Jeolla
Highlights
Hyangiram A tiny hermitage hanging onto cliffs south of Yeosu, and the best place in the country in which to see in the New Year.
Mokpo This characterful seaside city is the best jumping-off point for excursions to the emerald isles of the West Sea.
Naejangsan The circular mountain ridge within this national park looks stunning in autumn, and is the best place in the land to enjoy the season.
Byeonsanbando Look out across the sea from the peaks of this peninsular national park, then descend to the coast at low tide to see some terrific cliff formations.
Jeonju’s hanok village There are all sorts of traditional sights and activities to pursue in this wonderful area of hanok housing.
Food Jeollanese cuisine offers the best ingredients and more side dishes, and is best exemplified by Jeonju’s take on bibimbap.
Tapsa This cute temple, nestling in between the “horse-ear” peaks of Maisan Provincial Park, is surrounded by gravity-defying towers of hand-stacked rock.
If you’re after top-notch food, craggy coastlines, vistas of undulating green fields, and islands on which no foreigner has ever set foot, go no further. Jeju Island has its rock formations and palm trees, and Gangwon-do pulls in nature-lovers by the truckload, but it’s the Jeolla provinces (
) where you’ll find the essence of Korea at its most potent – a somewhat ironic contention since the Jeollanese have long played the role of the renegade. Here, the national inferiority complex that many foreigners diagnose in the Korean psyche is compounded by a regional one: this is the most put-upon part of a much put-upon country. Although the differences between Jeolla and the rest of the country are being diluted daily, they’re still strong enough to help make it the most distinctive and absorbing part of the mainland.
The Korean coast dissolves into thousands of islands, the majority of which lie sprinkled like confetti in Jeollanese waters. Some such as Hongdo and Geomundo are popular holiday resorts, while others lie in wave-smashed obscurity, their inhabitants hauling their living from the sea and preserving a lifestyle little changed in decades. The few foreign visitors who make it this far find that the best way to enjoy the area is to pick a ferry at random, and simply go with the flow.
In addition, Jeollanese cuisine is the envy of the nation – pride of place on the regional menu goes to Jeonju bibimbap, a local take on one of Korea’s favourite dishes. Jeolla’s culinary reputation arises from its status as one of Korea’s main food-producing areas, with shimmering emerald rice paddies vying for space in and around the national parks. The Jeollanese people themselves are also pretty special – fiercely proud of their homeland, with a devotion born from decades of social and economic repression. Speaking a dialect sometimes incomprehensible to other Koreans, they revel in their outsider status, and make a credible claim to be the friendliest people in the country.
Most of the islands trace a protective arc around Jeonnam (
), a province whose name translates as “South Jeolla”. On the map, this region bears a strong resemblance to Greece, and the similarities don’t end there; the region is littered with ports and a constellation of islands, their surrounding waters bursting with seafood. Low-rise buildings snake up from the shores to the hills, and some towns are seemingly populated entirely with salty old pensioners. Yeosu and Mokpo are relatively small, unhurried cities exuding a worn, brackish charm, while further inland is the region’s capital and largest city, Gwangju, a young, trendy metropolis with a reputation for art and political activism.
The same can be said for likeable Jeonju, capital of Jeonbuk (
; “North Jeolla”) province to the north and one of the most inviting cities in the land; its hanok district of traditional buildings is a particular highlight. Green and gorgeous, Jeonbuk is also home to four excellent national parks, where most of the province’s visitors head; in addition, the arresting “horse-ear” mountains of Maisan Provincial Park accentuate the appeal of Tapsa, a glorious temple that sits in between its distinctive twin peaks.
Jeolla’s gripe with the rest of the country is largely political. Despite its status as the birthplace of the Joseon dynasty that ruled Korea from 1392 until its annexation by the Japanese in 1910, most of the country’s leaders since independence in 1945 have hailed from the southeastern Gyeongsang provinces. Seeking to undermine their Jeollanese opposition, the central government deliberately withheld funding for the region, leaving its cities in relative decay while the country as a whole reaped the benefits of the “economic miracle”. Political discord reached its nadir in 1980, when the city of Gwangju was the unfortunate location of a massacre which left hundreds of civilians dead. National democratic reform was gradually fostered in the following years, culminating in the election of Jeolla native and eventual Nobel Peace Prize laureate Kim Dae-jung. Kim attempted to claw his home province’s living standards up to scratch with a series of big-money projects, notably in the form of highway connections to the rest of the country once so conspicuous by their absence. Despite these advances, with the exception of Gwangju and Jeonju, Jeolla’s urban centres are still among the poorest places in Korea.
Charming in an offbeat way, YEOSU (
) is by far the most appealing city on Jeonnam’s south coast. Ferries once sailed from here to Jeju, but though these have been discontinued there’s more than enough here to eat up a whole day of sightseeing. It’s beautifully set in a ring of emerald islands, so the wonderful views over the South Sea alone would justify a trip down the narrow peninsula. Though parts of the coast remain rugged and pristine, the area around Yeosu has been heavily industrialized, especially the gigantic factory district to the city’s north, and consequently many of Yeosu’s few foreign visitors are here on business. However, in 2012 Yeosu plays host to an international Expo, an event that could put the city firmly, and deservedly, back on the tourist map.
Despite Yeosu’s sprawling size, many of its most interesting sights are just about within walking distance of each other in and around the city centre. These include Odongdo, a bamboo-and-pine island popular with families, and a replica of Admiral Yi’s famed turtle ship. Beyond the city limits are the black-sand beach of Manseongni, and Hyangiram, a magical hermitage at the end of the Yeosu peninsula.
Admiral Yi, conqueror of the seas
“…it seems, in truth, no exaggeration to assert that from first to last he never made a mistake, for his work was so complete under each variety of circumstances as to defy criticism.”
Admiral George Alexander Ballard, The Influence of the Sea on the Political History of Japan
Were he not born during the Joseon dynasty, a period in which a nervous Korea largely shielded itself from the outside world, it is likely that Admiral Yi Sun-shin (
; 1545–98) would today be ranked alongside Napoleon and Horatio Nelson as one of the greatest generals of all time. A Korean national hero, you’ll see his face on the W100 coin, and statues of the great man dot the country’s shores. The two most pertinent are at Yeosu, where he was headquartered, and Tongyeong (then known as Chungmu), the site of his most famous victory.
Yi Sun-shin was both a beneficiary and a victim of circumstance. A year after his first major posting as Naval Commander of Jeolla in 1591, there began a six-year wave of Japanese invasions. Although the Nipponese were setting their sights on an eventual assault on China, Korea had the misfortune to be in the way and loyal to the Chinese emperor, and 150,000 troops laid siege to the country. Admiral Yi achieved a string of well-orchestrated victories, spearheaded by his famed turtle ships, vessels topped with iron spikes that were adept at navigating the island-dotted waters with ease.
Despite his triumphs, the admiral fell victim to a Japanese spy and the workings of the Korean political system. A double agent persuaded a high-ranking Korean General that the Japanese would attack in a suspiciously treacherous area; seeing through the plan, Admiral Yi refused the General’s orders, and as a result was stripped of his duties and sent to Seoul for torture. His successor, Won Gyeun, was far less successful, and within months had been killed by the Japanese after managing to lose the whole Korean fleet, bar twelve warships. Yi was hastily reinstated, and after hunting down the remaining ships managed to repel a Japanese armada ten times more numerous. Peppering the enemy’s vessels with cannonballs and flaming arrows, Yi waited for the tide to change and rammed the tightly packed enemy ships into one another. Heroic to the last, Yi was killed by a stray bullet as the Japanese retreated from what was to be the final battle of the war, apparently using his final gasps to insist that his death be kept secret until victory had been assured.
Arrival and information
The new airport lies around 20km to the north – take a bus from the city’s main bus terminal – and has flights to and from Seoul and Jeju Island. Buses and trains arriving into Yeosu squeeze down the narrow isthmus, which opens out as it hits the city; both stations are located frustratingly far from the action. A number of bus routes head into the centre from both, but you’ll barely pay any more in a taxi (W4000 or so).
The ferry terminal, on the other hand, is in an area bristling with shops and motels. This is Yeosu’s heart, with plenty of raw fish restaurants and markets, and many of the city’s best sights within walking distance. From around the ferry terminal you’ll see the triangular red masts of Dolsan Bridge, which connects the city to the island of Dolsando. For a city of Yeosu’s size, good travel information is hard to come by, with the only decent point being a small booth near the entrance to Odongdo.
Accommodation
You’ll find motels near all of Yeosu’s main travel junctions, but due to the out-of-the-way location of the bus terminal and the seedy environs of the train station it’s best to head to the ferry area. Do note that foreigners are regularly quoted inflated prices here – but haggle hard, hunt around, and you should be able to find a room for W30,000 or less. Those aiming even lower on the price scale – or just in need of a good wash after spending time on the Jeonnam coast – should head to the jjimjilbang on the shore near Admiral Yi’s turtle ship, on the way to Hyangiram, which offers excellent sea views from some of its pool rooms. Lastly, a few new top-end options should have opened up by the time Expo 2012 kicks off.
Daia Motel 
Gyodong 
061/663-3347. Near the ferry terminal, this motel is just down the road from the Midojang, but the rooms are slightly plusher, and the prices accordingly higher. 
Golden Park Hotel Sujeondong 
061/665-400. Poky ondol rooms make this more of a motel than a hotel, though it’s a good option on the entrance road to Odongdo, and is also within walking distance of the train station. 
Midojang 
Gyodong. This downtown motel, within a few minutes’ walk of the ferry terminal, has perfectly acceptable rooms with private facilities. The owners offer slight discounts to foreigners. 
Mobeom Yeoinsuk 
Ferry terminal area 
061/663-4897. Just one of a clutch of yeoinsuk in a pleasantly brackish area opposite the ferry terminal, this is a friendly, family-run place with dirt-cheap rooms. 
Yeosu Beach Hotel Chungmudong 
061/663-2011. Yeosu’s best hotel has cosy rooms with great showers, and is just a short walk from the main shopping area. A popular choice with Korean honeymooners (though less so since the ferries to Jeju stopped), it has a decent on-site restaurant and café, and offers airport pick-up. Ask about discounts off-season – usually around thirty percent. 
The City
For many visitors the real joys of Yeosu can be found wandering around the city’s many fish markets. However, the centre is home to a cache of interesting, unassuming sights. In the very centre of town, and just ten minutes’ walk northeast of the ferry terminal, is Jinnamgwan (
), a pavilion once used as a guesthouse by the Korean navy. The site had previously been a command post of national hero Admiral Yi, but a guesthouse was built here in 1599, a year after his death, and replaced by the current structure in 1718. At 54m long and 14m high it’s the country’s largest single-storey wooden structure. In front of the guesthouse is a stone man – initially one of a group of seven – that was used as a decoy in the 1592–98 Japanese invasions. Just below the pavilion is a small museum (Tues–Sun 9am–6pm; free) detailing the area’s maritime fisticuffs.
A statue of Admiral Yi stands to the east of the city centre, on a hill overlooking the small island of Odongdo (
; daily 9am–6pm; W1600). Essentially a botanical garden, it’s crisscrossed by a deliciously scented network of pine- and bamboo-lined paths, and has become a popular picnicking destination for local families. A 700m-long causeway connects it to the mainland, and if you don’t feel like walking you can hop on the bus – resembling a train – for a small fee. The island’s paths snake up to a lighthouse, the view from which gives a far clearer rendition of Yeosu’s surroundings than can be had from Jinnamgwan in the city centre. In the summer, kids love to cool off in the fountain by the docks on the northern shore – the water show comes on every twenty minutes or so. A number of boat tours operate from Odongdo – operators are unlikely to speak English, so these are best arranged through the tourist information centre outside the main entrance; routes include cruises across the harbour to Dolsan Bridge, and a longer haul to Hyangiram and back. At the time of writing, the island was off-limits thanks to construction work on the new Expo 2012 site. This is set to feature all sorts of futuristic pavilions, as well as a digital gallery and a “Sky Tower”; see 
www.expo2012.or.kr for more information.
To the south and across Dolsan Bridge is a replica of Admiral Yi’s turtle ship (daily 8am–6pm; W1200), a small, rounded vessel with a wooden dragon head at the front. Such boats spearheaded the battles against the Japanese in the sixteenth century, and were so-called because they were tough to attack from the top, due to the iron roof covered with spiked metal. Inside the replica is a modern-day regiment of mannequins; the exterior is decidedly more interesting.
Eating and drinking
Yeosu’s restaurants are surprisingly poor by Jeolla standards. If you’re feeling brave, and have a decent command of Korean seafood menus, you will find that the canalside fish market north of the ferry terminal has a wealth of choice, as does Raw Fish Town – a parade of restaurants near Admiral Yi’s turtle ship. Prices at the latter aren’t cheap, and establishments cater for groups rather than solo travellers – large spreads are the order of the day (figure on paying W30,000 or more for a meal). Alternatively there’s Hemingway (
), near Dolsan Bridge, which serves passable steak and pork cutlet dishes with splendid views back over the city. The shopping area has a lot of grimy Korean fast food dens but Sinpo Woori Mandoo (
) stands out, and has an English-language picture menu to boot.
The downtown area is quiet even on weekend evenings, although on a warm night it’s hard to beat a bottle of beer or makkeolli on the harbour front – take your pick from a number of convenience stores. For a night out you’re much better off heading to the new area west of the centre called Hakdong (
), though it’s over half an hour away by bus, and expensive to reach by taxi. Here, the expat-friendly bars Elle Lui and Lost Shepherd Girl (also known as LSG) continue to get good reviews.
Manseongni
Around 4km north up the coast from Yeosu’s train station, you’ll find minbak and raw fish restaurants aplenty at Manseongni (
), which is revered as the only black sand beach on the Korean mainland – in truth, this volcanic material is actually rather grey in appearance. Mid-April is said to be the time of year when the beach “opens its eyes”, and people flock to bury themselves in the allegedly nutritious sand, an experience somewhat akin to being a cigarette butt for the day. Other sights of note lie on the mess of islands south of Yeosu.
Dadohae Haesang National Park
South of the city centre, the mainland soon melts into a host of islands, many of which lie under the protective umbrella of Dadohae Haesang National Park (
). Many can be accessed from Yeosu’s ferry terminal, and as with Jeolla’s other island archipelagos, these are best explored with no set plan. Dolsando (
), connected to the mainland by road, is the most visited and most famed for Hyangiram, a hermitage dangling over the crashing seas. Further south are Geumodo (
), a rural island fringed by rugged cliffs and rock faces, and Geomundo (
), far from Yeosu – and briefly occupied by Britain during the 1880s, during an ill-planned stab at colonizing Korea’s southern coast – but now an increasingly popular holiday destination. From Geomundo you can take a tour boat around the assorted spires of rock that make up Baekdo (
), a protected archipelago containing a number of impressive formations.
Clinging to the cliffs at the southeastern end of Dolsando is the magical hermitage of Hyangiram (
; daily pre-dawn to 8pm; W2000), an eastward-facing favourite of sunrise seekers and a popular place to ring in the New Year. Behind Hyangiram is a collection of angular boulders which – according to local monks – resembles an oriental folding screen, and is soaked with camellia blossom in the spring. To get to Hyangiram, take a local bus from Yeosu’s city centre – #111 also runs directly from the train station and Odongdo. Although the trip can take around an hour, on a bumpy, winding course, the journey costs just W1000. Outside the hermitage is a small town of motels and restaurants – Hwangtobang (
061/644-4353; 
), near the entrance, offers both of these as well as a café, though other motels have better sea views.
Yeosu to Mokpo
The large coastal cities of Yeosu and Mokpo are connected by road, though in the summer it’s possible to travel between them by ferry – a beautiful journey that jets passengers past whole teams of islands. Travelling overland, you’ll pass Jogyesan, a provincial park home to two gorgeous temples; the tea plantation at Boseong; and the bald crags of Wolchulsan National Park, just outside Mokpo. Also in the Mokpo area are a couple of charming islands – Jindo, famed for its indigenous breed of dog, and Wando, home to a curious “miracle”.
Jogyesan Provincial Park
The small but pretty JOGYESAN PROVINCIAL PARK is flanked by two splendid temples, Seonamsa and Songgwangsa. If you get up early enough, it’s possible to see both temples in a single day, taking either the hiking trail that runs between them or one of the buses that heads the long way around the park. The park and its temples are accessible by bus from SUNCHEON (
), an otherwise uninteresting city that’s easy to get to by bus, and occasionally train, from elsewhere in the area.
Practicalities
The simplest way to get to the park is on one of the tour buses that leave from outside Suncheon’s train station every day at 9.50am. As well as Seonamsa temple, tours take in a film set on which historical dramas are regularly shot, and the interesting Nagan folk village, set within authentic Jeoson fortress walls and a pleasingly rural place to stay. On weekends, another tour bus leaves at 9.40am, though it goes to Songgwangsa temple, rather than Seonamsa.
To get to the park on public transport, take bus #1 from central Suncheon to Seonamsa, or #111 to Songgwangsa. Both buses take an hour or so, and if moving between the two you’ll save a lot of time by transferring at Seopyeong-maeul, a small village near Seonamsa, where the bus routes split. Also note that there are occasional buses to Songgwangsa from Gwangju. The paucity of buses to the park means that you may have to overnight in Suncheon; if so, head for the district of Yeonhyangdong (
), which has plenty of motels and restaurants.
There are also low-key accommodation and restaurant facilities at both entrances to the park; minbak offer the most authentic Korean experience, but for a little more comfort try Saejogyesan-jang (
; 
061/751-9200; 
) outside the Seonamsa entrance. The restaurants outside Songgwangsa are in traditionally styled buildings; Suncheon Sikdang (
) deserves a mention, if only for the charming way in which its name has been spelled out in Korean. As in many Korean rural areas, sanchae bibimbap (
) is a favoured dish, and is made with local ingredients.
Seonamsa
Seonamsa (
), on the park’s eastern side, is the closer temple of the two to Suncheon. On the way in from the ticket booth you’ll pass Seungsongyo, an old rock bridge; its semicircular lower arch makes a full disc when reflected in the river below: slide down to the water to get the best view. There has been a temple here since 861 – the dawn of the Unified Silla period – but having fallen victim to fire several times, the present buildings are considerably more modern. The temple is apparently too poor to afford a full-scale refurbishment, but provides a pleasant visit as a result, despite the fact that a couple of the once-meditative ponds have been carelessly lined with concrete. Its entrance gate is ageing gracefully, though the dragon heads are a more recent addition – the original smaller, stealthier-looking ones can be found in the small museum inside. Notably, the temple eschews the usual four heavenly guardians at the entrance, relying instead on the surrounding mountains for protection, which look especially imposing on a rainy day. The main hall in the central courtyard is also unconventional, with its blocked central entrance symbolically allowing only Buddhist knowledge through, and not even accessible to high-ranking monks – this is said to represent the egalitarian principles of the temple. The hall was apparently built without nails, and at the back contains a long coffin-like box which holds a large picture of the Buddha that was once unfurled during times of drought, to bring rain to the crops. A smaller version of this picture hangs over the box. Around the complex are a number of small paths, one leading to a pair of majestic stone turtles; the one on the right-hand side is crowned by an almost Moorish clutch of twisting dragons. Another path fires west across the park to Songgwangsa, a four-hour walk, more if you scale Janggunbong (885m), the main peak, on the way.
To the west of the park is Songgwangsa (
), viewed by Koreans as one of the most important temples in the country, and is one of the “Three Jewels” of Korean Buddhism – the others are Tongdosa and Haeinsa. Large, well maintained and often full of devotees, it may disappoint those who’ve already appreciated the earthier delights of Seonamsa. The temple is accessed on a peculiar bridge-cum-pavilion, beyond which can be found the four guardians that were conspicuously absent at Seonamsa. Within the complex is Seungbojeon, a hall filled with 1250 individually sculpted figurines, the painstaking attention to detail echoed in the paintwork of the main hall; colourful and highly intricate patterns spread like a rash down the pillars, surrounding a trio of Buddha statues representing the past, present and future. Unfortunately, the Hall of National Teachers is closed to the public – perhaps to protect its gold-fringed ceiling.
The town of BOSEONG (
) is famed for the tea plantations that surround it; visitors flock here during warmer months to take pictures of the thousands of tea trees that line the slopes. They may not be as busy or as verdant as those in Sri Lanka or Laos, for example, but they’re still a magnificent sight, particularly when sepia-tinged on early summer evenings. Pluckers comb the well-manicured rows at all times of year, though spring is the main harvest season, and if you’re lucky you may be able to see the day’s take being processed in the on-site factory. Green tea (
; nok-cha) rode the crest of the “healthy living” wave that swept the country in the early 2000s, and here you can imbibe the leaf in more ways than you could ever have imagined. A couple of on-site restaurants serve up green tea chicken cutlet, green tea bibimbap and green tea with seafood on rice, as well as a variety of dishes featuring pork from pigs raised on a green tea diet. There’s also a café serving nok-cha ice cream and snacks – if you’ve never tried a nok-cha latte, you’ll never get a better opportunity (though, admittedly, it’s on sale at pretty much every café up to the North Korean border).
Daehan Dawon (
; daily: summer 5am–8pm; winter 8am–6pm; W1600) is the main plantation; to get here on public transport you’ll first need to head to Boseong itself. From there, head coastward on one of the half-hourly buses to Yulpo, and get off at the tea plantation – let the driver know where you’re going. Further up the same road are a few less-visited plantations that can be entered for free, one of which stretches down to a cute village by the water’s edge.
A short bus-ride east of Mokpo, WOLCHULSAN NATIONAL PARK (
) is the smallest of Korea’s national parks and one of its least visited – the lack of historic temples and its difficult access are a blessing in disguise. Set within the achingly gorgeous Jeollanese countryside, Wolchulsan’s jumble of mazy rocks rises to more than 800m above sea level, casting jagged shadows over the rice paddies.
Just five buses a day make the fifteen-minute trip to the main entrance at Cheonhwangsaji from the small town of Yeong-am; alternatively, it’s an affordable taxi ride, or an easy walk. Yeong-am itself is well connected to Mokpo and Yeosu by bus. From here a short but steep hiking trail heads up to Cheonhwangbong (809m), the park’s main peak; along the way, you’ll have to traverse the “Cloud Bridge”, a steel structure slung between two peaks – not for vertigo sufferers. Views from here, or the peak itself, are magnificent, and with an early enough start it’s possible to make the tough hike to Dogapsa (
), an uninteresting temple on the other side of the park, while heeding the “no shamanism” warning signs along the way. There’s no public transport to or from the temple, but a forty-minute walk south – all downhill – will bring you to Gurim (
), a small village outside the park, on the main road between Mokpo and Yeong-am. A couple of kilometres south of Gurim is the Yeongam Pottery Centre (daily 9am–6pm; free). Due to the properties of the local soil, this whole area was Korea’s main ceramics hub throughout the Three Kingdoms period, and local artisans enjoyed trade with similarly minded folk in China and Japan. Sadly, the centre is as dull as the clay itself, though the on-site shop is good for souvenirs; you may get a chance to throw your own pot for a small fee, and there’s a decidedly brutalist sculpture outside the main entrance which would look at home in Pyongyang (were it not for the South Korean flag). The downhill walk from Gurim to the centre is much more interesting – the town remains an important base for pottery production, and accordingly many of its houses have eschewed modern-day metals for beautiful, traditional tiled roofs. There are few concessions to modern life here.
Wando
Dangling off Korea’s southwestern tip is a motley bunch of more than a hundred islands. The hub of this group and the most popular is WANDO (
), owing to its connections to the mainland by bus and Jeju Island by sea. Wando also has plenty of diversions in its own right – a journey away from Wando-eup (
), the main town, will give you a glimpse of Jeolla’s pleasing rural underbelly. Regular buses run from here to Gugyedeung (
), a small, rocky beach in the coastal village of Jeongdo-ri, and to Cheonghaejin (
), a stone park looking over a tiny islet which, despite its unassuming pastoral mix of farms and mud walls, was once important enough to send trade ships to China.
Accommodation
In Wando-eup itself, most of the action is centred around the bus station, but the area around the main ferry terminal makes a quieter and more pleasant place to stay; Naju Yeoinsuk (
; 
) has the cheapest rooms around, while Hilltop Motel (
) just behind it is for those who prefer to sleep on a bed rather than ondol flooring. Overlooking the sea between the two terminals is the pale yellow Dubai Motel (
061/553-0688; 
), whose rooms are excellent value.
Eating
There’s a fish market next to the ferry terminal, and plenty of restaurants serving both raw and cooked food. For something other than seafood, head a short way along the coast to Jjajjaru (
), a Chinese restaurant offering huge two-person courses that could feed three or four.
Islands around Wando
Heading further afield, you’ll be spoilt for choice, with even the tiniest inhabited islands served by ferry from Wando-eup. Maps of the islands are available from the ferry terminal, where almost all services depart, with a few leaving from Je-il Mudu pier, a short walk to the north.
At the time of writing, Cheongsando (
) was the island most visited by local tourists, mainly due to the fact that it was the scene of Spring Waltz, a popular drama series. Naturally spring is the busiest time of year here – and quite beautiful, with the island’s fields bursting with flowers. More beautiful is pine-clad Bogildo (
), a well-kept secret accessible via a ferry terminal on the west of Wando island – free hourly shuttle-buses make the pretty twenty-minute journey from the bus terminal in Wando-eup. In the centre of tadpole-shaped Bogildo is a lake whose craggy tail, stretching east, has a couple of popular beaches.
Jindo
As the coast curls northwest towards Mokpo, the bewildering array of islands shows no sign of letting up. JINDO (
), one of the most popular, is connected to the Korean mainland by road, but every year in early March the tides retreat to create a 3km-long land-bridge to a speck of land off the island’s eastern shore, a phenomenon that Koreans often compare to Moses’ parting of the Red Sea – this concept holds considerable appeal in an increasingly Christian country, and “Moses’ Miracle” persuades Koreans to don wellies and dash across in their tens of thousands. For the best dates to see this ask at any tourist board in the area, or call the national information line on 
1330. Visible throughout the year is the secluded temple of Ssanggyesa (
), which is best accessed by hourly bus (W1000) or taxi (W7000 from the bus terminal); if you’re choosing the latter option, arrange a pick-up time with your driver, or at least hang onto his business card.
Jindu is also famed for the Jindo-gae, a white breed of dog with a distinctive curved tail; unique to the island, this species has been officially classified as National Natural Treasure #53. The mutts can be seen in their pens at a research centre – fifteen minutes’ walk from the bus terminal – which occasionally hosts short and unappealing dog shows, as well as a canine beauty pageant each autumn.
The island is accessible from Mokpo by both bus and ferry, with free shuttle buses from the terminal to the relevant stretch of coast during the annual parting of the seas.
The Korean peninsula has thousands of islands on its fringes, but the seas around the coastal city of MOKPO (
) have by far the most concentrated number. Though many of these are merely bluffs of barnacled rock poking out above the West Sea (also known as the Yellow Sea), dozens are accessible by ferry from Mokpo; beautiful in an ugly kind of way, this curious city gives the impression that it would happily be an island if it could.
Korea’s southwestern train line ends quite visibly in Mokpo city centre. The highway from the centre of the country does likewise with less fuss, but was not completed until fairly recently. For much of the 1970s and 1980s, public funding also ran out before it hit southern Jeolla – poor transport connections to the rest of the country are just one example of the way this area was neglected by the central government. For much of this time, the main opposition party was based in Mokpo, and funding was deliberately cut in an attempt to marginalize the city, which was once among the most populous and powerful in the land. Though the balance is now being addressed with a series of large projects, much of the city is still run-down, and Mokpo is probably the poorest urban centre in the country. Some Koreans say that taxi drivers are a good indicator of the wealth of the cities, and here cabbies have a habit of beeping at pedestrians in the hope that they want a lift, occasionally swinging around for a second go. Things are changing, however, especially in the new district of Hadang, which was built on land reclaimed from the sea, but it’ll be a while before Mokpo’s saline charms are eroded.
Mokpo is not the easiest Korean city in which to get your bearings. The most logical way to arrive is by train, as the main station is right next to a busy shopping area in the centre of the city; buses terminate some way to the north, just W5000 by taxi to the centre, to which several city bus routes also head (15min; W900). The most useful of these is #1, which passes both the bus and the train stations on its way to the huge new ferry terminal on the city’s southern shore, a lavishly funded structure standing incongruously in an area of apparent decay, and as such one of the most telling symbols of modern Mokpo. There are services to and from many islands in the West Sea, as well as Jeju Island, and occasionally Yeosu.
Although things should improve as the city grows, tourist information has never been one of Mokpo’s strong points; there’s a near-useless booth in the train station, and a small info-hut outside the Natural History museum.
Formula 1 comes to Mokpo
In 2010, the Formula 1 circus finally came to Korea, with the inaugural Grand Prix taking place at a brand-new track just east of Mokpo. The first hosting of this event was fraught with problems: the track was only given its safety certificate days before the race, spectator enclosures were hastily put together, and there were only three acceptable hotels in the whole of Mokpo. Most fans, and even some VIPs, were forced to stay at love hotels – one BBC journalist returned to her room to find that it had been used in her absence (a used contraceptive on the floor providing the evidence).
Race day itself was also memorable for the wrong reasons. Traffic jams resulting from poor access to the track meant that thousands of spectators arrived late – and in some cases, not at all. Rain didn’t help matters, with the newly built track stubbornly refusing to drain; concerns about driver safety led to the race being delayed for over an hour, and at one point the embarrassing possibility of cancelling the event entirely was raised. In the end, the clouds parted, and after several notable drivers had spun off the slippery track Spanish driver Fernando Alonso emerged victorious.
Some, inevitably, questioned the wisdom of hosting the Korean Grand Prix in this out-of-the-way corner of the country – the simple truth was that Jeonnam province had made the most generous offer to the F1 powers. Despite these inauspicious beginnings, F1 is likely here to stay, and the lessons learned by local authorities will eventually make Mokpo one of the more comfortable stops on the motor racing calendar.
Accommodation
Despite the city’s newfound wealth, there are few options at the top end of the accommodation range. Numerous places are springing up in Hadang (
), however, a modern new zone on reclaimed land east of the centre that may become the best place to stay. Further down the price scale, there are dozens of fairly decent motels around the bus terminal, and an older collection of yeogwan by the train station. Fans of jjimjilbangs could head for the brand-new one five minutes’ walk north of the bus terminal, on the same main road.
Baekje Hotel 
Sangnakdong 
061/245-0080. The only official hotel in the train station area, though in reality it’s just a motel with a couple of twin rooms. Prices are reasonable, however, and it’s less seedy than neighbouring motels. 
Daemyeongjang Yeogwan 
Opposite train station 
061/244-2576. This yeogwan is usually the cheapest around the train station, often offering discounts for single travellers. The rooms are fine (and cockroach-free, unlike some neighbouring yeogwan), and many have a TV, a/c and private bathroom. 
Daeyang Park Motel 
Chukbokdong 
061/243-4540. One of the better options in this area, its stairwells and some corridors lit up with ultraviolet lights, stars and planets. After this NASA-friendly introduction the rooms are almost disappointingly plain – clean, with big TVs, internet-ready computers and free toiletries. 
Shangria Beach Hotel Hadang 
061/285-0100. Large hotel by the water in the new Hadang district, a taxi ride east of central Mokpo. Rooms are large and well kitted out, and though the prices can be a little high (off-season discounts notwithstanding) it’s Mokpo’s only decent option in this price range. 
Shinan Beach Hotel Seongsandong 
061/243-3399. Cut off from the city centre by the mountains and with views of the sea, this was for decades Mokpo’s only tourist hotel. Nowadays its stylings feel more than a little dated, and continued neglect may well kill it off before long. 
Yudalsan and around
Mokpo is a city of dubious charms that the short-term visitor may be unable to appreciate. Its main draw lies outside the city with the mind-boggling number of islands accessible by ferry. Many of these are visible from the peaks of Yudalsan (
; daily 8am–6pm; W700), a small hill-park within walking distance of the city centre and train station. It’s a popular place, with troupes of hikers stomping their way up a maze of trails, past manicured gardens and a sculpture park, towards Ildeung-bawi, the park’s main peak. After the slog to the top – a twenty-minute climb of 228m – you’ll be rewarded with a spectacular view: a sea filled to the horizon with a swarm of emerald islands, some large enough to be inhabited, others just specks of rock. Similar views can be had from Yudalsan’s second-highest peak, Ideung-bawi, just along the ridge past a large, precariously balanced boulder.
Between the peaks, a trail runs west to a small beach. The water is not suitable for swimming, but hour-long ferry cruises run regularly to nearby islands from outside the nearby Shinan Beach Hotel. These tours offer delightful views of the islands that surround Mokpo, but bear in mind that the regular ferry routes from the city’s main terminal are cheaper, longer, and offer a greater opportunity to observe island life.
The museum district
A handful of museums lie to the east of the centre, accessible on bus #111, but better approached by taxi. The most popular of this modern collective is the Maritime Museum (
; Tues–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat & Sun 9am–7pm; W600), whose prime exhibits are the remains of a ship sunk near Wando in the eleventh century – the oldest such find in the country. Preserved from looting by its sunken location, celadon bowls and other relics scavenged from the vessel are on display, alongside a mock-up of how the ship may have once looked. Across the road is the large, breezy and modern Pottery Museum (
; same times; free), which contains almost nothing of interest. Along the road, and marginally more compelling, is the Natural History Museum (
; same times; W3000), home to an artily arranged butterfly exhibit, as well as a collection of dinosaur skeletons that is sure to perk up any sleepy youngster. Accessible on the same ticket, the building next door contains rather more highbrow sights, including calligraphy and paintings from Sochi, a famed nineteenth-century artist from the local area. Sochi was a protégé of Chusa, one of the country’s most revered calligraphers. More works from this talented duo and their contemporaries are on display, as are modern works by Oh Sung-oo, a Korean impressionist who painted modern takes of oriental clichés.
Eating, drinking and nightlife
You can’t walk for five minutes in downtown Mokpo without passing a dozen restaurants serving cheap, delicious food. The area west of the train station is packed with all kinds of options, from cheap-as-chips snack bars to swanky galbi dens – note, though that the museum area has next to no places to eat. For a caffeine fix or a green tea latte, there are stacks of cafés both in Hadang and the train station area; the best in the latter is Café Manon on the access road to Yudalsan, a friendly escape filled with old turntables, gramophones and the like.
Hadang is the best place to head for a night out. On one particularly alcohol-fuelled street, Wa Bar and the New York Bar fight it out for the expat dollar, with the latter putting on a dance party every last Friday of the month. Alternatively, ask at one of the many convenience stores for a bottle of Mokpo makkeolli, a delicious local version of the drink.
Restaurants
Unless otherwise stated, the establishments listed here are in and around Mokpo’s main shopping quarter, which lies between Yudalsan and the train station.
Chungmu Gimbap 
Downtown. This small chain serves up cheap but passable versions of the dish it’s named after – spicy octopus with gimchi and laver-rolled rice, a speciality of Tongyeong in Gyeongsang province – plus the regular chain dishes.
Laura Cheuk-hudong. Just down the road from Café Manon, this well-designed restaurant serves Korean versions of Western dishes at reasonable prices, including delicious smoked chicken.
Namupo 
Downtown. Head here for the juiciest galbi in town, right in the city centre to boot. There’s a variety of meat styles on the illustrated, English-language menu, though the dish of choice is the aromatic Namupo galbi.
Napoli Jukgyudong. Steaks and seafood fried rice are among the dishes on offer at this two-storey restaurant on the waterfront near Yudal Beach, on the western side of Yudalsan. Sadly, the pretty sea views aren’t always matched by the dishes.
Raw Fish Town The main road opposite the ferry terminal is alive with raw fish outlets. English-language menus are nonexistent, but a simple solution is at hand – the fish are still alive outside each restaurant in glass tanks, so just point at what you want and agree a price. Alternatively, go for a mixed sashimi platter (
; modeum-hoe), which will work out at about W20,000 per head.
Looking west from Mokpo’s Yudalsan peaks, you’ll find a sea filled to the horizon with an assortment of islands – there are up to three thousand off Jeolla, and though many of these are merely bumps of rock that yo-yo in and out of the surf with the tide, hundreds are large enough to support fishing communities. The quantity is so vast, indeed, that it’s easier to trailblaze here than in some less-developed Asian countries – many of the islands’ inhabitants have never seen a foreigner, and it’s hard to find a more quintessentially Korean experience.
Much of the area is under the umbrella of Dadohae Haesang National Park, which stretches offshore from Mokpo to Yeosu. The two most popular islands in the park are Hongdo, which rises steeply from the West Sea, and neighbouring Heuksando, a miniature archipelago of more than a hundred islets of rock. Further down the coast are Jindo, which owes its popularity to the local tide’s annual parting of the sea, and Wando, connected to the mainland by road, but surrounded by an island constellation of its own.
All of the following islands are accessible from the ferry terminal in central Mokpo; service at the tourist information office here is hit-and-miss, but at the very least you’ll be able to pick up a map of the islands (the one named “Shinan Travel” was best at the time of writing) and an up-to-date ferry schedule.
Around Mokpo
The key to enjoying the islands around Mokpo is to kick back like the locals and do your own thing – just pick up a map, select an island at random, and make your way there; if you stop somewhere nice along the way, stay there instead. The islanders are among the friendliest people in Korea – some travellers have found themselves stuck on an island with no restaurants or accommodation, only to be taken in by a local family. These islands are not cut out for tourism and possess very few facilities, particularly in terms of banking – so be sure to take along enough money for your stay. It’s also a good idea to bring a bike and/or hiking boots, as the natural surroundings mean that you’re bound to be spending a lot of time outdoors.
One of the most pleasing ferry circuits connects come of Mokpo’s closest island neighbours – a round-trip will take around two hours, and there are several ferries per day. The only island that sees any tourists whatsoever is Oedaldo (
), which has a decent range of accommodation and restaurants. Only a few kilometres from the mainland, though hidden by other islands, little Dallido (
; home to just 104 families) offers some of the best walking opportunities. Beyond these lie a pack of much larger islands, accessible on several ferry routes from Mokpo (Korean-only maps are available at the ferry terminal). Most of these will have beaches and hills to climb.
Hongdo and Heuksando
Lying on their own, well clear of the emerald constellations that surround Mokpo, and more than 100km west of the mainland, are this oddly matched pair of islands. Furthest-flung is Hongdo (
), whose slightly peculiar rock colouration gave rise to its name, which means “Red Island”. Those who make it this far are less likely to be interested in its pigment than its spectacular shape. Spanning around 6km from north to south, the island rises sheer from the waters of the West Sea to almost 380m above sea level, with valleys slicing through the deep expanses of dense forest as though pared by a gigantic knife. It may seem like a hikers’ paradise, but much of the island is protected, which means that most views of the rock formations will have to be from a boat. Tours (2hr 30min; W15,000) run from the tiny village where the ferry docks, one of only two on an island whose population barely exceeds five hundred; most trips go around the rocky spires of Goyerido (
), a beautiful formation poking out of the sea just north of Hongdo.
In contrast to Hongdo’s chunk of steep terrain, Heuksando (
) is a jagged collection of isles that’s fully open for hiking. There are some great trails, with the most westerly ones highly recommended at sunset, when Hongdo is thrown into silhouette on the West Sea; most people head to the 227m-high peak of Sangnabong. Ferries usually dock at Yeri, Heuksando’s main village, from where boat tours (2hr 30min; W15,000) of the dramatic coast are available, though some choose to hire a taxi (W60,000 for around 3hr) to see the island’s interior.
Practicalities
Both islands are accessed by ferry from the terminal in Mokpo, almost always on the same services; four daily services head to Heuksando (1hr 45min; W31,300), with two of these continuing on to Hongdo (2hr 15min; W38,300). Extra services are laid on in the height of summer, when thousands of tourists descend on the islands, and ferries are packed to the gills: it’s advisable to book tickets in advance through a tourist information office (even those in Seoul will be able to help). Both islands have collections of yeogwan (
), and if you’re coming during the summer holidays, you are advised to book your accommodation prior to arrival through the tourist offices in Mokpo or Gwangju.
Gwangju and around
The gleaming, busy face of “new Jeolla”, GWANGJU (
) is the region’s most populous city by far. Once a centre of political activism, and arguably remaining so today, it’s still associated, for most Koreans, with the brutal massacre that took place here in 1980. The event devastated the city but highlighted the faults of the then-government, thereby ushering in a more democratic era. Other than a cemetery for those who perished in the struggle, on the city outskirts, there’s little of note to see in Gwangju itself, except perhaps the shop-and-dine area in its centre. Largely pedestrianized, this is one of the busiest and best such zones in the country – not only the best place in which to sample Jeollanese cuisine but also a great spot to observe why Gwangjuites are deemed to be among the most fashionable folk on the peninsula. Also in this area is “Art Street”, a warren of studios and the figurehead of Gwangju’s dynamic art scene. Although most funding is now thrown at contemporary projects, the city’s rich artistic legacy stems in part from the work of Uijae, one of the country’s most famed twentieth-century painters and a worthy poet to boot. A museum dedicated to the great man sits on his former patch – a building and tea plantation on the slopes of Mudeungsan Park, which forms a natural eastern border to the city.
“At 10.30 in the morning about a thousand Special Forces troops were brought in. They repeated the same actions as the day before, beating, stabbing and mutilating unarmed civilians, including children, young girls and aged grandmothers... Several sources tell of soldiers stabbing or cutting off the breasts of naked girls; one murdered student was found disembowelled, another with an X carved in his back... And so it continues, horror piled upon horror.”
Simon Winchester, Korea
Away from the bustle of Gwangju, in what may at first appear to be a field of contorted tea trees, lie those who took part in a 1980 uprising against the government, an event which resulted in a brutal massacre of civilians. The number that died is still not known for sure, and was exaggerated by both parties involved at the time; the official line says just over two hundred, but some estimates put it at over two thousand. Comparisons with the Tiananmen massacre in China are inevitable, an event better known to the Western world despite what some historians argue may have been a similar death toll. While Beijing keeps a tight lid on its nasty secret, Koreans flock to Gwangju each May to pay tribute to those who died.
In an intricate web of corruption, apparent Communist plots and a presidential assassination, trouble had been brewing for some time before General Chun Doo-hwan staged a military coup in December 1979. Chun had been part of a team given the responsibility of investigating the assassination of President Kim Jae-kyu, but used the event as a springboard towards his own leadership of the country. On May 17, 1980, he declared martial law in order to quash student protests against his rule. Similar revolts had seen the back of a few previous Korean leaders (notably Syngman Rhee, the country’s first president); fearing the same fate, Chun authorized a ruthless show of force that left many dead. Reprisal demonstrations started up across the city; the MBC television station was burnt down, with protestors aggrieved at being portrayed as Communist hooligans by the state-run operator. Hundreds of thousands of civilians grouped together, mimicking the tactics of previous protests on Jeju Island by attacking and seizing weapons from police stations. With transport connections to the city blocked, the government were able to retreat and pool their resources for the inevitable crackdown. This came on May 27, when troops attacked by land and air, retaking the city in less than two hours. After having the protest leaders executed, General Chun resigned from the Army in August, stepping shortly afterwards into presidential office. His leadership, though further tainted by continued erosions of civil rights, oversaw an economic boom; an export-hungry world remained relatively quiet on the matter.
Also sentenced to death, though eventually spared, was Kim Dae-jung. An opposition leader and fierce critic of the goings-on, he was charged with inciting the revolt, and spent much of the decade under house arrest. Chun, after seeing out his term in 1987, passed the country’s leadership to his partner-in-crime during the massacre, Roh Tae-woo. Demonstrations soon whipped up once more, though in an unexpectedly conciliatory response, Roh chose to release many political prisoners, including Kim Dae-jung. The murky world of Korean politics gradually became more transparent, culminating in charges of corruption and treason being levelled at Chun and Roh. Both were pardoned in 1997 by Kim Dae-jung, about to be elected president himself, in what was generally regarded as a gesture intended to draw a line under the troubles.
Arrival
Despite the substantial funds thrown at it by the city government, Gwangju’s public transport network is poor for a Korean city. A brand-new subway line runs through the centre from east to west, but for some reason doesn’t connect with the train station or bus terminal (both of which are fairly central); this is particularly odd considering that the latter, a mall-style structure that serves both express and intercity buses, is also new. Getting from the bus terminal to other points in the city is tough – the area is full of traffic, and the bus stops on the busy main road outside are blocked by cars and taxis waiting for passengers. Those who wish to take a local bus often have to run out into the traffic – that’s if they manage to see their bus coming. Add to that a confusing series of bus numbers and you have a recipe for chaos. Alighting from the train station is far simpler and more convenient.
The airport, just over 6km west of the centre, is served by a couple of short-haul international services; this actually is a stop on the subway line, while a taxi to the centre should cost less than W10,000.
Orientation and information
Gwangju is far too unwieldy to be covered on foot so you’ll have to rely on the subway (W900 per ride), buses (W1000) or taxis to get around. The majority of the sights are on the city’s perimeter, and all are easily accessible on public transport. Most tourists base themselves around Geumnamno (
), the major downtown artery, near the May 18th Democratic Plaza in Gwangju’s main shopping district.
On the same road is a tourist information centre (daily 9am–6pm; 
062/226-1050), which sits almost directly opposite the homely Gwangju International Center, an excellent source of local information, with a selection of secondhand English language books and films. The centre puts on Korean-language classes for expats, and also stocks the excellent monthly Gwangju News – one of the best expat magazines in the country, it’s very useful for visitors, too.
Accommodation
Gwangju’s accommodation is relatively poor by the standards of major Korean cities, and hasn’t kept pace with the city’s other advances. There are a couple of decent options at the higher end of the price range, and motels can be found in groups around the train and bus stations, as well as the city centre. The bus station area isn’t a great option, as not only is it a convoluted walk from the station to the motels, but the establishments are even more brazenly “love”-based than elsewhere in the country – those around Geumnamno are far more appealing. There’s an excellent jjimjilbang (W8000 for a night) atop the Migliore department store.
Geumsujang Hotel 
Mudeungno 
062/525-2111. Quite possibly Korea’s cheapest “proper” tourist hotel, a ten-minute walk east of the train station. Rooms are surprisingly large and well appointed for the price, and the on-site restaurant serves gigantic traditional banquets. 
Kwang Ju Grand Hotel Bullodong 
062/224-6111. Though the rooms are large, they’re dated, and the whole hotel is in dire need of a refit. Facilities include a sauna, nightclub and restaurant, but rates are poor value, even with the free trip back to the 1970s thrown in. 
Hotel Palace Hwanggeumdong 
062/222-2525. Smallish, immaculate rooms in the centre of the city, and much better value than the more expensive hotels in the area. There’s a funky café on the ground floor, as well as free internet and sauna facilities, but it’s slightly hard to find in the middle of a bank of clubs and restaurants. 
Ramada Plaza Bullodong 
062/2717-7000, 
www.ramadagwangju.com. Gwangju’s top hotel by far, located in the Hadang “New Town” area, and walkable from Sangmu subway station. The whole complex is superbly designed – if the swish lobby doesn’t blow you away, then check out the stunning suites (particularly the “Spa Corner”). In addition, prices are very fair – the cheapest rooms often dip below W180,000. 
Sharp Motel Bullodong 
062/228-2929. Clean if slightly musty rooms, and half the price of the official tourist hotels in the area. There are free videos to rent, a surprisingly large proportion of which are not sexual in nature. 
On the art trail in Gwangju
Outside Seoul, Gwangju is by far Korea’s most artistically inclined city. Much of this can be ascribed to the fact that it’s the largest city in Jeolla, which during the 1970s and 1980s was a hotbed of political activism; the gruesome massacre of 1980 saw raw emotion splashed onto many a piece of canvas. Regional tensions have long since subsided, meaning that present-day Jeollanese have a little less to say, but it’s still worth taking a stroll through some of the city’s many galleries.
The best place to go hunting is a narrow road in the city centre, affectionately known as Art Street. This is a funky collection of shops and studios selling art materials and works by local artists. There are similar streets in other Korean cities, but this one is larger, much more accessible and forms an active part of the city’s life. Traditional art styles remain dominant but they’re complemented – and sometimes sent up – by a more contemporary set. A few arty cafés and restaurants can be found in or just off the road, though as this area is also Gwangju’s centre of after-school education, the discussions you’ll hear are more likely to be about pop than Picasso. Near the eastern end of Art Street is the contemporary Kunsthalle Gwangju gallery (
www.kunsthalle-gwangju.com), a regional offshoot of the facility in Seoul, and similarly fashioned entirely from shipping containers. It’s a temporary facility, filling the vacuum left by delays to the still-under-construction Asian Culture Complex, set for completion on an adjoining plot in 2014.
More traditional in nature is the work of Ho Baeknyon (1891–1977). Better known by his pen name Uijae, he was an important painter-poet-calligrapher, and in uniting those fine arts was likely one of the main catalysts behind Gwangju’s dynamic art scene. His old house and tea plantation, as well as a museum (Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; W1000) dedicated to his work, stand on the slopes of Mudeungsan (
), a pleasant park bordering Gwangju on its eastern side, and easily accessible by bus from the city centre (#49 from the train station, #09 from the bus station). The most interesting piece on show is a ten-picture folding screen, whose images are said to represent the world’s rainbow of personal characteristics: are you bamboo-, blossom- or orchid-like in temperament?
Lastly, those visiting in the autumn of even-numbered years will be able to attend the 
Gwangju Biennale (
gb.or.kr), the biggest and most important art festival in the land. Most of the action takes place at a huge dedicated hall north of the train station, and there’s so much to see that even a full day is unlikely to be enough.
The museum district
Apart from its art spaces, Gwangju’s only genuine tourist sights are the museums lying on the northern fringe of the city, around the Honam Expressway. The National Museum (
; Tues–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat & Sun to 7pm; free) is set in a typically oversized, quasi-traditional building, a grubby place despite its relative youth. The most interesting rooms are those devoted to Yuan-dynasty ceramics scavenged from a Chinese trading boat, sunk off the Jeolla coast in the fourteenth century on its way to Japan, which lay undiscovered until 1975. Yuan-dynasty artisans were renowned across East Asia for their celadon pottery, and many of the pieces on display can be traced to Jingdezhen, China’s most famous centre of ceramic production. Despite their centuries underwater, most pieces are in pretty good condition, a testament to the procedures of the time. Another section is devoted to items scavenged from a Korean wreck found nearby in 1983, though these pieces lack the gentle balance of their Middle Kingdom counterparts. Through a tunnel under the expressway is the less interesting Gwangju Folk Museum (same hours; W1000), a diorama-centric look at Jeollanese costumes and customs from as far back as the Three Kingdoms period. You can reach the museums on city buses #16, #19 and #26.
Eating and drinking
The Jeollanese pride themselves on their food, and as in other cities in the region, Gwangju cuisine is excellent. The areas around the bus terminal and train stations can be largely avoided; other than the Geumsujang, all the establishments listed here are downtown, near the May 18th Democratic Plaza. This area is also home to 
Speakeasy, the city’s main expat bar; this is an excellent place to meet people and hosts regular live music.
Cheongwon Momil 
Bullodong. Opposite the Migliore department store, this little restaurant has been serving cheap noodles since 1960, making it almost Jurassic in Korean terms. The spicy buckwheat noodles (bibim momil) are particularly good (W3500).
Deung Chon 
Chungjangno. In a side street behind the downtown tourist information centre, this is by far the most popular restaurant with Gwangju’s expats, in no small part thanks to the presence of English-speaking staff. Shabu-shabu is the dish of choice (W10,000 per person), though noodles and fried rice are available too.
Geumsujang 
Mudeungno. Gigantic banquet meals known as hanjeongsik are a Gwangju speciality, but places serving these traditional feasts tend to be hard to get to. This is the exception, located in the Geumsujang Hotel; W100,000 will buy a set meal for two that could easily feed three.
Minsokchon 
Honamdong. Twinned with Moojinjoo across the road, this meat restaurant serves delicious galbi in a pleasant atmosphere; perhaps most distinctive is the ddeok-galbi (
), a famous Gwangju dish made from minced meat that’s something like a barbecued burger.
Moojinjoo 
Bullodong. Set on several stylish levels, this adventurous restaurant is the most aesthetically pleasing in the city. Unfortunately the menu is full of strange dishes and in Korean only, so take a local with you to get the most out of it; recommended dishes are modeum bosam, pork slices with a variety of succulent vegetable side dishes, or yeongyang dolsotbap, an energy-giving rice dish.
Red Mango Chungjangno. This chain serving low-fat iced yoghurt rode the crest of the healthy living wave that swept across the country in recent times. Its star is fading a little now but with a variety of toppings to choose from you’re still in for a tasty snack.
Listings
Books The large bookshop in the bus terminal has a wide selection of English-language books and magazines, as well as an array of English-teaching materials.
Cinema The Migliore department store has a cinema with several screens.
Hospital Chonnam University hospital lies between the KT building and the river (
062/220-6902). For English-language medical information, dial 
119 from any public phone.
Post office There’s a post office in every district (usually Mon–Fri 9am–5pm). Those in the bus terminal and just west of the May 18th Democratic Plaza are most convenient for visitors.
Shopping Gwangju is awash with department stores, including Migliore in the downtown area, and Shinsaegae near the bus terminal. The funky shops of Clothes Street can also be found near Migliore.
Spectator sports Gwangju Sangmu is the only military football team in Korea’s top division, and plays at the World Cup Stadium to the south of the city. Players are sourced from men taking their two-year compulsory military service.
One of Gwangju’s most important sights, the May 18th National Cemetery (
5.18 
; daily 8am–5pm; free), lies in rolling countryside around forty minutes north of the city centre by bus. This is the resting place of those killed in the 1980 massacre; the thousands of participants who survived also have the right to be buried here. Though Gwangju has many sights related to this event, some even forming part of a rather macabre tour detailed in the official tourist literature, this is the least morbid and most factual. An overlarge oval of walkways and sculpture, the visitor centre is more of a testament to concrete than to the lives of the demonstrators, though it’s worth a visit for the photograph exhibition hall – there are some astonishing pictures on display, and the tension of the time is painfully palpable. Be warned that many are rather graphic, though the worst have mercifully been cordoned off into a section of their own. The cemetery itself is a badly signed five-minute walk away. To get here by bus, at the time of writing it was best to take #518 – but check before setting out.
Western Jeonbuk: the national parks
You’re spoilt for choice for national parks in the western half of Jeonbuk province – there are three, and each offers plenty of outdoor activities. Naejangsan lies closest to Jeonju, and is famed for its riot of colour in the autumn. Seonunsan, near the Jeonnam border, is Korea’s big draw for rock-climbers, while on the coast is Byeonsanbando, a rural peninsula park that’s also the scene of a controversial land reclamation project. Note that these parks are all to the south of the province; there’s also Deogyusan east of Jeonju.
NAEJANGSAN NATIONAL PARK (
) is one of Korea’s most popular parks, with its ring of peaks flaring up like a gas ring in the autumn. Maple trees are the stars of the show in this annual incandescence, with squads of elm, ash and hornbeam adding their hues to the mix. The many trails and peaks across the park keep hikers happy year-round, though most visitors head to the amphitheatre-shaped mountain circle in the northeast, where the nearby village has plenty of accommodation and places to eat. The area’s topography allows for two hiking routes: a short temple loop around the interior, and a far more punishing circuit around the almost circular ridge.
The temple route takes in three sights, and should take less than two hours. A pleasant, maple-lined path takes you from the entrance to Naejangsa, an unremarkable but pretty temple whose complex is dotted with informative English-language signs. Heading further up the valley you’ll come to isolated Wonjeogam, a tiny hermitage home to a couple of monks and an abnormally large golden statue, before the trail swings back along the mountain face towards Baengnyeonam, another hermitage that marks the final sight on this route. Built in 632, the structure has been destroyed and rebuilt several times since then, and enjoys the most arresting setting of the three – bamboo stalks in a grove behind the main building point up towards the sheer rock crags of Naejangsan’s main ridge, while in the other direction is the awesome view of a distant pavilion nestling beneath the peaks.
There are eight main peaks on the ridge route, and it’s possible to scale them all on a calf-burning 13.8km day hike, but most visitors content themselves with a shorter trip up and down – wherever you are on this circular route, you won’t be far from a path heading back towards Naejangsa in the centre, and it’s even possible to take a cable car up to a restaurant (usually pumping with loud ajumma music) within a short hike of the southern ridge.
Practicalities
The park lies almost directly between Gwangju and Jeonju, and there are occasional direct buses from both cities. Otherwise you’ll have to transfer in Jeongeup (
), a small town well serviced by bus and train, and around thirty minutes from Naejangsan by bus. Once you’ve alighted at Naejangsan’s main bus stop, getting to the park can be a little confusing; buses usually drop off outside the Family Mart, and from here you should turn left and follow the road. It’s a fair walk to the entrance, but cheap shuttle buses run through the day, and it’s also possible to pedal the route on a rented bike. The park’s information office (daily 9am–5pm) is around five minutes’ walk up the road from the Family Mart, and usually staffed with an English-speaker. Almost directly opposite is the Swegobil Motel (
063/538-8122; 
), which is consistently decent, though prices are a little high. Connected to this is 
Gwangju-daegwal Sikdang, a restaurant that serves delicious mountain fare, and, handily, is next to the information office for when you need help with the menu. If you’re looking for something more rustic, on the other side of the Family Mart is a small, friendly village of family homes, many of which lease out minbak rooms from W25,000 or so.
Seonunsan National Park
SEONUNSAN NATIONAL PARK (
) has more than a few aces hidden up its leafy sleeves. It offers some of the country’s best rock-climbing and a few enjoyable hikes; these may not be as well signed as others in Korea, but some may find this liberating. A streamside path, lined with stalls selling delicious mountain berry juice in the summer and autumn, heads straight from the main entrance to Seonunsa (
), a dusty collection of buildings, stupas and the like that appear to have been thrown together with little care. It’s quite possibly the least satisfying temple complex in the province, and the small hermitages strewn around the park are of more interest.
Once past the temple, you’ll have a diverse range of trails to choose from. Hikers should head for the hills; the peaks are puny by Korean standards, rarely reaching above 400m, but this makes for some easy day-hikes, and you may be rewarded with occasional views of the West Sea. For more hardcore thrills, continue further on the temple path, across the river; hidden a ten-minute hike behind a small restaurant is a spectacular rock-climbing course. This is a tough route and should not be attempted alone or without equipment – see 
www.koreaontherocks.com for climb details, and to contact the few Koreans (and expats) au fait with holds, conglomerates and juggy overhangs. Back towards the entrance, an underused side path heads along the temple wall and up a gorgeous valley lined with rows of tea trees and a few rustic dwellings. You’ll soon come across a small, beautiful farming village, where one house offers minbak accommodation (
); if you don’t mind sharing a bathroom and sleeping on the floor, it’s the best place to stay in the area. A motley collection of poor hotels lies outside the park entrance, including the over-expensive Sun Un San (
063/561-3377; 
) and the dilapidated Dongbaek (
063/562-1560; 
) – it’s far better to stay elsewhere. There’s also a small tourist information booth near the park bus stop.
Seonunsan is a day-trip from Jeonju or Gwangju, though access to the park is usually via Gochang (
), the closest town and connected to it by regular buses. On the way back to Gochang, some bus drivers may be willing to drop you off within walking distance of a dolmen site (Gochang goindol; 
). Similar to the burial mounds found on Ganghwado, this collection of ancient rocks is one of the few Korean sites saved for posterity by UNESCO World Heritage, and may be one of the least-visited places on their list. However, it’s worth the effort of getting to if you’ve time, patience and a love of the countryside.
In addition to the usual mix of peaks and temples found in Korea’s parks, BYEONSANBANDO NATIONAL PARK (
) throws in some wonderful sea views. Best accessed by bus #100 (W1500; 30min) or taxi (W20,000) from the town of Buan (
), the park is spread around a small, rural peninsula on the west coast from which it takes its name (bando literally means “half-island”). However, it’s in the process of being hauled towards the mainland on its northern side with the aid of a 33km causeway, a development that will yield thousands of hectares of new farmland, but has caused one hell of a stink with Korean environmental groups.
Chaesokgang and around
Heading west by bus from the end of the dam, you’ll pass a couple of nice beaches before arriving at the unusual rock formations of Chaesokgang (
; daily 9am–6pm; W1600). You have to time it right to get the most out of the place – for much of the day it’s just a bunch of pretty cliffs, but the surrender of the tide reveals page-like leaves of rock piled up like rusty banknotes, and teeming with crabs and other oceanic fauna.
Chaesokgang is served by four buses an hour from Buan, though its entrance is badly signed – from the bus stop (the last stop on the route) head back along the road for 100m or so, then turn left through an area of motels and fish restaurants. Near the port south of the cliffs is a ferry terminal, which has services to, and occasionally beyond, the island of Wido (
), though this too has provided cause for environmental concern, and was at one point slated for the storage of nuclear waste.
The southern peninsula
The charming southern side of the peninsula offers more trails and temples. The temple complex of Naesosa (
) is more notable for its rural, mountain-backed setting than any of its buildings, and is the most accessible place from which to start a hike. Persimmon trees surround the entrance (from where it’s a short walk to the temple and its adjacent minbak village); these shed their leaves at the slightest sniff of autumn, leaving behind naked baubles of bright orange fruit. The temple’s main building’s exterior is almost entirely devoid of paint, while inside four dragons ascend to heaven, two headless, one gnawing a fish. From here, hiking routes head up to Gwaneumbong (425m), one via Cheongnyeonam, a small hermitage with great sea views. It’s possible to continue down the north face of the mountains to an artificial lake, though public transport here is nonexistent.
From the main entrance outside Naesosa, hourly buses head to and from Chaesokgang and Buan, the latter a convoluted route passing little-visited temples and innumerable small villages.
When I was a boy, all this was waves…
To the north of Byeonsanbando National Park lies a bizarre sight. Sketching a long line between sea and sky is a 33km-long traffic-bearing causeway that stretches all the way north to Gunsan. Prior to construction, more than 40,000 hectares east of this concrete snake were part of the West Sea, but are now slowly being converted into rice fields, a change large enough to be clearly visible on maps of the country.
Understandably, this mammoth project ruffled feathers in Korea’s largely toothless environmental lobby, which was concerned about the effect of the loss of the area’s mud flats on the local fish and bird populations, and asked why a country with a shrinking population needed so many new rice fields; Korea has long been forced to subsidize rice to prevent cheaper imports from destroying an important national industry. One interesting protest, dubbed “Three Steps, One Bow”, saw demonstrators making a two-month, 300km pilgrimage to Seoul, taking three steps at a time before prostrating themselves on the ground. The protest failed to meet its goals, and the project should be completed by 2012; the main protest site near Buan – an area of large wooden poles, carved with anguished faces, rising from the sand of the former shore – may well have been drowned by then.
On the southern end of the causeway is the project’s information centre; there’s almost no information in English, but the staff will be willing to play you an unintentionally hilarious English-language DVD, in which a cute cartoon hostess communicates the benefits of the dam: “The blue ocean and the endless embankment!” she screams in introduction, before a token foreigner dreamily declares that it (presumably the dam, though he’s looking at the sky) must be the most beautiful place he’s ever seen. Though Kim Jong-il may have produced less balanced pieces of film, few could better the parody.
The small city of JEONJU (
) is a place of considerable appeal; though finally starting to attract domestic tourists in the numbers it richly deserves, it remains largely off the radar of international visitors. This is ironic, since it’s possibly the best place in the land in which to get a handle on Korean customs. Most visitors make a beeline for the city’s splendid hanok village of traditional wooden housing, which contains more than enough for a full day of sightseeing, as well as being a good introduction to Korea’s indigenous arts and crafts. In addition, spring sees Jeonju hosting JIFF (
eng.jiff.or.kr), by far the most eclectic major film festival in the country.
However, it’s food that Koreans most readily associate with Jeonju. Many of the differences are too subtle to be noticed by foreigners – and in the cheapest places, nonexistent – but you’re likely to find a greater and more lovingly prepared number of banchan (
; side dishes) here, and a slightly greater emphasis on herbal seasoning than on the somewhat less cultivated tastebud-tinglers of salt and red pepper paste. Particularly notable is the city’s take on the tasty Korean staple, bibimbap. The only downside is that Korean food just won’t taste as good when you’ve moved on elsewhere.
Jeonju’s ginkgo-lined streets help to create an ambience notably relaxed for a Korean city, but this disguises a hidden historical pedigree – this unassuming city marked the beginning of one of the longest lines of kings that the world has seen. It was here in the fourteenth century that the first kings of the Joseon kingdom were born, and the dynasty went on to rule Korea for over five centuries. Overlooked as the dynastic capital in favour of Seoul, today’s Jeonju is not brimming with historical riches, but it has its charms, and is well worth a visit.
Arrival, information and orientation
Bus passengers are disgorged at one of two crusty terminals – one express, one intercity – in a messy area to the north of the city centre. Plenty of buses run into town from the main road a short walk to the east. However, it’s far easier to go by taxi, which is unlikely to cost more than W3000, and may even work out cheaper for those in a small group. More pleasant is arriving at Jeonju’s train station (its exterior shaped something like a giant temple building); this is also a bus ride or a few thousand won in a taxi from the centre. If you’re coming from or heading to points south of Jeonju (notably Jeongeup, Mokpo and Gwangju) you can usually make use of a small bus stop that’s far closer to the hanok village.
There’s precious little point in basing yourself outside the city centre. It’s split into two halves, separated by the main road of Paldallo; the traditional hanok village lies to the east, and a far more modern shopping area just north and to the west. The former is best reached by heading to Jeondong Cathedral, just off Paldallo. Inside the hanok village itself are two information booths (daily 9am–6pm) – the larger and most useful is near the Pungnammun gate – while there’s an even bigger centre near City Hall (9am–9pm; 
063/288-0105). Whichever you head to, pick up one of the excellent free maps of the hanok village; these should also be available at the train station and bus terminals.
Accommodation
For a place with such tourist potential, Jeonju has a surprising dearth of quality accommodation. However, the city does provide a rare opportunity to stay at specially adapted hanok buildings – these are traditional dwellings, so don’t expect large rooms or too much comfort. The experience is unique, nonetheless, especially in winter when your feet are toasted by the ondol floors. Otherwise, there are plenty of motels in the city centre, as well as the superb 
Hanok Spa (W7000 for the night), a jjimjilbang north of Gyeonggijeon; in addition to the regular pools, this facility has baths infused with rose, pomegranate and ginseng, and hauls its waters from 170m beneath the surface.
Core Riviera Hanok village 
063/232-7000. Not to be confused with its lesser brother the Core Hotel near City Hall, this crusty hotel stands somewhat obtrusively over the hanok village. All rooms are carpeted and homely, but poor value for the price – make sure you get one with a westward view over the traditional area below. Unfortunately, it’s the only higher-end option in Jeonju. 
Gowonjang 
Jungangdong 
063/286-3211. One of a string of motels opposite the CGV cinema in the town centre, and usually the easiest to haggle down in price. Rooms are decent enough, and most have private facilities and cable TV. 
Jeonju Guesthouse Gyeongwondong 
063/286-8886. Charming hostel, conveniently located just north of the hanok village. The English-speaking owner is a priceless source of local information, and although the bedrooms are a tiny bit stuffy the large common area is a great place to meet new friends. Dorms W19,000, twins 
Korean Traditional Life Experience Park Hanok village 
063/280-7000, 
www.jjhanok.com. As its painfully dry name suggests, this establishment sees guests staying in traditional hanok rooms. It’s highly popular with Korean tourists, so try to book at least a week in advance. Non-guests can watch traditional music and dance performances each Sat at 8pm in the delightful courtyard. 
Suman Motel 
Gyeongwondong 2-ga 
063/231-7770. Though a little soulless with its yellow linoleum rooms, this motel is as close as you’ll get to Gyeonggijeon – a beautiful shrine in the hanok village – and is also within an easy walk of the shopping quarter. 
Yangsajae 
Hanok village 
063/282-4959, 
www.jeonjutour.co.kr. One of the hanok district’s traditional dwellings, this is smaller and less polished than others, and provides a more authentic experience. Its setting in the more rustic southern half of the district also helps, and although the rooms are tiny they’re pleasant and ondol-heated. 
Jeonju’s main attraction is undoubtedly its splendid hanok village (
), a city-centre thatch of largely traditional housing. Highlights include a cathedral, an ancient shrine and a former Confucian academy, as well as museums for calligraphy, paper and wine; almost all sights are free, and there’s enough to keep you busy for a full day. The best way to enjoy it is simply to turn up and wander around – whether it be a museum, a traditional restaurant or a photogenic house, there’s something to see around every corner. There are no opening times or entry fees to the area and it remains a functioning part of the city, one that’s particularly beautiful at night when most of the tourists have gone. The area has a distinct north–south divide – the north is far more polished and home to an ever-increasing number of bars and cafés, while the southern section is a pleasingly authentic and untouched slice of old Korea, with locals meandering up and down the narrow lanes as they have for decades. Musical pansori performances are frequent, and you may even be able to participate in traditional activities such as lantern-making or calligraphy.
The best place to get your bearings is Taejoro, a road that bisects the hanok village. Lightly trafficked and studded with small lights that glow at night, it has two information offices that can provide you with maps of the area. The eastern office offers free bike rental, though you’ll probably have to get there early to nab one.
Traditional arts and crafts in the hanok village
Near the eastern end of Taejoro, the road bisecting the hanok village, you’ll find the Traditional Craftworks Exhibition Hall (Tues–Sun: March–Oct 10am–7pm; Nov–Feb 10am–6pm; free), a traditionally styled wooden structure which holds crafts created by Jeonju artisans – a great place to hunt for souvenirs. If you’re lucky you may get to see one of the traditional song and dance shows that are occasionally held just outside the complex – there’s a list of performance times on the hanok village map. North of Taejoro, exhibits in the Traditional Wine Museum (Tues–Sun: June–Aug 9am–7pm; Sept–May 9am–6pm; free) aren’t terribly interesting, but the beauty of the hanok building – and the fact that free tipples are occasionally handed out – make it worth a quick peek. Of more interest is the Korean Paper Institute (same times; free), where beautiful examples of products made with handmade paper (
; hanji) are on display, many available to buy; if you ask nicely, you may even be able to try your hand at making a kite or lantern.
South of Taejoro, and overlooking the stream that marks the hanok village’s southern boundary, is the Gangam Calligraphy Museum (10am–5pm; free); stored inside are wonderful examples of writing from some of Korea’s best-known calligraphers. Artistic beauty of a different kind can be found a five-minute walk east along the streamside road, at the Traditional Culture Center, which puts on pansori shows every Friday at 7.30pm (W5000). The mournful singing and sparse drum-raps are well complemented by the old-fashioned beauty of the building, the performers are usually of an extremely high standard, and the shows are not over-long, making this an absolute must-see. Other nights see similar performances, though of slightly lower quality. Other programmes run by the centre include a free tea ceremony course every third Thursday (10.30am–noon), and irregular cheap lessons (W5000–10,000) in cooking, fan-making, traditional music and the like; consult a tourist office for details.
Lastly, there are a few interesting craft shops in the hanok village. Abo sells jewellery made in a vaguely dynastic style, and the earrings, bangles and bracelets are all reasonably priced. Practically next door, Midang (
www.mi-dang.net) sells beautiful silks and traditional attire made with a contemporary twist. On the other side of the road, you’ll find a few decent pottery shops.
Pungnammun and Jeondong Cathedral
Most visitors start by heading to a sight just outside the village, across the main road that marks its western boundary. Here lies Pungnammun (
; 24hr; free), an ornate city gate whose present structure dates from 1768, but was originally built in the late fourteenth century as part of Jeonju’s city wall. Now surrounded by a circle of rather ugly modern buildings, it holds a gruesome secret – this is where the heads of martyred Christians were displayed after purges in 1801. Inside the village, on the southern side of Taejoro, Jeondong Cathedral (
) looks almost European with its brown brick walls and soaring spire. It was one of the first cathedrals to be built in Korea, and remains an active place of worship.
Gyeonggijeon
Almost directly opposite the cathedral is Gyeonggijeon (
; daily 9am–6pm; free), a park-like shrine area full of ornate buildings and beautiful trees – quite a sight in the autumn. It was built in 1410 to preserve a portrait of King Taejo, first leader of the famed Joseon dynasty and native of Jeonju, who had died two years previously after arguably the most productive reign in Korea’s long regal history. The portrait shows Taejo resplendent in an embroidered robe, against a pale yellow background, and sits proudly in a hall to the rear of the complex. It’s surrounded by other members of his family, who were only officially made royals after Taejo’s death, a move that gave posthumous legality to his bringing down of the Goryeo dynasty.
Jeonju Hyanggyo
Near the southeastern corner of the hanok village is Jeonju Hyanggyo (
; opening hours vary; free), a former Confucian academy. Present here since 1603, and still housing a few of the original buildings, it sees surprisingly few visitors – a very good thing, as you’ll appreciate more its contemplative raison d’être. Most notable are a number of large ginkgo trees, a couple of which – incredibly – actually predate the complex; with a majesty all of their own, these alone make a trip to this hyanggyo worthwhile.
Jeonju’s most famous dish is, without doubt, its bibimbap (
). Regular bibimbap – a mixture of vegetables served on a bed of rice, with a fried egg and meat on top – is available across the country (see the Korean cuisine section), but in Jeonju they’ve picked up the formula and run with it. Recipes vary from place to place, but the ingredients are always well chosen and may include anything from pine kernels to bluebell roots or fern bracken in addition to the usual leaves and bean sprouts. In addition, your meal will invariably be surrounded by up to twenty free side dishes, made with just as much care, and an even greater variety of ingredients. Beware, however, of restaurants that claim to serve authentic Jeonju bibimbap – many places, particularly around the train station and bus terminals, will simply give you a regular version of the dish (though genuinely made in Jeonju, and thereby circumnavigating Korea’s already weak product description laws). One way to sort Jeonju wheat from Jeonju chaff is the price – for the real deal, you shouldn’t be paying less than W8000, but even at double this price it’s likely to be money well spent.
Hanbyeokdang and around
A place for poets and contemplation, Hanbyeokdang (
; free) is a pavilion dangling off a rock face across the road from the hanok village’s southeast corner; one can only speculate on how beautiful the view must have been when this was built in 1404, before the main road arrived. From here continue south along the river, where the scene is further diluted by the overlarge (and uninteresting) Nature Ecological Museum – how ironic. Before long, however, you’ll be rewarded with a picturesque village, whose paths snake between walls of rock and up the hill to the pine forest behind. The atmosphere here is something special, especially considering its proximity to the city centre; all the more surprising, then, that this little hamlet may have been the true birthplace of Joseon-era Korea – local rumours suggest that this was the source of the dynasty’s first royals. Nowadays it’s home to Seungamsa (
), a simple, deserted but intricately painted temple.
It’s possible to access Martyrs Hill behind the village via a path starting a little further down the river. The martyrs in question include Yi Hang-geom, killed in 1801 along with six of his family for his religious beliefs; his head was displayed on Pungnammun in the city centre to show the populace what happened to Catholics. A thirty-minute slog will take you to his tomb, from where you can follow a number of paths back to the city, many of which are studded with yet more delightfully secluded temples and hermitages.
Jeonju has a national reputation as a city of culinary excellence and visitors should not leave without trying the city’s wonderful bibimbap. There exist a number of excellent traditional restaurants in the hanok village, together with some rustic tearooms and an ever-growing number of cafés. The places to eat around the bus and train stations are surprisingly poor.
Cheon Nyeon Nuri Bom Gyeongwondong. Just north of Gyeonggijeon, this is a thoroughly noble restaurant – the volunteer staff are all female retirees, and all the food is free. You are, however, obliged to pay for the alcohol: it’s W15,000 for a bowl of dongdongju rice-wine. After that, you’re free to tuck into the superb Korean food on offer – you may well get a different dish each time you raise your hand. Wonderful.
Damun 
Hanok village. With simple, traditionally styled rooms arrayed around a charming dirt courtyard, this is a highly atmospheric slice of old Korea. Filling set meals (
; hansik) go for W10,000 per person (minimum two). It’s a little tricky to hunt down – look for the Chinese-language sign.
Gyodong Guksu 
Hanok village. There are just two items on the menu at this tiny place – you can have your noodles in a spicy sauce for W4000, or a marginally blander soup for W3000. Cheap but delicious, and a great place to fall into after a day in the hanok village.
Jongno Hoegwan 
Hanok village. Not the most atmospheric restaurant serving up genuine Jeonju bibimbap, but the location next to Gyeonggijeon is pretty impressive, as is the dish itself. For W10,000 you get the meal and a mouthwatering array of side dishes – the mushrooms, in particular, are nothing short of heavenly.
Jungang-shijang Hoddeok 
Pungnamdong. The name of this little booth is as much of a mouthful as the gloopy sugar-and-rice pancakes on sale for just W700 each – hoddeok (
; pronounced a little like “hot dog”) are extremely popular winter snacks, and on a cold evening are hard to beat.
Omokdae Sarangchae 
Hanok village. Yet more traditional food is on offer at this smartly designed restaurant, which sits just south of the Traditional Craftworks Exhibition Hall; it’s particularly recommended in the evening, when the interior is bathed in a soft glow. Jeonju bibimbap is available for W9000.
Sambaekjip 
Jungangdong. On the fringe of the shopping quarter, and for decades an extremely popular place with lunching Koreans, this restaurant is famed for its kongnamul gukbap (
) – a rice-and-veg dish cooked in a hot stone pot. Try the moju (
), a hot, spicy drink.
Cafés and tearooms
Daho 
Hanok village. One of the most picturesque tearooms in the area, where you sit in tatami-matted rooms around a courtyard. The teas are excellent, particularly the ginger variety.
Dalsae 
Hanok village. The extravagant full name of this tearoom (meaning “Moon-birds think only of the Moon”) is bigger than the building itself – there are just four tables. But the menu has been translated into English of a sort, and the teas are top-notch.
Mosim 
Hanok village. Two-floor, wi-fi-friendly café whose innards have seemingly been fashioned entirely from pine. The coffee is good, and the chunky muffins beg to be eaten.
Usually marketed to foreigners as “Korean opera”, pansori (
) performances are a modern-day derivative of the country’s shamanist past. Songs and incantations chanted to fend off evil spirits or ensure a good harvest slowly mutated over the years into ritualized presentations; the themes evolved, too, with tales of love and despair replacing requests to spirits unseen.
A good pansori may go on for hours, but each segment will be performed by a cast of just two – a female singer (
; sorikkun) and a male percussionist (
; gosu). The sorikkun holds aloft a paper fan, which she folds, unfolds and waves about to emphasize lyrics or a change of scene. While the gosu drums out his minimalist finger taps on the janggo, he gives his singer words – or, more commonly, grunts – of encouragement known as chuimsae, to which the audience are expected to add their own. The most common are “chalhanda!” and “olshi-gu!”, which are roughly equivalent to “you’re doing good!” and “hm!”, a grunt acknowledging appreciation, usually delivered with a refined nod. Just follow the Korean lead, and enjoy the show.
Nightlife
There are countless places to drink or dance the night away in the student zones around the universities, but the one outside Chonbuk National University is generally regarded as the best. The Deep In bar is very popular with expats and visitors alike, but due to its location just south of the shopping quarter – a ghost town at night – it’s a little hit and miss, and can be empty during the week. A little further west is the E-um Bar; owned by the same people as the Traditional Wine Museum, this also serves as a gallery of sorts, with rotating monthly exhibitions of painting or photography.
Finally, Jeonju is one of the best places in the land for the milky rice-wine known as makkeolli. You’ll find over a dozen varieties on sale in convenience stores around the city (though usually only one or two per location); Myeongga makkeolli (
) is one recommended brand. Alternatively, you can buy connoisseur brands from Myeongin Jeontong Juryu (
), a small stall opposite Mosim café.
East of Jeonju
With few urban areas to speak of, it’s bucolic countryside all the way east of Jeonju. Easily accessible on a day-trip from the provincial capital are the wonderful twin peaks of Maisan Provincial Park. Between these lies Tapsa, one of Korea’s most distinctive temples, surrounded by otherworldly spires of stacked rock that, though built without bonding agents and attacked by regular typhoons and snowstorms, continue to stand tall. Pushing on further east you’ll soon hit the slopes of Deogyusan National Park, home to the popular ski resort Muju.
Korea’s pine-clad mountain ranges tend to look rather similar to each other. One exception is tiny MAISAN PROVINCIAL PARK (
), or “horse-ear Mountains”, so-named after two of its peaks. It’s easy to reach Maisan by bus on a day-trip from Jeonju, via the small town of Jinan (
). The park is within walking distance of Jinan’s decaying bus terminal, but most opt for taking a taxi along the lake to the main entrance north of the park – the fifteen-minute trip should cost around W4000, though many drivers will try to get you to go to the more distant Tapsa entrance for around three times that price. At the northern entrance are restaurants and a couple of places to stay, and from here steep flights of energy-sapping stairs take you between the horses’ ears and over the scalp, where you’ll probably need a rest. Unfortunately it’s not possible to climb the peaks, which were closed for regeneration at the time of writing; the path up the western ear is due to reopen in 2014. Despite the threat of heavy fines and the fact that hikers stand out like a sore thumb, people still flout the rule.
If you continue between the peaks, you’ll soon come to Unsusa, a dainty temple surrounded by flowers in warmer months, while further down the mountain is the highly popular temple of Tapsa (
), Maisan’s real gem, which sits in a surreal clasp of stacked rock. Mildly Gaudíesque in appearance, the near-hundred-strong towers were the work of one monk, Yi Kap-myong (1860–1957), who apparently used no adhesive in their construction, even though some are over 10m high.
Muju and Deogyusan National Park
Locked into the northeast of Jeonbuk province is Deogyusan National Park (
), whose lofty yet gentle terrain rises up south of Muju ski resort, then spills down in an undulating series of valleys. Both park and resort can be reached on regular buses via Muju town itself along a typically relaxed slice of rural Jeolla – the 19km drive in from the west is astonishingly beautiful. Buses continue past the resort on to Gucheondong, the main entrance to Deogyusan; there are also free hourly shuttle buses linking this entrance with the ski resort.
Despite being one of the warmest and most southerly ski resorts in Korea, MUJU (
; 
www.mujuresort.com) is one of the peninsula’s most popular, and attracts hordes of skiers throughout the winter, a season artificially elongated with the aid of some hefty snow machines. Less bulky ski equipment is available for hire, and whether you’re a ski veteran or an absolute beginner, you’ll have more than twenty slopes to choose from. It’s also possible to sled or go cross-country skiing, or take part in non-snow related activities from golf and paintball to bungee-jumping and bike-rides. There’s plenty of fun to be had in warmer months too, which is actually a great time of year to go – accommodation prices plunge, and there’s great hiking on the hills that would otherwise be covered with snow and skiiers.
Practicalities
It’ll cost a pretty penny to stay next to the slopes. The cushy Hotel Tirol (
063/320-7617; 
), right next to the ski runs and resembling an Austrian cabin, is absurdly expensive during the peak winter season, and far from cheap at other times. Things are much less expensive down the hill in the area’s main motel district; few establishments are worthy of special mention, and it will always pay to shop around, but the best are on and around Baebang-gil, near the main road at the bottom. The oldest of these is the grandly titled Uri-duri Neorang-narang Condo Pension Muju (
063/322-3425 or 6; 
), a rambling light-brick complex with large rooms, and a steal off-season (though they can get a little grubby during these times). Below the Hotel Tirol is Carnival Street, a collection of overpriced restaurants and cafés whose wintry, quasi-Austrian atmosphere can make a refreshing change if you’ve been in Korea for a while. Otherwise there’s Mujunori, near the top end of the village on the way to the resort, which deserves a shout for its adventurous decor and succulent galbi.
The rest of the park
A popular hike – one that almost every visitor to Deogyusan follows – links Muju ski resort with the main park entrance at Gucheondong. Though it’s not especially taxing, much of the upward slog can be chalked off by cable car from the resort, which whisks passengers up the 1520m peak of Seolcheon-bong. From here it’s a 6.2km hike back down to the ski area, or a longer, more beautiful one along a trail riddled with rocks, small waterfalls and pools to the Gucheondong park entrance.
In another section of the park is the fortress Jeoksang Sanseong (
), located near the bus route from Muju town to the resort and park, though sadly not directly on any public transport routes. Unless you hitch, you’ll have to walk from the nearest bus stop, which is in the village of Bukchang-ri – let your driver know where you want to get off – from where the fortress is an hour’s signposted walk away.
Practicalities
Motels and restaurants line the stream in Gucheondong, a village-like area below the park entrance, and much smaller and quieter than the similar district below Muju ski resort. The most pleasant places to stay are on the western side of the water; the best-priced is the Shilla Motel (
063/322-0663; 
), whose friendly owners give occasional discounts to foreigners. Across the creek are two neighbouring restaurants which, bizarrely, both go under the name Jeonju Sikdang: the one at the end of the row is marginally less amicable, but is the only establishment along here that has views of the park, rather than the road. Minbak line the main road all the way from the Muju resort turnoff and, unless you’re camping, represent the cheapest accommodation any time of year – especially important during ski season, when the hotels and motels still manage to stay full despite some hardcore price-hikes. There’s also a campsite near the park entrance (from W3000 per tent).
Travel details
Flights
Gwangju to: Jeju (8 daily; 45min); Seoul (7 daily; 50min).
Mokpo (Muan airport) to: Jeju (2 weekly; 45min).
Yeosu to: Jeju (2 weekly; 45min); Seoul (8 daily; 55min).
Trains
Gwangju to: Daejeon (hourly; 1hr 45min); Seoul (regularly; 2hr 50min).
Jeonju to: Daejeon (hourly; 1hr 30min); Iksan for transfer to KTX high-speed trains (hourly; 20min); Seoul (11 daily; 3hr 30min); Suncheon (hourly; 30min); Yeosu (hourly; 2hr).
Mokpo to: Busan (3 daily; 7hr 25min); Iksan (regularly; 1hr 25min); Jinju (3 daily; 4hr 35min); Seoul (regularly; 3hr).
Suncheon to: Jeonju (hourly; 1hr 30min); Yeosu (hourly; 35min).
Yeosu to: Jeonju (hourly; 2hr); Seoul (11 daily; 5hr 10min); Suncheon (hourly; 35min).
Buses
Gwangju to: Busan (every 30min; 3hr 40min); Chuncheon (4 daily; 5hr); Daegu (every 40min; 3hr 40min); Daejeon (every 20min; 2hr 50min); Gurye (every 30min; 1hr 30min); Gyeongju (2 daily; 3hr 30min); Incheon (hourly; 3hr 40min); Jeonju (every 30min; 1hr 40min); Jindo (every 40min; 2hr 50min); Jinju (3 daily; 2hr); Mokpo (every 30min; 1hr 30min); Naejangsan (5 daily; 1hr 30min); Seonunsan (8 daily; 1hr 40min); Seoul (every 5min; 3hr 55min); Sokcho (4 daily; 6hr); Wando (every 40min; 2hr 40min); Yeosu (regularly; 2hr).
Jeonju to: Buan (every 10min; 1hr 20min); Busan (11 daily; 3hr 35min); Daegu (hourly; 3hr 30min); Daejeon (every 20min; 1hr 20min); Gurye (regularly; 2hr); Gwangju (every 30min; 1hr 40min); Jeongeup (every 10min; 1hr); Jinan (regularly; 50min); Jinju (regularly; 3hr 30min); Mokpo (regularly; 3hr); Muju (regularly; 2hr 30min); Seoul (every 10min; 2hr 50min); Suncheon (11 daily; 2hr 20min); Yeosu (11 daily; 4hr).
Jindo to: Busan (2 daily; 6hr 30min); Gwangju (regularly; 2hr 30min); Mokpo (regularly; 1hr 10min); Seoul (4 daily; 5hr).
Mokpo to: Busan (9 daily; 5hr); Gwangju (regularly; 1hr 30min); Jeonju (regularly; 3hr); Jindo (regularly; 1hr 10min); Seoul (regularly; 5hr 20min); Wando (7 daily; 2hr); Yeosu (every 40min; 3hr 30min).
Muju to: Daejeon (regularly; 1hr 30min); Gwangju (regularly; 3hr 40min); Jeonju (regularly; 2hr); Seoul (5 daily; 2hr 40min).
Suncheon to: Busan (regularly; 3hr); Gwangju (every 20min; 1hr 30min); Gurye (regularly; 1hr); Jeonju (11 daily; 2hr 20min); Jinju (regularly; 1hr 30min); Mokpo (regularly; 2hr 50min); Seoul (6 daily; 5hr); Yeosu (every 5min; 50min).
Wando to: Gwangju (regularly; 2hr 40min); Mokpo (every 50min; 2hr); Seoul (4 daily; 6hr).
Yeosu to: Busan (hourly; 3hr 40min); Gwangju (regularly; 2hr); Jeonju (11 daily; 4hr); Mokpo (every 40min; 3hr 30min); Seoul (regularly; 5hr 40min).
Ferries
Mokpo to: Heuksando (4 daily; 1hr 45min); Hongdo (2 daily; 2hr 15min); Jeju City (4 daily; 3hr 10min–4hr 30min).