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Chocó

El Chocó is covered in dense jungle and is one of the wettest places on earth. On average, it receives 16m to 18m of rain per year. This defines the region, the people and its culture. When the sun shines, it’s too hot to move too fast, and when it rains – almost every day – no one wants to go out and get wet. No wonder people joke about hora chocoana (Chocó time). Life here is slow.

It’s not a cheap destination. Transportation is mostly in small boats that are much pricier than a comparable journey by bus. Furthermore, accommodations here are far more expensive than similar options elsewhere in Colombia. However, budget travelers should not be totally discouraged. With a bit of planning, a willingness to prepare your own meals and a flexible itinerary, it’s possible to discover this amazing region without breaking the bank.

Bahía Solano

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Bahía Solano is the largest settlement on the Chocó coast. It is famous for its deep-sea sportfishing – some of the best in the world – and as a base to go whale-watching. It sits at the mouth of the Río Jella and faces north into the ocean. The town itself doesn’t have a beach, although at low tide it’s possible to walk around the bay to one and there are many nice stretches of sand a short boat ride away.

1Sights & Activities

Near the town’s south end close to the waterfront, an overgrown path leads upward to a small shrine to the Virgin Mary; it offers great views.

Specialist frog-spotting tours are becoming popular in the jungles around Bahía Solano, and bird-watching, diving and fishing are also good around here.

There is good scuba diving in 500ft-deep Bahía Solano. The warship Sebastián de Belalcázar, which survived the attack on Pearl Harbor, was sunk near Playa Huína to create an artificial reef (Buqué Hundido). Cave divers may like to explore the caves near Cabo Marzo. There are two dive operators in town but they are not always offering dives. Expect to pay around COP$280,000 for two immersions. Posada del Mar (%314-630-6723; posadadelmarbahiasolano@yahoo.es; Barrio El Carmen) has enthusiastic management and offers packages with dives and accommodations; by the bridge over the river, Cabo Marzo (%311-753-2880; blackmarlin19@hotmail.com; Donde Elvis) offers similar dives but is less organized.

Colombia’s Pacific coast is one of the best places in South America to pull in record-breaking blue marlin and sailfish. Expect to pay around COP$1,800,000 per day for four to five anglers. A recommended skipper is Vicente Gonzalez (%320-694-5256; Carrera 4).

Cascada ChocolatalWATERFALL

Near the south end of town you’ll find this impressive waterfall that empties into an icy-cold swimming hole. The jungle towers over you on both sides of the riverbank in a cascade of flowers and birdsong.

Salto del AeropuertoWATERFALL

A short walk from the airport, this high-volume waterfall pours into deep, crystal-clear swimming holes where you can spot giant freshwater shrimp.

Wildlife PacificWHALE WATCHING

(%310-525-0023; www.wildlifepacific.com; half-/full-day trip COP$100,000/145,000; h8:30am-6pm)

Run by marine biologists, this is Bahía’s most complete whale-watching tour. It’s a full-day excursion that includes plenty of explanations and the use of underwater audio equipment to listen to the giant mammals. It also includes a meal in a local community and the chance to relax on an empty beach or at a fresh-water swimming hole.

4Sleeping & Eating

All the hotels in the town itself are down by the waterfront in Barrio El Carmen. If you’re after a cheap, local meal, head to the shacks near the hospital where you can get fried fish and patacones (fried plantains).

oPosada del MarGUESTHOUSE$$

(%314-630-6723; posadadelmarbahiasolano@yahoo.es; r per person with/without bathroom COP$43,000/35,000; W)

The best budget option in town has a number of brightly painted wooden huts dotted around a pleasant garden and cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms on top of the reception. The friendly owners organize whale-watching tours (COP$80,000) alongside other nature activities and are a wealth of information about attractions in the area. Good breakfasts are available for COP$10,000.

Hotel Balboa PlazaHOTEL$$

(%310-422-3377, 323-318-4887; www.hotelbalboainn.com; Carrera 2 No 6-73; s/d incl breakfast from COP$91,000/115,000; Ws)

Built by Pablo Escobar, the Balboa remains the largest hotel in town and is easily the most comfortable, even if it’s slightly ragged around the edges (maintenance is a mission in this climate). The bright, spacious rooms feature split-system air-conditioning and satellite TV; many have private balconies although sea views have been blocked by a new building in front. There’s a rooftop terrace with fine views and a good large pool in the interior courtyard; visitors can swim during the day for COP$5000. Rents bicycles (COP$5000 per hour) for exploring town and heading out to the waterfalls.

La Casa NegraSEAFOOD$$

(Calle 2; mains COP$16,000-25,000; h7am-8:30pm)

In a wooden house in front of the children’s park a block back from the bay, this unsigned restaurant is hugely popular with locals for its tasty seafood plates and typical Colombian meat dishes. Most reliable restaurant in town.

El Pailón SolaneñoSEAFOOD$$

(Donde Doña Haydee; %320-736-9454; Carrera 5, Chocolatal; mains COP$16,000-22,000; h8am-3pm)

One of Bahía’s well-known older residents prepares very traditional seafood dishes in this bright new restaurant on the other side of the river. It’s a little hard to find – take a moto-taxi. Doña Haydee will open in the evening if you call ahead.

Restaurante CazuelaSEAFOOD$$

(Carrera 3; mains COP$20,000-30,000; h8am-9pm)

It doesn’t look like much but this tiny restaurant with a handful of plastic tables serves up a wide variety of excellent seafood dishes including ollitas en salsa (whelks in sauce) and tuna steaks. Don’t expect much in the way of vegetables on your plate. It’s in front of the Banco Agrario.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

BEST BREAKS

El Chocó has Colombia’s best surf spots and the difficult access means you’ll have them all to yourself:

A Pico de Loro, Cabo Corrientes near Arusí – left-hand reef

A Bananal, north of El Valle – left-hand reef

A Playa Almejal, El Valle – beach break

A Juna, north of Valle – right-hand reef

8Information

4-72 (Calle 4; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) Post office agent.

Banco Agrario de Colombia (cnr Carrera 3 & Calle 2; h8-11:30am & 2-4:30pm Mon-Fri) The only ATM in the region.

Internet Doña Olga (Carrera 3; per hour COP$2200; h8am-8pm) Slow internet access but the only option in town.

Super Giros (Calle 3; h7:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) Foreign exchange; domestic wire transfers.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Aeropuerto José Celestino Mutis is serviced by Satena and ADA (www.ada-aero.com), although both companies have suspended services on occasion due to the poor condition of the runway. When the airlines pull out, a posse of charter pilots pick up the slack in their tiny prop planes.

The airport’s nickname is ‘Sal Si Puedes’ (Get Out If You Can). Because of heavy rain, planes are sometimes unable to leave. It would be unwise to book international connections for the same day you leave Bahía Solano.

A moto-taxi to/from the airport costs COP$3000 per person.

BOAT

It’s possible to travel to Buenaventura on the cargo boats that bring in supplies. The journey takes about 24 hours, generally leaving in the afternoon (both ways), depending on the tides. Check on the security situation in Buenaventura before heading out.

The most regular service is the Bahía Cupica run by Transportes Renacer (%2-242-518, 315-402-1563; Muelle El Piñal, Buenaventura). It leaves Buenaventura on Tuesday in the afternoon and returns from Bahía Solano on Saturday around noon. It costs COP$150,000 for a camarote (bunk bed) including meals. Call in advance to confirm departures – you don’t want to get stuck in Buenaventura.

From Bahía Solano you can travel by small boat to Jaqué, Panama (six to eight hours), although boats are very infrequent and usually only leave about once a month. Expect to pay around US$100 per person. Among the captains making the trip are ‘Profesor’ Justino (%313-789-0635; Barrio Nuevo), a veteran of the route who travels with a slow but steady philosophy that avoids unnecessary bumps. He is getting on a bit now and usually takes a younger captain with him to handle the boat.

Be sure to stamp out of Colombia at the Migración Colombia (%321-271-7745; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Calle 3; h24hr) office in Bahía Solano before leaving town. To enter Panama you’ll need a yellow-fever vaccination and enough cash to prove you can travel onward (a minimum of US$500). Once you reach Jaqué and stamp in to Panama, there are flights (US$90) twice a week to Panama City with Air Panama. There is also a boat service once a week for around US$20.

TAXI & MOTO-TAXI

For travel to/from El Valle, shared taxis (COP$10,000, one hour) leave opposite the school when full. An express trip in a moto-taxi costs COP$30,000.

Around Bahía Solano

You don’t have to travel far from Bahía Solano to find the kind of jungle-backed beaches that grace the promotional material for the Chocó. Heading out of town a short distance by boat, there are wonderful solitary stretches of sand well suited to swimming, hiking and wildlife-watching.

Punta Huína

A 20-minute boat ride from Bahía Solano takes you to this pretty beach with a mixture of gold and black sand. It’s lined with coconut palms and several modest resorts and is easily the best beach in the area for swimming.

A small indigenous community lives here along with Afrocolombian villagers. Punta Huína has no phone signal, but a Vive Digital (phone card COP$3000; h8am-8pm) kiosk offers satellite phone calls with the purchase of a prepaid phone card.

There are several jungle walks you can do in the vicinity, including to Playa de los Deseos, Cascada El Tigre and Playa Cocalito.

4Sleeping

Los GuásimosRENTAL HOUSE$

(Donde Pambelé; %320-796-6664; r per person COP$35,000)

One of the best deals on this stretch of the Pacific coast, this small house sits alone on a hill across the river at the end of the beach. It sleeps up to 10, but if you’ve six or more you get the entire place. It has a large deck with magnificent views and a small kitchen to prepare meals.

Most locals don’t know it by name – ask around for Pambelé, the owner who also runs a bar by the river.

Pacific SailfishGUESTHOUSE$$

(%322-442-0386; pacificsailfish@gmail.com; r per person incl breakfast COP$90,000; W)

Under new ownership, this appealing lodge in the village has a variety of neat wooden rooms with small private bathrooms, and arranges sportfishing excursions throughout the region. Prices include transportation from Bahía Solano.

oChoibanaLODGE$$$

(%310-878-1214; www.choibana.com; r per person incl breakfast COP$110,000)

Set on a hillside overlooking a private beach backed by thick jungle, this atmospheric wooden lodge is a great place to take it easy. It has just three rooms – all with private bathrooms – and a porch hung with hammocks offering views across the bay to Playa Mecana. Plenty of space, nature and tranquillity.

It is located on the other side of the headland at the far end of Playa Huína. During low tide it’s possible to walk to the village. Transportation from Bahía Solano is COP$30,000 for up to three visitors.

8Getting There & Away

There is no public transportation to Punta Huína, but many hotels in the area offer transportation. Otherwise, if you hang around the Bahía Solano wharf at lunchtime you should be able to grab a ride with local villagers (COP$10,000). You can also hire an express boat (COP$100,000).

Playa Mecana

Playa Mecana, a lovely long beach strewn with coconut palms, lies a 25-minute boat ride away from Bahía Solano. A short distance upriver from the beach lies the small Afrocolombian/indigenous community of Mecana, which has a fine swimming hole with crystal-clear waters.

Jardín Botánico del Pacífico (%321-759-9012; www.jardinbotanicodelpacifico.org; r per person incl meals & transportation COP$195,000-250,000) is a 170-hectare nature reserve running alongside the Río Mecana made up of mangroves, virgin tropical forest and a botanical garden of native plants and trees. Its staff includes members of the local Emberá indigenous tribe who can take you on fantastic treks through the property. They can also take you on boat rides up the river and organize whale-watching excursions. There is great bird-watching right by the lodge.

It is possible to walk here from Bahía Solano but you must leave at or before low tide (mareada baja). It’s an hour’s walk each way. Alternatively if you hang around at Bahía Solano’s Esso dock you may be able to get a ride with a local villager (COP$10,000). An express boat costs around COP$60,000 for up to eight passengers.

El Valle

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On the southern side of the peninsula from Bahía Solano sits its smaller neighbor, El Valle. At the west end of town is the pleasant Playa Almejal, a wide black-sand beach with fine surf and decent accommodations. El Valle is a good jumping-off point to visit Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría. It’s also a good place to observe sea turtles during nesting season (September to December) and to spot whales off the coast.

1Sights & Activities

Estación SeptiembreWILDLIFE RESERVE

(%314-677-2488; Playa Cuevita) S

On Playa Cuevita, 5km south of El Valle along the coast, is the turtle-nesting sanctuary and research station of Estación Septiembre. From June to December sea turtles arrive to lay eggs. The best time to see them is at night. The conservation project is run by the community organization Caguama – visitors are essential to keep it running. Entry is by voluntary donation.

There are cabins (room per person with/without meals COP$80,000/40,000) you can stay in if you want to spend some time here.

You can walk to the sanctuary from El Valle (two hours), although a local guide is recommended to show you the way. Caguama staff can also organize nighttime turtle-watching tours departing from El Valle.

Cascada del TigreOUTDOORS

(COP$5000)

A tough four-hour walk north of El Valle through the jungle and along the shore takes you to Cascada del Tigre, an impressive waterfall with a swimming hole. Local guides charge around COP$50,000 per person. It’s an exhausting full-day excursion if you travel both ways on foot – consider hiring a boat (COP$50,000 per passenger, 30 minutes) for the return leg.

You can get a typical lunch (COP$15,000) beside the waterfall and there is an open-air thatched hut where visitors can rent a hammock for the night (COP$20,000) or set up a tent. Guests can access a basic kitchen. The early mornings here are spectacular with the sound of the waterfall backed by a cacophony of birdsong. It’s pure nature.

BalmesBIRDWATCHING

(%313-517-5691)

A recommended local bird-watching guide who will take visitors to see both aquatic and jungle species. Ask for him at the Humpback Turtle hostel.

4Sleeping

Posada El NativoGUESTHOUSE$

(%311-639-1015; r per person COP$40,000)

For budget accommodations with a local flavor, head to this pair of thatched cabañas set in a lush garden about 100m back from the beach, run by tourism legend ‘El Nativo’ and his wife. To get here, cross the bridge on the left after the Telecom office and follow the road around.

Humpback TurtleHOSTEL$$

(%314-538-9792; www.humpbackturtle.com; hammocks COP$20,000, dm COP$35,000, r per person COP$60,000)

One of the most remote hostels in Colombia, this hip place at the end of Playa Almejal is right on the beach beside a pair of waterfalls. Accommodations are in a collection of wooden huts surrounded by a veggie garden; all have shared bathrooms. The thatched-roof bar area is a great place to chill when the rains come down.

El AlmejalHOTEL$$$

(%4-412-5050, 320-624-6023; www.almejal.com.co; cabañas per person COP$184,000-265,000)

The most luxurious option in the Bahía Solano area, El Almejal is set on an 8-hectare nature reserve halfway down Playa Almejal. The cabañas here have the most ingenious design – the walls of the lounge area open completely, allowing a breeze to pass through. Meals are served in a spacious open-air dining area.

5Eating & Drinking

Rosa del MarCOLOMBIAN$

(mains COP$13,000-15,000; h7am-8pm)

On the street in front of the church, Doña Rosalia cooks up the best meals in town. Sit down and enjoy fresh seafood in her converted living room in front of the TV.

El MiradorBAR

(h10am-6pm Fri-Sun)

Built on top of a rocky outcropping in the middle of Playa Almejal is El Mirador, one of Colombia’s most spectacular bars. You can sit at the makeshift tables and suck down rum while the stereo blasts vallenato and reggaeton at the crashing waves.

WARDING OFF THE EVIL EYE

Cabalonga, a hard nut grown in the Chocó, is worn on a necklace by indigenous children to ward off the mal de ojo (evil eye) that some elderly women are thought to possess.

8Information

There is no longer a tourist information office in town although the staff at the Parques Nacionales office may be able to answer questions about the area.

The closest ATM is in Bahía Solano.

Internet Martín Alonso (Salida Bahía Solano; per hour COP$2000; h8am-noon & 2:30-5pm) Offers computer rental and paid wi-fi access for phones and laptops.

8Getting There & Around

Shared taxis to Bahía Solano (COP$10,000, one hour) leave when full from outside the billiards hall. Services are more frequent in the morning. An express moto-taxi between the towns costs COP$30,000.

Small boats leave for Nuquí (COP$70,000, 1½ hours) on Monday and Friday afternoons. The departure times depend on the tides.

Taxis and jeeps run from town to Playa Almejal – driving all over an important turtle-nesting beach. Do the turtles a favor and walk – it’s not far.

Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría

This national park (Colombians/foreigners COP$17,000/44,500) is one of the best places to see whales close-up from land. If you have the budget and are not in a hurry, Utría is a magnificent place to get away from it all and contemplate some of Colombia’s most phenomenal nature.

A visit here can be an expensive affair, however, and not all visitors feel that it offers real value. While it is an incredibly beautiful spot there is not actually that much visitors can do on their own and most organized activities involve additional costs.

This is especially true for day trips, which, once you add in transportation costs and the entry fee, make for an expensive meander through the mangroves. The best way to see the park is to get a group together to bring the prices down; some hotels and hostels in Nuquí and El Valle can arrange this.

The only place to spend the night in the park is at the Centro de Visitantes Jaibaná (s/d COP$179,000/299,000), on the eastern shore of the ensenada (inlet), which has refurbished cabins for up to 30 people.

For overnight visitors, meal packages cost a whopping COP$111,000 per visitor.

WORTH A TRIP

JUNGLE LODGING

Located far from other properties on a rugged jungle-covered peninsula around the cape from Termales and Arusí, Punta Brava (%310-296-8926, 313-768-0804; www.puntabravachoco.co; Cabo Corrientes, Arusí; r per person incl meals COP$230,000) is an ideal spot for nature lovers and those looking for total relaxation. Rooms in the wooden lodge aren’t luxurious, but you’ll spend most of your time on the spacious common deck with commanding sea views.

During whale season you can spot the playful mammals right from your hammock. Excellent communal meals are served at the large dining table and it’s blissfully free of wi-fi and television (although staff have a connection in their quarters that they’ll lend you if you really need to get online or make a call). A number of adventurous hikes and activities are offered to guests, or you can just chill on a good stretch of sand a short walk away. Arriving here is like being transported to the lost world – the little boat flies over the waves before pulling into a hidden little harbor where a crystal-clear river flows out from the wilderness into the sea.

8Getting There & Away

If they have space, the public boats from Nuquí to El Valle/Bahía Solano can drop you at the park for COP$70,000, but note that they only run twice a week so you’ll need to spend several nights here.

If you have a group, a private transfer from Nuquí organized through the park costs COP$521,000 for one to four passengers and COP$600,000 for five to seven. Ask around town and you can probably organize your own transfer for less. From El Valle, official transfers run at around COP$302,000.

Alternatively, from El Valle you can organize a guide to take you on foot from town to Lachunga at the mouth of the Río Tundo at the northwestern corner of the ensenada (COP$50,000, four hours). From here you can be picked up in a boat and taken to the visitors center.

Nuquí

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Midway along the Chocó coast is the small town of Nuquí. It boasts a wide beach right in front of town and a long, rugged stretch of sand across the river. A short boat ride away, the secluded beach of Guachalito has some of the best resorts along this coast. A number of indigenous communities live up the Nuquí river but are not in the business of receiving visitors.

The town itself is paved with a mixture of concrete and gravel, but has no car traffic. It isn’t a particularly attractive place but it’s a convenient base from which to explore the gorgeous surrounding area.

1Sights & Activities

Playa OlímpicaBEACH

Just south of the mouth of the Río Nuquí, rugged Playa Olímpica stretches as far as the eye can see. A local named Señor Pastrana can paddle you across the river in his dugout canoe (COP$6000). To find him, walk south along the main beach road, past the church; he lives a block from the river in a wooden house.

Transporte Ecce HomoBOATING

(%320-771-8865, 314-449-4446; Contiguo a Hospital)

With an office near the park, Transporte Ecce Homo offers boat trips all around the region. Sample itineraries include PNN Ensenada de Utría via Playa Blanca and Morromico (COP$90,000), mangroves and thermal pools at Jurubidá (COP$50,000), and to Guachalito including Cascada de Amor and Las Termales (COP$60,000). In whale season all tours include whale-watching.

Prices are per person based on a group of six passengers (varying by group size and gasoline cost). The company also organizes express transportation and has some basic rooms with kitchen access for rent in the office.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most hotels cluster at the northern end of town, near the beach where a nice breeze blows. There are a number of simple posadas in town.

There are just a couple of dedicated restaurants in town; fortunately they both prepare high-quality meals. Most hotels arrange meals for guests.

At the airport local women sometimes sell mecocadas, a tasty confection of coconut and guava paste.

Hotel Palmas del PacificoGUESTHOUSE$

(%314-753-4228; r per person COP$35,000)

The best budget choice in town is a block back from the beach and offers simple, fan-cooled wooden rooms with cable TV and private bathrooms and a terrace with hammocks and glimpses of the sea. It’s not luxurious – you’re not guaranteed a shower head – but it’s clean and tranquil.

Hotel Delfin RealHOTEL$$

(%310-209-4699; Barrio La Union; s/d COP$65,000/80,000; W)

A new, good-value option in town, the Delfin Real has smallish but comfortable all-wood rooms with good sheets and modern bathrooms. Downstairs rooms can be a bit noisy, so go for one on the 2nd floor.

Hotel Nuquí MarHOTEL$$$

(%317-843-7354; www.hotelnuquimar.com; r per person incl 3 meals COP$145,000)

On the beach just past the football field, this hotel has appealing all-wood rooms with screened windows and sparkling tiled bathrooms. The suite on the top floor has a large private balcony. It’s a short walk to town but is far enough away to be peaceful. The staff fight to keep the beach in front clear of rubbish and flotsam.

Aqui es ChirringaCOLOMBIAN$

(meals COP$13,000; h7am-8pm)

The entire family seems to work the kitchen at this simple open-air eatery around the corner from the airport. It serves good-sized plates of tasty regional and Colombian cuisine complete with a bowl of fish soup.

Doña PolaCOLOMBIAN$

(%4-683-6254; meals COP$15,000; h7am-9pm)

Down a side street between the hospital and the football field, Doña Pola cooks up hearty home-style meals.

7Shopping

Artesanías MargotARTS & CRAFTS

(Contiguo aeropuerto; h8am-5pm)

Next to the airport, this small artesanías shop has a great selection of wooden carvings and other local arts and crafts. You might even spot an authentic blow-dart gun.

8Information

There’s free wi-fi in the park in front of the police station, which has turned an almost abandoned public space into a hive of activity.

A Vive Digital kiosk was under construction when we last visited and should offer computers with internet access in the future.

There is no bank or ATM in Nuquí so bring sufficient funds.

Super Giros (%4-683-6067; h8am-noon & 2-6pm) Foreign exchange. You can receive domestic wire transfers here and buy credit for local phones.

Mano Cambiada (%318-432-0163; www.manocambiada.org/en; Adentro oficina de Satena; hhours vary) A community-based tourism organization that runs the accommodations and services in Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría. It also offers general tourism information about the region and can organize tours in many communities. It doesn’t have its own office, instead working out of the Satena building.

8Getting There & Away

Aeropuerto Reyes Murillo (%4-683-6001) is serviced by Satena (%1800 091 2034, 4-683-6550; www.satena.com) and a number of charter companies with direct flights to Medellín and Quibdó. Upon arrival at Nuquí, all visitors are required to pay a COP$9000 tourism tax.

Transporte Yiliana (Donde Sapi; %314-764-9308, 311-337-2839) offers boat services to El Valle (COP$70,000, 1½ hours) on Monday and Friday. Boats usually leave early in the morning. Make sure to book your place in advance. Depending on demand, this service will also drop off at Jurubidá and Utría.

Several cargo boats service Nuquí from Buenaventura. The most reliable is Valois Mar, which departs Nuquí every 10 days. Ask around town for Gigo (%312-747-8374; incl meals COP$120,000), the owner. It’s a 16-hour trip and costs COP$120,000 including meals. Investigate the security situation in Buenaventura before making plans.

Around Nuquí

Not many visitors come to Nuquí to hang out in Nuquí. The real attractions in the region are the unspoilt beaches a short boat ride to the north and south of the town.

Heading south from town there is a string of interesting Afrocolombian communities interspersed with delightful ecological hotels. The most popular beach in the area runs from Guachalito down to the town of Termales and is a true natural playground complete with lush gardens, waterfalls, thermal springs and rivers.

To the north of Nuquí lies the welcoming village of Jurubidá, set between two rivers and fronted by impressive rock formations, and nearby Morromico, a calm, secluded bay backed by dense jungle.

Daily boat service (COP$30,000, one hour) from Nuquí to Arusí, west of Termales, can drop you anywhere along the way. It leaves Arusí at around 6am from Monday to Saturday and returns from the Muelle Turistíca dock in Nuquí just after 1pm.

Jurubidá

This colorful community of brightly painted houses, 45 minutes from Nuquí by boat, has plenty of attractions but doesn’t receive many visitors. The bay in front of the village is dominated by the Archipelago de Jurubidá – a collection of spectacular rock formations covered in forest. When the tide drops, a natural pool forms in the rocks on one of the islands. Jurubidá is the closest village to Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría.While the town and adjacent beach are not always that tidy, it’s nevertheless a good place to get a taste of village life. It’s also a good base from which to organize activities and explore the area.

WORTH A TRIP

COQUí & JOVí

This pair of friendly villages, 25 minutes by boat from Nuquí, are typical small settlements in the region wedged between the jungle and the water. While the towns are not particularly interesting, both have good community tourism organizations. In Coquí, the Grupo de Ecoguias (%310-544-8904; Coquí; per boat COP$70,000) can arrange boat trips through the mangroves. In Joví, Grupo de Guias Pichinde (%321-731-1092; Joví) can take you up the Río Joví in dugout canoes. The latter can also arrange visits to the indigenous villages along the river.

Local villagers rent rooms in their homes for around COP$25,000 to COP$30,000. Accommodations are very basic; make sure you get a mosquito net.

TTours

Grupo Los TermalesADVENTURE

(Termales de Jurubidá COP$10,000, canoe trips COP$10,000-20,000, whale-watching/indigenous community visit per boat COP$120,000/150,000)

A local cooperative that organizes guides to the Termales de Jurubidá, a pair of thermal pools surrounded by dense jungle. The cooperative can also organize canoe trips through the mangroves, whale-watching and boat trips to an indigenous community upriver. It doesn’t have an office or phone number: ask at your hotel or around town.

The thermal-pool trip involves a short canoe ride and a beautiful walk alongside a crystal-clear river.

4Sleeping

Cabaña Brisa del MarHUT$

(Donde Tita; %312-688-7863, 314-684-9401; r per person with/without meals COP$75,000/35,000)

Run by a hardworking local family, this tranquil spot near the river has six simple rooms in a homely thatched-roof cabaña. The owners know what budget travelers want; they prepare meals using produce from their farm and organize all kinds of trips in the area. There is a lovely small balcony with a hammock and beach views.

Ecohotel YubartaGUESTHOUSE$$

(Donde Luciano; %316-779-5124, 316-242-8558; a lado de los termales; tent/r per person COP$25,000/50,000)

Set on a hillside just outside Jurubidá with commanding views of the bay, this new budget travelers’ lodge is a chilled spot to hang out while you explore the area. Accommodations are basic but it’s breezy and you can spot whales right from the deck.

oMorromicoLODGE$$$

(%312-795-6321; www.morromico.com; r per person incl meals COP$387,500)

Situated on a magnificent private beach protected by forested headlands, family run Morromico is a beautiful, small ecoresort surrounded by thick jungle. The hotel is set in lush gardens framed by a pair of waterfalls where you can bathe in crystal-clear mountain waters. The comfortable new hardwood lodge building is both stylish and at peace with the surrounding nature.

The semi-open rooms, powered by a small hydroelectrico plan, have balconies overlooking the beach and big windows that let in the sounds of the jungle. The owners organize boat trips and some fantastic treks through the mountains to local indigenous communities. Rates include three very good meals. Reservations are essential.

Morromico is 15 minutes by boat from Jurubidá.

8Getting There & Away

There is no scheduled public transportation here but there are usually villagers traveling most days to/from Nuquí. In Nuquí, most boats dock at the Almacén Wilmer Torres, a bar/grocery store in the center. The going rate is around COP$20,000 per person for the 45-minute trip. Alternatively you can hire an express boat for around COP$200,000.

Guachalito

A half-hour boat ride west of Nuquí is Guachalito. It’s a long beach, clear of flotsam and debris. There are orchids and heliconias everywhere, the jungle encroaches on the beach, platter-sized mushrooms grow on the trees and coconut palms sway over the gray sand. The Gonzalez family inhabits the beach’s east end, which can feel just a little bit crowded when things are busy. Several more hotels are scattered along the remote 8km of the beach running down to Termales. On the way you’ll pass El Terco and El Terquito, two almost-islands that serve as landmarks. You can walk the length of the beach (1½ hours). It’s best to set out when the tide is low.

A 1km (20-minute) walk from the Gonzalez settlement, 200m inland from the beach, is Cascada de Amor – where a pretty waterfall surrounded by jungle empties into a natural rock pool. A 10-minute walk uphill takes you to an even bigger and more beautiful waterfall, which splits in two streams before filling a swimming hole below.

2Activities

ParaisurfSURFING

(%321-515-8362; board rental per hour COP$25,000)

Located near the almost-island of El Terquito, this little sports shop rents surf boards and kayaks.

4Sleeping & Eating

Originally Guachalito referred only to the Gonzalez family settlement at the eastern end of the beach. Four generations live here, and their four posadas (hotels) – run by competing siblings – offer a variety of accommodations ranging in price and comfort level. To the west of the Guachalito settlement there are a number of ecohotels and resorts. Most offer packages including transportation from the airport, accommodations and food.

Brisas del MarGUESTHOUSE$$

(%311-602-3742, 314-431-2125; r per person with/without meals COP$130,000/70,000)

The best option for budget travelers, Brisas del Mar has a handful of simple rooms in a new construction set just back from the water. Guests can use the kitchen downstairs so bring plenty of supplies from Nuquí. Rooms at the top are better – some open out onto a breezy balcony. The owners run the tourist dock in Nuquí.

oEl Cantil EcolodgeHOTEL$$$

(%4-448-0767; www.elcantil.com; s/d incl meals COP$369,000/612,000) S

The most luxurious hotel on this beach, El Cantil has six duplex cabins surrounded by papaya plants and coconut palms. The restaurant (famous for its food) is perched atop a hill and has sweeping views. A small hydroelectric plant produces power for the restaurant; the cabins are lit by candles. Prices include meals and transportation to/from Nuquí.

Whale-watching expeditions can be organized and surfing guides can show you the best spots.

Pijibá LodgeHOTEL$$$

(%311-762-3763; www.pijibalodge.com; r per person incl meals COP$235,000)

Set among lush gardens, the three duplex cabins of Pijibá are constructed entirely of natural materials and let in plenty of fresh air. A tranquil low-key place to stay just steps from the sand; there’s a little hut for yoga on-site. Food here has an excellent reputation.

Mar y RíoGUESTHOUSE$$$

(%316-426-1009; elmardeldiego@gmail.com; r per person from COP$130,000)

A peaceful family-run affair, Mar y Río is on a quiet corner of beach with a stream flowing by and feels far removed from the tightly packed hotels around the corner. It has good views up the coast and a sweet swimming spot in front. There are two rooms above the restaurant and two self-contained cabañas in the yard.

La Cabaña de Beto y MartaHOTEL$$$

(%311-775-9912; betoymarta@hotmail.com; r per person incl meals COP$250,000) S

This delightful hotel owned by two paisas (people from Antioquia) has four secluded cabins with hammocks and chairs on the deck from which to watch the sunset. The whole thing is set amid a spectacular garden, which includes lots of fruits and vegetables you’ll find on your plate come dinnertime.

8Getting There & Away

The Nuquí-Arusí boat calls at Guachalito on request – be sure to tell the driver where you plan to stay in order to be dropped in the right place. You’ll be dropped on the beach and may have to wade a bit so wear appropriate attire.

Termales

The small village of Termales has a lovely wide stretch of gray-sand beach and a couple of places to stay for those who want to get close to the local culture and a set of relaxing thermal pools surrounded by jungle. As the sun sets children play games of football (soccer) on the beach, while chickens dart across the pitch and, in the distance, older youth take to the waves on boards donated by a nonprofit surf project.

There is no phone coverage in Termales, but business owners generally go elsewhere to check their phones if you want to leave a message.

2Activities

From Termales you can hike the beach in both directions: north to Guachalito or south down to Arusí, but you’ll need to head out as the tide is approaching its low point as there are several rivers to cross.

Surf HouseSURFING

(%320-708-1421; classes per hour COP$35,000)

Friendly instructor and minor local celebrity Nestor offers casual surf classes as well as full eight-hour courses for beginners (COP$250,000). He also organizes excursions to the best surf spots in the region and rents boards.

Las TermalesTHERMAL BATHS

(adult/child COP$12,000/5000, massage per hour COP$60,000; h8am-5pm)

A gravel path leads 500m inland from the village’s one road to Las Termales, a pair of thermal pools set by a rushing stream surrounded by jungle. The site has been tastefully developed by the community and features a restaurant and spa area. Buy your ticket at the office on the road in town before heading down.

CocoterHIKING

(Oficina Corporación Comunitario)

Local community organization that organizes hikes to Cascada Cuatro Encantos – a towering set of waterfalls with good swimming holes surrounded by lush jungle. Expect to pay COP$25,000 to COP$30,000 per hiker for the trip. The office is located next to Refugio Salomon – they don’t use phones.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

ISLA MALPELO

This tiny, remote Colombian island has some of the best diving in the world. A World Heritage site, it’s a mere 1643m long and 727m wide, and is 378km from the mainland. It’s the center of the vast Santuario de Flora y Fauna Malpelo (www.parquesnacionales.gov.co/portal/es/ecoturismo/region-pacifico/santuario-de-flora-y-fauna-malpelo; per day with diving Colombian/foreigner COP$103,000/193,500), the largest no-fishing zone in the Eastern Tropical Pacific, which provides a critical habitat for threatened marine species.

The diversity and, above all, the size of the marine life is eye-popping, and includes over 200 hammerhead sharks and 1000 silky sharks. It is also one of the few places where sightings of the short-nosed ragged-tooth shark, a deepwater shark, have been confirmed. The volcanic island has steep walls and impressive caves.

Dive conditions can be treacherous and accidents are not unheard of. Only advanced divers with experience should attempt this trip.

A contingent of soldiers guard Malpelo, and it’s forbidden to set foot on the island.

With the introduction of new regulations, only boats operating out of Colombian ports may offer trips to Isla Malpelo. This means boats operating out of Buenaventura. But be aware that many pack lots of divers onto each trip and most don’t usually carry nitrox.

One well-run boat is the Sea Wolf operated by the Pacific Diving Company in Cali. Expect to pay around COP$7,000,000 per diver for three days of diving, and up to COP$9,200,000 for eight days in the water. Prices are slightly lower if you share a room.

4Sleeping & Eating

Refugio SalomonGUESTHOUSE$$$

(%314-333-4411; r per person incl meals COP$120,000)

This friendly place has a large balcony overlooking the beach and simple rooms with private bathrooms. It serves tasty home-style meals in the on-site restaurant, which is a good place to eat

La Sazón de YuliSEAFOOD$

(Arusí; mains COP$15,000; h7am-9pm)

If you work up a hunger walking the beach from Termales down to Arusí, stop by this excellent little restaurant to enjoy good fresh seafood dishes made hot to order.

8Getting There & Away

The passenger boat service from Nuquí to Arusí can drop and pick up travelers in Termales. There’s no dock here so you might have to jump into knee-high water to disembark; wear shorts and sandals.

Chocó

Bahía Solano

Around Bahía Solano

El Valle

Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría

Nuquí

Around Nuquí

South Coast

Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona

Pacific Coast

Why Go?

When to Go

Best Places to Spot Whales

Best Places to Stay

Pacific Coast Highlights

National, State & Regional Parks

Chocó

Bahía Solano

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

BEST BREAKS

Around Bahía Solano

Punta Huína

Playa Mecana

El Valle

WARDING OFF THE EVIL EYE

Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría

WORTH A TRIP

JUNGLE LODGING

Nuquí

Around Nuquí

Jurubidá

WORTH A TRIP

COQUí & JOVí

Guachalito

Termales

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

ISLA MALPELO

South Coast

Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona

Pacific Coast