Index

acorn squash, 177, 593

baked, 180, 593; bacon and garlic, 180; maple sugar and bacon, 180

cream soup, 57

stuffed, 593

see also squash, winter

aïoli, 203

allspice, 592

almonds, 575; to blanch, 575; to toast, 575

barley and mushroom casserole, 296

beef and pork chili, 381

cookies, 485; soft, 484–5

orange cake, 520–1

praline powder, 518

with rice, 289; pilaf and raisins, 291

in salad, 79

tuiles, 484

anchovies, 5

butter, 15

hollandaise, 532

leg of lamb, weeping, 389

mayonnaise, 77

and olive stuffing for veal birds, 409

with peppers, 5; eggs and tomatoes, 6; raisins, 36; shallots and parsley, 6; tuna, 6; vinaigrette with mozzarella and tomatoes, 167

pot roast, 377

rabbit provençal, 356–357

in salad, 79; crab, with cucumber and onion, 111

sauce, 391; raisin and pine nut, 281

tapenade, 35–6

with tomatoes, 6

with tuna and artichoke hearts, 10

with tuna and hardboiled egg, 10

anglaise, sauce, 504

anise seed, 592

anticuchos, 31

with chicken hearts, 31

apples, 539; kinds, 539

cake, Don Farmer’s fresh, 521–2

horseradish applesauce, 422

pancakes, 494

pie, 509

poached, 506

raw, as dessert, 506

in salad: grapefruit, 98; tuna, 113

sautéed slices, for pork crown roast stuffing, 420

sharlotka, 525–6

sherbet, 501

tapioca, 527; and pear, 527; and quince, 527

tarte Tatin, 513

vichyssoise, 55

apricots, 539

canned, as dessert, 507

dried, compote, 514

jam or preserves, glaze, 510, 511, 520

and pineapple tart, 510–511

poached, 506

sherbet, 499–500

artichokes (globe artichokes), 119, 120

boiled, 119

bottoms, 120; Frenchfried, 187; mixed vegetable sauté, 189–190

cold, 120; stuffed with seafood, 121

frittata, 259

hearts: French-fried, 187; in salad, 78; with tuna, 10

microwave-cooked, 120

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

serving suggestions, 120

soup, 53

steamed, 120

stuffed, 121; ham or prosciutto, 121; shrimp, 121

artichokes, Jerusalem, see Jerusalem artichokes

arugula (rugula; rocket), 557

asiago, 545

asparagus, 123, 540; doneness, testing for, 39, 123

in ambush, 40

Belgian, 40

boiled, 123

canned, 540

Dutch, 40

French-fried, 187

Italian-style, 39

microwave-cooked, 123

minute, 124–5

with prosciutto, 32

purée, with poached eggs, 252

raw, 124

sauces and dressings, 124

steamed, 123

tips: mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90; omelet, 256; with risotto, 293

turkey divan, 332

Austrian chocolate cake, 518–19

avocados, 540; to prevent discoloring, 540

crab salad, with onion, 111; and radish, 112

and liver, sautéed, 451

lobster salad, with onion, 110

scallop salad with chili, 109; and sauce Gribiche, 109

shrimp salad, 112; and papaya, 98

stuffed: chicken, ham, and cheese, 37; chili, hot, 37; crabmeat, 37; diced avocado and Russian dressing, 37; seviche, 37; shrimp, 37; tapenade, 36

-yogurt sauce or dressing, 75

bacon, 570

onion and spinach frittata, 259

in salad, 79

bagels, egg, 472–3

with onions, 473

with poppy seeds, 473

with sesame seeds, 473

baking powder, 540

homemade, 540

baking soda, 540

Balilla (N.Y.C.), 258

bananas, 540–1

raw, as dessert, 506

banana squash, see squash, winter

baps, breakfast, 476

barding, 569

barley, 274, 541

and mushroom casserole, 295–6; almonds, 296; celery and water chestnuts, 296; chicken gizzards, 296

basil, 559; to keep, 282

pesto, 281–2; with walnuts, 282

in salad, 78

timbales, 263

bass, see sea bass; striped bass

bay leaf, 559

beans, 274, 541

black, 274; soup, 61–2; with sour cream, 307–308; sour cream, cheese, and bacon, 308

cannellini, puréed, with Madeira, 304

dried, 274, 541; to cook, 541

and lamb shanks, 399–400

pasta with beans, 286–7

pinto: cowpuncher beans, 308; Nevada chili beans, 308

succotash, 541

see also chickpeas; lentils

beans, cranberry (shell beans), 127

with bacon, 127

boiled, 127

cold, with vinaigrette, and onion, 127

beans, fava (broad beans), 541

beans, green, 125, 541

and almonds, toasted, 126

chicken and crabmeat salad, 106–7

chicken and potato salad, 103

cold: dilled vinaigrette, 126; mustard-flavored mayonnaise, 126; shallots and green olives, 126; walnut oil, 126

duck and foie gras salad, 106

French-fried, 187

with garlic and pine nuts, 126

with herbs, fresh, 126

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

with onion rings, 126

quick-boiled, 125–6

with risotto, 293

tomatoes stuffed with, 89

beans, kidney, 308

and sauerkraut salad, 93

with sausages, 307

Vanessi special, with rice, 260

beans, lima, 541

cassoulet, 305–6; with codfish, 306–7; duck legs, roasted, 306; lamb, cooked, 306; lamb and pork, cooked, 306

succotash, 541

beans, wax (yellow), 127, 187, 541

beans, white, 274, 308

cassoulet, 304–5

with cognac, 303; ham and sausage, 303

lamb shanks, 399–400

purée, 303–4

bean sprouts, see sprouts

Béarnaise sauce, 532

Beaucaire, salade, 88

béchamel sauce, 531

as thickener, 54

variations, 202, 531, 532

beef, 363–4, 565–7; boneless, serving portion, 564; grades, 565

birds, 373–4; ham and onion stuffing, 374; stuffings, 409–10

bollito misto, 372–3

bourguignon (in red Burgundy), 368–9; instant, 370–1

in brain sauce, 285

braised, with sautéed peppers, 165

brioche bohémienne, 26–27

chili, with pork, 381; beer, 381;, nuts, 381; olives, 381

chili con carne, 380

corned beef, 567

curried, and tomato sauce, 279

daube, 377–8; aixoise, 378; niçoise, 379; provençale, 378; provençale, with tripe, 378

fillet, Elizabeth David’s stuffed, 367

frankfurters, see frankfurters

hamburger, basic sautéed, 382; au poivre, 382; cheese, 382; chili, 383; eggplant, 383; flambé, 383; garlic and pine nuts, 382–3; herbs, 383; onions, broiled, 159; onions, steamed, 382; onions and cream, 383; red wine, 383; serving suggestions, 383; Welsh rarebit, 269

heart, 449, 566; anticuchos, 31

herring salad, 7

kadjemoula, 397–8

kidneys, 567

liver, 448, 567; meat loaf, 384; sautéed, 451–2

marrow, poached, in Bordelaise sauce, 533

meat loaf, old-fashioned, 364, 383–4; beef liver, 384; chilied, 385; clams, minced, 384; eggs, hard-boiled, 384; ham, 384; olives, 384

on a string (à la ficelle), 369–70

oxtail, 567; consomme, 43, 48–9, 567; gratin, 49; and vegetable soup, 49–50

peppers stuffed with, 167

pot roast, 375–6; anchovied, 377; Flemish, 377; leftover, with ratatouille, 377; Madeira and turnips, 376; marinated, 376; Mexican, 377; tomatoes, 376

roast, 364–6; escabeche, 16; and Manka’s babies, 267

roast fillet, 364; flambé, 365; flambé, with truffle and chicken liver stuffing, 365–6; glazed, 366; marinated, 366; slices with poached eggs, 252; spiced, 365

salad: hearty, 105; hearty, with tarragon vinaigrette, 105; hussar, 105–6

sausages, see sausages, meat

scallops bluegrass, 371

short ribs, braised, 379–380; chili, 380; onions, 380; tomatoes, 380

steak, broiled: cuts, 364; formula for cooking time, 364

stew with sautéed peppers, 165

stock, 530

Stroganoff, 372

suet, 594–5

testicles, 567

and tomato sauce, 284

tongue, see tongue

tournedos: Argentina, 368; Béarnaise, 368; Bordelaise, 367–8; marinated, 368; onions, 368; sherry, 368

tripe, see tripe

Vanessi special, 260

beer batter, 187, 188

beets, 541–2

baked, 129

boiled, 542

borsch, 50

cold, vinaigrette, 128

dill, 128

greens, 128, 150, 558; in salad, 558; wilted, 150, 558

old-fashioned pickled eggs, 250–1

with onion and chopped tarragon, 128

with onion and orange, 128

purée: with carrots, 137; with poached eggs, 252

salad: with greens, 78, 544, 559, 560; marinated mushrooms, 86

soup, cold, 56

with yogurt, 128

Belgian asparagus, 40

bell peppers, see peppers, sweet or bell

beurre blanc, 201

beurre manié, 536

Bibb lettuce, 556

mushroom salad, 82; with crab, 82

vintner’s salad, 81

billi bi, 66

Billy’s coleslaw, 90–1

with seafood, 90–1

Le Bistrôt (Mougins, France), 19

black beans, see beans, black

blackberries, 542

poached, 505

raw, as dessert, 506

blini:

buckwheat, 40–1

carrot, 41

blood sausages, 570, 587

biowfish (puffer; globefish), 551

blueberries, 542

poached, 505

raw, as dessert, 506

bluefish, 551

broiled fillets, 196–7; variations, 197–8

broiled steaks, 206

sautéed fillets, 199

boar, mock, 422

bockwurst, 587–8

boiled dressing, 94

bollito misto, 372–3

bologna, 588

Bordelaise sauce, 533

with poached beef marrow, 533

borsch, 50

bouillabaisse, 220–1

boula-boula, 47

bouquet garni, 560

brains, 448

au beurre noir, 450

broiled, 450

calves’, 450, 571; Gribeche, 15; minina, 261

escabeche, 16

fried, 451

lambs’, 450, 568

parboiled or poached, 449

pork, 569

sauce, 284; and lasagne, 285; with meat, 285;

and tomato, 284

sautéed, 450 marinated, 450

with scrambled eggs, 254

brambles, 494

brandade (of cold), 244–5

eggs Benedictine, 252

fritters, 245

and mashed potatoes, 245

portugaise, 245

tart, 245

bran muffins, whole-wheat, 482

bratwurst, 572, 588

Brazil nuts, 575

bread, 466–7

bagels, egg, 472–3; with onions, 473; poppy seeds, 473; sesame seeds, 473

baps, breakfast, 476

buns, Lenten, 479–80

carrot, 474

cottage cheese, 481

croutons, 78

crumpets, 480

Gruyère garlic, 473–4

knusper brote, 483

mealy, 482

muffins, whole-wheat bran, 482

nut rum, 481

polygrained, 472; cornmeal; 472; garlic and dill, 472; walnuts, 472

pullman loaf (pain de mie), 469–70

pumpernickel, 471

raisin, 474–5

rolls: hard, 475–6; Mrs. Maynard’s cinnnamon, 478–9

rye, dark, 470–1

sharlotka, 525–6

white, basic, 468–9

see also brioche

bread-and-butter pudding, 526

French, 527

with raisins, 527

with rum, 527

breading, cornmeal, 547

brioche, 477

à tête, 478

bohémienne, 26–7

bread, 477–8

coulibiac in, 214–15; with rice, 215

with ham, 27–8

pork liver pâté in, 23–4

sausage en, 28–9

broccoli, 128–9, 542; to buy, 128, 542

with black butter, 129

boiled, 129

crumbed, 130

flowerets, 189–90; French-fried, 187; steamed, 129

frozen, 542

with garlic and parsley, 129

julienne, sautéed with cucumbers, 146

with maltaise sauce, 129

purée, 129; with poached egg, 252

timbales, 263

turkey divan, 332

broccoli rabe, 130

cold, vinaigrette, 130

purée, 130; with cheese and Manka’s babies, 267; with poached egg, 252

steamed, 130

broth, see stock and broth

Brown, Philip:

duck kebabs, 340

romaine soufflé, 150–1

tongue with chicken liver sauce, 457

brown bread ice cream, 504

brownies, blond, 493

brown sauce, quick, 533

variations, 533

brown sugar rum sauce, 508

Brussels sprouts, 131, 542; to buy, 131

braised, with chestnuts, for pork crown roast stuffing, 420

with chestnuts, 131

cold, with mustard mayonnaise, 132

crisp-cooked, 131

French-fried, 187

frozen, 542

microwave-cooked, 132

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

with mushroom caps, sautéed, 131

with Parmesan cheese, 131

with shallots, 131

buckwheat, 274, 542–3

blini, 40–1

groats (kasha), 296, 542–3; giblets, sautéed, 296; mushrooms, 296

bulghur, see cracked wheat

Burgundian mustard, 421

butter, 543

anchovy, 15

beurre: blanc, 201; manié, 536

caraway, 537

chili, 537

clarified, 543

cream frosting, 518

curry, 233, 234

dill, 537

garlic, 20, 537; parsley, 336

herbed, 198

lemon, 197; parsley, 231

orange, 537

pepper, green, 142

peppercorn, green, 318

roquefort stuffing, 402

rosemary, 537

salt, 543

tarragon, 536–7

unsalted (sweet), 543

white butter sauce, 201

buttercup squash, see turban squash

butternut squash, 177, 179, 593–4

baked, 179, 593

cream soup, 57

spiced, 177

see also squash, winter

butterscotch sauce, 508

cabbage, 132, 543; to buy, 543

braised, 133; with heavy cream, 134; with vinegar and dill, 133

French-fried strips, 187

goloubtzys (choux farcis), 136

and ham, boiled, 439

lemon, 134

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

with partridge, braised, and sausage, 348–9

red, 132, 543; braised, with apples and wine, 135; braised, with apples and raisins, 135

salad, 543; spicy Szechuan, 84

savoy, 132, 543; whole stuffed, 134–5; whole stuffed, in chicken broth, 136; whole stuffed, with tomato sauce, 135

steamed, 133; vinaigrette, 133

stuffed, 132

see also coleslaw; sauerkraut

Caesar salad, 85–6

cakes:

apple, Don Farmer’s fresh, 521–2

buttered-cake pudding, 527

cheesecake: chocolate, 522–3; hazlenut, 523–524; sour cream, 524

chocolate: Austrian, 518–519; French, 517–18; tweed, 519

flour, 555

orange and almond, 520–1

pear, fresh, 522

pound, 525; with citron, 525; with spices, 525

sponge, with apricot glaze, 520

calves’ brains, 450, 571

Gribiche, 15

minina, 261

calves’ feet, 572

calves’ liver, 448, 572

julienne, 452

roast whole, 452–3

sautéed, 451–2

Venetian style, 452

calves’ sweetbreads, see sweetbreads

cantaloupes, 573

with prosciutto, 32

capers:

in salad, 79

sauce, 531

caponata, 34

with tuna, 35

caramel ice cream, 504

caraway seed, 592

butter, 537

carrots, 136, 543

blini, 41

boiled, 137

bollito misto, 372–3

bread, 474

with cognac, 137

coleslaw: with peppers, 90; radishes, 90

glazed, 137

with herbs, fresh, 137

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

oatmeal carrot cookies, 487–8

purée: with beets, 137; parsley, 137; parsnips, 137; potatoes, 137

with rum, 137

vichyssoise, 55

casabas, 573

cassis ice cream, 504–5

cassoulet, 304–5

with codfish, 306–7

with limas, 305–6; duck legs, roasted, 306; lamb, cooked, 306; lamb and pork, cooked, 306

Castilian mussel soup, 65

cauliflower, 137–8, 544; to buy, 137–8

with Béarnaise sauce, 138

with black butter and capers, 138

boiled, 138

with cheese sauce, 138

cold, sauces and dressings, 139

with curry sauce, 139

flowerets, 546; Frenchfried, 187; mixed vegetable sauté, 189–190

with Gruyère cheese, 138

on ham, with cheese sauce, 139

microwave-cooked, 139

with mornay sauce, 138

with olive oil and garlic, 138

with Parmesan cheese, 138

purée, 139; with cheese sauce, 139; olive oil and garlic, 139; parsley, 139

caviar:

with potatoes, 38

and sour cream omelet, 256

vichyssoise, 55

cayenne pepper, 581

celeriac, see celery root

celery, 140, 544

sauté, 140

wilted salad, 82

celery root (celeriac), 140, 544; to prevent discoloring, 544

baked stuffed, 141–2

boiled, 141

with cheese, 141

with maltaise sauce, 141

and potatoes, baked, 141

cèpes à la Bordelaise, 155–156

champagne sherbet, 500

chard, 150, 558

lentil soup, with lemon, 59

tian, 191; with noodles, 191; with rice, 191

chav, see sorrel

Cheddar cheese, 544

soup, 69; with olives, 69

Welsh rarebit, 269; variations, 269

cheese, 246–7, 544–5; to keep, 544

creamy sauce, 531

with hamburgers, 382

omelet, 256

with rice, 289

in salad, 79

soufflé in pastry, 265; with whole eggs, 265

soufflé with zucchini blossoms, 177

and vegetables, 116

cheesecake:

chocolate, 522–3

hazlenut, 523–4

sour cream, 524

cherries, 545

canned, as dessert, 507

poached, 505

sauce, for roast duck, 338–9

chestnuts:

and Brussels sprouts, 131; braised, for pork crown roast stuffing, 420

purée: and braised chestnuts, for lamb crown roast stuffing, 388; for pork crown roast stuffing, 420

and raisin ice cream, 503

Chiang, Cecilia:

red-cooked pork shoulder, 432

tripe with gizzards, 461–462

chicken, 312–13, 545–6

avocado with ham and cheese, 37

bollito misto, 372–3

boned breasts poached in tomato sauce, 328; with basil and hot peppers, 328

in brain sauce, 285

braised, with ham stuffing, 318; mustard and cream sauce, 318–319

broiling chickens, 545–6

coq au vin, quick, 325

and curry omelet, 257

escabeche, 16

with forty cloves of garlic, 323–4

frying chickens, 546

gizzards: barley and mushroom casserole, 296; with tripe, Cecilia Chiang’s, 461–462

gizzards and hearts, sautéed, 326–7; with Madeira, 327; mushrooms and sour cream, 327

gizzards, hearts, and livers, sautéed, 327; with kasha, 296

hearts: anticuchos, 31; en brochette, 31

hearts and livers en brochette, 30–1; Béarnaise sauce, 31; scrambled eggs, 31

legs, sautéed: paprika, sour cream, and lemon rind, 326; walnuts, 326; yogurt and red peppers, 326

in lettuce leaves, 29–30

livers: and ham, pâté, 22; sauce, for tongue, 457; and truffle stuffing, for beef fillet, 365–6; see also gizzards; hearts above

minina, 261

in Moroccan style, with pickled lemons and olives, 322–3

mustard, 327–8

paella, 293–4

pan-fried, 322; with cream, 322

parts, 320

pâté, rolled, 21–2

peppers stuffed with, 167

piquant broiled halves, 327

poached, 319; with garlic, 319; hollandaise, 320; onion-rice sauce, 320; vegetables, 319

poaching chickens, 546

with risotto, 292

roast: flamed with Armagnac, 316; flamed with Calvados, 316–7; flamed with cognac, 315–17; flamed with whisky, 317; green peppercorn butter, 318; Picasso, 317; sarthoise, 317; sautéed peppers, 165

roasting chickens, 546

salad: bean and crabmeat, 106–7; bean and potato, 103; coriander, fresh, 100–101; lobster and celery, 110; olive sauce, 101–102; and rice, 102; and seafood, 102

salad, basic, 99–100; with celery, 100; with celery, tomatoes stuffed with, 89; celery and grapes, 100; with macadamia nuts, 100; with macadamia nuts, tomatoes stuffed with, 89; with sweetbreads, 100; tomatoes stuffed with, 89

sauté basquaise, 325

sauté with herbs, 324–325; with lemon, 325; onion, garlic, and tomato, 325; onions and chilies, 325; with vinegar, 325

southern-fried, 321–2; with cinnamon or paprika, 322; with rosemary, 322

squab chickens, 337, 546

stock, 529

strips and rice, 328

timbales, 263

and tomato sauce, 284

in yogurt, 328–9

chickpeas (ceci; garbanzos), 274; 546–7

purée, 309, 547; with Madeira, 309

chicory (curly endive), 556

and beet salad, 542

grapefruit and apple salad, 98

wilted, 150

Child, Julia, 125

chili con carne, 380

chili peppers, hot, 165, 582

beef chili, 380; with avocado, 37

beef and pork chili, 381; with beer, 381; with nuts, 381; with olives, 381

butter, 537

chicken breasts poached in tomato sauce, 328

corn-chili soufflé, 302–3

with hamburgers, 383

hominy casserole, 297–8

with huevos rancheros, 253

meat loaf, 385

omelet, 256

with rice pilaf, 291

sauce piquante, 299

with short ribs, braised, 380

turkey chili, 333–4

turkey wings piquant, 335

venison chili, 447–8

Chinese chews, 486

Chinese parsley, see coriander

chives, 560, 576, 578

coleslaw, quick-chopped, 90

green rice, 289

in salad, 78, 578

chocolate, 516, 547; to keep, 547; to melt, 547

blond brownies, 493

cake, Austrian, 518–19; French, 517–18; tweed, 519

cheesecake, 522–3

curls, for garnish, 523

glaze, 517–18

macaroons, 489

and pear tart, 511

pots de crème, 528

ring, 516

sauce, 507

chorizo, 588

paella, 293–4

Chuck’s baked shrimp, 234–5

cider, dry, 211

cider vinegar, 74, 597

cilantro, see coriander

cima di vitello, 572

cinnamon, 592

rolls, Mrs. Maynard’s, 478–9

cioppino, 222

with clams, 222

with mussels, 222

clams, 589; to clean, 589

with anchovy butter, 15

au gratin, 14

bisque, 64

bouillabaisse, 220–1

Casino, 15

cioppino, 222

curried seafood with rice pilaf, 225–6

deviled, 239

hash, 227

Hellenic seafood stew, 219–20

herbed, 15

marinière, 225

minced, and sour cream roll, 264

paella, 293–4

pie, 228–9

provençal, 15

risotto with shellfish, 292

sautéed, 227–8; mustard and Worcestershire sauce, 228; tarragon, 228; white wine, 228

scalloped, 228

soup, 48

steamed, 591

and tomato sauce, 283

cloves, 594

The Coach House Restaurant (N.Y.C.):

black bean soup, 61–2

crabmeat and prosciutto, 33

quince tart, 512

tripe soup, 42, 62–3

cod, 551

baked, niçoise, 208

balls, 244

bouillabaisse, 220–1

broiled fillets, 196–7; variations, 197–8

broiled steaks, 206

cakes, 244; with ginger, 244; with onions, 244

cotriade, 223

curried seafood with rice pilaf, 225–6

escabeche, 16

fillets, 554

salad, 107–8

salt cod, 243, 551; au gratin, 244; béchamel, 244; mornay, 244; poached, 243; with polenta, 301; raïto, 245

sautéed fillets, 199

see also brandade (of cod)

cognac sauce, 507

coleslaw, 89

Billy’s, 90–1; with seafood, 90–1

hot slaw, 91–2; with red slaw, 92; with red slaw and crisp duck skin, 92

pepper slaw, 92

quick chopped, 90; carrots and peppers, 90; carrots and radishes, 90; crabmeat, 90; dilled, 90; green onions or chives, 90; mustard mayonnaise, 90; shrimp, 90; tuna, 90; yogurt mayonnaise, 90

sauerkraut slaw, 93

spicy, 91

collards, 150, 558

tian of mixed greens, 152

cookies, 483

almond, 485; soft, 484–5

blond brownies, 493

butter wafers: cornmeal, 485–6; sesame, 486

Chinese chews, 486

chocolate macaroons, 489

Florentines, 490–1

ginger cakes, 487

Gino’s macaroons, 490

lace, 486–7

lemon meringue bars, 489

Linzer bars, 492

meringue kisses, 491–2

oatmeal carrot, 487–8

outsize, 491

peanut butter, “monster,” 491

sugar, 493

tuiles, 484

Vadis bars, 488–9

coq au vin, quick, 325

coquilles St. Jacques, lo-cal, 241

coriander (Chinese parsley; cilantro), 560

in salad, 78, 100; with chicken, 100–1

corn, 142, 547; to buy, 547

with bacon crumbs and butter, 142

with basil, fresh, 143

with herb mayonnaise, 142

microwave-cooked, 143

with mustard mayonnaise, 142

off the cob, with cream, 143

and okra, 156–7

oysters, 143–4

and peppers, sweet: green pepper butter, 142; and onion, sautéed, 166; stuffed, 167

pudding, 144; with bacon, 144

raw, with cream, 143

with rémoulade sauce, 142

and salad of marinated vegetables and noodles, 87

skillet-boiled, 142

soufflé: with chili, 302–303; with cornmeal, 302

and sour cream roll, 264

and squash soup, 51; puréed, 51

succotash, 541

tomatoes baked and stuffed with, 182–3

cornmeal, 274, 299–300, 547

butter wafers, 485–6

gnocchi, 301

mush, 300

pastry, for tarte Tatin, 513

polygrained bread, 472

soufflé, 302; corn-chili, 302–3; Parmesan cheese, 302; wholekernel corn, 302

as thickening, 547

see also polenta

corn oil, 576

corn salad, see field salad

cotechino, 588

bollito misto, 372–3

cassoulet, 304–5

partridge, braised, with cabbage, 348–9

pheasant, braised, with

sauerkraut, 353–4

sausage en brioche, 436; with mustard, 436

cotriade, 223

cottage cheese, 544

bread, 481

cottonseed oil, 576

coulibiac, 214–15

with rice, 215

court bouillon:

for brains, 450

for fish, white wine, 203

head cheese, 430–1

for pigs’ feet, 429

couscous, 298–9

leftover, serving suggestions, 299

couscousier (and substitute), 298

cowpuncher beans, 308

crabs, 589–90; kinds, 589–90

and avocado, 37

bouillabaisse, 220–1

cioppino, 222

cocotte of seafood Manzanilla, 218–19

coleslaw: Billy’s, 90–1; quick chopped, 90

deviled, 239

jambalaya, 232

Parisienne, 238

and prosciutto, 33

salad: Bibb lettuce, 82; chicken, 102; chicken and bean, 106–7; papaya and shrimp, 99; and rice, tomatoes stuffed with, 89

salad with onion and egg, 111; avocado, 111; cucumber and anchovies, 111; radish, 111

salad with Oriental vegetables, 111–2; avocado, onion, and radish, 112; carrot, onion, and celery, 112; cucumber, anchovies, and onion, 112

seafood sausages, French, 218

soft-shell, 589–90; broiled, 239–40

soufflé, 238; in pastry, 265

in sour cream with mushrooms, 18

with tapenade mayonnaise, 36

timbales, 263

cracked wheat (bulghur), 547

pilaf, 290–1

with pine nuts, for lamb crown roast stuffing, 387

cranberry beans, see beans, cranberry

cranberry sherbet, 502

Cranshaws (Crenshaws), 573

with prosciutto, 32

sherbet, 501–2

crayfish, 590

cream, 548

crème fraîche, 402, 548

and vegetables, 116

see also sour cream

cream cheese, 544

pastry, 216

cream puff pastry, 268

crème fraîche, 402, 548

crêpes:

savory, 265–6

trout, sautéed, in, 212–13

croutons, 78

crumbs:

brown bread ice cream, 504

as thickener, 43

crumpets, 480

cucumbers, 144, 548

cream vegetable soup, basic, 52–4

poached, 145

salad, 78; Greek, 87; Greek, with radishes and capers, 87; spinach, 80; Turkish, 83–4

sautéed: with cream, 145; with julienne of broccoli, 146; with mushrooms, 145; with snow peas, 146; with yogurt, 145

steamed, 145; with herbs, 145

tomatoes stuffed with smothered cucumbers, 88–9

cullen skink, 68

Cunningham, Marion: minestrone, 60–1

curry:

beef and tomato sauce, 279

butter, 233, 234

and chicken omelet, 257

sauce, 532; sautéed, sole fillets, 200

seafood with rice pilaf, 225–6

dandelion greens:

salad, 556

sautéed, with bacon, 558

tian of mixed greens, 152; and bacon, 152

daube, 377–8

beef: aixoise, 378; niçoise, 379; provençale, 378; provençale, with tripe, 378

lamb, 377–8, 394–5

veal, 414

David, Elizabeth:

poached fish fillets with garlic mayonnaise, 202

stuffed fillet of beef, 367

Dekking, Max:

hussar salad, 105

diable, sauce, 533

Diat, Louis:

vichyssoise, 54–5, 152

diet dishes:

artichokes with vinegar, 120

coleslaw, 89

coquilles St. Jacques, 241

fruit fool with yogurt, 516

onions, 158

pesto, 282

salad dressings, 75, 77–8

spaghetti squash as pasta substitute, 177

vegetables, dressings, 124

dill, 560

butter, 537

in salad, 78

sauce, 202

duck, 313, 549

frozen, 549

kebabs, 340; flamed, 340

liver, 549; with shirred eggs, 251

roast, 338; with cherries, 338–9; with green

olives, 339; wild rice and mushrooms, 295

roasted legs, cassoulet with limas, 306

salad: bean and foie gras, 106; and olives, 104; and orange, 104

skin, 338; hot slaw with red slaw, 92; salad garnish, 104

in white wine, 339

duck, wild, 314, 342, 549

broiled, 344; flambé, 345; with soy sauce, 345; teriyaki, 345

favorite Oregon, 343

roast, rare, 342; with juniper berries, 342; with olives, 342–3

roasted stuffed, 343–4; southern-French-style, 344

salmi of, 345

spitted flamed, 343

stock, 345

Dumas, Alexandre: potato salad, 95

Dutch asparagus, 40

duxelles, 535–6

brown sauce, 533

omelet, 256

roulade of veal Île-de-France, 405

with rutabagas, 187

with scrambled eggs in a tart shell, 254

and tomato sauce, 284

with wild rice, 295

eels, 209–10, 551; to skin and clean, 210

cotriade, 223

Flemish green, 210

matelote, from Normandy, 211

eggplant, 146, 549; to buy, 146

caponata, 34; with tuna, 35

casserole, 147

French-fried, 187

with hamburgers, 383

imam bayildi, 147

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

purée, 33–4

ratatouille, 190; eggs, poached, and cheese, 191; fennel, 191; leeks, 191; mushrooms, 191; spicy, 191

roast shoulder of lamb and tomato, 392

sautéed, 146–7; with bacon, 147; in cornmeal, 147; and onions, 147; with Parmesan cheese, 147; with tomato sauce, 147; tomato slices, broiled or sautéed, 147

eggs, 246–7, 549–50; to freeze or store, 550; to separate, 550; whites, 550; yolks, 550

bagels, 472–3; with onions, 473; with poppy seeds, 473; with sesame seeds, 473

Belgian asparagus, 40

Benedict, 252

Benedictine, 252

Dutch asparagus, 40

frittata, 258; variations, 258–60

hard-boiled: asparagus Italian-style, 39; meat loaf, 384; old-fashioned pickled, 250–1; in onion sauce, 249; with peppers, anchovies, and tomatoes, 6; with tapenade, 36; with tuna, 10

huevos rancheros, 253; with jalapeño peppers, 253; with tortillas, 253

meurette, 253

minina, 261

mollet, pasta with, 285

omelet, basic, 255–6; cold layered, 257–8; fillings, 256–7

pasta, rich, 277

Peruvian, 261–2

pipérade basquaise, 255

poached, 252; with pâté, 252; ratatouille and cheese, 191; roast fillet, 252; sausage, 252; spinach, 252; stewed tomatoes, 181; vegetable purée, 252; Welsh rarebit, 269

sauce, 531

Scotch, 250

scrambled, 253–4; with alfalfa sprouts, 254; brains, 254; chicken hearts and livers en brochette, 31; duxelles in a tart shell, 254; lamb kidneys, 254; mozzarella, 254; peppers, roasted, 254; prosciutto, 254; tomatoes, 254; zucchini blossoms, 176

shirred, 251; duck livers and Madeira, 251; Gruyère cheese, 251; ham, 251; pesto, 251; spinach purée, 251

soufflés, rolled, 263–4

soufflés in pastry, 264–5

stuffed: with sardines, 250; special, 249–50

timbales, 262–3; fillings, 263

elderberry blossoms, deep-fried, 188

Emmenthaler, 246, 545

Swiss cheese salad, 270

endive (Belgian or French; witloof chicory), 556–557

roast chicken sarthoise, 317

salad with beets, 542, 557

turkey divan, 332

escabeche, 15–7

escarole, 557

tian of mixed greens and bacon, 152

wilted, 150

Farmer, Don:

fresh apple cake, 521–2

farmer’s omelet, 256

fat:

barding, 569

goose, 556

lard and pork fat, 321, 417, 497, 508, 562, 569

larding and lardoons, 375, 569

shortening, 592

suet, 594–5

fava beans (broad beans), 541

fennel, 149, 550

ratatouille, 191

in salad, 550

and sardine sauce, 280

tuna salad, with onion, avocado, and egg, 113

vegetable and olive salad with mustard-yogurt dressing, 84–5; blue or Gruyère cheese, 85

fiddlehead ferns, 148

batter-dipped, 148

boiled, 148

cold, 149

field salad (corn salad; lamb’s lettuce), 557

figs:

dried: compote, 514; poached, 506; raisin and pine nut sauce, 281

with prosciutto, 32

filberts, see hazelnuts

finnan haddie, 551

cullen skink, 68

mousse, 9

omelet, 2 56

Scotch vichyssoise, 68

fish and seafood, 192–4, 550–4, 589–92; to buy, 550, cooking time, determination of, 196

à l’Américaine, 223–4

avocado with seviche, 37

bouillabaisse, 220–1

cioppino, 222; with mussels, 222; with oysters, 222

cocotte Manzanilla, 218–219

cold, sauces for, 194

cornmeal breading, 547

court bouillon, white wine, 203

curried seafood with rice pilaf, 225–6

en brochette, 218

essence de poisson, 45

fillets, 196, 554; escabeche, 15–6; frozen, 196; poached, with garlic mayonnaise, 202–3; with tapenade, 36

fillets, broiled, 196–7

with almonds, 197; bacon and green onions, 198; bread crumbs, 198; cheese, 198; herbed butter, 197–8; leftover, marinated, 198; lemon butter, 197; peanuts, 197; provençal, 198; white wine and garlic, 198; white wine and herbs, 198

fillets, sautéed, 199; curry sauce, 200; walnut-breaded, 199

and garlic, 194, 206

hash, 206

Hellenic seafood stew, 219–20

Marseilles soup, 67

with mint, 19–20

mousse, 9–10

poached, 200–1; dill sauce, 202; egg sauce, 202; green mayonnaise, 202; parsley sauce, 202; white butter sauce, 201–2; white wine sauce, 202; yogurt-herb sauce, 202

with risotto, 292

salad, 108; and chicken, 102; tomatoes stuffed with, 89; yogurt dressing, 108

sausages, 194; French, 217–18; French, with crab, 218; French, with shrimp, 218; oyster, 231

seafood soup, 45

solianka, 221–2; with dill, 222

steaks, broiled, 206

stock, 530

Flemish green eel, 210

Flemish leek pie, 267–8

Flemish pot roast, 377

Florence fennel, see fennel

Florentines, 490–1

flounder:

bouillabaisse, 220–1

escabeche, 16

fillets, 556; broiled, 196–197; broiled, variations, 197–8; poached, with garlic mayonnaise, 202–3; sautéed, 199; sautéed, with curry sauce, 200; sautéed, walnut-breaded, 199

salad, 108; yogurt dressing, 108

flour, 554–5

all-purpose, 554

barley, 541

beurre manié, 536

buckwheat, 542, 543

cake, 555

hard-wheat, 555

instant, 555

self-rising, 555

stone-ground, 555

as thickener, 555

whole-wheat (graham), 555

flower blossoms, deep-fried, 188

fontina, 246

fool, 515

gooseberry, 515

raspberry, 516

rhubarb, 516

strawberry, 515

with yogurt, 516

frankfurters, 588

onion and pepper frittata, 259

roast goose with sauerkraut, 341

and sauerkraut salad, 93

sausage en brioche, 436; with mustard, 436

venison chili, 447–8

freezers:

ice cream, 502

sherbet, 499

French-bread-and-butter pudding, 527

French chocolate cake, 517–18

frittata, 258

bean sprouts and pork, 259–60

onion: and artichoke, 259; frankfurter or sausage, 259; ham and potato, 259; spinach, 259; spinach and bacon, 259; tomato, 259; zucchini, 258–9; zucchini with prosciutto, 259

Vanessi special, 260; beans and rice, 260; ham, 260; spinach, 260

frogs’ legs, 555

batter-fried, 243

deep-fried, 243

deviled, 242

fines herbes, 242

Italian style, 242

niçoise, 242

provençal, 242

sautéed, 241–2

southern-fried, 242; with Madeira sauce, 242

fruit:

canned, as dessert, 507

dried, compote, 514; with cognac, 514; with rum, 514

fools, 515–6

pies, 508–10

poached in syrup, 505–6

with prosciutto, 32

raw, as dessert, 506–7

and rice salad, 97

tarts, 510–14

game, see individual listings

garbanzos, see chickpeas

garbure basquaise, 59–60

gratiné, 60

with pigs’ knuckles, 60

garlic, 576, 577–8; to buy, 577; to peel, 577

aïoli, 203

butter, 20, 537; parsley, 336

and fish, 194, 206

purée, 534–5

vinaigrette, 74; with herbs, processor, 74–5

garlic sausage:

cassoulet, 304–5; limas and roasted duck legs, 306

homemade, 434

partridge, braised, with cabbage, 348–9

pheasant, braised, with sauerkraut, 353–4

sausage en brioche, 436; with mustard, 436

ginger, 556, 592; root, to keep, 556

cakes, 487

and lime sherbet, 501

and macadamia nut ice cream, 503

-pumpkin soup, 57

Gino’s macaroons, 490

globe fish, see blowfish

gnocchi:

cornmeal, 301

with pesto, 281

goloubtzys, 136

goose, 313, 555–6

frozen, 340

rillettes, 26

roast: apple and apricot stuffing, 340–1; sauerkraut, 341; wild rice and mushrooms, 295

goose, wild:

gumbo, 346

roast, 346

gooseberries:

fool, 515

poached, 505

gougères, 268

goujonettes of sole, 19

in beer batter, 19

goulash, pork:

and sauerkraut, 427–8

and veal, 428

grapefruit:

and apple salad, 98

sherbet, 501

grapes, 506

Greek salad, 87

with cucumber, 87; radishes and capers, 87

green beans, see beans, green

green mayonnaise, 77

green rice, 289

greens (for cooking), 149–150, 558–9

tian, 152; and bacon, 152

wilted, 150

greens (for salad), 77–8, 556–7

vintner’s salad, 81

green sauce, 372, 373

gremolata, 416

Gribiche, sauce, 535

Gruyère cheese, 246, 544–545

avocado with chicken, ham, and cheese, 37

creamy cheese sauce, 531

garlic bread, 473–4

gougères, 268

Malakoff, 268–9

in salad, 79

soup, 68–9

haddock, 551

fillets, 551, 554; broiled, 196–7; broiled, variations, 197–8; poached, with garlic mayonnaise, 202–3; sautéed, 199

smoked (finnan haddie), 551; cullen skink, 68; mousse, 9; omelet, 256; Scotch vichyssoise, 68

steaks: baked, niçoise, 208; broiled, 206

halibut, 551–2

bouillabaisse, 220–1

salad, 108; yogurt dressing, 108

seafood en brochette, 218

steaks: baked, niçoise, 208; broiled, 206

ham, 570–1

artichokes stuffed with, 121

avocado with chicken and cheese, 37

baked, 571; en croûte, 437–8

boiled, and cabbage, 439

braised: chablisienne, 438–9; Madeira, 439

brioche filled with, 27–8

canned, 571

chicken, braised, stuffed with, 318; mustard and cream sauce, 318–19

country, 570, 571

eggs Benedict, 252

farmer’s omelet, 256

Flemish leek pie, 267–8

frittata, 260; onion and potato, 259

leftover, serving suggestions, 440

and Manka’s babies, 267

meat loaf, 384

omelette savoyarde, 256

and onion stuffing, for beef birds, 374

with prosciutto, 32

ready-to-eat, 570–1

with shirred eggs, 251

slice, baked: arthoise, 441; in champagne, 441; Floridian, 441; in red wine, 441

slice, broiled, 440; barbecued, 440; glazed with honey and mustard, 440; glazed with maple syrup, 440; soy and mustard, 440;

slice, fried, with red-eye gravy, 441–2; variation, 442

Smithfield, 571

soufflé in pastry, 265

timbales, 263

and tomato sauce, 283

Vanessi special, 260

veal birds stuffed with, 409

Virginia, 571; with asparagus, 32; with fruit, 32; spinach and rosemary sauce, 279–280

white beans with cognac and sausage, 303

with wild rice, 295

see also prosciutto

ham, fresh, see pork, leg

hamburgers, beef, see beef, hamburgers

hamburgers, venison, 447

herbed, 447

Hand melons, 573

sherbet, 501–2

hazelnut oil, 74

hazelnuts (filberts), 415, 575

cheesecake, 523–4

praline powder, 518

head cheese, 430–1, 569

hearts, 449

beef, 449, 566; anticuchos, 31

chicken: anticuchos, 31; en brochette, 31; and gizzards, sautéed, 326–327; gizzards and livers, sautéed, 296, 327; and livers en brochette, 30–1

lamb, 569; braised, 456

pork, 570

veal, 572; braised, 455–6

Hellenic seafood stew, 219–220

herbs, 559–61; to buy, 559; to keep, 559; ratio of dried to fresh, 559

butter, 198

green mayonnaise, 77

green rice, 289

green sauce, 372, 373

pâté, 24–5

with rice, 289

in salad, 78

vinaigrette, 74; with garlic, processor, 74–5

yogurt-herb sauce, 202

herring, 6–7, 552

kipper mousse, 10

Madeira, 7

marinated, 7

mustard, 7

pickled, 7

rollmops, 8

salad, 7; tomatoes stuffed with, 89

in sour cream, 7

hollandaise sauce, 532

anchovy-flavored, 532

hominy, 297, 562

casserole, 297–8

sautéed, with cream, 297

honeydews, 573

with prosciutto, 32

sherbet, 501–2

horseradish, 562

applesauce, 422

cream, 9

Hubbard squash, 117, 178–179, 593

baked, 178–9, 593; with bacon, 179; with brown sugar, 179

cream soup, 57

spiced, 177

steamed, 593

see also squash, winter

huevos rancheros, 253

with jalapeño peppers, 253

with tortillas, 253

hussar salad, 105–6

ice cream, 502; freezers, 502

brown bread, 504

caramel, 504

cassis, 504–5

praline, 502–3

raisin and chestnut, 503

imam bayildi, 147–8

Isbel, Tom:

parsley salad, 80–1

Italian link sausages, 433–4, 588; to cook, 435

cassoulet with limas, 305–6

hot, 435

old-fashioned, 434

paella, 293–4

with peppers, sautéed, 166

with polenta, 300

and veal, 435

Italian-style asparagus, 39

Jerusalem artichokes (sun chokes), 121–2

buttered, 122

cream vegetable soup, basic, 52–4

purée, 122

vinaigrette, 122

kadjemoula, 397–8

kale, 150, 558

kasha, see buckwheat, groats

kidney beans, see beans, kidney

kidneys, 449

beef, 567

lamb, 449, 568; omelets, 256; and roast saddle of mutton, 398–9; sauté flambé, 455; with scrambled eggs, 2 54

lamb or veal: broiled deviled, 455; deviled sauté, 455

lamb or veal en brochette, 454; herb butter, 454; mushrooms, 454; mushrooms and bacon, 454; sweetbreads, 454; sweetbreads flambé, 454

lamb or veal “on the half shell,” 453; flambé, 453; mushrooms, 453

pork, 449, 570; deviled sauté, 455; sauté flambe, 455

veal, 449, 572; sweetbreads and sausages, 465; see also lamb or veal above

kielbasa, 588

cassoulet, 304–5; limas and cooked lamb, 306

with kidney beans, 307

partridge, braised, with cabbage, 348–9

sausage and croissant, 29

sausage en brioche, 436; with mustard, 436

kipper mousse, 10

kiwi fruit, 562

poached, 505

knockwurst, 590

onion and pepper frittata, 259

and sauerkraut salad, 93

sausage en brioche, 436; with mustard, 436

Knopf, Mildred, 168

knusper brote, 483

kohlrabi, 562

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

kosher salt, 587

kumquats, poached, 505

lace cookies, 486–7

Lady Curzon soup, 46–7

lamb, 385, 568–9

blanquette of, 396–7

brains, 450, 568

breast, braised stuffed, 393–4

cassoulet, 304–5; with limas, 306; with limas and pork, 306

couscous, 298

crown roast, 387; stuffings, 387–8

en daube, 394–5

hearts, 569; braised, 456

kadjemoula, 397–8

kidneys, 449, 568; broiled deviled, 455; deviled sauté, 455; omelets, 256; and roast saddle of mutton, 398–9; sauté flambe, 455; with scrambled eggs, 254

kidneys en brochette, 454; herb butter, 454; mushrooms, 454; mushrooms and bacon, 454; sweetbreads, 454; sweetbreads flambé, 454

kidneys “on the half shell,” 453; flambé, 453; mushrooms, 453

leg, 568

leg, roast, 568; mock venison, 389; provençal, 388; provençal No. 2, 388; shallots, 388; spoon, 389–90; Swedish, 389; weeping, 389; weeping, with anchovies, 389

with lentils, braised, 310–311

liver, 448, 569; julienne, 452; sautéed, 451–2

mutton, roast saddle of, 398–9

Navarin, 396–7

on a string (à la ficelle), 390–1

rack, roast, 385–6; persillé, 386–7; Quo Vadis, 387

shanks, 569; with beans, 399–400; onions and beer, 400; with ratatouille, 400

shoulder, roast, 391–2; with cream, 392; eggplant and tomato, 392

stock, 396–7

sweetbreads, see sweetbreads

testicles, 569

tongues, 458, 568; pickled, 458–9; poulette, 458; with tomato sauce, 458; vinaigrette, 458

lamb’s lettuce, see field salad

lard, 321, 562; to render, 508

pastry, 497, 562

pie crust, 508

larding, 569

lardoons, cognac-soaked, 375

lasagne with brain sauce, 285

leeks, 152–3, 576, 577; to clean, 152–3

bollito misto, 372–3

braised, 153

microwave-cooked, 153

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

pie, Flemish, 267–8

purée, 154

ratatouille, 191

steamed, 153

vinaigrette, 154

vichyssoise, 54–5; variations, 55

lemons, 563

butter, 197; parsley, 231

meringue bars, 489

pickled, 323

vinaigrette, processor, 75

zest, 563

Lenten buns, 479–80

lentils, 309, 563

braised, with lamb, 310–311

buttered, 310

herbed, 310

puréed, 310

sautéed, 310; with onion, bacon, parsley, for pork crown roast stuffing, 420; with roast spareribs, 431–2

soup, 58; with chard and lemon, 59; with cotechino, 59; with cream, 58; with frankfurters or knockwurst, 58; with ham, 58

lettuce, 556, 557

mixed vegetable sauté, 189–90

romaine soufflé, Philip Brown’s, 150–1

in salad, 77, 556, 557

timbales, 262–3

wilted, 150

see also Bibb lettuce; endive

Lianides, Leon:

black bean soup, 61–2

tripe soup, 42, 62–3

lichee nuts, 563

canned, as dessert, 507

poached, 505

sherbet, 502

lima beans, see beans, lima

limes, 563

and ginger sherbet, 501

and tea sherbet, 502

Linzer bars, 492

liver, 448

beef, 448, 567; meat loaf, 384

calves’, 448, 572; julienne, 452; roast whole, 452–3; Venetian style, 452

chicken, see chicken, livers

duck, 549; with shirred eggs, 251

lambs’, 448, 569; julienne, 452

pork, 448, 570; meat loaf, 384; pâté in brioche, 23–4

sautéed: with avocado, 451; with bacon, 451; deviled, 452; with mustard sauce, 451; with onions, 451; with shallots and Madeira, 451

venison, 597

lobster, 590

Billy’s coleslaw, 90–1

bouillabaisse, 220–1

Hellenic seafood stew, 219–20

Napoule, 236–7

risotto with shellfish, 292

salad: avocado and onion, 110; chicken, 102; chicken and celery, 110; cucumber and egg, 110; mayonnaise, 109; potato and onion, 109; tomatoes and green onion, 111

sausage: fish, 194; French seafood, 217–18

seafood à l’Américaine, 223–4

soufflé, 237

stuffed baked, 235–6

with tapenade mayonnaise, 36

timbales, 263

Louis dressing, 77

lovage, 78

lox, 554

marinated, 8