May and September/October) as landslides are common.
MEDELLÍN
%4 / Pop 3 million / Elev 1494m
Medellín packs the punch of a city twice its size. Situated in a narrow valley, its skyline reaches for the heavens, setting high-rise apartment and office buildings against a backdrop of jagged peaks in every direction. Its pleasant climate gives it its nickname – the City of Eternal Spring – and the moderate temperatures put a spring in the locals’ steps, at work and at play. It’s a bustling place of industry and commerce, especially textile manufacturing and exported cut flowers. On weekends Medellín lets its hair down, its many discos attracting the beautiful people.
The city sprawls north and south along the valley floor; slums hug the upper reaches of the hills. True to its paisa (people of Antioquia) roots, Medellín affects an indifference to the rest of Colombia, putting on metropolitan airs and looking overseas for inspiration for its next great public-works projects.
History
Spaniards first arrived in the Aburrá Valley in the 1540s, but Medellín was not founded until 1616. Historians believe that many early settlers were Spanish Jews fleeing the Inquisition. They divided the land into small haciendas (country estates), which they farmed themselves – something that was very different from the slave-based plantation culture that dominated much of Colombia. With their focus on self-reliance, these early paisas came to be known as hard workers with a fierce independent streak – traits they’ve exported throughout the Zona Cafetera.
Medellín became the capital of Antioquia in 1826 but long remained a provincial backwater, which explains why its colonial buildings are neither sumptuous nor numerous. The city’s rapid growth began only at the start of the 20th century, when the arrival of the railroad, together with a highly profitable boom in coffee production, quickly transformed the city. Mine owners and coffee barons invested their profits in a nascent textile industry, and their gamble paid off. Within a few decades, Medellín had become a large metropolitan city.
By the 1980s the city’s entrepreneurial spirit was showing its dark side. Under the violent leadership of Pablo Escobar, Medellín became the capital of the world’s cocaine business. Gun battles were common, and the city’s homicide rate was among the highest on the planet. The beginning of the end of the violence came with Escobar’s death in 1993, and today Medellín is one of the most accessible destinations in the country.
1Sights
oLa Comuna 13AREA
Once one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in Medellín, the Comuna 13, which clings to the mountainside above the San Javier metro station, has undergone an impressive transformation in recent times and is now considered safe to visit. The focal point of a trip to the comuna is the area around the escaleras electricas, the outdoor escalators that provide access to homes in marginalized barrios that were formerly isolated from the city below.
Alongside the Metrocable lines, they are one of the icons of the rebirth of Medellín. The area surrounding the six sets of escalators is awash with murals and graffiti, while at the top there is a lookout and a boardwalk offering fine views of the bustling city below.
In order to fully understand the violence and difficulties that have plagued the area and its impressive reformation, it’s a great idea to hike the comuna with a local guide. Recommended guides can be arranged at Casa Kolacho (%4-252-0035; casakolacho@gmail.com; Carrera 97 No 43-41; tours COP$30,000) near the San Javier metro.
To reach the escaleras take either bus 221i or 225i from the stop by the traffic lights on the right as you leave the San Javier metro. Buy an integrated ticket at the station where you board the metro. Alternatively a taxi from the metro costs just COP$5000.
oMuseo Casa de la MemoriaMUSEUM
(%4-385-5555; www.museocasadelamemoria.gov.co; Calle 51 No 36-66; 
h9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) 
F
This harrowing museum dedicated to the urban conflict in Medellín is a must-visit for travelers wanting to fully understand the city. There are interesting displays on the geopolitical origins of the conflict, but the most moving parts are the life-size video screens, where survivors recount their experiences as if they were standing in front of you, and the dark room out the back that pays homage to local residents killed in the violence.
oCerro NutibaraVIEWPOINT
(map Google map; %4-385-8017, 4-260-2416; h6am-11pm)
On top of this 80m-tall hill, 2km southwest of the city center, sits the kitschy Pueblito Paisa, a miniature version of a typical Antioquian township. Views across the city from the adjacent platform are stunning. Next to the lookout you’ll find the Museo de la Ciudad map Google map; ( Cerro Nutibara; COP$2000; h10am-6pm), a small museum dedicated to the history of Medellín, which often showcases old photographs of the city.
Take a taxi to the top and walk back down to check out the Parque de las Esculturas, which contains a handful of modern abstract sculptures by South American artists.
Casa Museo Pedro Nel GómezMUSEUM
(map Google map; %4-444-2633; Carrera 51B No 85-24; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) F
Located in the house where the artist lived and worked, this fine museum has an extensive collection of pieces by prolific local painter Pedro Nel Gómez (1899–1984), as well as occasional major exhibitions. It also organizes painting workshops for visitors (COP$80,000 per group) where you can take classes in the studio of the artist, which is adorned with a wonderful mural. Book in advance.
Many of the houses lining the road up to the museum from the neighborhood of Moravia have had reproductions of works by Nel Gómez painted on their facades – it’s worth walking up rather than taking a taxi or bus.
Museo de Arte Moderno de MedellínGALLERY
(%4-444-2622; www.elmamm.org; Carrera 44 No 19A-100; adult/student COP$10,000/7000; h9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)
Set around a refurbished industrial building in Ciudad del Río, ‘El MAMM’ showcases changing exhibitions of contemporary art. The large new wing houses pieces from the permanent collection, which includes many works by local painter Débora Arango. It also has a cinema showing independent films.
Monumento a la RazaMONUMENT
(map Google map; Calle 44, Centro Administrativo La Alpujarra)
Rodrigo Arenas Betancur, Colombia’s favorite designer of monuments, has a number of pieces around Medellín, but the most impressive work is this one in front of the municipal building that tells the story of Antioquia in dramatically twisting metal.
Plazoleta de las EsculturasPLAZA
(map Google map; Plaza Botero;)
This public space in front of the Museo de Antioquia is home to 23 large curvaceous bronze sculptures by renowned local artist Fernando Botero, including some of his most iconic works.
El Cerro de MoraviaHILL
(map Google map; Barrio Moravia)
The densely populated neighborhood of Moravia was once Medellín’s municipal rubbish dump with an open-air mountain of trash surrounded by a large shanty town whose residents once rummaged through the detritus. However, it has since been transformed into a model urban center, with the mound of trash turned into a foliage-covered hillside. You can take a guided tour of the neighborhood and find out about the fascinating transformation by contacting the Centro de Desarollo Cultural de Moravia map Google map; ( %ext 108 4-213-2809; www.centroculturalmoravia.org; Calle 82A No 50-25; hby appointment) F.
While the hill now has a green hue and looks natural, underneath the pile of rubbish still smolders and locals say it’s a couple of degrees hotter here than elsewhere in the city.
Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe UribeNOTABLE BUILDING
(map Google map; %4-320-9780; www.culturantioquia.gov.co; Carrera 51 No 52-03; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) F
Adjacent to the Berrío metro station, this striking black-and-white Gothic Revival building designed by Belgian architect Agustín Goovaerts is one of Medellín’s most interesting landmarks. Construction on the project began in 1925 although only a quarter of the original design was completed. Visitors are free to stroll along its majestic corridors and through the ornate rooms, some of which hold rotating art exhibitions.
If you want to take a peak inside the majestic dome, come on Tuesday or Thursday afternoon when there are free international films shown in the interior at 4pm. Downstairs you can get access to the lovely central courtyard, which features a fountain surrounded by azaleas.
Jardín BotánicoGARDENS
(map Google map; www.botanicomedellin.org; Calle 73 No 51D-14; h9am-5pm) F
One of Medellín’s nicest green spaces, the botanic gardens cover 14 hectares, showcase 600 species of trees and plants, and include a lake, a herbarium and a butterfly enclosure. A couple of hours here offers a fine respite from the bustle of the city. The gardens are easily accessed from the nearby metro stop Universidad.
Museo de AntioquiaMUSEUM
(map Google map; %4-251-3636; www.museodeantioquia.org.co; Carrera 52 No 52-43; COP$18,000; h10am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, to 4:30pm Sun)
In the grand art-deco Palacio Municipal, Colombia’s second-oldest museum (Museo Nacional in Bogotá is the oldest) is mainly dedicated to fine art. The collection includes pre-Columbian, colonial and modern art works. The highlight is the 3rd floor, where there are many works by native son Fernando Botero as well as other artists’ work donated from his personal collection. Also keep an eye out for the wonderful Pedro Nel Gómez murals around the building.
2Activities
Zona de VueloPARAGLIDING
(%319-749-7943, 4-388-1556; www.zonadevuelo.com; Km 5.6 Via San Pedro de los Milagros)
This experienced operator offers 20-minute tandem flights (COP$125,000) and 15-day courses (COP$3,000,000). Provides round-trip transportation to the launch point in San Felix from Medellín for COP$90,000 for up to four passengers.
Dance FreeDANCING
(map Google map; %4-204-0336; www.dancefree.com.co; Calle 10A No 40-27; individual classes per hour COP$65,000, group classes per month COP$100,000)
A hugely popular dance school offering salsa and bachata classes in a large space in El Poblado. Teachers are enthusiastic and professional and both private and group classes are available. At night it turns into a disco so you can practice your moves.
(%312-795-6321, 300-212-0748; www.aventurapsiconautica.com; Km 5.6 Via San Pedro de los Milagros; rock climbing COP$150,000-350,000)
In the same complex as Zona de Vuelo, this one-stop adventure shop specializes in rock climbing, canyoning and abseiling and offers ‘zip-trekking’ – multi-discipline tours around the mountain. Its experienced bilingual guides arrange mountaineering and trekking trips around the country.
BOTERO SCULPTURES
Around the city center you’ll frequently bump into the distinctive voluptuous sculptures of paisa artist Fernando Botero, whose larger-than-life figures have become emblems of the city. Among those worth checking out is the iconic La Gorda, in front of the Banco de la República in Parque Berrío. There are three more Botero sculptures in Parque San Antonio, including the Pájaro de Paz (Bird of Peace), which sits alongside its earlier incarnation that was destroyed in a terrorist bomb attack.
CCourses
Toucan Spanish SchoolLANGUAGE
(map Google map; %4-311-7176; www.toucanspanish.com; Carrera 41A No 10-28; 20hr courses COP$625,000)
A well-organized Spanish school right in the heart of El Poblado with bright air-conditioned classrooms and extracurricular social activities. There’s also a fine cafe downstairs with a good tour desk.
TTours
oBicitourCYCLING
(map Google map; %312-512-0690; www.bicitour.co; Carrera 36 No 7-10, Casa Kiwi; tours COP$70,000)
A healthy and ecological way to get to know the city, Bicitour offers in-depth cycle tours of Medellín visiting a variety of interesting sights pertinent to local history, politics and culture on a 19km route through diverse neighborhoods. An excellent way to see a side of the city you might otherwise miss. Tours begin and end in El Poblado.
It takes around four hours in total and prices include a refreshment.
oReal City ToursWALKING
(%319-262-2008; www.realcitytours.com)
Run by enthusiastic young locals, this company offers a free walking tour through the city center with detailed explanations in English of the stories behind the main points of interest. Tips for the guides are expected. You need to reserve online to secure your spot.
It also runs a paid fruit-themed tour (COP$45,000) to Medellín’s largest market and a ‘Barrio Transformation Tour’ (COP$50,000), which visits Moravia, one of the city’s most densely populated neighborhoods.
zFestivals & Events
Festival Internacional de TangoDANCE
(Festitango; %4-385-6563; cultura.ciudadana@medellin.gov.co; hJun)
The city celebrates its love for tango with competitions, concerts and workshops.
(www.feriadelasfloresmedellin.gov.co; hAug)
This weeklong festival is Medellín’s most spectacular event. The highlight is the Desfile de Silleteros, when up to 400 campesinos (peasants) come from the mountains to parade along the streets with flowers on their backs.
Festival Internacional de JazzMUSIC
(Medejazz; www.festivalmedejazz.com; hSep)
Many North American bands come for this festival. There are usually a couple of free concerts.
4Sleeping
Wandering PaisaHOSTEL$
(%4-436-6759; www.wanderingpaisahostel.com; Calle 44A No 68A-76; dm COP$23,000-27,000, s/d from COP$55,000/60,000; 
i
W)
Right by the bars and restaurants of La 70, this dynamic hostel is a great choice for those wanting to find a middle ground between the bright lights of El Poblado and the chaos of downtown. There is a small bar and the enthusiastic management is constantly arranging social events and group outings. Bikes are available to explore the neighborhood.
oLos PatiosHOSTEL$$
(map Google map; %4-366-8987; Carrera 43E No 11-40; dm/r COP$48,000/150,000)
Setting the standard for flashpacker comfort, this large new hostel in Manila features slick industrial-chic design and some of the best common areas you’ll find on your travels. The open kitchen offers great views over town, but the panoramas are even better from the upstairs lounge and phenomenal rooftop. Modern dorms are equipped with privacy curtains and male/female bathrooms.
There’s also an on-site Spanish school and tour desk, while on the ground floor the hip food market means you won’t have to go far to get something to eat.
RangoHOSTEL$$
(map Google map; %4-480-3180; www.hostelrango.com; Calle 8 No 42-25; dm COP$43,000-48,000, tw/d COP$180,000/185,000)
A chic new hotel-hostel hybrid overlooking Parque La Presidenta with polished concrete floors and wood features throughout. It offers comfortable dorms with top facilities including big solid lockers and hotel-class private rooms complete with minibars. There’s no guest kitchen but there’s a well-priced restaurant.
Happy BuddhaHOSTEL$$
(map Google map; %4-311-7744; www.thehappybuddha.co; Carrera 35 No 7-108; dm/r/tw incl breakfast COP$40,000/130,000/140,000; W)
Boasting a sleek, modern design and large terrace bar, this hostel on the edge of the zona rosa (nightlife zone) in El Poblado is a popular choice for those wanting to party, whether on-site or at the many clubs in the surrounding blocks. Both the dorms and private rooms are comfortable and well equipped.
Black SheepHOSTEL$$
(map Google map; %4-311-1589, 317-518-1369; www.blacksheepmedellin.com; Transversal 5A No 45-133, Patio Bonito; dm COP$32,000-37,000, s/d COP$80,000/100,000, without bathroom COP$70,000/90,000; iW)
One of Medellín’s original hostels and still one of its best, this well-run and welcoming place is conveniently located close to the Poblado metro and has a pleasant social vibe without being rowdy. There is a variety of common areas, including a lovely terrace, and a good selection of comfortable, modern, private rooms.
61 PradoGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map; %4-254-9743; www.61prado.com; Calle 61 No 50A-60; s/d/ste COP$68,000/91,000/103,000; iW)
This elegant place in the historic Prado neighborhood is a great base from which to explore the sights around the center. The spacious renovated rooms have high ceilings and touches of art throughout and there is a fine rooftop terrace. The candlelit dining room is a lovely place to enjoy a meal from the on-site restaurant (mains COP$8000 to COP$32,000).
Casa KiwiHOSTEL$$
(map Google map; %4-268-2668; www.casakiwi.net; Carrera 36 No 7-10; dm COP$35,000-40,000, s/d COP$120,000/140,000, without bathroom COP$80,000/100,000; iW)
With an enviable location overlooking a stream on the edge of the zona rosa in El Poblado, Casa Kiwi is close to the action but not surrounded by noisy clubs. There is a variety of elegant private rooms alongside more standard dorms. The appealing common areas include a spacious hammock terrace, a cinema-like TV room and a rooftop dipping pool.
La PlayaHOSTEL$$
(map Google map; %4-352-0748; www.laplayahostel.com.co; Carrera 35 No 7-69; dm COP$40,000-50,000, r COP$150,000; W)
A cute little hostel right in the middle of Poblado’s action, La Playa is bright and spotlessly clean. Rooms are comfortable and boast excellent bathrooms but the best feature is the great rooftop bar overlooking the road – the perfect place from which to launch your night.
El AlternativoHOSTEL$$
(map Google map; %4-266-3049; www.el-alternativo.com; Carrera 43E No 11A-13; dm COP$30,000-37,000, r with/without bathroom from COP$110,000/85,000; W)
With a good location in the heart of Manila and a laid-back arty vibe, this French-run place is a fine spot for those looking for a quiet hostel with a bit of character. Rooms feature neat paint jobs and touches of art, while the rooftop terrace has fine views, plenty of space to hang out and a guest kitchen.
In House HotelHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %4-444-1786; www.inhousethehotel.com; Carrera 34 No 7-109; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$154,000/188,000/244,000; iW)
This excellent-value small hotel stands out from the crowd in busy Poblado. Its stylish, bright rooms feature pine furniture, work desks and big windows. Service is friendly and professional, and a continental breakfast is included. Rooms at the front have private balconies while those at the rear are quieter.
Hotel Dann CarltonHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %4-444-5151; www.danncarlton.com; Carrera 43A No 7-50; s/d COP$280,000/395,000, ste from COP$575,000; 
aW
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This slick, professionally run hotel is a cut above the rest with quality accommodations and plenty of extra touches including elegant flower displays in the lobby. The suites in particular are huge, with attached sitting room, walk-in closet and massive bathroom.
5Eating
Plaza Minorista José María VillaMARKET$
(map Google map; cnr Carrera 57 & Calle 55; h7am-4pm)
Home to a huge, bustling undercover market with more than 2500 stalls, selling mostly food. It was established in 1984 to remove hawkers from the streets. A good place for self-caterers to stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables.
Arte DolceGELATO$
(map Google map; %4-352-0881; Carrera 33 No 7-167; gelati COP$4000-8000; hnoon-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-9:30pm Sat & Sun)
Swing by this little corner cafe to try some of the fabulous gelato made right on the premises. All the flavors are good but our favorite is the Mediterranean, which blends pistachios, caramelized almonds, lemon, orange and olive oil. It’s refreshing and delicious.
ItacaCOLOMBIAN$
(map Google map; %4-581-8538; Carrera 42 No 54-60, Boston; set lunch COP$12,000, mains COP$15,000-30,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
This tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant on the outskirts of downtown prepares fantastic gourmet plates bursting with flavor at fair prices. At lunch there are a couple of set options while in the evening there is no menu; just tell friendly chef Juan Carlos what you like and he will whip up a modern Colombian classic from his collection of market-fresh ingredients.
Vegetarians are well catered for while meat lovers should not leave without trying a portion of the homemade sausages, which have been proclaimed the best in Antioquia. On Sundays there is a big barbecue on the street outside. There’s no sign – look for the blue door.
Salón VersallesCOLOMBIAN$
(map Google map; www.versallesmedellin.com; Pasaje Junín 53-39; breakfast COP$5900-15,900, set meals COP$15,900; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun)
Famous for its scrumptious Argentine-style empanadas, this Medellín institution also serves up a good set meal and is a great place to take a rest from the bustle of the center. It is frequented by everyone from hard-up pensioners to young entrepreneurs and is worth checking out just to observe the crowd.
Govinda’sVEGETARIAN$
(map Google map; %4-293-2000; Calle 51 No 52-17; meals COP$9000-10,000; h11:30am-7pm; 
v)
Part restaurant, part Hare Krishna cultural center, Govinda’s has a great-value vegetarian buffet. Choose from a wide range of soups, soy-based mains, salads and vegetable sides. If you arrive late you will probably be limited to the fast-food menu. Upstairs there are regular yoga classes.
oCasa Clandestino ComedorMEXICAN$$
(map Google map; %311-683-1984; Carrera 35 No 8A-125, Poblado; mains COP$25,000-39,000; hnoon-11pm Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)
If one place symbolizes Medellín’s transformation from provincial capital to culinary hot spot it’s this hip bar-restaurant in Poblado that would not be out of place in London or Brooklyn. Inside the action centers around a classic marble bar – some serious design has gone into this place and just as much thought has gone into the delicious food.
The menu is smallish but the plates are extremely well executed and portions are generous. Good to its name, it’s hidden away. Look for the unmarked wooden door beside the taco stand on the street – which is also outrageously good – and follow the corridor back to the plant-filled courtyard.
OseaCOLOMBIAN$$
(map Google map; %4-268-3964; www.oseamed.co; Calle 9 No 43B-28, Poblado; mains COP$26,000-38,000; hnoon-2:30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat, 7-10pm Mon)
Offering a small menu of inventive modern cuisine at reasonable prices, this neat little restaurant just off Parque Poblado is a real winner. A team of young chefs work away in the open kitchen preparing interesting dishes with subtle, fresh flavors. There are always vegan options available. It only has six tables so make a reservation.
Pizzeria CentroPIZZA$$
(map Google map; %4-254-4510; Calle 57 No 41-57; pizzas COP$30,000; h4:30-11pm Tue-Sat)
Located all alone in a converted house on an average street between the center and Boston, this place serves some of the best thin-crust pizza in Medellín. Decoration is simple but the pizzas come out of the wood-burning oven just right.
Cafe ZorbaINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; Calle 8 No 42-33, Parque La Presidenta; pizza COP$23,500; h5-11:45pm; aW)
Nestled on the edge of Parque La Presidenta, this fashionable open-air cafe serves up excellent pizzas, salads and dips as well as delicious desserts. It’s also a great place to enjoy an after-dinner drink. On Wednesdays there’s usually live music.
VerdeoVEGETARIAN$$
(map Google map; %4-444-0934; www.ricoverdeo.com; Calle 12 No 43D-77, Manila; mains COP$18,000-23,500; hnoon-9pm Mon & Tue, to 10pm Wed & Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; v) 
S
You don’t have to be vegetarian to enjoy the creative dishes on offer at this groovy restaurant now in a new location in Manila. Take your pick from delicious vegetarian shawarma, burgers, Vietnamese soups and salads. Staff also prepare a healthy set lunch (COP$17,000) and there are always plenty of vegan options.
The attached grocer is a great place to pick up organic veggies, tofu and other products not found in local supermarkets.
Café Colombo CredenzaCOLOMBIAN$$
(map Google map; Carrera 45 No 53-24, 10th fl; mains COP$20,000-40,000; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat)
On the top floor of the building housing the Centro Colombo Americano, this casual bistro serves up quality meals along with great views of the city. It’s a great spot for cocktails early in the evening. Also serves a flavorful set lunch (COP$17,000) that’s a league above your standard rice, meat and beans offering.
MalevoARGENTINE$$
(map Google map; %4-580-2150; Calle 11A No 43E-32, Manila; mains COP$23,000-72,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
Walk off the street and into Argentina at this bustling little steakhouse in a converted house in Manila that serves up choice cuts at reasonable prices. Make sure to order a couple of its famous empanadas to begin with. Service is top-notch and there is sometimes live music.
Bao BeiSOUTHEAST ASIAN$$
(map Google map; %304-396-2418; Carrera 36 No 8A-123; mains COP$22,000-24,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun)
You might have to wait for a table at this tiny place run by a Filipino chef and his Colombian wife, but it’s worth it if you’ve got a hankering for some good Asian grub. It specializes in bao – filled steamed buns – but also serves up some tasty noodle dishes as well as good chicken and pork mains.
Ciao Pizza GourmetITALIAN$$
(map Google map; cnr Calle 49 & Carrera 64A, Suramericana; mains COP$12,000-27,000; hnoon-2pm & 5-9:15pm Mon-Fri, noon-9:15pm Sat, noon-4:30pm Sun)
Sit outside on the small plaza at this neighborhood restaurant to enjoy wonderful pizzas and homemade pastas cooked to perfection. It also serves one of our favorite set lunches (COP$13,000 to COP$16,000) full of fresh Italian flavors. It’s hidden in a residential area behind the Suramericana building.
Il CastelloITALIAN$$
(map Google map; %4-312-8287; Carrera 40 No 10A-14, Poblado; mains COP$20,000-40,000; hnoon-2:30pm & 6-10:30pm Mon-Sat)
For authentic, quality Italian food, look no further than this unpretentious bistro. The pizzas are tasty but it is the pastas that really excel, especially the ravioli. Accompany your meal with a bottle from the extensive wine list.
oCarmenINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map; %4-311-9625; www.carmenmedellin.com; Carrera 36 No 10A-27, Provenza; mains COP$45,000-60,000; hnoon-2:30pm & 7-10:30pm Tue-Fri, 7-10:30pm Mon & Sat)
Run by an American-Colombian couple, both of whom are Cordon Bleu chefs, Carmen prepares sophisticated international cuisine with a heavy Californian influence. The restaurant itself is made up of distinct dining zones – an intimate dining room overlooking the open kitchen, a conservatory and a rear patio. The knowledgeable English-speaking waiters can offer good wine recommendations to match your meal.
While it is one of Medellín’s finest restaurants, prices are very reasonable considering the quality of the dishes. Reservations are essential in the evening.
oTal CualFUSION$$$
(map Google map; %316-478-4555; www.talcualrestaurante.com; Calle 12 No 43D-12, Manila; mains COP$28,000-56,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)
An unpretentious place in Manila with a casual arty vibe that serves up creative fusion cuisine at reasonable prices. The varied menu features a lot of seafood, including some great Peruvian dishes, alongside pastas, risottos, steak and ribs. It’s all delicious and well presented, but the ceviches and tuna tataki are outstanding. Service is also excellent.
RocotoPERUVIAN$$$
(map Google map; %4-311-8979; Carrera 33 No 8A-14, Provenza; mains COP$33,900-44,800; hnoon-9:40pm Mon-Wed, to 10:40pm Thu-Sat, to 4:40pm Sun)
Peruvian restaurants are a dime a dozen in Medellín these days, but this open-air restaurant overlooking a gushing stream in Provenza stands out for its fine flavors and good service. It’s not cheap and some plates are on the small side, but both preparation and presentation are top-notch. Also serves great pisco sours.
MisturaPERUVIAN$$$
(%4-322-5142; www.misturarestaurante.com; Carrera 39D No 74-62, Laureles; mains COP$34,000-46,000; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Wed, noon-3pm & 7-11pm Thu & Fri, noon-4pm & 7-11pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
PROFITING FROM PABLO
Even after his death, infamous cocaine warlord Pablo Escobar Gaviria keeps on making money. When backpackers started flowing back into Medellín – something only made possible by the fall of the Medellín Cartel boss – a couple of young local entrepreneurs sensed an opportunity. They began running Escobar-themed tours, visiting the pivotal places from his bloody reign over the city: his luxurious homes and offices, the suburban house where he was shot, and his grave. More mainstream tour operators soon latched on, and even members of Escobar’s family have begun running tours where you can discuss the capo’s (boss’s) favorite things with his brother.
Needless to say, plenty of Colombians are unimpressed with what they see as the glorification of a bloodthirsty terrorist who blew up planes and once paid his henchmen for every police officer they killed. Others accept that Escobar is an important historical figure and compare the tours to those dedicated to mobsters in Chicago.
Most tours last around half a day, but note that prices and quality vary widely. If you do decide to take an Escobar-themed tour, Paisa Road (%317-489-2629; www.paisaroad.com) gets positive reviews for its informative and impartial tours. Even better, pay a visit to the Casa Museo de la Memoria in downtown Medellín to learn about just how disastrous Escobar’s reign was for the city.
If you’re not done with Escobar after that, you can get an idea of the sheer scale of his wealth and ambition at Hacienda Nápoles (%1800-510-344; www.haciendanapoles.com; Km165 Autopista Medellín–Bogotá; COP$39,000-75,000; 
c), a huge farm four hours from Medellín that he turned into a private kingdom complete with several mansions, a bullring, and exotic pets including giraffes, zebras and several hippopotamuses. When the government turned up the heat on Escobar, Hacienda Nápoles was abandoned. These days it is home to a safari-themed adventure park and vestiges of Escobar’s ownership are being removed, but you can still check out the hippos.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oSalon MalagaBAR
(map; %4-231-2658; www.salonmalaga.com; Carrera 51 No 45-80; h8am-1am)
A Medellín institution, Salon Malaga is more than just a bar, it’s a cultural experience. With walls decked out with black-and-white images of long-dead singers and an amazing collection of gramophones, it is a visual feast. But Malaga is all about the tunes with the senior DJ spinning classic tango and boleros from a collection of old vinyl.
oPergaminoCAFE
(map Google map; %4-268-6444; www.pergamino.co; Carrera 37 No 8A-37; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat)
It’s worth the effort to wait in line for a drink at this popular cafe, which serves up the best coffee in Medellín. There is a full range of hot and cold beverages, all made with top-quality beans sourced from small farms around the country. You can also buy coffee in bags to take home.
La OctavaBAR
(map Google map; %4-583-1783; Calle 8 No 37-49; h5pm-4am)
A fairly laid-back bar by Lleras standards, Octava plays good international music and attracts an unpretentious and social crowd. Seating is crammed, but if you come early you might snag one of the tables on the porch that are great for watching the movement out on the street. A fine place to begin the evening before hitting the clubs.
Son HavanaCLUB
(Carrera 73 No 44-56; h8:30pm-3am Wed-Sat)
The bar of choice for serious salsa fans, this popular place just off La 70 has a great tropical vibe. The small dance floor fills up fast, so most patrons end up dancing around the tables. It’s pretty dark so you don’t need to worry too much if you lack the moves.
It gets packed from Thursdays to Saturdays for its live band performances. Also sometimes offers free salsa classes.
Trilogia BarCLUB
(www.trilogiabar.com; Carrera 43G No 24-08; h8:30pm-3:30am Thu-Sat)
For a dynamic night out, head to this friendly club in Barrio Colombia where bands perform Colombian crossover music from a revolving stage while tipsy locals sing along. Come with a group, and make reservations on the website to avoid missing out.
Calle 9 + 1BAR
(map Google map; Carrera 40 No 10-25; h9pm-late)
Set around a covered courtyard, this hip alternative hangout has DJs spinning independent electronic music to an arty crowd, and a different vibe to most of the mainstream bars in the Parque Lleras area.
3Entertainment
Casa GardelianaDANCE
(%4-444-2633; Carrera 45 No 76-50; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) F
Located in Barrio Manrique, Casa Gardeliana was Medellín’s main tango venue for years, hosting tango bands and dance shows. It still holds events occasionally but is now basically a small tango museum. On the last Friday of the month, the casa hosts the ‘Gran Fiesta Tangera’ (6pm to 9:30pm) with Argentine empanadas, wine and plenty of dancing. Reserve a table.
It’s possible to organize private dance classes here (COP$80,000, 90 minutes) – the price is the same for one dancer or many, so get a group together.
Teatro Pablo Tobón UribeTHEATER
(map Google map; %4-239-7500; www.teatropablotobon.com; Carrera 40 No 51-24)
This is Medellín’s major mainstream theater. There are free dance classes here on Saturdays and yoga on Tuesday and Thursday mornings – bring your own mat. On Tuesday evenings there’s usually theater or dance performances.
El Patio del TangoDANCE
(%4-235-4595; www.patiodeltango.com; Calle 23 No 58-38; mains COP$25,000-35,000; hnoon-8pm Mon-Wed, to 1:30am Thu-Sat)
Sports
Medellín has two football (soccer) teams: Independiente Medellín (www.dimoficial.com), who wear red and are known as ‘El Poderoso,’ and Atlético Nacional (www.atlnacional.com.co), Medellín’s biggest football team and one of the most successful in Colombia, who have a green kit. Both play at Estadio Atanasio Girardot near the aptly named Estadio metro station.
The greater metropolitan area is also home to Envigado Fútbol Club, which plays in the southern municipality of Envigado.
8WHAT’S ON IN MEDELLíN
Opcion Hoy (www.opcionhoy.com) Comprehensive activity and entertainment listings with a cultural focus. Look out for the printed version.
Medellín en Escena (www.medellinenescena.com) For theater event listings.
Medellín Zona Rosa (www.medellinzonarosa.com) Concert schedules and nightlife.
7Shopping
For high-end shopping, head to the malls of El Poblado, including Santafé (Carrera 43A No 7 Sur-170; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun), Oviedo (Carrera 43A No 6 Sur-15; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun) and El Tesoro (%4-321-1010; Carrera 25A No 1A Sur-45; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun). Handicrafts and souvenirs can be found at the Centro Artesanal Mi Viejo Pueblo map Google map; ( Carrera 49 No 53-20; h9am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) in the center.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
A While Medellín is for the most part a safe city for visitors, robberies are not unheard of. Take care especially after dark in the center when office workers and retailers head home and the streets empty fast.
A Pickpockets have been reported on buses and the metro – keep a close eye on your belongings.
EMERGENCY & IMPORTANT NUMBERS
| Ambulance | %125 |
| Fire | %119 |
| Police | %112 |
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS
While not as developed as that in Bogotá, Medellín has a small but vibrant gay nightlife scene. Many bars are located in the center and in the area of Calle 33 out near Laureles. For listings of bars and events, visit Guia Gay Colombia (www.guiagaycolombia.com/medellin).
INTERNET ACCESS
Most shopping centers and many public places including some parks have free wi-fi access points, although speeds are sometimes not the best. Almost all cafes and most restaurants offer wi-fi for clients. Generally all hotels and hostels have good wi-fi available, although it does not always reach into the rooms, so check before booking if this is important.
There are plenty of internet cafes in El Poblado and the center. Most charge around COP$2000 per hour. Try the Internet Center (%4-448-8724; Calle 53 No 47-44; per hour COP$2900; h24hr).
MEDICAL SERVICES
Clínica Las Vegas (%4-315-9000; www.clinicalasvegas.com; Calle 2 Sur No 46-55; h24hr) This professional private medical facility is your best option if you need a doctor in a hurry. Staff speak some English.
Clínica Medellín (%4-311-2800; www.clinicamedellin.com; Calle 7 No 39-290; h24hr) Private clinic in El Poblado where the staff speak some English. There is another branch in central Medellín.
Congregación Mariana (%4-322-8300; www.vid.org.co; Carrera 42 No 52-82; h8am-5pm) Nonprofit clinic with many specialists and low prices.
MONEY
There are numerous ATMs throughout the city including near Parque Berrío in the center, along Av El Poblado and around Parque Lleras.
There are moneychangers, ATMs and bank branches in Centro Comercial Oviedo.
Banco de Bogotá (Carrera 49 No 49-16) ATM in the center of the city.
Banco de Bogotá (Carrera 43A No 8-84) ATM in Poblado.
Banco Popular (Carrera 50 No 50-14) Downtown ATMs.
Bancolombia (Calle 43A 65-15, Centro Commercial Oviedo) In the Centro Comercial Oviedo in Poblado.
Bancolombia (Carrera 49 No 52-08) Downtown ATM.
Bancolombia (Carrera 39 No 8-100) ATM near Parque Lleras.
Citibank (Carrera 43A No 1A Sur-49) ATM in Poblado.
Giros & Finanzas (Calle 57 No 49-44, Centro Comercial Villanueva, local 241; h8am-5pm) Currency exchange; Western Union agent.
POST
4-72 (map; Calle 10A No 41-11; h8am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office in Poblado.
4-72 (map; www.4-72.com.co; cnr Calle 49 & Carrera 51, Centro Commercial Cafetero; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office in the center.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Medellín makes it easy to get tourist information through a network of Punto Información Turísticas (PIT) offices, operated by courteous and knowledgeable bilingual staff. In addition to those following, there are branches in each of the airports and bus terminals.
PIT Cerro Nutibara (map; Calle 30A No 55-64; h8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
PIT Parque Arví (h9:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun)
PIT Parque de Las Luces (map; cnr Calle 44 & Carrera 54; h9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat)
PIT Plaza Mayor (map; %4-261-7277; www.medellin.travel; Calle 41 No 55-80; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
Despite winning plaudits for urban innovation, Medellín still has many areas for improvement when it comes to accessibility for those with reduced mobility.
While all metro stations are now wheelchair accessible, other mass-transit options, including the small buses that link many other destinations, are not. Medellín’s topography makes it a challenge for travelers with limited mobility. There are stairs on many public roads, especially in neighborhoods higher up on the hillsides.
Most shopping centers, airports and major museums are accessible for travelers with disabilities and usually have dedicated wheelchair-friendly bathrooms. Private businesses are less likely to have ramps and other facilities, although most top-end hotels and some midrange places have at least some accessible rooms.
VISA INFORMATION
Migración Colombia (%4-238-9252; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Calle 19 No 80A-40, Barrio Belén; h7-11am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) For visa extensions. From El Poblado take the Circular Sur 302/303 bus heading south along Av Las Vegas.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Medellín has two airports. All international flights and domestic flights to major cities depart from Aeropuerto Internacional José María Córdova (MDE; %4-402-5110; www.aeropuertorionegro.co; Ríonegro), 35km southeast of the city near the town of Ríonegro. Buses shuttle between the city center and the airport every 15 minutes (COP$9500, one hour, 5am to 9pm). The bus stop (map; Carrera 50A No 53-13) in town is behind the Hotel Nutibara, but you can also get onboard near the Centro Commercial San Diego. A taxi will set you back COP$65,000.
The smaller Aeropuerto Olaya Herrera (EOH; %4-403-6780; http://aeropuertoolayaherrera.gov.co; Carrera 65A No 13-157) is in town next door to Terminal del Sur bus station. Regional domestic flights leave from here, including services to destinations in El Chocó.
BUS
Medellín has two bus terminals: Terminal del Norte (map; www.terminalesmedellin.com; 
mCaribe), 3km north of the city center, handles buses to the north, east and southeast, including Santa Fe de Antioquia (COP$14,000, two hours), Cartagena (COP$130,000, 13 hours), Santa Marta (COP$130,000, 16 hours) and Bogotá (COP$65,000, 10 hours). It is easily reached from El Poblado by metro (alight at Caribe) or by taxi (COP$14,000).
Terminal del Sur (www.terminalesmedellin.com), 4km southwest of the center, handles all traffic to the west and south, including Manizales (COP$35,000, five hours), Pereira (COP$43,000, seven hours), Armenia (COP$45,000, six hours) and Cali (COP$55,000, nine hours). From El Poblado it’s a quick taxi ride (COP$6000).
8Getting Around
BICYCLE
Medellín has a functional and widespread free public bicycle system called Encicla (www.encicla.gov.co). Visitors are able to take out bicycles for short trips using their passport, but you’ll need to register first and pick up a ‘Tarjeta Civica’ card in any one of Niquía, San Antonio, Itagüí or San Javier metro stations. A network of bicycle paths has been constructed linking many of the stations. Check the website for station locations.
BUS
Medellín is well serviced by buses, although most travelers will find the metro and taxis sufficient for their needs. The majority of routes originate on Av Oriental and from Parque Berrío. Buses stop running around 10pm or 11pm.
METRO
Medellín’s Metro (www.metrodemedellin.gov.co; single ticket COP$2300; h4:30am-11pm Mon-Sat, 5am-10pm Sun) is Colombia’s only commuter rail line. It opened in 1995 and consists of a 23km north–south line and a 6km east–west line. Trains run at ground level except for 5km through the central area where they go on elevated tracks.
The metro company also operates four cable-car lines, called Metrocable, built to service the impoverished barrios in the surrounding hills and Park Arví in Santa Elena. The rides themselves afford magnificent views and make for a lovely way to check out the town. The three main Metrocable lines are included in the price of a metro ticket, while the Arví line is separate.
If you’re going to spend a while in Medellín it may be worth getting a ‘Civica’ card for discounted tickets and faster access.
TAXI
Taxis are plentiful in Medellín and all are equipped with meters. Minimum charge is COP$5000. A taxi from the center to El Poblado will cost around COP$10,000 to COP$12,000.
AROUND MEDELLÍN
Long off-limits to Colombian tourists who remained trapped in their cities by the civil war, the countryside around Medellín is now secure and bustling with crowds.
Guatapé
%4 / Pop 5167 / Elev 1925m
The pleasant holiday town of Guatapé is located on the shores of the Embalse Guatapé, a sprawling artificial lake. It is known for the fresco-like adornment of its traditional houses. Brightly painted bas-relief depictions of people, animals and shapes cover the lower half of many dwellings.
Guatapé makes a great day trip from Medellín, a two-hour bus ride away, but there is enough here to keep you entertained a bit longer if you fancy a peaceful break from the city. Visit on the weekend if you want to experience the festival atmosphere when the town is packed with Colombian tourists or during the week to explore the surrounding nature at a more relaxed pace.
2Activities
A canopy ride (per ride COP$15,000; h1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) runs along the lakeshore from a large hill near the entrance to town. A hydraulic system pulls clients up the hill from the malecón (promenade) – there’s no need to walk up.
Rock climbing on the southern side of the Piedra del Peñol is another popular activity. Most hostels and hotels can hook you up with local guides.
TTours
A number of boating companies on the malecón take turns running trips out onto the water.
Most large boats have big sound systems, a bar and a dance floor but do not make any stops where you are able to disembark. In mid-2017 the largest boat on the lake sank in front of town resulting in several deaths. If you want to take one of the bigger boats, it’s recommended to sit on the upper deck so that you can escape in an emergency.
It’s more interesting to take a tour on a smaller boat. The standard tours swing past La Cruz (a monument to the flooded town of old Peñol mistakenly believed by many to be part of the old church) and Isla de las Fantasias. Both options cost around COP$15,000 per person.
It is also possible to charter smaller boats to see the sights on a private tour. Stops include a visit to a museum dedicated to the creation of the lake and, upon request, Pablo Escobar’s abandoned farm, Finca La Manuela. Prices vary depending on how far you go but begin at around COP$90,000.
Guatape MotosTOURS
(%313-788-9332; www.guatapemotos.com; Carrera 31 No 22-09; per hour/day COP$20,000/100,000)
A professionally run outfit offering motorcycle rentals and guided tours throughout the region. Staff will help you plan a route that takes in sights according to your interests.
4Sleeping
Mi CasaHOSTEL$
(%4-861-0632; www.micasaguatape.com; Estadero La Mona; dm COP$30,000, r COP$70,000-80,000)
Run by an affable Anglo-Colombian couple, this popular small hostel close to the base of La Piedra is welcoming and comfortable. Some rooms offer lake views and there is a path down to the water’s edge where kayaks are available. There’s a good kitchen with a rack of imported spices for guest use.
Lakeview HostelHOSTEL$
(%4-861-0023; www.lakeviewhostel.com; Carrera 22 No 29B-29; dm COP$23,000-30,000, s/d/tr from COP$70,000/85,000/110,000; W)
An established local hostel featuring neat, modern rooms. The dorms downstairs open onto the common area and can be noisy, but the privates on the 2nd floor with lake views are quality. The sociable owners organize all kinds of activities. On the top floor there’s a fine Thai restaurant.
Galeria HostelHOSTEL$$
(%4-861-0077; www.galeriahostels.com; Vereda La Peidra, Residencial No 2; dm COP$28,000-34,000, r incl breakfast COP$160,000)
Perched on a peninsula right below La Piedra, this hip little hostel is a popular choice among backpackers looking for majestic views on a budget. It’s small and homely and feels somewhat like a private retreat with friends. There’s a steep path down to a particularly scenic part of the lake.
Mansion de OrienteHOTEL$$
(%4-861-0218; Vereda La Piedra; r per person incl breakfast COP$80,000-119,000; s)
A great midrange option near La Piedra, this rural-style house has neat and spacious rooms opening onto a large wraparound balcony overlooking the lake. But the best part is the large swimming pool and social area down by the water’s edge. Packages with meals are also available.
5Eating
Hecho con AmorCAFE$
(Carrera 27A No 30-71; light meals COP$4000-10,000; hnoon-7pm Sat-Wed; v)
Expats swear by this cute little cafe that serves up mostly vegetarian plates alongside a fantastic bacon wrap for carnivorous visitors. The menu features a variety of veggie burgers, tasty dips, soups and quiches. Make sure to leave room for the fantastic desserts – try the amazing cheesecake.
Pizzeria de LuigiPIZZA$$
(%320-845-4552; Calle 31 No 27-10; pizzas COP$20,000-28,000; h6:30-10pm Wed-Sun)
A friendly Italian-run place near the sports field serving up the best pizzas in Guatapé.
KushbuINDIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
(Donde Sam; %4-861-0171, 310-403-1073; Calle 32 No 31-57; set lunch COP$10,000-14,000, mains COP$22,000-30,000; h9am-9pm)
This spacious 2nd-floor restaurant has great views of the lake and a variety of international cuisine. Choose from freshly prepared Indian dishes as well as some Italian, Thai, Chinese and Mexican plates. Vegetarians are well catered for and the special menus are good value.
8Information
There are two ATMs in town: near the plaza and next to the bus station.
Robin Cell (%314-700-1342; Calle 30 No 28-36; per hour COP$2000; h9am-noon & 2-8pm) Internet access.
Tourism Office (%4-861-0555; Alcaldía; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm) Inside the alcaldía (town hall) building on the main square.
8Getting There & Away
If you’re coming on a day trip from Medellín, it makes sense to climb Piedra del Peñol before venturing onward to Guatapé, as it can get cloudy and rain in the afternoon. Buses to and from Medellín (COP$13,500, two hours) run about once an hour. Colectivos shuttle frequently between the turnoff to Piedra del Peñol and Guatapé (COP$2000, 10 minutes) or you can take a moto-taxi all the way to the entrance (COP$10,000).
The last bus back to Medellín is at 6:30pm on weekdays and at 7:45pm on weekends and other peak periods. If returning to Medellín from Guatapé on the weekend, be sure to buy your round-trip ticket immediately upon arrival as buses fill up fast. The ticket office (cnr Carrera 30 & Calle 32) is on the waterfront.
Piedra del Peñol
Also known as El Peñon de Guatapé, thanks to the fierce rivalry between the towns it straddles, this 200m-high granite monolith (El Peñon de Guatapé; per climb COP$18,000; h8am-5:40pm) rises from near the edge of the Embalse Guatapé. A brick staircase of 659 steps rises up through a broad fissure in the side of the rock. From the top there are magnificent views of the region, the fingers of the lake sprawling amid a vast expanse of green mountains.
Coming from Medellín, don’t get off the bus in the town of Peñol – ask the driver to let you off at ‘La Piedra,’ which is another 10 minutes down the road. Take the road that curves up past the gas station (1km) to reach the parking lot at the base of the rock. Taxi drivers and horse owners will try to convince you that it’s a long, exhausting climb but while it’s steep, it’s not far. At the base there are tourist shacks selling knickknacks and numerous restaurants serving lunch (from COP$8000 to COP$12,000). At the top of the rock, shops sell fruit juice, ice cream and salpicón (fruit salad in watermelon juice).
Santa Fe de Antioquia
%4 / Pop 24,905 / Elev 550m
This sleepy colonial town is the region’s oldest settlement and was once the capital of Antioquia. Founded in 1541 by Jorge Robledo, the clock stands still at 1826, the year the government moved to Medellín. Because it was eclipsed for so long by its neighbor 80km southeast, its colonial center never fell to the wrecking ball and today it looks very much like it did in the 19th century. The narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses, all single-story construction and many arranged around beautiful courtyards. You’ll also see elaborately carved – and typically Antioquian – woodwork around windows and doorways.
It makes a great day trip from Medellín. Don’t miss sampling pulpa de tamarindo, the beloved sour-sweet candy made with tamarind from the surrounding valley.
1Sights
Puente de OccidenteBRIDGE
This unusual 291m bridge over the Río Cauca is 5km east of town. When completed in 1895, it was one of the first suspension bridges in the Americas. José María Villa, its designer, was also involved in the creation of the Brooklyn Bridge in New York. It’s a boring and hot 45-minute walk downhill. You’re best to take a moto-taxi (round trip COP$15,000). The driver will wait while you walk across.
Be sure to climb the dirt path behind the entrance for complete aerial photos of the bridge.
Museo Juan del CorralMUSEUM
(map Google map; %4-853-4605; Calle 11 No 9-77; h9am-noon & 2-5:30pm, closed Wed) F
Visit this interesting museum dedicated to the history of the region in order to check out the perfectly preserved colonial mansion it is set in. Hosts regular cultural events.
Museo de Arte ReligiosoMUSEUM
(map Google map; %4-853-2345; Calle 11 No 8-12; COP$3000; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Fri-Sun)
This museum occupies the former Jesuit college constructed in the 1730s, next door to Iglesia de Santa Bárbara. It has a fine collection of colonial religious art, including paintings by Gregorio Vásquez de Arce y Ceballos.
Iglesia de Santa BárbaraCHURCH
(map Google map; cnr Calle 11 & Carrera 8; h6:30-8am & 5-6:30pm Thu-Tue, 6:30-8am Wed)
Built by Jesuits in the mid-18th century, Santa Fe’s most interesting church has a fine baroque facade. The interior has an impressive, if time-worn, retable over the high altar.
zFestivals & Events
Semana SantaRELIGIOUS
(Holy Week; hEaster)
Like most traditional towns dating from the early days of the Spanish Conquest, Santa Fe celebrates Semana Santa with pomp and solemnity. Book accommodations in advance.
Fiesta de los DiablitosCULTURAL
(hDec)
The town’s most popular festival is held annually over the last four days of the year. It includes music, dance, parades and – like almost every party in the country – a beauty contest.
4Sleeping
Green NomadsHOSTEL$$
(map;%302-434-2163; www.greennomandshostel.com; Calle 9 No 7-63; dm/r COP$30,000/100,000; Ws)
The only real hostel in the historic center offers clean, comfortable and affordable fan-cooled accommodations in a good location close to the plaza. An added bonus is the great pool area with a view out the back.
oHotel Mariscal RobledoHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %4-853-1563; www.hotelmariscalrobledo.com; cnr Carrera 12 & Calle 10; r incl breakfast COP$385,000-448,000; 
paiWs)
Occupying a privileged place on Parque de la Chinca, Santa Fe’s finest hotel oozes character. The spacious rooms are packed with antiques, most of which are for sale, and reflect a simple colonial elegance. There is a rooftop viewpoint, a fantastic large swimming pool and a pretty interior courtyard. The biggest negative: electric showers.
Casa TenerifeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map;%4-853-2261; Carrera 8 No 9-50; s/d incl breakfast COP$152,000/244,000; Ws)
Set in a renovated colonial home one block back from the plaza, this fine hotel has elegant and spacious rooms with all the mod cons surrounding a large internal courtyard. There’s a good pool area out the back and bicycles for guest use.
5Eating & Drinking
Restaurante Portón del ParqueCOLOMBIAN$$
(map Google map; %4-853-3207; Calle 10 No 11-03; mains COP$25,000-31,000; hnoon-8pm)
The walls of this restaurant, which occupies an elegant colonial house with high ceilings and a flowery courtyard, are covered with some pretty shoddy artwork but the kitchen prepares quality traditional food. .
Sabor EspañolSPANISH$$$
(map;%4-853-2471; Calle 10 No 12-26; mains COP$27,800-38,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Fri, noon-10pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
Right on Parque de la Chinca, this top place serves typical Spanish food in a large courtyard and patio. The walls are plastered with trinkets from Spain and there’s flamenco music playing in the background to round out the atmosphere. Service is good and Spanish wines are available.
La ComediaBAR
(map Google map; Calle 11 No 8-03; hnoon-late)
With a chilled vibe and a low-volume jazz soundtrack, this arty place in front of the Iglesia de Santa Bárbara serves a full range of hot and cold beverages as well as light meals. In the evening, it is the best place in town for a low-key drink.
8Information
Banco Agrario (Calle 9 No 10-51) Expensive ATM.
Bancolombia (Carrera 9 No 10-72) ATM half a block from the plaza.
Listo Comunicaciones (%4-853-3357; per hour COP$1000; h8am-8pm) Internet on the main square.
Punto Información Turística (PIT; %ext 5 4-853-1136; turismo@santafedeantioquia-antioquia.gov.co; Carrera 9 No 9-22; h8am-noon & 2-6pm) Friendly tourist office that can organize guides.
8Getting There & Away
There are hourly buses (COP$10,000, two hours) and minivans (COP$14,000, 1½ hours) to/from Medellín’s Terminal del Norte. The last van back to Medellín from the bus terminal (Carretera Medellín–Urabá) leaves around 7:30pm, but after this time you can always flag down a passing intercity service from Turbo in Urabá on the highway.
Jardín
%4 / Pop 13,596 / Elev 1750m
The self-proclaimed most beautiful town in Antioquia, Jardín is an enchanting agricultural settlement boasting brightly painted two-story houses surrounded by small coffee farms that cling impossibly to the slopes of majestic green mountains.
At the center of town life is the breezy cobblestone plaza dominated by the immense neo-Gothic church. It is chock-full of colorful wooden tables and chairs where fruit sellers hawk delicious cocktails and old-timers converse between measured sips of coffee. In the evenings it seems like the entire community comes out to socialize over a drink, while portly middle-aged men in sombreros make their finely groomed horses dance laps around everyone.
But a visit here is not just about small-town charm. Explore the spectacular nearby countryside and you’ll find hidden caves, waterfalls and top-notch bird-watching, as well as a wide array of adventure-sport opportunities.
1Sights
Basilica Menor de la Inmaculada ConcepciónCHURCH
(h5am-8:30pm)
Towering over the central plaza, this imposing neo-Gothic church seems more than a little out of place in such a small town. Its gray granite walls topped with aluminum spires contrast markedly with the colorful surrounds. The striking blue interior features gold-plated arches and capitals.
oCerro Cristo ReyVIEWPOINT
You’ll spot this lookout point with its white Christ statue from the center of Jardín. Take the modern cable car (round trip COP$6000) up for fantastic views of town and the mountains beyond. There is a shop at the top selling cold beers and snacks.
If the cable car is out of service, which is not uncommon, you can also reach the lookout on foot in 25 to 45 minutes, depending on which path you take. It’s also possible to make the trip by bicycle or on horseback.
Reserva Natural Gallito de la RocaNATURE RESERVE
(Calle 9; COP$10,000; h6-7:30am & 4-5:30pm)
This small nature reserve right on the edge of town is the scene of one of Jardín’s most impressive natural sights. Early each morning and again in the evening numerous gallitos de las rocas fly in to screech, dance and show off their brilliant red plumage in an attempt to impress the ladies.
oCueva del EsplendorCAVE
(COP$6000)
Located at 2200m amid beautiful landscapes, this spectacular cave has a 10m waterfall gushing through a large hole in the roof and is Jardín’s most famous attraction. The cave is only accessible on horseback or on foot along muddy, sometimes narrow mountain paths. The entrance is around a three-hour hike from town or two hours on horseback.
The cascade begins about 70m above the entrance, falling in various stages before pouring into a small pool at the bottom of the cave, throwing up clouds of mist. It’s possible to take a dip but the water is ice-cold. Note that from the access point it’s a 20-minute walk down a steep path to the cave, so visitors need some dexterity.
Expect to pay around COP$75,000 per person for the trip on horseback including a traditional lunch. A recommended guide is Bernardo Lopez, who will pick you up in town with the horses. Another good option is Jaime Marín (%313-719-1017, 314-780-4070; COP$75,000), who will drive you in a jeep to his farm, from where it’s a one-hour ride to the entrance.
2Activities
Condor de los AndesADVENTURE
(%310-379-6069; condordelosandes@colombia.com; Calle 10 No 1A-62)
This dynamic adventure company inside the hostel of the same name offers a range of high-adrenaline activities around town, including canyoning in Cascada La Escalera (COP$75,000).
Tienda de ParapentePARAGLIDING
(%311-362-0410; armandovuelo@gmail.com; Calle 15, Av la Primavera; tandem flights COP$130,000; h10am-6pm)
Bernardo LopezHORSEBACK RIDING
(%314-714-2021; COP$75,000)
Friendly local guide offering horseback-riding trips to Cueva del Esplendor. Bernardo will pick you up in town, from where it’s a two-hour ride to the cave entrance. The tour includes a typical lunch.
4Sleeping
oCondor de los AndesHOSTEL$
(%310-379-6069; www.condordelosandeshostal.com; Calle 10 No 1A-62; dm with/without breakfast COP$30,000/25,000, s/d incl breakfast COP$60,000/90,000)
Offering amazing views and total tranquility in a colonial-style house just a block from the plaza, this superb hostel is the best choice in town for budget travelers. There’s a variety of comfortable rooms with hot water surrounding a stone terrace that overlooks the majestic mountains. Guests have access to the kitchen and a fine open-air common area.
Hotel JardínHOTEL$$
(%310-380-6724; www.hoteljardin.com.co; Carrera 3 No 9-14; r per person COP$45,000-55,000; W)
Right on the central plaza, this colorfully painted hotel has rooms and apartments with kitchens, all set around a lovely courtyard. There is a wonderful wide balcony overlooking the park and a rear porch with mountain views. Some of the rooms on the lower floor lack natural light; try to get one upstairs with a window to the street.
5Eating & Drinking
Cafe EuropaITALIAN$
(%302-235-3100; Calle 8 No 4-02; pasta COP$13,000, pizzas COP$13,000-20,000; h5-10pm)
You might have to wait for a table at this great-value corner cafe serving a small menu of delicious pizzas and pasta dishes at bargain prices. It’s a cozy place with walls lined with European newspaper clippings and Colombian photographic exhibits. It serves wine by the glass or bottle.
oCafe MacanasCAFE
(%4-845-5039; Parque Principal; h8am-8:30pm)
Grab a cup of fantastic locally grown coffee and head out the back to the flower-filled patio right next to the basilica at this exceptional new cafe on the main plaza. There are also cozy spaces inside the colonial building to sit and chill when the rains come down. Also sells bags of coffee to go.
7Shopping
Dulces del JardínFOOD
(%4-845-6584; dulcesdeljardin@hotmail.com; Calle 13 No 5-47; arequipe COP$7000; h8am-6pm)
This cavity-inducing sweets factory is famous throughout Antioquia for its wide variety of arequipe (a sweet dessert of milk and sugar), conserves and fruit candies. Our favorite: Arequipe de Arracacha (an Andean vegetable).
8Information
Bancolombia (Calle 9 No 3-33) Reliable ATM.
Punto Información Turística (%350-653-6185; piteljardin@gmail.com; cnr Carrera 3 & Calle 10; h8am-noon & 2-6pm) Helpful tourist office around the corner from the church.
8Getting There & Away
Around a dozen buses (COP$25,000, three hours) head daily to Jardín from Medellín’s southern bus terminal. In Jardín the buses depart from the offices on Calle 8, where both Rapido Ochoa (%312-286-9768, 4-845-5051; Calle 8 No 5-24) and Transportes Suroeste Antioqueño (%4-845-5505; Calle 8 No 5-21) operate. Make sure to purchase your round-trip ticket in advance as seats sell out during peak periods.
If you are continuing south to the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Axis) in the Zona Cafetera, Cotransrio (%311-762-6775; Calle 8 No 5-24) has a direct service from Jardín to Manizales (COP$40,000, six hours) at 6:25am. Alternatively, take the bus to Ríosucio at 8am or 2pm (COP$19,000, three hours) and pick up a connection to Manizales there.
Río Claro
ELEV 350M
Set 2km south of the Medellín–Bogotá highway, three hours east of Medellín and five hours west of Bogotá, is the Reserva Natural Cañon de Río Claro (%4-268-8855, 313-671-4459; www.rioclaroelrefugio.com; Km152, Autopista Medellín–Bogotá; COP$15,000; h8am-6pm), a small reserve/hotel. Here the crystalline Río Claro rushes through a stunning marble canyon surrounded by lush forest. Be sure to visit the Caverna de los Guácharos (guided tour COP$20,000), a spectacular cave next to the river.
You can go rafting in the reserve (COP$25,000), but it’s more a gentle cruise through some gorgeous scenery; hard-core rafters may be disappointed. Canopy cables crisscross the river, and make for a diverting afternoon zipping through the jungle (COP$20,000).
Bring a swimsuit, towel and flashlight. On weekends the reserve is often full of Colombian high-school students – you may prefer to come during the week. The reserve offers a variety of accommodation options under the one umbrella, the most impressive of which lie a 15-minute walk upriver from the restaurant. There is also a motel-style property at the edge of the highway, but it is not surrounded by nature and suffers from constant highway noise. If staying overnight, don’t even think of showing up without an accommodation reservation – you won’t get in.
The reserve is 24km west of Doradal, where you will find a couple of budget hotels and internet cafes near the main plaza, as well as ATMs.
8Getting There & Away
Many Medellín–Bogotá buses, with the exception of some of the bigger express services, will drop you at the reserve’s entrance. Make sure to ask before purchasing your ticket. From Medellín, Coonorte (www.coonorte.com.co) runs frequent services to Doradal and beyond, which always stop.
From any other direction, look for transportation to Doradal, from where you can pick up a bus to the main gate (COP$5000, 20 minutes).
ZONA CAFETERA
Colombia is famous for its coffee, but nowhere is the prized bean more important than in the departments of Caldas, Risaralda and Quindío, which together make up the heart of the Zona Cafetera, also called the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Axis). Here you’ll find jeeps packed with mustachioed coffee pickers; poncho-wearing senior citizens gossiping in cafes; and, of course, endless cups of piping-hot arabica. Many working fincas (coffee farms) have embraced tourism and welcome visitors onto their plantations to learn all about the coffee-growing process. It is particularly interesting to visit during the harvests (April to May, October to December) when the farms are a hive of activity.
The region was colonized by paisas in the 19th century during the colonización antioqueña, and remains culturally tied to Medellín in everything from its traditional architecture to its cuisine. It’s an area of spectacular natural beauty and there are stunning vistas everywhere.
The Zona Cafetera is reachable by frequent direct bus services from Medellín, Cali and Bogotá. Manizales, Armenia and Pereira all have airports; the most accessible facility with the best connections is that of Pereira.
Manizales
%6 / Pop 398,830 / Elev 2150m
The northern point of the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Axis), Manizales is a pleasantly cool, mid-sized university town, surrounded on all sides by green mountain scenery. The capital of the Caldas department, Manizales was founded in 1849 by a group of Antioquian colonists looking to escape the civil wars of that time. The town’s early development was hindered by two earthquakes in 1875 and 1878, and a fire in 1925. For this reason there’s not a lot of historical interest left – the real attractions are the surrounding nature activities and the town’s vibrant nightlife.
1Sights & Activities
oMonumento a Los ColonizadoresMONUMENT
(map; Av 12 de Octobre, Chipre; h11am-7pm)
Located atop a hill in the neighborhood of Chipre, this massive monument to the city’s founders was crafted from 50 tonnes of bronze. It’s a very impressive work, but an even bigger attraction is the spectacular view over town and to Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados.
Iglesia de Inmaculada ConcepciónCHURCH
(map; cnr Calle 30 & Carrera 22)
Built at the beginning of the 20th century, this elegant church has a beautiful carved-wood interior reminiscent of a ship’s hull.
Torre de ChipreVIEWPOINT
(map; Av 12 de Octobre, Chipre; COP$5000; h11am-9pm)
The 30m-high spaceship-like lookout point has 360-degree views of the dramatic mountainous terrain surrounding the city. If you’re brave you can walk around the perimeter on an external walkway while attached to a harness (COP$15,000). Admission allows you to come and go all day if you want to check the views during the day and after dark. To get here, take any bus running along Av Santander from Cable Plaza to Chipre; they leave constantly.
Los YarumosPARK
(map; %323-476-4351; Calle 61B No 15A-01; activities COP$12,000-32,000; h8:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun) F
This 53-hectare municipal park offers panoramic views of the city, forest trails and adventure activities. Free activities include a short guided hike along a nature trail and a catapult that launches participants into the air while attached to a rubber sling. Paid options include treks to a waterfall, abseiling, a canopy line and a vertigo-inducing 80m-high Tibetan bridge. It’s also a great place to just chill on a clear afternoon, when you can see the peaks of PNN Los Nevados.
A cable car links the park directly with Cable Plaza, but it’s been plagued by technical problems since its inception and rarely runs. Otherwise it’s a 40-minute walk or COP$4000 in a taxi.
BailongoDANCING
(map; %314-847-4203; Calle 24 No 22-38, Piso 3; private classes per hour COP$15,000)
A dance school in the heart of the ‘Calle del Tango’ offering private and group tango classes. Also offers lessons in other Latin rhythms.
TTours
Manizales is a good place to organize treks in the PNN Los Nevados.
Kumanday AdventuresADVENTURE
(map; %6-887-2682, 315-590-7294; www.kumanday.com; Calle 66 No 23B-40; h24hr) This full-service adventure company in the hostel (%6-887-2682, 315-590-7294; www.kumanday.com; Calle 66 No 23B-40; dm/s/d incl breakfast COP$30,000/73,000/93,000; W)
of the same name runs multiday treks in PNN Los Nevados and mountaineering trips nationwide. It also offers scenic mountain-bike tours through nearby coffee farms, a high-adrenaline downhill run from the edge of Nevado del Ruiz back to Manizales, and three-day cycling trips through the Andes. Mountaineering gear and tent rental available.
EcosistemasADVENTURE
(map; %6-880-8300, 312-705-7007; www.ecosistemastravel.com.co; Carrera 20 No 20-19; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
An experienced and professional outfitter offering excursions and multiday tours to PNN Los Nevados, including hikes to the summits of Nevado de Santa Isabel and Nevado del Tolima. It is one of the only operators with regular day trips into the park. Also specializes in visits to local coffee farms.
zFestivals & Events
Feria de ManizalesCULTURAL
(hJan)
At Manizales’ annual festival you’ll find the usual assortment of parades, crafts fairs and, of course, a beauty pageant.
Festival Internacional de TeatroTHEATER
(%6-885-0165; www.festivaldemanizales.com; hSep)
Held annually since 1968, this is one of two important theater festivals in Colombia (the other is in Bogotá). The festival lasts about a week and includes free street performances. Check the website for the schedule.
4Sleeping
Most accommodations are located in the Cable Plaza area, where you will find a large shopping mall and most of the city’s best restaurants.
Mountain HostelsHOSTEL$
(map;%6-887-4736, 6-887-0871; www.manizaleshostel.com; Calle 66 No 23B-91; dm COP$26,000, s/d COP$66,000/77,000, s/d without bathroom COP$55,000/66,000; W)
A short walk from the zona rosa, this fine choice spread over two buildings is one of the few hostels where backpackers and Colombian travelers mix. There are a variety of social areas including a rear patio with hammocks and a replica coffee cottage. The reception building rooms are the most comfortable. Staff are helpful with organizing activities.
Mirador AndinoHOSTEL$
(map;%310-609-8141, 6-882-1699; www.miradorandino-hostel.com; Carrera 23 No 32-20; dm COP$30,000, s/d from COP$60,000/110,000; W)
Perched on the side of the ridge on the edge of downtown right next to the cable car station, this comfortable hostel has atmosphere to spare. Rooms are clean and comfortable and the views from the building are amazing. Added bonus – a fine rooftop bar area.
oFinca Mirador MorrogachoB&B$$
(%317-661-6117; www.miradorfincamorrogacho.com; Morrogacho Villa Jordan, enseguida Padres Salvatorianos; dm/s/d from COP$38,00/75,000/87,000, apt from COP$120,000; W)
Located on a mountainside on the outskirts of town with phenomenal views, this fantastic small hotel has a variety of spacious, classy accommodations with polished wood highlights and loads of natural light. Some have kitchens for self-catering. The enchanting grounds are full of flowers and hummingbirds. Prices include a hearty breakfast and vegetarian meals (COP$18,000) are available.
There’s a path beside the property that winds down through coffee farms to a waterfall and a panoramic yoga space.
To get here take bus 601 or 619 marked ‘Morrogacho’ from the center of Manizales (COP$1850, 20 minutes). A taxi from Cable Plaza will run at around COP$10,000.
Regine’s HotelHOTEL$$
(map;%6-887-5360; www.regineshotel.com; Calle 65A No 23B-113; r incl breakfast COP$110,000; W)
A good-value family-run B&B-style hotel offering spacious and comfortable accommodations close to Cable Plaza. The outdoor garden patio is a great place to watch the sun rise. Some rooms are better than others – ask to see a few.
Estelar Las ColinasHOTEL$$$
(map;%6-884-2009; www.hotelesestelar.com; Carrera 22 No 20-20; s/d incl breakfast COP$218,000/289,000; pW)
The poshest place in the center, this modern glass-and-concrete hotel isn’t pretty to look at, but it has large, comfortable rooms, plus a fine restaurant. Rooms on the upper levels have better views and more natural light. On weekends discounts are available.
5Eating
RushiVEGETARIAN$
(map;Carrera 23C No 62-73; meals COP$10,000; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat; v)
Hip vegetarian restaurant serving up great juices and interesting meat-free dishes prepared before your eyes in the open kitchen. The changing lunch menu is top value. Sometimes there’s live music in the evenings.
La Condesa CantinaMEXICAN$
(%300-613-2218; Carrera 23 No 73-09; items COP$10,500-13,500; h11am-9:30pm)
A bright little Mexican spot on the edge of the Milan dining strip serving good tacos and quesadillas. Prices are great for the quality. Be warned though: unlike in most places in Colombia, the really hot sauce here really is really hot.
La SuizaBAKERY$$
(map;Carrera 23 No 26-57; mains COP$16,000-22,000; h9am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7:30pm Sun)
This scrumptious bakery does great pastries and even homemade chocolate. It also serves up tasty breakfasts, plus excellent light lunches, including pastas, gourmet sandwiches and wraps. There’s another branch with great views near Cable Plaza.
El BistroFRENCH$$
(map;%6-885-0520; elbistrofrancesmanizales@gmail.com; Carrera 24A No 60-49; mains COP$18,000-27,000; hnoon-10pm)
An unpretentious little place with just a handful of tables serving up traditional French fare at good prices. Take your pick from a variety of crepes or more filling beef, chicken and salmon dishes. During the day there is a set meal (COP$12,000).
6Drinking & Entertainment
La Belle Vintage BarLOUNGE
(%6-886-8613; Carrera 23 No 75-36; h6pm-2am)
PrenderiaBAR
(map; Carrera 23 No 58-42; h8pm-2am Thu-Sat)
Wonderfully relaxed bar where talented local musicians play to an older, laid-back crowd. Try the lethal carajillo – strong espresso spiked with rum – and try not to slide off the bar stools.
Bar La PlazaBAR
(map; Carrera 23B No 64-80; h11am-11pm Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)
Delicatessen by day, bar by night; this is the place to start your evening. Fills up fast and by 9pm you’ll have to wait for a table. There’s a young, student vibe, and it offers gourmet sandwiches (COP$7000 to COP$16,000) and snack platters of quality salami and cheese to help line your stomach. Does good cocktails.
Teatro Los FundadoresTHEATER
(map; %6-878-2530; cnr Carrera 22 & Calle 33)
Manizales’ leading mainstream theater; it also has a cinema and hosts concerts.
8Information
The area around the central market just north of the city is a favored hangout for thieves and is best avoided.
There are several ATMs inside Cable Plaza map; (Carrera 23 No 65-11).
4-72 (Carrera 23 No 60-36; h8am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office.
Banco de Bogotá (cnr Carrera 22 & Calle 22) ATM in the center.
BBVA (Carrera 23 No 64B-33) ATM in the zona rosa.
Caldas Tourism Office (Centro de Información Turística de Caldas; %6-884-2400; cnr Carrera 21 & Calle 23, Plaza de Bolívar; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Offers tips on travel throughout the department.
Ciber Rosales (Carrera 23 No 57-25; per hour COP$1800; h8am-6:30pm) Reliable internet access.
Giros y Finanzas (www.girosyfinanzas.com; Carrera 23 No 65-11, Cable Plaza; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Western Union agent; foreign exchange.
Manizales Tourism Office (%6-873-3901; www.ctm.gov.co; cnr Carrera 22 & Calle 31; h8am-noon & 2-6pm) City information office.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Aeropuerto La Nubia (%6-874-5451) is 8km southeast of the city center, off the road to Bogotá. Take the urban bus to La Enea, then walk for five minutes to the terminal, or grab a cab (COP$12,000). Delays and cancellations are common because of fog, so don’t book tight connections out of here.
BUS
Manizales’ sparkling modern bus terminal (%6-878-7858; www.terminaldemanizales.com.co; Carrera 43 No 65-100) is located south of the center and is linked to the downtown area by an efficient cable car (per trip COP$1800; h6am-9pm) that offers great views of the city. A second cable-car line runs from the terminal across to Villa María on the far side of the valley. If you are staying by Cable Plaza, it is easier to take a taxi direct from the terminal (COP$6500).
Buses depart regularly to Cali (COP$40,000, five hours), Bogotá (COP$20,000, eight hours) and Medellín (COP$35,000, five hours).
Minibuses to Pereira (COP$10,500, 1¼ hours) and Armenia (COP$17,000, 2¼ hours) run every 15 minutes or so.
8Getting Around
Buses run the length of Manizales along Av Santander from Cable Plaza to Chipre every 30 seconds (yes, that frequently!).
Around Manizales
The lush mountainous countryside surrounding Manizales is home to some of Colombia’s most beautiful landscapes and does not lack opportunities for adventure and relaxation. Here you’ll find hot thermal baths, volcanic craters, working coffee farms and nature reserves full of birdlife all within a one-hour drive of the city.
1Sights
Hacienda GuayabalPLANTATION
(%317-280-4899, 314-772-4856; www.haciendaguayabal.com; Km 3 Vía Peaje Tarapacá, Chinchiná; tours Spanish/English COP$35,000/40,000; htours 8am-5pm)
This slow-paced working coffee farm near Chinchiná is a great place to come and unwind surrounded by cafetero culture. It runs an excellent coffee tour that follows the coffee process from the plant to the cup and includes a tasting workshop at the end. It is a bit more personal than those offered by some of the larger outfits and the guides are keen to share their knowledge. Bags of the coffee are available to purchase as souvenirs.
Make sure you stay for lunch – the traditional farm-style food here is absolutely delicious and vegetarians are well catered for. You can hang around afterwards to use the pool.
There’s also fine bird-watching on the property with more than 160 species identified, including three endemics. If you want to stay longer, it offers simple, functional accommodations (rooms per person including breakfast COP$70,000) in a modern house set up on a hill with magnificent views over the surrounding plantations. For more privacy, book one of the fine cabañas (per person including breakfast COP$100,000 to COP$140,000) that cling to the hillside and boast private balconies with breathtaking panoramas. The spacious, light-filled suite is particularly appealing with its massive windows and attractive indoor/outdoor bathroom.
To get here, take any bus from Manizales to Chinchiná (COP$3400, 30 minutes), then from the main plaza in Chinchiná take the bus marked ‘Guayabal Peaje’ (COP$1300, 10 minutes, every 15 to 30 minutes). Ask the driver to let you off before the toll booth at the ‘Tienda Guayabal’; from here it’s a 1km walk down the small road between the houses. A taxi from Chinchiná direct to the door costs COP$90,000.
(%320-636-5719; www.haciendavenecia.com; Vereda el Rosario, San Peregrino; tours COP$50,000; htours 9:30am)
This hacienda has won numerous awards for its coffee. It offers a coffee tour in English that includes an informative presentation about Colombian coffee, an introduction to coffee cupping, a class in coffee preparation and a walking tour through the plantation. You can use the pool afterwards, and a typical lunch is available for COP$15,000. The tour price includes transportation to/from your hotel in Manizales.
The plantation is centered on a well-preserved paisa farmhouse with majestic views that has been converted into a lovely boutique hotel (rooms with/without bathroom from COP$350,000/305,000). The gardens are well kept, and there’s a pond with lily pads and a round blue pool. The rooms are full of books, antiques and old photographs, while the wraparound verandah has hammocks and rocking chairs to rock away the evening.
There are also cheaper, although slightly less atmospheric, accommodations in a newer building – the Coffee Lodge (rooms COP$180,000 to COP$200,000) – which is across the river from the main house and also has its own swimming pool. And there’s a new hostel building (dorm COP$30,000 to COP$35,000) a short walk away with a kitchen for guest use. All accommodations include unlimited farm-fresh coffee.
Recinto del PensamientoNATURE RESERVE
(%6-889-7073; www.recintodelpensamiento.com; Km 11 Vía al Magdalena; COP$16,000; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Set in the cloud forest 11km from Manizales, this nature park has a fine mariposario (butterfly enclosure), several short walks through an impressive orchid-populated forest, and a medicinal herb garden. You’ll also see plantations of guadua and chusqué (two kinds of Colombian bamboo). There’s even a telesilla – a kind of chair lift to take you up the mountain slope on which the park sits.
Admission includes 2½ hours of mandatory guide service; a couple of the guides speak some English. There’s impressive birdlife here – book in advance for bird-watching tours run on demand from 6am to 9am. Wear brown or green clothes and bring binoculars.
To get here, take the bus marked Sera Maltería from Cable Plaza in Manizales or take a taxi (COP$10,000).
COLOMBIAN COFFEE
Colombia is the third-largest coffee exporter in the world and the only big producer that grows arabica beans exclusively. The coffee bean was brought to Colombia from Venezuela in the early 18th century by Jesuit priests. It was first cultivated in the area that is now Norte de Santander before spreading throughout the country.
Local conditions proved ideal for growing arabica coffee. Colombia’s location near the equator means that coffee can be grown high in the mountains, where the beans mature more slowly. This results in a harder, more dense bean that provides consistent flavor when roasted. Frequent rainfall in the region sees bushes that are almost always flowering, which enables two harvests a year. And the plants thrive in the region’s volcanic soils, which contain a high amount of organic material.
The main varieties of arabica coffee grown in Colombia are Tipica, Bourbon, Maragogipe, Tabi, Caturra and Colombia. As the beans on a single plant mature at different times, all Colombian coffee needs to be handpicked. This job is performed by small armies of recolectores (coffee pickers) that travel from region to region according to the harvests.
The heavy rainfall means that beans cannot be dried in the open like in other coffee-producing regions. Colombian beans are wet-processed or ‘washed,’ with the fruit surrounding the bean being removed prior to drying. This process takes much of the acidity out of the bean and gives the end product a richer aroma.
While the country is a major coffee producer, outside the Zona Cafetera Colombians have not traditionally been huge coffee drinkers and traditionally almost all the best beans were picked for export. This is changing as international coffee culture makes a splash in the country’s bigger cities, where you’ll now find hip coffee houses preparing fine caffeinated beverages using gourmet beans from farms around the country. If you want to purchase coffee to take home, it’s best to visit some farms yourself and buy single-origin beans direct from the growers.
2Activities
Ecotermales El OtoñoTHERMAL BATHS
(%6-874-0280; Km 5 Antigua Via al Nevado; adult/child COP$25,000/15,000; h1pm-midnight Tue & Fri, to 11pm Wed & Thu, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun)
Three thermal pools with lovely mountain views outside the main Termales El Otoño hotel complex. The pools are surrounded by breezy wooden shelters and there’s a cafe serving meals and booze. There’s slightly less development here than in the hotel complex so the pools feel closer to nature. The downside – during peak periods you’ll share them with hordes of visitors.
The pool at the top closest to the access point is the hottest. On Tuesday and Thursday there’s half-price admission.
Termales El OtoñoTHERMAL BATHS
(%6-874-0280; www.termaleselotono.com; Km 5 Antigua Via al Nevado; per day COP$40,000; h7am-midnight)
This high-end resort 5km from Manizales has a number of large thermal pools and is surrounded by impressive mountain peaks. You don’t need to be a hotel guest to use the pools – you can come just for the day and use the two pools near reception. On Tuesday there are 2-for-1 passes.
The on-site hotel has rooms ranging from generic hotel-type offerings to luxurious cottages with wooden ceilings, open fireplaces and private thermal spas (single/double including breakfast from COP$231,000/302,000).
It is a little too built up to be a full-on nature experience, but it’s still a fine relaxing day away from the city.
Termales Tierra VivaTHERMAL BATHS
(%6-874-3089; www.termalestierraviva.com; Km 2 Vía Enea-Gallinazo; COP$18,000-20,000; h9am-11:30pm)
Located next to the Río Chinchiná just outside Manizales, this thermal-bath complex has three pools made of rocks set among a pretty garden that attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. There’s an elevated, open-air restaurant and a small spa offering a wide range of massages. The baths are quiet during the week, but on the weekends it can feel a little overcrowded.
There’s also a good-value hotel on-site with four spacious, modern rooms (single/double from COP$170,000/190,000) sporting full-length windows overlooking a stream. On Sundays there’s often cut-price admission.
WORTH A TRIP
RESERVA ECOLóGICA RíO BLANCO
Three kilometers northeast of Manizales lies this 3600-hectare cloud-forest reserve (elevation 2150m to 3700m). It is an area of high biodiversity and protects numerous endangered species, including the oso andino (spectacled bear). There are 362 species of bird present in the park, including 13 of Colombia’s endemics. It attracts bird-watchers from around the world, but even amateurs will be delighted by the quantities of hummingbirds, butterflies and orchids. It makes a great half-day excursion – best in the morning, as it often rains in the afternoon.
The reserve is one of the most pristine and attractive tracts of forest in the region, but unfortunately visiting is anything but straightforward. Before you can visit you must request permission (free) at least two days in advance from Aguas de Manizales (%6-887-9770; reservarioblanco@aguasdemanizales.com.co; Av Kevin Ángel No 59-181; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri). Staff here are notoriously bad at answering correspondence; you might have to show up to the office and be persistent in order to organize permission.
A taxi to the main gate from Manizales will cost around COP$30,000. Get the number of your driver for the round trip – there is next to no traffic up here.
4Sleeping
There are numerous coffee farms in the lush countryside around Manizales that are open to overnight visitors. All of the thermal baths in the area also offer accommodations.
oTermales del RuizSPA HOTEL$$$
(%310-455-3588; www.hoteltermalesdelruiz.com; Paraje de Termales, Villa Maria, Caldas; s/d incl breakfast from COP$185,000/220,000)
Set in a renovated sanitarium amid stunning landscapes just outside the boundaries of PNN Los Nevados at 3500m, this thermal-baths complex is the place to go for total relaxation. Rooms have the feel of a classic alpine lodge and while not huge they’re comfortable. Outside there are two pools set among otherworldly páramo plants and there’s first-class bird-watching.
Up on a hillside above the complex, there’s a birding shelter beside a gushing stream where 17 species of hummingbird come to feed. There are also short trails to explore.
Meals are served in an elegant fire-heated dining room with large windows offering fine views of the mountains and – on a clear day – down to Manizales. The baths are the only ones near Manizales built right at the source – you can see the sulfur-laced waters bubbling out of the mountainside right behind the hotel.
Day-trippers can use one of the pools for COP$27,000, although you’ll need your own vehicle to get here. Transportation from Manizales can be arranged for hotel guests for COP$40,000 per visitor one way.
8Getting There & Away
Most of the main attractions around Manizales are close enough to reach by taxi or urban bus.
To get to Termales El Otoño or Tierra Viva, take the white Metropolitano bus marked Gallinazo (COP$1950, 30 minutes) from Av Kevin Ángel below Cable Plaza or Carrera 20 in central Manizales. The last bus back into town leaves around 8:30pm from El Otoño. A taxi from Cable Plaza will set you back around COP$15,000.
Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados
ELEV 2600-5325M
Following a spine of snow-covered volcanic peaks, this national park (%6-887-1611; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; north of park Colombians/foreigners COP$22,000/40,500, south of park COP$10,000/28,500; h8am-3:30pm) provides access to some of the most stunning stretches of the Colombian Andes. Its varied altitude range encompasses everything from humid cloud forests and páramo to glaciers on the highest peaks.
Thirty-seven rivers are born here, providing water to 3.5 million people in four departments. The glaciers in the park have been receding, however, and research is underway to measure the impact on the environment.
The best months to see snow in Los Nevados are October and November and from March to May. Outside of those times, you’re more likely to get the dry, windy conditions favorable to trekking and clear views.
TTours
In order to trek into the park, it’s obligatory to take a guide registered with Parques Nacionales. For a list of registered guides, contact the office (%6-887-1611; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; Calle 69A No 24-69; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) in Manizales.
Public transportation to most entry points of the park is nonexistent. While it’s possible to hike into the park from either Parque Ucumarí or Valle de Cocora, it’s often more convenient to organize a package including guides and transportation in Manizales or Salento.
Ecosistemas in Manizales offers day trips to Nevado del Ruiz and Nevado de Santa Isabel, as well as multiday hikes through the park and ascents of the various other peaks. It’s possible to take a hiking tour beginning in Manizales and finishing in Pereira or Valle de Cocora near Salento. Ask the company to forward your backpack so that you don’t have to double back. Another good option for multiday adventures is Kumanday Adventures, also based in Manizales.
In Salento, Paramo Trek map; (%311-745-3761; www.paramotrek.com; Carrera 5 No 9-33) offers a variety of hikes in the park entering through Valle de Cocora.
If you want to explore Los Nevados by bicycle you’ll need to get advance permission from the Parques Nacionales office in Manizales. Only limited areas of the park are open to cyclists and designated zones are under constant review.
Nevado del Ruiz
This is the highest volcano of the chain. Its eruption on November 13, 1985, killed more than 20,000 people and swept away the town of Armero on the Río Lagunillas. El Ruiz had previously erupted in 1845, but the results were far less catastrophic; today, the volcano continues to grumble, resulting in restrictions on activities in this part of the park.
The principal access road into the park is from the north. It branches off from the Manizales–Bogotá road in La Esperanza, 31km east of Manizales. The entrance to the park is at Las Brisas (4050m), where you’ll need to register at the rangers’ office.
Access is only permitted between 8am and 2pm, with all visitors having to leave the park by 3:30pm. At the time of research, visitors were only permitted to travel a short 5km stretch of road through the páramo to Valle de las Tumbas (4350m). While tour operators are still running trips (COP$130,000) to this part of the park, tours are more targeted at the photo-op, package-tour crowd than those looking for a nature experience. Visitors spend almost the entire trip in vehicles; it’s not permitted to get out and hike even short distances.
If restrictions are lifted, it should be possible to explore more of the area. The volcano actually has three craters: Arenas, La Olleta and Piraña. It is possible to summit the main one, Arenas (5321m). The extinct Olleta crater (4850m), on the opposite side of the road, is covered with multicolored layers of sandy soil and normally has no snow.
Nevado de Santa Isabel
Straddling the departments Caldas, Risaralda and Tolima, this dormant volcano is covered in dome-like formations and topped with a 2-sq-km glacier that is the source of the Río Otún. It’s the lowest glacier left in Colombia and the most rapidly retreating.
The volcano is accessed through the village of Potosí near Santa Rosa de Cabal. It’s possible to reach the edge of the glacier on a day trip from Manizales although it’s pretty intense: you’ll travel in a vehicle for about three hours along an unsealed road to a height of 4050m before hiking uphill through stunning páramo for another three hours to the snow line. The trips usually leave Manizales at around 5am and don’t return until 7pm. Expect to pay around COP$160,000 per hiker, including breakfast and lunch.
If you plan to visit on a day trip, it’s important to be aware of the effect the change in altitude will have on your stamina. Pay close attention to the recommendations of your guide.
The climb to the summit (4965m) does not require much technical experience, although it’s advisable to hire an experienced guide. It’s also recommended to spend a day or two at altitude before attempting the ascent.
Laguna del Otún
This spectacular lake at an altitude of 3950m is surrounded by the gorgeous páramo below the magnificent Nevado de Santa Isabel. On the east side of the lake there is a ranger station where you can pitch a tent (COP$10,000 per visitor). You can hike to Laguna del Otún from the north via the park gate at Potosí or from the south via Refugio La Pastora. While the hike from Potosí is considered easier as it’s shorter and begins at a higher altitude, the stiff uphill hike from La Pastora affords better views. If you hike up from La Pastora you’ll be required to pay the park entry fee on arrival at Laguna del Otún as there is no gate in this sector.
Halfway along the route from La Pastora you’ll find Finca El Jordán, home of the Machete family who offer basic accommodations (COP$15,000) and guide service.
It’s possible to enter from one access point, spend the night at the lake and then leave along the other route. Note there’s no public transportation to Potosí, and from La Pastora it’s a 5km hike downhill to El Cedral, from where chivas depart irregularly to Pereira.
Nevado del Tolima
The Nevado del Tolima (5215m), the second-highest volcano in the chain, is the most handsome of all with its classic symmetrical cone. On a clear day it can be seen from as far away as Bogotá. Its last eruption took place in 1943.
For novice climbers, it’s best reached through the Valle de Cocora. Experienced mountaineers might prefer to tackle the southern face accessible through Ibagué, the capital of the Tolima department. Note that on this trail there are no houses or farms, so climbers will have to pack all their own supplies.
Either way it’s a challenging multiday trek. Because of the state of the glaciers, it’s a more technical climb than the other peaks in PNN Los Nevados, and an experienced guide and mountaineering equipment is essential. A recommended guide is German ‘Mancho’ (%312-211-7677, 313-675-1059; deltolima@gmail.com; La Primavera), who is based at the small mountain lodge at La Primavera and grew up in the area. In Ibagué, try David ‘Truman’ Bejarano (%313-219-3188, 315-292-7395; www.truman.com.co), an experienced mountain guide who also offers trips to other peaks around the country.
Pereira
%6 / Pop 474,335 / Elev 1410m
Hardworking Pereira is not your typical tourist destination. In fact it’s not really a tourist destination at all. Almost all visitors to Pereira come for one thing – to do business. Founded in 1863, Pereira is the capital of Risaralda and the economic powerhouse of the Zona Cafetera – a hot commercial center most noted for its throbbing nightlife. While it doesn’t offer much in the way of attractions, if you want to experience a fast-paced yet friendly Colombian city away from the gringo trail, Pereira certainly fits the bill. It is also the gateway to Parque Ucumarí and Santuario Otún Quimbaya, a pair of top nature reserves, and the relaxing thermal springs of Santa Rosa and San Vicente.
2Activities
Finca Don ManoloTOURS
(%313-655-0196; Vereda El Estanquillo; tours COP$30,000; hby appointment)
Visit this family-run coffee farm on a mountainside just outside Pereira for an interesting tour covering the entire production process from planting to harvesting and processing. Afterwards you’ll enjoy a farm-fresh cup and a brownie while taking in the great views. You’ll be shown around by friendly owner Don Manolo, so call ahead to make sure he is home.
A taxi from town costs around COP$15,000 or look for the bus (COP$1800) marked ‘Guadales’ or ‘Vereda El Estanquillo’ at the terminal. Ask the driver to let you off at the Centro Logistica Eje Cafetero, from where it’s a 1km walk to the farm.
4Sleeping
Kolibrí HostelHOSTEL$
(%6-331-3955; www.kolibrihostel.com; Calle 4 No 16-35; dm from COP$22,000, r with/without bathroom COP$85,000/65,000; W)
With a great location just off the main zona rosa, this top hostel offers everything budget travelers need. There is a variety of comfortable rooms, a great terrace with mountain views and a chilled streetside bar area. The enthusiastic staff are particularly helpful in arranging activities around town and beyond.
Hotel CondinaHOTEL$$
(%6-333-4225; Calle 18 No 6-26; s/d with air-con COP$166,000/186,000, with fan COP$112,000/149,000; paW)
On a bustling traffic-free street in the heart of downtown, this mid-sized hotel offers excellent value. Bright, modern rooms have work desks and even a pillow menu. The facilities are way above what you would normally expect at this price. Rates include breakfast. Lack of vehicle access might be an issue if you have a lot of luggage.
Hotel Abadia PlazaHOTEL$$$
(%6-335-8398; www.hotelabadiaplaza.com; Carrera 8 No 21-67; s/d incl breakfast COP$210,000/249,000; aiW)
This stylish place right in the center of town is a top choice for comfort and professional service. You’ll find original art on the walls, a well-equipped gym, and plush rooms with marble bathrooms and noise-proof windows. Prices drop by around a third on weekends.
5Eating
Grajales AutoserviciosCAFETERIA$
(%6-335-6606; Carrera 8 No 21-60; meals COP$15,000; h24hr)
At this large 24-hour self-service restaurant-cum-bakery you can put together your own lunch or dinner at the buffet. Alternatively in the middle of the day choose from a more limited selection of dishes in the good-value lunch special (COP$10,000). It’s also a good option for breakfast.
Vineria San MartinoITALIAN$$
(%6-346-2481; vineriasanmartinopereira@gmail.com; Carrera 12 No 3-32, La Rebeca; mains COP$14,000-22,000; h6-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
A cozy little spot serving fantastic traditional Italian cuisine accompanied by imported wines. Portions aren’t huge and service can be a little slow but everything is absolutely delicious. You’d be hard-pressed to find better pizza or pasta in the Zona Cafetera.
Leños y ParillaGRILL$$
(%6-331-4676; Carrera 12 No 2-78; mains COP$21,000-29,000; hnoon-10pm)
A hugely popular steakhouse just off the Circunvalar serving a wide selection of both thin- and thick-cut steaks grilled to perfection over hot coals. It’s a big place but still gets full so come early or make a reservation.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The Circunvalar area is full of bars and small discos and is now Pereira’s principal party spot, while downtown has a number of bars popular with a bohemian crowd. The late-night action is a little way outside of the city in La Badea.
oRincón ClásicoBAR
(cnr Carrera 2 & Calle 22; h4-11pm Mon-Sat)
Music lovers of all ages descend on this diminutive corner bar to drink and sing along to tango, bolero and other classics from the elderly owner’s collection of 7000 records. Don Olmedo has been spinning tunes here for more than half a century. He’ll play anything as long as it’s classic – don’t go asking for reggaeton!
El BaristaCAFE
(%6-341-3316; Carrera 15 No 4-17; coffee COP$2900-6100; h2pm-midnight)
A bright and inviting cafe decked out with pine furniture preparing the best coffee in town using a variety of different methods. There’s a good menu of snacks and light meals and also bags of gourmet beans to go.
El ParnasoBAR
(Carrera 6 No 23-35; h2pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Walk down the long corridor to emerge in this arty garden bar with an open fireplace. It serves tasty pizzas and burgers, and the hip indie-rock soundtrack is restrained enough to enjoy a conversation.
8Information
There are numerous ATMs in the bus terminal, around Plaza de Bolívar and on the Av Circunvalar.
4-72 (Carrera 9 No 21-33; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office.
Bancolombia (Av Circunvalar No 4-48) ATM in the zona rosa.
Tourism Office (cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 17; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) In the Centro Cultural Lucy Tejada.
8Getting There & Around
Pereira’s international Aeropuerto Matecaña (%6-314-8151) is 5km west of the city center, 20 minutes by urban bus; a taxi costs COP$15,000. There are direct flights to Bogotá, Cartagena and Medellín. Copa (www.copaair.com) has direct flights to Panama.
The bus terminal (%6-321-5834; Calle 17 No 23-157) is 1.5km south of the city center. Many urban buses will take you there in less than 10 minutes. There are regular departures to Bogotá (COP$52,000, nine hours). A number of buses go to Medellín (COP$43,000, six hours) and Cali (COP$27,000, four hours). Minibuses run every 15 minutes to Armenia (COP$7000, one hour) and Manizales (COP$10,500, 1¼ hours).
Pereira’s Megabus (www.megabus.gov.co; s ticket COP$1800) system runs crosstown and out to Dosquebradas. It’s similar to Bogotá’s TransMilenio and Cali’s Mio, but on a smaller scale.
The minimum taxi fare is COP$4200 with a COP$800 surcharge after 7pm.
Termales de Santa Rosa
%6 / Elev 1950m
High above the town of Santa Rosa de Cabal surrounded by gorgeous mountain scenery are two thermal bath complexes that make a fantastic Zona Cafetera day trip: Termales de Santa Rosa (%6-365-5237, 320-680-3615; www.termales.com.co; adult/child Sat & Sun COP$52,000/26,000, Mon-Fri COP$34,000/17,000; h9am-10pm) and Termales Balneario (%314-701-9361; www.termales.com.co; adult/child Sat & Sun COP$38,000/19,000, Mon-Fri COP$23,000/11,500; h9am-10pm). Both baths are situated below impressive waterfalls and have a variety of thermal pools of varying sizes and temperatures along with spa treatments. They get busy on weekends but during the week the vibe is generally pretty relaxed.
4Sleeping & Eating
MamatinaHOTEL$$
(%311-762-7624; mamatina.src@hotmail.com; La Leona Km 1 Via Termales; s/d/ste incl breakfast COP$46,000/92,000/140,000)
On the road to the thermal baths just outside Santa Rosa, this excellent-value hotel offers modern, comfortable accommodations with views over the surrounding farms. There’s a popular grill restaurant on-site.
Hotel TermalesHOTEL$$$
(%6-365-5500, 321-799-8186; www.termales.com.co; luxury r per person incl breakfast from COP$190,000; pW)
On the site of Termales de Santa Rosa, Hotel Termales offers accommodations in an old sprawling mansion and two newer wings. Prices include access to four thermal pools. There are often discounts available during the week.
8Getting There & Away
The thermal pools are 9km east of Santa Rosa de Cabal, off the Pereira–Manizales road. Urban buses (COP$1400, 45 minutes) leave from the main plaza in Santa Rosa de Cabal every two hours from 6am to 6pm, returning an hour later from the Hotel Termales. A taxi or jeep from Santa Rosa to either of the thermal complexes runs at around COP$22,000.
There is frequent daytime Santa Rosa–Pereira bus service (COP$2200, 45 minutes). Buses to Manizales (COP$7000, one hour) stop at the gas station on the Pereria–Chinchiná road, four blocks from the plaza.
Termales San Vicente
%6 / Elev 2250m
Set at the head of a steep, forested valley and straddling a cold creek, these thermal pools (www.sanvicente.com.co; adult/child COP$45,000/22,000; h8am-midnight) are only 18km east of Santa Rosa de Cabal but feel a world away.
The complex has seven pools, one of which is reserved for hotel guests, and a spa offering a full range of treatments, including mud therapy, facials, peels and massage. Most visitors hang around in the main pools near the restaurant building, but the natural Piscina de las Burbujas surrounded by greenery near the main gate is well worth checking out. A short walk further down the valley lies the invigorating Rio Termal, where the thermal waters mix with the rushing stream to create amazing natural spas surrounded by thick forest. The complex also has natural saunas built over 80°C to 90°C hot springs. There are also adventure activities, including a canopy line high above the valley (COP$25,000) and abseiling in a waterfall (COP$25,000).
There is a wide range of accommodations (single/double including breakfast from COP$200,000/288,000) on offer inside the complex. Cabins range from split-log rustic to modern minimalist with working fireplaces and private thermal pools. Most have electric shower heads. There are also less appealing hotel-style accommodations and some budget rooms above the reception. Rates include admission and breakfast.
The baths are operated from the booking office (%6-333-6157; Av Circunvalar No 15-62; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) in Pereira, where you can make inquiries. A day package for visitors (adult/child COP$75,000/55,000) runs on Fridays and weekends and includes round-trip transportation from Pereira, admission, lunch and a refreshment. The bus leaves from the office at 9am and returns at 6:30pm.
If you don’t have private transportation and don’t want to go on the package trip, you can hire a jeep from the market – la galería – in Santa Rosa de Cabal (COP$60,000 one way for up to six passengers).
Santuario Otún Quimbaya
This nature reserve 18km southeast of Pereira protects a 489-hectare area of high biodiversity between 1800m and 2400m. Set on the Río Otún, it boasts more than 200 species of birds and butterflies and two rare species of monkey, among other wildlife. The reserve has several hiking trails along the river and through the forest, although visitors are not permitted to explore on their own. Guided hikes (COP$7500) leave at 9am, 11:30am and 3pm. Unfortunately the Cascada Los Frailes – a towering waterfall tumbling down a plant-covered mountain – remains closed.
You’ll pay the admission fee (COP$6000) at the visitor center (Vereda La Suiza; dm/s/d COP$40,000/60,000/90,000). If you’re just visiting for the day, a package is available for COP$29,000 that includes admission, lunch and a guided hike along one of the trails.
Reservations can be made through the excellent community tourism organization Yarumo Blanco (%310-363-5001, 310-379-7719, 314-674-9248; www.yarumoblanco.co).
The visitor center at La Suiza has two floors of accommodations. There are electric showers (24-hour electricity) but no central heating, and fires are not allowed. Alcohol is also prohibited. Ask for a room on the 2nd floor – rooms have small balconies facing the forest filled with birdsong.
The restaurant at the visitor center prepares budget meals (COP$10,000 to COP$16,000).
8Getting There & Away
Transporte Florida (%6-334-2721; Calle 12 No 9-40, La Galería) offers daily chiva services (COP$4000, 1½ hours) at 9am and 3pm from Pereira to the Otún Quimbaya visitor center in the small village of Vereda La Suiza. The chivas continue past the visitor center another half hour to El Cedral (COP$5100), where they immediately turn around and head back. On weekends there are additional services at 7am and noon, although the early service does not continue to El Cedral.
The chiva terminal in Pereira is in a dangerous part of town; ask your taxi driver to take you all the way into the parking area, or pick the chiva up at the Plaza Victoria.
Parque Ucumarí
Established in 1984 just outside the western boundaries of the Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados, this 42-sq-km reserve protects a rugged, forested land around the middle course of the Río Otún, about 30km southeast of Pereira. More than 185 species of bird have been recorded here.
There are ecological paths traced through verdant hills, where you can see lush vegetation and spot some of the park’s rich wildlife, or check out the large waterfall about 30 minutes’ walk from the base at La Pastora.
There is no phone reception in the park itself but you can call community tourism outfit Yarumo Blanco in advance to make your reservations for the refugio and organize guides for the trek in. It is also able to organize guides (COP$180,000 per day) and rent tents for treks to Laguna del Otún and beyond.
From La Pastora you can hike up Río Otún, leading through a gorge to PNN Los Nevados. You can even get to Laguna del Otún (3950m), where there’s a small rangers’ office and a place to pitch a tent (COP$10,000 per visitor). It’s a 12km, six- to eight-hour walk uphill but mules are available to carry equipment.
It’s best to split the trek and stay in a tent or at El Jordán in the simple house of ‘Los Machetes,’ a famously hospitable local family. From El Jordán it’s also possible to hire horses (COP$120,000) for the remainder of the trip up to the lake.
If you stay longer around El Jordán, you can also make some side excursions in the páramo. Conditions are harsh up here – you’ll need to take a guide to show you the way.
The cabins at Refugio La Pastora (%312-200-7711; dm/campsite per person COP$28,000/8000), at an elevation of 2500m, are at the heart of the park and offer simple dormitory accommodations. The ambience here is particularly laid-back; ask the guy who runs the place to build a bonfire – BYO wine and marshmallows.
8Getting There & Away
To get here from Pereira, take the Transporte Florida chiva to El Cedral (COP$5100, two hours). From El Cedral it’s a 5km, 2½-hour walk up to La Pastora, or rent a horse (COP$35,000 one way).