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Chef Tory McPhail at Commander’s Palace.

Dining Best Bets


Best Celebrity-Chef Meal

★★★ Emeril’s $$$ 800 Tchoupitoulas St. (p 102)

Best Classic Creole Restaurant

★★ Arnaud’s $$$ 813 Bienville St. (p 99)

Best Modern Creole

★★★ Coquette $$ 2800 Magazine St. (p 100)

Best Diner

★★ Camellia Grill $ 626 S. Carrollton Ave. (p 100)

Best Burger

Port of Call $ 838 Esplanade Ave. (p 106)

Best Fried Chicken

★★ Willie Mae’s Scotch House $ 2401 St. Ann St. & 7457 St. Charles Ave. (p 108)

Best Bakery

★★★ Willa Jean $ 611 O’Keefe Ave. (p 108)

Best Upscale Cajun Restaurant in an Old House

★★★ Brigtsen’s $$ 723 Dante St. (p 99)

Best Balcony Dining

★★ Tableau $$$ 675 St. Peter St. (p 108)

Most Romantic

★★★ Upperline $$ 1413 Upperline St. (p 108)

Best Breakfast

★★★ Elizabeth’s $$ 601 Gallier St. (p 102)

Best Neighba’hood Italian

★★ Liuzza’s $ 3636 Bienville St. (p 105)

Best Po’ Boy

★★★ Parkway Bakery $ 538 Hagan Ave. (p 106)

Best Place to Find Locals

Verti Marte $ 1201 Royal St. (p 108)

Best Expense Account Blowout

★★★ Restaurant August $$$ 301 Tchoupitoulas St. (p 106)

Best All-Around New Orleans Dining Experience ★★★

Commander’s Palace $$$ 1403 Washington Ave. (p 100)

Best Ice Cream

★★★ The Creole Creamery $ 4924 Prytania St. (p 101)

French Quarter Dining

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Central Business District Dining

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Uptown Dining

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Carrollton/Mid-City Dining

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Dining A to Z


★★ Antoine’s FRENCH QUARTER FRENCH/CREOLE    The oldest restaurant in the city (since 1840—and still run by the same family), Antoine’s is one of New Orleans’s most lauded and popular upscale establishments. It’s all white tablecloths and doting waiters—what’s not to love? Start with oysters Rockefeller (invented here) and finish with the flashy, flaming baked Alaska; you can’t go wrong with anything in between. Be sure to take a tour, too. 713 St. Louis St.  504/581-4422. www.antoines.com. Reservations recommended. No sandals or T-shirts; collared shirts for men. Entrees $27–$48. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. Map p 96.

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Chef Frank Brigtsen.

★★ Arnaud’s FRENCH QUARTER CREOLE    Old New Orleans culture haunts you like a splendid specter here, from the moody antique lighting to the dark, butter-rich sauces. Expect traditional crab cakes and shrimp Creole; fantastic fish dishes and solid steaks. Fire up dessert with tableside bananas foster; then venture upstairs for a peek at founder Germaine Wells’s early-20th-century haute Carnival couture Worth it. 813 Bienville St.  504/523-5433. www.arnaudsrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Business casual. Entrees $27–$42. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly, jazz brunch Sun. Map p 95.

★★★ Bayona FRENCH QUARTER INTERNATIONAL    A vanguard of modern New Orleans cuisines, chef-owner Susan Spicer serves palate-tempting, international-inflected cuisine in a 200-year-old Creole cottage—one of the city’s most romantic spots. Sweetbreads with lemon caper butter are a signature dish; rabbit preparations are consistent standouts as are the vegetarian options. 430 Dauphine St.  504/525-4455. www.bayona.com. Reservations required for dinner. Entrees $29–$36. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Wed–Sat, dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 95.

★★★ Brigtsen’s CARROLLTON CREOLE/ACADIAN    The moment you step inside this tucked-away, 19th-century Victorian cottage, hostess Marna Brigtsen will make you feel at home. Chef Frank Brigtsen insists on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients, and the flavor profiles of his traditional-but-refined preparations are flawless. When available, order the mile-high seafood platter. 723 Dante St.  504/861-7610. www.brigtsens.com. Reservations required. Entrees $21–$34. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sat. Map p 98.

3334.jpg Café Maspero FRENCH QUARTER SANDWICHES/SEAFOOD    An extensive menu with plenty of familiar items, good prices, decent food, and a big room make this a solid choice for families and just about everyone (except the most demanding gourmands). 601 Decatur St.  504/523-6250. www.cafemaspero.com. Entrees $4.25–$9. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 95.

★★ 3350.jpg Camellia Grill UPTOWN DINER    Take the St. Charles Avenue streetcar until the Riverbend, where it makes a big right turn. Hop off. Head to white columned building. Sit at the counter with your linen napkin, banter with the feisty waiters, order a simple burger or omelet, finish with a slice of grilled chocolate pecan pie, a la mode. Perfection. 626 S. Carrollton Ave.  504/309-2679. All items under $15. MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Map p 98.

★★★ Casamento’s MAGAZINE STREET SEAFOOD    The lines might be longer at Acme Oyster House in the French Quarter (724 Iberville St.), but we’re sending you Uptown for the best bivalves and the best shucker in the best, old school, tile-walled setting. Get ’em raw, chargrilled, and in the fried oyster loaf. 4330 Magazine St www.casamentosrestaurant.com.  504/895-9761. $9–$25, No credit cards. Lunch Tues–Sat, dinner Thurs–Sat. Closed late May to early Sept and major holidays. Map p 97.

★★ Cochon CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CONTEMPORARY CAJUN    Rustic Cajun cuisine is amped up with a modern hand at this mega-popular, multi-award winner. We can vouch for pretty much all the small plates and boucherie. Though pork is its forte, the soul-warming skillet-baked rabbit and dumplings is also stupendous. 930 Tchoupitoulas St.  504/588-2123. www.cochonrestaurant.com. Reservations strongly recommended. Small plates $8–14, main courses $16–29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 96.

★★★ Commander’s Palace GARDEN DISTRICT CREOLE    Still the ultimate, all-around New Orleans dining experience, in our opinion. Stellar service; cuisine that references the Creole past and superbly, deliciously brings it into the present (legendary chefs Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse got their starts here); elegant but playful decor; a massive wine cellar; and prix-fixe options that won’t break the bank. But it’s the welcoming, unstuffy atmosphere that perennially nets Commander’s our top spot, and that of tourists and locals alike. 1403 Washington Ave.  504/899-8221. www.commanderspalace.com. Upscale dress, jackets preferred at dinner; no shorts or T-shirts. Entrees $36–$45, brunch $27–$32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner nightly, jazz brunch Sat–Sun. Map p 97.

★★★ Compere Lapin CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT MODERN SOUTHERN    Nina Compton, a runner-up and fan favorite of the Food Network’s Top Chef, melds a touch of her Caribbean roots with farm-fresh local ingredients and classic French techniques, resulting in clean, crisp creativity on the palate. Killer cocktails too. 535 Tchoupitoulas St.  504/599-2119. www.comperelapin.com. Entrees $24–$32. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 96.

★★★ Coquette MAGAZINE STREET BISTRO    Coquette is smart and polished in both style and cuisine, and chef/owner Michael Stoltzfus’ culinary creativity keeps it ever fresh. His dedication to ingredient perfection, and the top talent heading the bar and pastry programs, make Coquette a favorite. Spring for the tasting menu if you can. 2800 Magazine St.  504/265-0421. www.coquettenola.com. Reservations highly recommended. Friday 3-course lunch $30; 5-course blind tasting $70; dinner entrees $25–32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Fri, dinner daily, Sat & Sun brunch. Map p 96.

Lunch at Compere Lapin.

3364.jpg Court of Two Sisters FRENCH QUARTER CREOLE    The exposed brick, soothing fountain, and jazz music add up to a stronger impression than the food, which includes takes on Creole-style fish, fowl, and beef. Reasonably priced children’s menu available. 613 Royal St.  504/522-7261. www.courtoftwosisters.com. Reservations recommended. Entrees $25–$35; Jazz Brunch $29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Brunch & dinner daily. Map p 95.

★★★ 3377.jpg The Creole Creamery UPTOWN DESSERT    This neighborhood ice cream parlor looks like a throwback to the 1950s but boasts traditionally and totally modern taste combinations, like lavender honey, Chinese five-spice, and earl grey. If you can’t decide, choose a sampler with four or six mini-scoops. 4924 Prytania St.  504/894-8680. www.creolecreamery.com. Everything under $10. No credit cards. Sun–Thurs noon–10pm, Fri–Sat noon–11pm. Map p 97.

★★ Croissant d’Or FRENCH QUARTER SANDWICHES/PASTRIES    A quiet French bakery in which to sip delicious iced coffee and munch flaky chocolate croissants, mini apple tarts, quiche, and crunchy tuna-salad sandwiches. 617 Ursulines Ave.  504/524-4663. www.croissantdornola.com. Entrees $8 and under. MC, V. Breakfast & lunch Wed–Mon. Map p 95.

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There’s a flavor for everyone at the Creole Creamery.

Dooky Chase TREME CREOLE/SOUL FOOD    Upscale, soul food from renowned, history-making nonagenarian chef-matriarch Leah Chase and grandson Edgar “Dook” Chase IV, a Le Cordon Bleu grad. 2301 Orleans Ave.  504/821-0600. www.dookychaserestaurant.com. Entrees $9–$26. No credit cards. Lunch Tues–Fri dine in or take out, dinner Fri. Map p 98.

Old-fashioned calas with maple syrup at Elizabeth’s in Bywater.

★★★ 3389.jpg Elizabeth’s BYWATER BREAKFAST/CREOLE    It’s out of the way, but one taste of the sweet, crispy praline bacon, and you’ll understand why the location is no obstacle. 601 Gallier St.  504/944-9272. www.elizabethsrestaurantnola.com. Entrees $8.50—$17. MC, V. Breakfast & lunch daily, dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 95.

★★★ Emeril’s CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CREOLE/NEW AMERICAN    Who doesn’t know the “Bam” man? Don’t dismiss his namesake restaurant due to his mega-star status. Instead, indulge. There’s a reason he got so famous—and it’s on proud, delectable display on every plate at this flagship, fine-dining establishment, where the food and service are kicked up more than a notch. 800 Tchoupitoulas St.  504/528-9393. www.emerilsrestaurants.com/emerils-new-orleans. Reservations recommended. Entrees $24–$60; degustation menu available (arranged in advance). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner daily. Map p 96.

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Emeril’s dining room.

★★ Galatoire’s FRENCH QUARTER FRENCH    Grab Tennessee Williams’s table (in the main window, in front of the word “Restaurant”) and prepare to be satiated by extravagant multicourse French meals prepared from recipes that have been in the family since 1905 and served generations, especially for the ritualistic Friday lunch. 209 Bourbon St.  504/525-2021. www.galatoires.com. Reservations accepted for 2nd-floor dining room only. Jackets required for dinner and on Sun. Entrees $21–$42. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sun. Map p 95.

French cuisine at Galatoire’s.

★★ Gautreau’s UPTOWN FRENCH    The flickering candlelight, Parisian-style trompe l’oeil on the walls, and tin ceiling set a romantic mood in this soigné, brilliantly converted neighborhood drugstore. (The original antique apothecary cases now display wine and liquor.) The inventive, modern menu changes seasonally, but the seafood options never disappoint. 1728 Soniat St.  504/899-7397. www.gautreausrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Business casual. Entrees $25–$35. AE, MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 97.

★★ Guy’s UPTOWN SANDWICHES    Owner Marvin Matherne will personally make you the best grilled-shrimp po’boy you’ve ever had. Be sure to grab lots of napkins because that fresh French bread can soak up only so much buttery juice. 5259 Magazine St.  504/891-5025. Sandwiches $6.50–$12. No credit cards. Lunch Mon–Sat. Map p 97.

★★★ GW Fins FRENCH QUARTER SEAFOOD    This shrine to seafood is a grown-up restaurant, to be sure, where preparations are stylish but never upstage the star: bratty fresh fish from the Gulf and far afield. You can’t miss with the signature “scalibut” (thin-sliced scallop “scales” atop grilled halibut) or lobster risotto, complemented by a smart wine list. End with the pretzel-crusted salty malty ice cream pie. 808 Bienville St.  504/581-3467. www.gwfins.com. Reservations recommended. Collared shirts for men; better jeans; no shorts or flip-flops. Entrees $21–38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Dinner daily. Map p 95.

★★ 3404.jpg Hansen’s Sno-Bliz UPTOWN DESSERT    Ernest and Mary Hansen founded this family favorite back in 1939; their granddaughter Ashley continues to run it today. Ernest’s snowball machine invention creates such finely shaved ice that it’s like eating snowflakes. While waiting in line, check out the fun wall of photos of past patrons. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St.  504/891-9788. www.snobliz.com. Cash only. Tues–Sun 1–7pm, open spring–fall. Map p 97.

★★★ Herbsaint CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT FRENCH/NEW AMERICAN    Chef-owner Donald Link, a local culinary demigod (with good reason) offers hearty but sophisticated Southern comfort food in an upscale bistro setting. 701 St. Charles Ave.  504/524-4114. www.herbsaint.com. Reservations recommended. Entrees $26–$34. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 96.

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Fish dinner at Gautreau’s.

★★ Jacques-Imo’s Café CARROLLTON CREOLE/SOUL FOOD    Enjoy your stuffed pork chop or fried chicken seated in the truck parked outside and be the envy of all. It’s funky and fun inside, too. 8324 Oak St.  504/861-0886. www.jacques-imos.com. Reservations required for parties of 5 or more. Entrees $19–$37. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 98.

Pineapple and necta-cream Sno-Bliz from Hansen’s Sno-Bliz.

★★ Josephine Estelle CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT ITALIAN    Located in the über-hip Ace Hotel, the restaurant is not at all too cool for regular people—and it’s superb. Any of the crudo starters are recommended; also do your best to work your way through the entire pasta selection. 600 Carondelet St.  504/930-3070. www.josephineestelle.com. Entrees $14–$35. AE, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Map p 96.

★★ K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen FRENCH QUARTER CAJUN    Chef-founder Paul Prudhomme’s left quite a legacy: his signature blackened redfish, which started the Cajun food craze. It’s still delicious, in a po’boy at casual and affordable lunch or at dinner, when white tablecloths and higher prices prevail. 416 Chartres St.  504/596-2530. www.kpauls.com. Reservations recommended. Business casual. Entrees $27–$36. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Thurs–Sat, dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 95.

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Herbsaint dining room.

★★★ Killer Po’Boys FRENCH QUARTER SANDWICHES    It’s a pop-up. It’s a restaurant. It’s so good, it’s both. “Little Killer” is permanently popped in the back of a bar; “Big Killer” has a larger space and menu. Its bun-based bodaciousness includes a banh mi play: a seared gulf shrimp po’boy with flavors of coriander, lime, and sriracha; and rum and ginger glazed pork belly with lime slaw. The name fits. www.killerpoboys.com. Big Killer: 219 Dauphine St.;  504/462-2731. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Little Killer: 811 Conti St. in Erin Rose Bar.  504/252-5745. Wed–Mon noon–midnight. Sandwiches $8–13. Cash only. Map p 95.

Dinner in the truck at Jacques-Imo’s.

★★★ Latitude 29 FRENCH QUARTER INTERNATIONAL/POLYNESIAN    Founder Jeff “Beachbum” Berry—who literally wrote the book on Tiki—proves it’s more craft than kitsch. His temple to the mid-century trend pays reverence through perfect cocktails (teeny umbrellas included) and excellent, updated Polynesian food. Don’t skip the riblets. 321 N. Peters St. in the Bienville House Hotel.  504/609-3811. www.latitude29nola.com. Entrees $14–$29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 3–11pm; Fri–Sat noon–midnight. Map p 95.

★★ Lilette UPTOWN CREOLE/FRENCH    Classic French fare meets experimental Creole flair in a highly refined but cozy corner bistro. 3637 Magazine St.  504/895-1636. www.liletterestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Entrees $22–$37. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sat. Map p 97.

★★ 3420.jpg Liuzza’s MID-CITY ITALIAN/SANDWICHES/SEAFOOD    Locals have loved the simple comfort food here—including pastas, salads, and sandwiches—since 1947. Massive frosty mugs of Abita beer are a must. 3636 Bienville St.  504/482-9120. www.liuzzas.com. Entrees $10–$20. No credit cards. Lunch daily, dinner Tues–Sat. Map p 98.

3430.jpg Mother’s CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT BREAKFAST/CREOLE/SANDWICHES    Nothing fancy, just good, greasy Creole diner food, from po’boys to hot plates. 401 Poydras St.  504/523-9656. www.mothersrestaurant.net. Entrees $9–$25. AE, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Map p 96.

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Josephine Estelle in the Ace Hotel.

★★ Mr. B’s Bistro FRENCH QUARTER CONTEMPORARY CREOLE    A Brennan family favorite among businesspeople and politicians brokering lunchtime deals in the dark wood booths. The barbequed shrimp is legendary; crab cakes and Gumbo Ya-Ya are also excellent. 201 Royal St.  504/523-2078. www.mrbsbistro.com. Entrees $26–$38. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, jazz brunch Sun. Map p 95.

★★ Palace Café FRENCH QUARTER CONTEMPORARY CREOLE    Part of the Brennan family of restaurants, Palace Café offers creative takes on seafood, pork, and seasonal specialties, plus an excellent upstairs floor rum bar. We enjoy the Parisian-style sidewalk tables. For dessert? four words: white chocolate bread pudding. You’re welcome. 605 Canal St.  504/523-1661. www.palacecafe.com. Entrees $23–$34. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily, brunch Sun. Map p 95.

★★★ Parkway Bakery MID-CITY SANDWICHES    We worried when, after the Obamas dined here, tour buses started rolling in and rows of picnic tables were installed. The lines lengthened but quality didn’t suffer at this 100-year-old-plus survivor. Known for jam-packed po’boys like the perfectly fried shrimp, drippingly juicy roast beef, and crisp fried oyster (Mon and Wed only), we’re also fond of the reuben and the sides. Don’t skip the banana pudding. 538 Hagan Ave. 504/482-3047. www.parkwaypoorboys.com Everything under $18. Sandwiches $4–$19. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Wed–Mon. Map p 96.

★★★ Pascal’s Manale UPTOWN ITALIAN/SEAFOOD/STEAKHOUSE    Order a dozen and josh with Uptown T, the legendary oyster shucker. Then strap on a bib and get the decadent barbecued shrimp (also legendary). 1838 Napoleon Ave.  504/895-4877. www.pascalsmanale.com. Reservations recommended. Entrees $17–$39. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 97.

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August’s Trout Pontchartrain.

Port of Call FRENCH QUARTER HAMBURGERS    The wait may be long but when you’re craving an anti-slider (read: huge, juicy burger) and loaded tater, it’s worth it. 838 Esplanade Ave.  504/523-0120. www.portofcallnola.com. Entrees $12–$27. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 95.

★★★ Restaurant August CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CONTEMPORARY FRENCH    Executive chef/Food Channel superstar John Besh applies his native Louisiana instincts to graceful, French-based dishes in an elegant, upscale setting. 301 Tchoupitoulas St.  504/299-9777. www.restaurantaugust.com. Reservations recommended. Entrees $35–$42. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch Fri, dinner daily. Map p 96.

★★ Restaurant R’evolution FRENCH QUARTER NEW LOUISIANA    Food world icons John Folse and Rick Tramonto take Creole cuisine in globe-hopping directions keyed to New Orleans’ influences with big-league, big-idea, big-ticket dining in a fanciful but refined setting. Get the deep, dark “Death by Gumbo” with baby quail, and lustrous duck liver mousse. Then its shrimp and grits or the divine tournedos of beef. 777 Bienville St. (in the Royal Sonesta Hotel).  504/553-2277. www.revolutionnola.com. Reservations recommended. Entrees $33–$52. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Wed–Fri; dinner daily; Sun brunch. Map p 95.

★★★ Sac-a-Lait CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT MODERN RUSTIC SOUTHERN    Take ideas and ingredients found and honed at hunting and fishing camps. Add imagination. Turn up to 11. This rustic, game-driven cuisine is anything but unpolished, and not for the culinarily cautious, but you will be rewarded. Start at the raw bar; then try the house specialty Lost Fish, and the rich, brimming river gumbo. 1051 Annunciation St.  504/324-3658. www.sac-a-laitrestaurant.com. Entrees $22–$45. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Fri & Sun; dinner Tues–Sat. Map p 96.

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Hummus dish at Shaya.

★★★ Shaya UPTOWN ISRAELI    Who comes to New Orleans and dines on…Israeli food? You, if you’re wise (and you can get a reservation). Fresh, modern Mediterranean flavors; silken hummus; and endless little bowls of mezze (like the signature, peppery lutenitsa) might be what garnered Shaya the James Beard award for Best New Restaurant. Or perhaps it’s the addictive puffs of pita bread. No, we’re sure it’s the slow roast lamb shank in a creamy pool of whipped feta. 4213 Magazine St.  504/891-4213. www.shayarestaurant.com. Mezze & small plates $9–22; entrees $12–18 lunch; $18–36 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 97.

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Butter-poached lobster with sheep’s milk ricotta gnocchi at R’evolution.

★★ Sylvain FRENCH QUARTER BISTRO    Darling, delicious Sylvain is set in a thoughtfully renovated carriage house that once belonged to an infamous Storyville madam who’s said to still hang around. The crostinis, Brussels sprouts, and braised beef cheeks are musts, as are the fine craft cocktails. Dessert can only be the chocolate pot de crème. 625 Chartres St.  504/265-8123. www.sylvainnola.com. Entrees $19–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner daily. Map p 95.

★★ Tableau FRENCH QUARTER MODERN CREOLE    Enjoying a bit of bubbly, a “Grand Royal” quartet of seafood starters, and a crisped crème brulee on Tableau’s balcony overlooking Jackson Square is paradise beyond any tropical beach. In cooler climes, go with the sublime bacon-wrapped, rosemary-skewered oysters and juicy Chicken Tableau in Béarnaise sauce. Inside the fancier dining room, the experience honors 1880s New Orleans gastronomy with 21st-century flair. 616 St. Peter St.  504/934-3463. www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. Entrees $19–$46 dinner, $12–$26 brunch. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Map p 95.

Tujague’s FRENCH QUARTER CREOLE    Old-fashioned and set in its ways, what do you expect from a restaurant dating back to 1856? Beef brisket and shrimp rémoulade are signature offerings. 823 Decatur St.  504/525-8676. www.tujagues.com. Reservations recommended. 6 courses $23–$39. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sat–Sun lunch, dinner nightly. Map p 95.

★★★ Upperline UPTOWN CREOLE/ECLECTIC    The ambiance is as lovely as owner-hostess JoAnn Clevenger is personally. She makes a point of visiting every table to chat with diners, so do your best to tear yourself away from those fried green tomatoes topped with tangy shrimp rémoulade. 1413 Upperline St.  504/891-9822. www.upperline.com. Reservations recommended. Entrees $23–$36; 3 course, prix fixe tasting menu $47. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner Wed–Sun. Map p 97.

Verti Marte FRENCH QUARTER DELI    This deli counter tucked in the back of a corner grocery shop cranks out a vast array of hot and cold take-out foodstuffs 24 hours a day, and delivers to French Quarter hotels. Cheap, tasty, and very handy. 1201 Royal St.  504/525-4757. Everything under $10. Cash only. Open 24/7. Map p 95.

★★★ Willa Jean CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT SANDWICHES/BAKERY    When John Besh’s pastry chefs opened their own casual restaurant, we went, natch. And then we went back, repeatedly, because everything from the bread up is divine. 611 O’Keefe Ave.  504/509-7334. www.willajean.com. Breakfast & lunch, everything under $16; dinner entrees $18–$22. AE, DISC, MC. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Map p 96.

★★ Willie Mae’s Scotch House TREME/UPTOWN SOUL FOOD    Quite possibly (and according to umpteen listicles) the best fried chicken. Period. Allow ample wait and frying time, and get the creamy butter as your side Tremé: 2401 St. Ann St.  504/822-9503; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Uptown: 7457 St. Charles Ave.  504/417-5424; Mon–Thurs 11am–8pm; Fri–Sat 11am–9pm. www.williemaesnola.com. Everything under $15. AE, DISC, MC. Maps p 96 and 98.