CENTRAL BERLIN: UNTER DEN LINDEN
The magnificent boulevard of Unter den Linden is the heart of historic Mitte. Many of Berlin’s sights are clustered along this grand avenue and around Bebelplatz, creating an impressive picture of Prussian and German history from the early 18th century onwards. To the south lies the Neo-Classical Gendarmenmarkt, one of Europe’s most attractive squares; around it are elegant restaurants and cafés. Not far away, chic Friedrichstraße is lined with luxury stores and modern offices and apartments.
1.Brandenburger Tor
Pariser Platz 
Berlin’s best-known landmark on Pariser Platz leads through to Unter den Linden (for further details see Brandenburger Tor and Pariser Platz).
2.Humboldt-Box
Schlossplatz 5 • 10am–8pm daily • Admission charge • www.humboldt-box.com/en This colourful structure on the Museumsinsel provides information on the reconstruction of the Berliner Schloss and is a multimedia introduction to the Humboldt-Forum (for further details see Schlossplatz). Upon completion of the Forum (scheduled for 2019), the temporary Humboldt-Box will be dismantled. Until then, it will host science, art, culture and architecture exhibitions. It also has a sky-lounge restaurant and viewing platform.
The futuristic Humboldt-Box
3.Forum Fridericianum
Unter den Linden and Bebelplatz The historic structures of this complex are among the city’s finest. From 1740, Frederick the Great commissioned the prestigious Neo-Classical buildings for the area around today’s Bebelplatz and personally influenced their design: Deutsche Staatsoper, the Catholic St Hedwigskathedrale, Alte Bibliothek and Prinz-Heinrich-Palais, later the Humboldt University. A memorial set into the ground at Bebelplatz recalls its dark past – in 1933, it was the site of the Nazi book burning. Frederick’s successors commissioned the Altes Palais and a statue of “Old Fritz”, surrounded by “his” buildings. Christian Daniel Rauch created the bronze figure in 1840, portraying Frederick wearing his trademark tricorn hat and coronation mantle. The statue has always faced west but wags claim that the East German government mistakenly placed the figure the wrong way around.
4.Museumsinsel
Pergamonmuseum, Bodestr. 1–3 • 030 266 424 242 • 10am–6pm daily, to 8pm Thu • Admission charge • Alte Nationalgalerie, Bodestr. 1–3 • 030 266 424 242 • 10am–6pm Tue–Sun, to 8pm Thu • Admission charge • www.smb.museum Museum Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the most significant complexes of museums in the world, holding major arts collections and imposing, full-scale ancient structures. Based here are the Pergamonmuseum, the Alte Nationalgalerie, the Bode-Museum and the Altes and Neues Museums, including the famous Ägyptisches Museum.
Museumsinsel’s Bode-Museum, with the Fernsehturm in the background
5.Gendarmenmarkt
Mitte This square, whose strict layout is reminiscent of an Italian Renaissance piazza, is probably the most beautiful in Berlin. Named after a regiment of gens d’armes stationed nearby, Gendarmenmarkt was built at the end of the 17th century as a market square. The Schauspielhaus (theatre) on the west side of the square, built by Schinkel in 1818–21, was used as a theatre until 1945. Damaged in World War II, it was reopened as Konzerthaus (concert hall) in 1984. A statue of the playwright Friedrich Schiller stands in front of the building. To the left and right of the Konzerthaus stand the twin towers of the Deutscher and Französischer Doms (German and French cathedrals), dating back to the late 18th century. Französischer Dom, to its north, is a prestigious late Baroque building; concealed behind it is the French Friedrichstadtkirche, a church serving Berlin’s Huguenot community. The Deutscher Dom opposite, built in 1708 on the south side of the square for the Reformed Protestant Church, did not receive its first tower until 1785. Today it has an exhibition on democracy in Germany.
6.Friedrichstraße
Mitte Friedrichstraße has regained some of the glamour and vibrancy it possessed before World War II. Today, Berlin’s Fifth Avenue once again boasts elegant shops and upmarket restaurants and cafés. Especially worth visiting are the three Quartiers 205, 206 and 207 (the latter designed by architect Jean Nouvel) within the Friedrichstadtpassagen, containing the Galeries Lafayette store and Department Store Quartier 206. At the northern end of the street is the famous Dussmann store (books, music, events), S-Bahn station Friedrichstraße and the former entertainment district, which includes the Friedrichstadt-Palast and the impressive Admiralspalast.
7.Holocaust-Denkmal
Ebertstr. • Information Centre: 10am–8pm Tue–Sun (Oct–Mar: to 7pm) The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe serves as Germany’s national Holocaust memorial (for further details see Holocaust-Denkmal). After years of debate, US star architect Peter Eisenman completed the monument in 2005. It consists of a large field with dark grey steles of varying heights up to 2 m (6 ft) high, which symbolize the six million Jews and others murdered by the Nazis in their concentration camps between 1933 and 1945. Below the memorial, an information centre explains the causes and history of the genocide.
Concrete steles, Holocaust-Denkmal
8.Wilhelmstraße
Between Unter den Linden and Leipziger Str. In imperial Berlin, the centre of the German Empire’s governmental power was based in Wilhelmstraße. Around 100 years later, nothing remains of the prestigious historic buildings which represented the equivalent of No. 10 Downing Street in London or Quai d’Orsay in Paris. All political decisions were made at Wilhelmstraße: both Chancellor (at No. 77) and President (No. 73) of the German Reich lived here in old town houses. Their gardens became known as “ministerial gardens”. Adolf Hitler had the street systematically developed into the nerve centre of Nazi power. The Neue Reichskanzlei (the Chancellor’s office) was built in 1937–9 to plans by Albert Speer, at the corner of Vossstraße and Wilhelmstraße. It was blown up in 1945. Behind the Reichskanzlei was the so-called “Führerbunker” where Adolf Hitler committed suicide on 30 April 1945. Today it is a car park. Of the historic buildings, only the former Ministry of Aviation (Reichsluftfahrtministerium) remains. Today, Wilhelmstraße is lined by modern residential and office buildings; the British Embassy, built in 2000 by Michael Wilford, creates a link with the international importance of this street.
British Embassy, Wilhelmstraße
9.Schlossplatz
Mitte Today Schlossplatz seems deserted, but once the Stadtschloss (town residence) of the Hohenzollerns stood here. It was blown up by the East German government in 1950–51, and today just a few historic fragments of the original can be seen. Remains include the façade of the doorway where Karl Liebknecht supposedly proclaimed the Socialist Republic in 1918. The portal has been incorporated into the former Staatsratsgebäude (State Council Building) on the south side of the square. On its eastern side, the square used to be bordered by the Palast der Republik (Palace of the Republic), the former seat of the East German parliament demolished in 2008. The Humboldt-Forum cultural centre will be complete in 2019. It will have a façade reminiscent of the old Hohenzollern Palace, a library and the non-European collections of the Dahlem Museums. Until then, the Humboldt-Box will provide information on the Forum’s development.
Staatsratsgebäudel Schlossplatz
10.Museum für Kommunikation
Leipziger Str. 16 • 030 20 29 40 • 9am–5pm Tue–Fri (to 8pm Tue), 10am–6pm Sat–Sun • Admission charge • www.mfk-berlin.de The world’s largest Post Office Museum opened in 1872. Its excellent displays document the history of communication from the first postage stamps of the Middle Ages to today’s satellite technology. Particularly worth seeing are a blue and a red stamp from Mauritius, one of the first telephone installations (dating back to 1863) and three talking robots who interact with the visitors. Younger visitors always enjoy the Computergalerie, where they can learn and gain new insights while playing.
Historic letterbox
FREDERICK AS ARCHITECT
Forum Fridericianum was not only Frederick the Great’s memorial to himself, it also ensured that Unter den Linden became one of the greatest boulevards in Europe. The king, who favoured a Neo-Classical style, himself drew up plans for the buildings, and Knobelsdorff executed his ideas.
THE HUGUENOTS IN BERLIN
In 1685, the Great Elector issued the famous Edict of Potsdam, granting asylum in Berlin to around 20,000 Huguenots, who were persecuted in their native France because of their Protestant faith. Skilled academics and craftsmen, they moulded Berlin’s social and cultural life and enriched it with the French art of living. Today, the city’s French community still worships at the Friedrichstadtkirche, part of the Französischer Dom complex.
NAZI ARCHITECTURE
One of few surviving examples of the monumental architectural style favoured by the Nazis is the former Reichsluftfahrtministerium (Ministry of Aviation), commissioned by Hermann Göring in 1935–6 from Ernst Sagebiel. The sandstone office block was the world’s largest and most modern, strengthened by steel girders against attack. After reunification, the Treuhandanstalt (privatisation agency) was based here; today it houses the Federal Ministry of Finance.
HISTORIC MITTE WALK
Morning
Turn back the clock on Wilhelmstraße, Berlin’s political nerve centre until 1945. Starting at Hotel Adlon, head south past the bold modern British Embassy. Turn right at Behrensstraße to visit the Holocaust-Denkmal, then carry on along Wilhelmstraße, where signs point out the old ministries. The Prussian State Council was in the Neo-Classical building at No. 54; its last president was Konrad Adenauer, who became West Germany’s first chancellor. At the corner of Vossstraße were Hitler’s main offices in the Neue Reichskanzlei. Continue down to No. 97 on the right, the giant structure of the former Ministry of Aviation. Today the Federal Ministry of Finance is based here. Retrace your steps north, turn right into Mohrenstraße then left into Friedrichstraße. Head to Galeries Lafayette, whose gourmet food department is perfect for a snack lunch.
Afternoon
After lunch, indulge in a spot of shopping at Galeries Lafayette and at Department Store Quartier 206 just down the street. Then head to the beautiful Gendarmenmarkt square nearby. Take some time to admire its Konzerthaus and the imposing Deutscher and Französischer Dome. The latter holds regular classical music concerts – check their website for the schedule. Round off your day with a meal at the gourmet Italian restaurant Malatesta nearby on Charlottenstraße.
A DAY OF CULTURE
Morning
Start your stroll on Unter den Linden, which begins in front of the Brandenburger Tor on Pariser Platz. This was Berlin’s prestigious royal avenue, and the rich and famous still promenade here today. For breakfast, pop into Café Einstein. Afterwards continue east along the boulevard; you will pass the KunstHalle, a gallery of contemporary art run by Deutsche Bank. From here you can already see the 13.5-m (44-ft) high equestrian statue of Frederick the Great at Forum Fridericianum. This area and the nearby Bebelplatz are right in the centre of old Berlin, with the Staatsoper, Altes Palais, St Hedwigskathedrale and Humboldt-Universität around them. Stop for an early lunch at the pleasant museum café of the Zeughaus.
Afternoon
In the early afternoon continue east along Unter den Linden. At the end of the street lies the Museumsinsel. Cross over on the Schloßbrücke to explore the wealth of treasures in the island’s museums. Then, if you still have the time and energy, visit the Berliner Dom. Opposite the cathedral you will see Schlossplatz, with its modern Humboldt-Box information centre. Round off your day in Mitte with a delicious evening meal at the French brasserie Dressler Unter den Linden. To get there, retrace your steps to return along Unter den Linden in a westerly direction.
The Best of the Rest
1.DDR Museum
Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1 • www.ddr-museum.de/en This museum of everyday life in East Germany recreates socialist-era interiors and displays examples of East German design, including a Trabant car visitors can sit in.
Trabant at the DDR Museum
2.Staatsbibliothek Unter den Linden
Unter den Linden 8 • 030 26 60 • staatsbibliothek-berlin.de/en/ The lovely reading rooms of this Neo-Baroque library contain many books and manuscripts that are of worldwide importance (for further details see Staatsbibliothek).
3.WMF-Haus
Leipziger Str., corner Mauerstr. The former headquarters of the porcelain and cutlery manufacturer WMF has remarkable façades decorated with beautiful mosaics.
4.Alte Kommandantur
Unter den Linden 1 This impressive Classicist building designed by Schinkel houses the Berlin offices of the media conglomerate Bertelsmann.
5.Maxim-Gorki-Theater
Am Festungsgraben 2 • english.gorki.de This renowned theatre was once Berlin’s Singakademie, or singing school. Paganini and Liszt, among others, performed here.
6.S-Bahnhof Friedrichstraße
Friedrichstr. Remodelled several times, this has always been one of Berlin’s most famous stations. Between 1961 and 1989, it was the principal crossing point between East and West.
7.Komische Oper
Behrenstr. 55–57 • english.komische-oper-berlin.de One of Germany’s most magnificent opera houses, dating from 1892, is concealed behind a modern façade. All performances are in German.
8.Palais am Festungsgraben
Am Festungs-graben 1 • 030 208 40 00 The 1753 Baroque palace has retained its original elegant interior and magnificent ceiling frescoes.
9.Admiralspalast
Friedrichstr. 101 • www.admiralspalast.de Berlin’s most legendary venue, dating from the 1920s, stages musicals and comedy shows.
Façade of the Admiralspalast
10.Dalí Museum
Leipziger Platz 7 • 0700 32 54 23 75 • www.daliberlin.de A rotating exhibition of some 400 works by the 20th-century Surrealist, including drawings, lithographs, etchings, paintings, sculptures and other three-dimensional works.
Shops
1.Galeries Lafayette
Friedrichstr. 76–78 • 030 20 94 80 • 10am–8pm Mon–Sat Located within Quartier 207, this is the only German branch of the luxury French store (for further details see Galeries Lafayette). Here you will find elegant fashion, and gourmet foods on the lower level.
2.Quartier 206
Friedrichstr. 71 This is where stylish Berliners shop for up-to-the-minute and luxury designer clothes. Shops include Gucci, DKNY and the Department Store Quartier 206.
3.Mall of Berlin
Leipziger Platz 12 • 030 20 62 17 70 A shiny temple of retail commerce, the Mall of Berlin occupies an entire block and connects Leipziger Straße and Wilhelmstraße with a passage. There are 270 shops and restaurants in this shopping centre.
4.Jack Wolfskin
Behrenstr. 23/corner of Friedrichstr. • 030 20 64 80 70 Stock up on apparel, equipment and footwear before setting out on any outdoor activities at this branch of Germany’s famous outfitter.
5.Fassbender & Rausch
Charlottenstr. 60 • 030 20 45 84 43 Giant chocolate sculptures of the Reichstag and Brandenburger Tor adorn the windows and tempt visitors into this shop, a chocaholic’s paradise. There is a café on the upper floor where you can try some of the store’s chocolate creations.
6.Berlin Story
Unter den Linden 40 • 030 20 45 38 42 Almost any book about Berlin, as well as photographs and souvenirs, is available here. There is even a Berlin museum, the Historiale.
7.Kulturkaufhaus Dussmann
Friedrichstr. 90 • 030 20 25 11 11 A mecca for culture junkies, this store offers books, movies, computer games, sheet music and a large section of classical music. It is open until midnight on weekdays.
Kulturkaufhaus Dussmann
8.Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt
Französische Str. 24 • 030 20 09 50 80 The chocolate-maker’s flagship store has fun merchandise, a chocolate-themed exhibition and workshops.
9.Escada
Friedrichstr. 176–179 • 030 238 64 04 Stylish fashion and accessories label for women, boasting a fantastic selection of luxurious materials.
Mannequins in Escada
10.Bucherer
Friedrichstr. 176–179 • 030 204 10 49 A luxury outlet selling quality watches and jewellery.
Pubs and Bars
1.Newton Bar
Charlottenstr. 57 • 030 20 29 54 21 • 10am–3am daily One of the trendiest bars in town. Sink into the deep leather armchairs and sip your cocktails, surrounded by enlarged photographs of nudes by Helmut Newton (for further details see Newton Bar).
2.Sra Bua Bar
Behrenstr. 72 • 030 22 61 19 59 • 8pm–2am daily At the back of Hotel Adlon, this elegant bar specializes in Asian cocktails and creative cuisine by the team of star chef Tim Raue.
3.La Lauschgift
Kleine Präsidentenstr. 3 • 030 66 76 67 27 • From 8pm Thu–Sat A 20-something crowd sips reasonably priced cocktails in this stylish retro bar with good DJs. The venue is sometimes rented out for private parties, so be sure to call and check in advance.
4.Theodor Tucher
Pariser Platz 6A • 030 22 48 94 64 • 7am–11pm daily This lovely restaurant/bistro next to the Brandenburg Gate also hosts readings and art events.
Pleasant interiors of Theodor Tucher
5.Café LebensArt
Unter den Linden 69A • 030 44 72 19 30 • 9am–midnight Sun–Thu, 9am–1am Fri–Sat A café rather than a bar, offering breakfast and afternoon cakes, this is one of the few places open at night on Unter den Linden.
6.Café Einstein
Unter den Linden 42 • 7am–10pm daily • 030 204 36 32 This small and cosy branch of the café serves excellent wines and Austrian specialities.
7.Ständige Vertretung
Schiffbauerdamm 8 • 030 282 39 65 • 11am–1am daily The name harks back to the permanent West German representation in East Berlin. The pub is famous for its Rhine specialities, such as Kölsch beer.
8.Oh, Angie!
Friedrichstr. 67 • 030 20 64 41 64 • 9am–10pm Mon–Sat An elegant lobby bar in the basement of Q205 shopping centre, perfect for a quick healthy lunch or a snack. Definitely try the delicious focaccias and carrot cake.
9.Brauhaus Lemke
Dircksenstr. S-Bahn arch No. 143 • 030 24 72 87 27 • noon–midnight daily An atmospheric pub located under the S-Bahn arches with a small courtyard.
10.Windhorst
Dorotheenstr. 65 • 030 20 45 00 70 • from 6pm Mon–Fri, from 9pm Sat Sophisticated jazz bar with bartenders whipping up your cocktail of choice.
Restaurants
1.Refugium
Gendarmenmarkt 5 • 030 229 16 61 • noon–11pm daily (winter: from 5pm Mon–Fri) • €€ A cosy cellar restaurant next to the French cathedral. International and German dishes.
Atmospheric interiors of Refugium
2.Chipps
Jägerstr. 35 • 030 36 44 45 88 • 9am–late Mon–Sat (to 5pm Sun) • €€ Possibly the best vegetarian/vegan restaurant in Berlin. Organic dishes focus on variations of Asian chipps (potato pancakes) and rice rolls.
3.Vapiano
Mittelstr. 51 • 030 501 541 00 • 10am–midnight daily • € Quality Italian food made in front of you at this self-service restaurant.
4.Grill Royal
Friedrichstr. 105b • 030 28 87 92 88 • 6pm–midnight daily • €€ Steak-lovers can choose from a range of cuts from around the world.
5.Tausend Cantina
Schiffbauerdamm 11 • 030 27 58 20 70 • 7:30pm–late Tue–Sat • €€ Top-notch Asian and Ibero-American cuisine by celebrated chef Duc Ngo, a Berliner with Vietnamese roots.
6.Dressler Unter den Linden
Unter den Linden 39 • 030 204 44 22 • 8am–1am daily • €€ In season, this French brasserie, decorated in Art Deco style, is excellent for oysters. Their inexpensive three-course set menu is recommended.
7.Opera Court
Hotel de Rome, Behrenstr. 37 • 030 46 06 09 12 60 • 2–6pm Fri–Sun • €€ Petit fours, scones, sandwiches and tea are served beneath the gilded skylights at this historic café that boasts marble columns and an original glazed ceiling.
8.Café Nö
Glinkastr. 23 • 030 201 08 71 • noon–1am Mon–Fri, 7pm–1am Sat • € Mediterranean flavours meet German classics at this wine bar and restaurant.
9.Malatesta
Charlottenstr. 59 • 030 20 94 50 71 • 10am–midnight daily • €€ Gourmet Italian food served in stylish, minimalist surroundings.
10.Aigner
Französische Str. 25 • 030 203 751 850 • noon–2am daily • €€ Original Viennese restaurant serving typically Austrian food.