Every nation seems to have a north–south divide, and Germany is no exception. Travel up here from even northerly Berlin and you’ll notice a difference—the salt tinged breezes off the Baltic Sea, the distinctive brick gabled houses favored by Hanseatic merchants and seafarers, a preference for herring and other fish, the long winter nights and long summer days, the palpable presence of Scandinavia. Our coverage focuses on two of northern Germany’s standouts, the dynamic port city of Hamburg and medieval Lübeck, an architectural treasure trove.
285km (177 miles) northwest of Berlin
Hamburg’s is a tale of two cities…or three, or four. Germany’s second largest city, after Berlin, and Europe’s second-largest port, after Rotterdam, has so many facets that visitors stumble into one fascinating cityscape after another. The copper-roofed tower of old baroque Hauptkirche St. Michael’s rises next to glass and steel office buildings. The port, with its wharfs, cranes, dry docks, and a flotilla of ships coming and going day and night rambles along the banks of the Elbe River as far as the eye can see. A maze of canals laces through the old city, lined with sturdy brick warehouses where Hamburg merchants once stashed carpets, tea, and the other lucre of trade. These days boldly designed high-rise corporate headquarters—Hamburg is a media capital and industrial center—are the powerhouses of wealth and influence. Elegant 19th-century facades along the shores of the Alster, the shimmering lake at Hamburg’s center, and Jugenstil (art nouveau) villas scream bourgeois comforts; smart-phone-toting Armani clad execs carry on the legacy of well-fed Middle Age burghers who made fortunes after Frederich Barbarossa declared the city a free port in 1193. Then there’s Hamburg’s underbelly—the infamous Reeperbahn, the sleazy avenue where “Hiya sailor” is the anthem of easy virtue. The stag partiers and other denizens of the night who dip into this slice of lowlife are onto something—Hamburg might be business-minded, even stuffy in places, but it can also be a lot of fun, whatever your notion of a good time is. That might also mean gazing at an Expressionist canvas in the Kunsthalle, or watching Hamburgers haggle over the price of cod at the Fischmarkt, or cruising past architectural stunners in HafenCity, a brand new waterfront quarter. As you get to know Hamburg, you will be surprised at just how easy it is to succumb to this city’s charms and how many there are.
BY PLANE Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel, 8km (5 miles) north of the city center, is served by frequent flights to and from major German airports and many European and intercontinental destinations. Lufthansa (
01803/805805; www.lufthansa.com) flies into Hamburg from most major German and European cities, and many national carriers also serve Hamburg, including Air France from Paris and British Airways from London. United Airlines offers nonstop service from the United States (from Newark) but on most carriers a flight from the U.S. requires a change in Frankfurt or another European hub. For flight information in Hamburg, call 040/50750 or visit www.ham.airport.de.
The ultramodern terminal, with a roof shaped like an enormous airplane wing, is well-equipped wth shops and boutiques—even a branch of Harrods of London—as well as restaurants and other establishments.
During the day the S-Bahn (suburban rail network) line S1 operates every 10 minutes between the airport and Hamburg’s central railway station, Hauptbahnhof (the trip takes 25 min.). The airport (Flughafen) S-Bahn station is directly in front of the air terminals. The one-way fare to the center is 3€, or 1.50€ for ages 11 and under.
BY TRAIN There are two major rail stations, the centrally located Hamburg Hauptbahnhof, Hachmannplatz 10 ( 040/39183046; www.bahn.com), and Hamburg-Altona ( 040/39182387; www.bahn.com), at the eastern edge of the Altstadt. Most trains arrive at the Hauptbahnhof, although trains from the north of Germany, including Westerland and Schleswig, arrive at Altona. The two stations are connected by train and S-Bahn. Hamburg has frequent train connections with all major German cities, and is a hub for international routes as well. From Berlin, 15 trains arrive daily (trip time: 2½ hr.), 37 from Bremen (trip time: 54 min. to 1 hr., 16 min.), and 33 from Hannover (trip time: 1½ hr.). For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.com).
BY BUS Information about short-haul buses from surrounding towns and villages is available from Hamburger Verkehrsverbund ( 040/19449; www.hvv.de).
BY CAR The A1 Autobahn reaches Hamburg from the south and west, the A7 from the north and south, the A23 from the northwest, and the A24 from the east.
Tourist-Information, in the Hauptbahnhof, Kirchenallee exit ( 040/30051300), is open Monday to Saturday 8am to 9pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm (phone inquiries are accepted Mon–Sat 9am–7pm). Another office, Port Information, near the harbor landing stage in St. Pauli on Landungsbrücken ( 040/30051300), is open April to October daily 8am to 6pm, and November to March daily 10am to 6pm. There is another tourist office at the airport, at terminals 1 and 2 (arrivals area), open daily 6am to 11pm. You may also contact the visitor information hot line at 040/30051300 or see www.hamburg-tourism.de.
A couple of things to keep in mind. One, Hamburg is not compact and can’t be easily covered on foot; you’ll probably have to depend on public transportation or taxis. Two, think water. Hamburg lies on the Elbe River, 109km (68 miles) from the North Sea, and water seems to be everywhere in this city that is centered around a lake, the Alster; faces a busy harbor; and is laced with canals. (These canals are commercial and industrial waterways, lined with docks and warehouses; don’t fall for the touristic mumbo jumbo that Hamburg is the Venice of the North, because busy, business-minded Hamburg in no way resembles that Italian city.)
The Alster, often sparkling with white sails, is divided by bridges into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster). Busy avenues, including the elegant, shop-lined Ballindamm, flank the Binnenalster, as do such noteworthy landmarks as the Colonnaden, an arcade of shops and cafes, and the Hamburgische Staatsoper, the opera house.
The Altstadt (Old Town) is south of the Binnenalster, tucked between the lakeshore and the Elbe River waterfront. The Hauptbahnhof is on the eastern fringe of the Altstadt, and the Rathaus, the Renaissance-style city hall, and adjacent Rathausmarkt are on the western edge. Two major shopping streets run between the Hauptbanhof and the Rathausmarkt, the Spitalerstrasse (a pedestrian mall) and Mönckebergstrasse, paralleling it to the south.
A new district, HafenCity, is growing up south of the Altstadt in former docklands that extend 3km (2 miles) along the Elbe River. At the moment much of HafenCity looks like a forest of cranes rising above construction sites, but it’s predicted that by 2020 or so a concert hall, bars, slick office buildings, and hundreds of waterfront apartments will have transformed the docklands into the city’s new pride and joy.
St. Pauli, west of the Altstadt, is the Hamburg’s famous red light district, where shops and clubs line the lurid Reeperbahn, a street where sex is sold over-the-counter, not under.
Hamburg’s commercial and shopping districts are on the southernmost shores of the Alster (the lake at the city center) and in the Altstadt (Old City), around the Rathaus (City Hall). Don’t look for a lot of historic charm—there certainly is some, though World War II laid waste to much of it. Notable survivors include the city’s distinctive red-brick warehouses that line canals near the waterfront, and some noble landmarks, such as St. Petri Church with its skyline-piercing dome. St. Georg, an inner city neighborhood running alongside the lake just north of the Hauptbanhof, is one of many old quarters that have been gentrified in recent years. Parts are still a bit dodgy, but leafy streets near the lake, especially the Langhe Reihe, are lined with cafes and restaurants, some catering to gays, and some of the city’s most character-filled hotels are in this old neighborhood.
The Port of Hamburg is the world’s fifth-largest harbor, stretching for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River. Hamburg has been one of the busiest centers of trade on the Continent for almost ten centuries and is, largely as a consequence of this maritime trade, one of Germany’s wealthiest cities. HafenCity, Europe’s largest inner-city urban development project extends for 3km (2 miles) along the Elbe River. The emerging district is expected to double the population of central Hamburg with thousands of waterfront apartments, and includes a concert hall, bars, and slick office buildings.
Hamburg’s infamous nightlife and red-light district centers on the Reeperbahn, neon-lit and garrish and offering all sorts of pleasures—cafes, sex shows, bars, dance clubs, and music halls. This maritime quarter is a lot less raucous than it once was and these days many habitues are more intent on drinking and dancing than paying for companionship.
Once populated mainly by Jews and Portuguese, this western district is the scene of some great dining and nightlife. Those in search of more traditional pursuits can wake at the crack of dawn on Sunday to check out what’s happening in the stalls of the historic Altona Fischmarkt.
Many villas dating from the 1800s and some stunning Jugendstil buildings line the streets of tree-filled residential districts around the Aussenalster. A particularly attractive lakeside enclave is Harveststude, since the 19th-century home to Hamburg’s wealthy burghers and whose villas are now occupied by many foreign consulates.
A word to the wise: Park your car and use public transportation to avoid traffic and the hassle and expense of parking.
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Hamburg’s U-Bahn, one of the best subway systems in Germany, connects with the S-Bahn surface trains. This network is the fastest means of getting around, though buses are also fast and efficient and travel in special lanes throughout the city center. For information, call 040/19449.
Single tickets for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and the bus cost 2.80€ for citywide service and 1.30€ for trips within the center city. A 3-day pass for 1 person costs 17€.
The Hamburg Card offers unlimited travel on all public transport in Hamburg, as well as discounts to museums, other attractions, and city tours. A 1-day card costs 8.90€ for individuals or 15€ for families (one adult and up to three children 14 years old and under). A 3-day card costs 22€ for individuals and 39€ for families, and a 5-day card costs 38€ for individuals and 64€ for families. You can get these cards at some hotels, major U-Bahn stations, and the tourist office, or go to www.hamburg-travel.com or call 040/30051300.
The U-Bahn (subway), S-Bahn (city rail), A-Bahn (commuter rail), buses, and harbor ferries are run by Hamburger Verkehrsverbund (HVV), Steinstrasse 12. For information, call 040/19449 (www.hvv.de). Tickets are sold at machines in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations, on buses, and at railroad ticket counters.
BY TAXI Taxis are available at all hours; call 040/211211 (www.taxi211211.de). Taxi meters begin at 2.70€ and charge 1.70€ per kilometer after that.
Business Hours Most businesses and stores are open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm and Saturday 9am to 2pm (to 4 or 6pm on the first Sat of the month). Note that most stores are not open on Sunday or in the evenings.
Car Rentals We don’t recommend that you rent a car for touring Hamburg, and you can easily reach Lübeck and other outlying towns by train. If you do require a car, you’ll find all the major agencies at the airport; Go to Page for info on car rentals in Germany.
Consulates Consulate General of the U.S., Alsterufer 27–28 ( 040/41171415); British Consulate-General, Neuer Jungfernstieg 20 ( 040/4480326).
Currency Exchange You’ll find ATMS throughout Hamburg. If you require the services of a bank, try the ReiseBank at the Hauptbahnhof ( 040/323483), which is open daily 7:30am to 10pm and has a number of English-speaking staffers. The same bank maintains a branch at the Altona Station ( 040/3903770), open Monday to Friday 7:30am to 8pm, and Saturday 9am to 2pm and 2:45 to 5pm. There’s also a branch in Terminal 2 of Hamburg’s airport ( 040/50753374), open daily 8am to 9pm.
Doctors & Dentists Ask at the British or American consulates, or go to the large medical center in St. Georg, Allgemeines Krankenhaus Sankt Georg, Lohmühlenstrasse 5, 20099 Hamburg ( 040/1818850; U-Bahn: Lohmühlenstrasse), where you’ll find an English-speaking staff.
Drugstores Large pharmacies with English-speaking staff include Roth’s Alte Englische Apotheke, Jungfernstieg 48 ( 040/343906; U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg), open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 8pm and Saturday 9am to 6pm.
Emergencies Dial 110 for the police; for an ambulance, an emergency doctor or dentist, or the fire brigade, dial 112.
Post Office The post office at the Hauptbahnhof, Hachmannplatz 13, is centrally located. You can make long-distance calls here far more cheaply than from your hotel. It’s open Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm, Saturday 8am to 6pm, and Sunday 10am to 4pm. A branch office located at the airport is open Monday to Friday 6:30am to 9pm, Saturday 8am to 6pm, and Sunday 10am to 6pm. For information on either post office, call 01802/3333.
Safety Hamburg, like all big cities of the world, has its share of crime. The major crimes that tourists encounter are pickpocketing and purse/camera snatching. Most robberies occur in the big tourist areas, such as the Reeperbahn and the area around the Hauptbahnhof, which can be dangerous at night.
Toilets There are decent public facilities in the center of Hamburg, and the Hauptbanhof has several. Expect to pay about 1€ to use them.
Transit Information For U-Bahn and S-Bahn rail information, call the Hauptbahnhof, Hachmannplatz 10 ( 01805/996633; www.bahn.com).
It seems that just about every major international chain on earth has an outpost in Hamburg, so if familiar surroundings are what you want, you won’t have any trouble finding them. But Hamburg also has some truly distinctive lodgings, from legendary landmarks to hip hostels. Some are in your face with over-the-top design, others stress low-key comfort. You’ll probably want to stay near the center of this far-flung metropolis—choice locales are the cental city in the Altstadt and around the Alster, and near the waterfront, around the port and St. Pauli. A hotel in any of these spots will put you within easy reach of sights, restaurants, and nightlife. If you need a room last minute, stop by Hamburg’s Tourismus Centrale (Tourist Information Office) in the Hauptbahnhof ( 040/30051300; www.hamburg-tourism.de), where a counter can book accommodations. Rooms in more than 200 hotels in all price categories are available. There’s a fee of 5€ per reservation. You can use this agency on a last-minute basis, but no more than 7 days in advance of the time you’ll need the room. Hotel-booking desks can also be found at the airport in Arrival Hall A.
The George 
A handsome library and some other clubby touches play off the English-sounding name, but for the most part these lodgings at the edge of the St. Georg neighborhood give off a chic, contemporary vibe. More than half of the handsome guest rooms open to balconies, as do most of the corner suites. In all, dark carpeting, subdued lighting, and sleek furnishings enhanced with rich fabrics ensure a nice refuge from the busy city. Especially relaxing are the friendly, ground-floor Ciao bar and the top-floor spa and sauna, where a lounge and terrace overlook the Alster.
Barcastrasse 3. 
040/2800300. Fax 040/28003030. www.thegeorge-hotel.de. 125 units. 155€–216€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Parking 16€. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; concierge; health club and spa; room service; free in-room Wi-Fi.
Kempinski Hotel Atlantic The first thing to know about this gleaming white palace on the shores of the Alster, built for transatlantic passengers in the early 1900s, is that it’s one of the world’s truly legendary hotels. The second is that with a little internet sleuthing you can book one of the commodious, high-ceilinged guest rooms, not too many of which are alike, for not much more than what you’d pay for a business-oriented hotel in Hamburg. Of course, many of the guests could care less about costs: Madonna, Mick Jagger, Elton John, and a long roster of other notables stay here when in town, as do savvy travelers who feel at home in the surprisingly cozy lounges, sophisticated art deco bar, and guest rooms well stuffed with comfy arm chairs and plump bedding. No doubt they all enjoy the sweeping staircases, lake views, indoor pool, meticulous service, and atmosphere that is a lot more laid back than you’d expect from such regal surroundings.
An der Alster 72–79. 800/426-3135 in the U.S., or 040/28880. Fax 040/247129. www.kempinski.atlantic.de. 252 units. 179€–400€ double; from 423€ suite. Parking 32€. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Near the Aussenalster. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bikes; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (fee).
Hotel SIDE 
Offbeat and postmodern, built around an elliptical atrium, this design statement in steel and glass puts you right in the heart of Hamburg while giving you a break from the typical chain hotel circuit. Matteo Thun, the well-known Milan designer, left nothing to chance in creating neutral-toned bedrooms that are not only airy and stylish but also extremely comfortable, with lots of surfaces and places to tuck clutter away and equipped with commodious, snazzy bathrooms embellished with glass sinks and big windows; suites float above the city in special glass-enclosed quarters cantilevered above the main structure. A rooftop lounge and terrace and spa with an indoor pool add even more pizazz to a stay in this haven of high style.
Drehbahn 49. 040/309990. www.side-hamburg.de. 178 units. 150€–300€ double. Parking 20€. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt or Stephansplatz. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (fee).
Superbude It’s a little too cool for it’s own good sometimes—montages made from newspaper clippings on the walls, funky furnishings fashioned from crates, lots of high-tech lighting. But if that’s the only snarky thing to be said about an incredibly fair-valued hostel, the place must be okay. And Hamburg’s best lodging deal has plenty to commend it. Functional though colorfully stylish lounges and rooms are spotless, fridges are stocked with cheap beer, the breakfast is substantial, the beds are super comfortable, and bathrooms are modern and spiffy. A lot of rooms are cozy doubles and can be let as singles, though young backpackers and young at hearts on a budget often opt for a bunk in a four-bedded room. There are two Superbudes: This one’s in the St. Georg district, where you’ll be not too far from the lake and some good ethic restaurants, and another one is in the midst of St. Pauli nightlife.
Spaldingstrasse 152. 040/3808780. www.superbude.de. 64 units. 59€–133€ double. Parking 5€. U-Bahn: Berliner Tor. Amenities: Cafe; bikes; free in-room Wi-Fi.
Wedina 
You can chose from a lot of options at this stylish and low-key retreat near the shores of the Alster: a choice of pillows and bedding, the style of decor (traditional or soothing minimalist), which of four buildings you prefer (from a 19th-c. villa to a sleek concrete and glass modern annex), even where you want to enjoy breakfast—in a conservatory that, like many rooms, overlooks a lovely Italianate garden or, in good weather, the garden itself. Many famous writers like to lay low in these soothing surroundings while in Hamburg on book tours and to lecture, and autographed copies of many modern masterpieces are proudly on display. You’ll find plenty of other reading matter lying around the cozy library, or you can rent a bike for a spin around the lake. There are no elevators, and some especially spacious and attractive units are multilevel, so if stairs are an issue, ask for a room that requires a minimum of climbing.
Gurlittstrasse 23. 040/2808900. www.wedina.de. 59 units. 118€–170€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Bus: 6. Near the lake, a 5-min. walk from the Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Bar; bikes; free in-room Wi-Fi.
East Style has soul in this sophisticated redo of a formidable, red-brick early 20th-century iron foundry where minimalist design is accented with exposed brick, wrought iron, and natural fabrics to create a transporting environment that is surprisingly warm and welcoming and vaguely exotic. Nattily curved headboards separate even the smallest rooms into lounging and sleeping areas, while bathrooms are tucked away behind floating curtains and have separate WC and showers cabins with rainfall shower heads. A modernistic candlelit bar, soaring Eurasian restaurant, leafy courtyard, rooftop terrace, and gym and spa provide plenty of in-house diversions, and St. Pauli nightlife is just outside the door.
Simon-von-Utrecht Strasse 31. 040/309930. www.east-hotel.de. 78 units. 155€–290€ double. Parking 14€. U-Bahn: St. Pauli. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service; spa; A/C, T hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (in most; free).
Hafen Hamburg This waterside complex does not have a lot of designer flash and flair but the modern, businesslike accommodations put you within easy walking distance of St. Pauli nightlife. Best of all, a room with a view here provides a front row seat for the comings and goings in the busy harbor below, and many city sights are an easy stroll or short U-Bahn ride away. This sprawling complex encompasses a 19th-century seafarer’s residence and two modern towers—rooms in all are functionally comfy and enlivened with nautical prints, but only some have water views—that’s why you’re staying here, so make sure to request one when booking.
Seewartenstrasse 9. 040/311130. www.hotel-hafen-hamburg.de. 355 units. 100€–200€ double. Parking 14€. U-Bahn: Landungsbrücken. Amenities: Restaurant; 3 bars; sauna; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby).
25hours Hotel HafenCity If you’re smack dab in the middle of Hamburg’s new waterfront district you’d better make the most of your surroundings, and that’s exactly what this trendy outpost of a Hamburg-based, design-oriented hotel group does. Shipping crates, old timbers, and stacks of Oriental carpets (a nod to the surrounding warehouses that once stored the bounty of Eastern trade) fill the lounge areas, while bedrooms are cabin style, varying in size from snug to commodious enough for a captain and carrying out the nautical theme with tattoo-emblazoned wallpaper, crate-like furnishings, portholes, and logbooks in which you can follow the story of seafarers. It’s all great fun, creature comforts are not spared, and many rooms have phenomenal harbor views. If all this design gets to be a bit much, head up to the rooftop sauna to chill out while taking in the city below. The in-house bar serves simple meals, including a delicious and generous breakfast, and the desk will turn over the keys of an Austin Mini so you can take a spin around town.
Paul-Dessau-Strasse 2. 040/855070. www.25hours-hotel.com. 89 units. 125€–155€ double. V. Free parking. S-Bahn: Bahrenfeld. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting; bikes; free in-room Wi-Fi.
Fritzhotel Hamburg doesn’t get much more hip than it does in the arty Sternschanze quarter, and here’s a hotel that cooly—as in quietly and tastefully—suits the surroundings. Bright, high-ceilinged guest rooms on a floor of a 19th-century apartment house are done in soothing neutrals with bold splashes of color. Some open to balconies, but the quieter ones face a leafy courtyard off the street. There are few amenities—and no bar or restaurant—but fresh fruit and coffee are on hand and the neighborhood, at the edge of lively St. Pauli, is chockablock with cafes and bars.
Schanzenstrasse 101–103. 040/82222830. Fax 040/822228322. www.fritzhotel.com. 17 units. 90€ double. Free parking. U-Bahn: Sternschanze. Amenities: Free in-room Wi-Fi.
Hamburg is married to the sea, and all sorts of denizens of the deep end up on the table: lobster from Helgoland; shrimp from Büsum; turbot, plaice, and sole from the North Sea; and huge quantities of fresh oysters. It’s no accident many of the Hamburg’s best and most popular restaurants are seafood houses—and they’re reasonably priced, since seafood is not exorbitantly expensive in this port city. But Hamburgers are carnivores, too, hence their eponymous contribution to world cuisine, here known as Stubenküchen (hamburger steak). A traditional sailor’s dish, Labskaus, is made with beer, onions, cured meat, potatoes, herring, and pickles, but brace yourself for at least a taste of the city’s iconic treat, Aalsuppe (eel soup). Whatever your epicurean appetite, you can probably satisfy it in this city that’s long had ties with exotic lands—ethnic restaurants do a brisk business in almost every neighborhood. While dining can be a fine art and a costly pursuit in this expense-account-oriented city, you can also eat well without breaking the bank. No matter how much you spend, in many places your meal will probably be seasoned with an ingredient that Hamburg seems to care a lot about, a generous dash of trendiness.
Bullerei MEAT An old cattle hall in the Schanze meatpacking district, just north of St. Pauli, has been transformed into an industrial-looking dining room geared to some serious meat eating (dried beef hangs in a glass display case and menus are covered in the plastic strips that hang over the doors to meat lockers). Graffiti art, exposed brick walls, and lots of wood furnishings create comfortable surroundings for enjoying pork cheeks, veal knuckles, salty ham, or maybe just some old-fashioned German sausages, even fresh fish—washed down with a selection from the excellent wine list or a wide choice of German beers.
Lagerstrasse 34b. 040/33442110. www.bullerei.com. Main courses 20€–30€. Mon–Sun 11am–11pm. U-Bahn: Sternschanze.
Die Bank NORTHERN GERMAN/CONTINENTAL You’ll feel like a robber baron on the marble-columned trading floor of this former bank. Imaginatively backlit photos of money might get you in the mood to part with some yours for the richly satisfying Banker’s Plate, an embarrassment of crustacean riches, or foie gras and other traditional French indulgences; you can also dine simply on wurst or steak frites, or explore the kitchen’s forays into some adventurous Asian-fusion dishes. The lounge-music-infused space is hopping at all times, with diners crowded onto communal tables and a long, long bar, but stick around after dessert and you’ll see this former temple of commerce turned into a rather riotous dance club.
Hohebleichen 17. 040/2380030. www.diebank-brasserie.de. Reservations required. Main courses 14€–30€. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6:30–10:30pm. U-Bahn: Gasenmarkt.
Fillet of Soul INTERNATIONAL The Deichtorhallen is a turn-of-the-20th-century gem, two adjoining steel-and-glass structures near the harbor that once served as market halls and these days house temporary art and photography exhibitions. Tucked into a wing of the vast spaces is an intimate, minimalist dining room where chefs in an open kitchen do nouvelle takes on German standards that are works of art in themselves, along the lines of pink-roasted breast of goose with saffron-flavored rice and pan-fried zanderfish with bacon-studded Sauerkraut. Coffee, pastries, and light fare are available in the adjoining cafe throughout the day, and any daytime visit should coincide with a walk through the galleries, open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 to 6 (admission is 9€).
In the Deichtorhallen Museum, Deichtorstrasse 2. 040/70705800. www.fillet-of-soul.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch 8.50€–12€, dinner 14€–28€. No credit cards. Cafe and bar Tues–Sun 11am–midnight; restaurant Tues–Sun noon–3pm and 6–10pm. U-Bahn: Steinstrasse.
Restaurant Nil INTERNATIONAL The name is a reference to some innovative spicing in such classics as beef bourguignon, but that’s about as exotic as this classic French bistro gets. A regular clientele (many are in publishing and the arts) can count on the kitchen to serve heartier northern-style dishes in the colder months then dip into the south for inspiration come spring. Any time of year, mirrored walls and lots of brass and plush upholstery will probably transport you to Paris.
Neuer Pferdemarkt 5. 040/4397823. www.restaurant-nil.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 18€–22€; fixed-price menu 41€. No credit cards. Wed–Mon 6pm–midnight. U-Bahn: Feldstrasse.
Fischküche Karin Brahm SEAFOOD An unpretentious, brightly lit fish house near the harbor works hard to satisfy Hamburg’s unquenchable appetite for seafood, serving the freshest catch in many variations. To get a taste of some local favorites, start with smoked eel and move on to cod, served with potatoes and mustard sauce—but there’s plenty else on the large, ever-changing menu. Nothing that comes out of the kitchen is trendy or haute, service is of the no-nonsense school, and there’s nothing stylish, cozy, or otherwise notable about the modern surroundings, but fresh ingredients deftly prepared make this a surefire hit with piscivores.
Kajen 12. 040/365631. www.die-fischkueche.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 15€–40€. Mon–Fri noon–midnight; Sat 4pm–midnight. U-Bahn: Rödingsmarkt.
Eisenstein INTERNATIONAL/PIZZA The crowd of stylish regulars doesn’t let the clamor and clatter deter them from enjoying a fusion of Italian, Mediterranean, and German fare in one of Hamburg’s most appealing dining spaces. A restored factory envelops diners in brick walls, rough-hewn timbers, and daylight streaming through huge windows (and candlelight by night). Southern Europe meets the north in dishes like Atlantic cod flavored with provencal spices and Italian-style thin crust pizza topped with gravalax. An excellent selection of beer and light fare makes this a popular stop on the late-night circuit.
Friedensallee 9. 040/3904606. www.restaurant-eisenstein.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 18€–25€; fixed-price dinners 33€–37€; pizzas 8€–14€. No credit cards. Daily 11am–11pm. U-Bahn: Altona Bahnhof.
Das Weisse Haus GERMAN/SEAFOOD Unlike the Washington landmark with which it shares a name, Hamburg’s famous White House is a cramped old fisherman’s cottage. That doesn’t keep eager diners away, and you’ll have to book well in advance for the privilege of submitting yourself to the whims of the kitchen, which, aside from catering to allergies and strong dislikes, sends out whatever it wants, basing meals on what looked good in the market that day. A Hamburg classic, aalsuppe (eel soup), often makes an appearance, followed by some creative seafood preparations, though the kitchen is just as comfortable with meat and even vegetarian meals.
Neumühlen 50. 04/309016. www.das-weisse-haus.de. Reservations required. 2-course menu 28€; 3-course menu 34€; 4-course menu 42€. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6–9pm. U-Bahn: Altona.
Fischereihafen Restaurant SEAFOOD A harborside perch near the fish market is a fortuitous locale for this long-standing Hamburg favorite, an institution that’s popular with a well-dressed crowd who looks like they’re used to fancier surroundings. What matters here is freshness, and fish and shellfish are right out of the market stalls and show up in some simple but memorable renditions, along the lines of Arctic trout with wild garlic and rare tuna steak with peppercorns and honey-laced soy sauce. A nice view of the Elbe, through large picture windows and from a small terrace in good weather, nicely tops off a memorable meal.
Grosse Elbstrasse 143. 040/381816. www.fischereihafenrestaurant.de. Reservations required. Main courses 18€–46€; fixed-price menu 60€. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm. S-Bahn: Königstrasse.
Landhaus Scherrer NORTHERN GERMAN/CONTINENTAL A converted white-brick, cozy-looking brewery in Altona soothes at first sight, surrounded as it is by lawns shaded by trees. Wood paneled walls and low lighting do nothing to disrupt the mellow mood, the inventive menu combines northern German and international flavors to satisfying effect, and the kitchen throws in an emphasis on locavore ingredients. Crispy whole north German duck with seasoned vegetables is a feast for two, but you can dine solo on roast goose with rhubarb in cassis sauce and other hearty classics. You can eat lightly in the adjoining bistro.
Elbchaussee 130. 040/8801325. www.landhausscherrer.de. Reservations required. Main courses 28€–39€; fixed-price menu 111€. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6:30–10:30pm. Bus: 135.
Hamburg is large and spread out, but geography won’t put a damper on your sightseeing. Most of what you’ll want to see is in or near the central city, and even if a cold wind off the Baltic Sea deters you from walking it’s easy to get around town on the U-bahn or bus.
Unless you have a big appetite for clicking off sights, you may be pleased to know that Hamburg has far fewer landmarks and stellar museums than Berlin or Munich do. You can probably see what you want in a full day. Even if your appreciation of art is on the low side, you’ll want to step into the Kunsthalle, at least to see the weird creations of the German expressionists. The façade of the over-the-the-top neo-Renaissance-style Rathaus is a must-see, and so is Hauptkirche St-Michaelis (below), where you should make the ascent to the dome for a view over the far-flung metropolis at your feet. The city itself is the main attraction. You can’t leave town without catching a glimpse of the Alster, the lake in the city center, and you’ll want to see the port—best viewed from the deck of a tour boat (see below). Two neighborhoods to check out are HafenCity, an emerging waterside quarter where some of the world’s leading architects are in a contest to see who can create the most stunning glass tower, and, of course, St. Pauli. Whether you come to this red-light district dedicated to debauchery to partake or observe, you’ll never think of Germany as uptight and strictly businesslike again.
Hauptkirche St-Michaelis CHURCH You’ll want to soak in the sumptuous Baroque interior, admire the pipe organs (maybe playing if you come for a morning service or evensong), and pay homage at the tombs of esteemed Hamburgers in the huge crypt. But save your energy for the climb up the 449 steps of the twisting, narrow staircase (there’s also an elevator for the less adventurous) for a sweeping view of Hamburg from the top of the copper-roofed tower 
.
Michaeliskirchplatz, Krayenkamp 4C. 040/376780. www.st-michaelis.de. Free admission. Daily 8am–6pm. U-Bahn: Rodginsmarkt or St. Pauli.
Kunsthalle GALLERY A walk through the bright, handsome galleries of one of Germany’s outstanding art museums provides a head-spinning look at Western masterpieces. For many Hamburgers, pride of place in the two buildings belongs to the Bertram altarpiece, painted for the St. Petri Church in 1379. The 24 scenes depict the history of humankind as told in the Bible, from creation to the flight into Egypt. Look for some sardonic touches, like the little fox chewing the neck of the lamb next to it, a sad comment perhaps on the fate of the meek. Continue through the Canalettos, Rembrandts, Holbeins, and other old masters to German Romanticism. Among these works is Caspar David Friedrich’s “The Wall of Mist,” the object of a much publicized heist in which the painitng was stolen from a train and later returned. The new wing by O. M. Ungers houses the Galerie der Gegenwart, Art of the Present, with an impressive collection of canvases by Picasso, Warhol, Beuys, Munch, Kandinsky, Klee, Hockney, and many other leading contemporary artists currently making waves in the art world, among them installation artist Rebecca Horn, photorealist Gerhardt Richter, and conceptualist Jenny Holzer. A large showing of German Expressionism is a credit to the museum’s effort to rebuild a collection of “degenerate” art banned and often destroyed by the Nazis.
Glockengiesser Wall. 040/428131200. www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de. Admission 12€ adults, 6€ children 4–12, free for children 3 and under, 18€ family ticket. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm (Thurs until 9pm). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Rathaus LANDMARK It’s new by German standards—late 19th century—but the neo-Renaissance City Hall with 647 rooms makes quite an impression nonetheless, a sandstone testimony to Hamburg’s wealth and importance. The 49m (161-ft.) clock tower looms high above the Rathausmarkt and the Alster Fleet, the city’s largest canal. Tours through grandiose staterooms embellished with tapestries and glittering chandeliers are given hourly, but this pile is just as satisfyingly admired from the outside—unless you are detail-oriented and might enjoy hearing about the 3,780 pinewood piles upon which the block-long structure rests or the 8,605 souls who perished in the 1897 cholera epidemic and are commemorated by a gurgling fountain. The 16th-century Börse (Stock Exchange), Adolphsplatz 1 ( 040/361-3020), stands back to back with the Rathaus; guides conduct free tours (in German) of the Börse on Tuesday and Thursday at 11am and noon. Should this brush with capitalism inspire you to disperse some of your own wealth, cross the Alster Fleet to the Alsterarkaden, an arched passageway lined with fashionable clothing and jewelry shops.
Rathausplatz. 040/428310. Rathaus tours 3€. Mon–Fri 10am–3pm and Sat–Sun 10am–1pm (no tours during official functions). U-Bahn: Rathausmarkt.
St. Jacobi Kirche CHURCH Medieval altars and sculptures evoke the church’s 14th-century founding, but most of the Gothic exterior is a 1950s reconstruction. Germany’s premier organ manufacturer Arp Schnitger, who made instruments for Johan Sebastian Bach, crafted the massive organ with 4,000 pipes in 1693. To hear its sonorous sounds you may attend Sunday services or, better yet, stop in at noon on Thursdays to enjoy a free concert.
Jakobikirchhof 22, with an entrance on Steinstrasse. 040/3037370. www.jacobus.de. Free admission. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse.
John Lennon once said, “I was born in Liverpool, but I grew up in Hamburg.” As Beatles fans know, the group got its start here in the early 1960s, when they played gigs at a string of sleazy St Pauli clubs. When the group returned to Liverpool in 1960 they were billed as “The Beatles: Direct from Hamburg.” They soon returned to Germany and introduced such hits as “Love Me Do” in St. Pauli clubs. Though a museum to the Fab Four has been shuttered, the city has not lost interest in the sensation it nurtured. A corner on the Reeperbahn has been designated “Beatles-Platz,” where effigies of the five are enshrined in glass (the fifth wheel is bassist Stuart Sutcliffe, who left the group to study art and died of a cerebral aneurism soon afterward). The boys stand in the middle of a circle of paving stones blackened to look like a vinyl record.
St. Petri Kirche CHURCH Hamburg’s favorite church deserves a quick stop just because it’s so venerable, founded in 1192 and in continuous use since. The lion-head knocker on the main door dates from 1342, making it the oldest piece of art in Hamburg, though little else in the church can claim similarly notable provenance or artistic merit. The present structure itself dates from the mid–19th century, when the early church was raised by a fire—a feat World War II bombers attempted to repeat many times but failed to achieve, making St. Peter’s one of old Hamburgers proud survivors. The best time to visit is Wednesday afternoon at 5:15, when the organ pumps out a Stunde der Kirchenmusik (Hour of Church Music).
Speersort 10. 040/3257400. www.sankt-petri.de. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 9am–9pm. U-Bahn: Rathausmarkt.
Hafen (Harbor) NEIGHBORHOOD Ever since the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa issued an edict granting free-trading privileges to Hamburg in 1189, the city has earned fame and riches from its busy harbor, one of the largest in the world. Hamburg commemorates Frederic’s gesture in early May with 3 days of windjammer parades, fireworks, and other celebrations, and these days most of the maritime activity takes place in a vast swath of riverside docks and warehouses just southwest of the city, where the Elbe splits into two arms as it nears the North Sea. The only real way to see the docklands is on a harbor cruise that departs from the city’s main passenger landing stage, St. Pauli-Landungsbrücken. Don’t board the 19th-century clipper ship Rickmer Rickmers and expect to get anywhere; docked just east of the landing at Pier 1, the magnificent vessel is now a museum of maritime history ( 040/319-5959; daily 10am–5:30pm; 3€/$4 for adults, 2.50€/$3.50 for children ages 4–12).
You can also join the cadre of old salts who regularly make the trip out to Willkomm-Höft (Welcome Point) in outlying Wedel, where each day more than 50 arriving and 50 departing ships pass a maritime station that stands on the tip of the peninsula off which crews first catch sight of the cranes and slipways of the Port of Hamburg. From sunrise to sunset (8am–8pm in summer) arriving ships are greeted with the national anthem of the country where the vessel is registered. The station master lowers the Hamburg flag in salute, and the passing ship dips its flag in response. You can get to Wedel by S-Bahn; the point is a 15-minute walk from the stop. While in Wedel, you might want to step into the cellars of Schulauer Fährhaus, a restaurant at Parnastrasse 29 ( 04103/92000; www.schulauer-faehrhaus.de), and pay a visit to the Buddelschiff-Museum ( 04103/920016; www.buddel.de), where more than 200 little vessels are carefully preserved in bottles. The museum is open March to October, daily 10am to 6pm; November to February, hours are Saturday and Sunday only 10am to 6pm. Admission is 3€ for adults and free for children.
HafenCity NEIGHBORHOOD The largest urban inner-city urban renewal project in Europe is dazzling even before it’s completed. More than 400 acres of former docklands along the River Elbe will eventually increase the size of the inner city by almost half and double the amount of housing in Hamburg. While it’s estimated that it will be 2020 before finishing touches are put on the streets, plazas, and riverside promenades, some stunning glass towers are already transforming the skyline. Check out the shiplike Unilever building at Strandkai 1, and the Elbphilharmonie, the new philharmonic hall slated to debut, after many delays, in 2015—even unfinished it’s a stunning addition to the cityscape, an undulating wedge of frosted glass that seems to rise from the water like the prow of a ghost ship. You can find out more at the HafenCity InfoCenter, Sandtorkai 30 ( 040/3690-1799; www.hafencity.de), open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 6pm (May–Sept until 8pm). To reach the InfoCenter, take the U3 U-Bahn line to Baumwall, Bus 3, or Bus 6.
International Maritime Museum MUSEUM In a tribute to Hamburg’s longstanding relationship with the sea, ten floors of a formidable old red-brick neo-Gothic warehouse near the waterfront in HafenCity are stacked chockablock with all things nautical. The vast spaces are literally crammed with memorabilia, and eclectic holdings run the nautical gamut from a 3,000-year-old dugout unearthed on the banks of the Elbe to 47 letters of Lord Horatio Nelson, hero of the Battle of Trafalgar, to photographs and drawings of ships to uniforms and navigation equipment. If the 15,000 menus from ocean liners seem overwhelming, wait until you get to the top floor and come across the 26,000 model ships, stacked tightly side by side in row after row of glass cases as if they were moored in the world’s most impossibly crowded harbor. (If this quirkily exhaustive collection whets your appetite to stock up on some maritime memorabilia, make your way across town to St. Pauli, where the Captain’s Cabin, Bei Dim St. Pauli Landungsbrücken 3 [ 040/316373; www.captains-cabin.de; S-Bahn: Landungsbrücken], sells ship models, telescopes, barometers, figureheads, lamps, nautical clothing for the whole family, prints, posters, and more.)
Koreastrasse 1. 040 3009 3300. www.internationales-maritimes-museum.de. Admission 13€, 15€ small family (1 adult and 2 children), 25€ large family (2 adults and 3 children). Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Überseequartier.
Miniatur Wunderland MUSEUM Wunderland bills itself as the world’s largest model railway, but it’s a lot more than Lilliputian trains chugging through snowy Alpine peaks—even though there are plenty of such charming scenarios, with 900 trains and a total of 12,000 cars traveling through landscapes from Scandinavian forests to American deserts. Planes descend from the sky and make a smooth landing at Hamburg airport, trucks roar down highways, and fire trucks and police cars race through city streets. Even the miniaturized human activity is fascinating to witness: Body builders lift weights, prostitutes stand alluringly in windows, and pop-concertgoers light up cigarettes, making Wunderland one of the few public places in Hamburg where smoking is tolerated.
Kehrwieder 2. www.miniatur-wunderland.de. Admission 12€ adults, 6€ children. Sun 8:30am–6pm; Mon and Wed–Fri 9:30am–9pm; Tues 9:30am–9pm; Sat 8am–9pm. U-Bahn: Baumwell.
Hamburg’s official line is that the Reeperbahn is the city’s second-greatest attraction and asset (after the port). The well-regulated approach to prostitution and sex solicitation is similar to Amsterdam’s, even though the Reeperbahn is a lot more seedy-looking than Amsterdam’s red-light district. In Hamburg every officially sanctioned working girl must submit to a medical examination every 2 weeks—and pay income tax on her profits. The district’s police station, Davidwache, at the corner of the Davidstrasse and the Reeperbahn, provides highly visible and omnipresent police protection. No amount of police presence is going to protect you from paying exorbitant prices for watered-down cocktails or astronomical cover charges, and a little common sense will help you enjoy a walk on the wild side without losing your shirt.
Reeperbahn NEIGHBORHOOD The St. Pauli district (U-Bahn: St. Pauli; S-Bahn: Reeperbahn), just west of the center, is where it all hangs out in Hamburg. St. Pauli’s midsection—the “genital zone,” as it’s sometimes called—is the district’s main drag, the Reeperbahn, a 1km (½-mile) thoroughfare whose name literally translates as “rope street,” referring to the massive amounts of hempen rope produced here during the 18th and 19th centuries for ships in Germany’s biggest harbor. Hamburg’s first theater opened on the Reeperbahn in 1842, and from there it was all downhill into any manner of licentiousness. By the 1860s, the question, “Whatcha doing, sailor?” became the unofficial motto of an army of prostitutes who set up shop (with the legal sanction of municipal authorities) in the district. These days, by mid-evening the bars and theaters (legitimate and otherwise) are roaring away and you’ll find thousands of women and men in drag, strutting their stuff along the turf. German enterprise has honored these women (and their reputation for a good time) by naming one of Hamburg’s native beers in their honor—the famous “St. Pauli Girl.”
The most exclusive and expensive area is Herbertstrasse, where women display their charms to window-shoppers from behind plate-glass. By city ordinance, this street is open only to men 19 and over (women are officially banned, but this does not seem to be enforced). Less expensive rents can be found on the streets near Herbertstrasse: Gunterstrasse, Erichstrasse, Friedrichstrasse, Davidstrasse, and Gerhardstrasse. If it’s erotic theater you’re looking for, you’ll have to move a few blocks away to Grosse Freiheit, a street whose name appropriately translates as “Great Freedom.” Any act of sexual expression, with every conceivable permutation, except those that involve animals (bestiality is one of the few things expressly forbidden), is shown in these theaters. Be it joyful, be it disgusting, it’s all here, often performed by artists who can barely conceal their boredom.
The Alster LAKE Top spot for a jog or power walk is the pedestrian walkway around this lake in the city center. It’s about 7km (4 miles) all the way around, but you can do a shorter circuit around the smaller, inner lake, the Binnenalster, in about 1½ km (1 mile). On a nice day you can take to the waters of the outer lake, the Aussenalster. H. Pieper ( 040/247578; www.segelschule-pieper.de), a boathouse just off Kennedybrucke in front of the Atlantic Kempinski Hotel, rents rowboats, paddle boats, and one-occupant sailing dinghies; prices begin at 15€ per hour. This outfitter is open April to late September, daily 10am to 8pm.
Carl Hagenbeck’s Tierpark ZOO/AQUARIUM It’s easy to forget that Hamburg’s zoo, 5km (3 miles) southwest of the city center, is home to some 2,500 animals, so appealing are the landscaping and architectural attractions. The Nepalese temple and Japanese garden are especially transporting, as are the animal enclosures themselves—the Tierpark was the first zoo in the world to recreate environments similar to the creatures’ habitats in the wild, separated from onlookers by pools and moats. These have been shored up a bit since 1956, when in one of the biggest “zoo breaks” in history 45 rhesus monkeys escaped from their quarters and ran wild through the streets of Hamburg.
Hagenbeckallee at Steilingen. 040/5300330. www.hagenbeck.de. Admission 16€ adults, 11€ children 4–16, free for children 3 and under, 49€ family ticket. Parking 2.50€. Mar–Oct daily 9am–5pm (closes later in nice weather); Nov–Feb daily 9am–4:30pm. U-Bahn: Hagenbeck’s Tierpark.
Wallringpark PARK/GARDEN While Hamburg has no shortage of greenery, the most beautiful stretches are these four adjacent, meticulously maintained parks and gardens west of the Altstadt and Alster Lake. Planten und Blomen (Plants and Flowers), laid out in 1936, contains the largest Japanese garden in Europe, with rock gardens, flowering plants, miniature trees, and winding pathways. The Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden) south of Planten and Blomen nurtures rare plant specimens in greenhouses bursting with tropical flora. The Kleine (small) and Grosse (large) Wallanlagen parks are geared to recreation, with a roller-skating rink, playgrounds, and an ice-skating rink in winter. You can chug through the quartet on a miniature railway and cap off a summertime visit with an evening concert in in the Planten und Bloomen, where colorfully illuminated fountains keep time to classical and pop music; daily from June to August at 10.
Hamburg is famous and infamous for nightlife. You can go high-brow, as the city has excellent opera and dance companies and symphonies; middle brow in chic bars and homey rathskellers; or lowbrow on and around the Reeperbahn, in Hamburg’s notoriously sex-oriented St. Pauli district. Hamburg’s gay scene is almost as robust as that in Berlin, and centers in St Georg, just to the east of the Haupthbanhoff, where most of the district’s gay venues are along and around two main streets, Lange Reihe and Steindamm. Visitor information centers in the Wandelhalle of the Hauptbahnhof ( 040/30051300) and on the St. Pauli-Landungsbrücken are usually littered with fliers announcing goings-on around town and counters sell tickets to mainstream events. The Ticketmaster affiliate in Hamburg is Kartenhaus at Schanzenstrasse 5 ( 040 43 59 46; www.kartenhaus.de; Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–2pm).
Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera) THE PERFORMING ARTS One of the world’s leading opera houses, built after World War II, its known for excellent acoustics and advanced technical facilities. It’s home to the Hamburg State Opera and the Hamburg Ballet. Grosstheaterstrasse 25. 040/356868. www.hamburgische-staatsoper.de. Tickets 10€–146€. U-Bahn: Stephansplatz. S-Bahn: Dammtor.
Musikhalle THE PERFORMING ARTS This survivor of Germany’s romantic age, painstakingly restored after World War II, hosts concerts by the Hamburg Symphony, the Hamburg Philharmonic, the NDR Symphony, and the Monteverdi-Chor, known for its interpretations of baroque and Renaissance music. Touring orchestras also perform here. For tickets, call either the number listed below or the number listed for the Staatsoper (see above). Johannes-Brahms-Platz 1. 040/357666. www.laeiszhalle.de. Tickets up to 45€. U-Bahn: Stephansplatz. S-Bahn: Dammtor.
THEATER The English Theatre of Hamburg, Lerchenfeld 14 ( 040/2277089; www.englishtheatre.de; U-Bahn: Mundsburg), is the only English-speaking theater in the northern Germany and actors present popular plays and the classics.
The Deutsches Schauspielhaus , Kirchenallee 39 ( 040/248713; www.schauspielhaus.de; U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), is one of the largest and most important theaters in the German-speaking world, performing both classics and modern plays—but you’ll need to understand German to appreciate fully the genius of these productions.
Café Gnosa COFFEE HOUSE Laid-back and art deco-inspired, this gay-freindly bar and restaurant is a popular place to sip coffee or wine and enjoy breakfast and a nice selection of salads and more substantial meals throughout the day. The real reason to come is to mingle with the locals, many of whom have been hanging out here for years. It’s open until 1am. Lange Reihe 93. 040/243034. www.gnosa.de. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Club Grosse Freiheit 36/Kaiserkeller CLUB & MUSIC SCENE The Beatles performed here in the basement Kaiserkeller in their earliest days, and Prince and Willie Nelson have been on the bill at the larger club upstairs. Today the venue is best known as a cultural landmark, though some of the pop and rock concerts pull in big crowds. Grosse Freiheit 36. 040/31777811. www.grossefreiheit36.de. Cover 4€–20€. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn.
Cotton Club CLUB & MUSIC SCENE Hamburg’s oldest jazz club hosts jazz and Dixieland bands from throughout Europe and the United States. Hours are Monday to Saturday 8pm to 1am. Alter Steinweg 10. 040/343878. www.cotton-club.de. Cover 6.50€–15€. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke.
Fabrik CLUB & MUSIC SCENE An old ammunition depot turned factory hosts musician of every stripe and an eclectic schedule offers something different almost every night and features club music, classical, African bands, jazz, and blues, along with film and stage events. Barnerstrasse 36 (5 min. from Bahnhof Altona). 040/391070. www.fabrik.de. Cover 10€–35€. U-Bahn: Altona.
Le Lion BAR So intimate you might not get in—try though, by ringing the buzzer hidden inside the lion’s head on the door. Better yet, make a reservation to enjoy serious cocktails in a grown-up, subtly lit room. Rauthaustrasse 3. 040/334753780. www.lelion.net. S-Bahn: Rathaus.
Meanie Bar DANCE CLUB One of the few places along the Reeperbahn that caters to locals attracts a lot of artists and musicians. Spielbudenplatz 5. 040/4301110. www.molotowclub.com. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn.
Molotow DANCE CLUB This much-beloved venue in the cellar of the Meanie Bar is the place to dance to funk and alternative. Opening hours may vary, but usually it opens Wednesday and Sunday at 8pm, Thursday to Saturday at 11pm; closing time is usually when the crowd feels like dispersing. Spielbudenplatz 5. 040/4301110. www.molotowclub.com. Cover 5€–16€. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn.
You can enjoy the spectacle of Hamburg’s port while keeping warm and dry and slacking your thirst at 20Up, on the 20th floor of the Empire Riverside Hotel, Bernhard-Nocht-Strasse 97 (
40/311190; www.empire-riverside.de). A similarly dramatic view is to be had from the 14th-floor Tower Bar of the Hafen Hotel, Seewartenstrasse 9 ( 040/311130; www.hotel-hafen-hamburg.de). The perspective of the maritime activity and sprawling city is eye-catching by day, and downright dazzling at night.
Tom’s Saloon BAR Hamburg’s landmark gay bar, named for gay icon Tom of Finland (once a regular) has a street-level dance club, a friendly cocktail lounge, and a cellar bar where leather is derigeur. Men of all ages mix here, and women won’t feel comfortable anywhere but the crowded dance floor, and even there aren’t a terribly welcome presence. At least one part of this place is open every night 10pm until dawn; every Wednesday to Sunday, additional sections open for greater space. The 5€ cover includes one drink. Pulverteich 17. 040/25328943. www.toms-hamburg.de. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Spielbank Hamburg GAMBLING Hamburg’s low-key casino occupies attractive but fairly unremarkable surroundings and offers roulette, blackjack, and poker. You can also enjoy a drink at the bar, taking in the panoramic view over the roofs and lakes of Hamburg. The minimum stake for roulette is 2€, for blackjack 5€. Men should wear jackets and ties. Everyone needs a passport to get in (you must be 18 or over to enter and gamble). The casino is open daily 3pm to 3am. Stephansplatz 10. 040/4501760. www.spielbank-hamburg.de. U-Bahn: Stephansplatz.
Guided tours are a good way to see spread-out Hamburg, and plenty of operators are on hand to show you around. To get a sense of the lay of the land and see the far-flung landmarks and neighborhoods, hop on one of the Top Tour double-decker buses operated by Hamburger Stadtrundfahrten ( 040/641-3731; www.top-tour-hamburg.de) that leave from the main train station, Kirchenallee entrance, every 30 minutes from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (hourly in winter). The 90-minute tours cost 18€ for adults, 15€ for children up to 14.
For a look at Hamburg’s port, a fascinating hubbub of maritime activity, climb aboard one of the pleasure craft operated by HADAG Seetouristik und Fährdienst AG, Bei den St. Pauli, Fischmarkt 28 ( 040/3117070; www.hadag.de). The 75-minute tours, in German and English, depart the Landungsbrücken, Pier 3, in St. Pauli at hourly intervals every day April to September 10:30am to 4:30pm, and from October to March 11am to 3:30pm. The fare is 17€ for adults, 8€ for children 13 and under, and 25€ for a family ticket.
Relaxing, but a lot less colorful, are tours of the Inner and Outer Alster operated by ATG-Alster-Touristik, Am Anleger Jungfernstieg ( 040/3574240; www.alstertouristik.de). In good weather departures are daily about every 30 minutes from 10am to 6pm, with trips lasting 50 minutes—just about the right amount of time to get your fill of pleasant vistas of the tree-lined shores, church spires, and sailing boats. November to March, tours depart daily at 10:30am, noon, 1:30, and 3pm. Boats leave from the Jungfernstieg quayside (U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg). Trips cost 15€ for adults and 7€ for children 15 and under.
Along the ancient streets of Lübeck’s Altstadt you’ll find more buildings from the 13th to the 15th centuries than in any other city in northern Germany—more than just about anywhere else in Germany or in Europe, for that matter, since it’s said that within an area of 5 sq. km (2 sq. miles) around the Marktplatz stand 1,000 medieval houses. The overall effect of all these high-gabled houses, massive gates, strong towers, and towering steeples is outrageously picturesque, providing a dip into the past when Lübeck was one of the founding cities of the mighty Hanseatic League, a confederation that controlled trade along the Baltic as far as Russia.
The Hanseatic merchants decorated their churches with art treasures and gilded their spires to show off their wealth. Much of this remains, earning the city a place on the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage list of international monuments. You’ll want to work a day trip to Lübeck into your Hamburg itinerary, but the city is so captivatingly picturesque, with quite a bit to see and do, that you might want to spend the night.
BY TRAIN The Lübeck Hauptbahnhof lies on major rail lines linking Denmark and Hamburg, and on the Hamburg-Lüneburg-Lübeck-Kiel-Flensburg and Lübeck-Rostock-Stralsund lines, with frequent connections. From Hamburg, 32 trains arrive daily (trip time: 48 min.), 23 from Berlin (trip time: 3–4 hr.). For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.com).
BY BUS Long-distance bus service to and from such cities as Berlin and Kiel is provided by Autokraft GmbH ( 0431/6660; www.autokraft.de).
BY CAR Access to Lübeck is via the A1 Autobahn north and south.
The Altstadt and most of the city’s attractions can be reached on foot from the Hauptbanhof, about a 15-minute walk from the Marktplatz. You can also take bus no. 1, 5, 11, or 21. Fare is 2.20€.
For tourist information, contact the Lübeck-Informations-Zentrum, just next to the entrance to the medieval city, Holstentor (Holsten Gate), at Holstentorplatz 1–5 ( 0451/8899700; www.luebeck-tourismus.de), January to May and October to December Monday to Friday 9:30am to 6pm and Saturday 10am to 3pm; June to September Monday to Friday 9:30am to 7pm, Saturday 10am to 3pm, and Sunday 10am to 2pm. Admission to each of Lübeck’s museums is 6€ for adults and 3€ for children and students. Tip: If you’re going to visit two museums, you’ll save 50 percent off your admission to the second one by showing your receipt from the first.
SPECIAL EVENTS Lübeck is the center of the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival ( 0451/389570; www.shmf.de), with performances during July and August every year. At the Christmas market, vendors from northwestern Germany sell their wares—many of them handmade items from toys to pottery—during the 3 weeks before Christmas on the Rathausplatz.
Lübeck spreads well beyond the banks of the Trave River, connecting canals that once formed the perimeter of the old city. You’ll find some chains in these outlying areas, but the atmospheric Altstadt is the place to stay, and a hotel here puts you within walking distance of all the sights you want to see. Any of the Altstadt hotels are also within walking distance of the train station.
Hotel an der Marienkirche Everything is sparse and uncluttered in this old house across from Marienkirche, where rooms are done in crisp Scandinvian style and neutral tones with nice bursts of color and contemporary art here and there. All of the rooms are furnished to be allergy free, and some have dust-preventing cork flooring; on the aesthetic side, from some of those in front of the house you’ll be staring right into the brick towers of Marienkirche. A healthful and substantial breakfast is served in the sunny breakfast room, opening to a small terrace.
Schüsselbuden 4. 0451/799410. www.hotel-an-der-marienkirche.de. 18 units. 75€–95€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Parking 7€ nearby. Bus: 1, 3, or 11. Amenities: Free in-room Wi-Fi.
Hotel Anno 1216 The name dates the premises, one of the oldest brick houses in Lübeck and so beautifully restored that staying in this former guildhall and residence seems like a real privilege. The spacious quarters keep the historic surroundings intact, and sleek, contemporary furnishings offset heavy timbers, stuccoed ceilings, frescoes, and other treasures. The handsome singles and doubles are commodious and attractive, while three suites installed in former salons are as impressive as the surroundings were meant to be. An excellent breakfast (extra) tops off a stay in these distinctive lodgings, and amenities include free phone calls within Europe and to the United States.
Alfstrasse 38. 0451/4008210. www.hotelanno1216.de. 11 units. 138€ double suites 198€–228€. Parking 7€ nearby. Bus: 1 or 3. Amenities: Free in-room Wi-Fi.
Ringhotel Jensen A gabled 15th-century patrician townhouse on the banks of the Taber provides atmospheric lodging near the heart of town. The somewhat plain accommodations aren’t as historically authentic as the gabled exterior, but they are pleasantly comfortable, many face the Holstenstor gate, and a generous buffet breakfast is served in a sunny room overlooking the river.
An der Obertrave 4–5. 0451/702490. www.ringhotel-jensen.de. 42 units. 93€–115€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Parking 7€ nearby. Bus: 1, 3, or 11. Near the Holstentor. Amenities: Restaurant; room service; free in-room Wi-Fi.
Brauberger NORTHERN GERMAN Drink from the source at this in-town brewery that has been making pale ale since 1225. You’ll have to make your way around the huge copper brewing kettles as you look for a seat at one of the communal tables in the cavernous, multilevel space, where customers put down their steins long enough to discover some excellent food of the schnitzel and sausage variety. Service, despite a nightly crush, is friendly and fast.
Alfstrasse 36. 0451/71444. www.brauberger.de. Main courses 7€–14€. Daily 5pm–midnight. Bus: 1 or 3.
Haus der Schiffergesellschaft NORTHERN GERMAN It’s hard not to fall under the magical spell of this former sailor’s haunt from 1535, where ship models, lanterns, and other nautical memorabilia hang from paneled walls and ceilings above scrubbed-oak plank tables and high-backed wooden booths carved with the coats of arms of Baltic merchants. You can share a table in the main dining hall to enjoy baked black pudding with slices of apple and lamb’s lettuce (and other local favorites), or take a seat at the long bar. Wherever you sit, take a look at what might be the most enchainting artifacts of all, revolving lamps painted with scenes in which ships sail across the seas. Reservations recommended.
Breitestrasse 2. 0451/76776. www.schiffergesellschaft.com. Main courses 12€–20€. Daily 10am–midnight. Bar Tues–Sat 5pm–4am. Bus: 1 or 2.
Zimmermann’s Lübecker Hanse SEAFOOD/GERMAN Ask Lübeckers where to eat, and they’ll probably steer you this time-honored favorite, where warmly lit, dark-paneled rooms are an especially welcome and atmospheric refuge on a chilly evening. Fresh Baltic fish and seafood are the menu standouts (and hearty fish soup is a meal in itself), though chef Patrick Marquand also prepares a lot of beef and game, including an aromatic roast duck and a delicious currywurst made from deer. Desserts couple Lübeck’s love of chocolate and the kitchen’s skill with pastry. Be sure to get a reservation.
Kolk 3–7. 0451/78054. www.luebecker-hanse.com. Main courses 14€–23€. Tues–Sat noon–3pm and 6pm–midnight. Closed Jan 1–14. Bus: 1, 3, or 11.
Your sightseeing will be concentrated in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt, surrounded by the Trave River and its canals to lend an island-like appearance and atmosphere. Walking from the Hauptbanhof, you’ll cross into the Altstadt on the Puppenbrücke (Puppets Bridge), a stone span that got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its railings.
The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures, creating a remarkably pleasing uniformity throughout the old town. You’ll notice that some of the medieval redbrick buildings are decorated with black glazed bricks. The black glaze comes from salt that was sprinkled onto the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder—salt was considered to be “white gold.”
Buddenbrookhaus MUSEUM Readers well versed in the works of author Thomas Mann (and everyone should be) might recognize this commodious, stone house with a gabled roof, recessed doorway, and leaded-glass fan over heavy double doors. This is the house Mann (1875–1955) described as the family home in “Buddenbrooks.” Mann’s grandparents lived here, and the novelist spent much of his childhood in the large, gracious rooms, a few of which have been reconstructed. Most galleries in the rebuilt and modernized interior displays photographs, letters, and documents chronicling Mann’s life, and that of his family, including their flight from Nazi Germany in 1933. Thomas’s brother, Heinrich Mann (1871–1950), also a novelist and author of “Professor Unrat,” the inspiration for the movie “The Blue Angel,” is also well memorialized. Displays are in German with English translations in small type; more accessible are video recordings of Mann and other family members, including the author’s speech in Hollywood denunciating McCarthyism and his son Klaus’s recollection of returning to bomb-shattered Munich after the war.
Mengstrasse 4. 0451/1224192. www.buddenbrookhaus.de. Admission 6€ adults, 3€ students, free for children 13 and under, 10€ for a family ticket. Daily 10am–5pm. Bus 1 or 3.
Glandorps-Gang (Hospital of the Holy Spirit) LANDMARK One of the oldest social-welfare institutions in Europe occupies one of the most important monumental buildings of the Middle Ages, with a belfry and four turreted spires. Philanthropic local citizens founded the hospital in 1230. In the early 19th century, when the building was converted to a shelter for elderly men and women, 130 tiny wooden cabins without ceilings were built within its enormous main hall. The cabins remain intact, and you can poke your head inside them.
2 Grosse Gröpelgrube 2. Free admission. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.
Günter Grass-Haus MUSEUM One of Germany’s most-esteemed postwar authors was born in Danzing, now Gansk, Poland, in 1927 and has lived outside Lübeck for many years. Grass is best known for “The Tin Drum,” published in 1959. Anyone who’s read the novel or seen the film can’t help but to think of the eels-in-the-horsehead scene when traveling along the broad, marshy shores of the Baltic Sea around Hamburg and Lübeck. Grass unleashed a torrent of criticism in 2006 when he revealed, in advance of the publication of his autobiography, that he had served in the Nazi Waffen SS at age 17; some critics suggested the Nobel Prize committee should revoke Grass’s prize. Grass is also a sculptor, watercolorist, printmaker, and charcoal artist, and renderings of eels and fish fill these rooms in an old printing plant, alongside many of his original manuscripts and the machines, from an Olivetti manual typewriter to computers, on which he wrote them. Some of his elegant bronzes grace the courtyard. Next door, at no. 25, step through the baroque portal of the Füchtingshof, an almshouse built in the 17th century for the widows of seamen and merchants (open 9am–noon and 3–6pm); you’ll enter a tranquil courtyard with houses still occupied by widows. Down the street are two more former almshouses, testimony to how well Renaissance Lübeck treated its citizens: the Glandorps-Gang, at no. 41, and the Glandorps-Hof, at nos. 49 and 51.
Glockengiesserstrasse 21. 0451/1224190. www,grass-haus.de. Admission 6€ adults, 3€ students, 2.50€ children 13 and under. Apr–Dec daily 10am–6pm; Jan–Mar daily 11am–5pm.
Lübeck is the world capital of Marzipan, a sweet almond paste. According to legend, Lübeckers ran out of flour during a long siege and started grinding almonds to make bread. They were so pleased with the sweet results that they’ve been making Marzipan ever since. To sample Lübeck’s famous product, stop in at Cafe Niederegger, Breitestrasse 98 ( 0451/53010), located right across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806. On the ground floor, you can purchase bars and boxes of Marzipan to take away (an excellent gift idea), or you can go upstairs to the pleasant cafe for dessert and coffee; they also have seating across the street in the arcades behind the Rathaus facing Marktplatz. Niederegger’s is open daily from 9am to 6pm.
Holstentor (Holsten Gate) LANDMARK The first monument you encounter when you emerge from the train station was for centuries the main entrance to town, looming over a bridge leading into the Altstadt. The twin cylindrical towers rising above a steeped gable are mightily impressive, which is the point—built in the 15th century, the gate was meant to announce Lübeck’s power and prestige rather than defend the city. An inscribed motto brings home the city’s traditionally noncombattive nature and reads, “Harmony at home and peace abroad.” Within the tower is the Museum Holstentor, worth a quick stop to see a made-to-scale replica of mid-17th-century ü, along with some beautifully made scale models of Hanseatic Kogge (cogs, or single-sail vessels). Just to the south are the Salzspeicher (Salt Lofts), a group of six gabled Renaissance buildings; the oldest dates from 1579, the newest from 1745. Merchants stored salt (considered “white gold”) from nearby Lüneburg in these buildings before shipping it to Scandinavia, where it was used to preserve fish. Each of the six buildings is different, reflecting trends in Renaissance gabled architecture.
Holstentorplatz. 0451/1224129. www.die-luebecker-museen.de. Admission 5€ adults, 2€ children under 16. Tues–Fri 10am–4pm; Sat–Sun 11am–5pm. Bus: 1, 3, or 11.
Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church) CHURCH Soaring flying buttresses and towering windows seem to dwarf the rest of the rest of Lübeck, all the more so since this remarkable assemblage rises on the highest point in the Altstadt. One of Germany’s most remarkable and picturesque churches was an easy mark for World War II bombers, who leveled the bell towers in 1942, inadvertently creating a conversation piece—the shattered bells remain embedded in the church floor, a testament to the horror and ludicrousness of war. You may contemplate this as you sit in the soaring nave, with the world’s tallest brick vaulting, enjoying one of the summertime organ concerts, a tradition established by esteemed 18th-century master organist Dietrich Buxtehude. Just outside the entrance a rather cherubic devil with shiny horns polished by the touch of many hands sits atop a block of stone. Legend has it that the workers building the cathedral told the devil they were constructing a winestub, and the devil gladly joined in the construction, knowing the establishment would help bring many souls over to the dark side. When Satan realized he had been duped he attempted to smash the walls with the stone, but workers appeased him by pointing out that the rathskeller in the adjoining Rathaus would send him many clients.
Schusselbuden 13. 0451/397700. www.st-marien-luebeck.de. Free admission. Daily 10am–6pm (closed when services are being conducted). Bus 1 or 3.
Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus GALLERY Two patrician houses portray prosperous Lübeck life in a suites of rooms furnished and decorated in the styles of different periods, from lavish Rococo to restrained neoclassical. On the walls of adjoining galleries is an outstanding collection of 19th- and 20th-century paintings; those by Edward Munch, who lived and worked in Lübeck, get the spotlight, though many of the German Romantic and Impressionist works are outstanding; look for the colorful painting of Lübeck’s St. Jacobkirch by Austrian artist Oskar Kokoshka (1886–1980) who also lived and worked in Lübeck briefly. “Self Portrait with Family” (1820), by Lübeck native Johan Friedrich Overbeck eerily evokes a Renaissance painting of the Holy Family; it’s one of several works by like-minded artists who left Germany to lead a life of virtue and nobility in Rome, taking their artistic inspiration from the Renaissance masters.
Königstrasse 9–11. 0451/1224148. www.museum-behnhaus-draegerhaus.de. Admission 6€ adults, 3€ students and children 6 to 18, 2€ for children 5 and under. Apr–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun 11am–5pm.
Rathaus HISTORIC BUILDING Aracades, towers, gables, redbrick walls embellished with black glazing and coats of arms,—everything about this 13th-century landmark conspires to present a fairytale appearance. Tours in English and other languages show off some rather somber and pompous staterooms that are not nearly as appealing as the architectural flourishes on the exterior.
Rathausplatz. 0451/1221005. Tickets 3€ for adults and 1.50€ for children. Tours Mon–Fri at 11am, noon, and 3pm.
St.-Annen-Museum MUSEUM/RELIGIOUS SITE A 16th-century convent originally housed nuns, who came here (and to other medieval convents) not necessarily with a religious calling but out of practicality—the surroundings provided a home to unmarried women whose families could not afford dowries to marry off their daughters. They enjoyed a fair amount of freedom in these common rooms, cloisters, and refrectories that later served simultaneously as a prison and almshouse. They now house religious art, including several altar pieces and, quite appropriately, five sculptures of the wise virgins of biblical parable who had the foresight to be prepared when some fellows arrived looking for wives and hence got their men—a medieval warning to be prepared for the Day of Judgement.
St-Annen Strasse 15. 451/1224137. Admission 6€ for adults, 3€ for students and children 6–18. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm (Jan–Mar 11am–5pm).
