Eggs are more than a breakfast food. When the refrigerator is bare or when nothing else seems to excite my appetite, to me an egg is always the answer. Boiled, poached, scrambled just right, eggs are delicious and satisfying. The important thing is never to overcook eggs and always to serve them promptly, since their internal heat is still at work when you take them off the range or out of the oven.
Cheese is a natural partner to eggs: a senior partner in dishes like Welsh Rarebit, for which you use the pronounced flavor of Cheddar. It is what I’d call a cheese dish enhanced by eggs (as a binder and an enrichment). When the eggs are the senior partner, I like cheeses which have good melting qualities and great delicacy, like Switzerland Emmenthaler and Gruyère, Italian or Swedish fontina, and fresh mozzarella, sometimes with grated Parmesan, which is almost a seasoning in itself. The friendly egg gets along with almost any flavor, bland or strong, which of course gives you a vast range of dishes, as well as lots of ingenious uses for the small treasures in your refrigerator. If you roasted a couple of ducks for last night’s party, the livers are waiting for you today to be turned into a lovely shirred egg dish. If, like me, you freeze extra duxelles in small containers, you can always thaw one of them and have yourself a very special omelet on short notice. If one night you’re roasting peppers for an appetizer platter, reserve one to enhance the next day’s scrambled eggs or to concoct a frittata.
The recipes here emphasize combinations like these, based on classic methods, and then a few surprises, unusual dishes such as Peruvian Eggs, Manka’s Babies, and Malakoff; but I have not attempted to cover every technique of egg preparation, since I did a pretty thorough job in Theory & Practice. My goal here is to excite your imagination and broaden your menu planning. I want to remind you, for instance, of the stylish timbale, too long neglected, and, of course, of soufflés, some of which can even be baked in a crust. Since the basic ingredient is so economical, you can toss in an occasional luxury like caviar or lobster and achieve a magnificent dish at little cost to your purse or your conscience.
Hard-boiled eggs in onion sauce
Special stuffed eggs
with sardines
Scotch eggs
Scotch quail eggs
Old-fashioned pickled eggs
Shirred eggs
with duck livers and Madeira
with pesto
with ham
with Gruyère cheese
with spinach purée
Poached eggs
with sausage
eggs benedict
eggs benedictine
with vegetable purée
with spinach
with pâté
with roast fillet
eggs meurette
Huevos rancheros
with tortillas
with jalapeño peppers
Scrambled eggs
with mozzarella cheese
with roasted peppers
with prosciutto
with lamb kidneys
with alfalfa sprouts
in a tart shell
with tomatoes
with brains
Pipérade basquaise
Basic omelet
with fresh tomatoes
with spinach
with asparagus
with chili
with duxelles
with lamb kidney
with finnan haddie
with smoked salmon
with caviar and sour cream
with cheese
farmer’s omelet
omelette savoyarde
with chicken and curry
with shrimp
Cold layered omelet
Onion and zucchini frittata
artichoke frittata
prosciutto frittata
ham and potato frittata
frankfurter frittata
tomato and onion frittata
spinach frittata
spinach and bacon frittata
bean sprout and pork frittata
Vanessi special
with ham
with spinach
with beans and rice
Minina
Peruvian eggs
Lettuce timbales
with spinach
with watercress
with broccoli
with ham
with shrimp
with chicken
with lobster
with crabmeat
with basil
Salmon and sour cream roll
minced clam and sour cream roll
mushroom and sour cream roll
corn and sour cream roll
Marrow soufflé in pastry
cheese soufflé in pastry
spinach soufflé in pastry
ham soufflé in pastry
crabmeat soufflé in pastry
cheese soufflé with whole eggs in pastry
Savory crêpes
Manka’s babies
with ham
with roast beef
with spinach and cheese
with broccoli rabe and cheese
with strawberries and yogurt
Flemish leek pie
Gougères
Malakoff
Welsh rarebit
with poached egg or hamburger
with tomato juice
Swiss cheese salad
Deep-dish pizza
Hard-Boiled Eggs in Onion Sauce
(Les Oeufs à la Tripe)
I have never been able to discover the origin of the name of this traditional and exquisitely simple French dish, which I like to serve for breakfast, brunch, a light lunch, or a late supper.
Makes 2 to 3 eggs
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
4 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
A few gratings of nutmeg
1¼ cups light cream
4 or 5 hard-boiled eggs, cut in ½-inch slices
Sauté the onion in butter until soft and delicately golden. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 or 3 minutes to remove the raw taste of the flour. Add salt, freshly ground black pepper, and nutmeg, then gradually stir in the light cream, stirring until the sauce thickens. Let it simmer gently for 3 or 4 minutes to get a good flavor. If you wish, add a small pat of butter to enrich the sauce. Taste for seasoning, then carefully fold in the sliced eggs. Heat through quickly and serve on toast or small croutons of fried bread.
Special Stuffed Eggs
These are not the usual picnic eggs. They are very elegant, decorative, and tasty, and may be served as a salad, on a bed of greens.
Makes 24 eggs
2 dozen hard-boiled eggs, shelled
1 can mousse de foie gras or 1 cup homemade liver pâté
1 tablespoon sour cream
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 truffle, finely chopped
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
Cognac
24 truffle slices
Cut a thin slice from the broad end of each of the hard-boiled eggs to enable them to stand upright on the serving dish. Slice off enough of the small ends of the eggs so that you can remove the yolks. Mash the yolks well and mix with the mousse de foie gras or pâté, sour cream, parsley, chopped truffle, and salt and pepper to taste. Add enough cognac to make a good paste. Using the rosette point of a pastry bag, pipe the yolk mixture back into the eggs and finish off the top of each egg with a decorative swirl. Top each with a slice of truffle and chill well. You may also glaze the eggs with aspic, if you so desire.
Stuffed Eggs with Sardines. Mash the yolks with 3 tablespoons mayonnaise, then add 1 can boneless and skinless sardines, mashed, ½ cup finely chopped chives, ¼ teaspoon Tabasco, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly and pipe filling into the eggs. Top with chopped chives or parsley.
Scotch Eggs
These are one of the great British pub foods and something I just adore, either hot or cold. The spicy sausage meat is such a great contrast to the egg hidden within.
Makes 6 servings
6 hard-boiled eggs, shelled
Flour
1 pound well-seasoned sausage meat
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Bread crumbs
Oil for deep-frying
Lightly flour the eggs. Divide the sausage meat into 6 equal portions and flatten. With floured hands, wrap the sausage meat around the eggs, making a firm covering. The eggs should be completely encased. Dust with flour, dip in beaten egg and roll in crumbs. Deep-fry until the meat is nicely browned and cooked through. Drain on absorbent paper. Serve hot for lunch or a snack, cold as picnic food.
Scotch Quail Eggs. Use quail eggs in the same way and serve as cocktail food.
Old-Fashioned Pickled Eggs
Makes 24 eggs
2 dozen hard-boiled eggs, shelled
2 cups cooked beet slices
2 large onions, sliced very thin
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 bay leaf
Mild vinegar, such as cider vinegar
Place the hard-boiled eggs in a large jar or bowl, and add the sliced beets, onions, salt, sugar, and bay leaf. Add just enough vinegar to cover all the ingredients and cap the jar or cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Allow to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours.
To serve, arrange drained eggs, beets, and onions in a large bowl, moisten with some of the vinegar mixture, and serve as an accompaniment to meat salads, cold meats, and cheese. If you prefer, arrange the eggs in one bowl and the beets and onions in another.
Shirred Eggs
Achieving perfect shirred eggs, with a delicate white and a yolk that is still liquid, can be something of an art. They must be rushed from oven to table lest they continue to cook and become hard.
Makes 6 servings
½ pint heavy cream, approximately
6 eggs
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
Pour a small amount of heavy cream in the bottoms of 6 ramekins. Carefully break 1 egg into each ramekin, add a little more heavy cream, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake in a preheated 350° oven for about 8 minutes, or until the eggs have barely set.
Shirred Eggs with Duck Livers and Madeira. Oil the ramekin dishes, omitting the heavy cream. Add the eggs and place about 1 tablespoon finely chopped duck liver, sautéed briefly with finely chopped shallots and Madeira, on top of each. Season and bake as above.
Shirred Eggs with Pesto. Oil the ramekin dishes, omitting the heavy cream. Place about 1 tablespoon peeled, seeded, and finely chopped tomato and ½ teaspoon pesto on each egg. Season and bake as above.
Shirred Eggs with Ham. Oil the ramekin dishes, omitting the heavy cream and the salt. Top each egg with about 1 tablespoon finely chopped ham or frizzled Virginia ham, and season and bake as above.
Shirred Eggs with Gruyère Cheese. Pour a small amount of heavy cream on each egg and sprinkle with grated Gruyère cheese. Season and bake as above.
Shirred Eggs with Spinach Purée. Oil the ramekin dishes, omitting the heavy cream. Place 1 tablespoon spinach purée on top of each egg, and season and bake as above.
Poached eggs are more than breakfast food. I like to serve them as a first course or light luncheon dish on a bed of vegetable purée or brandade, on thin slices of pâté or meat, or Burgundy-style in a red wine sauce.
To poach eggs, put 2 or 3 inches of water, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon vinegar in a skillet and bring to a slow boil. Break each egg into a tiny cup, such as a Japanese tea cup, lower it into the water, and quickly tip out the egg. Don’t do more eggs than can be handled easily, about 2 or 3 at a time, depending on the size of the skillet. When the eggs are in the water, remove the pan from the heat and let the eggs poach gently in the hot water for 3 to 4 minutes, basting the tops with hot water, if necessary, until the whites are set and the yolks are filmed with white. Remove the eggs with a perforated skimmer to paper towels to drain. If you need to warm them again before serving, slip into simmering water for 30 seconds.
Poached Eggs with Sausage. Top hot sausage cakes with poached eggs and cover with freshly made hollandaise sauce (see page 532) or creamy cheese sauce (see page 531).
Eggs Benedict. Put a slice of sautéed ham or Canadian bacon on half a buttered toasted English muffin, top with a poached egg, cover with freshly made hollandaise sauce, and garnish with a sliver of black truffle.
Eggs Benedictine. Serve poached eggs on a bed of Brandade of Cod (see page 244).
Poached Eggs with Vegetable Purée. Serve the eggs on a bed of puréed vegetables. Good choices are asparagus, spinach, mustard greens, broccoli, rabe, tarragon-flavored beets, a blend of beets and carrots, or yellow turnips, then, if you like, top each egg with a strip of bacon.
Poached Eggs with Spinach. Serve the eggs on a slice of ham covered with a bed of spinach. Top with mornay sauce (page 531).
Poached Eggs with Pâté. Arrange thin slices of pâté or pâté de foie gras on toast; top with a poached egg.
Poached Eggs with Roast Fillet. Put thin slices of rare roast fillet on slices of toast or toasted halved English muffins. Serve with a sauce made from the pan juices reduced with shallots.
Eggs Meurette. For 6 eggs, combine in a skillet 1 bottle red wine, ¼ cup chopped shallots, 1 teaspoon thyme, and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, bring to a boil, and poach the eggs as before. Remove and drain the eggs. Boil the wine sauce down until reduced by half. Pour the sauce over the eggs and serve with triangles of toast for dipping.
Huevos Rancheros
Poached eggs with a spicy Mexican flavor.
Makes 6 servings
2 medium-size onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
⅓ cup olive oil
2 cups peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2½ teaspoons chili powder
1 tablespoon fresh basil, shredded, or ½ teaspoon dried basil, crumbled
6 poached eggs
Grated Parmesan cheese
In a heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, sauté the onions and garlic in the olive oil until transparent. Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, chili powder, and basil, and simmer, covered, until well blended and slightly thickened. Pour the sauce over the poached eggs and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Serve at once.
Huevos Rancheros with Tortillas. Serve each egg on top of a soft corn tortilla heated briefly in olive oil or a combination of olive oil and butter. Top with sauce and cheese, as above. The tortillas may be homemade, canned, or the kind sold in plastic packages in supermarkets.
Huevos Rancheros with Jalapeño Peppers. Sprinkle finely chopped or shredded jalapeño peppers on top of each egg—if you can stand the heat!
Scrambled Eggs
Although universally popular, scrambled eggs are far too often overcooked until they form hard, unappetizing little lumps. As I pointed out in Theory & Practice (see page 202), the main point when scrambling eggs is to know when to stop, as they continue cooking with their own internal heat after being removed from the stove. Like omelets and frittatas, scrambled eggs take gracefully to a variety of seasonings and flavorings.
2 eggs
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
Tabasco
1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon water
2 tablespoons butter
Beat the eggs lightly in a bowl with salt and pepper to taste and a dash or two of Tabasco, beating in the water if you like lighter, less “eggy” scrambled eggs. Melt the butter in a skillet (I prefer to use a Teflon-lined skillet) over medium-high heat. When hot but not sizzling, pour in the eggs and scramble with a wooden spatula; if you’re new at this, check the detailed directions given in Theory & Practice. When soft but not too runny, transfer the eggs to a plate.
Scrambled Eggs with Mozzarella Cheese. Just before the eggs are done to your taste, add 2 tablespoons chopped mozzarella cheese and proceed as above.
Scrambled Eggs with Roasted Peppers. When the eggs are just beginning to thicken, add 2 to 3 tablespoons finely chopped roasted peppers.
Scrambled Eggs with Prosciutto. When the eggs start to thicken, toss in 2 to 3 tablespoons prosciutto strips or cubes.
Scrambled Eggs with Lamb Kidneys. For each serving, sauté a lamb kidney lightly in butter, then purée in a food processor or chop very fine and stir into the eggs as they are beginning to set.
Scrambled Eggs with Alfalfa Sprouts. Top the eggs with 2 tablespoons fresh alfalfa sprouts.
Scrambled Eggs in a Tart Shell. Spread the bottom of a baked 9-inch tart shell with Dijon mustard. Heap with 4 or more servings of scrambled eggs into which you have folded ½ cup warm duxelles (see page 535) and sprinkle chopped parsley or crisp crumbled bacon on the top.
Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes. Peel, seed, and roughly chop tomatoes, mix with chopped fresh basil, and add 2 to 3 tablespoons of the mixture to the eggs just before they are done.
Scrambled Eggs with Brains. Parboil and cool brains according to directions on page 449. Cool until firm, then cut into small dice. Heat butter for the eggs, add brains, and toss in the hot butter for a few seconds, then add the eggs and scramble together. Serve garnished with watercress. This may also be served in large or small patty shells that have been heated in the oven.
A Basque version of eggs scrambled with sautéed vegetables.
Makes 4 servings
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 red or green bell peppers, roasted and cut into strips
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
4 medium-size tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon Tabasco
½ teaspoon thyme
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
6 eggs
5 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Heat the oil in a skillet, add the peppers, onion, garlic, tomatoes, Tabasco, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until lightly sautéed and soft, but not cooked down to a purée. Lightly beat the eggs. Heat the butter in a Teflon-lined skillet, add the eggs, spoon in the vegetable mixture, and stir over medium heat, as for scrambled eggs, until soft curds form. Serve immediately, sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Basic Omelet
I discussed in detail the making of a perfect omelet in Theory & Practice (see page 203), so I’m not going to repeat all the steps here. Once you have the technique down pat, it is one of the fastest, easiest, most versatile and economical of all light egg dishes, and the range of fillings is enormous. One omelet restaurant in New York City lists over a thousand on its menu, many of them just variations of mixtures of the same ingredients, others quite unusual.
For 1 individual omelet
2 large eggs
½ teaspoon salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
Dash of Tabasco
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon butter
Beat the eggs lightly with a fork, adding the seasonings and water, just enough to blend the yolks and whites. Heat a 9-inch omelet pan, preferably Teflon-lined, over high heat. Add the butter and swirl it around until melted and foaming. Quickly pour in the eggs and stir them lightly with the back of a fork, meanwhile shaking the pan over the burner with your other hand. When the eggs are set to the degree you like, add any desired filling. Then roll the omelet with the fork or a spatula, starting at the handle end of the pan. Tip omelet out onto the plate in a neat roll, edges underneath, and serve at once. Spoon any excess filling over the omelet before serving.
Fresh Tomato Omelet. Season ⅓ cup peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped ripe tomatoes with salt, pepper, and some fresh basil, chopped. Add to the omelet when it has set, just before you roll it.
Spinach Omelet. Add ⅓ cup cooked, drained, chopped, and buttered spinach.
Asparagus Omelet. Add ⅓ cup crisply cooked hot buttered asparagus tips.
Chili Omelet. Add ⅓ cup reheated leftover chili (see page 380).
With Duxelles. Add ⅓ cup duxelles (see page 535) to the omelet just as it is starting to set.
Lamb Kidney Omelet. Add ⅓ cup sautéed lamb kidneys, cut in small pieces and seasoned with a little prepared mustard and a tablespoon of sautéed onion.
Finnan Haddie Omelet. Add ⅓ cup creamed finnan haddie (smoked haddock).
Smoked Salmon Omelet. Add ⅓ cup smoked salmon, cut in strips and lightly tossed in butter.
Caviar and Sour Cream Omelet. Roll the basic omelet, make a slit in the top, and spoon in 2 tablespoons red or black caviar and 2 tablespoons sour cream.
Cheese Omelet. Add grated Parmesan, Cheddar, or Swiss, shredded mozzarella, crumbled feta, or Roquefort to the eggs just before they set, so the cheese can melt. Allow 2 to 3 tablespoons of cheese per omelet.
Farmer’s Omelet. Sauté cubed ham, diced cooked potato, and chopped onion in butter. Add ⅓ to each omelet.
Omelette Savoyarde. Make the omelet as directed, but do not roll it. Slip it, pancake fashion, onto a slice of broiled or fried ham, sprinkle liberally with grated Cheddar, Emmenthaler, or Gruyère cheese, and put under the broiler until the cheese melts.
Chicken and Curry Omelet. Sauté ⅓ cup chopped onion in 4 tablespoons butter with 1 tablespoon curry powder, or to taste. Add 1 tablespoon chutney, 2 teaspoons potato starch, 1 cup heavy cream, 2 teaspoons salt, and a dash of Tabasco. When sauce has thickened, add 1 cup chopped cooked or canned chicken.
Shrimp Omelet. Combine 1 cup chopped cooked shrimp (canned may be used) with 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 2 teaspoons dried tarragon or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, ¼ cup vegetable oil, and 2 teaspoons wine vinegar.
For other filling suggestions, see Theory & Practice, page 205.
Cold Layered Omelet
Makes 6 to 8 servings
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
18 large or extra-large eggs
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon Tabasco
¼ cup cold water
Butter
Omelet filling (see page 256)
FOR THE SAUCE
3 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ cups chicken broth
⅛ teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup heavy cream
1 egg yolk
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Lightly oil a 2- to 2½-quart glass bowl. Beat the eggs lightly with a fork, just enough to blend the yolks and whites, and add the seasonings and water. Follow the instructions for Basic Omelet (see page 255), using ½ cup of egg mixture for each omelet; don’t roll the omelets—just slip them out of the pan. Line the bowl with the omelets, covering the bottom and sides. Place ¼ cup of one of the suggested omelet fillings (page 256) in the center of the omelet at the bottom of the bowl. Add another omelet and another filling of your choice. Continue until the last omelet is used up—it should be on top.
For the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan and sauté the onion until lightly colored but not brown. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chicken broth, nutmeg, heavy cream beaten with the egg yolk, and cook until quite thick; do not allow the sauce to boil. Add the Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper, parsley, chives, and lemon juice. Blend thoroughly and pour over the omelets, allowing the sauce to run down the sides by pulling the omelets gently away from the sides of the bowl as you pour the sauce. Cool and refrigerate to chill thoroughly. When ready to serve, remove from refrigerator and unmold onto a plate.
Frittata
The Italian frittata is not something you make in seconds, like a French omelet, but a substantial combination of ingredients and flavorings bound by eggs and cheese that needs slow top-of-the-stove cooking and a final setting in the oven. It is served cut into wedges and usually hot, although I think it is even more delicious at room temperature, tepid—even cold. I can remember when a cold zucchini and prosciutto frittata was in much demand at Balilla on Bleecker Street, one of the best small Italian restaurants New York City ever had. Practically anything goes into a frittata. It’s a chance to improvise with whatever is in the refrigerator. If you are having guests, you can make two or three different frittatas and let them sample each one. All you need add to complete the meal is a salad, good bread, and seasonal fruit.
You’ll find variations on the frittata in different countries, such as the Spanish flat omelet or tortilla (not to be confused with the Mexican tortilla), the Omelette Savoyarde (see page 256), and some of the Middle Eastern egg dishes, such as Minina (see page 261).
Onion and Zucchini Frittata
Makes 6 servings
1 cup thinly sliced onion
⅓ cup olive oil
3 tiny zucchini, sliced paper thin
6 extra-large eggs
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
5 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 or 2 basil leaves, cut into thin strips
Cook the onion in olive oil until transparent. Add the zucchini and brown lightly. Reduce heat and let onion and zucchini cook down for 4 to 5 minutes, then season with salt and pepper, drain off oil and excess liquid, and cool slightly.
Beat the eggs in a bowl with salt and pepper. Add the zucchini and onion mixture and 4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Heat the butter over medium-low heat in a heavy 10-inch skillet, preferably black iron, until it foams and begins to bubble. Pour the mixture into the pan, add the finely chopped parsley and basil leaves. Keeping the heat very low, cook only until the eggs have set, about 20 minutes. The top should still be a little runny. Sprinkle with the remaining tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese, and put under a hot broiler for not less than 30 seconds nor more than a minute, until barely set on top, but not brown. Run a sharp knife or thin spatula around the edges of the frittata to loosen it from the pan, slide it out onto a plate, and cool to room temperature. Serve cut in wedges with a good salad. This is equally good if it is chilled.
Artichoke Frittata. Thinly slice 3 large cooked artichoke bottoms or 12 canned or thawed frozen artichoke hearts. Sauté 3 finely chopped garlic cloves in 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil until soft, add the artichokes, and sauté 4 minutes. Season lightly with salt. Drain off oil and slightly cool the artichokes. Add the artichokes and Parmesan cheese in place of the zucchini to the egg mixture and cook as before.
Prosciutto Frittata. Add shredded prosciutto to the onion and zucchini frittata.
Ham and Potato Frittata. Use cubed cooked ham and potato instead of the zucchini.
Frankfurter Frittata. Instead of zucchini, cook ½ roasted green pepper, chopped fine, with the onion. Add 4 to 5 frankfurters, cut in shreds, and cook about 5 minutes, until heated through and delicately brown. Combine with the egg mixture and cook as before. Use 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley and omit the basil. You may use salami or knockwurst instead of frankfurters, if you wish.
Tomato and Onion Frittata. Cook the onion and 1 cup peeled, seeded, and finely chopped tomato (instead of zucchini) in the oil for 10 minutes. Drain off the oil and excess liquid, add to the egg mixture, and cook as before.
Spinach Frittata. Instead of zucchini, use 2 cups chopped raw spinach combined with 2 finely chopped garlic cloves sautéed with the onion.
Spinach and Bacon Frittata. Add crisply cooked pieces of bacon to the spinach and egg mixture.
Bean Sprout and Pork Frittata. To the egg mixture add 1½ cups bean sprouts and 1 cup shredded roast pork. Just before putting the frittata under the broiler, top with Chinese noodles, fried until crisp.
Vanessi Special
One of the old Italian restaurants in San Francisco is noted for this hearty dish, yet another frittata variation. I have often sat at the counter and watched it being prepared.
Makes 6 servings
1 pound fresh spinach, or 10-ounce package frozen spinach
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
⅓ cup olive oil
1 pound ground beef, preferably chuck
6 extra-large eggs
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Wilt the fresh spinach, with just the water clinging to the leaves after washing, in a heavy saucepan over low heat, covered, until limp. Remove from the heat, squeeze all the moisture out of the spinach, and finely chop it. If using frozen spinach, do not wilt; simply thaw it and proceed as above.
In a 10-inch skillet (preferably cast iron), cook the onion and garlic in olive oil until transparent. Add the ground beef and brown lightly. Beat the eggs in a bowl with the salt and pepper. Pour the eggs over the meat and onion mixture, and cook over low heat until they are barely set. Scatter the chopped spinach over the eggs, and place the skillet under the broiler until lightly browned. Run a sharp knife or thin spatula around the edges of the frittata to loosen it from the pan, slide it out onto a plate, and cut into wedges. Or you may serve it from the skillet, cut into wedges.
Ham Frittata. Use ½ pound finely chopped ham in place of the ground beef. Omit the spinach, garlic, and salt, and proceed as above.
Spinach Frittata. Omit the ground beef and use 2 pounds fresh spinach, wilted, or 2 ten-ounce packages frozen spinach, thawed, all moisture squeezed out and finely chopped. Proceed as above.
Frittata with Beans and Rice. Omit the ground beef, substituting 2 cups cooked or canned red kidney beans and 1 cup cooked rice, and proceed as above.
The countries of the Middle East have evolved some delicious ways of combining eggs and other foods. This one is hearty enough for a luncheon main course.
Makes 8 servings
½ pound calves’ brains
Juice of ½ lemon
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
1 pound chicken breast
9 eggs
3 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
⅛ teaspoon nutmeg
4 tablespoons peanut oil
Lemon wedges
Clean the brains according to directions on page 449. Put them into a pan of cold water with the lemon juice and ½ teaspoon salt, slowly bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, no longer, as they will have further cooking. Drain, dry well, and cut into dice.
Put chicken breast in a skillet, add water to cover and ½ teaspoon salt, bring to a boil, skim, reduce heat, and simmer just until firm, about 12 minutes. Drain, saving stock, and when cool enough to handle, remove skin and bones and cut meat into strips 1 inch long and ½ inch wide. Preheat oven to 350°.
Beat uncooked eggs until well mixed. Add brains, chicken, and hard-boiled eggs. Mix gently. Season with nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Heat oil in a deep metal skillet, such as a cast-iron skillet, that can go into the oven. When oil is very hot, add egg mixture and bake for 15 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Loosen around edges with a knife and invert onto a plate. Sprinkle with about 4 tablespoons of the reserved chicken stock and surround with lemon wedges. Serve cut in wedges.
Peruvian Eggs
A most unusual egg dish that makes a nice change from pasta as a first course or a light luncheon. Credit for this goes to a young Peruvian chef, Felipe Rojas-Lombardi, who at one point in his career helped me with my cooking classes.
12 large eggs
4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons crushed soda crackers or English water biscuits
¼ cup milk
½ teaspoon basil
Dash of Tabasco
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Tomato sauce (see page 534) or butter
Grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
Put the eggs into a mixing bowl and whisk lightly. Add the cheese, crackers, milk, basil, Tabasco, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the mixture into a well-heated and buttered omelet pan, 8 to 10 inches in diameter, and spread around the pan to about ⅛-inch thickness. When lightly browned on one side, turn and brown the other. Remove to a plate. Continue with remaining mixture and stack omelets on the plate. Roll each one up and cut as you would noodles. Heat the strips in tomato sauce well seasoned with basil and garlic, or just in butter. In either case, serve with freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese.
Lettuce Timbales
It is rather amusing when you think that timbales, which once graced the tables of house-proud hostesses, are having a great renaissance with followers of nouvelle cuisine. I like to serve vegetable timbales as a light accompaniment to certain roast meats and broiled or poached fish, and others with a sauce as a light luncheon dish.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
1½ pounds (approximately 4 heads) Boston lettuce
1 cup heavy cream
4 eggs
Salt, pepper, nutmeg, to taste
Butter
Pick over and wash the lettuce leaves. Parboil for 3 to 4 minutes after the water returns to a boil, drain, refresh in cold running water, and squeeze the lettuce of excess moisture. Finely chop the lettuce and reserve.
Whisk the cream, eggs, and seasonings together in a bowl and add the finely chopped lettuce. Butter well six 2½-inch custard cups or a large charlotte mold, line the bottoms with parchment cooking paper and butter that also. Pour in mixture. Place the timbales in a large baking pan and pour in just enough water to come halfway up the sides. Place in a 375° oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes for the small timbale molds, or for 45 to 50 minutes for the charlotte mold. Run a knife around the edges, unmold, then lift off and discard the parchment. Serve either plain or with the juices from a roast. As a course apart, you may serve it with a light tomato sauce or with a hollandaise or, if you like, sauce mousseline.
Spinach Timbales. Use 1½ pounds spinach instead of the lettuce.
Watercress Timbales. Use 1½ pounds watercress instead of lettuce.
Broccoli Timbales. Use 1 pound broccoli flowerets, fresh or frozen, blanched in boiling water for 1 minute, squeezed dry of all moisture, and finely chopped.
Ham Timbales. Use ¼ pound cooked ham, finely chopped, and proceed as above, omitting the salt.
Shrimp Timbales. Use ¼ pound cooked shrimp, finely chopped, and proceed as above.
Chicken Timbales. Use ¼ pound cooked chicken, finely chopped, and proceed as above.
Lobster Timbales. Use ¼ pound fresh, frozen, or canned lobster meat, finely chopped, and proceed as above.
Crabmeat Timbales. Use ¼ pound fresh, frozen, or canned crabmeat, finely chopped, and proceed as above.
Basil Timbales. Use ¼ cup finely chopped fresh basil, and proceed as above.
Salmon and Sour Cream Roll
A different way of baking and serving a soufflé, which we described in Theory & Practice (page 250). A rolled soufflé makes a great light luncheon dish, and the fillings are limited only by your imagination.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
4 tablespoons butter
8 tablespoons flour
2 cups hot milk
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper or Tabasco
1 tablespoon cognac
½ pint sour cream
3 eggs, separated
4 to 6 finely chopped green onions
½ pound smoked salmon, cut in slivers
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan, blend in the flour, and cook until golden. Gradually stir in the hot milk, stirring constantly to prevent the sauce from lumping. Return to the heat and cook, stirring, until thick. Mix in the salt, pepper, cognac, and 2 tablespoons sour cream. Lightly beat the egg yolks and mix in, off the heat. Preheat the oven to 325°. Butter a 10-by-15-by-1-inch jelly-roll pan, line with wax paper, and butter the paper well.
Beat the egg whites until they stand in soft peaks, as for a soufflé. Fold about one-third of the whites into the sauce, incorporating them completely; pour sauce mixture onto whites in the bowl, then lightly fold in the whites. Spread in the prepared pan, evening the top with a rubber spatula. Bake for 40 minutes, or until golden and firm to the touch.
Remove the pan from the oven and invert onto large sheets of wax paper. Loosen the paper from the roll, and carefully peel it off. Trim the edges of the roll with a large sharp knife. Spread the roll with the remaining sour cream and sprinkle with the green onions and smoked salmon. Use the long side of the wax paper to roll it up like a jelly roll and slide it onto a board or heated platter.
Minced Clam and Sour Cream Roll. Spread the roll with sour cream or yogurt, and top with about 2 cups minced clams, barely heated through in their own juice and drained. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Mushroom and Sour Cream Roll. Spread the roll with sour cream or yogurt. Add a purée of mushrooms that have been sautéed in butter with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Corn and Sour Cream Roll. Spread the roll with sour cream or yogurt. Top with 2½ to 3 cups corn kernels, freshly cut from the cob, that have been heated in butter and seasoned with finely chopped green peppercorns.
Marrow Soufflé in Pastry
Another good variation on the theme of the soufflé, which we covered in Theory & Practice (pages 245–256), is to bake it in a pastry shell.
Makes 6 servings
RICH TART PASTRY
2 cups unsifted flour
¾ cup (6 ounces) butter
3 hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed
2 raw egg yolks
½ teaspoon salt
Put the flour on a board or in a bowl and make a well in the center. Put all the other ingredients in the well and work to a paste with the fingertips, gradually incorporating the flour to make a firm, smooth ball of dough. Work quickly to prevent the butter from becoming greasy. When the dough leaves the board or the sides of the bowl, wrap in wax paper, and chill until firm. Roll out and use to line a 9-inch pie pan. Prick the crust well with a fork. Bake in a 425° oven for 12 minutes.
SOUFFLÉ MIXTURE
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup scalded milk
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh fines herbes
4 egg yolks
Poached or baked marrow from 6 bones
5 egg whites
Melt the butter and blend in the flour. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually stir in the milk, blending until smooth. Return to the heat and cook, stirring, until thick and smooth. Cool slightly and season with salt. Mix in the chopped herbs and egg yolks. Remove the marrow from the bones, cut it into small pieces, and add. Beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Fold half the egg whites into the sauce mixture fairly well, then lightly fold in the remainder. Pour the soufflé mixture into prebaked pastry shell and put in a 400° oven until just puffed and brown, about 20 to 25 minutes. Serve at once.
Cheese Soufflé in Pastry. Fill shell with cheese soufflé mixture (see Theory & Practice, page 247) instead of the marrow soufflé.
Spinach Soufflé in Pastry. Fill shell with spinach soufflé.
Ham Soufflé in Pastry. Fill shell with ham soufflé.
Crabmeat Soufflé in Pastry. Put a layer of crabmeat in the pastry shell, then add the basic soufflé mixture, omitting marrow. Use finely chopped dill instead of the fines herbes.
Cheese Soufflé with Whole Eggs in Pastry. Half fill shell with cheese soufflé mixture, then space 6 eggs around the edge. Cover with remaining mixture and bake.
Savory Crêpes
Makes about 16 six-inch crêpes
3 eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 to 1¼ cups milk or beer
⅞ cup (1 cup less 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour
4 to 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Beat the eggs in a bowl with a wire whisk until smooth. Mix in the salt and 1 cup of the milk or beer (beer makes the crêpes lighter). Blend well, then stir in the flour with the whisk and add 2 tablespoons of the melted butter. Beat until batter is smooth, free of lumps, and the consistency of heavy cream. You may need to add more liquid, but do not add until the flour has been mixed in. If you have a blender or food processor, the ingredients may be added all at one time and blended or processed until smooth.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours (or up to 12 hours in the refrigerator). When ready to make the crêpes, check the consistency of the batter and beat it with the whisk as the flour will have settled. If the batter is thicker than heavy cream, add a little extra liquid.
Heat an iron crêpe pan or Teflon-lined pan with a 6-inch bottom diameter over medium heat until good and hot. Brush with a light film of melted butter, then scoop up about 3 tablespoons of the batter with a ladle or ¼ cup dry measure and pour into the pan. Raise pan from heat and tilt so the batter runs over the bottom of the pan, covering it with a thin layer. Replace pan on heat and cook just until surface is set. Run a spatula around the edges of the crêpe to loosen it and then flip it over. Bake the second side and then turn the crêpe out onto a plate by inverting the pan. Continue to make crêpes until batter is used, brushing pan with more melted butter as needed.
If you are using the crêpes right away, simply stack them on a plate. If you wish to keep them for later use, put wax paper between the crêpes as you stack them, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. If you wish to freeze them, remove from the plate when cool, wrap tightly in aluminum foil, label, and freeze.
Manka’s Babies
Many years ago I encountered this lovely batter pudding, which is kin to a German pancake or an English Yorkshire pudding, at an old-style Czech restaurant in Seattle called Manka, hence the name. Recently I tried out one of the puddings one day for lunch and have been eating them, with savory or sweet fillings, ever since, and using them in demonstrations. They are fun, easy, inexpensive, and lend themselves to infinite flavor variations. I often serve fruit on them and flambé them. You can also make individual versions in small metal skillets that can be put in the oven.
⅓ cup unsalted butter
4 eggs
1 cup milk
1 cup all-purpose flour
Preheat oven to 425°. Melt the butter in a 9- to 10-inch skillet in the oven. Put the eggs, milk, and flour in the beaker of a food processor and blend until smooth. Remove the gratin pan from the oven and pour in the batter. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until puffed and nicely browned. Serve rolled and sliced, or cut in wedges, with syrup, fresh fruit, or hot fruit.
Manka’s Babies with Ham. Serve with broiled or sautéed ham slices.
Manka’s Babies with Roast Beef. Use beef drippings in place of butter. Serve with roast beef.
Manka’s Babies with Spinach and Cheese. Top baked pudding with finely chopped cooked spinach, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, roll, and serve.
Manka’s Babies with Broccoli Rabe and Cheese. Top with a purée of broccoli rabe (see page 130), sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, and roll.
Manka’s Babies with Strawberries and Yogurt. Serve with sugared strawberries and plain yogurt.
Flemish Leek Pie
Makes 1 nine-inch pie
2 pounds leeks
4 to 5 tablespoons butter
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Chilled unbaked shell for a 2-crust 9-inch pie
Few pieces of finely cut ham (optional)
3 egg yolks plus 1 whole egg
½ to ⅔ cup heavy cream
Grating of nutmeg
Clean and finely slice the leeks (be sure to wash them well, as leeks always have sand and dirt between the leaves) and sauté in butter over medium-low heat—they should just melt down, not brown. When soft and limp, salt and pepper them to taste and spread them in the chilled pastry shell. (While not traditional, I find that a few pieces of finely cut ham are a very good addition.) Beat the egg yolks and whole egg with heavy cream and pour over the leeks and ham. Give it a grating of nutmeg, roll out the remaining pastry, fit it over the filling as a top crust, and cut a ½-inch hole in the center. Bake at 450° for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°, and continue cooking until the custard is set and the pastry nicely browned, about 30 minutes. Serve warm or cooled.
Gougères
These wonderfully cheesy little puffs of pâté à choux—cream puff pastry—are easy to make and terribly popular at a party—so make lots!
Makes 26 to 30 puffs
1 cup water
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground pepper
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 medium-size eggs
¾ to 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese
1 teaspoon dry mustard
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Grated Parmesan or Gruyère cheese or small cubes of Gruyère for garnish
Combine water, butter, salt, and pepper in a medium-size saucepan and cook over medium heat until the butter melts. Add the flour all at once and stir the mixture vigorously and constantly, still over medium heat, with a wooden spoon or spatula until it is very firm and pulls away from the sides of the pan. Off the heat, add the eggs, one at a time, beating vigorously after each addition until completely incorporated. The dough should be smooth and glossy. Add the ¾ to 1 cup grated cheese, mustard, and cayenne, and blend thoroughly. Drop the mixture by small spoonfuls onto a lightly buttered baking sheet, or if you want to be a little fancier, pipe small puffs of the mixture through a plain-tipped pastry bag. Sprinkle the tops with additional grated Gruyère or Parmesan cheese or place 2 or 3 small pieces of Gruyère on top of each puff. Bake the gougères in a preheated 375° oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown. Remove from the oven and make a crosswise slash in the bottom of each to allow excess steam to escape. Return the gougères to the warm oven for a few minutes to dry them. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Malakoff
I first had these glorious, puffy cheese concoctions at a small Swiss country restaurant on the shores of Lake Geneva, where they are the house specialty. With cornichons, pickled onions, a green salad, and a light young white wine they make a whole meal—so addictive you can’t stop eating them. Or serve as a first course or cocktail food. The un-Swiss name, incidentally, honors a famous Russian general, like the dessert charlotte Malakoff.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
½ pound Gruyère cheese, grated
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
3 eggs, separated
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of nutmeg, or more, to taste
¼ cup milk
1 tablespoon flour
⅓ cup kirsch
Oil for frying
Mix the cheese, garlic, egg yolks, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir in the milk, flour, and kirsch, and mix well. Beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry, and fold them gently into the cheese mixture. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Cut French bread or other white bread into thick rounds or rectangles, and spread the cheese mixture on one side of the bread twice, rounding over the second layer. Set aside for 1 hour to mellow.
Heat oil to 365°. Place a few cheese rounds at a time in the oil, cheese side down, and fry until golden brown. Turn and fry the second side. Drain on paper towels and serve with above suggestions.
Welsh Rarebit
Makes 4 servings
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 egg yolks
⅔ cup dark beer
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
¼ to ½ teaspoon Tabasco
8 ounces aged Cheddar cheese, shredded
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan or in the top of a double boiler. Beat together the egg yolks, beer, and seasonings. Add to the pan and cook until quite hot but not boiling. Gradually add handfuls of shredded cheese, stirring with a wooden spoon—always in the same direction—until the cheese is entirely melted and the resulting rarebit is smooth and velvety. Serve on buttered toast.
Welsh Rarebit with Poached Egg or Hamburger. Serve the Welsh Rarebit spooned over a poached egg on toast or a freshly cooked hamburger on a bun.
Welsh Rarebit with Tomato Juice. Use tomato juice instead of beer and the rarebit becomes a Blushing Bunny.
An unusual and satisfying main-course salad from a country that produces superb cheeses and uses them in every way imaginable. I like the spicy contrast of the mustard and horseradish with the nutty flavor of the cheese.
Makes 6 servings
½ pound Swiss Emmenthaler cheese, cut in 1-inch cubes
6 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons dry mustard
1 teaspoon grated horseradish or drained bottled horseradish
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon cumin seed
½ cup sour cream or yogurt
Salad greens
Combine the cheese and chopped eggs and season with the mustard, horseradish, salt, pepper, and cumin seed. Toss lightly with the sour cream or yogurt and serve on a bed of greens.
Deep-Dish Pizza
Makes 6 servings
PIZZA DOUGH
1 package active dry yeast
Pinch of sugar
1¼ cups warm water (100° to 115°, approximately)
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 cups flour, preferably hard-wheat
FILLING
1 cup reduced basic tomato sauce (see page 534)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
¾ pound mozzarella cheese, cut into julienne strips
½ pound fontina, cut into julienne strips
2 cups sliced pepperoni, kielbasa, salami, or sweet Italian sausages previously poached
½ cup pitted black Italian olives, halved
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese
In a mixing bowl combine the yeast, sugar, and ½ cup of the water, and allow the yeast to dissolve. Add the rest of the warm water to the yeast mixture along with the salt and the olive oil. Stir in the flour and beat with a wooden spoon or with your hands to make a stiff, sticky dough. Turn the dough out on a well-floured board and knead until velvety smooth and elastic but firm, about 10 minutes. Oil a large bowl, add the dough, and turn to coat thoroughly with the oil. Place in a warm, draft-free spot to rise until about doubled in bulk, 1 to 1½ hours.
While the dough is rising, make the tomato sauce. Purée the sauce in a food processor or blender, add the tomato paste and reduce to 1 cup very thick sauce.
Punch the dough down, turn out on a lightly floured board, and roll out dough ⅛ inch thick. Fit it into a 10-inch iron skillet, patting it over the bottom and sides. Cover with half the sliced cheese, then half the tomato sauce and sausage. Cover with the remaining cheese, tomato sauce, sausage, and black olives. Sprinkle with Parmesan and bake in a 450° oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400° and bake the pizza for an additional 5 to 7 minutes.