PANE, FOCACCIA, E PIZZA
BREAD, FOCACCIA, AND PIZZA
FOCACCIA PUGLIESE
Olive and Tomato Flatbread
Makes three 10- to 12-inch focaccie
Just as Naples is the capital of Italy’s thick-rimmed wood-fired pizza pies, Bari and its surrounding towns are home to a beloved regional flatbread, Focaccia Pugliese. This rich, high-hydration dough is baked in seasoned sheet pans at places like Panificio Fiore on Strada Palazzo di Città in Bari Vecchia. The pan is drenched in oil before the dough is stretched into place, so when it all goes into the oven, the dough practically fries as it bakes, rendering the bottom crispy and pleasantly charred. This recipe features cherry tomatoes and olives, but you can use onions or even blind-bake the dough, omitting the toppings and just seasoning with salt and herbs.
350 grams (1½ cups) filtered water
200 grams (1⅔ cups) bread flour, plus more for dusting
300 grams (1¾ cups) farina di semola rimacinata (fancy durum flour; see this page)
100 grams (3½ ounces) riced boiled potato, cooled
2 grams (½ rounded teaspoon plus a pinch) active dry yeast
12 grams (2 teaspoons) sea salt, plus more as needed
5 grams (1 rounded teaspoon) sugar
155 grams (¾ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
500 grams (1 pound) mature cherry tomatoes
About 30 black olives
3 grams (1 tablespoon) dried oregano
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the water, bread flour, farina di semola rimacinata, riced potato, yeast, salt, sugar, and 50 grams (¼ cup) of the olive oil. Mix on low for 2 minutes, then increase the speed to medium and mix for 18 minutes more. The dough will come together and become smooth and slightly sticky.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, allowing it to gently release from the bowl, and cut it into 3 equal pieces, weighing about 330 grams (11½ ounces) each, with a dough scraper or knife. Shape each piece into a ball and place each separately on a deep plate generously greased with olive oil. Brush lightly with olive oil and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside to rise at room temperature for 2 hours, until almost tripled in size.
Pour 25 grams (2 tablespoons) of the olive oil into a 10- to 12-inch pan (see Note), tilting the pan to coat the entire bottom and 1 inch up on the sides. Turn one of the dough balls out into the pan. Using greased fingertips, carefully push and stretch the dough into the shape of the pan, taking care not to tear it.
Gently press a third of the halved cherry tomatoes, cut-side down, and about 10 olives into the dough, distributing them evenly. Cover the pan with a clean kitchen towel and set aside to rise at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°F with the rack in the center position.
Remove the towel and sprinkle about 1 teaspoon of the oregano over the dough. Season with salt. Drizzle 10 grams olive oil over the dough, distributing it evenly. Using greased fingertips, press into the dough around the tomatoes and olives to form dimples.
Place the pan over medium-high heat. When the oil starts to bubble and crackle, cook for 3 minutes more. Check the underside of the dough by gently lifting it with a heatproof spatula. It should be a very dark golden color. If it has not browned, cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute more.
Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the focaccia has a dark golden crispy crust, about 17 minutes; focaccie brown irregularly, so having darker spots mixed with lighter parts is normal. Transfer the focaccia to a wire rack and allow to cool for 5 minutes before slicing.
Repeat with the remaining dough, cooling the pan and allowing the oven to return to the desired temperature before baking the next focaccia.
NOTE To get the unique texture of Focaccia Pugliese, you need to bake with intense heat from underneath. Since these conditions are difficult to replicate in a home oven, you will get the best results by using a frying pan or skillet with only metal and no plastic or wood parts for baking the focaccie. If you have enough all-metal 10- to 12-inch-diameter pans for all three focaccie, you can prepare them simultaneously. Otherwise, bake one and store the others in the refrigerator until you are ready to bake them to prevent them from overfermenting at room temperature.
PUCCE ULIATE
Olive Rolls
Makes 8 pucce
Salento, the extreme southern tip of Puglia’s long and varied region, is home to some of Italy’s most ancient olive trees. Some bear fruit for oil, while others grow olives for brining. They appear whole (pit in—watch out!) in breads throughout the region, including in pucce, Salento’s typical bread. These small durum wheat olive rolls have been modified from the Salentine recipe to exclude the pits!
325 grams (2 cups) farina di semola rimacinata (fancy durum flour; see this page), plus more for dusting
175 grams (1 cup plus 2 tablespoons) bread flour
2½ grams (scant 1 teaspoon) active dry yeast
9 grams (1½ teaspoons) sea salt
10 grams (2 teaspoons) honey
30 grams (2 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
370 grams (1½ cups) filtered water
120 grams (¾ cup) Gaeta olives, pitted and halved lengthwise
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the farina di semola rimacinata, bread flour, yeast, salt, honey, olive oil, and 250 grams (1 cup) of the water. Mix on low speed until there is no more dry flour in the bowl, about 3 minutes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow to rest for 20 minutes. Return the bowl to the mixer, then mix on medium and add the remaining water a little bit at a time over the course of 3 to 4 minutes. When all the water has been incorporated, increase the speed to medium-high and mix for 8 minutes more, until the dough is smooth and elastic. Reduce the speed to low, add the olives, and mix until incorporated.
Place the dough in a medium bowl greased with olive oil. With one hand, lightly grasp one edge of the dough. Pull this flap of dough upward and outward, then attach it to the top of the dough. Turn the bowl a 45 degree turn and repeat until you have rotated the bowl a complete turn. Flip the dough over, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator to rise at 39°F to 41°F for 12 hours.
Meanwhile, cover a clean, dry work surface with a thick layer of durum flour. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Wet your hands and pinch off pieces of about 125 grams (4½ ounces) each. Pass the pieces through the durum flour and transfer to the prepared baking sheet, spacing at least 2 inches apart. Using the palm of your hand, press down on the dough to flatten. Cover the whole baking sheet with plastic wrap and allow to rise at room temperature for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 475°F with a rack in the center position.
Remove the plastic wrap from the dough and spray the pucce with water. Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 410°F. Bake until the pucce take on a golden color and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom, about 15 minutes more.
Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool to room temperature.
CASATIELLO
Easter Bread
Serves 12
South Italy’s tables are renowned for their decadent holiday meals, but nothing quite rivals the multi-day feast of Easter. Especially after the ascetic Lenten period, devout Catholics are eager to break their fast and commemorate the resurrection with symbolic foods. For South-dwellers and especially Neapolitans, Casatiello is the iconic savory bread for this holiday time. The best versions feature lard from recently slaughtered pigs (see this page) and inlaid eggs symbolizing the Resurrection.
FOR THE DOUGH
600 grams (4¾ cups) bread flour
2 grams (1 teaspoon) active dry yeast
10 grams (2 teaspoons) sea salt
1 gram (2 large pinches) freshly ground black pepper
50 grams (¼ cup) lard, plus more for greasing
300 grams (1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons) filtered water
FOR THE FILLING
60 grams (2 ounces) lard, at room temperature, plus more for the pan
2 grams (heaping 1 teaspoon) freshly ground black pepper
75 grams (2½ ounces) finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
150 grams (5 ounces) salami, cut into ½-inch cubes
150 grams (5 ounces) cooked ham or mortadella, cut into ½-inch cubes
150 grams (5 ounces) provolone or emmenthal cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes
60 grams (2 ounces) semi-aged pecorino, cut into ½-inch cubes
60 grams (2 ounces) cured pancetta, cut into ½-inch squares, ⅛ inch thick
60 grams (2 ounces) prosciutto, cut into ½-inch squares, ⅛ inch thick
4 hard-boiled eggs (optional)
1 egg, beaten
Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour, yeast, salt, pepper, lard, and filtered water. Mix on low until the dough starts to come together and there is no more dry flour in the bowl, about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and mix until smooth, elastic, and soft, but not sticky, about 10 minutes.
Turn the dough out onto a work surface, shape into a tight ball, and return to the bowl of the stand mixer. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest at room temperature until it has almost tripled in size, about 3 hours.
When the dough has risen, make the filling: If you are going to bake eggs into the top of the casatiello, cut away about 60 grams (2 ounces) of the dough and set it aside to use as “egg cages.” Roll out the remaining dough into a rectangle that measures approximately 12 × 20 inches. (This can be done on an unfloured surface thanks to the fat content of the dough, which will keep it from sticking.) Using a spatula, spread the lard over the dough. Sprinkle the pepper and Pecorino Romano over the lard. Distribute the salami, ham, provolone, semi-aged pecorino, pancetta, and prosciutto over the dough, pressing lightly and leaving a 1-inch border along the edge of the long side of the dough farthest from you.
Starting from the long side closest to you, roll up the dough as tightly as possible without tearing it so you have a 20-inch-long roll. Seal the roll by pinching the seam along its entire length, then pinching closed the open ends, stuffing in any rogue bits of cheese or salami before sealing.
Grease a Bundt pan. Fit the roll snugly inside, connecting the ends by pinching them together. Place the 4 hard-boiled eggs (if using) on top of the dough, spacing them an equal distance apart. Gently press them into the dough. Roll the reserved dough into 8 equal strands and fasten them around each egg in the sign of a cross. Press the ends into the top of the casatiello. Cover with a kitchen towel and set aside to rise at room temperature for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Brush the egg over the dough and bake until the casatiello starts to brown, about 1 hour. If it darkens too quickly, cover with aluminum foil for the remaining baking time.
Remove the casatiello from the oven and set aside to cool for 1 hour before unmolding. Unmold and allow the casatiello to rest on a wire rack for 2 hours and up to 18 hours before slicing.
Serve at room temperature or lightly toasted.
PIZZA CHIENA
Egg and Ham Pie
Serves 12 to 15
Dialect for “stuffed pizza,” the name pizza chiena barely does justice to this very decadent savory tart, which is packed with a potpourri of hams and cheeses all stuffed into an unctuous, flaky crust.
FOR THE DOUGH
500 grams (4 cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2¾ grams (1 rounded teaspoon) active dry yeast
Pinch of sugar
11 grams (2 rounded teaspoons) sea salt
1 egg
200 grams (¾ cup plus 2 teaspoons) filtered water
80 grams (3 ounces) lard, at room temperature, plus more for greasing
FOR THE FILLING
11 medium eggs
250 grams (9 ounces) ricotta (I like sheep’s-milk ricotta)
150 grams (5 ounces) primo sale cheese or queso blanco, cut into ½-inch cubes
150 grams (5 ounces) provolone or scamorza cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes
125 grams (4½ ounces) mozzarella, cut into ½-inch cubes
60 grams (2 ounces) sharp pecorino or cheddar, cut into ½-inch cubes
60 grams (2 ounces) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
120 grams (4 ounces) salami, cut into ⅓-inch cubes
200 grams (7 ounces) sliced ham, cut into 2-inch squares
150 grams (5 ounces) sliced prosciutto, cut into 2-inch squares
2 grams (1 heaping teaspoon) freshly ground black pepper
Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour, yeast, sugar, salt, egg, and water. Mix on low until the dough comes together and there is no more dry flour in the bowl, about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and mix, adding the lard a little at a time, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and soft, but not sticky, about 10 minutes.
Turn the dough onto a floured work surface, shape it into a tight ball, and return it to the bowl of the stand mixer. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest at room temperature for 2½ hours, or until it has at least doubled in size.
Meanwhile, make the filling: In a large bowl using a handheld mixer, beat together 10 of the eggs and the ricotta until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the primo sale, provolone, mozzarella, pecorino, Parmigiano-Reggiano, salami, ham, prosciutto, and pepper and stir.
Preheat the oven to 350°F with the rack in the center position. Lightly grease a 9-inch springform pan. Line a baking sheet with parchment.
Assemble the pizza: Divide the dough into two unequal pieces, about two thirds and one third. Roll out the larger piece of dough on a well-floured work surface to a diameter of at least 16 inches. Transfer it to the prepared springform pan, gently pressing it into the corners and up the sides, repairing any holes. The dough should overhang the sides of the pan. Roll out the smaller piece of the dough, then use a knife or pastry wheel to cut it to the exact diameter of the pan.
Pour the egg mixture into the dough-lined pan. Cover with the second piece of dough. Beat the remaining egg and brush some of it along the edges of the dough cover. Fold the overhanging dough over the egg-moistened dough lid and press to attach. Brush the dough all over with egg. Make a small hole in the center of the dough to allow steam to escape.
Place the pan on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until the filling is set and the crust is golden brown, about 1¼ hours. If the dough takes on too much color, cover with aluminum foil for the remaining baking time. Remove from the oven and set aside for at least 30 minutes before releasing from the springform pan. Allow to rest at room temperature for at least 12 hours before slicing.
Kneading Dough
All the doughs in this chapter can be mixed by hand with some small changes. Hand-kneading takes a bit more time, so simply add a few minutes to the time suggested for mixing with a stand mixer.
Mixing and kneading by hand puts you in direct contact with the dough and forges a bond between you and the final product. It will also give you a greater understanding of how flour and water react, what happens to the dough as it ferments, how strong it is, and when it is perfectly risen. No matter how tacky the dough is, it will develop and tighten up naturally as the gluten develops. When you have mastered the basics—including how the dough interacts with the humidity of your climate and kitchen—you can start to play with small changes to the recipe.
If intense kneading isn’t your thing, you can add a few 15- to 20-minute resting periods between rounds of kneading. If you do add extra resting periods, just be sure to delay adding the yeast—add it halfway through the kneading process, rather than at the beginning, in order to avoid overfermenting the dough. Bloom the yeast in a few tablespoons of warm water, then add it to the dough as you knead.
For recipes that already have 20- to 30-minute rest periods between kneading sessions, you can add one single rest period. For recipes without rest periods, the dough can handle two 15- to 20-minute rest periods spaced out over three kneading sessions.
IMPASTO PER LA PIZZA NAPOLETANA
Neapolitan-Style Pizza Dough
Makes enough dough for four 12-inch pizzas
Thick-rimmed Neapolitan-style pizza has become synonymous with Italy, and it is arguably the country’s most famous export. In Naples, as elsewhere, this popular food is baked in a domed wood-burning oven, but this recipe has been adapted for your home oven so you can enjoy the chewy crust and elastic dough of pizza napoletana in your own home—though if you can, take a trip to Naples, specifically Pizzeria da Attilio, 50 Kalò, and La Notizia, for the real deal. Plan ahead to make this pizza, as the cold, slow rise in the refrigerator takes at least 20 hours. Recipes for a classic Margherita pizza and three pizzas inspired by the south and its famed pizza makers follow.
590 grams (5 scant cups) bread flour, plus more for dusting
1¾ grams (½ rounded teaspoon) active dry yeast
380 grams (about 1½ cups) cold filtered water
12 grams (2 teaspoons) sea salt
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour, yeast, and cold water. Mix on the lowest speed until the dough just comes together and there is no more dry flour in the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to hydrate at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Return the bowl to the stand mixer and mix on medium-low speed. Add the salt and mix for 20 minutes more to build strength and until the dough is very smooth and elastic.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, shape it into a tight ball, and transfer to a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at 39°F to 41°F for at least 20 hours and up to 30 hours.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, allowing it to gently release from the bowl, and cut it into 4 equal pieces, weighing about 250 grams (9 ounces) each, with a dough scraper or knife.
Working with one piece of dough at a time, take the four corners and pull and fold them into the center to attach. Do not flatten. The dough will tighten up and take on a round shape. Flip the dough seam-side down. Place the palm of your hand on top of the ball, resting your thumb and pinkie against the sides and your other fingertips on the counter. Gently move the ball in circles, taking care to prevent any tears to create a tight, even ball. Repeat this process with the remaining dough pieces. Place the shaped dough balls on a greased baking sheet. Brush lightly with oil and cover the whole baking sheet with plastic wrap. Set aside at room temperature until the dough has nearly doubled in size, about 2 hours.
Forty-five minutes prior to baking, preheat the oven and broiler to high and set an inverted baking sheet or a baking stone on the second to highest rack to preheat as well.
Place one dough ball on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on top. Starting in the center, work the dough into a small disc by pushing your fingers flat into the dough, leaving the edge untouched. Flip over the disc and continue until you have a round disc about 8 inches in diameter.
To stretch the dough to the desired size, drape it over the back of your hands and knuckles, fingers bent inward. Gently rotate the dough, stretching it little by little until it is around 12 inches in diameter.
Transfer the shaped dough to a pizza peel or a parchment paper–lined inverted baking sheet. Top as directed in the recipe that follows, and transfer the pizza to the preheated baking sheet or baking stone (see Note). Bake until the crust is lightly charred around the edges and the toppings are cooked, 4 to 6 minutes. Repeat with the remaining dough balls, allowing the oven and the pizza stone or baking sheet to reheat for 10 to 15 minutes before baking the next pizza.
Serve immediately.
NOTE A baking stone will give your pizza a better crust, better volume, and incomparable lightness. If you do not have one, an inverted baking sheet or unglazed quarry tiles will work as substitutes. For the best results, preheat the stone or inverted baking sheet on the second rack from the top for at least 45 minutes before baking your pizza. Recipe cooking times depend upon your baking surface and will be shorter if you use a stone.
PIZZA MARGHERITA
Margherita Pizza
Makes one 12-inch pizza
The south’s most iconic pizza features cow’s-milk mozzarella, tomato sauce, and basil.
Dough for 1 pizza crust (this page)
3½ ounces canned whole tomatoes
Sea salt
Pinch of dried oregano
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4½ ounces mozzarella, cut into ½-inch cubes, excess water squeezed out
5 fresh basil leaves
Shape the dough as directed on this page.
Place the tomatoes in a medium bowl and blend with an immersion blender, or crush by hand, until they are broken down to a chunky puree. Season with salt, oregano, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.
Spoon the tomato sauce over the pizza dough to the edge of the raised border, then distribute the mozzarella evenly. Bake as directed on this page.
Garnish with the basil leaves and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.
PIZZA ALL’ALTO CASERTANO
Alto Casertano Pizza
Makes one 12-inch pizza
Inspired by Franco Pepe’s dessert pizza at Pepe in Grani (see this page), the toppings evoke the flavor of Franco’s native subregion of Campania. Use the highest quality lard you can find.
Dough for 1 pizza crust (this page)
1½ tablespoons lard
¼ cup fig jam
½ cup shaved Conciato Romano or Pecorino Romano
Freshly ground black pepper
Shape the dough as directed on this page.
Spread the lard over the pizza dough to the edge of the raised border. Bake as directed on this page.
Drizzle the fig jam over the melted lard, distribute the Conciato Romano shavings evenly, and season with pepper.
LA MARINARA RIVISITATA DI ATTILIO BACHETTI
Attilio’s Marinara Pizza
Makes one 12-inch pizza
At Pizzeria da Attilio, a pizzeria in Naples that opened in 1938, pizzaiolo Attilio Bachetti customizes the traditional marinara pie, adding Pecorino Romano, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and basil leaves to the classic tomato and garlic toppings.
Dough for 1 pizza crust (this page)
3½ ounces canned whole tomatoes
Sea salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ garlic clove, sliced paper thin
2 teaspoons finely grated Pecorino Romano
2 teaspoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
5 fresh basil leaves
Shape the dough as directed on this page.
Place the tomatoes in a medium bowl and blend with an immersion blender, or crush by hand, until they are broken down to a chunky puree. Season with salt and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Spoon the tomato sauce over the pizza dough to the edge of the raised border, then distribute the garlic evenly. Bake as directed on this page.
Sprinkle the pizza with the Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano, garnish with the basil leaves, and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.
PIZZA CON ’NDUJA E FIOR DI LATTE
’Nduja and Mozzarella Pizza
Makes one 12-inch pizza
Calabrian ingredients meet Campanian ones on this pie topped with a spicy spreadable salami and mozzarella made from cow’s milk.
Dough for 1 pizza crust (this page)
2 ounces canned whole tomatoes
Sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
4½ ounces mozzarella, cut into ½-inch cubes, excess water squeezed out
3 ounces ’nduja
5 fresh basil leaves
Shape the dough as directed on this page.
Place the tomatoes in a medium bowl and blend with an immersion blender, or crush by hand, until they are broken down into a chunky puree. Season with salt and the olive oil. Spoon the tomato sauce over the pizza dough to the edge of the raised border, then distribute the mozzarella and ’nduja evenly over the sauce. Bake as directed on this page.
Garnish with the basil leaves.
Pizza is never just pizza. Bits of history, culture, and politics are always woven into its glutinous strands. And in Caiazzo, a once declining village 30 miles from Naples in Campania’s Alto Casertano subregion, pizza is life. The deity is Franco Pepe, a tall, lean vision in white, widely recognized as Italy’s (and hence, the world’s) greatest pizzaiolo. His pizzeria, Pepe in Grani, serves masterfully crafted, supremely delectable, highly digestible, thick-rimmed pizzas made from the best ingredients available. But its importance isn’t limited to craft or flavor.
The pizzeria occupies a three-story stone building situated in a steep alley in Caiazzo’s historical center. More than a few locals questioned Franco’s sanity when he decided to open in what was then a desolate place. But the six hundred pizzas he serves on busy nights, coupled with the narrow alley packed daily with people waiting for tables, would seem to prove otherwise. Pepe in Grani has become a veritable pizza pilgrimage destination since it opened in 2012. Diners come from Naples, Rome, Milan, and beyond to eat Franco’s pizzas. Their visits bring revenue to the town’s shops, bars, and parking meters.
Pepe in Grani has also stimulated Alto Casertano’s agricultural life. Franco works closely with small producers and local farms to obtain the ingredients for his pizzas and calzones. One of his greatest assets is Vincenzo Coppola, a young agronomist dedicated to discovering and preserving the biodiversity of the area. Together they are seeking to revive an indigenous grain dubbed autonomia that was abandoned in the 1950s. They recovered seeds from a ninety-year-old farmer, and now the grain is once again harvested and milled locally.
They also work with La Sbecciatrice farm to grow heirloom tomatoes like the pomodoro riccio and vernino genuino, as well as chickpeas and beans. Pepe tops his pizzas with these and other local products, like Letino potatoes, onions from Alife, and mozzarella from Il Casolare in Alvignano.
Each pizza Franco produces is the result of a set of choices: He and his team have chosen to highlight the natural bounty of their region. They have chosen to stay in Caiazzo in spite of the obstacles it presented initially and continues to present. They have chosen to forge responsible relationships with the land, their producers, and their clientele. Every pizza is the fruit of thoughtful planning, planting, producing, and harvesting, which respects the rhythms of nature and transmits flavor. It will simply change the way you think about food.
Go taste for yourself, and you’ll see this is not hyperbole. Like I said, it’s not just pizza.
FRISELLE
Italian Rusk
Makes 12 friselle
Summers in the south are hot—and they’re getting hotter. Home cooks there have to find a delicate balance between cooking from scratch and not fainting from heatstroke. In that spirit, they have devised recipes that minimize the amount of heat needed to prepare meals. Friselle, baked dough rings known for their long shelf life, are one such hack. They used to be eaten by sailors and fishermen who needed nonperishable foods for their long voyages. Friselle are twice-baked and designed to be too hard to eat on their own, so to make them palatable, they must be broken up, drizzled with water, and served with a flavorful seasonal topping. I love them with capunata (this page) or with simple tomato and basil, but you can build your own.
To start, you’ll need to prepare the biga, a type of pre-ferment, which gives a more complex flavor and a more desirable dough than would be achieved with active dry yeast alone. The biga must be made the day before you plan to bake the friselle.
750 grams (6½ cups) type “2” flour, plus more for dusting
1 recipe Friselle Biga (recipe follows)
15 grams (2½ tablespoons) sea salt
3 grams (1 teaspoon) active dry yeast
575 grams (2½ cups) cold filtered water
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour, biga, salt, yeast, and 400 grams (1¾ cups) of the cold water and mix on low until the water has been absorbed, about 5 minutes. With the mixer running, add the remaining water about 50 grams (¼ cup) at a time until it all has been incorporated, then mix for 3 minutes more to strengthen the dough.
Transfer the dough to a large, lightly oiled bowl. Brush with oil and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside to rise in the warmest part of your kitchen until it has almost doubled in size, about 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 475°F.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces using a dough scraper or a knife. Gently roll each piece into a ball. Dust with flour, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and allow to rest for 20 to 30 minutes.
Using your thumb and index finger, gently poke a hole in the center of each dough ball and gently stretch the dough to resemble the size and shape of a large bagel. Set on a lightly floured baking sheet and allow to rest for 20 minutes.
Bake the friselle until hard and lightly golden, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove the friselle from the oven and set aside to cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F. When the friselle are cool, slice them in half as though you are halving a bagel. Return to the oven and bake, halves separated, working in batches as needed, until they are crispy and fully dried, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside to cool. To serve, break into pieces, soften with a few tablespoons of water, and serve with the toppings of your choice.
Friselle Biga
Makes enough for 12 friselle
60 grams (2 ounces) filtered water
90 grams (¾ cup) bread flour
1/6 gram (pinch) active dry yeast
Neutral oil (see this page), for greasing
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the water, then the flour, then the yeast. Mix for 5 minutes on medium speed. The dough should be fairly dry. Transfer the biga to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Remove the biga from the refrigerator and allow it to ferment at room temperature for 10 to 12 hours, until it doubles in size. Use as directed in the recipe.
PANE DI MATERA
Matera-Style Durum Wheat Bread
Makes two 10-inch loaves
This bread made from farina di semola rimacinata (see this page) is named for Matera, an ancient city in eastern Basilicata close to vast grain fields. For centuries, bakers have milled durum wheat and fermented it using sourdough starter. The shape of the loaf is unique to each bakery, but all make three incisions in the surface of the dough before baking to represent the Holy Trinity. You will need to prepare a sourdough starter hydrated to 50 percent at least a week ahead of baking the bread. One hundred percent semolina loaves can be challenging for beginners, but practice makes perfect!
150 grams (5.3 ounces) 50% hydration Lievito Madre (this page)
430 grams (1¾ cups plus 1 tablespoon) filtered water
600 grams (3½ cups) farina di semola rimacinata (fancy durum flour; see this page), plus more for dusting
1¾ grams (½ rounded teaspoon) active dry yeast
13 grams (2 rounded teaspoons) sea salt
Neutral oil (see this page), for greasing
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the starter with 360 grams (1½ cups) of the filtered water and set aside for 5 minutes to hydrate, then break up, partly dissolve, and mix using your hands or a wooden spoon. Fit the mixer with the dough hook and add the farina di semola rimacinata to the bowl. Mix on low speed until there is no more dry farina di semola rimacinata in the bowl, about 2 minutes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes. This helps with the hydration of the very hard farina di semola rimacinata granules and will help them attain elasticity.
Add the yeast to the bowl and mix on low speed for 25 minutes, slowly adding the salt and remaining water, alternating the two, over the course of 5 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and mix for 5 minutes more. The dough should be smooth, elastic, and somewhat shiny.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, shape into a ball, and place in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Set aside to rise at room temperature until the dough doubles in size, about 1¾ hours.
Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface, allowing it to gently release from the bowl. Using your fingertips, press down gently to deflate. Divide the dough into two equal pieces using a dough scraper or a knife. Working with one piece of dough, grasp one side and fold it two thirds of the way across the dough, then fold the opposing side over the first flap like a letter. Starting at the short end facing you, roll the dough away from you into a loose roll.
Position the dough so the seam is facing downward. Press down gently so the seam closes. Repeat with the second piece of dough.
Transfer both pieces of dough to a floured baking sheet. Lightly dust the surface of the dough with flour and cover the baking sheet tightly with plastic wrap. Set the dough aside to rise at room temperature until it has doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 480°F. Set a baking stone or an inverted baking sheet on the center rack to preheat as well.
When the dough has risen, transfer it to a lightly floured work surface, seam-side up. Sprinkle a little bit of flour over the dough. Working with one piece of dough at a time, press down gently on the dough to deflate it partially, working the dough into a rectangular shape measuring about 10 × 8 inches and 1 inch thick. Starting with one of the shorter sides, fold in the four corners until they meet in the middle. Roll one corner of the folded rectangle toward the center of the dough. Stop before reaching the center. Turn the dough 180 degrees and repeat with the opposing corner. You should now have two “rolls” connected by a thinner piece of dough in the middle. With the side of your hand, press down on the center piece to compact it. Fold one of the “rolls” over the center piece and press it against the other “roll.” You should now have two stacked rolls. Press down slightly on the rolls and press hard on the thinner piece connecting the rolls.
Dust the loaves with a little bit of flour and cover with plastic wrap on the work surface. Allow to rest for 15 minutes.
When the loaves have rested, uncover them and, using a sharp knife, make three vertical cuts at equal distance in the side where the “rolls” are joined together. Transfer the loaves to a pizza peel or a parchment paper–lined inverted baking sheet (see this page). Reshape them slightly by curving the ends to form a crescent shape, opening the cuts somewhat.
Transfer the loaves (including the parchment paper, if using an inverted baking sheet) onto the preheated baking sheet or baking stone in the oven. Spray with a bit of water to create some steam and immediately close the oven door.
Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 420°F. Bake until the loaves are very dark brown, feel light, and sound hollow when tapped on the underside, about 1 hour.
There are thousands of grain varieties in the world and many of them arrived in Italy from the east in the Iron Age. Grains were grown for feeding animals and milling to make flour for bread baking—and even a little pasta making. Today, grain is milled into flour throughout Italy in a range of settings, from large industrial complexes to small, artisanal operations, and even in homes. While the types of grains—and therefore flours—may not be identical to those outside Italy, as long as you know how flour works, you can execute authentic South Italian doughs wherever you are.
All-Purpose Flour
As the name implies, all-purpose flour is a versatile product that can be used in a range of recipes. That’s not to say it’s the best flour for all recipes, though. It’s milled to be white and tasteless, so it’s not ideal for bread baking, for which you want the raw ingredients to impart flavor and character, but it’s just fine for making piecrusts and simple doughs that will be filled or paired with something with a lot of its own flavor.
Bread Flour
Bread flour’s name is also descriptive. It is relatively high in protein—it averages between 11 percent and 14 percent—making it suitable for bread-baking because the protein imparts strength and facilitates rising, enabling the dough to stretch as it traps air in its gluten network during fermentation. It is often made from a blend of different grains that are milled separately, then mixed together to create a flour with the necessary characteristics for achieving a reliable bread dough. Using bread flour in the pizza dough recipe on this page results in a chewier-than-normal crust, which is critical for replicating the signature texture of pizza napoletana (this page).
Durum Wheat Flour
Durum wheat, referred to as semolina or semola di grano duro, is used in bread baking and pasta making and tends to be high in protein, often coming in at around 14 percent. Durum means “hard” in Latin, and durum’s hardness makes it great for achieving an al dente “bite” in cooked pasta doughs. Its gluten network, created when flour is hydrated, lacks elasticity, however, so it can make strong, short, thick pasta shapes like orecchiette (see this page) and carrati (see this page) but isn’t great for long, thin pasta strands that need to “stretch.”
In Italy, durum wheat flour takes on a number of forms. Semolino is a really coarse grind and is used for porridges, desserts, and couscous-like pastas. Farina di semola is ground to medium fineness, has a deep yellow color, a lot of flavor, and is used for making pasta. Farina di semola rimacinata, on the other hand, is fine, whiter than farina di semola, and is ideal for baking. In the US, farina di semola is called semolina flour or pasta flour. Meanwhile, durum flour may be coarse like farina di semola or fine like farina di semola rimacinata. To be sure you are chosing the correct flour for baking, look for so-called fancy durum flour, which is farina di semola rimacinata.
U FICCILATÌDD
Fennel Seed Bread
Makes one 10-inch bread ring
As opposed to most breads from Basilicata, Italy’s capital of durum wheat production, u ficcilatìdd uses grano tenero, a bread flour made with soft wheat. This light, glossy bread is baked in a range of shapes, from simple rings to complex braided wreaths. You will need to prepare a sourdough starter hydrated to 50 to 60 percent (see this page) at least 1 week ahead of baking the bread.
100 grams (3½ ounces) 50 to 60% hydration firm mature Lievito Madre (this page)
125 grams (½ cup) filtered water
290 grams (1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons) bread flour
15 grams (1 tablespoon) extra-virgin olive oil
8 grams (1½ tablespoons) sea salt
2 grams (1 teaspoon) fennel seeds
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the starter, filtered water, and 80 grams (½ cup) of the flour. Mix on low speed until the mixture is smooth and creamy, about 2 minutes. Cover the bowl and set aside for 20 minutes.
Fit the mixer with the dough hook. Add the olive oil, salt, fennel seeds, and the remaining flour to the sourdough mixture. Mix on medium speed for 12 minutes. The dough will become smooth, firm, and silky.
Turn the dough onto an unfloured work surface. Roll into a 6 × 16-inch rectangle. Brush the surface with a bit of water.
Starting from the long end closest to you, roll the dough away from you as tightly as possible, forming a tight 16-inch-long roll. Seal the seam by pinching the dough. Join the ends of the roll and pinch together to form a ring.
Place the dough ring on a baking sheet lined with parchment and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator at 39°F to 41°F to cold-rise for at least 12 hours and up to 16 hours.
Remove from the refrigerator and place the baking sheet in a fairly warm place (77°F to 86°F) to rise until it has doubled in size, 4 to 6 hours.
Preheat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the center position.
Using a sharp knife, make four cuts about ½ inch deep into the surface of the dough. The ends of the incisions should touch, forming a rectangle in the ring. Spray the dough with water and transfer to the oven. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 390°F and bake for 20 minutes more or until the bread sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.
Transfer to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature before serving. Slice and serve with U Morzeddhu e Baccalà (this page).
Lievito Madre
Sourdough Starter
500 grams (17.6 ounces) bread flour
500 grams (17.6 ounces) whole rye flour
Filtered water, at room temperature
In a large resealable container, combine the flours.
In a small glass bowl, combine 100 grams (3½ ounces) filtered water and 100 grams (3½ ounces) of the flour mixture and mix until smooth. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and allow the mixture to sit at room temperature for 48 hours.
Begin to check for signs of fermentation, such as bubbles on the surface and around the edges of the mixture. Cover and allow to sit for another 24 hours. Check again to confirm that the bubbling has intensified. You should be able to smell the wonderfully musty and acidic aromas of fermentation.
Place 25 grams (.88 ounce) of the fermented starter in a small bowl, discarding the remainder. Add 1.76 ounces (50 grams) of filtered water and 1.76 ounces (50 grams) of the reserved flour mixture and mix well. Cover and allow to sit at warm room temperature for 24 hours. Repeat the feeding and discarding process once more.
To hydrate to 50 to 60 percent, place 50 grams (1.76 ounces) of the starter in a small bowl and add 50 grams (1.76 ounces) of room-temperature filtered water and 110 grams (3.88 ounces) of the flour mixture. Knead it together into a smooth dough. Cover and allow to sit at room temperature for 12 hours.
Place 50 grams (1.76 ounces) of the fermented starter in a small bowl, discarding the remainder. Add 50 grams (1.76 ounces) of room-temperature filtered water and 100 grams (3.5 ounces) of the flour mixture. Repeat the discarding and feeding process every 12 hours for about 1 week. You will observe the rise and fall cycle: volume will increase after feeding, then decrease. The aromas will change as well: at first funky and acidic, followed by pleasantly sour aromas reminiscent of yogurt. On the day prior to using, feed the starter twice, 12 hours apart.
To make bread with another kind of flour (semolina, for example), make the two last feedings before baking with that particular flour instead of the flour mix.
Continue to perpetuate the remaining sourdough following the same base recipe of 50 grams (1.76 ounces) mature sourdough starter blended with 50 grams (1.76 ounces) of filtered water and 100 grams (3.5 ounces) of the flour blend every 12 hours. If you’re not baking for a few days or can’t maintain your sourdough starter, you can slow down the fermentation process through refrigeration. First, feed the starter normally, leave it for 2 hours at room temperature, then transfer to the refrigerator. You can feed the starter this way every 48 hours. Just be sure to do at least two 12-hour room-temperature feeding cycles prior to using.
To scale up the recipe, adjust the discarding and feeding amounts. For example, to make 400 grams (14.1 ounces) of starter, combine 100 grams (3.5 ounces) of the starter with 100 grams (3.5 ounces) of water and 200 grams (7 ounces) of flour blend. Allow the starter to mature for 4 to 8 hours, until doubled in size following a feeding, before using.
NOTE To make a successful sourdough starter, forget about cup measurements and weigh everything on a kitchen scale.
’A PIZZA CO’ L’ERVA
Vegetable Calzone
Serves 8
Deep in the heart of Irpinia, a rural region in the southeastern part of Campania, Good Friday is commemorated with solemn processions and lean meals. Because Christ was crucified on a Friday, the Catholic Church implemented a meatless diet on all Fridays out of respect, which meant fish and vegetable dishes were the only permissible ones. The rule was loosened in the 1960s, but meatless vegetable pies are still a staple in the region, and while the wild greens mix changes from house to house, you’re likely to find the last winter escarole and the first spring greens, like Swiss chard and spinach, baked with a sweet-and-savory mix of pine nuts, raisins, and anchovies.
FOR THE DOUGH
500 grams (4 cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2½ grams (1 rounded teaspoon) active dry yeast
11 grams (2 rounded teaspoons) sea salt
70 grams (¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon) extra-virgin olive oil
200 grams (¾ cup plus 1 scant tablespoon) filtered water
FOR THE FILLING
Sea salt
1,000 grams (2 pounds) mixed greens (Swiss chard, collard greens, kale, spinach)
60 grams (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
1 garlic clove, smashed
5 small anchovy fillets, cleaned (see this page)
25 grams (3 tablespoons) pine nuts
25 grams (3 tablespoons) raisins
75 grams (¼ cup) Gaeta olives, pitted and roughly chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour, yeast, salt, olive oil, and water. Mix on low speed until there is no more dry flour in the bowl, about 3 minutes. Increase the speed to medium-low and mix for 12 minutes. If mixing by hand (see this page), knead for at least 15 minutes.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and form into a tight ball. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and allow it to sit at room temperature until it has at least doubled in size, about 2½ hours.
Make the filling: Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Salt the water (see this page). When the salt has dissolved, blanch the greens until soft, 2 to 5 minutes, depending on the type. Work in batches as needed, allowing the water to return to a boil before adding the next batch. Drain and spread the greens out on a baking sheet to cool for 20 minutes. When cool enough to handle, gently squeeze out any excess water and chop the greens into 1-inch pieces.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil begins the shimmer, add the garlic and anchovies and cook until the garlic just turns golden and the anchovies melt into the oil, about 3 minutes. Add the pine nuts and cook for about 1 minute. Add the greens, raisins, and olives. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until the greens are cooked through. Remove the skillet from the heat and spread out the mixture to cool to room temperature.
Assemble the pizza: Preheat the oven to 410°F with racks in the center and lowest positions. Lightly grease a 9-inch springform pan with olive oil.
Divide the dough into two unequal pieces, about two thirds and one third. Roll out the larger piece of dough on a well-floured surface to a thickness of about 3 millimeters (⅛ inch) and a diameter of at least 16 inches. Transfer it to the prepared pan, gently pressing it into the corners and up the sides, repairing any holes. The dough should overhang the sides of the pan. Meanwhile, roll out the smaller piece of the dough to the same thickness, then use a knife or pastry wheel to cut it to the dimensions of the pan.
Transfer the vegetable mixture into the dough-lined pan, spreading it into an even, compact layer. Fit the second piece of the dough over the vegetables. Brush the edge of the top piece of dough with water and fold the overhanging dough over it, pressing gently to seal. Cover and allow to rise at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Brush the dough all over with olive oil. Make a small hole in the center of the dough and prick with a fork all over.
Bake the pizza for 10 minutes on the lowest rack, then brush a second time with olive oil. This will give the crust a little extra shine when baked, but there won’t yet be any visual difference in the dough. Drizzle more oil around the pizza between the dough and the pan. Transfer the pizza to the center rack, reduce the oven temperature to 350°F, and bake for 25 minutes more, until the crust is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for at least 30 minutes before removing from the pan, then let cool to room temperature on a wire rack before slicing.
