sides, stocks and sauces
THIS IS AN AREA where many coeliacs can get caught out, as most stocks and sauces contain gluten. Having perfected plenty of recipes, I really don’t see the need for any of these to be flour based, as most work so well without it.
spiced lentils
Lentils are so versatile. They go well with any fish, poultry or meat and are a welcome change from potatoes.
SERVES 4
200g Puy lentils
1 tbsp olive oil
5 shallots, chopped
5 garlic cloves, chopped
1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped
25g root ginger, peeled and chopped
3 sprigs of thyme
3 sprigs of rosemary
500ml chicken stock (here)
1 tbsp caster sugar
Soak the lentils overnight in cold water or for 2 hours before cooking. Once soaked, place the lentils in a sieve and rinse well with running water.
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and sauté the shallots, garlic, chilli and ginger for 3 minutes. Pour in the lentils along with the thyme and rosemary and enough stock to cover and mix well.
Simmer gently for 1 hour, adding more stock if required. If the liquid evaporates too quickly, the lentils won’t cook. Add the sugar and season to taste. Reheat as necessary before serving.
caramelised shallots
These are a smarter version of fried onions and are a delicious accompaniment to most meat dishes or sauces. The final dish should be beautifully tender shallots with a rich buttery and caramel flavour. Caramelised shallots are the ideal accompaniment to steak.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp olive oil
16 shallots, peeled and left whole
35g butter
35g caster, brown or Demerara sugar
100ml chicken stock (here)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the shallots, butter and sugar. Cook gently for 10–15 minutes, until the sugar starts to caramelise and change colour. The shallots will take on a rich, golden colour. Gradually add the chicken stock, allowing each addition to become absorbed before adding more. Season with salt and pepper.
red cabbage and apple
Cooking red cabbage can be as complicated as you like, but I choose to prepare a more simplified version. This vegetable is a great accompaniment to rich meat or game dishes. When shredding the red cabbage, either use a food processor or wear disposable gloves so that it doesn’t stain your hands.
SERVES 4
1 head of red cabbage, finely shredded
4 shallots, finely chopped
3 firm eating apples, cored and sliced
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 sprigs of thyme
3 tbsp brown sugar (Demerara or any type of brown sugar)
2 tbsp water
60g butter
6 tbsp cider vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put all the ingredients except for the butter and cider vinegar into a large saucepan. Cover with a lid and simmer for 1 hour.
Stir in the butter and cider vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook for a further 10 minutes, until the cabbage is tender.
braised carrots with tarragon
The addition of fresh tarragon to these carrots is a classic combination that simply works. It adds a fresh new dimension to the carrots.
SERVES 4
35g butter
15 baby carrots or new season carrots, peeled
30ml chicken stock (here)
salt and white pepper
10g fresh tarragon, chopped
Preheat the oven to 175°C.
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Sweat the carrots for 5 minutes, then add the chicken stock and transfer to an ovenproof dish. Season lightly and cook in the oven for 10–15 minutes. The carrots should be tender and cooked all the way through, with a glossy sheen from the butter. To serve, toss in the fresh chopped tarragon.
fondant potatoes
This is a different twist on a roast potato that’s a little more of a challenge – it’s classical cooking, really.
SERVES 4
4 potatoes, each weighing about
300g peeled
3 tbsp vegetable oil
600ml chicken stock (here)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 sprigs of rosemary
80g butter, cubed, at room temperature salt
Preheat the oven to 175°C.
Cut the potatoes into 4cm or 5cm squares that are 3cm thick. Heat the oil in a small roasting tin on top of the hob over a medium heat. Put the potatoes into the pan and brown lightly on all sides. Pour the stock into the pan and add the garlic and rosemary. Add the cubed butter and season with salt.
Put the roasting tin into the oven and cook for 30 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated and the potatoes are tender. To check if they are fully cooked, test them with a knife – there should be no resistance. While they are cooking, spoon the liquid over the potatoes to glaze them and give them a golden colour.
gratin potato
A luxurious potato dish that you can’t help but eat more and more of.
SERVES 4
10g butter
6 medium potatoes, peeled
salt and white pepper
220ml cream
3 garlic cloves, crushed
Preheat the oven to 170°C. Grease the inside of an ovenproof, ceramic or roasting tin (ideally 20cm x 30cm x 3cm) with the butter.
Slice the peeled potatoes as thinly as possible. If you’re lucky enough to have a mandolin, you can use this, slicing the potatoes no thicker than 0.5cm. Do not rinse the potatoes, as you will remove the starch that is required to make the finished gratin richer. Neatly layer the potatoes in the dish, lightly seasoning each layer.
Mix the cream and garlic together with a little seasoning, then pour it over the potatoes. The potatoes should be completely covered – if not, add more cream.
Bake the potatoes in the oven for 1½ hours, until they are soft, thick and creamy. The top of the baked gratin potato should a golden brown colour. The cooking time may vary slightly, depending on the variety of potato used.
GET AHEAD
I have often used cooked peeled potatoes to make this potato dish, which reduces the cooking time significantly.
chicken stock
Of all the stocks, this is the easiest to make in terms of sourcing the ingredients. There is a noticeable difference between a commercial and a homemade stock.
MAKES 2 LITRES
1.5kg chicken bones or wings
1 large onion, chopped
1 leek, chopped
3 celery sticks, chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 bay leaves
sprig of thyme
sprig of rosemary
Place the chicken bones or wings into a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim to remove any impurities or froth from the top.
Add the onion, leek, celery, garlic and herbs. Simmer gently for 2 hours, skimming as necessary. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 30 minutes.
Pass the stock through a sieve into a bowl. Discard all the ingredients, retaining only the liquid. Use and store as required.
GET AHEAD
This stock can be kept refrigerated for up to three days. Alternatively, you can freeze this stock in batches and use as required.
fish stock
Using a homemade fish stock adds an authentic flavour to any sauces or soups. I find turbot bones are the best when making fish stock. Use the large bones from the fish where possible.
MAKES 2 LITRES
1.5kg white fish bones
10g butter
2 onions, chopped
3 celery sticks, chopped
1 fennel bulb, roughly chopped
1 leek, white part only, chopped
1 lemon, halved
5 sprigs of parsley
5 sprigs of coriander
2.5 litres cold water
Rinse the fish bones under cold water and set aside.
Melt the butter in a heavy-based pan over a low heat. Add the onions, celery, fennel and leek and sweat slowly for about 10 minutes, until soft.
Add the fish bones, lemon halves and coriander and parsley sprigs. Pour in the cold water and bring to the boil. Skim to remove any impurities or froth from the top. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 20 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to cool. Pass the stock through a sieve into a bowl. Discard all the ingredients, retaining only the liquid. Use and store as required.
GET AHEAD
The stock will last for three days in the fridge. Alternatively, you can freeze this stock in batches and use as required.
béchamel sauce
When preparing béchamel sauce, boiling it gives body and stability to the sauce. This is especially important if the sauce is used as a base for any pie. Adding 200g of white Cheddar will make a rich cheese sauce suitable for cauliflower cheese or macaroni.
MAKES 1.5 LITRES
1 onion, peeled and left whole
8 whole cloves
1 litre milk sprig of thyme
100g butter
100g gluten-free plain white flour blend
pinch of grated nutmeg
pinch of salt
pinch of white pepper
Stud the onion with the cloves, then place into a medium-sized pot with the milk and thyme and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes. This allows the onion, cloves and thyme to infuse into the milk, enhancing its flavour. When the time is up, remove the onion and thyme and discard them.
Melt the butter in a heavy-based saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute to make a roux. Gradually add small quantities of the warm milk to the roux, stirring continuously. If you don’t stir constantly or if the milk is added too quickly, the sauce will become very lumpy. When all the milk has been added, bring the sauce to the boil, stirring continuously, then remove from the heat. Stir in a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt and white pepper. Cover with buttered greaseproof paper with a small hole cut out on top to prevent a skin from forming on the sauce.
If you are not happy with the consistency, don’t be afraid to add more milk to lighten the sauce if required.
hollandaise sauce
This is a really versatile sauce. It’s wonderful with fish, eggs and steak.
MAKES 200ML
125g butter, clarified
2 shallots, finely chopped
50ml white wine vinegar
3 egg yolks
50ml white wine
salt and white pepper
To clarify the butter, melt it in a small pot over a medium heat, then remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly, which allows the clear melted butter to rise to the top and the white solids to settle at the bottom. Skim the pure butter from the top and set aside.
Using a medium-sized saucepan, cook the shallots in the white wine vinegar, reducing the liquid but taking care not to discolour the shallots.
Using a large, deep stainless steel or Pyrex glass bowl, add the cooked shallots and liquid, the egg yolks and the white wine and whisk together. Put the bowl over a pot of simmering water, taking care not to let the water touch the bottom of the bowl. Continuously whisk the egg yolk mixture until it’s a light, airy foam.
When the yolks start to thicken, remove the bowl from the saucepan of water. Before adding the melted butter to the egg yolk mixture, ensure the egg yolks are not too hot or the mixture might curdle.
Gradually add the melted butter using a ladle. Continue whisking as you are adding the butter, allowing the butter to become well combined before adding more butter. Once all the butter has been added, taste and season if necessary.
GET AHEAD
If you prepare extra shallot and white wine vinegar reduction, it can be stored in the refrigerator and used as needed. If you want to make the sauce a little bit ahead of time, stir in 1 tablespoon of water at the end to help stabilise it.
béarnaise sauce
Stir in some chopped fresh tarragon at the end of the hollandaise.
onion gravy
This sweet, moreish gravy works very well with most roasts and is delicious with creamed potatoes.
SERVES 4–6
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 large onions, thinly sliced
20g light brown sugar
200ml red wine
100ml beef or chicken stock (here)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a low heat. Add the onions and cook very slowly for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally and check that the onions aren’t burning. They will change colour to a golden brown.
Add the brown sugar, red wine and stock to the onions and allow to simmer for 20 minutes. This should reduce the liquid by half. Taste and season as required.
pepper cream
The perfect sauce to serve with roast beef or steak.
SERVES 4–6
100g red onion marmalade (here)
10g green peppercorns
3 tbsp brandy
150ml chicken stock (here)
150ml cream
salt
Place the red onion marmalade and green peppercorns in a small saucepan. Heat until warmed through, then add the brandy and cook until it has reduced by half and the alcohol has been cooked out, which ensures the sauce will not be bitter. Add the chicken stock and reduce by half. Finally, add the cream and cook a little further, until a sauce consistency is achieved. Taste and season as required.
bread sauce
This sauce is ideal with chicken or duck.
SERVES 6
1 onion, peeled and left whole
8 cloves
800ml milk
250g gluten-free breadcrumbs
50g butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Stud the onion with the cloves, then place into a medium-sized pot with the milk and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes. This allows the onion and cloves to infuse into the milk, enhancing its flavour. Remove the onion from the milk and discard it, then stir in the breadcrumbs and butter and mix together well. Return the sauce to a low heat, taste and correct the seasoning. Serve immediately.
apple and calvados sauce
This is a wonderful sauce to serve with any pork dishes. It’s also the perfect accompaniment to the black and white pudding terrine here.
MAKES 150ML
50g butter, cubed
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced
30ml Calvados (apple brandy)
200ml good-quality chicken stock (here)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place a 1 litre saucepan over a medium heat, add about 10g of butter and let it melt. Add the diced apples and sauté for 2 minutes, then add the Calvados. Simmer until the apple brandy has reduced by half, keeping in mind that the Calvados may flame when burning off the alcohol. Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil, then gradually add the rest of the butter, stirring continuously for 2 minutes. Taste and season as required.
homemade tomato ketchup
This homemade ketchup has the same texture and consistency of a shop-bought ketchup. It’s easy to make, stores well in the fridge and doesn’t contain any unnecessary preservatives.
MAKES 600ML
100g Demerara or caster sugar
300ml cider vinegar or white wine vinegar
1kg ripe tomatoes, quartered
100g tomato purée
20g gluten-free English mustard
10g sea salt
3 garlic cloves, crushed
3 bay leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
2 cloves
1 tsp ground coriander
dash of Tabasco
Place the sugar and vinegar in a heavy-based saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add all the remaining ingredients and bring to the boil, stirring to prevent the mixture from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Once it reaches the boil, reduce the temperature to a simmer, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes.
Remove the bay leaves, cinnamon sticks and cloves and blend the remaining mix in a food processor or liquidiser. Push the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve to produce a smooth consistency. Taste again to correct the seasoning and pour into a clean jar with a tight-fitting lid.
GET AHEAD
This ketchup will keep for up to three weeks in the refrigerator.
tomato sauce
This rich tomato sauce works well with any pasta or as a pizza base.
MAKES 800ML
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 celery stick, chopped
1 leek, white part only, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
5g root ginger, peeled and chopped
sprig of thyme sprig of rosemary
100g light brown sugar
100ml red wine
30ml red wine vinegar
4 x 400g tins of chopped tomatoes
10g fresh basil leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion, celery, leek, garlic, ginger, thyme and rosemary and cook for 3 minutes without letting the vegetables colour. Add the sugar, red wine and red wine vinegar and cook for a further 3 minutes. Stir in the chopped tomatoes and reduce the heat to the lowest setting.
Cover the sauce with a disc of greaseproof paper and allow the sauce to cook slowly for 1 hour. When the sauce has reduced and thickened, add the fresh basil leaves. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then use a hand-held blender to purée the sauce. Taste and season if required.
GET AHEAD
This sauce will keep for up two weeks in an airtight container in the fridge. However, it does not freeze well.
mayonnaise
It’s a great accomplishment to succeed at making your own mayonnaise. The difference in taste is immense.
MAKES 500ML
3 egg yolks, at room temperature
2 tsp white wine vinegar
2 tsp Dijon mustard
500ml vegetable oil
fine sea salt and ground white pepper
Whisk the egg yolks with the white wine vinegar and Dijon mustard in a food processor at full speed for 1 minute. Turn the food processor to half speed and add the vegetable oil very slowly – it should take 2–3 minutes to fully incorporate the oil. The finished product should be creamy and rich. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Homemade mayonnaise will keep for up to one week in an airtight container in the fridge.
mango mayonnaise
Add 200ml of mango purée to the mayonnaise at the end. Mango mayonnaise works well with crab cakes (here), prawns in tempura (here) and red onion marmalade (here).
red onion marmalade
A great accompament to any salad, fish or meats.
MAKES APPROX. 1KG
150g butter
2.5kg red onions, thinly sliced
6 garlic cloves
1 chilli, deseeded and chopped
2 tsp chopped fresh thyme
200g light brown sugar
500ml red wine
300ml red wine vinegar
300ml port
Melt the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan over a low heat. Add the onions, garlic, chilli and thyme and slowly cook for 30 minutes. Add the sugar, red wine, vinegar and port. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer for 1½ hours, keeping an eye on it and stirring occasionally from time to time.
Spoon into clean glass jars or other airtight containers.
GET AHEAD
This red onioin marmalade will keep in the fridge for up to four weeks.
basil oil
A herb oil is a wonderful light dressing on its own over salad leaves or simply drizzled over bruschetta or chargrilled or roasted vegetables.
MAKES 500ML
200g fresh basil leaves
500ml olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
salt
Bring a small pan of salted water to the boil. Plunge the basil into the water for 5 seconds, then remove the basil immediately and put into cold water. Once cooled, drain and squeeze it.
Put the basil into a blender with the olive oil, crushed garlic and some salt. Blend until it becomes green and the basil seems to have disappeared. Strain the herb oil through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any bits to give it a smooth finish. Pour the oil into a covered container.
GET AHEAD
Basil oil will keep in the fridge for up to two weeks.
honey mustard dressing
This is one of our house dressings at The Olde Post Inn. It is certainly tried and tested.
MAKES 150ML
1 garlic clove, crushed
3 tbsp honey
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
125ml sunflower or olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the garlic, honey, mustards and balsamic vinegar in a food processor and whizz to combine. With the motor still running, slowly pour in the oil, allowing the oil to combine with all the ingredients and emulsify. Using a spatula, remove the dressing from the food processor. Season with salt and pepper. Store in a sealed container.
GET AHEAD
This dressing will keep for up to two weeks in the fridge.
wild garlic pesto
There is an abundance of wild garlic available around April. It is easily identified by its pungent smell and it makes a wonderful pesto.
MAKES 220ML
40g pine nuts
200g wild garlic leaves
80g Parmesan cheese, grated
200ml extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Toast the pine nuts in a dry frying pan until they are light brown, taking care not to let them burn. Leave to cool.
Blend the cooled pine nuts, wild garlic, Parmesan and extra virgin olive oil in a food processor to form a thick paste. Season with the sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Taste and adjust if necessary.
GET AHEAD
Stored in a sealed container in the fridge, the pesto will keep for up to two weeks.
tartare sauce
MAKES 300ML
300ml mayonnaise
15g capers, chopped
2 medium gherkins, chopped
2 hardboiled eggs, peeled and chopped
1 dessertspoon finely chopped fresh parsley juice of
½ lemon
Place all the ingredients in a bowl and combine well. This shouldn’t need any seasoning.