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1. South Walton
Sparkling beaches and village charm
Grayton Beach, a charming beach town
Lying between the high-rise buildings in Fort Walton and Panama City are 26 miles (42 km) of the finest beaches in Florida. The South Walton shoreline boasts sand that is almost pure quartz crystal, dazzling white to the eye, and soft underfoot. Lined with a string of low-rise, quiet villages, the beaches are great for families. Just under half of the region is preserved as state parks and forests, and opportunities for recreation are plentiful.
Key Sights
1. Baytowne Wharf This lively enclave along the shores of Choctawhatchee Bay has boutiques, eateries, and the Baytowne Wharf Adventure Zone with a climbing wall and a zip line for adventure-lovers.
2. The Artists at Gulf Place This cooperative artists’ colony and open-air market in Santa Rosa Beach is one of many colorful spots in South Walton where local art is featured.
3. Grayton Beach A laid-back town with narrow, oyster-shell-paved lanes, this is the oldest community on the shore. Here, weathered cottages blend with modern beach houses, shaded by pine and oaks.
4. Grayton Beach State Park Award-winning beaches, pine forest, and a nature trail through the dunes with views of scenic Western Lake make this park a special retreat.
5. Eden Gardens State Park The restored, antique-filled Wesley House, a typical Southern mansion of the 19th century, inspires visions of hoop skirts and Scarlett O’Hara in Gone With the Wind. Picnic along Tucker Bayou, and explore a nature trail and lush gardens shaded by moss-draped live oaks.
6. Seaside Developed in the 1980s, this planned village has quaint pastel-colored cottages, and lanes laced with sandy paths that lead to the beach, shops, and restaurants.
7. Timpoochee Trail Running the full length of Scenic Highway 30A, this superb 23-mile (37-km) bike path winds through the beach communities, along coastal dune lakes, and through picturesque scenery with views of the Gulf of Mexico.
8. Rosemary Beach Inspired by the Seaside model of a walkable village, this town has a mix of architecture, some with a New Orleans influence, and a wide village green.
The Lowdown
Address Baytowne Wharf: 9300 US Hwy 98 W, Destin, 32550; www.baytownewharf.com. The Artists at Gulf Place: 40 Town Loop Center, 32459; www.artistsatgulfplace.com. Grayton Beach State Park: 357 Main Park Rd, 32459; floridastateparks.org. Eden Gardens State Park:181 Eden Gardens Rd, 32459; floridastateparks.org
Car Rent a car from Northwest Florida Regional Airport.
Open Grayton Beach State Park & Eden Gardens State Park: 8am–sunset
Prices Grayton Beach State Park & Eden Gardens State Park: $5 per vehicle. Baytowne Wharf Adventure Zone: check www.tinyurl.com/BWharfAdv.
Activities Hiking, canoeing, and kayaking in the state parks.
Good family value?
South Walton combines beach fun and sightseeing for the whole family, with few expenses.
Letting off steam
Deer Lake State Park (6350 E County Rd, 30-A, Santa Rosa Beach, 32459; 850 267 8300) and Point Washington State Forest, south of Freeport on I-98, have excellent hiking paths. For canoeing and kayaking, head to Topsail Hill Preserve State Park (7525 W Scenic Hwy 30-A, Santa Rosa Beach, 32459; 850 267 8330).
View of the Gulf of Mexico from Deer Lake State Park, Santa Rosa Beach
Eat and drink
Picnic: under $25; Snacks: $25–50; Real meal: $50–80; Family treat: over $80 (based on a family of four)
PICNIC Modica Market (109 Central Square, Seaside, 32459; 850 231 1214) offers fixings to enjoy a fine picnic at the Seaside beach.
SNACKS Pickles Beachside Grill (2236 Scenic Hwy 30-A, Seaside, 32459; 850 231 5686; www.sweetwilliamsltd.com) has hot dogs, chili cheese dogs, burgers, fried pickles, and funnel cakes.
REAL MEAL Bud & Alley’s (2236 E County Rd, 30-A, Seaside; 850 231 5900; www.budandalleys.com) is a great spot for lunch on the deck with sandwiches and a pizza-pasta bar. There is also a kids‘ menu.
FAMILY TREAT Fish Out of Water (Watercolor Inn, off Scenic Hwy 30-A, Watercolor, 32459; 850 534 5050) serves up the area’s best gourmet dinner fare – fresh seafood, chicken, and beef – in comfortable, informal settings with wonderful sea views.
Shopping
Big Mama’s Hula Girl Gallery (303 E. Ruskin Pl, Seaside, 32459; 850 231 6201) is just one of the funky galleries that abound in South Walton’s villages, with folk art that will delight all ages. Bargain-hunters can head to Silver Sands Preium Outlets (10562 Emerald Coast Pkwy, 32550; 850 654 9771) for popular brands such as Esprit, Gap Kids, and OshKosh B’gosh.
KIDS’ CORNER
Beach fun
Digging in the sand, playing in the waves, and building sand castles are some of the popular activities on the Panhandle's beaches. What else would you add to the list?
Trial by kite
Around 300 years ago, judges in the US flew kites above people accused of crimes. They believed that the kite would dip down over a guilty person.
Taking off
South Walton’s beaches are perfect for kite-flying. Probably the most famous kite-flyer in history was American politician Benjamin Franklin, who, in 1752, flew a kite into a storm cloud to see if electricity would be conducted down its string. A key was attached near the bottom. The kite was struck by lightning and, when Franklin moved his hand toward the key, a spark jumped across and he felt shock, proving that lightning was electrical. Don't try this at home – it could be fatal!
Try:
Kite-flying, frisbee-throwing, sunbathing, beach volleyball, surfing, swimming, and many more.
2. Air Force Armament Museum
Take flight
Inside the cockpit of an aircraft at the Air Force Armament Museum, Fort Walton
This museum is located on the Eglin Air Force Base, home of the Air Armament Center (AAC), which is responsible for the development of air-delivered weapons. Start outside the building, where there is a lineup of over 20 military planes to inspect. These date from World War I to the present, and include the SR-71 Blackbird, the fastest plane ever built. It can fly at over 2,200 mph (3,520 km/h)! Inside the museum are four more vintage aircraft and an amazing collection of bombs, missiles, and rockets, as well as interactive displays including one that works the controls of a mock cockpit. Check out other fascinating exhibits, such as “bunker busters,” bombs that can hit targets deep underground. There is also a 30-minute film that illustrates the AAC’s history and accomplishments.
The Lowdown
Address 100 Museum Dr (State Rd 85), Eglin Air Force Base, 32542; 850 651 1808; www.afarmamentmuseum.com
Car From Fort Walton Beach
Open 9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat
Price Free
Age range 8 plus
Allow 2–3 hours
Wheelchair access Yes
Eat and drink PICNIC Publix (610 Eglin Pkwy NE, Fort Walton Beach, 32547; 850 862 6789; www.publix.com), one of the Florida-wide supermarket chains, is well stocked with goodies for a picnic at Okaloosa Island. REAL MEAL IHOP (348 SW Miracle Strip Pkwy, Fort Walton Beach, 32548; 850 243 9333; www.ihop.com) serves pancakes day and night, along with omelets, sandwiches, and burgers. The kids’ menu features a “Create a Face” pancake with strawberry eyes and a banana smile.
Letting off steam
Head 5 miles (8 km) south to Okaloosa Island, Fort Walton’s beach community. This long strand stretching out to the neighboring town of Destin is accessed by bridges at each end. There is plenty of space on the beach for running around, and quiet picnic areas. The less crowded beaches are closer to Destin. Visit the Gulfarium Marine Adventure Park (www.gulfarium.com), a small aquarium, and the diminutive but fun Emerald Coast Science Center (www.ecscience.org) nearby.
Great blue heron at St. Andrews State Park, Panama City
3. Gulf World Marine Park
Q & A sessions on sea life
An educational facility, this park is a contributor to the Gulf World Marine Institute that works to rescue and rehabilitate marine mammals before releasing them back into the wild. Activities include a delightful magic show that features spectacular illusions, comedy acts, special effects, and interactions with the audience. The aquarium’s inhabitants include sharks, alligators, penguins, iguanas, and sea turtles. Watch the feeding sessions, as well as underwater scuba demonstrations, before heading for the stingrays that await visitors.
The Lowdown
Address 15412 Front Beach Rd, Panama City Beach, 32413; 850 234 5271; www.gulfworldmarinepark.com
Car From Fort Walton Beach
Open 9am–7pm in summer; 9:30am–4:30pm rest of the year
Price $80-100; under 4s free
Activities Kids aged 5 plus can sign up for the Swim with the Dolphins program. Check website for details.
Age range All ages
Allow 3–4 hours
Wheelchair access Yes
Eat and drink PICNIC Publix (23026 Panama City Beach Pkwy, 32413; 850 233 4392; www.publix.com) has all the ingredients for a fine picnic at the beach. REAL MEAL Schooners (5121 Gulf Dr, Panama City Beach, 32408; 850 235 3555; www.schooners.com), an informal eatery on the waterfront, has something for everyone. It serves salads, wings, burgers, grouper sandwiches, and fish tacos.
4. ZooWorld Zoological & Botanical Conservatory
A small animal kingdom
This little local zoo offers up-close views of over 250 animals in a tropical garden setting. Children can learn all about parrots, reptiles, and alligators at the live shows, and even pose for pictures with them. The petting zoo houses lots of farm animals for feeding, as well as a camel. A raised walkway allows for a special treat: feeding Sydney the giraffe. The zoo is especially recommended for younger children.
The Lowdown
Address 9008 Front Beach Rd, Panama City Beach, 32407; 850 233 1243; www.zooworldpcb.net
Car From Fort Walton Beach
Open 9:30am–5pm daily; last admission 4pm
Price $48-62; under 4s free
Activities The zoo organizes many educational animal shows; check website for schedule.
Age range 3 plus
Allow 3 hours
Eat and drink SNACKS Mike’s Café and Oyster Bar (17554 Front Beach Rd, Panama City Beach, 32413; 850 234 1942; www.mikescafeandoysterbar.com) has a simple, diner-like decor and lunch choices such as seafood baskets, salads, and sandwiches to please grown-ups, as well as a bargain children’s menu. FAMILY TREAT Captain Anderson’s Restaurant (5551 N Lagoon Dr, Panama City Beach, 32408; 850 234 2225; www.captanderson.com; closed Sun) is a longtime local dinner favorite for steaks and the freshest of seafood. The restaurant claims to serve the “world’s best seafood platter.” Kids will find their own special menu.
KIDS’ CORNER
Find out...
1 How fast is the fastest plane in the world, the SR-71 Blackbird?
2 How high can the SR-71 Blackbird fly?
3 What is the name of the bomb that can hit targets underground?
4 What is the name of the radar-guided missile that can fire at many targets at once?
Giraffe Geography
Giraffes are the tallest animals in the world. They can grow up to 19 ft (5.7 m) tall, and have very long necks that help them to reach for tender leaves growing on trees – their favorite food. They sleep standing up, which must be a lot easier than trying to get that long body to lie down.
Seashore scavenger hunt
How many of these can you find at the beach?
1 A bird on the sand
2 A bird in the air
3 A smooth pebble
4 A crab
5 A broken shell
6 A whole shell
7 Sea grass
8 A sand dune
9 A beach umbrella
Answers:
1 Over 2,200 miles (3,520 km) per hour. 2 Above 80,000 ft (24,348 m). 3 Bunker Buster. 4 AMRAAM (Advanced Medium-Range Air-to-Air Missile).
5. Pensacola
Beaches and the Blue Angels
Costumed guides in the Historic Pensacola Village
A distinct Southern accent borrowed from the neighboring state of Alabama, and influences from a colorful past, give Pensacola a unique flavor. The Historic Pensacola Village, its oldest quarter, comprises 27 buildings and museums reflecting 450 years of history. Two of the city’s best family attractions are the superb sands of the Gulf Islands National Seashore and tours of the National Naval Aviation Museum, where the famous Blue Angels stunt flyers practice.
Key Sights
1. Museum of Commerce This reconstruction of Pensacola’s late 19th- and early 20th-century streetscape features a print workshop, and leather and harness shops.
2. Pensacola Children’s Museum Its many imaginative exhibits and dress-up period clothing make this museum a great place to take younger kids.
3. Museum of Industry Exhibits depicting the industries that helped build the city – fishing, brick-making, lumber, and railroads – include a vintage fishing boat and a 1905 locomotive.
4. Seville Square The heart of Pensacola when the area was first settled by the Spanish, this square served as the parade ground for the Fort of Pensacola during British rule in the 1770s.
5. British Officer’s Compound Built during the early years of the American Revolution, this compound’s foundations are among the many finds that form Pensacola’s Colonial Archaeological Trail.
6. Pensacola Museum of Art Once a jail, this building now houses contemporary art, decorative glass, and African tribal art.
7. Barkley House Built in 1825, this is the oldest surviving example of a “high-house” in the city. Tours of the Historic Pensacola Village include a stop at the house, where visitors can learn about the Barkley family.
Letting off steam
The US 98, leading south to Pensacola Beach on Santa Rosa Island, passes through the community of Gulf Breeze, and the glorious Gulf Islands National Seashore. Go to the Naval Live Oaks area (www.nps.gov), on the US 98 east of Gulf Breeze, for miles of picturesque nature trails and swimming in Santa Rosa Sound. There is also a campground with a covered picnic pavilion, restrooms, and outdoor showers. Maps are available at the park’s Visitor Center (1801 Gulf Breeze Pkwy, 32561; 850 934 2600).
Enjoying a meal at the popular New Yorker Deli & Pizzeria
Eat and drink
Picnic: under $25; Snacks: $25–50; Real meal: $50–80; Family treat: over $80 (based on a family of four)
PICNIC New Yorker Deli & Pizzeria (3001 E Cervantes St, 32503; 850 469 0029) offers a variety of sandwiches for a picnic in Seville Square.
SNACKS Santino’s Pizza (Bruno's Shopping Center, 368 Gulf Breeze Pkwy, Gulf Breeze, 32561; 850 932 1211; www.santinospizza.net) serves pizza, salads, and brownies.
REAL MEAL Dharma Blue (300 S Alcaniz St, 32501; 850 433 1275) is located in leafy Seville Square, and offers a wide-ranging menu, from sandwiches to paella. There is an appealing children’s menu too.
FAMILY TREAT Fish House (600 S Barracks St, 32502; 850 470 0003; www.goodgrits.com), on the bay, serves the freshest Gulf seafood, with Southern sides such as cheese grits, collard greens, and corn fritters.
Shopping
The Quayside Art Gallery (17 E Zarragossa St, 32502; www.quaysidegallery.com) is southeastern Florida's largest cooperative artists‘ gallery. Go to the Blue Moon Antique Mall (3721 W Navy Blvd, 32507; 850 455 7377) for old postcards, toys, jewelry, vintage pottery, and glassware.
Outer walls of Fort Pickens, a massive brick fort at Gulf Islands National Seashore
The Lowdown
Address Pensacola 32502. Museum of Commerce: 201 E Zarragossa St; 850 595 1559. Pensacola Children’s Museum: 115, E Zarragossa St; 850 595 1559. Museum of Industry: 120 E Church St; 850 595 5985. Pensacola Museum of Art: 407 South Jefferson St; 850 432 6247; www.pensacolamuseumofart.org. Barkley House: 10 S Florida Blanca St; 850 595 5993, call ahead; historicpensacola.org
Bus Escambia County Area Transit (ECAT) buses serve many areas, but the wait between buses can be an hour or more. It’s best to rent a car.
Visitor information Pensacola Bay Area Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1401 E Gregory St, 32502; 800 874 1234; www.visitpensacola.com
Open Tickets for visiting the sights in the Historic Pensacola Village can be purchased at the Tivoli High House Gift Shop (205 E Zarragossa St, 32502; 850 595 5993; 10am–4pm Tue–Sat).
Price Historic Pensacola Village: $28–32; under 4s free. An individual visit to the T. T. Wentworth, Jr. Florida State Museum is half price on Sun.
Guided tours The village runs 1–1½-hour tours at 11am, 1pm & 2:30pm, which include the Lavalle House, the 1871 Dorr House, the 1832 Old Christ Church & the 1890 Lear-Rocheblave House. Walking tours, at 2pm, cover Zarragossa Street and the Barkley House.
Age range 6 plus
Allow 1 day
Festival Blue Angels Air Shows (Jul & Nov)
Good family value?
Reasonably priced tickets, free museum visits and a walk through the historical district, all make Pensacola an exciting destination.
Next stop...
FORT PICKENS World War II gun emplacements are some of the military artifacts that come to life at Fort Pickens (www.npa.gov), 8 miles (13 km) southwest of Pensacola. Completed in 1834, it was the largest of four forts built to defend Pensacola Bay. National Park Service Rangers lead tours at 2pm daily.
KIDS’ CORNER
Test your Pensacola IQ
1 The flags of five different countries have flown over Pensacola during its long history. Which country was the first, and which was the last?
2 Pensacola got its name from the Native American tribe that greeted the first Spanish explorers in 1559. What were they called?
3 Which city was the original capital of Florida?
Miles of bliss
Along Florida’s heavily built-up shoreline are some magical stretches of unspoiled beach, known as National Seashores, and preserved by the US government for public recreation. The Gulf Islands National Seashore (www.nps.gov/guis) offers superb boat rides, and campgrounds.
Did you know…
In 1559, Pensacola became the first European settlement in the US. But it didn’t last. A month later, a hurricane destroyed supplies, causing the Spanish to flee.
Living in the past
The homes in the Historic Pensacola Village depict how kids lived many years ago. If you had existed then, your family would have done the washing by hand, dipped candles for light, and made their own clothes. Which parts of your life today would you miss?
Answers:
1 Spain; USA. 2 Panzacola Indians. 3 Pensacola.
6. National Naval Aviation Museum
Spacecraft and fighter planes
A Blue Angel pilot signing autographs
Located at the Pensacola Naval Air Station, a training ground for the US Navy and Marine Corps, this museum traces the history of aviation with thrilling displays. Its amazing exhibits include over 150 restored aircraft and spacecraft, dating from the era of the earliest biplanes to the Space Age, and the Mercury and Apollo space capsules. Hands-on elements include the chance to sit at the controls of a jet trainer, while practice sessions by the Blue Angel stunt pilots add to the excitement.
Key Features
1. MaxFlight Simulator High-tech video and real motion simulate the feeling of being on a mission in a high-speed fighter plane.
2. Sunken Treasures The two aircraft displayed here were used for training during World War II before they sank in Lake Michigan. They were recovered from the lake, remarkably well preserved by the cold water.
3. Cockpit Trainers Kids can climb into cockpits, including those of the A-4 Skyhawk and Corsair II, in this simulated flying experience.
4. The IMAX® Theater Four different features are shown daily on one of the largest IMAX® screens in the world. The Magic of Flight is a regular on the schedule.
5. Blue Angels Check out the display of four A-4 Skyhawks, used by the daredevil Blue Angels, suspended from the ceiling of a seven-story glass atrium.
6. USS Cabot Flight Deck See the replica of a flight deck, and the superstructure of a World War II aircraft carrier, complete with fighter planes.
7. Space Capsule Display Here, space exploration exhibits include a Skylab Command Module, a Mercury capsule, and a Moon Rover vehicle. Astronaut suits and memorabilia are also on display.
8. Biplane With one wing fixed above the other, biplanes were important early aircraft used in World War I. They are favorites in barnstorming air shows today.
9. Hangar Bay One On display are aircraft of the post-World War II era, including a Marine One presidential helicopter and a replica of the Apollo 17 lunar module. There is also a section on Coast Guard aircraft and prisoners of war.
The Lowdown
Address 1750 Radford Blvd, Suite C, Naval Air Station, 32508; 850 452 3604; www.navalaviationmuseum.org
Bus ECAT bus 57. Car Rent a car from Pensacola Gulf Coast Regional Airport.
Open 9am–5pm daily
Price Free
Cutting the line Arrive early as seats fill up fast for the Blue Angels practice flights (Mar–Nov: see website for dates and times). Pilots often come out to shake hands and sign autographs.
Guided tours Daily 20-min trolley tours of 50 aircraft outdoors at 10 & 11am, 1 & 2pm. Self-guided tours can be downloaded from the museum’s website.
Age range 6 plus
Activities Flight Adventure Deck tour at 1pm, 2pm & 3pm Mon–Fri, in which trained volunteers introduce visitors to hands-on exhibits. Watch the practice flights, weather permitting.
Allow At least 4 hours
Wheelchair access Yes
Café Cubi Bar Café
Restrooms On every level
Good family value?
The free museum is entertaining and watching the Blue Angels is an unforgettable experience.
Letting off steam
If kids need a break, head 8 miles (13 km) west to the Perdido Kids Park (3453 Nighthawk Lane, 32506) on Perdido Key. An imaginative multilevel wooden play area, it includes climbing areas such as mock forts, a lighthouse, a pirate ship, and Blue Angels planes. There is also a special toddler area, designed for children aged 2 to 5.
Eat and drink
Picnic: under $25; Snacks: $25–50; Real meal: $50–80; Family treat: over $80 (based on a family of four)
PICNIC Winn-Dixie Market (50 S Blue Angel Pkwy, 32506; 850 458 1375) offers the makings of a picnic that can be enjoyed on the museum’s lawn.
SNACKS Cubi Bar Café (Main Deck Level) serves nachos, hot dogs, sandwiches, and salads in a setting similar to the bar area of the famous Cubi Point Officers’ Club. Kids love the Whirly Bird, a make-your-own peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
REAL MEAL The Burger Factory (314 S Navy Blvd, 32507; 850 435 4155; www.theburgerfactory.net) offers a wide range of burgers with home-made dressings and sauces.
FAMILY TREAT Jackson’s Steak House (400 S Palafox St, 32502; 850 469 9898;), in Pensacola’s Historic District, serves prime steaks with prices to match. Children can order half portions.
Shopping
Everyone will enjoy the Museum Shop, which is well stocked with caps and T-shirts for all ages, kids’ clothing from infant bodysuits to aviator jackets, Blue Angels souvenirs, DVDs, flags, posters, and toys. The cute aviator bears wearing goggles, helmet, and scarf are irresistible.
Find out more
DIGITAL Learn about the exciting Blue Angels flight team and see a demo flight on www.blueangels.navy.mil. The museum website, www.navalaviationmuseum.com, has an electronic scrapbook with photos of important events in aviation history.
Entrance to the historic Fort Barrancas in Pensacola Bay
Next stop…
FORT BARRANCAS Located near the National Naval Aviation Museum, Fort Barrancas (3182 Taylor Rd, 32508; 850 455 5167; www.nps.gov/guis/planyourvisit/fort-barrancas-area.htm) is a two-part fort worth exploring. Its strategic location on a bluff overlooking Pensacola Bay inspired three nations – Britain, Spain, and the US – to build forts here. The Visitor Center screens an informative film. The Spanish Water Battery is a gentle 500-ft (152-m) walk, while the over-look near the fort’s entrance offers beautiful views of Pensacola Bay.
The kid-friendly Cubi Bar Café at the National Naval Aviation Museum
KIDS’ CORNER
How many can you find?
The museum has hundreds of aircraft on display. See how many of these you can find during your visit:
1 A6 Intruder
2 C117 Skytrain
3 J2F Duck
4 K47 Airship Control Car
5 OS2U Kingfisher
6 PBY Catalina Cutaway
7 RF-4B Phantom II
8 RR-5 Trimotor
The first naval air station
Pensacola was the site of the nation’s first naval air station, founded in 1914. It was here that pilots learned the special skills required to take off and fly from ships at sea.
The Blue Angels
Sixteen Navy and Marine officers are chosen to fly in the Blue Angels. The selection process requires them to apply formally, and they usually serve for two years. Pilots chosen must have at least 1,250 tactical jet flight-hours and the commanding officer, known as “The Boss,” must have 3,000 hours. The group has been flying since 1946 and they put on more than 70 shows each year.
Pilots to guide
The guides at the museum are volunteers – retired veterans who have first-hand flying experiences to share.
7. Tallahassee
Tons of Southern charm
The canopied Meridian Road, Tallahassee
Encircled by rolling hills and dotted with pine forests, this state capital has a rich Southern flavor. This former site of an Apalachee Indian settlement is now home to several historical museums. Located in the heart of the city, and spreading over several landscaped blocks, the Capitol Complex offers much to see and do for all ages. Pretty gardens, the nearby beaches, beautiful canopied roads, and a wide choice of dining venues are further lures to this city.
Key Sights
1. Florida State University This university is noted for its highly regarded music and theater departments, which stage concerts and plays during the school year.
2. Museum of Florida History Prehistoric mastodons, Native American exhibits, and a replica riverboat brings the state’s past to life in this excellent museum.
3. Florida State Capitol Built in 1977, the tower behind the Historic Capitol houses art exhibits on the main floor. The 22nd floor observation deck offers views for miles around.
4. Florida Historic Capitol Museum See the house and senate chambers, the governor’s suite, and the supreme court, all restored just as they were in the state’s original columned capitol.
5. Park Avenue Historic District This central chain of green parks is lined with 27 homes that predate the Civil War. Built around 1830, the oldest one, The Columns, houses the James Madison Institute.
6. Lake Ella One of Tallahassee’s many lakes, Lake Ella is centered by a spraying fountain and circled by a paved walking trail. The surrounding park has picnic tables and some quaint shops.
7. Goodwood Museum and Gardens Discover what life was like for kids in the South long ago in this 1834 plantation house, where much of the original art and furnishings have been restored.
The Lowdown
Address Florida State University: 600 W College Ave, 32306; www.fsu.edu. Museum of Florida History: 500 South Bronough St, 32399; www.museumoffloridahistory.com. Florida Historic Capitol Museum: 400 South Monroe St, 32399; www.flhistoriccapitol.gov. Goodwood Museum and Gardens: 1600 Miccosukee Rd,
32308; www.goodwoodmuseum.org
Car Rent a car from the Tallahassee Regional Airport. Bus Star Metro (talgov.com) buses cover much of the city.
Visitor information Tallahassee Visitor Information Center, 106 E Jefferson St, 32301; 800 628 2866; www.visittallahassee.com
Open Museum of Florida History and Florida Historic Capitol Museum: 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4:30pm Sat & noon–4:30pm Sun. Goodwood Museum and Gardens: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri & 10am–2pm Sat
Prices Museum of Florida History and Florida Historic Capitol Museum: free. Goodwood Museum and Gardens: $30–36; under 3s free
Guided tours Florida State Capitol’s Welcome Center has self-guided tour brochures.
Allow 2–3 days
Restrooms In the museums and public parks
Good family value?
Most attractions are free and the city offers a unique look at American history.
Dog Et Al, a populat spot for hot dogs in Tallahassee
Letting off steam
Tallahassee has excellent parks with wooded areas and lakes. Tom Brown Park (1125 Easterwood Dr, 32312) has tennis courts and nature trails. The Elinor Klapp- Phipps Park (4000 N Meridian Rd, 32308) offers 10 miles (16 km) of trails, including Bluebird and Butterfly trails.
Take cover
Visit the Challenger Learning Center (200 S Duval St, 32301; 850 645 7827; www.challengertlh.com), which features shows such as Hubble Space Telescope at its IMAX® Theater.
8. Mission San Luis
Time travel back to the 1600s
A cannon on display in the gardens at Mission San Luis
Costumed interpreters bring to life a reconstruction of one of Florida’s rarest sites: a 1600s mission that was shared by Spanish settlers and the native Apalachee Indians. This unusual cooperation worked because the Spanish needed labor and provisions while the Apalachee Indians wanted peace and prestige. The arrangement lasted until 1704, when both groups fled from British invaders. See the enormous, five-story Indian Council House with its palm-thatched roof. It stands next to a Franciscan church that was constructed by the Apalachee Indians under Spanish supervision. The defensive fort, El Castillo de San Luis, has been re-created, and a Spanish home and working gardens portray everyday life in a community of 1,600 people. The excellent on-site museum traces the archaeological excavations of the area and displays artifacts found during the digs, such as tools and pottery.
The Lowdown
Address 2100 West Tennessee St, 32304; 850 245 6406; www.missionsanluis.org
Car Rent a car from Tallahassee Regional Airport.
Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun
Price $12–14; under 6s free
Activities Choose from musket firing demonstrations (11am–noon Sat), Historical Happenings presentations, Colonial crafts for children, archaeology lab tours, historic gardening tours, blacksmithing, and historical cooking classes. Check website for schedules.
Age range 6 plus
Allow 2–3 hours
Eat and drink PICNIC Publix Super Market (800 Ocala Rd, 32304; 850 575 6997; www.publix.com) offers the makings for a lunch to be enjoyed at picnic tables in the Mission grounds. REAL MEAL Wells Brothers (1710 W Tharpe St, 32303; 850 942 6665; www.wellsbrothersbarandgrill.com) serves salads, sandwiches, burgers, and burritos.
Festival Winter Solstice Celebration, a festival of Native American culture (Dec)
A re-enactor dressed as a blacksmith in Mission San Luis
9. Tallahassee Museum
A farm, a plantation, and a zoo – in a museum
Popular with children, this sprawling, multifaceted museum can entertain for hours. Visit farm animals such as cows, sheep, goats, and pigs in the Big Bend Farm, an 1880s farm complete with reconstructed and restored buildings. The garden grows crops such as corn, cotton, and sugarcane. The museum also has a zoo that features Florida wildlife in natural habitats – there are black bears, a red wolf, a black panther, bobcats, playful river otters, and a Florida alligator. Other attractions include a restored plantation that has an original home, a kitchen, and a slave cabin – a dwelling that tells of a time when slaves were brought from Africa against their will to work the fields on Southern plantations. Families can take a walk on the nature trail, head indoors to experience the hands-on exhibits in the Discovery Center, or discover underwater life in the Fleischmann Natural Science building. The latter has two small freshwater aquariums and an observation window to watch birds feeding outside.
The Lowdown
Address 3945 Museum Dr, 32310; 850 575 1636; www.tallahasseemuseum.org
Car Rent a car from Tallahassee Regional Airport.
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun
Price $33-42; under 3s free
Activities The museum offers family and youth programs; check website for schedule.
Age range All ages
Allow 4 hours
Wheelchair access Yes
Eat and drink PICNIC Metro Deli (104 1/2 South Monroe, 32301; 850 224 6870; www.metrodelis.com) has a Metro Box Lunch that offers a choice of sandwiches or wraps, chips, a cookie and a drink. Enjoy it in the museum’s spacious grounds. REAL MEAL The Trail Break Café (on site) has a variety of sandwiches and a “Bug Bites” children’s meal which includes a toy, a drink, chips, and a choice of corn dog, chicken nuggets, grilled cheese, or a hot dog.
Festival Jazz and Blues Festival (late Mar)
10. Alfred B. Maclay Gardens State Park
A floral wonderland
Alfred B. Maclay, a New York financier, and his wife Louise planned the gardens in the grounds of their winter home in 1923. This blooming oasis, with over 200 varieties of plants, is a vision in late winter and early spring, when camellias, dogwoods, and azaleas are in flower. The season lasts from January to April, with the beauty at its peak in March. Brick walkways and pine needle paths make for a serene stroll through landscapes that include a walled garden, ponds, fountains, and a lovely lake. Look for the narrow path leading to a secret garden. This secluded spot shelters small plants and has pretty wrought-iron benches that are perfect for a break. Lake Hall provides opportunities for swimming, fishing, canoeing, and kayaking, and two nature trails through the woods overlook the lake. Still furnished as it was when the owners were in residence, the Maclay House is open for visits from January through April.
The Lowdown
Address 3540 Thomasville Rd, 32309; 850 487 4556; www.floridastateparks.org/maclaygardens
Car Rent a car from Tallahassee Regional Airport.
Open Gardens: 9am–5pm daily
Price $15–18; under 2s free. $6 per vehicle for parking and additional fee Jan–Apr, when gardens are in bloom
Guided tours From Jan–Apr, guided tours are offered on most Sats and Suns. A Gardens Walking Tour brochure is available at the Ranger Station.
Age range 5 plus
Allow 2–3 hours
Eat and drink PICNIC The Fresh Market (1390 Village Square Blvd, Ste 4, 32312; 850 907 1392; www.thefreshmarket.com) offers gourmet fixings for a picnic. Pavilions and grills along the Lake Hall shore provide the perfect setting for a picnic. REAL MEAL Red Elephant Pizza and Grill (1872 Thomasville Rd, Suite A, 32303; 850 222 7492; www.redelephantpizza.com) serves pizza, burgers, sandwiches, and desserts. It also has a kids’ menu.
Take cover
A short drive south is Books-a-Million (3521 Thomasville Road, 32308; 850 893 3131; www.booksamillion.com), a bookstore well stocked with choices to please all ages, from tots to teens, as well as a range of genres for adults. Be prepared to be wheedled into a purchase.
KIDS’ CORNER
Official questions...
1 You can see Florida’s official state animal and state reptile at the zoo at Tallahassee Museum. What are they?
2 If you are lucky, you might spot the official Florida state bird around the museum’s grounds. What is it?
3 The Alfred B. Maclay Gardens have hundreds of blooms, but you probably won’t see the official state flower unless you visit an orange grove. What is it?
A Really Big House
The council house at Mission San Luis is one of the largest Apalachee Indian structures ever. It is wider than the length of a football field, and 100,000 palm fronds were used to cover the roof.
Play ball
Drawings at Mission San Luis show a ball game that was played here by the Apalachee Indians hundreds of years ago. The game involved 50 or more players using a ball about the size of a golf ball, made of hardened clay and covered with buckskin. The triangular goal post was crowned by the target: an eagle’s nest. The game was dedicated to the gods of rain and playing it was supposed to ensure water for crops.
Answers:
1 Black panther and alligator. 2 Mockingbird. 3 Orange blossom.
11. Wakulla Springs State Park
Gator-gazing, swims, and walks
Tour boats at the jetty in Wakulla Springs State Park
A popular location for Tarzan movies in the past, Wakulla is home to one of the world’s deepest natural springs. Spot alligators, turtles, and birds of all shapes and sizes on one of the park’s daily ranger-led riverboat tours. An observation platform offers superb views of the springs, and a safe area has been set aside for swimming; the crystal- clear waters are also great for snorkeling. A 6-mile (10-km) hiking trail weaves through a hardwood forest of magnolia oak, beech, and hickory, as well as a longleaf pine forest. Be sure to decide in advance how far to walk, as this is not a loop trail. Built in Mediterranean style in the 1930s, the park’s handsome Wakulla Springs Lodge is on the National Register of Historic Places.
Take cover
If it rains, head for the Wakulla Springs Lodge and enjoy a treat at the Soda Fountain.
The Lowdown
Address 465 Wakulla Park Dr, Wakulla Springs, 32327; 850 561 7276; www.floridastateparks.org/wakullasprings
Car Rent a car from Tallahassee.
Open 8am–sunset daily
Price 6 per vehicle. Boat tours $21–26, under 3s free
Guided tours The park offers 40–60-min guided riverboat tours with plenty of wildlife viewing opportunities. Glass-bottom boat tours are also available.
Age range 5 plus
Activities Swimming, biking, and hiking
Allow 3–4 hours
Eat and drink SNACKS The Soda Fountain (Wakulla Springs Lodge; 850 421 2000; www.wakullaspringslodge.com) boasts the world’s longest marble counter top, and has milk shakes, sodas, hot dogs, and sandwiches. REAL MEAL The Ball Room Restaurant (Wakulla Springs Lodge) serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Navy Bean Soup and Southern fried chicken are among the specialties, and views from here are lovely.
12. San Marcos de Apalache Historic State Park
Biking, hiking, birds, and a historic fort
Entrance to the elegant Wakulla Springs Lodge, Wakulla Springs State Park
This state park is situated in the tiny historic fishing town of St. Marks on Apalachee Bay. The flags waving over the entrance mark a site fought over by Spanish, English, American, and Confederate forces. Though the first Spanish settlement here was built in 1528, the original fort, now a National Historic Landmark, was built in 1679. The fort was later replaced by a stone fortress. A museum in the park exhibits pottery and tools unearthed near the original fort; and displays and a video reveal the site’s colorful history.
Although a small town today, St. Marks was once a major port. Built in 1830 to bring cotton from Tallahassee plantations, the railroad is known today as the Tallahassee-St. Marks Historic Railroad Trail State Park, a paved 16-mile (26-km) trail for hikers and bikers ending at the St. Marks waterfront.
Letting off steam
Only the Everglades can boast more species of birds than the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge (www.fws.gov/saintmarks), located 5 miles (3 km) southwest of the state park. The refuge has forests, swamps, marshes, and a saltwater estuary, which explains the huge variety of birds. It also has Florida’s second-oldest lighthouse, built around 1830. The Visitor Center has road and trail maps, including part of the Florida National Scenic Trail.
The Lowdown
Address 148 Old Fort Rd, St. Marks, 32355; 850 925 6216; www.floridastateparks.org/sanmarcos
Car Rent a car from Tallahassee.
Visitor information St. Marks Visitor Center, 15 Old Palmetto Path, St. Marks, 32355; 850 925 0400; www.cityofstmarks.com
Open 9am–5pm Thu–Mon
Price Free. Museum: $8–12, under 5s free
Guided tours The park offers a self-guided trail winding through the historic ruins. Guided tours available with two weeks’ notice.
Age range 6 plus
Activities Families can hike trails and explore the fort ruins.
Allow 2 hours
Eat and drink PICNIC Bo Lynn’s Grocery (850 Port Leon Dr, 32355; 850 925 6156) stocks provisions for a picnic in the state park or the refuge. REAL MEAL Riverside Café (69 Riverside Dr, 32355; 850 925 5668) is an informal eatery where the menu ranges from wings and burgers to full dinners. Grouper sandwiches are one of the favorites here.
Festival St. Marks Stone Crab Festival (mid-Oct)
13. Apalachicola
Oyster town
Jetty at Apalachicola Bay, near the town of Apalachicola
A major seaport when cotton was coming down from northern Florida’s plantations, this quaint little town waned after the Civil War (1861–5). But it has a wonderfully walkable Historic District, with many beautifully restored homes and warehouses. Start with the walking tour map from the Information Center and take a look at the town’s 50-plus pre-Civil War buildings, many of which house gift shops and restaurants. Today, the town relies on the sea for its livelihood, and is famous for its oysters. A variety of boat trips take visitors out into Apalachicola Bay.
The Lowdown
Car Rent a car from Tallahassee.
Visitor information 122 Commerce St, 32320; 850 653 9419; www.apalachicolabay.org
Guided tours Backwater Guide Service (Scipio Creek Marina, 32320; 850 899 0063) offers guided fishing and wildlife tours. Alternatively, learn how to tong and cull your own oysters on Captain Doug’s oyster boat with Affordable Fishing (604 Wilderness Rd, Eastpoint, 32320; 850 524 5985)
Age range All ages
Activities Kids will enjoy Grady Market (76 Water St, 32320; 850 653 4099; www.apalachicolabay.com) with its ships and maritime memorabilia. Browse through toys, games, and souvenirs at Kids Port (21 Ave C, 32320; 850 653 2899). Stop at the John Gorrie Museum (46 6th St, 32320; 850 653 9347) to see the ice-making machine that Gorrie patented in 1851, marking the beginning of air conditioning.
Allow A day
Eat and drink SNACKS Old Time Soda Fountain (93 Market St, 32320; 850 653 2606) has a vintage 1950s-style interior. The menu offers sandwiches, as well as sodas and ice cream. REAL MEAL Boss Oyster (River Inn, 123 Water St, 32320; 850 653 9364) is the place to try the town’s specialty – it offers oysters in 17 different ways. Kids can go for seafood pizza.
Festival Florida Seafood Festival (early Nov)
Letting off steam
Located about 15 miles (24 km) east of Apalachicola on a barrier island, St. George Island State Park (www.floridastateparks.org/stgeorgeisland) boasts 9 miles (14 km) of pristine, dune-backed beach, with pavilions for picnics, as well as a lighthouse. The 2½-mile (4-km) trail to Gap Point meanders through a pine forest to Apalachicola Bay. The 1-mile (2-km) East Slough Trail offers boardwalks and resting benches.
Palm trees lining the path to the lighthouse, St. George Island State Park
KIDS’ CORNER
Do you know…
1 How many flags have flown over Fort San Marcos de Apalache?
2 A famous movie series was filmed at Wakulla Springs. Who was the main character?
3 Can you guess how many varieties of birds can be spotted in St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge?
All about Oysters
Apalachicola Bay once produced 90 percent of Florida’s oysters. Fluctuations in water salinity reduced the harvest briefly, but it’s on the rise again. Harvesting isn’t easy since oysters live in beds at the bottom of the sea. They are gathered with a scoop-shaped net of metal mesh attached to the back of a boat.
Rails to trails
Modern highways and airplane services have meant that many older railroad tracks are no longer needed. Formed in 1986, the Rails to Trails Conservancy works to change the flat beds where rails used to be into paved paths for bikers and hikers. So far 20,000-plus miles (32,186 km) of rail-trail have been opened across the US. Visit www.railstotrails.org
Answers:
1 4. 2 Tarzan. 3 274.
Where to Stay in the Panhandle
From beach bungalows and condo resorts to city hotels, the Panhandle offers a wide range of accommodations. The numerous cottages and low-rise condos within walking distance of South Walton’s beaches are especially appealing for families.
AGENCIES
Ocean Reef Vacation Rentals
www.oceanreefresorts.com
This agency offers lodging options across South Walton, including the villages of Seagrove, Grayton Beach, and Santa Rosa.
Rosemary Beach Rentals
www.rosemarybeach.com
This website has links to agencies with properties ranging in size from two to seven bedrooms.
Price Guide
The following price ranges are based on one night’s accommodation in high season for a family of four, inclusive of service charges and additional taxes.
$ Under $150 $$ $150–300 $$$ over $300
These beachfront condos offer three swimming pools, a waterfall and a lazy river, along with barbecue grills and tables in the courtyard, and a children’s playground.
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This scenic park offers ample choices from a fully equipped campground and tent sites to one-bedroom bungalows and two-bedroom cabins. Cabins have full kitchens. Guests can take a free tram to the beach.
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