FRANKFURT, COLOGNE & THE RHINELAND
For about 2 centuries now, the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world, who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles, medieval towns, and vineyard-covered slopes. The Rhineland, the area along the river’s west bank, is a treasure-trove for tourists, with Cologne, the Rhineland’s largest and most important city, sitting right on the river. Possessing the largest cathedral in Germany and filled with a fascinating assortment of museums and cultural venues, Cologne makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland. There are many day trip options from Cologne, including Aachen, one of Germany’s oldest cities, the Mosel Valley, covered with meticulously tended vineyards, and river trips on the Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine), the river’s most scenic stretch, where you can glide by castle-crowned summits, stop at riverside wine towns, and finally see that rock—the Loreley—that you’ve heard so much about.
But this chapter begins not on the Rhine but on one of its tributaries, the Main, and in another city, Frankfurt, because Frankfurt-am-Main is where so many journeys to Germany begin and end. Frankly, Frankfurt is not as appealing as Cologne, which lies 117 miles northwest and is less than an hour away by train. Frankfurt, with its high-rise towers and emphasis on business and banking, lacks Cologne’s human scale, historic charm, and fun-loving heart. But it has several renowned museums, is a shopping mecca, and a transportation hub for all of Germany. Like Cologne, Frankfurt offers a host of nearby and easily accessible day trips, including the historic town of Mainz, the spa town of Wiesbaden, and the beautiful Rheingau wine district.
Sometimes called “Mainhattan” because of its skyscraper-studded skyline, Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city. Many travelers get their first introduction to Germany in this city because the Frankfurt airport serves as the country’s main international hub. And that’s a shame, because although there are cultural and financial riches here, the city itself is not particularly memorable.
As with just about every city in Germany, you have to figure World War II into the equation of modern-day Frankfurt-am-Main. After major destruction in World War II, Frankfurt was rebuilt in a way that salvaged a small portion of its once-extensive Altstadt (Old Town), but otherwise turned, in architectural terms, to the future instead of the past. Visitors looking for a romantic or atmospheric piece of Old Germany will not find it in this fast-paced and cosmopolitan metropolis. Instead, Frankfurt is a city representative of modern, business-oriented Germany. It has been a major banking city since the Rothschilds opened their first bank here more than 200 years ago and has long been the financial center not only of Germany but also of the entire European Union, home of the Bundesbank, Germany’s central bank, and the Central Bank of the EU. More banks maintain headquarters here than anywhere else in German city, a fact that helps account for all those designer skyscrapers (including the Commerzbank Tower, the tallest building in western Europe) with their somewhat bland and anonymous corporate facades. The huge € sign that stands on Willy-Brandt-Platz in front of the opera house can be regarded as the city’s logo.
Visitors will find several excellent museums in Frankfurt, but if your time in Germany is limited, you may want to hop on a fast train right below the airport and head to Cologne instead.
BY PLANE Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (
069/6901; www.frankfurt-airport.de) lies 11km (7 miles) from the city center. Europe’s busiest airport and Germany’s major international gateway, this airport serves more than 110 countries worldwide, with direct flights from many U.S. and Canadian cities. The airport has a full array of stores, restaurants, banks, a bus terminal, several car-rental offices, and two railway stations.
The long-distance DB Rail Terminal, conveniently located below the airport, links the airport to cities throughout Germany and neighboring countries. Regional and local trains operate from the Regional Station directly below Terminal 1. What this means is that you can fly into Frankfurt, hop on a train right at the airport, and be on your way to any destination in Germany.
The simplest method for getting into the city from the airport is by S-Bahn (light rail). S8 and S9 trains (direction Offenbach or Hanau) take you directly to Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) in about 10 minutes. A one-way ticket costs 4.50€. Tickets are available from the RMV ticket machines.
Buses into the city stop in front of Terminal 1 on the arrivals level and in front of Terminal 2 on Level 2. Some airlines offer special shuttle-bus services to Frankfurt from the airport; check when you purchase your ticket.
A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 25€ and takes about 20 minutes. Taxis are available in front of the terminals.
BY TRAIN Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is the busiest train station in Europe, with connections to all major German and European cities. Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof, opposite the main entrance ( 069/2123-8800), is open Monday to Friday from 8am to 9pm, and Saturday and Sunday until 6pm. For train travel information, contact Deutsche Bahn ( 11861; www.bahn.com).
BY CAR The A3 and A5 autobahns intersect near Frankfurt’s airport. The A3 comes in from the Netherlands, Cologne, and Bonn and continues east and south to Munich. The A5 comes from the northeast and continues south to Heidelberg and Basel, Switzerland. From the west, A60 connects with A66, which leads to Frankfurt.
The River Main divides Frankfurt. Most of the historic sights and several museums are found in the Altstadt on the north bank. Concentrated in the city center around the Altstadt are hotels, restaurants, and nightlife. The Altstadt contains an even older section referred to as the Innenstadt, or Inner City. The Hauptbahnhof is located at the western edge of the city center. As you walk out of the station, Baselerstrasse is on your right and heads south toward the River Main. You have a choice of streets heading east to the Altstadt: Münchner Strasse leads directly into Theaterplatz, with its opera house; Taunusstrasse goes to three of the major Altstadt squares in the southern part of the city—Goetheplatz, Rathenauplatz, and the Hauptwache.
The exclusive Westend district, west of the Altstadt, is a residential and embassy quarter. It was the only part of Frankfurt that was not destroyed during the Allied bombing of the city in World War II. The huge, modern Frankfurt Messe (trade-fair convention center) is considered part of the Westend.
The embankment (Ufer) along the river’s south side, is the site of many prominent museums, some of them housed in former riverside villas.
This district on the south side of the river, is a popular entertainment quarter filled with Frankfurt’s famous apple-wine taverns.
BY FOOT After you arrive in the Altstadt, you can easily get everywhere, including the Museumsufer on the opposite bank of the river, on foot.
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION A network of modern U-Bahn (subways), Strassenbahn (streetcars), and buses, administered by the RMV (Rhein-Main Verkehrsverbund; 069/19449; www.vgf-ffm.de), links Frankfurt. All forms of public transportation can be used interchangeably at a single price based on fare zones. Tickets are good for 1 hour on routes going in the same direction. Purchase your tickets at ticket counters or from the coin-operated machines found in U-Bahn stations and next to tram and bus stops. The ticket machines have user screens in English to guide you through the process. A one-way single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) within the city center costs 2.20€ for adults, 1.35€ for children.
BY TAXI To call a taxi, dial 069/230001. You can also get a cab at one of the city’s clearly designated taxi stands, or by hailing one on the street (the car’s roof light will be illuminated if it’s available). Taxis charge by the trip and by the number of passengers, without extra surcharges for luggage. The initial charge is 2.50€; each kilometer costs 1.70€.
Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof, opposite the main entrance of the train station ( 069/2123-8800; www.frankfurt-tourismus.de), is open Monday through Friday 8am to 9pm and Saturday through Sunday 9am to 6pm. Tourist Information Römer, Römerberg 27 ( 069/2123-8800), in the Altstadt, is open Monday through Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday through Sunday 10am to 4pm.
Frankfurt is an expensive, business-oriented city, and you can save a bundle by booking one of the air-hotel packages available from major airlines. Note that hotel rates can almost double when there is a major trade fair going on.
Art-Hotel Robert Mayer 
This artfully decorated Westend hotel is within walking distance of Frankfurt’s trade-fair complex. The building dates from 1905, but the rooms were completely redone in 1994, when 11 artists were hired to lend their individual visions to each of the 11 bedrooms; one was inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright, another looks Italian postmodern with pop art. You get the, er, picture. All the rooms are comfortable and stylish. Many restaurants are nearby.
Robert-Mayer-Strasse 44. 
069/9709100. www.arthotel-frankfurt.de. 11 units. 99€–275€ double with breakfast. U-Bahn: Bockenheimer Warte: Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Two special tickets help you save money on public transportation in Frankfurt: A Tageskarte (day ticket) good for unlimited travel inside Frankfurt’s central zone, costs 5.60€ for adults and 3.35€ for children. You can buy this ticket from the ticket machines. The Frankfurt Card, available at the city’s tourist offices, allows unlimited travel anywhere within the greater Frankfurt area, transport on the airport shuttle bus, a reduction on the tourist office’s sightseeing tour, and half-price admission to many of the city’s museums. The cost is 8.70€ for a 1-day card and 13€ for a 2-day card.
Hotelschiff Peter Schlott You’ll be rocked to bed, like a baby in a cradle in this 1950’s era riverboat, now permanently moored in the Frankfurt suburb of Höchst. All of them have washbasins, 10 have tiny showers, but none has a private toilet. As you might imagine, everything is cabin-size and pretty basic (some rooms are just a cut above a hostel), but if you love boats you’ll enjoy hearing the waters of the Main lapping beneath your window. The ship’s narrow and steep staircases are not easy to navigate if you have lots of luggage or difficulty walking. There’s a nice cafe and restaurant on board.
Mainberg. 069/3004643. www.hotel-schiff-schlott.de. 19 units. 65€–100€double with breakfast. S-Bahn: Höchst. Amenities: Restaurant, free Wi-Fi.
The Pure White on white on more white (with some dark wood and orange thrown in for accenting)—that about sums up the decor at this uber-hip, Zen property. If you like modern decor, you’ll think this place is stunning (most do). But in the end, no matter how trendy it is, a good hotel must provide efficient service and a good bed, and The Pure is a winner there as well.
Niddastrasse 86. 069/710-4570. www.the-pure.de. 50 units. 140€–200€ double with breakfast. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant, bar, fitness center, free Wi-Fi.
In recent years, Frankfurt has become, along with Berlin and Munich, one of Germany’s great dining capitals, with restaurants that offer an array of richly varied cuisines—at predictably steep rices. But there are places where you can to eat well for less. The Apfelwein (apple wine) taverns in Sachsenhausen on the south bank of the Main, tend to serve traditional Hessian dishes such as Rippchen mit Kraut (pickled pork chops with sauerkraut), Haspel (pigs’ knuckles), and Handkäs mit Musik (strong, cheese with vinegar, oil, and chopped onions; not recommended for honeymooners). One condiment unique to Frankfurt is grüne Sosse, a green sauce made from seven herbs and other seasonings, chopped hard-boiled eggs, and sour cream, usually served with boiled eggs, boiled beef (Tafelspitz), or poached fish.
Exedra GREEK/MACEDONIAN Behind an ornate 19th-century facade is one of the best Greek restaurants in Frankfurt. All the menu offerings are reliably good. The grilled lamb with feta-cheese sauce and grilled sweet peppers, and the pan-fried veal with white-wine and lemon sauce are both excellent. As for ambiance, it’s a large and fairly plain taverna, but with big windows overlooking the street. Exedra also serves as a cafe-bar in the early mornings.
Heiligkreuzgasse 29. 069/287397. Main courses 10€–20€. Mon–Fri 8:30am–midnight; Sat–Sun 4pm–midnight. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.
Haus Wertheym GERMAN/HESSIAN Wertheym operates three old-fashioned, atmospheric, and relatively inexpensive restaurants in the Altstadt: Restaurant Haus Wertheym, a half-timbered house on a cobblestone street just west of the Römer; Historix ( 069/29-44-00; Saalgasse 19), an apple-wine tavern right across from it; and Römer-Bembel, a larger tavern with outdoor tables right on Römer square ( 069/28-83-83). Wood paneling and antique accessories decorate the interiors of all three. The menus favor traditional dishes such as Frankfurter sausages, pork Schnitzels (breaded cutlets), Frankfurter Hacksteak (chopped steak), and a good Tafelspitz (boiled beef) that comes with the restaurant’s trademark green sauce. The waiters can be brusque when the places are busy.
Fahrtor 1. 069/28-14-32. Main courses 8€–24€. Daily 11am–11pm. U-Bahn: Römer.
Restaurant Français 
FRENCH It’s a dress-up affair at the Restaurant Francais (men are requested to wear coats and ties) but that seems in keeping with the dining experience at this stylish and well heeled eatery in the grand Steigenberger Frankfurter hotel. Does it have the best French cooking in Germany? Many think so and we’ll say that the Chef Patrick Bittner’s food is creative, delicious, and beautifully presented. To sample the full range of flavors, go for the seven-course tasting menu (you can also order three-, four-, five-, or six-course fixed-price menus). Your starter might be Alsatian goose liver with apricots and artichokes or a cream of celery soup with scampi, followed by Scottish partridge with grapes and raddichio, or Breton turbot with celery red onions. (The menu changes weekly.) Desserts are refined and delectable—which is how you might describe the entire experience. An expert sommelier is on hand to recommend the perfect wine accompaniment.
In the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof, Am Kaiserplatz. 069/21502. www.restaurant-francais.de. Reservations required. Main courses 38€–48€; fixed-price menus 74€–135€. Mon–Fri noon–1:45pm and 6:30–10:30pm. U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.
Tiger Gourmet Restaurant/Palastbar-Restaurant INTERNATIONAL What came first, the first-class variety show or the first-class restaurant? Well, this 190-seat venue has been playing two shows a night for 25 years old, but the gourmet restaurant only took off in 2000 when Andreas Kroliks’ cooking was awarded a Michelin star. Eating here, as at Restaurant Francais, can be very pricey, but if you combine it with watching the show, it gives you a totally unique and very high-caliber dining-entertainment experience that goes way beyond supper-club standards. There is a 6-course seasonal tasting menu and other multi-course menus that show off Kroliks culinary talents (or you can order a la carte). In season, you might encounter a fresh “fruits of the sea” menu featuring hamachi, Arctic char, and a medley of other fresh fish dishes. There are vegetarian entrees, as well. More people tend to eat in the larger and less elaborate Palast-Resaurant, but it’s kind of like business class as opposed to first-class. The service here is deftly professional and the show (see Tigerpalast, below) is comparable to Cique de Soleil but on a very small stage.
Heiligkreuzgasse 16–20. 069/9200220. www.tigerpalast.com. Reservations required. Gourmet Restaurant main courses 45€–65€, fixed-price menus 110€–135€. Palastbar-Restaurant main courses 25€–38€. Gourmet Restaurant Tues–Sat 7pm–midnight. Palastbar-Restaurant Tues–Sun 5pm–1am. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.
You can explore Frankfurt’s compact Altstadt and Innenstadt on foot. Nearly all the main sights lie within the boundaries of the old town walls (which today form a stretch of narrow parkland around the Altstadt) or are just across the river along the Museumsuffer (Museum Embankment), where several museums are located along Schaumainkai, the street that runs directly parallel to the river Main.
In Sachsenhausen and taverns around the city, real Frankfurters, smoked sausages made from pork and spices, are almost always on the menu. The oldest-known recipe dates from 1487. The local product has been labeled “genuine Frankfurt sausage” since about 1900 to distinguish it from the American hot dog (hot dogs are for sale in Frankfurt, too, but always under the name “hot dog”). Unlike hot dogs, Frankfurters are long, skinny, and always served in pairs; like all German sausages, they contain no fillers.
Several of Frankfurt’s best and most-visited museums are found across the river from the Altstadt along the Main embankment on a street called Schaumainkai. The Eisener Steg, an old iron bridge, spans the river, connecting the Altstadt to Museumsufer.
Deutsches Architekturmuseum (German Architecture Museum) MUSEUM Housed in a pair of 19th-century villas, this museum isn’t for everyone, but will intrigue those with an interest in architecture or urban planning. On display is a collection of 19th- and 20th-century architectural plans and models, examples of international modern architecture, and a series of exhibits showing how human dwellings have evolved over time in different parts of the world.
Schaumainkai 43. 069/21238844. Admission 6€ adults, 3€ students and children. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm (Wed until 8pm). U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.
Deutsches Filmmuseum (German Film Museum) MUSEUM Deutsches Filmmuseum is one of the two top film museums in Germany (the other is in Berlin). The first-floor galleries chronicle the history of the German and European filmmaking industry with examples of moviemaking equipment and models illustrating how special effects are shot (highlights include Emile Reynaud’s 1882 Praxinoscope, Edison’s 1889 Kinetoscope, and a copy of the Lumière brothers’ Cinematograph from 1895). Old German films play continuously on the second floor.
Schaumainkai 41. 069/21238830. Admission 2.50€ adults, 1.30€ students and children. Tues and Thurs–Fri 10am–5pm; Wed and Sun 10am–7pm; Sat 2–7pm. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.
Liebieghaus (Liebieg Sculpture Museum) MUSEUM This important museum, housed in an elegant 19th-century villa, displays superb sculptures of the human face and form created over a 1,500-year period. There’s an intimacy and expressiveness in some of these pieces that is both timeless and somehow elevating. Each piece is beautifully displayed, which adds to the aesthetic pleasure of a trip here.
The Liebighaus collection includes noteworthy pieces from ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, and from medieval and Renaissance Europe. In the medieval section, look for the 11th-century carving of the Virgin and Child created in Trier, the expressive 16th-century Madonna created by Tilman Riemenschneider, the brilliant woodcarver from Würzburg (for more on his work, and where it’s found, see chapter 7), Andrea della Robbia’s altarpiece of the Assumption, and the 16th-century Black Venus with Mirror. Give yourself at least an hour to see the major works.
Schaumainkai 71. 069/21238617. Admission 7€ adults; 5€ seniors, students, and children. Fri–Tues 10am–5pm; Wed–Thurs 10am–9pm. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.
A good way to see Frankfurt, especially when your time is limited, is by the daily guided tour offered by the city’s tourist offices. The 2½-hour bus tour, in English, picks up passengers at 2pm from Touristinfo Römer (Römerberg 27, in the Altstadt; 069/2123-8800) and at 2:15pm from Touristinfo Hauptbahnhof (opposite the main entrance of the train station). From April through October, an additional tour leaves from the Römer at 10am and from the train station at 10:15am The tour covers the entire city and includes a trip to the Goethe House and, in the summer, the top of the Commerzbank tower, Frankfurt’s tallest skyscraper. The cost is 26€ for adults, 21€ for students, and 10€ for children ages 6 to 10. Buy tickets at the tourist offices.
Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Arts) MUSEUM Two buildings—one an early-19th-century villa, the other a 1985 structure designed by architect Richard Meier—house this enormous collection of European, Asian, and Islamic objects. The museum has outstanding collections of glassware (including 15th-c. Venetian pieces), German rococo furnishings, and porcelain.
Schaumainkai 17. 069/2123-4037. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ students and children. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (Wed until 9pm). U-Bahn: Römer.
Städelsches Kunstinstitut/Städische Galerie (Städel Art Institute/Städel Gallery) MUSEUM The Städel is Frankfurt’s most important art gallery, and one of the the top museums in Germany, bringing together noteoworthy collections of painting, sculpture, and drawings from medieval to modern Europe, and a photography collection that spans the entire spectrum of photographic art. The first floor features French Impressionists such as Renoir and Monet, along with German painters of the 19th and 20th centuries, including Tischbein’s famous Portrait of Goethe in the Campagna in Italy. If you’re short on time, the second floor displays an outstanding collection of Flemish primitives, 17th-century Dutch artists, and 16th-century German masters, such as Dürer, Grünewald, and Memling. One of the most impressive paintings is Jan van Eyck’s “Madonna” (1433). A large altarpiece and an impish nude Venus represent the work of Lucas Cranach. In the Department of Modern Art hang works by Francis Bacon, Dubuffet, Tapies, and Yves Klein.
Schaumainkai 63. 069/605-0980. 10€ adults, 8€ children 9–16. Tues and Fri–Sun 10am–5pm; Wed–Thurs 10am–9pm. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN FRANKFURT
Commerzbank Tower ARCHITECTURAL SITE/VIEW The outdoor observation deck on the 56th floor of this gleaming, cylindrical tower in the city center provides a spectacular panorama of Frankfurt and the entire region. The building, constructed in 1997, is the tallest building in Western Europe.
Neue Mainzer Strasse 52–58. 069/36504777. Admission 4.60€. Sun–Thurs 10am–9pm (until 7pm in winter); Fri–Sat 10am–11pm (until 9pm in winter). U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.
Goethe-Haus (Goethe House) MUSEUM/HISTORIC SITE Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832), Germany’s greatest writer, was born in this spacious, light-filled house and lived here until 1765, when he moved to Weimar. Reconstructed after wartime damage, the ocher-colored house still manages to convey the feeling of a prosperous, tranquil home life in bygone days. The interior decoration reflects the baroque, rococo, and neoclassical styles of the 18th century. Paintings of friends and family adorn the walls. The room where Goethe wrote is on the second floor; the room next door displays one of his most cherished childhood possessions, a puppet theater. Annexed to the house is the modern, glass-fronted Goethe-Museum. Of interest to Goethe specialists, the museum contains a library of books, manuscripts, graphic artworks, and paintings associated with Goethe and his works.
Grosser Hirschgraben 23–25. 069/138800. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€students, 1.50€ children. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 10am–5:30pm. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptwache.
Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral) CHURCH The famous dome-topped west tower of the Kaiserdom (also known as Bartholomäus-Dom/Cathedral of St. Bartholomew) dominates the Altstadt. The highly ornamented tower dates from the 15th century and is built of red sandstone. Construction on the cathedral began in the 13th century and went on to the 15th, but the structure wasn’t entirely completed until 1877. The church gained cathedral status in the 14th century when it became the site of the election of the emperors (called Kaisers in Germany) of the Holy Roman Empire. Later, between 1562 and 1792, the Kaisers also were crowned here, so the church became known as the Kaiserdom. Previous coronations had taken place in Aachen Cathedral. Destroyed by Allied bombs in 1944, the cathedral was painstakingly rebuilt in 1953. The layout is a fairly simple Gothic hall-church with three naves and a transept. The Dom Museum in the church’s 19th-century cloister, exhibits coronation robes of the imperial electors. The oldest vestments date from the 1400s.
Domplatz. 069/29703236. Church free; Dom Museum 2€ adults, 1€ children. Church daily 9am–noon and 2–6pm; Dom Museum Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–5pm. U-Bahn: Römer.
Museum für Moderne Kunst (Museum of Modern Art) MUSEUM The Germans are great collectors of modern and contemporary American art from the New York School, and museums reverentially displaying the works of Andy Warhol and other big-name American artists are found throughout the country. This is one of them, and if you are interested in the works of major American artists since the 1950s, you will enjoy the painting collections on display here. The big, bold works by Americans Roy Liechtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Warhol and George Segal tend to steal the show from the modern German artists (Joseph Beuys, Lothar Baumgarten, Herbert Brandl) whose works are also on permanent display. The museum serves as a useful tool to tune in on current trends in international contemporary art. Located 1 block north of the cathedral in the Altstadt, the MMK opened in 1991 in a postmodern building designed by Austrian architect Hans Hollein. The massive triangular structure, with its projecting and receding window openings, stands in stark contrast to everything around it. A pleasant cafe-restaurant is on the premises.
Domstrasse 10. 069/212-0447. Admission 7€ adults, 3.50€ students. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (Wed until 8pm). U-Bahn: Römer.
Römer and Römerberg HISTORIC SITE As early as the Stone Age, people occupied this high ground that was later settled by the Romans. After Germanic tribes conquered the Romans, the settlement fell into ruins and was forgotten until construction workers in the 20th century stumbled across its ancient remains. But from then to now, this area in Frankfurt’s Altstadt has always played a prominent role in the life of the city, both physically and psychically. The Altstadt centers around three Gothic buildings with stepped gables, known collectively as the Römer—the German word for Roman, and perhaps an oblique reference to the Holy Roman Empire and Holy Roman Emperor who, from the 10th to the 16th centuries, was crowned in the nearby Kaiserdom. These houses, just west of the cathedral, originally were built between 1288 and 1305 and then bought by the city a century later for use as the Rathaus (Town Hall). After his coronation in the Kaiserdom, a new emperor and his entourage paraded westward to the Römer for a banquet. In the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall), on the second floor of the center house, you can see romanticized images of 52 emperors sculpted in the 19th century to celebrate the thousand-year history of the Holy Roman Empire. Medieval city officials and their families watched plays and tournaments from a specially built gallery on the Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas Church), the small chapel in front of the city hall. The chapel has a 35-bell carillon that plays at 9:05am, 12:05pm, and 5:05pm. Römerplatz, the square in front of the Römer, is one of Frankfurt’s most popular spots, with a series of rebuilt half-timbered buildings housing cafes and restaurants. In December, it becomes the site of Frankfurt’s giant Christmas Market. The elaborate facade of the Römer, with its ornate balcony and statues of emperors, overlooks the Römerberg (Roman Hill).
Römer. Kaisersaal 069/21234814. Admission 2€. Daily 10am–1pm and 2–5pm. U-Bahn: Römer.
As you might expect, this big, modern, wealthy and international city serves as a shopping Mecca for the entire region. The Zeil, reputedly the busiest shopping street in Germany, is a pedestrian zone between the Hauptwache and Konstablerwache. It’s loaded with department stores, clothing shops, shoe stores, boutiques of all kinds, restaurants, cafes and people. The Hauptwache, in the center of Frankfurt, has two shopping areas, one above and one below ground. Schillerstrasse, another pedestrian zone, lies between Hauptwache and Eschenheimer Turm, near the stock exchange. Walking from Schillerstrasse northeast toward Eschenheimer Tor, you pass many elegant boutiques and specialty shops. Southwest of the Hauptwache is Goethestrasse, with exclusive stores evocative of Paris or Milan.
Höchster Porzellan Manufaktur CHINA & GLASSWARE If you’re looking for a special piece of porcelain, this store contains one of Germany’s largest inventories of Höchst porcelain, called “white gold” and manufactured for the past 260 years. Am Kornmarkt/Berliner Strasse 60. 069/295-299. www.hoechster-porzellan.de. U-Bahn: Römer.
Frankfurt may be big and cosmopolitan, but it lacks the spit and spirit that animates the nightlife in places like Berlin and even nearby Cologne. It’s not dull, exactly, but it’s geared to banking and bankers rather than the young and young at heart. But that’s not to say that you won’t be able to find anything to do after dark. You will—but not with the choices you’d find in other German cities. For details about what’s happening in Frankfurt, pick up “Journal Frankfurt” at newsstands throughout the city. “Fritz” and “Strandgut,” both free and available at the tourist office, also have listings. To purchase tickets for major cultural events, go to the venue box office (Kasse) or to the Touristinfo office at the main train station or in the Römer. One of the best ways to spend an evening is at an apple-wine taverns in Sachsenhausen (see below).
He’s a memory now, but up until World War II, the image of Struwwelpeter, with his enormous shock of hair and Edward Scissorhands-length fingernails, was ingrained in the nightmares of every German child and many children throughout the world. (Struwwelpeter’s grotesque hair and fingernails were the result of his bad-boy behavior.) Published in 1844, Struwwelpeter was the creation of Heinrich Hoffman (1809–94), a Frankfurt physician who wrote gruesomely moralistic children’s stories. The illustrated story became one of the most popular “children’s books” in Germany and was translated into 14 languages (in England, Struwwelpeter became “Shockheaded Peter”). The entertaining Struwwelpeter-Museum, Schirn, Römerberg, Bendergass 1 (
069/281-333), displays original sketches and illustrations with copies of the book (and its classic image of Struwwelpeter) from many different countries. Admission is free; the museum, located alongside the Schirn Gallery, is open Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 5pm.
Alte Oper CONCERT HALL When the Alte Oper (Old Opera House) opened in 1880, critics hailed the building as one of the most beautiful theaters in Europe. Destroyed in the war, the Alte Oper didn’t reopen until 1981. Today the theater, with its golden-red mahogany interior and superb acoustics, is the site of frequent symphonic and choral concerts, but opera is not performed here. Opernplatz. 069/1340400. www.alteoper.de. U-Bahn: Alte Oper.
Oper Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt PERFORMING ARTS VENUE This is Frankfurt’s premier showcase for opera and ballet. Willy-Brandt-Platz. 069/134-0400. www.oper-frankfurt.de. U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.
English Theater THEATER This long-establish theater presents English-language musicals, comedies, dramas, and thrillers. Kaiserstrasse 52. 069/24231620. www.english-theatre.org. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Tigerpalast CABARET/THE PERFORMING ARTS This is the most famous cabaret in Frankfurt. Shows take place in a small theater, where guests sit at tiny tables to see about eight different acts (you can also have dinner before or after the twice-nightly shows, see Tiger Gourmet Restaurant under “Where to Eat,” above) Each show, a kind of small-scale Cirque de Soleil with an overall theme and a roster of every-changing artistes ranging from gymnasts and acrobats to magic tricks and musicians, lasts 2 hours with breaks for drinks and snacks. You don’t need to know German to enjoy the show, which is excellent family-style entertainment. Heiligkreuzgasse 16–20. 069/289691. www.tigerpalast.de. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.
Café Karin CAFE This unpretentious cafe with art-filled walls, old wooden tables, daily newspapers, and cafe food, is a good place to stop for coffee, a glass of wine or beer, or a light meal. Grosser Hirschgraben 28. 069/295-217. U-Bahn: Hauptwache. Mon–Sat 9am–midnight; Sun 10am–7pm.
Café Laumer CAFE A classic German Kaffeehaus with a large garden, Café Laumer serves some of the best pastries in town. It’s had plenty of time to perfect its recipes since it’s been around since 1919. Bockenheimer Landstrasse 67. 069/727912. Mon–Sat 9:30am–7pm; Sun 10am–7pm. U-Bahn: Westend.
Sachsenhausen, the district south of the River Main, has long been known for its taverns where Apfelwein, not beer, is the special drink. At an apple-wine tavern, everyone sits together at long wooden tables and, sooner or later, the singing starts.
Apfelwein (pronounced ebb-el-vye in the local dialect) is a dry, alcoholic, 12-proof apple cider. The wine always is poured from a blue-and-gray stoneware jug into glasses embossed with a diamond-shaped pattern. The first sip may pucker your whole body and convince you that you’re drinking vinegar. If drinking straight Apfelwein is too much for you, try a Sauergespritzt (sour spritzer), a mixture of Apfelwein and plain mineral water, or a Süssgespritzt (sweet spritzer), Apfelwein mixed with lemonade-like mineral water.
Although available year-round, Apfelwein also comes in seasonal versions. Süsser (sweet), sold in the autumn, is the dark, cloudy product of the first pressing of the apple harvest. When the wine starts to ferment it’s called Rauscher, which means it’s darker and more acidic. You’re supposed to drink Süsser and Rauscher straight, not mixed.
The Apfelwein taverns in Sachsenhausen display a pine wreath outside when a new barrel has arrived. The taverns usually serve traditional meals; hard rolls, salted bread sticks, and pretzels for nibbling are on the tables, too. What you eat, including the snacks, goes on your tab. The following are traditional Apfelwein taverns; all of them are Gartenlokale, meaning they move their tables outside in good weather:
Zum Eichkatzerl, Greieichstrasse 29 ( 069/617-480), open Thursday to Tuesday from 3pm to midnight. Fichtekränzi, Wallstrasse 5 ( 069/612-778), open Monday to Saturday from 5pm. to midnight. Zum Gemalten Haus, Schweizer Strasse 67 ( 069/614-559), open Wednesday to Sunday from 10am to midnight; closed mid-June to the end of July.
On Saturdays, Sundays, and holiday afternoons throughout the year, you can hop on the Ebbelwei-Express ( 069/21322425), an old, colorfully painted trolley, and ride all through Frankfurt and over to the apple-wine taverns in Sachsenhausen. The entire route takes about an hour and costs 6€ for adults and 3€ for children up to 14. The fare includes a glass of apple wine (or apple juice). You can buy tickets from the conductor. Catch the trolley at Römer, Konstablerwache, or the main train station; service starts about 1:30pm and ends about 5pm.
Café-Restaurant in der Schirn CAFE Located in the Schirn Museum in the heart of the Altstadt, this stylish steel, glass, and granite see-and-be-seen cafe-bar-restaurant has outdoor tables in summer. The restaurant, under Chef Michael Frank, is completely organic. Römerberg 6A. 069/291732. Tues–Sun 10am–10:30pm; bar open until midnight. U-Bahn: Römer.
Harvey’s Cafe Bar CAFE/BAR This popular and pleasantly relaxed cafe and bar with outdoor seating in summer draws a mixed gay-straight crowd and occasionally features live disco bands on the weekend. Bornheimer Landstrasse 64. 069/497303. Daily 10am–1am. U-Bahn: Hauptwache.
La Gata CAFE/BAR The most upfront lesbian bar in Frankfurt looks like a rustic English pub and serves soups and snacks as well as cocktails. Seehofstrasse 3. 069/614581. Daily 8pm–midnight (Fri–Sat from 9pm). U-Bahn: Südbahnhof.
Luna BAR A hip bar that’s always packed with young professionals, this is the sort of place where singles mix as true mixologists—bartenders who know a thing or two about grasshoppers, juleps, champagne fizzes, and tropical coladas—work their magic. Stiftstrasse 6. 069/294774. Sun–Thurs 7pm–2am; Fri–Sat 7pm–3am. U-Bahn: Hauptwache.
Nachtleben CAFE/BAR/DANCE CLUB The name means “nightlife,” and this is one place where you can party until the wee hours. There’s a cafe-bar upstairs and a disco downstairs that plays hip-hop, funk, soul, and house. Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 50. 069/20650. Mon–Sat 11:30am–4am; Sun 7pm–2am. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.
WIESBADEN, MAINZ & THE RHEINGAU WINE DISTRICT
Frankfurt is close and convenient to many historic towns and scenic regions in western Germany. On a day trip you can visit the ancient cathedral town of Mainz, the popular spa town of Wiesbaden, and the Rheingau, one of Germany’s great wine-producing areas. The itinerary below is a driving tour—but it can also be done by train.
The itinerary begins in Mainz, about 43.5km (27 miles) southwest of Frankfurt (about 40 min. by train). From Mainz you can continue by car, boat or train to Bingen. If you’re driving from Frankfurt, take the A66.
This ancient city lies on the west bank of the Rhine at its confluence with the Main (the river that flows through Frankfurt). Founded by the Romans around 13 B.C. it played a key role in the empire’s strategic string of forts and defenses along the Rhine. Situated at the intersection of the Rheinhessen and Rheingau wine regions, Mainz today is a bustling wine town that celebrates the grape with annual wine festivals on the first week in August and September. You can pick up a map and at the tourist information center (Brückenturm am Rathaus; www.touristic-mainz.de). Put the Altstadt (Old Town) at the top of your sightseeing list and head first to the 11th-century Dom (Cathedral), Marktplatz (www.mainz-dom.de). This venerable red-sandstone edifice, which since the 11th century has served as the church of the Archbishop of Mainz, is the most important Catholic cathedral in Germany after Cologne. Its oldest parts are early Romanesque in style, but, as with the cathedral at Aachen (Go to Page), later Gothic additions obscure some of its great age. After admiring the cathedral, head to the nearby Stephenskirche (Church of St. Stephen) to see the stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall, installed in 1978. The world-changing achievements of native son Johanes Gutenberg, inventer of the movable-type printing press, are chronicled at the Gutenberg Museum (Liebfrauenplatz 5; www.gutenbergmuseum.de). Free admission to cathedral; tours (in German) Mon, Wed, Fri-Sun 2pm, 5€; tours in English by special request at cathedral information kiosk. Mon-Fri 9am-6:30pm (Nov–Feb until 5pm), Sat 9am-4pm, Sun 12:45-3pm and 4-6:30pm (Nov–Feb until 5pm).
From Mainz, take A60 and then A643 across the Rhine to Wiesbaden, 21km (13 miles). It’s a 15-minute train ride (schedules at www.bahn.com), or you can go by boat (schedules at www.k-d.de).
Wiesbaden is one of Germany’s most popular spa towns—second only to Baden-Baden in the Black Forest. To understand just what a German spa experience is all about, head over to the massive, modern Kaiser Friedrich Therme, Langgasse 38–40 ( 0611/1729660; www.wiesbaden.de; 10€–23€; daily 8am–10pm), for a relaxing sauna or a swim in one of the several thermal pools. For a good meal—and some fun spa-town people-watching—head over to Käfer’s Bistro, Im Kurhaus ( 0611/536200; main courses 14€–24€; daily 11:30am–1am), a popular spot located in the town’s stately Kurhaus (and casino), a long-established center of social life in the spa town. The seasonally changing menu has many healthy choices, including fresh salads, as well as traditional Rhineland cuisine.
From Wiesbaden, head west along the north bank of the Rhine for 50km (31 miles) to Rüdesheim 
, described below under “Day Trips from Cologne.” You can also travel this section by train in about 30 minutes. This part of the day trip takes you through the Rhinegau.
This part of the day trip takes you through the Rheingau wine district 
, a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine Valley west of Wiesbaden. Vineyards on terraced hllsides have produced wine here since Roman times. The wind-sheltered southern slopes of the Taunus range, on the river’s northern bank, get plenty of sunshine and comparatively little rain, conditions the Romans recognized as perfect for grape-growing. The Rheingau wine grapes produce a delicately fruity wine with a full aroma. Eighty percent of this wine comes from the Riesling grape, and wine fans consider Rheingau Rieslings to be among the best white wines made anywhere.
From Rüdesheim you can continue north along the Middle Rhine, described under “Day Trips from Cologne” or return to Frankfurt (about 1 hr. by car or train) or Cologne (about 2 hr. by car or train).
It’s difficult not to like Cologne. Visitors to this lively metropolis on the Rhine, Germany’s fourth-largest and oldest city, are immediately struck by Cologne’s cheek-by-jowl juxtaposition of the very old with the very new. You can see Roman ruins in an underground parking garage, a dizzyingly ornate Gothic cathedral beside a modern museum complex, and a humble Romanesque church wedged in among luxury shops. On a 10-minute walk in Cologne, you can traverse 2,000 years of history.
Cologne—spelled Köln in Germany and pronounced koeln—offers far more than Germany’s largest cathedral, although that is spectacular and reason enough to visit. The range of Cologne’s museums and the quality of their collections make Cologne one of the outstanding museum cities of Germany. Music, whether it’s a symphony concert in the modern philharmonic hall, an opera at the highly regarded opera house, or a boisterous outdoor concert in the Rheinpark, is likewise a vital component of life here. The city also is famous as the birthplace of eau de Cologne.
Cologne traces its beginnings to 38 B.C., when Roman legions set up camp here. As early as A.D. 50, the emperor Claudius gave the city municipal rights as capital of a Roman province. In addition to its substantial Roman legacy, the city boasts 12 major Romanesque churches. Older than the cathedral, the churches drew medieval pilgrims from all across Europe to “Holy Cologne,” one of the most important pilgrimage cities in medieval Christendom.
Many cities throughout Germany have Christmas markets, but only the traditionally Catholic cities celebrate carnival—a time when the weather may be gray, but spirits are high. Cologne’s Carnival, the city’s “fifth season,” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events in Germany. The season officially lasts from New Year’s Eve to Ash Wednesday. During this period, Cologne buzzes with masked balls, parades, and general delirium. Natives call this celebration Fasteleer or Fastelovend. We highly recommend visiting at this time---just make sure to book a room in advance.
Like Munich, Cologne is a city that likes to have fun, and a huge student population keeps it buzzing and vital. The Kölner themselves are refreshingly relaxed and down-to-earth in how they enjoy their city. Ancient traditions are annually renewed in the city’s raucous pre-Lenten Carnival (called Fasching), a time of masked balls, parades, and general delirium. When the weather turns warm, visitors and citizens alike stroll along the Rhine promenades and flock to outdoor taverns and restaurants to enjoy the pleasures of a Kölsch, Cologne’s unique and delicious beer, and a substantial meal of hearty Rhineland cuisine.
BY TRAIN Cologne is a major rail hub, so reaching the city from anywhere in Germany or the rest of Europe is easy. Frequent daily trains arrive from Berlin (trip time: 5½ hr.), Frankfurt (trip time under 1 hr.), and Hamburg (trip time: 4½ hr.). The Cologne Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is in the heart of the city. For schedules, call Deutsch Bahn at 11861 or visit www.bahn.com.
BY PLANE Cologne’s airport, Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn ( 02203/40-40-01; www.airport-cgn.de), is located 14km (9 miles) southeast of the city. Direct flights arrive from most major European cities. The fastest and simplest way to get into the city is by taking an S-Bahn train (S-13) from the airport train station directly to the Cologne main train station. The trip takes 20 minutes; the fare is 3€. A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 30€.
BY CAR Cologne is easily reached from major German cities. It’s connected north and south by the A3 Autobahn and east and west by the A4 Autobahn.
The major sights of Cologne, including the mighty cathedral and the most important museums, are all located in the Altstadt (Old Town), the restored and much altered medieval core of the city. The Altstadt spreads in a semicircle west from the Rhine to a ring road that follows the line of the 12th-century city walls (demolished, except for three gateways, in the 19th c.). The center of the Altstadt is the Innenstadt (Inner City), the historical heart of Cologne, where the Romans built their first walled colony.
The ring road and a greenbelt in the southwest (the location of the university) girdle Neustadt, the “new” part of town dating from the 19th century.
BELGISCHES VIERTEL (BELGIAN QUARTER)
Called the Belgian Quarter because its street names refer to Belgian cities and provinces, this inner-city neighborhood just west of the Altstadt doesn’t have tourist attractions but it’s popular with students and has some good, non-touristy cafes and restaurants.
The area across the river, on the Rhine’s east bank, is called Deutz. Besides providing the best views of the cathedral-dominated Cologne skyline, Deutz is where you find the Köln Messe (trade-fair grounds) and the Rhinepark. The city’s early industrial plants were concentrated in Deutz, and many of them are still there.
The compact and pedestrian-friendly Altstadt, where you find the cathedral and most of the major attractions, is most easily explored on foot. The city also has an excellent bus, tram, U-Bahn (subway), and S-Bahn (light rail) system. A CityTicket, good for a single one-way fare within the inner city is 1.90€ for adults, 0.95€ for children. Purchase tickets from the automated machines (labeled Fahrscheine), from bus drivers, or at the stations. Be sure to validate your ticket before entering; validation machines are in stations and on buses. For information about public transportation, call VRS at 01803/504-030 or visit www.kvb-koeln.de.
Taxi meters start at 3€ plus 1€ if you hail a taxi from the street; the fare rises 1.55€ to 1.70€ per kilometer thereafter, depending on time of day. To order a taxi, call Taxi-Ruf at 0221/19410.
For tourist information, go to the Köln Tourismus Office, Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1 ( 0221/22130400; www.cologne-tourism.com), a few steps from the cathedral. The office has city maps, a room-rental service, and information on city attractions, including tours. It’s open Mon-Sat 9am to 8pm, Sun 10am-5pm.
Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen The two town houses that make up this very old-fashioned and atmospheric hotel stand on a corner of a historic square, right on the Rhine in one of the busiest sections of the Altstadt. On the ground floor there’s a long-established wine restaurant (see “Where to Eat”), somewhat unusual in beer-drinking Cologne. The rooms differ according to what building you’re in. The “newer” one has rooms created in the 1960s—comfortable but pretty plain. Rooms in the older building are also fairly basic but not lacking in a kind of creaky-floored, old-fashioned charm, some with beamed ceilings (the one at the top still has the crane that was once used to haul goods and furniture up and down). Most of the small bathrooms have showers; a few have tubs, too. You can easily walk everywhere in the Altstadt from here. Just be aware that voices and laughter from the surrounding restaurants can go on until after midnight. Alas, no wifi is offered.
Fischmarkt 1–3. 0221/272-7777. www.kleines-stapelhaeuschen.de. 31 units. 64€–115€ double with breakfast. U-Bahn: Heumarkt. Amenities: Restaurant.
Excelsior Hotel Ernst Walk out of the train station in Cologne and you stare up, mesmerized, at the enormous cathedral, one of the architectural wonders of Europe. You can see the cathedral from some of the rooms in the grand Excelsior Hotel Ernst, founded in 1863. But that’s not the only masterpiece on view: The breakfast room contains a Gobelins tapestry, and the walls of the public areas are hung with works by big names (like Van Dyck). The art is set off by gleaming and elegant public rooms with marble floors and beautiful finishes. Guest rooms are swank (especially those in the newly refurbished Hanseflügel wing), with high ceilings, French windows (often with Juliet balconies), fine linens and such nice perks as a complimentary minibar (filled with excellent German beer). Bathrooms throughout are large and luxurious, but the bathrooms in the Hanseflügel wing are truly astounding, with big marble-clad tubs and huge rain showers. Both of the hotel’s restaurants—the traditional Hanse Stube and Asian-fusion Taku—are noteworthy gourmet destinations. This is one of the few luxury hotels that includes breakfast in the room rate, and it’s a sumptuous affair. Hotel Excelsior Ernst also stands out for its incredibly friendly and helpful staff (the hotel has one of the highest staff-to-guest ratios of any hotel in Germany).
Trankgasse 1–5. 0221/2701. www.excelsiorhotelernst.de. 152 units. 265€–440€ double with breakfast. Parking 25€. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: 2 restaurants; exercise room; business center; sauna, Wi-Fi (22€ per day).
Hotel Engelbertz Kindly service and a top Alstadt location (right off Hohestrasse, Cologne’s main shopping street, and 5 min. from the cathedral and train station) keep this modest, family-run hotel filled with repeat visitors. The large, comfortable rooms are decorated in a light, cheery, modern style and have bathrooms with tub or shower. Yes, it’s bit dated, but very well-run.
Obenmarspforten 1–3. 0221/2578994. www.hotel-engelbertz.de. 40 units. 80€–160€ double with breakfast. U-Bahn: Heumarkt. Amenities: Wi-Fi (1€/day).
Hotel Chelsea You wouldn’t guess from the simple entrance or lobby how well-designed the rooms are in this winner of a hotel. Spread out over five floors, guestrooms come in a wide array of sizes—from affordable rooms with shared bath (38€ for a single) to doubles, suites amd apartments with balconies or skylights—but all of them share the same design aesthetic, which provides a pleasing, comfortable, uncluttered environment with art on the walls, modern furniture and well-designed fixtures. Like many German hotels, this family-owned establishment is not completely smoke-free, so if you’re a non-smoker, be sure to specify that you want a non-smoking room. The staff here is unusually friendly and helpful. There’s a great on-site cafe. The hotel is in the so-called Belgian Quarter of Cologne, near the university, an easy 10-minute tram and/or U-Bahn ride from the main train station.
Jülicherstrasse 1. 0221/207150. www.hotel-chelsea.de. 35 units. 95€–145€ double. U-Bahn: Rudolfplatz. Amenities: Restaurant; bar, free Wi-Fi.
Hotel Krone Clean, simple, central—that’s what Hotel Krone has going for it. It’s a small, efficient, modern hotel in the heart of the Altstadt, close to the cathedral, the Rhine, and many museums and restaurants. The decor has not been updated, but it’s comfortable and completely serviceable. The plain-Jane rooms have usable desks and small bathrooms with tub/shower. Breakfast is included in your room rate.
Kleine Budengasse 15. 0221/92593150. www.hotel-krone-koeln.de. 95€–179€ double with breakfast. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Hopper Hotel St. Antonius This five-story hotel is about a 10-minute walk from Cologne’s train station, cathedral and Altstadt along the Rhine promenade. It’s modern, minimalist and, most importantly, comfortable. On that last point, many of the rooms here are larger than average and feature a calm, uncluttered look, with lovely hardwood floors, contemporary teakwood furniture, and state-of-the-art technology. Each has a compact, marble-clad bathrooms, most of them with showers only. A couple of rooms on the top floor have little balconies. The staff is professional and helpful, the breakfast is good (enjoy it in the courtyard when the weather’s nice). As in many German hotels, there’s no a/c here, so in hot weather you’ll need to open your window (request a courtyard-facing room if you want more quiet) and use the fan.
Dagobertstrasse 32. 0221/16600. www.hopper.de. 54 units. 145€–210€ double with breakfast. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Bar; free Wi-Fi.
Even if you don’t like beer, you’ll probably like Kölsch (pronounced koehlsch), a dry, delicious, top-fermented beer that’s brewed only in Cologne. Kölsch has an alcohol content of about 3 percent (most other types of German beer have an alcohol content ranging from 4 percent to 6 percent). If you go to any of the taverns in town, you can order a Kölsch from one of the blue-aproned waiters, called a Köbes. The waiters always serve the beer in a tall, thin glass, called a Stangen, which they bring you in a special carrier called a Kölschkranz. Expect to pay about 2€ for a small glass of Kölsch on tap.
Station Hostel for Backpackers Located next to the train station and Cologne cathedral, with all the main sights in Cologne just a few minutes’ walk away, this hostel has a better location that most hotels in Cologne, for a fraction of the cost. The rooms are comfortable if spare, with good beds and strong showers. The staff is friendly and helpful and there’s no curfew. Breakfast is available (you pay only for what you eat) and you can do your laundry—everything a backpacker wants.
Marzellenstrasse 44–56. 0221/9125301. www.hostel-cologne.de. 48€–55€double. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof/Dom. Amenities: Bar, free lockers, free Wi-Fi.
Although several highly rated restaurants have established themselves here in recent years, Cologne is not a city particularly known for its gourmet dining. Rather, it’s a place for conversation and drinking, generally over enormous portions of typical Rhineland fare in crowded restaurants that are gemütlich (cozy) rather than elegant.
To eat and drink as the Kölner do, visit one of the city’s old tavern-restaurants. Local dishes generally include Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese), Tatar (finely minced raw beef mixed with egg yolk, onions, and spices and served on bread or a roll), Kölsch Kaviar (smoked blood sausage served with raw onion rings), Matjesfilet mit grünen Bohnen (herring served with green butter beans and potatoes), Hämchen (cured pork knuckle cooked in vegetable broth), Himmel und Äd (apples and potatoes boiled and mashed together and served with fried blood sausage), and Speckpfannekuchen (pancakes fried in smoked bacon fat).
Brauhaus Pütz GERMAN/RHINELAND Pütz is a neighborhood brewery-restaurant in the Belgian Quarter, near the university. It’s a small, non-touristy place where locals come for a good meal and a glass of delicious Kölsch, and consequently it’s more “authentic” than the larger brewery-restaurants in the Altstadt, and less expensive. The food is all traditional Kölner fare: herring filets (in cream or freshly marinated) with fried or boiled parsley potatoes and onions; homemade goulasch with brown bread; Himmel und Üd (mashed potatoes and applesauce with blood sausage and fried onions); or Mettwurst, a smoked, mince pork sausage. The atmosphere is unfussy, with wooden tables and brick walls: very real and very good value.
Engelbertstrasse 67. 0221/211166. Main courses 9€–17€. Mon–Thurs noon–midnight; Fri–Sat noon–1am; Sun 4:30pm–11:30pm. U-Bahn: Rudolfplatz.
Brauhaus Sion GERMAN/RHINELAND If you want a traditional Bräuhaus where the beer is good, the wood paneling a little smoky with age, and the food portions inexpensive and generous, Sion is the place. The main courses are traditional and filling Rhineland fare, such as Riesenhämchen (boiled pigs’ knuckles) with sauerkraut, Bockwurst (sausage) with potato salad, or sauerbraten (pot- or oven-roasted marinated beef) with an almond-raisin sauce. The Bräuhaus also has a few rooms upstairs that it rents out; a double with bathroom and breakfast goes for 60€. Credit cards not taken.
Unter Taschenmacher 5. 0221/257-8540. Main courses 10€–16€. Daily 11am–11pm. U-Bahn: Heumarkt.
Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen GERMAN/FRENCH This popular and cozy wine restaurant (and hotel, see “Cologne Hotels”) opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine, just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral. Although the wine is the main reason for coming here (the local Rhine wines are that special), you won’t be disappointed with the food. You can’t go wrong with simple, local favorites like grilled pork chops with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes or sauerbraten with potato dumplings. There are always daily specials to choose from.
Fischmarkt 1–3 (Am Rheinufer). 0221/2727777. Main courses 10€–28€. Tues–Thurs 6–10:30pm; Fri–Sun noon–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm. Closed Dec 22–Jan 10. Tram: Heumarkt.
Früh am Dom GERMAN/RHINELAND This big, busy Bräuhaus near the cathedral is the best all-around spot for atmosphere, economy, and hearty portions. You can eat in the upstairs or downstairs dining rooms (upstairs, on the ground floor, is better), with a different German specialty offered every day of the week. (A menu in English is available.) A favorite dish is Hämchen, a Cologne specialty of smoked pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and potato purée. Other specialties include Sauerkrautsuppe (sauerkraut soup) and Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings). Früh-Kölsch, the tavern’s beer on tap, has a 1,000-year-old brewing tradition. In summer, this tavern also has a beer garden. Sorry, credit cards not accepted.
Am Hof 12–18. 0221/26130. www.frueh.de. Main courses 10€–20€. Daily 8am–midnight. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Sünner im Walfisch GERMAN/RHINELAND Set back from the Rhine in the Altstadt, this 17th-century step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered façade is a good choice for atmospheric dining—especially if you are interested in trying the traditional dishes of Cologne. How about Himmel und Äd (fried blood sausages with fried onions, mashed potatoes and apple sauce), the Sudhausteller (grilled pork knuckles in brown beer sauce, cabbage and fried potatoes), or Rhenish sauerbraten (braised pork with raisin sauce and potato dumplings)? There are vegetarian dishes as well. No credit cards accepted.
Salzgasse 13. 0221/2577879. www.walfisch.net. Reservations required. Main courses 14€–22€. Mon–Thurs 5pm–midnight; Fri 3pm–midnight; Sat–Sun 11am–midnight. U-Bahn: Heumarkt.
Cologne cathedral and all the major museums are found in the Altstadt. After a day of sightseeing, round off your visit with a stroll along the Rhine promenade in Deutz. Note: Museums in Cologne are generally closed on Monday.
Dom (Cathedral) CHURCH This enormous and enormously remarkable structure is the star of Cologne, the city celebrity with top billing. Considering how much time passed during the construction of this gigantic edifice, the largest cathedral in Germany and all of northern Europe, it’s a wonder that the Gothic facade is so stylistically coherent. More than 600 years elapsed from the laying of the cornerstone in 1248 to the placement of the last finial on the south tower in 1880. Upon completion, Cologne cathedral was the tallest building in the world, its twin filigreed spires rising to a height of 157m (515 ft.). Overwhelming is the simplest way to describe it—as you’ll discover when you step inside.
The cathedral was built to enshrine holy relics—in this case, relics of the Three Kings or Magi—which had been stolen from a church in Milan by Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. These relics, which drew pilgrims to Cologne throughout the Middle Ages, are still housed in the Dreikönigschrein (Shrine of the Three Magi), a glass case at the end of the cathedral choir. The giant reliquary is a masterpiece of goldsmith work dating from the end of the 12th century. The choir, which can be visited only on guided tours, was consecrated in 1322 and contains original, richly carved oak stalls, screen paintings, and a series of statues made in the cathedral workshop between 1270 and 1290. The famous Three Kings windows in the clerestory were installed in the early 14th century. In addition to some magnificent Renaissance-era stained-glass windows in the north aisle, and German artist Gerhard Richter’s darkly shimmering stained-glass windows in the south transept, installed in 2007, the cathedral has only two other conspicuous treasures. The Gero Cross, hanging in a chapel on the north side of the choir, is a rare monumental sculpture carved in Cologne in the late 10th century and reputedly the oldest large-scale crucifix in the Western world. On the south side of the choir is Stephan Lochner’s altarpiece, “Adoration of the Magi” (c.1445). The painting is a masterpiece of the Cologne school—Italian in format, Flemish in the precision of its execution.
The cathedral’s Schatzkammer (Treasury) is rather disappointing, and you aren’t missing much if you skip it. If, on the other hand, you’re in reasonably good shape, climb the 509 stairs of the 14th-century south tower (entry through the Portal of St. Peter) for an inspiring view of the city and the Rhine. The cathedral is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Domkloster. 0221/9258-4730. www.koelner-dom.de. Admission to cathedral free; treasury and tower combined 5€ adults, 2.50€) children and students; tower 2€ adults, 1€ children and students; tour 7€ adults, 5€ students and children. Daily 6am–7:30pm.; tower 9am–5pm; treasury 10am–6pm. English-language tours Mon–Sat 11am, 12:30, 2, 3:30pm and Sun 2, 3:30pm. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof/Dom.
Käthe Kollwitz Museum MUSEUM This museum is devoted to the works of Berlin-born Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945), Germany’s most celebrated female artist of the 20th century. The works displayed here reveal Kollwitz’s deep emphathy with suffering caused by war, hunger and political upheaval, evoking universal emotions, both tender and disturbing. The collection includes drawings, sketches, and sculpture.
Neu-Markt 18–24. 0221/2272363. www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 4€ adults, 2€ seniors and students. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun 11am–6pm.
Kölner Seilbahn (Cologne Cable Car) ACTIVITY/VIEW For the best panoramic view of the the city of Cologne, take a ride on the first and only cable-car system in Europe designed to span a major river. In operation since 1957, the enclosed gondolas cross the river beside the Zoobrücke (Zoo Bridge) between the Rheinpark in Deutz and the zoo. You get a great view of the massive cathedral and the river traffic along the Rhine. The trip takes about 15 minutes each way.
Riehler Strasse 180. 0221/547-4184. www.koelner-seilbahn.de. Mar 15–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Round-trip ticket 6.50€ adults, 3.70€ students and children. U-Bahn: Zoo/Flora.
Cologne has a dozen important Romanesque churches, all within the medieval city walls. During the Middle Ages, these churches were important destinations for the pilgrims who flocked to “Holy Cologne” to venerate relics of the Three Kings and various Christian martyrs. Devastated during World War II, all 12 of the churches were later restored, often with interior changes, and together they represent the rich architectural legacy of early medieval Cologne. If you have the time, and an interest in architectural history, Cologne’s Romanesque churches are worth seeking out. Keep in mind, however, that not all of them are open daily, or open only for a limited period.
The 12th-century church of St. Ursula, Ursulaplatz (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), the patron saint of Cologne, is on the site of a Roman graveyard. Legend has it that St. Ursula was martyred here with her 11,000 virgin companions in about 451. The story inspired countless medieval paintings and sculptures, and drew pilgrims in droves. The shrine room of St. Ursula (2€ admission) is a rather remarkable combination of medieval sculpted wooden busts in niches with upper walls and ceiling decorated with bones.
St. Panteleon, Am Pantaleonsberg 2 (U-Bahn: Poststrasse), built in 980, has the oldest cloister arcades remaining in Germany. Elliptically shaped and twin-towered St. Gereon, Gereonsdriesch 2–4 (U-Bahn: Christophstrasse), contains the tomb of St. Gereon and other martyrs, with 11th-century mosaics in the crypt. St. Severin, Severinstrasse 1 (U-Bahn: Severinstrasse), originated as a 4th-century memorial chapel; the present church dates from the 13th to the 15th centuries. St. Maria im Kapitol, Kasinostrasse 6 (U-Bahn: Heumarkt), on the site where Plectrudis, the wife of Pippin, built a church in the early 8th century, has a cloverleaf choir modeled on that of the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. St. Aposteln, Neumarkt 30 (U-Bahn: Neumarkt), and Gross St. Martin, on the Rhine in the Altstadt (U-Bahn: Heumarkt), also have the cloverleaf choir design. St. Georg, Am Waidmarkt (U-Bahn: Poststrasse), the only remaining Romanesque pillared basilica in the Rhineland, contains an impressive forked crucifix from the early 14th century. Cäcilienkirche (St. Cecilia’s Church), Cäcilienstrasse 29 (U-Bahn: Neumarkt), is the site of the Schnütgen Museum (see above). St. Andreas, near the cathedral (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), contains a wealth of late-Romanesque architectural sculpture. The remaining two Romanesque churches are on the Rhine: St. Kunibert, Kunibertskloster 2 (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), and St. Maria Lyskirchen, Am Lyskirchen 12 (U-Bahn: Heumarkt), both of 13th-century origin.
Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) MUSEUM The treasures on display in this museum include furniture, home decor, and crafts from the Middle Ages to the present day. The Art Nouveau room is particularly impressive. On the ground floor and mezzanine, the exhibits, exclusively from the 20th century, include rooms and furniture by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, German architect Mies van der Rohe, and the American designer Charles Eames, among others. Give yourself about an hour to see everything.
An der Rechtsschule. 0221/23860. www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 6€ adults, 3.50€ children 6–12. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Museum Ludwig MUSEUM Dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art, Museum Ludwig opened in 1986 in a choice location right behind the cathedral. Exhibits represent nearly every major artist and art movement of the 20th century, and the collection includes one of the world’s largest collections of Picasso paintings, ceramics, and works on paper. The Agfa-Foto-Historama, a museum within the museum, is devoted to the history of photography. Give yourself at least an hour, more if you love modern art.
Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. 0221/22126165. www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 10€ adults, 7€ seniors and students. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Dom/Hauptbahnhof.
Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) MUSEUM Cologne’s history, and the fabric of the city today, is inextricably bound with the history of Rome. The museum was built around the magnificent Dionysius mosaic, produced in a Rhineland workshop in the 3rd century and discovered in 1941 by workers digging an air-raid shelter. Towering over the mosaic, which extols the joys of good living (something the Kölner are still good at), is the tomb of Lucius Poblicius, constructed around A.D. 40 for a Roman officer; it is the largest antique tomb ever found north of the Alps.
The museum’s exhibits explore themes in the ldaily lives of the ancient Romans in Cologne: religious life, trade and industry, the cult of the dead, and so on. The museum covers the period that extends from the Stone Age to the period of Charlemagne (9th c.). On the second floor, you can see a superlative collection of Roman glassware and a world-renowned collection of Roman jewelry. On the lowest level, devoted to the daily life of the Romans, there’s an ancient black-and-white mosaic floor covered with swastikas. Centuries before the symbol became ominously identified with the atrocities of the Third Reich, the swastika—probably Indian in origin—was a symbol of good luck and happiness, and was known in Latin as the crux gamata. You need at least an hour to browse through the entire museum.
Roncalliplatz 4. 0221/22124438. www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 7€ adults, 3.50€ seniors and students. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Schnütgen Museum MUSEUM The medieval period in Cologne, starting in the 12th century and lasting into the 16th, saw a blossoming of art and architecture that was nothing short of amazing. This was the period when construction of the massive cathedral was begun and when the city’s 12 Romanesque churches were built. Cologne was a major pilgrimage site, and art—nearly always sacred in nature—flourished with superb woodcarvers, stonecarvers, stained-glass makers, and painters. This is the art that you will see in the strangely undervisited Schnütgen Museum, housed in a rather forbidding looking modern building that incorporates the graceful Romanesque church of St. Cäcilien (St. Cecilia, patron saint of music) within its walls. A must for anyone interested in Cologne’s medieval artistic heritage, the museum houses a small, splendid sampling of sacred art from the early Middle Ages to the baroque. The surprisingly expressive sculptures and images in stained glass will give you an idea of the artistic blessings bestowed upon “Holy Cologne.” Outside, around the back, a skeleton has been spray-painted on the walled-in western portal of the church. Called simply “Tod” (Death), this oddly engaging work is by the Zurich graffiti artist Harald Nägele.
Cäcilienstrasse 29. 0221/22122310. www.museenkoeln.de. 6€ adults, 3.50€ seniors and students. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (Thurs until 8pm). U-Bahn: Neumarkt.
The money-saving KölnCard costs 9€ for 24 hours (18€ for 48 hr.) and enables you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network and get reduced-price entry to museums and other attractions. You can buy it at the tourist information center.
Wallraf-Richartz Museum MUSEUM The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is one of the country’s greatest repositories of art from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century. On the first floor, you find an outstanding collection of paintings by the medieval Cologne school (most done between 1330 and 1550). Many of the paintings and altarpieces depict legends from the lives of martyred saints who became identified with the “Holy Cologne” of the Middle Ages, St. Ursula in particular. The Renaissance section includes works by Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach. A memorable collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings holds pride of place on the second floor, including major works by Rubens and Rembrandt. In addition to important French and Spanish works, the museum boasts a rich collection of 19th-century paintings, with major pieces by the German Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich, Gustave Courbet, Edvard Munch, Auguste Renoir, and Vincent van Gogh, among scores of others. Give yourself about 2 hours if you want to browse through all the galleries.
Obenmarspforten. 0221/22121119. www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 12€ adults, 8€ seniors and students. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; Thurs until 10pm. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
The first Füssgänger (pedestrians-only) shopping zones in Germany originated in Cologne and present a seemingly endless and interconnected conglomeration of shops and shopping arcades.
Hohe Strasse, the main north-south street in Roman times, is now Cologne’s busiest commercial drag, jammed every day except Sunday with shoppers, musicians, organ grinders, snack shops, and fruit sellers. On Hohe Strasse and its surrounding streets, you find all the major international designer-clothing boutiques; stores selling silver, fine jewelry; and the big department stores. Schildergasse is where you find international men’s fashions, fine leather bags and purses, and French, German, and Italian designer shoes.
Filz Gnoss SPECIALTY SHOPPING One specialty shop worth knowing about is Filz Gnoss, a long-established family business that manufactures and sells all manner of personal and household accessories made out of felt. You’ll find comfortable and durable felt slippers, hats, bags, table runners, chair coverings and more.
Apostelnstrasse 21. 0221/257010. www.filz-gnoss.de. U-Bahn: Neumarkt.
One of Germany’s major cultural centers, Cologne offers a variety of performing arts and nightlife options. To find out what’s going on in the city, pick up a copy of Monats Vorschau at newsstands). You can purchase tickets at a venue’s box office (Kasse), at the Tourist Information Office, or at Köln MusikTicket, Roncalliplatz 4, next to the cathedral ( 0221/2801; www.koelnticket.de; U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).
Any kind of toilet water is now called “eau de Cologne,” or simply “cologne,” but Echt Kölnisch Wasser (real eau de Cologne) remains the official designation of origin for the distinctive toilet waters created in the city of Cologne. 4711 Haus, Glockengasse 4711 ( 0221/9250450; www.4711.com; U-Bahn: Neumarkt), sells the orange-and-lavender-scented water first developed in Cologne in 1709 by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina. The Mühlens family, another early producer of Kölnisch Wasser, also lived and worked in this house at no. 4711. The street number eventually became the trademark name for their product. You can buy 4711 cologne in all sizes and shapes, as soap, and even as premoistened towelettes.
Kölner Philharmonie (Philharmonic Hall) THE PERFORMING ARTS Completed in the late 1980s, and located behind and below the Roman-Germanic Museum, Cologne’s philarmonic hall is the home of two fine orchestras: the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra). The hall also presents pop and jazz programs.
Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. 0221/2801. www.koelner-philharmonie.de. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Oper Köln (Cologne Opera) THE PERFORMING ARTS The Rhineland’s leading opera house, designed by Wilhelm Riphahn and opened in 1957 after the original opera house was destroyed by Allied bombs, is underoing a major refurbishment that will keep it closed until 2015. Along with improving the acoustics and bringing the technical and stage infrastructure up to state-of-the-art standards, the project will renew the plaza and adjacent Schauspielhaus (Theater), all part of Riphahn’s postwar architectural ensemble. Until the house reopens, opera performances will be held at different venues around Cologne. The website provides complete performance and location details. Offenbachplatz. 0221/22128400. www.operkoeln.de.
E-Werk THE CLUB & MUSIC SCENE This dance club and concert hall housed in a former power plant has been going strong for years and shows no sign of letting up. Check the website to see what’s going on when and make it a point to visit if you want to experience Cologne’s hippest club vibe. Schanzenstrasse 28. 0221/9627910. www.e-werk-cologne.com. U-Bahn: Keupstrasse.
Klimperkasten LIVE MUSIC/BAR Also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon, this intimate jazz and piano bar has live music every night beginning around 8pm. Alter Markt 50–52. 0221/2582132. www.papajoes.de. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Loft THE CLUB & MUSIC SCENE International groups and solo artists perform most nights of the week at this music hub created in a musician’s apartment near the Cologne Messe. The website will give you details of who’s performing and opening hours. Wissmannstrasse 30. 0221/952155. www.loft-koeln.de. U-Bahn: Liebigstrasse.
Hotelux CAFE/BAR Pretending you’re in Russia is a whole lot easier than actually living there, and this bar-cafe-club perpetrates the fantasy with Soviet-style decor mixed with Russian food, vodka and beer. Von Sandt Platz 10. 0221/241136. www.hotelux.de. Tues–Sun from 8pm. U-Bahn: Deutz.
Boat Trips on the Rhine |
Cologne is a major embarkation point for Rhine cruises. Even if you don’t have time for a long Rhine cruise, you can enjoy a trip on the river aboard one of the many local boats. From late March through October, KD (Köln-Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt), Frankenwerft 15 ( 0221/208-8318; www.k-d.com), offers several boat tours of the Rhine from Cologne. The KD ticket booth and boarding point is right on the river, a short walk south from the cathedral. The 1-hour Panorama Rundfahrt tour is a pleasant way to see the stretch of Rhine immediately around Cologne—don’t particularly scenic, since the river hereabouts is pretty industrialized, but you will get a view of the Cologne skyline with its cathedral and church spires. The tour departs daily at 10:30am., noon, 2pm, 3:30pm, 5pm and 6p:30m. Prerecorded commentary in English plays on both of these sightseeing cruises.
Gloria GAY & LESBIAN BARS If you’re looking for a LGBT venue with food, drink and music, this long-established and straight-friendly cafe and concert stage should be at the top of your list. The cafe generally opens a couple of hours before the performances. Check out the website to find out what’s going on. Apostelnstrasse 11. 0221/660630. www.gloria-theater.com. U-Bahn: Neumarkt.
Cologne is ideally situated for exploring western Germany, an area that includes the famous wine-growing regions along the Rhine and Mosel valleys, the ancient city of Aachen, and the Mittelrhein, the most scenic stretch of the river.
Germany has many important rivers, but for 2,000 years the Rhine has served as the principle artery between southern and northern Europe. The mighty, myth-laden Rhine (spelled Rhein in German) originates in southeastern Switzerland, flows through the Bodensee (Lake Constance), and forms Germany’s southwestern boundary as it continues its 1,320km (820-mile) journey west, north, and northwest to the North Sea.
The most scenic section of the Rhine, with the legendary Loreley rock and many hilltop castles, is the Middle Rhine (Mittelrhein) between Koblenz and Rüdesheim. This stretch of the Rhinetal, or Rhine Gorge, with its vineyards, forests, and castle-topped crags, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can enjoy the sights along the Middle Rhine by taking a river cruise departing from Koblenz. Note: There are many ways to explore the Rhine by boat besides the itinerary listed here. If you want a longer Rhine cruise, you can travel from Cologne south to Bonn and all the way to Mainz. You’ll find seasonal timetables and itineraries at www.k-d.de.
GETTING THERE By Train & Boat To make the itinerary work as a day-trip from Cologne, you first need to take a train to Koblenz, about 85km (53 miles) southeast of Cologne (1 hr. by train). From Koblenz, a boat operated by KD ( 0221/20881; www.k-d.de) departs at 9am (Apr–Oct) and travels down the Rhine to Rüdesheim, one of the main Rhineside wine towns, arriving at 1:15pm. From Rüdesheim you can retirn to Koblemz by boat (departing 2:15pm or 4:15pm), or take a train all the way back to Cologne (about 2½ hr.). B sure to check current train (www.bahn.com) and boat schedules before you depart.
For over 2,000 years the Rhine has played a huge role in the history of Germany and Europe, serving as a means of transportation, communication and cultural exchange between the south and the north. From Koblenz south to Alsace, the Rhine Valley’s sheltered sunny slopes covered with vineyards almost makes it look like a northern extension of Italy. This part of the Rhineland but has been fundamentally formed by the culture of wine, as reflected in its economy, traditions, and festivals.
The excursion boat from Koblenz sails down this famous stretch of the Rhine, known as the Rheintal, or Rhine Gorge, passing the Rheingau winegrowing region (see “Day Trips from Frankfurt,” above) and stopping at riverside wine towns along the way. (You can also travel by boat up the Rhine, starting your trip in Mainz, Rüudesheim, or Bingen.) As you head south from Koblenz, highlights are:
The fortress of Marksburg, one of two surviving medieval fortifications on the Middle Rhine, towers above Braubach on the right (west) bank. Rhens, on the left (east) bank, is where the German Emperors were enthroned after being elected in Frankfurt and crowned in Aachen Cathedral. Oberspay and Niederspay, now incorporated into a single town, contain more timber-framed houses than anywhere on the Middle Rhine. Boppard, located below a horseshoe loop in the river, originated as a Roman way-station and was replaced in the 4th century by a military fort. Across the river on the right bank is St. Goarshausen, with its castle of Neu-Katzenelnbogen.
As you continue towards Oberwesel, the valley landscape begins to transition from soft clay-slate to hard sandstone, creating a series of narrows, the most famous of which is the Loreley, the most over-rated rock formation in the world. This stretch of river was once hazardous for shipping and inspired legends of the Lorelei, a golden-haired beauty who sat on the rocks combing her hair and was so entrancing that she lured sailors to their deaths. This area is also reputed to be the place where the fabulous treasure of the Niebelungs lies hidden. Looking at the Loreley today, you may scratch your head and wonder what all the fuss was about.
Oberwesel, on the river’s left bank, has preserved a number of fine early houses, as well as two Gothic churches, the medieval Schönburg castle, and its medieval town wall. Kaub and its environs contain a number of monuments, among them the Pfalzgrafenstein castle, the town wall of Kaub itself, and the terraced vineyards, created in the Middle Ages. Bacharach, at the entrance of the Steeger valley, contains many timber-framed houses and retains its medieval appearance.
Just before the 5km (3-mile) long Bingen Pforte (Bingen Gate), a section of the river widened in the 19th and 20th centuries, there are two small wine towns. Bingen on the left bank and Rüdesheim on the right (the excursion boat stops at both). Rüdesheim is dominated by the 12th-century Brömserberg fortress. The vineyards of the Rüdesheimer Berg (mountain) are among the best in the Rheingau.
Although the excursion boat continues on to Mainz, Rüdesheim is a good place to disembark and have a stroll before heading back to Cologne. With its old courtyards and winding alleyways lined with half-timbered houses, Rüdesheim is the quintessential Rheingau wine town. The vineyards around the village date back to the Roman times and produce a full-bodied Riesling and Sekt (sparkling wine). Rüdesheim is also the scene of the annual August wine festival, when the old taverns on narrow Drosselgasse (Thrush Lane) are crowded with visitors from all over the world. Drosselgasse has been called “the smallest but the happiest street in the world.”
The Rheingauer Weinmuseum, Rheinstrasse 2 ( 06722/2348; www.rheingauer-weinmuseum.de), in Bromserburg Castle, traces the history of the grape and has an exhibition of wine presses, glasses, goblets, and drinking utensils from Roman times to the present. Admission is 5€ for adults, 3€ for children, with an extra charge for wine tastings. The museum is open mid-March to October daily 10am to 6pm.
Located next to their own vineyards, Gasthof Krancher, Eibinger-Oberstrasse 4 ( 06722/2762; www.gasthof-krancher.de), is a homey guesthouse that serves regional German food, mostly Rhinelander specialties.
The beautifully carved 17th-century facade of Hotel und Weinhaus Felsenkeller, Oberstrasse 39–41 ( 06722/94250; www.ruedesheim-rhein.co), suggest the traditional ambience you’ll find within. Sample Rhine wine in a room with vaulted ceilings and murals or, if the weather is nice, enjoy regional Rhineland cuisine on the terrace. The hotel-restaurant is closed from November to Easter.
Winding through the steep slopes of the Eifel and Hunsruck hills in the German state of Rheinland-Palatinate, the Mosel Valley follows the course of the Mosel River for more than 60km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz, where the Mosel’s waters flow into the Rhine. The valley encompasses thousands of acres of vineyards, a full 10 percent of the national total. The beautiful scenery, fine wine, Roman ruins, medieval castles, and riverside towns with cobble streets and half-timbered houses make the Mosel Valley a prime area for exploration. As with the previous Rhine itinerary, this day trip begins in Koblenz, where the Rhine and the Mosel rivers converge.
GETTING THERE By Train & Boat If you’re headquartering in Cologne and want to enjoy a boat cruise down the Mosel River, the easiest way is to take a train to Koblenz, about 85km (53 miles) southeast of Cologne (1 hr. by train). From Koblenz, a boat operated by KD ( 0221/20881; www.k-d.de) sails down the Mosel to Cochem, 51km (32 miles) southwest of Koblenz. From Koblenz, boats depart (May–Oct) at 9:45am, arriving in Cochem at 3pm A return boat departs Cochem at 3:40pm, arriving in Koblenz at 8pm. Check current train (www.bahn.com) and boat schedules online before you go.
Cochem, about halfway down the Mosel River from Koblenz. is a medieval riverside town surrounded by vineyards, and a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. For information on events in the town, stop in at the tourist information office, Endertplatz 1 ( 0267/60040; May–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm, Sun 10am–noon), or visit www.cochem.de.
If you’re driving through the Mosel Valley, Cochem is your best choice for an overnight stopover between Koblenz and Trier. You can also reach Cochem by train from either of those cities.
Cochem’s biggest attraction, and the most photographed sight along the Mosel River, is Reichsburg Cochem ( 02671/255; open daily mid-Mar through Nov 9am–5pm; 4.50€ adults, 2.50€ students and children), a restored 11th-century castle at the top of the hill behind the town.
Both a hotel and a wine restaurant, Alte Thorschenke, Brückenstrasse 3, 56812 Cochem ( 02671/7059; 84€–105€ double w/breakfast), is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. The half-timbered structure, originally built in 1332, added a modern wing and became a35-room hotel in 1960.
Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week), celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair, begins the first week of June. The similar Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. From late November through December 21, Cochem dresses itself up for the Weihnachtsfest (Christmas Festival) that features a daily Christmas market.
For a fine meal, drive to Enterttal, 1.6km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem, and dine at Weissmühle im Enterttal, Endertstrasse 1 ( 02671/8955; main courses 15€–25€; daily noon–2pm and 6–9pm). Try the trademark dish of fresh trout stuffed with herbs, baked, and kept warm at your table with a hot stone.
The ancient Imperial City of Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) is inseparably connected with the Emperor Charlemagne (748–814), who in 800 was crowned Emperor in Rome and became the first emperor of western Europe since the demise of the Roman Empire. Charlemagne selected this spot at the frontier where Germany, Belgium, and the Netherlands meet as the center of his vast Frankish empire. Visitors come to visit Charlemagne’s cathedral, where subsequent Holy Roman emperors were crowned, the Altstadt with its impressive Rathaus, and to relax in the hot spring baths that have been used since Roman times.
GETTING THERE By Train The trip from Cologne to Aachen’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) takes only 45 minutes; trains depart frequently throughout the day. For schedules and train information, call 01805/996633 or visit www.bahn.com.
VISITOR INFORMATION For a map and general information on the town, stop in at the Tourist Office Aachen on Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz ( 0241/1802960; www.aachen.de). Office hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 9am to 2pm. From April to December the tourist office is also open on Sunday 10am to 2pm.
GETTING AROUND From the train station, it’s a 15-minute walk to the cathedral precincts. Or take a bus from in front of the station; tickets are 1.90€.
Elisenbrunnen CAFE/GERMAN A long-established institution, this cafe-restaurant just behind the Elisenbrunnen is a great spot to relax with coffee, pastry or a light meal—especially if the weather’s nice and you can sit outside on the terrace overlooking the garden. Inside, it’s casual and a bit on the well-heeled side. Enjoy fresh salads, soups, baked potatoes with various toppings, or heartier Rhineland fare.
Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz 14. 0241/94313490. www.eb-aachen.de. Main courses 5€–15€. Daily 9:30am–11pm.
Magellan TURKISH/MEDITERRANEAN A large, casual, family-friendly restaurant-cafe-bar built next to the old city walls near the Rathaus, Magellan offers an all-purpose menu of Turkish mezes, Italian pizzas and pastas, grills and fresh salads. The food is good and the prices moderate. There’s an outdoor terrace where you can sit in nice weather. Magellan is on the so-called “Student Mile” where there are many clubs and bars, and later in the evening it becomes more of a bar scene.
Pontstrasse 78. 0241/4016440. www.magellan-ac.de. Main courses 7.50€–12€. Daily 10am–1am.
Aachen is famous for its Printen, a cake-like cookie (Lebkuchen) made with honey and spices and frosted with white or dark chocolate. A bag of Printen makes a great gift…if there are any left by the time you get home. Printen Bäackerie Klein, Münsterplatz 15 (www.printen.de; daily 10am–5pm), is conveniently located right outside the cathedral and sells this delicious sweet local treat in a variety of sizes and containers.
Ratskeller GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Solid, tasty food served in a historic setting: That’s the appeal of the Ratskeller, though you have two choices on how to dine here. The actual Ratskeller beneath the Rathaus is more formal and expensive (so good for a special occasion). Today, it boasts an attractive, contemporary look with white masonry walls, columns, a black granite floor, and formal table settlings. But many choose the charming Postwagen, a two-story timbered structure attached to the side of the building, that’s cramped and cozy, with creaking floors and simple wooden booths and tables. You’ll eat well at both. On the Ratskeller menu, Chef Maurice de Boer has upped the ante and focuses on international-style gourmet cooking using fresh local ingredients (foie gras and Canadian lobster, main courses of braised veal cheeks and cutlets, Scottish beef, and fish.) Choices in the Postwagen are more traditionally Rhenish and include sausage salad, Himmel und Äd (blood sausage with mashed potatoes and apples), and sauerbraten.
Markt 40, Am Markt (in the Rathaus). 0241/35001. www.ratskeller-aachen.de. Reservations required in Ratskeller. Ratskeller main courses 21€–27€; fixed-price menus 40€–50€. Postwagen main courses 11€–21€. Ratskeller daily noon–3pm and 6–10pm. Postwagen daily 11am–10pm.
Aachen’s Altstadt (Old Town), the area you want to explore, is surrounded by a ring road. Tthe Hauptbahnhof is on the southern part of the ring. From Bahnhofplatz in front of the station, walk north on Bahnhofstrasse to Theaterstrasse, and turn left, or northwest. This will bring you to the giant Theater Aachen, a postwar reconstruction of the city’s original 1825 theater, opera and concert hall. From here, head northwest to Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz, where you’ll find the tourist office and the Elisenbrunnen, a colonnaded neoclassical building that sits atop Aachen’s famous thermal springs. The sulphury-smelling water spills out into shallow pools behind the building, where you’ll find the Elisengarten, a landscaped garden area where recent archaeological excavations of Aachen’s Roman and medieval past are on view in a glass-walled pavilion. You’ll see the spires of the Dom (Cathedral) to your northwest. Just north of the cathedral is Marktplatz (Market Square), the main square in Aachen’s Altstadt, and the site of the Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall). The Carolus Thermen, the city’s thermal bath and pool complex (open to the public), is northeast of the Altstadt, just beyond the ring road, in the The Stadtgarten (City Park).
Dom (Cathedral) CHURCH Between A.D. 792 and 805, as part of his now vanished palace, Emperor Charlemagne built what’s called the Palatine Chapel, or the Octagon. This eight-sided, two-tiered, domed structure clad in multi-colored marbles is the first part of the cathedral that you enter, and the oldest. Consecrated by the Pope in 805, it was the first large church building to be constructed in western Europe since the demise of the Roman Empire. Stylistically it’s an amalgamation of classical, Byzantine and pre-Romanesque architecture. Charlemagne’s throne, the simple stone Königsstuhl, one of the most venerable monuments in Germany, is on the chapel’s second level and can only be seen on a guided tour.
The soaring Gothic style, imported from France, was used when the cathedral’s choir was constructed some 600 years later. Visitors aren’t allowed to enter this section, which contains ttwo treasures: Charlemagne reliquary, an ornate gold box created in 1215 for the emperor’s remains, and the gold pulpit of Henry II (ca. 1014), decorated with antique bowls, ivory carvings, chess figures and reliefs of the evangelists.
From 936 to 1531, when the ceremony moved to Frankfurt cathedral, the Holy Roman emperors were crowned in Aachen’s cathedral.
The newly redone cathedral treasury is worth visiting to see the famous silver and gilt bust of Charlemagne and the golden reliquaries associated with him and other venerated figures.
Klosterplatz 2. 0241/47709127. www.aachendom.de. Cathedral free; treasury and guided tours 5€ adults, 4€ seniors and students. Cathedral daily 7am–7pm (Jan–Mar until 6pm). Treasury Mon 10am–1pm; Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.
Rathaus (Town Hall) LANDMARK/ARCHITECTURAL SITE Some 500 years after Charlemagne’s death in 814, the Aachen Rathaus was built on the site of the emperor’s ruined palace. Part of the ancient palace structure can still be seen in the so-called Granus Tower at the east side of the hall. After a fire in 1656, the fadade of the building was redone in the baroque style and decorated with stucco statues of 50 German rulers, 31 of whom had been crowned in Aachen. Standing in relief in the center are the “Majestas Domini,” the two most important men of their time in the Holy Roman Empire, Charlemagne and Pope Leo III. (The building was restored after suffering serious damage during World War II.) Inside, on the second floor, you can visit the Coronation Hall where coronation banquets took place from 1349 to 1531, when the coronation site was moved to Frankfurt. The hall contains a 17th-century life-size statue of Charlemagne, reproductions of the imperial crown jewels (originals are in Vienna) and the Charlemagne frescoes, painted in the 19th century by Alfred Rethel, illustrating the victory of the Christian Franks over the Germanic heathens.
Am Markt. 0241/4327310. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ students and children. Daily 10am–6pm.
In late 2014 a new city museum will open in Aachen. The Center Charlemagne, Katschhof ( 0241/4324919; www.aachen.de; 5€ adults, 3€ students/children; Tues–Sun 10am–6pm), located between the cathedral and Rathaus, presents a historical overview of Aachen and is the starting point of a designated “Route Charlemagne” that links all the significant buildings and museums in Aachen.
Carolus Thermen SPA If you have the time, this is a fun and relaxing way to spend a couple of hours in Aachen. For over 2,000 years, the warm mineral waters that flow from thermal springs below the town have been used for health and relaxation. This bath complex in the Stadtgarten features outdoor and indoor pools, water features, a sauna area, spa treatments and restaurants. Lockers and towels are included with your admission.
Stadtgarten, Passstrasse 79. 0241/182740. www.carolus-thermen.de. Admission (up to 2½ hr.) 11€–12€ without sauna, 22€–24€ with sauna. Daily 9am–11pm.
From April through December, 90-minute guided tours of Aachen’s Altstadt are offered in English every Saturday at 11am, departing from the Tourist Information office at the Elisenbrunnen; cost is 8€.
Couven Museum MUSEUM Home decor of the upper middle classes from the rococo to the Biedermeyer eras is displayed in period rooms in this lovely house in the Altstadt.
Hühnermarkt 17. 0241/4324421. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ students/children. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.
Suermondt Ludwig Museum MUSEUM The museum displays an impressive collection of medieval German sculpture, 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings, and.modern works from the 1920s and 1930s.
Wilhelmstrasse 18. 0241/479800. www.suermondt-ludwig-museum.de. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ students and children. Tues–Fri noon–6pm (Fri until 8pm); Sat–Sun 11am–6pm.
