Amazon Basin
Amazon Basin
Why Go?
Amazon. The very word evokes images of pristine jungle, incredible wildlife and, of course, one world-famous river. The region known to Colombians as Amazonia is a vast 643,000-sq-km slice of rainforest accounting for a third of Colombia’s total area – about the size of California – and spread over some eight of the country’s departments. There are no roads here, just fast-flowing waterways and vast tracts of wilderness where, for now at least, humans have had relatively little impact on nature, and indigenous groups deep in the jungle have managed to keep their cultures intact.
Tourism is still relatively undeveloped here, and what little there is can be found in and around the town of Leticia, right on the border with Brazil and Peru. Yet despite a lack of development, a visit here remains a transcendent experience, from thrilling rainforest treks to simple hammock siestas to the sounds of the jungle.
When to Go
- Sep–Nov Lower water levels afford excellent hiking and reveal white-sand beaches on the Río Yavarí.
- Mar–May Get closer to the canopy in wet season for peak bird-watching and wildlife spotting.
- Jul & Aug Loathe mosquitoes? They mostly retreat to the treetops.
Best Places to Eat
A El Cielo
Best Places to Stay
Amazon Basin Highlights
1 Reserva Natural Palmarí Spending a few days observing the abundant wildlife at this wonderful reserve.
2 Puerto Nariño Unwinding in this car-free, impressively sustainable and generally adorable village on the banks of the Amazon.
3 Lago Tarapoto Spotting pink and gray dolphins in the warm waters of this magical jungle lake.
4 Reserva Natural Zacambú Being serenaded by parrots and the calls of dozens of other animals in this rainforest reserve.
5 Río Yavarí Canoeing silently into the jungle up the tributaries of this surging giant.
Leticia
%8 / Pop 42,200 / Elev 95m
The capital city of the Amazonas province, Leticia is the largest city for hundreds of kilometers and yet still looks and feels very much like the small frontier town it is. Located on the Amazon River where Colombia, Brazil and Peru meet, Leticia is some 800km from the nearest Colombian highway, but despite this distance it’s a bustling, thoroughly Colombian place, though Brazilian and Peruvian influences can be felt throughout the town too.
Notwithstanding oppressive heat, stultifying humidity and ferocious mosquitoes, Leticia makes a pleasant base for exploring the rest of the Amazon, though it cannot be stressed enough that the town is no destination in itself. While you’ll normally find yourself spending plenty of time here between journeys into the rainforest, a visit to Leticia is no substitute for the Amazon proper, so be sure to use it as a stepping-stone into the magical selva beyond.
History
Leticia was founded in 1867 as San Antonio. The origin of its current name has been lost to history. In any case, it was part of Peru until 1922, when both countries signed a controversial agreement that ceded the land to Colombia. In 1932 a war broke out between Colombia and Peru, ending in 1933 after the League of Nations negotiated a cease-fire, ultimately awarding Leticia to Colombia. In the 1970s Leticia became a lawless hub of narcotics trafficking until the Colombian army moved in and cleaned things up.
1Sights & Activities
oMundo AmazónicoGARDENS
(%321-472-4346, 8-592-6087; www.mundoamazonico.com; Km7.7, Via Tarapacá; tours COP$10,000; 
h8am-3pm Mon-Sat) 
S
This 29-hectare reserve works as a center for environmental education and makes for a great place to get to know something of the plants, trees and inhabitants of the jungle before you set out on an expedition. The extensive botanical gardens boast some 700 species of flora that can be visited on four differently themed tours (the botanical garden, sustainable processes, cultural presentations and the aquarium), each lasting between 30 and 45 minutes and leaving every hour until 2pm.
You can combine as many tours as you like, and they’ll even serve lunch for COP$20,000 per person if you’d like to make a day of it. Only two guides speak English, though, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and book. To get here from Leticia, take any bus to Km 7.7 and then follow the sign off the main road down the track for 10 minutes.
Museo Etnográfico AmazónicoMUSEUM
(map Google map; %8-592-7783; Carrera 11 No 9-43; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) 
F
This small museum located both inside and outside the dolphin-pink Biblioteca del Banco de la República building has a small collection of indigenous artifacts including musical instruments, textiles, tools, pottery, weapons and ceremonial masks. It’s all labeled in English and makes a good introduction to the indigenous cultures of the region.
Galería Arte UirapuruMUSEUM
(map Google map; Calle 8 No 10-35; h8:30am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 8:30am-noon Sun)
Leticia’s largest craft shop sells artifacts from local indigenous groups, as well as items from a natural Amazonian pharmacy. At the back is the rather dimly lit Museo Alfonso Galindo, which could be from the pages of a Graham Greene novel, featuring a collection of Ticuna crafts and cult objects along with other curios, such as a stuffed pink dolphin. None of the items are for sale, but it’s quite compelling to look around.
Parque SantanderPARK
map Google map; A visit to Leticia’s central square, which is filled with some fairly bizarre civic art and sculpture, is best made just before sunset when you can witness thousands of small screeching pericos (parrots) arriving for their nightly rest.
Reserva TanimbocaOUTDOORS
(%310-791-7470, 321-207-9909; www.tanimboca.com; Km 11 Via Tarapacá; full-day pass COP$120,000, ziplining COP$65,000, kayaking COP$40,000; h8am-4pm; 
c) S
Tanimboca arranges multiday jungle trips from its office in Leticia, but also boasts its own reserve 11km from town where guests stay from the moment they arrive surrounded by jungle instead of in a downtown hotel. Here visitors can monkey around atop 35m-high trees, then slide 80m along ziplines from one tree to another through the beautiful forest canopy.
TTours
The real jungle begins well off the Amazon proper, along its small tributaries. The deeper you go, the more chance you have to observe wildlife in relatively undamaged habitats and to visit indigenous settlements. This involves time and money, but can be immensely rewarding. A three- to four-day tour is perhaps the best way to balance the cost of the trip with the insight it will give you into the workings of the jungle, but it’s also important to mention that expectations must be managed. Significant wildlife spotting is exceedingly rare in the Amazon: the animals are hidden in the canopy, and encroachment by tourism and local customs and industry has driven populations of various species to frighteningly low numbers. You have a reasonable chance of spotting macaws, monkeys and pink or gray dolphins in addition to numerous birds and the occasional odd fauna, but keep in mind that the jungle is more about the sights, sounds and allure of one of the world’s most fascinating and mysterious places than a safari on water.
Several companies organize multiday tours of the small nature reserves along the Río Yavarí on the Brazil–Peru border. Always agree on price, activities and duration before embarking on your trip. Avoid any unsolicited tour guides who approach you in the airport or streets. One good measure of an agency’s professionalism is whether it’s a member of Fonturama (Fondo de Promoción y Desarrollo Turístico del Amazonas; %8-592-4162; www.fonturamazonas.org; Carrera 11 No 9-04; h9am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Sat), a local tourism association that promotes responsible, legal and sustainable tourism. Fonturama can help you find a tour operator if you haven’t booked one before your arrival.
For bigger trips into the jungle, infrastructure is vital, so agencies that run their own reserves have big advantages over those that can do only day trips or overnight stays in local villages.
Amazon Jungle TripsTOURS
(map Google map; %321-426-7757; www.amazonjungletrips.com.co; Av Internacional No 6-25) With more than 25 years of experience catering to backpackers, Amazon Jungle is one of the oldest and most reliable tour companies in Leticia. Owner Antonio Cruz Pérez speaks fluent English and can arrange individually tailored tours, including trips to the two very different reserves the company runs: Reserva Natural Zacambú and Tupana Arü Ü (%321-426-7757; www.amazonjungletrips.com.co)
Zacambú is on the Río Yavarí in Peru, while Tupana Arü Ü is 60km upriver on the Amazon and deeper in the jungle. Both lodges are around an hour’s boat ride from Leticia, though there’s an extra 45-minute walk to Tupana Arü Ü from the river once you arrive at the Amazon settlement of La Libertad. A trip that includes a night or two at both reserves is optimal and surprisingly affordable at COP$290,000 per person per day, all-inclusive. Facilities are simple but include running water and mosquito nets, the food is good, guides are professional and the welcome is warm.
Colombia Remote AdventuresWILDLIFE
(%321-412-8372; www.colombiaremoteadventures.com)
Veteran Amazon tour guide and fluent English speaker Eliceo Matapi Yucuna now runs his own tour company offering all sorts of Amazonian adventures combining cultural exchanges with indigenous people and wildlife adventures deep in the rainforest. At present there is no office in Leticia; everything is managed online and by telephone – talk to Eliceo directly and explain what you want.
Tanimboca ToursTOURS
(map Google map; %310-791-7470; www.tanimboca.org; Carrera 10 No 11-69)
In addition to the activities on offer at Reserva Tanimboca to the north of Leticia, the friendly folks here can organize boat or hiking trips into the jungle outside Leticia, including trips to indigenous villages. The owner speaks German and English, and several of the guides speak English too.
SelvaventuraTOURS
(map Google map; %311-287-1307, 8-592-3977; www.selvaventura.org; Carrera 9 No 6-85)
Owner Felipe Ulloa speaks English, Spanish and Portuguese and can arrange a variety of trips into the jungle to both high-forest and igapó (flooded) ecosystems, as well as selling tickets for various river trips into Peru and Brazil. The agency makes use of the Maloka jungle camp and the less remote Agape (at Km 10).
4Sleeping
Leticia is awash with hotels and hostels, though quality is extremely variable and prices can skyrocket during high season, especially around Christmas and Easter, when Colombians flock to explore the jungle. Note that many hotels are located on the airport road outside of town. While this makes them far less convenient for meals, they are essentially in the jungle canopy if you’d rather avoid the noise and traffic of downtown.
Omshanty Jungle LodgeLODGE$
(%311-489-8985; www.omshanty.com; Km 11 Via Tarapaca; dm/s/d/tr/q COP$15,000/40,000/60,000/80,000/95,000)
In a thick jungle setting and not strictly in Leticia itself, Omshanty is nevertheless an option to consider if you’d rather spend all your time in the Amazon in the jungle. The cabins sleep up to four, and each has its own kitchen for self-caterers. Friendly English-speaking owner Kike organizes jungle excursions.
La Casa del KurupiraHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %8-592-6160, 313-468-0808; www.lacasadelkurupira.com; Carrera 9 No 6-100; dm COP$25,000, s/d COP$60,000/70,000, without bathroom COP$50,000/60,000; 
W)
Operated by the owners of Selvaventura across the street (whose offices also function as a bar and social area for the hostel), La Casa del Kurupira is very clean, bright and modern, with ceiling fans cooling the rooms and a large shared kitchen and roof terrace strewn with hammocks to chill out in. Laundry costs COP$10,000 and breakfast COP$8000.
La JangadaGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %311-582-7158, 312-451-0758; lajangadaleticia@gmail.com; Carrera 9 No 8-106; dm COP$27,000, s/d COP$50,000/60,000, without bathroom COP$35,000/50,000; W)
This simple but good-value and popular central guesthouse can arrange all sorts of river and jungle trips, including excursions on an ecologically sound bicycle-powered boat. There’s a five-bed dorm with a breezy balcony and a hammock, and a few private rooms with fans. Breakfast is included in all categories.
Ayahuasca Amazonas HotelHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %8-592-4356, 311-811-9716; ayahuascaamazonashotel@yahoo.es; Carrera 10 No 3-28; r/bungalow from COP$120,000/145,000; 
aW)
Despite being named for the hallucinogenic indigenous brew, this is no retreat for self-discovery, just an immaculately clean and friendly family-run hotel in a bustling residential neighborhood by the Brazilian border. While the owners speak no English, they look after their guests very well, and can arrange tours and expeditions into the rainforest.
Hotel MalokamazonasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %313-822-7527, 8-592-6642; www.hotelmalokamazonas.es.tl; Calle 8 No 5-49; s/d/tw/tr incl breakfast COP$85,000/150,000/165,000/225,000; aW)
This charming place has been thoughtfully designed, with nine comfortable and attractive rooms set amid a garden overflowing with orchids and fruit trees. There’s an abundance of natural wood furniture and indigenous handicrafts, and the welcome is warm and professional.
oAmazon B&BB&B$$$
(map Google map; %8-592-4981; www.amazonbb.com; Calle 12 No 9-30; s/d incl breakfast COP$185,000/225,000, cabaña s/d/tr COP$250,000/280,000/325,000; aW)
Leticia’s most charming and stylish option, this hotel comprises six cabañas and four rooms surrounding a gorgeous tropical garden. The cabañas are spacious and come with high ceilings, well-stocked minibars and small, enclosed terraces with hammocks. Big discounts are available out of season, but do note that only two rooms have air-con; the others are fan-cooled for environmental reasons.
Zuruma HotelHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %311-262-5273, 8-592-6760; www.zurumahotel.com; Calle 10 No 7-62; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$105,000/164,000/228,000; aW
s)
With its rather modernist two-story blocks at the back of a large courtyard that boasts a very welcome pool to cool off in after a day in Leticia’s relentless heat, the Zuruma has spacious, superclean if somewhat minimalist rooms. The owners may not be natural hoteliers, but the welcome is warm.
Waira Suites HotelHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %8-592-4428; www.wairahotel.com.co; Carrera 10 No 7-36; s/d incl breakfast COP$192,000/296,000; aWs)
Its sleek white building and fittings set it apart from the usual dusty Amazon hotels here, but while it’s definitely comfortable, some rooms are a little small and it’s a little overpriced. That said, the pool is one of the best in town, set amid a blooming garden, and the staff is professional and polite.
5Eating
There are a number of good restaurants in Leticia, although they mostly open only in the evenings. Leticia’s specialty is fish, including the delicious gamitana and pirarucu, which is best avoided out of season as locals ignore bans on catching this species when it’s spawning. Prices can be higher than in ‘mainland’ Colombia, but many restaurants serve cheap set meals.
The Donut CompanyCAFE$
(map Google map; Calle 8 No 7-35; donuts COP$2000-3500; h1-9pm Mon-Sat)
GovindasVEGETARIAN$
(map Google map; %320-487-4066; Calle 11A No 10-56; set-price meal COP$10,000; hnoon–9pm; 
v)
A lifeline for vegetarians in these parts, Govindas serves set-price lunches and dinners from its yoga studio’s terrace on one side of Parque Santander. The fare is unremarkable, but it’s healthy and meat-free.
La Casa del PanBAKERY$
(map Google map; Calle 11 No 10-20; breakfast COP$5000-8000; h7am-noon & 1-8pm)
Facing Parque Santander, this friendly spot for a basic but filling breakfast of eggs, bread and coffee is a favorite with budget travelers.
oEl Santo AngelINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; Carrera 10 No 11-119; mains COP$12,000-35,000; h5pm-midnight Tue-Sat, from noon Sun; W)
With one of the most varied and interesting menus in town, Santo Angel is a rightly popular place for an evening meal. Diners spill out all over the street (try to avoid the rather sterile interior if possible), and there’s often live but not earsplitting musical entertainment. On offer are wraps, nachos, salads, grills, pita bread, burgers and pizza.
Gael Pizzeria GourmetPIZZA$$
(map Google map; Carrera 10 No 14-1; pizzas COP$12,000-30,000; h6-10pm Wed-Mon)
Just the muted lighting and the cute wooden tables at this roadside pizzeria tell you straightaway that it’s unlike most other places in town. Gael prepares mouthwatering pizzas and calzones, as well as pasta dishes and lasagna – easily the best in Leticia!
Numae BistróCOLOMBIAN$$
(map Google map; %320-839-5856; Carrera 11 No 4A-39; mains COP$15,000-35,000; hnoon-10pm)
Situated almost on the Brazilian border, Numae stands out for its raised alfresco dining room with views toward the Amazon and perfectly oriented for diners to enjoy the sunset. Food is of a high standard too, with fresh trout, salmon and a range of steaks on offer, though most visitors come here around 5pm for a few beers.
El CieloAMAZONIAN$$
(map Google map; %8-592-3723; Av Internacional No 6-11; mains COP$15,000-30,000; h5:30-11pm; W)
Showcasing what it sees as the future of local cooking, this cool, creative space serves up casabes (mini pizzas made from yuca instead of flour) with imaginative toppings, including popular local fish pirarucú and tucupi (a cassava extract). Despite its busy location on the main road, the pleasantly lit gravel garden is a lovely place for a meal.
Tierras AmazónicasAMAZONIAN$$
(map Google map; Calle 8 No 7-50; mains COP$17,000-32,000; h7am-10pm Tue-Sun; W)
At first glance, this looks like an unapologetic tourist trap with walls covered in Amazonian knickknacks and folk art pieces all over the place. Nonetheless, it’s a great place for a fun dinner, and one of the few good restaurants open for lunch. The specialty is fish – dorado, gamitana, piranha and tucanare – and that’s what you should order.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Leticia comes to life after sunset at 6pm. As the humidity and temperature drop (somewhat!), locals often find themselves sitting in the streets and the entire town takes on a fun and bawdy air. That bawdiness isn’t always good, though – drugs and prostitution are ubiquitous in the town and make it ill-advised to stray too far from the center after dark.
Mossh BarBAR
(map Google map; Carrera 10 No 10-08; h4pm-2am Tue-Thu, 4pm-4am Fri & Sat)
This surprisingly modish joint facing Parque Santander has a red, white, black and chrome interior and attracts a classier crowd than most bars in town.
Kawanna BarBAR
(map Google map; cnr Carrera 9 & Calle 7; h6pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat)
A good spot for a relaxed beer on the terrace once the sun is setting; there’s also dancing inside later and on weekends.
8Orientation
Leticia is on the banks of the Amazon on the Colombia–Brazil border. Just across the frontier sits Tabatinga, a Brazilian town much the same size as Leticia, with its own airport and port that is the main gateway for boats downstream to Manaus. Visitors can freely move between the two cities as well as the Brazilian city of Benjamin Constant, 25km downstream, and the Peruvian island of Santa Rosa opposite Leticia/Tabatinga. Travelers wishing to venture further into either country must meet immigration requirements.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
A long-standing military presence in the region has tried to keep Leticia/Tabatinga and the surrounding region safe, but there are issues. Former narcotraffickers, guerrillas, paramilitaries and raspachines (coca-plant harvesters) who have been reinserted into mainstream society and now live on the outskirts of Leticia and Puerto Nariño run poker houses, brothels, dubious bars and the like around the city. Don’t wander outside these urban areas on your own at night, especially on Leticia’s infamous ‘Los Kilometros’ road. In Peru, narcotraffickers remain in business in this wayward corner of the country and have harassed tourists who have wandered off the beaten track. Tour operators and lodges in the region have been issued warnings about where they can and cannot bring tourists, so don’t stray on your own beyond areas where local tourism guides normally operate.
EMERGENCY
The main police (%8-592-5060; Carrera 11 No 12-32) station can be found on Carrera 11.
INTERNET ACCESS
Sluggish internet speeds plague Leticia, though nearly every hotel and most restaurants have free wireless for their guests. Claro and Movistar both have offices on Carrera 11 near the Museo Etnográfico Amazónico where you can get a local SIM card with data, though speeds are also very slow compared with elsewhere in the country.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Leticia’s main medical facility is San Rafael de Leticia Hospital (%8-592-7826; www.esehospitalsanrafael-leticia-amazonas.gov.co; Carrera 10 No 13-78).
MONEY
There are ATMs in the town center, and casas de cambio on Calle 8 between Carrera 11 and the market. Shop around; exchange rates vary.
POST
Head to 4-72 (Carrera 11 No 10-44; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) for postal services.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Leticia’s small tourist office (Secretaría de Turismo y Fronteras; %8–592–7569; Calle 8 No 9-75; h7am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 7am-noon Sun) is helpful and friendly.
VISA INFORMATION
Locals and foreigners may freely cross borders within an 80km radius of Leticia, but a passport is needed for points beyond.
If you plan on heading further afield, you must get your passport stamped at the Ministry of Foreign Relations office at Leticia’s airport . Importantly, you must get a second stamp (from either the Brazilian or Peruvian authorities) within 24 hours, so plan carefully. If you have an early departure from Leticia by boat, you’ll need to get your stamp at the airport the day before. Citizens of some countries, including the USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, need a visa to enter Brazil and it may be costly. To avoid a lot of stress and heartache, it’s strongly recommended to arrange your visa before arriving in the Amazon. But if you must, bring a passport photo and yellow-fever vaccination certificate to the Brazilian Consulate . Processing time is one to three days, depending on volume. If you’re coming from or going to Iquitos, get your entry or exit stamp at the Policía Internacional Peruviano (PIP) office (%8-592-7755; Calle 11 No 5-32; h8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) on Isla Santa Rosa, the Peruvian island facing Leticia. Travelers coming here from Brazil who need a Colombian visa may obtain one at the Colombian consulate in Tabatinga.
If you need a Colombian visa extension, there is no need to pay an extension fee. Simply stamp out and head to Brazil or Peru for one day and return for a fresh 60-day stamp.
GETTING INTO THE JUNGLE
Getting truly off the beaten path in the Colombian Amazon can be tricky, especially if you want to combine being in nature with experiencing the daily lives of the indigenous peoples of the region. The best solution is to visit one of the self-contained jungle lodges, which allow you to spend time close to nature while also having basic necessities such as electricity, meals and guides on hand.
With just six gorgeously designed rooms, the tiny Calanoa Amazonas (%350-316-7210; www.calanoaamazonas.com; from COP$445,000 per person per night) jungle lodge truly is a slice of paradise, and one of the few in the Amazon Basin that allow visitors to relax in style. Two activities per day are included, ranging from long jungle hikes to night walks, canoe trips and visits to a nearby indigenous village that the lodge supports. For non–Spanish speakers, a translator costs an extra COP$200,000 per group per day, while the round-trip boat transfer from Leticia costs COP$90,000 per guest, including the pickup from Leticia’s airport.
The small and very rustic family-run Casa Gregorio (%311 201 8222, 310 279 8147; casagregorio@outlook.com; San Martin de Amacayacu; full board per person from COP$180,000) in the Tikuna indigenous community of San Martin de Amacayacu is surrounded by majestic rivers and impressive rainforest. With just two double rooms in the main house and a separate cabin that sleeps five, the guesthouse is fully integrated into the community rather than feeling enclosed or apart. Rates include full board, rubber boots, rain gear, drinking water and all activities, workshops and river trips. You’ll need to book ahead to stay here, as you have to be picked up by the Casa Gregorio staff on arrival at the Bocana Amacayacu dock on the Amazon (COP$30,000 per person).
8Getting There & Away
The only way to get to Leticia is by boat or by air, as there are no roads connecting further into Colombia, Brazil or Peru from here.
AIR
All foreigners must pay a COP$30,000 tourist tax upon arrival at Leticia’s airport, Aeropuerto Internacional Alfredo Vásquez Cobo, to the north of the town.
Avianca (%8-592-6021; www.avianca.com; Alfredo Vásquez Cobo Airport) and Latam (www.latam.com; Alfredo Vásquez Cobo Airport) have several daily flights to Bogotá.
Tabatinga International Airport has flights to Manaus daily. The airport is 4km south of Tabatinga; colectivos (shared taxis, minivans, or midsize buses) marked ‘Comara’ from Leticia will drop you nearby. Don’t forget to get your Colombian exit stamp at Leticia’s airport and, if needed, a Brazilian visa before departure.
When departing Leticia’s airport, all foreigners must check in at Migración Colombia (%8-592-7189; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Aeropuerto Internacional Alfredo Vásquez Cobo; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm & 7pm-10pm Sat & Sun) before proceeding through airport security, regardless of whether they’re leaving Colombia or not; you’ll be directed there after check-in if you haven’t done it already – it’s a painless and free procedure that takes a matter of seconds.
BOAT
Buy tickets for Puerto Nariño and other points upriver at Transportes Fluviales (%311-532-0633, 311-486-9464; Malecon Plaza, Carrera 12 No 7-36). Boats to Puerto Nariño depart from Leticia’s Amazon River dock at 8am, 10am and 1pm daily (COP$30,000, two hours). Arrive in good time for your boat, not least as the dock can be hard to find. You’ll need your passport when buying your tickets.
If you’re departing from Tabatinga (Brazil), be aware that it is one hour ahead of Leticia. Don’t miss your boat!
8Getting Around
The main mode of public transportation is moto-taxis, by the folks on motorcycles who zip around town with an extra helmet. The base rate is COP$2000. Frequent colectivos (COP$2000 to COP$6000) link Leticia with Tabatinga and the ‘Kilometer’ villages north of Leticia’s airport. Minibuses to Tabatinga map Google map; (Cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 8) depart from the corner of Carrera 10 and Calle 8, while colectivos to Leticia Airport map Google map; (Parque Orellana) leave from next to Parque Orellana.
Standard taxis are pricier than in the rest of Colombia; a short ride from the airport to town costs COP$8000, to Tabatinga’s airport COP$15,000 and to the Porto Bras in Tabatinga COP$10,000. You’ll find a taxi stand (Parque Orellana) on one side of Parque Orellana.
Parque Nacional Natural Amacayacu
Sprawling across almost 300,000 hectares, PNN Amacayacu (%8-520-8654; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; adult/students & under 26 COP$38,000/7,000) is an ideal spot from which to observe the Amazonian rainforest up close, with extraordinary biodiversity and lots of wildlife. Sadly, however, following catastrophic flooding, the park facilities have been closed for some time and look likely to remain so in the near future, though it is still possible to enter the park and arrange tours with local indigenous people. Contact a tour operator in Leticia to arrange a visit.
Puerto Nariño
%8 / Pop 6000 / Elev 110m
The Amazonian village of Puerto Nariño, 75km upriver from Leticia, is an inspiring example of human coexistence with nature. Here, cars are banned (the only two vehicles are an ambulance and a truck for collecting recyclables), rainwater is pooled in cisterns for washing and gardening, and electricity comes from the town’s fuel-efficient generator, which runs only until midnight. Every morning, citizen brigades fan out to tidy up the town’s landscaped sidewalks, and Puerto Nariño’s ambitious recycling and organic-waste management programs would put most world cities to shame. As a contrast to dirty and polluted Leticia, it couldn’t be more stark.
The majority of Puerto Nariño’s residents are indigenous Tikuna, Cocoma and Yagua peoples. Their community experiment in ecological living has made ecotourism an important source of income, and this tranquil place is a great base from which to visit beautiful Lago Tarapoto and the Amazon in general.
1Sights
MiradorVIEWPOINT
(Calle 4; adult/child COP$5000/3000; h7am-5:45pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat-Sun)
For a bird’s-eye view of the village and the surrounding jungle and Amazon, climb this impressive wooden tower, located on the top of a hill in the center of the village.
Centro de Interpretación NatütamaMUSEUM
(%313-4568-657; www.natutama.org; COP$5000; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon)
The Centro de Interpretación Natütama has a fascinating museum with nearly 100 life-size wood carvings of Amazonian flora and fauna. There’s also a small turtle hatchery outside.
oLago TarapotoLAKE
Lago Tarapoto, 10km west of Puerto Nariño, is a beautiful jungle lake that is home to dolphins, manatees and massive water lilies. A half-day trip to the lake in a peque-peque (a low-slung wooden boat) from Puerto Nariño (COP$50,000 for up to four people) is the main draw for visitors, who usually take a dip in the gorgeously clear water.
Casa Museo EtnoculturalMUSEUM
(cnr Carrera 7 & Calle 5; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) F
Located in the alcaldía (town hall building), this mini museum has a small display of artifacts from the region’s indigenous populations.
4Sleeping
There are well over 20 accommodation options in town, so you’ll never have trouble finding somewhere to sleep. Some hotel owners wait at the dock to meet the arriving boat from Leticia.
Maloca NapüGUESTHOUSE$
(%315-607-4044, 311-523-3409; www.malocanapu.com; Calle 4 No 5-72; r per person with/without balcony COP$30,000/25,000; 
i)
Perhaps the most charming guesthouse in town, Maloca Napü has the look and feel of a tree-house fort, surrounded as it is by a thickly forested garden. The rooms are simple but comfortable, with basic furnishings, fans and shared bathroom with super-refreshing rain-style showers. Everyone who works here is above-and-beyond friendly.
Cabañas del FraileCABAñAS$
(%311-502-8592, 314-201-3154; altodelaguila@hotmail.com; dm COP$20,000, r per person with/without bathroom COP$30,000/25,000)
In the jungle outside the village, friar Hector José Rivera and his delightful monkeys run this hilltop oasis overlooking the Amazon. The complex includes several simple huts, shared facilities and a lookout tower. Between the monkeys, turkeys, dogs and macaws roaming about, there’s a real menagerie to enjoy, along with utter isolation and free use of canoes on the Amazon.
To get here, take the main street (parallel to the Amazon, two blocks back) west out of town across the big bridge to the well-maintained sidewalk; keep left at the cemetery and walk through the high-school campus (fascinating in itself), then turn right immediately after passing the school soccer pitch.
Hotel Lomas del PaiyüHOTEL$
(%313-268-4400, 313-871-1743; hotellomasdelpaiyu@yahoo.com; Calle 7 No 2-26; s COP$30,000-45,000, d COP$60,000-90,000) S
This tin-roofed 22-room hotel is a reliable choice and has quite a bit of rough charm. Some bathrooms are almost as big as the fan-cooled rooms, and while the cheaper options come in the form of rustic cabañas with communal hammocks, the very nicest double has a gorgeous balcony with town views. The hotel plants a tree for each guest.
Waira Selva HotelHOTEL$$
(%8-592-4428; www.wairahotel.com.co; Carrera 2 No 6-72; s/d/t incl breakfast COP$98,000/140,000/198,000)
The smartest place in town, the Waira Selva allows you to do the jungle in some comfort, with 13 spacious and comfortable rooms that feature lots of dark wood, have ceiling fans and balconies, and share access to a rather quirky tree-house-style viewing platform overlooking the village. Bookings are handled by the hotel’s sister property in Leticia.
8GETTING TO PERU
High-speed passenger boats between Tabatinga and Iquitos (Peru) are operated by Transtur (%in Iquitos 51-65-29-1324; www.transtursa.com; Jirón Raymondi 384) and Transportes Golfinho (%in Iquitos 51-65-225-118; www.transportegolfinho.com; Rua Marechal Mallet 306, Tabatinga). Boats leave from Isla Santa Rosa daily around 5am except Monday, arriving in Iquitos about 10 hours later. Don’t forget to get your Colombian exit stamp at the Leticia airport’s Migración Colombia office the day before departure. (There is another office of Migración Colombia (Calle 9 No 9-62; h7:30am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 7:30am-noon & 2-4pm Sun) in town, but go there only for visa extensions and residency issues.) You can buy tickets through Selvaventura in Leticia, as neither company has an office in town.
The journey costs US$70 in either direction, including breakfast and lunch (mint-condition banknotes only; or COP$200,000). During dry season you can sometimes access Isla Santa Rosa only from Tabatinga’s Porta da Feira, where water levels are always high. Check ahead. In fact, it’s always easier in the middle of the night to go from Tabatinga, but taxi prices from Leticia can skyrocket to COP$30,000 for the ride.
Be warned: there are slower, cheaper boats to Iquitos, but they are not comfortable, are often unsafe and are best avoided.
Note there are no roads out of Iquitos into Peru. You have to fly or continue by river to Pucallpa (five to seven days), from where you can go overland to Lima.
5Eating & Drinking
Nightlife in Puerto Nariño involves drinking at one of the hole-in-the-wall bars fronting the basketball courts. Unlike in Leticia, it’s quite safe to walk around after dark in this friendly and secure village.
Restaurante El CalvoCOLOMBIAN$
(Carrera 1 No 6-10; meals COP$7,000-10,000; h7am-10pm)
Facing the sports grounds on Puerto Nariño’s main street, this friendly place is one of the best local spots for a simple meal of grilled meat, a burger or a hot dog. There is also a range of delicious fruit juices on offer.
(Calle 6 No 6-80; set-price meals COP$15,000; hnoon-3pm)
Under a huge palapa (thatched roof) just beyond the soccer pitch, lunch-only Las Margaritas is the best restaurant in town, even if it’s rather pricey by local standards and aimed almost entirely at visiting tour groups. The buffet-style meals are delicious, though, but come in good time as it can get swamped if there’s a large tour group in town.
8Information
There are no banks or ATMs in Puerto Nariño, and credit cards are not accepted anywhere, so bring plenty of cash from Leticia if you plan to do excursions into the jungle from here, as prices add up quickly.
There’s a small tourist office (%313-235-3687; cnr Carrera 1 & Calle 5; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) inside the town hall.
There’s a small and basic hospital (cnr Carrera 4 & Calle 4) in Puerto Nariño, but for any serious medical problem, you’ll need to return to Leticia.
8Getting There & Away
High-speed boats to Puerto Nariño depart from Leticia’s dock at 8am, 10am and 1pm daily (COP$30,000, two hours); return-trip boats to Leticia depart at 7:30am, 11am and 3:30pm.
You can purchase tickets at Transportes Fluviales (%8-592-6752; Muelle Turistico) near the riverfront in Leticia. Boats can get very full, so buy your tickets early or the day before.
Río Yavarí
Within reach of large stretches of virgin forest, the meandering Río Yavarí offers some of the best opportunities to see the Amazon up close and undisturbed. Two privately owned reserves provide simple accommodations plus guided tours and activities, including kayaking, bird- and dolphin-watching, jungle treks and visits to indigenous settlements. These make for some of the most accessible and relatively comfortable destinations in the rainforest and are highly recommended.
When planning a visit, bear in mind that costs take into account the number of people in the party, length of stay, season and number of guided tours; count on COP$180,000 to COP$350,000 per person per day, but as a rule, the more of you there are the better deal you’ll get.
Reserva Natural Palmarí
About 105km by river from Leticia, Reserva Natural Palmarí (%310-786-2770; www.palmari.org) S sits on the high south (Brazilian) bank of the Río Yavarí, overlooking a wide bend where pink and gray dolphins often gather. It’s the only lodge with access to all three Amazonian ecosystems: terra firme (dry), várzea (semi-flooded) and igapó (flooded).
The lodge itself is rustic, much of it rebuilt after arsonists set fire to it in 2010. It has helpful guides employed from the surrounding community (so no English, but mucho authenticity and expertise), and offers a wide choice of walking trips and night treks, boat excursions and kayaking trips. You’ll find Palmarí offers the best walking options around the region, is the only option to encounter terra firme forest and is the best spot in the region to see animals, including tapirs, and for the supremely lucky, jaguars.
Access to the reserve is exclusively by private launch from Tabatinga (COP$100,000 per person). Journey time to the reserve is between 45 minutes and two hours depending on the water levels. To arrange the transfer, you’ll need to speak with owner Axel Antoine-Feill (%310-786-2770, 1-610-3514), who speaks fluent English. His representative in Leticia is Claudia Rodriguez (%318-362-0610, 322-557-7161).
Reserva Natural Zacambú
Reserva Natural Zacambú is one of the jungle reserves nearest to Leticia, about 70km by boat. Its lodge (%321-426-7757; www.amazonjungletrips.com.co; COP$290,000 per person per day all inclusive) is on the Río Zacambú, a tributary of the Río Yavarí, on the Peruvian side of the river. Zacambú sits on a flooded forest that is a habitat for many species of butterflies, but unfortunately is also a popular hangout for mosquitoes. Its proximity to Peruvian communities also means it’s not the best spot for wildlife, though it’s still easy to see dolphins, piranhas and caiman in the river, as well as a rich variety of birdlife in the jungle. Both the lodge itself and tours are run from Leticia by Amazon Jungle Trips, and it’s one of the easier places to access in order to explore the natural world.