SQUASH PRESERVES

(Zuccata)

Makes about 1.25 kg/2½ lb

2 dozen fresh jasmine flowers (see note)

225 ml/8 fl oz water

900 g/2 lb gone-to-seed summer squash (the more tasteless the variety the better)

675 g/1½ lb(approximately) sugar

350 ml/12 fl oz water

Soak the freshly picked jasmine flowers overnight in 225 ml/8 fl oz of water. Filter the jasmine water and reserve.

Peel the squash, cut it in half lengthways, and cut into 12 cm/5 inch pieces. Cook in abundant boiling water until tender. Drain; place, seeds down, on a tray; and dry in the sun for 2 hours (longer, I should think, if your sun is less than Mediterranean in intensity).

Remove the seeds, cut into very small cubes, and weigh. Put into a heavy saucepan with an equal weight of sugar and 350 ml/12 fl oz of water. Cook over a low flame, stirring frequently. After the first 15 minutes, add the cup of jasmine water, and continue to cook until the preserves are thick. Pour into sterilised jars and seal.

Note: For the jasmine water you could substitute rosewater or orange water or a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon.

Another Sicilian dessert that is absolutely and unequivocally Oriental in origin is gelo di melone, a corn flour pudding made with watermelon juice. To get the full Arabian Nights effect, this pudding should be chilled and served in individual cups, its pale rose surface sprinkled with chopped pistachios and shaved chocolate, and decorated with jasmine flowers.