Skirt Steak with Mediterranean Herb Butter and Garlicky Broccolini
Peppered Skirt Steak with Spicy Tomato-Curry Garbanzo Beans and Tangy Greek Yogurt Sauce
Seared Beef Filet with White Beans, Bitter Greens, and Black Olive Tapenade
Seared Beef Filet with Horseradish-Spiked Mashed Potatoes and Horseradish Cream
Seared Beef Filet with Black Beans, Avocado, and Green Chile Salsa
Chasen’s Chili (Suzanne Goin, Lucques, Los Angeles)
Veal Involtini with Artichoke Leaf Sauce
This is an elevated version of your basic meat and vegetable plate. Broccolini is a hybrid of broccoli rabe and asparagus. It’s just as flavorful but doesn’t have the bitterness of broccoli rabe. Here, I cook it with jarred whole garlic: the whole cloves are peeled and pickled and have a trace of vinegar flavor that’s nice in these greens. This steak is topped with a compound butter, which is butter flavored with the addition of other ingredients. Generally it is made in advance and refrigerated until it’s solid. For this book, I just spoon it on soft. Skirt steak comes in very large pieces—at some stores, it’s sold rolled up. A single skirt steak can vary in thickness from ¼ inch to 1 inch at different places on the cut. For this reason, you need to be careful not to overcook it. The cooking times I give here are for 1-inch-thick steaks cooked rare to medium-rare. For medium, cook them for 1 minute longer on each side. When slicing the cooked steak, make sure you’re cutting it against the grain. Skirt steak is a really tender cut of meat, but if you cut it with the grain, it can be tough.
30 MINUTES
FOR THE HERB BUTTER
½ stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature but not greasy
2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves
2 teaspoons capers, rinsed
2 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped
2 cornichons, minced
1 small garlic clove, grated or minced (about ½ teaspoon)
¼ teaspoon sea salt
FOR THE BROCCOLINI
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
20 whole pickled garlic cloves, drained (from 1 2¼-ounce jar; about ⅓ cup)
Kosher salt
14 ounces broccolini, ends trimmed (about 24 pieces or 2 bunches)
Chile flakes
1½ pounds skirt steak
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup canola oil
To make the herb butter, stir the butter, mustard, parsley, tarragon, capers, anchovies, cornichons, garlic, and sea salt together in a small bowl.
To prepare the broccolini, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil with the gar-lic cloves and a pinch of kosher salt in a large skillet over high heat and sauté for about 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is golden. Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the broccolini, another pinch of salt, and a pinch of chile flakes. Stir to coat the broccolini with the hot oil. Add 3 tablespoons of water, cover the skillet, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, until the water has evaporated.
Cut the skirt steak into pieces that will fit in the skillet you’re using and season both sides of the steaks with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the canola oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Add half of the steaks and sear them for 2 minutes (1 minute for very thin steaks), until the surfaces are nicely browned. Turn the steaks and sear for 2 minutes on the other side (1 minute for very thin steaks), until the meat is nicely browned. Transfer the steaks to a plate and repeat, heating the remaining oil and cooking the remaining steaks in the same way.
Place the steaks first-cooked side up and slice them ¼ inch thick against the grain at an angle. Divide the slices among four plates and drizzle them with the juices from the plate they were resting on. Smear the butter over the center of the steaks in a thick layer so it just begins to melt around the edges but is still visible, and place the broccolini to the side of the steaks.
There are a lot of good jarred curries out there, but I chose Patak’s brand because it’s not only delicious but also easy to find—places from specialty shops such as Whole Foods to standard supermarket chains carry it. Regarding how to prepare skirt steak, see my note on this page.
25 MINUTES
FOR THE YOGURT SAUCE
½ cup strained whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 large garlic clove, grated or minced (about 1 teaspoon)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1½ pounds skirt steak
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup canola oil (or other neutral-flavored oil)
1 15-ounce can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained (about 1½ cups)
1 10-ounce can Patak’s Spicy Tomato & Cardamom Sauce (about 1 cup)
½ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves, plus extra for garnish
4 cups loosely packed baby spinach leaves
To make the yogurt sauce, stir the yogurt, garlic, lemon juice, and kosher salt together in a small bowl.
Cut the skirt steak into pieces that will fit in the skillet you’re using, and season both sides of the steaks with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the canola oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Add half of the steaks and sear them for 2 minutes (1 minute for very thin steaks), until the surfaces are nicely browned. Turn the steaks and sear for 2 minutes on the other side (1 minute for very thin steaks), until the meat is nicely browned. Transfer the steaks to a plate and repeat, heating the remaining oil and cooking the remaining steaks in the same way.
Meanwhile, combine the garbanzo beans with the tomato and cardamom sauce in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, to warm them through, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the parsley.
Divide the spinach equally among four plates and sprinkle it with sea salt. Slice the steak at an angle against the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices. Place the steak slices on top of the spinach, dividing them evenly among the plates, and drizzle them with the juices from the plate they were resting on. Spoon the curried garbanzo beans over the steaks, dollop the yogurt sauce on the garbanzo beans, and sprinkle with parsley.
A version of this dish has been on the Campanile menu since day one. I re-created it for this book using jarred olive tapenade and canned beans—and it’s still as delicious as ever.
30 MINUTES
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for thinning the tapenade if necessary
5 cups loosely packed arugula leaves (or a mixture of arugula and radicchio)
Kosher salt
2 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 2 teaspoons)
1 15-ounce can cannellini beans (about 1½ cups), rinsed and drained
4 6-ounce beef filets (about ¾ inch thick)
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup canola oil (or other neutral-flavored oil)
2 teaspoons black olive tapenade
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Add the arugula to the skillet and let it sit for about 30 seconds without stirring. Season it with a pinch or two of kosher salt, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, for another 30 seconds, until some of the leaves are just wilted but some remain bright green. (Some of the leaves may brown slightly, which is fine; it lends a nice flavor to the dish.) Add the beans and ½ cup of water. Stir to incorporate, and cook the mixture for about 2 minutes, until it’s warmed through.
Season both sides of the steaks with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the canola oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Place the steaks in the skillet and sear them on one side for 2 minutes if you want them medium-rare, 4 minutes for medium. Flip the steaks, turn off the heat, and let them sit in the skillet until the skillet goes quiet, about 3 minutes.
If the tapenade is thick and pastelike, put it in a small bowl and stir in a tablespoon or two of olive oil until you obtain a loose, spoonable consistency.
Spoon the beans and greens mixture onto four plates, dividing it evenly. Place the steaks with the first-cooked sides up in the center of each plate and smear the tapenade on the steaks.
Tagliatta is a classic Italian dish of sliced steak often topped with arugula and Parmesan. The name comes from the word tagliare, which means “to cut” in Italian. I don’t call for the meat to be sliced in this version even though that’s how the dish got its name. If you have a jar of the “extra vecchio” (super-good and super-expensive) balsamic vinegar, a few drops sprinkled over the Parmesan cheese tastes great. If you serve it on a large slice of toasted rosemary or olive bread, it also makes a delicious open-faced sandwich.
20 MINUTES
4 6-ounce beef filets (about 1 inch thick)
⅓ cup aged balsamic vinegar, plus extra for drizzling
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon canola oil (or other neutral-flavored oil)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge, for shaving
12 cups loosely packed arugula leaves
Sea salt
High-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
To prepare the beef filets, lay them on a flat cutting surface and run a large sharp knife horizontally through the center of each filet lengthwise, stopping just before you cut all the way through. Butterfly the filets open and press down on them gently to flatten them out.
Stir the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and rosemary together in a baking dish large enough to hold the butterflied filets in a single layer. Place the meat in the marinade, turn it, and rub it with your fingers to coat all sides of the meat with the marinade.
Warm 2 teaspoons of the canola oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Lift two of the steaks out of the marinade and season both sides with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place the steaks in the skillet to sear for 1½ to 2 minutes, flip them, and sear them on the other side for 10 seconds, just long enough to brown the surface and warm the meat. Transfer the filets to a plate and repeat with the other two filets, heating the remaining teaspoon of canola oil and cooking the remaining two steaks in the same way.
Use a sharp knife or a vegetable peeler to cut or shave 25 to 30 very thin slices from the wedge of Parmesan.
Place one filet first-cooked side up on each of four plates and drizzle the steaks with the juices from the plate they were resting on. Pile a handful of arugula on top of each filet, using only half of the arugula, and season it with sea salt and a few grindings of black pepper. Scatter a few slices of Parmesan cheese over each serving and drizzle the arugula and Parmesan cheese with the high-quality olive oil and a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Repeat, building the second layer of the salad the same as the first.
When I first started experimenting with canned potatoes, I was surprised to find so many uses for them; I didn’t think I’d find any at all! They turned out to be a good, quick alternative to cooking fresh potatoes, as long as they’re marinated, cooked with other spices, or, in this case, mashed with butter, crème fraîche, and horseradish. These mashed potatoes may be lumpy even after you purée them, which is fine. Puréeing them to a uniform paste is exactly what you don’t want to do.
30 MINUTES
FOR THE HORSERADISH CREAM
¼ cup grated peeled fresh horseradish (from 1 2-inch piece)
2 tablespoons crème fraîche (or sour cream)
1 heaping tablespoon prepared horseradish
1 teaspoon kosher salt
10 drops Tabasco sauce
2 drops Worcestershire sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE POTATOES
16 canned or jarred potatoes (from 2 12-ounce jars or 2 15-ounce cans)
½ cup cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons crème fraîche (or sour cream)
4 6-ounce beef filets (about ¾ inch thick)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup canola oil (or other neutral-flavored oil)
Peeled fresh horseradish, for grating
30 fresh chives
To prepare the horseradish cream, stir the grated horseradish, crème fraîche, prepared horseradish, kosher salt, Tabasco, Worcestershire, and freshly ground black pepper together in a small bowl.
To make the mashed potatoes, break the potatoes up into 1-inch pieces. Combine them in a medium saucepan with the cream, butter, garlic, and salt. Put the pan over high heat and bring the potatoes to a boil, stirring often. Reduce the heat and simmer the potatoes for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the pan from the heat and use a handheld immersion blender to purée the potatoes for 10 to 15 seconds, until they’re mashed but still slightly lumpy (or mash them with a potato masher or purée them in a food mill). Stir in the crème fraîche and cover.
Season both sides of the steaks with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the canola oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at this point). Place the steaks in the skillet and sear them on one side for 2 minutes if you want them medium-rare, 4 minutes for medium. Flip the steaks, turn off the heat, and let them sit in the skillet until the skillet goes quiet, about 3 minutes.
Spoon the potatoes onto each of four plates, dividing them evenly and smashing them down slightly to create a bed for the steak. Grate about 1 tablespoon of fresh horseradish and use scissors to snip about 1 tablespoon of chives over each serving. Lay the steaks on the potatoes first-cooked side up, dollop 1 tablespoon of the horseradish cream on each steak and serve with the remaining horseradish cream on the side.
The salsa added to these black beans has all the flavors you need to turn simple canned beans into something worthy of the filet you’re putting on top of them.
30 MINUTES
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 2 teaspoons)
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning
1 cup green chile salsa
1 15-ounce can black beans, rinsed and drained (about 1½ cups)
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves, plus 4 whole sprigs for garnish
4 6-ounce beef filets (about ¾ inch thick)
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup canola oil (or other neutral-flavored oil)
1 ripe (or 2 tiny) Hass avocado
High-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Lime, for squeezing over the avocado
Sea salt
Heat the olive oil, garlic, and a pinch of kosher salt in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and sauté for about 1½ minutes, until the garlic is soft and fragrant, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Turn the heat up to high, add the salsa, and cook for about 2 minutes to warm it through, stirring often to keep the salsa from scorching. Add the black beans, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes to warm the beans through and meld the flavors. Turn off the heat and stir in the cilantro.
Season both sides of each steak with the kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the canola oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at this point). Place the steaks in the skillet and sear them on one side for 2 minutes if you want them medium-rare, 4 minutes for medium. Flip the steaks, turn off the heat, and let them sit in the skillet until the skillet goes quiet, about 3 minutes.
Spoon the black beans onto four plates, dividing them evenly. Place the beef filets first-cooked side up on top of the beans. Halve the avocado, remove the pit, and cut each half crosswise into quarters. (If you’re using tiny avocados, cut each avocado in half.) Remove and discard the peel and place one quarter on each filet. Drizzle the avocado with the high-quality olive oil, a few drops of lime juice, sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Top with a sprig of cilantro.
Every year at Lucques, we have a theme to our New Year’s Eve dinner. A few years ago, the theme was Old Hollywood. I researched a lot of menus from various old-school Hollywood restaurants, one of which was Chasen’s. Chasen’s was a legendary restaurant in Beverly Hills that closed in 1995, equally known for its celebrity clientele as for its chili. I didn’t eat at Chasen’s when I was little because my dad was a Los Feliz–born anti-westsider, so we never crossed La Cienega except to go to the beach. Still, having grown up in Los Angeles, and especially now, I’d heard about the chili. For our New Year’s feast, I jazzed it up a little and made it with pork as well as beef. I usually start with dried pinto beans and a slow-cooked pork shoulder, but I adapted the recipe for Nancy’s book. I specify “chili grind” for the beef. If your butcher isn’t familiar with this term or they don’t sell beef labeled as such at your grocery store, request meat ground coarser than it is for hamburger.
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Although an hour and ten minutes seems like a long time when you want to get dinner on the table, the actual prep time for making this chili is about 30 minutes. After that, it just needs time to simmer. While it’s simmering you may want to toast some thick slices of country bread, sprinkle them with grated Cheddar cheese, and melt them under the broiler. Suzanne serves these toasts on the rim of each bowl of chili. —Nancy
1 HOUR 10 MINUTES
2 15-ounce cans pinto beans (about 3 cups), not drained
3 cups chicken broth (or water)
2 14.5-ounce cans whole San Marzano tomatoes, diced (about 2½ cups)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 arbol chile, crumbled with your hands
1 fresh rosemary sprig
1 large red bell pepper, diced
1 large yellow onion, diced
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¾ pound ground pork
¾ pound chili grind beef
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chile powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
½ cup crème fraîche (or sour cream)
10 fresh chives
Combine the beans (including their juice) and the chicken broth in a large saucepan and bring to a low simmer over high heat. Add the tomatoes and return to a low simmer, reduce the heat, and continue to simmer the mixture while you prepare the rest of the chili.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add the olive oil, arbol chile, and rosemary sprig and cook for 1 minute. Add the bell pepper and sauté for about 5 minutes to soften it. Add the onion and thyme and cook, stirring often, until the onion is tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in the parsley and garlic and cook for another minute to soften the garlic, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Transfer the pepper-onion mixture to a bowl and remove the rosemary sprig.
Melt the butter in the same skillet over high heat. Add the ground pork and ground beef and cook the meats until they’re brown all over, about 8 minutes. Season the meat with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper and add the pepper-onion mixture. Stir in the chile powder and cumin, and cook for about 10 minutes to meld the flavors. Add this mixture to the simmering beans and simmer the chili, covered, for 20 minutes. Uncover the pot and simmer the chili for another 10 minutes. Season with more kosher salt or freshly ground black pepper if necessary.
Ladle the chili into four large soup plates or bowls, spoon a generous dollop of crème fraîche over each serving, and use scissors to snip the chives into 1-inch pieces over the chili.
Jar is one of my favorite restaurants in Los Angeles and this dish is one of my favorite things to order there. I’ve always loved the combo of fried eggs and ground steak. I really wanted this recipe in the book and because the green peppercorns come from a jar (or can), they were my excuse to include it. Besides, they’re so prominent in the dish—they’re what makes the sauce distinctive—that it didn’t seem like too much of a stretch. —Nancy
40 MINUTES
FOR THE SAUCE
2 tablespoons canola oil (or other neutral-flavored oil)
1 small shallot, grated or minced (about 1 teaspoon)
1 large garlic clove, grated or minced (about 1 teaspoon)
4 tablespoons green peppercorns in brine (about 2 ounces), drained
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1¼ cups red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
2 fresh thyme sprigs (or ¼ teaspoon dried thyme)
2 cups veal stock (or beef or chicken broth)
½ tablespoon unsalted butter
1½ pounds chopped sirloin
5 large eggs
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil (or other neutral-flavored oil)
4 1-inch-thick slices from a large round rustic loaf
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt
To make the sauce, heat the oil with the shallot and garlic in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat and sauté for about 1½ minutes, until the shallot is soft and the garlic is soft and fragrant, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Add the peppercorns and continue cooking for another minute, stirring frequently and being careful not to let the garlic brown. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the flour and stir to mix well. Add the wine and thyme sprigs and stir to combine. Bring the wine to a simmer, reduce the heat, and continue to simmer for 2 minutes. Add the stock, return the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the sauce for about 20 minutes, until it’s reduced by half. Just before serving, stir in the butter.
Combine the chopped sirloin, one of the eggs, parsley, kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper together in a large bowl and mix it with your hands just until the ingredients are thoroughly combined. Form the meat into four equally sized thick patties, shaping the patties to fit on the bread slices.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Place the patties in the skillet to sear for about 2 minutes per side for rare, 3 minutes per side for medium-rare. Remove the patties from the skillet and place them on a plate while you toast the bread and fry the eggs.
Toast the bread in a toaster, then brush it on one side with the melted butter.
To fry the eggs, heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Break one egg into a small bowl, and then transfer it to the skillet. Let it just begin to set around the edges, then break the second egg into the bowl and pour it into the skillet. (By waiting a moment before adding the second egg, the eggs won’t set together and will be easy to separate and serve individually.) Cook them for about 1½ minutes, until the whites are set and the edges are golden and crispy but the yolks are still runny. Remove the eggs to a plate and cook the remaining two eggs in the same way.
Place one piece of toast buttered side up on each of four plates and set the sirloin burgers on top of them. Hold back about 4 teaspoons of the peppercorn sauce for garnishing the egg and pour the remaining sauce over and around the burgers, letting the sauce flow around the toast so the toast can absorb it. Place a fried egg on top of each burger and sprinkle the egg with sea salt and the remaining peppercorn sauce.
Involtini are thin slices of fish or meat—in this case veal—that are stuffed and rolled. Artichoke leaves make a delicate and really pretty sauce.
40 MINUTES
2 cups breadcrumbs or 30 saltine crackers, ground to fine crumbs
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
3 cups loosely packed arugula leaves, plus extra for garnishing
6 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
3 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)
12 2-ounce veal cutlets
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SAUCE
16 whole artichokes (in water), rinsed and drained
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
High-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Sea salt
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 500°F.
Combine the breadcrumbs, olive oil, arugula, anchovies, and garlic in a food processor.
Lay the veal cutlets out on a flat work surface and season both sides with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the breadcrumb mixture onto each cutlet and spread it out in a thin layer. Roll up each cutlet and stick a toothpick through each roll to keep it closed. Line up the rolls in a large baking pan or an ovenproof skillet, making sure they’re not touching one another, drizzle with enough olive oil to prevent the veal from drying out, and turn to coat them on all sides. Place the veal in the oven and bake for 10 minutes, until the meat is cooked through.
To prepare the sauce, pull the leaves off the artichoke hearts. (If there are any hearts left, snack on them!)
Heat the olive oil, garlic, and a pinch of kosher salt in a large skillet over medium-high heat and sauté them until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1½ minutes, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Turn the heat up to high, add the artichoke leaves and the teaspoon of kosher salt, and sauté for 2½ to 3 minutes, stirring constantly, until the leaves start to brown and the water released from the leaves is cooked out.
Scatter the artichoke leaves on four plates, dividing them evenly. Place three veal rolls on each plate, scatter the arugula over them, drizzle them with the high-quality olive oil, and season with sea salt to taste.