Explore South Australia 2013

Kangaroo Island Gateway Visitor Information Centre, Howard Dr, Penneshaw; (08) 8553 1185; www.tourkangarooisland.com.au

In the early days of Australia’s European settlement, Kangaroo Island was a haven for some of the country’s most rugged characters – escaped convicts and deserters from English and American whaleboats. These men formed gangs, hunted more than their fair share of whales, seals, kangaroos, wallabies and possums, and went on raids to the mainland to kidnap Aboriginal women. It was an island truly without law. Two centuries on, the only ruggedness to speak of is found along the island’s southern coast, where the surf is Southern Ocean-style and the seals are now left in peace. The north shore is a rippling line of bays and coves, with grass-covered hills sweeping down into Investigator Strait. On the shores of the resplendent Nepean Bay is Kingscote, the island’s capital and the state’s first official settlement (est. 1836). Amidst the beautiful scenery and wildlife, Kingscote is also the island’s main commercial and business hub.

Kangaroo Island Penguin Centre A visit to this interpretive marine centre is a must. The size and shape of the aquariums allow visitors to get up close and personal with the vast array of sea life, which includes big-bellied seahorses and giant cuttlefish. The Penguin Tour is the ultimate highlight, where you can observe the little penguins interact with each other. The penguins’ breeding season is Mar–Dec, which is the best time to visit. There are two tours every night; times vary during the year. Pelican feedings and aquarium tours also on offer; the Wharf; (08) 8553 3112.

Hope Cottage Museum: this National Trust museum exhibits the town’s long pioneering and maritime history through memorabilia and photographs; open 1–4pm daily; Centenary Ave; (08) 8553 3017. St Alban’s Church: view the impressive stained-glass windows and pioneer memorials; Osmond St. Kangaroo Island Gallery: beautiful local artworks from ceramics and glassworks to paintings and woodcrafts; Murray St; (08) 8553 2868. Fine Art Kangaroo Island: traditional and contemporary artworks showcased in two renovated heritage buildings located in the main retail precinct; 10am–5pm; 80 and 91 Dauncey Street; (08) 8553 0448. Cemetery: SA’s oldest cemetery; Seaview Rd. Fishing: the jetty is a hot spot for keen anglers.

Racing Carnival: Feb. Ozone Street Party: Feb. KI Field Days: Feb. Art Exhibition: Penneshaw; Easter. Kangaroo Island Art Feast: Penneshaw; Oct. Kangaroo Island Speed Shears: Parndana; Nov. Kingscote Show: Nov.

Marron Cafe: island fare; Harriet Rd, Parndana; (08) 8559 4114. Sorrento’s Restaurant: contemporary fine dining; Kangaroo Island Seafront Resort, 49 North Tce, Penneshaw; (08) 8553 1028 or 1800 624 624. The Rockpool Cafe: laid-back beachfront seafood; Stokes Bay; (08) 8559 2277.

Adagio Bed & Breakfast: Lot 1 Nepean Dr, Island Beach; (08) 8553 7222. Anchorage Apartment: Willoughby Rd, Island Beach; (08) 8553 7184. Bay – Ann Cottage: 38 Bayview Tce, Brownlow; (08) 8553 2589. Correa Corner Bed & Breakfast: Cnr Second St and The Parade, Brownlow; (08) 8553 2498. The Fig Tree B&B: 107 Leander Ave, Baudin Beach; (08) 8553 1326.

Kingscote Nepean Bay Tourist Park: Cnr First and Third sts, Brownlow; (08) 8553 2394. The Open House Bed & Breakfast: 70 Smith St, Parndana; (08) 8559 6113. Seaview Lodge KI: Lot 3 Cape Willoughby Rd, Penneshaw; (08) 8553 1132. Stranraer Homestead Bed & Breakfast: Wheatons/Lades Rd, Macgillivray; (08) 8553 8235. tu EMUZ Beachfront Cottage: 3 Rookery Rd, Emu Bay; (08) 8553 5300.

Seal Bay Conservation Park This park protects the habitat of the rare Australian sea lion, which faced extinction on the SA coast during the 1800s. Guided beach tours provide close-up encounters with the snoozing creatures. There are also views down to the beach from the 400 m boardwalk that runs through dunes to an observation deck; (08) 8559 4207; 58 km SW.

Flinders Chase National Park On the south coast of this vast park are the precariously positioned granite boulders called the Remarkable Rocks, gradually being eroded by wind and sea to form spectacular shapes. Nearby is the Cape du Couedic lighthouse, and a colony of New Zealand fur seals that can be seen from the boardwalk down to Admirals Arch, a sea cave. There are many walking trails throughout the park and a detailed map is available from the visitor centre at Rocky River. Watch for the Cape Barren geese around the visitor centre; (08) 8559 7220; 93 km SW.

Kangaroo Island wine region Make sure to take home a bottle or two of local wine. Around 10 vineyards are scattered across the eastern side of the island, although only a few have cellar doors. The most prominent establishment is The Islander Estate Vineyards, run by a well-known French winemaker. The wines come from 100 per cent estate grapes and are made and bottled on-site. There are interesting blends, such as sangiovese, cabernet franc and malbec; (08) 8553 9008. Another option is the Bay of Shoals winery, offering great wine and a view; 3 km N.

Island Pure Sheep Dairy: tasting and sales of produce, and milking demonstrations; open 1–5pm daily; (08) 8553 9110. Cygnet River; 12 km SW. Emu Bay: excellent swimming at the beach with fishing from the jetty; 17 km SW. Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Oil Distillery: sales of eucalyptus-oil products; open 9am–2pm daily; Wilsons Rd, off South Coast Rd; 20 km S. Clifford’s Honey Farm: sales and free tasting of Kangaroo Island’s unique honey produced by pure Ligurian bees; (08) 8553 8295. Hundred Line Rd; 30 km S. Prospect Hill Lookout: spectacular views from the spot where Matthew Flinders surveyed Kangaroo Island; on narrow neck to Dudley Peninsula; 35 km SE. American River: a fishing village overlooking Eastern Cove and Pelican Lagoon, havens for birdlife; 40 km SE. Parndana: a small town known as The Place of Little Gums, featuring the Soldier Settlement Museum; 40 km SW. Murray Lagoon: well-known waterbird area with tea-tree walk; 40 km SW. Stokes Bay: natural rock tunnel leads to a rockpool, ideal for swimming; 50 km W. Little Sahara: large sand dunes surrounded by bush; 55 km SW. Penneshaw: a small town on Dudley Peninsula where the vehicular ferry arrives from Cape Jervis. The town features a National Trust folk museum and nightly penguin tours from the Penguin Interpretive Centre at Hog Bay Beach; 60 km E. Vivonne Bay: popular beach for surfing and fishing (beware of strong undertow – safe swimming near the jetty, boat ramp and Harriet River); 63 km SW. Antechamber Bay: picturesque beach and area, excellent for bushwalking, fishing and swimming; 72 km SE. Kelly Hill Conservation Park: sugar gum forest walks and guided tours of limestone caves; 85 km SW. Western River Wilderness Protection Area: 2.5 km track to winter waterfall; 85 km E. Scott Cove: from here you can view the highest coastal cliffs in the state, at 263 m; near Cape Borda; 100 km W. Cape Borda Lightstation: historical tours offered of 1858 lighthouse. Also here is the Cape Borda Heritage Museum. Cannon is fired at 12.30pm; 105 km W.

Kingston District Council Offices and Chamber, 29 Holland St; (08) 8767 2036; www.kingstondc.sa.gov.au

Known as the ‘Gateway to the South East’, Kingston S.E. is at the southern end of Coorong National Park on Lacepede Bay. The area was once home to the Ngarrindjeri, river people who mastered the waterways of the Coorong and the Murray River. This famous lobster town was established in 1858 and its shallow lakes and lagoons are a haven for birdlife and a delight for photographers.

National Trust Museum: pioneer museum; open 2–4.30pm daily during school holidays, or by appt; Cooke St; (08) 8767 2114. Cape Jaffa Lighthouse: built in the 1860s on the Margaret Brock Reef, it was dismantled and re-erected on its current site in the 1970s; open 2–4.30pm daily during school holidays, or by appt; Marine Pde; (08) 8767 2591. Analematic Sundial: an unusual sundial, 1 of only 8 in the world; on an island in the creek adjacent to Apex Park in East Tce. Aboriginal burial ground: Dowdy St. Power House engine: historic engine that produced the town’s energy until 1974; Lions Park, Holland St. The Big Lobster: 17 m high ‘Larry Lobster’ has sales of cooked lobster; Princes Hwy.

Butchers Gap Conservation Park: this important coastal park provides a winter refuge for bird species. Follow the walking trail from the carpark; 6 km SW. The Granites: rocky outcrops, a striking sight from the beach; 18 km N. Cape Jaffa: scenic drive south-west from Kingston S.E. leads to this small fishing village popular with anglers and divers. The Cape Jaffa Seafood and Wine Festival is held here each Jan; 18 km SW. Mt Scott Conservation Park: part of a former coastal dune system, with walks through stringybark forest; 20 km E. Jip Jip Conservation Park: features a prominent outcrop of unusually shaped granite boulders; 50 km NE.

Located in the Flinders Ranges, Leigh Creek is a modern coalmining town that services a huge open-cut mine to the north. The original township (13 kilometres north) was unfortunately placed, as it was situated over a large coal seam. The lure of the dollar led to the town’s relocation in 1982 to its current site. A tree-planting scheme has transformed the town from a barren landscape to an attractive oasis.

Copley Bush Bakery & Quandong Cafe: great pies and cakes; Railway Tce West, Copley; (08) 8675 2683.

Coal mine tours: tours to the open-cut mine each Sat from Mar to late Oct and during school holidays; contact visitor centre for details. Aroona Dam: in a steep-sided valley with coloured walls; picnic area near gorge; 4 km W. Coalmine viewing area: turn-off 14 km N (area is 3 km down road to coalmine). Beltana: almost a ghost town, it has a historic reserve and holds a Picnic Race Meeting and Gymkhana each Sept; 27 km S. Lyndhurst: starting point of the famous Strzelecki Track. It also features a unique gallery of sculptures by well-known talc-stone artist ‘Talc Alf ’; tours by appt (08) 8675 7781; 39 km N. Ochre Cliffs: here Aboriginal people used to dig for ochre. The colours range from white to reds, yellows and browns; 44 km N via Lyndhurst. Sliding Rock Mine ruins: access track is rough in places; 60 km SE. Vulkathunha–Gammon Ranges National Park: 64 km E; see Arkaroola.

Travellers note: Care must be taken on outback roads. Check road conditions with Northern Roads Condition Hotline on 1300 361 033 before departure.

Although the area around Loxton was originally settled largely by German immigrants, the town’s boom began when servicemen returned from World War II. The enticement of irrigated allotments brought a great number of them to town and the success of current-day industries, such as the production of citrus fruits, wine, dried fruit, wool and wheat, was due to their skill on the land. Loxton’s delightful setting on the Murray River has made the town the ‘Garden City of the Riverland’.

Loxton Historical Village The Riverland’s pioneering history comes to life in the 30 historic buildings, all fully furnished in the styles of late 1880s to mid-1900s. A highlight is the pine-and-pug building, Loxtons Hut, built by the town’s namesake, boundary rider William Loxton. Visit on one of the Village Alive days held thrice yearly in the village. Locals dress up in period costume and the whole village steps back 100 years. Allan Hosking Dr; (08) 8584 7194.

Terrace Gallery: local art and pottery displays and sales; part of visitor centre; Bookpurnong Tce. The Pines Historical Home: resplendent gardens and historic home filled with antique furniture and fine china. Tours of home every Sun followed by afternoon tea; Henry St; (08) 8584 4646. Pepper tree: grown from a seed planted by Loxton over 110 years ago; near the historical village. Nature trail: along riverfront; canoes for hire. Heritage walk: brochure from visitor centre.

Mardi Gras: Feb. Nippy’s Loxton Gift: SA’s largest and richest footrace; Feb. Riverland Harvest Festival & Great Grape Stomp: Apr. Loxton Annual Spring Show: Oct. Loxton Lights Up: Christmas lights throughout town; self-guide tour map available; Nov–Dec.

Loxton Riverfront Caravan Park: Sophie Edington Dr; (08) 8584 7862. Loxton Smiffy’s B&B: 5 Sadlier St; (08) 8584 7442. Mill Cottage: 2 Mill Rd; 0439 866 990.

McGuigan Simeon Wines Loxton Cellars: wine-tasting and sales; Bookpurnong Rd, Loxton North; (08) 8584 7236; 4 km N. Torambre Nissen Hut Wines: boutique winery with award-winning shirazes and merlots; Balfour–Ogilvy Rd, Loxton North; (08) 8584 1530; 6 km NE. Lock 4: picnic/barbecue area; 14 km N on Murray River. MV Loch Luna Eco Cruise: relaxing 3 hr cruise around the Nockburra and Chambers creeks; departs daily from Kingston at 9am and 1.30pm; 0449 122 271. Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre: magnificently restored wetlands and mallee woodlands, with 250 ha of picturesque vineyards and a wine centre; Holmes Rd, Kingston-on-Murray; (08) 8583 0299; 35km NW.

Lyndoch is one of the oldest towns in South Australia. The first European explorers, led by Colonel Light in 1837, described the area around Lyndoch as ‘a beautiful valley’. The undulating landscape and picturesque setting attracted Lutheran immigrants and English gentry, who began growing grapes here. By 1850 Johann Gramp had produced his first wine from the grapes at Jacob’s Creek.

Spinifex Arts & Crafts: retail shop selling exclusive quality handcrafted goods including pottery, quilts, folk art and paintings of local scenes. All goods are locally made in the Barossa region; Barossa Valley Way. Helicopter and balloon flights: scenic flights over the Barossa region; contact visitor centre for details. Historic Lyndoch Walk: self-guide walk featuring buildings from the mid-1800s, including many built from locally quarried hard ironstone; brochure from visitor centre.

Barossa under the Stars: food, wine and music; Tanunda; Feb. Barossa Vintage Festival: celebration of food and wine in various locations; odd-numbered years, Apr. Barossa Gourmet Weekend: Aug.

Bandicoot Nest: 15 Jollytown Rd; (08) 8524 4125. Barossa Caravan Park: 93 Barossa Valley Hwy; (08) 8524 4262. Barossa Country Cottages: 55 Gilbert St; (08) 8524 4426. Currawong Roost: 19 Jollytown Rd; (08) 8524 4125. Kooringal Homestead: Cnr Yettie and Millington rds, Cockatoo Valley; (08) 8524 6196. Queen Victoria Jubilee Park: Springton Rd, Williamstown; (08) 8524 6363.

Para Wirra Recreation Park Para Wirra comes from the Aboriginal words for ‘river with scrub’. The park has a large recreational area with extensive facilities including tennis courts, picnic and barbecue areas, and walking trails ranging from short 800 m walks to more extensive 7.5 km trails. The park consists of mostly eucalypts and is home to a large variety of native birds – including inquisitive emus that meander around the picnic areas. The historic Barossa Goldfield Trails (1.2 km or 5 km loop walks) cover the history of the old goldmines. 12 km SW.

Barossa Valley wine region The Barossa is Australia’s eminent wine region, a landscape of historic villages panning out to vine-swept hills and grand buildings on old wine estates. Shiraz is the premier drop, with semillon the star of the whites. Some of the old shiraz vines date back to the 1840s, and several winemaking families, many with German backgrounds, are into their sixth generation. Senior names include Yalumba (1849), which is officially part of the Eden Valley, PENFOLDS(1844) and Seppelt (1851). You can sample the iconic PENFOLDS Grange at PENFOLDS Barossa Valley and even visit the Winemakers’ Laboratory to blend your own wine to take home in a personlised bottle. Seppelt is a must-visit winery with its elegant bluestone buildings and gardens. Its range of fortified wines includes Spanish styles and classic tawnys – the jewel is Para Liqueur, a tawny released when it is 100 years old. Peter Lehmann and Wolf Blass are other well-known wineries in the area. Smaller gems include Charles Melton, known for its Nine Popes blend of shiraz, grenache and mourvedre and for the Rose of Virginia; the nearby Rockford, with fantastic wines seldom seen in other Australian states; Torbreck Vintners, offering excellent shiraz and shiraz viognier; and Langmeil. For some history on the Barossa and winemaking, the Jacob’s Creek Visitor Centre has a gallery with displays next to its wine-tasting area, where you can sample some of this well-known label’s varieties.

Sandy Creek Conservation Park: on undulating sand dunes, with walking trails and birdlife. See western grey kangaroos and echidnas at dusk; 5.5 km W. Lyndoch Lavender Farm and Cafe: wander through rows of over 60 lavender varieties. The nursery and farm shop offer lavender-product sales; open daily Sept–Feb, Mon–Fri Mar–Apr; Cnr Hoffnungsthal and Tweedies Gully rds; 6 km SE. Barossa Reservoir and Whispering Wall: acoustic phenomenon allowing whispered messages at one end to be audible at the other end, 140 m away; 8 km SW.

McLaren Vale and Fleurieu Visitor Centre, Main Rd; (08) 8323 9944 or 1800 628 410; www.mclarenvale.info

McLaren Vale is recognised as a region of vineyards, orchards and gourmet-produce farms. The first grape vines were planted here in 1838, just two years after Adelaide was settled, and McLaren Vale has remained a prominent wine region ever since. Shiraz is the most transcendent drop and is known for its overtones of dark chocolate. Cabernet sauvignon, grenache, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc are also very respectable. Coriole makes wonderful shiraz as well as olive oil, while d’Arenberg has many interesting varieties and a good restaurant, d’Arry’s Verandah. Other wineries to visit include Geoff Merrill Wines and two of the oldest and biggest names in the district: Hardys Tintara and Rosemont Estate. The best time to visit the region is late winter, when almond blossoms provide a gentle pink blush. The town is also known for its coastal vistas to the west, which provide subject matter for the artists who exhibit in the galleries.

McLaren Vale visitor centre: picturesque landscaped grounds with a vineyard and a centre that features changing art exhibitions, sales of local craft and produce, and a cafe; Main Rd; (08) 8323 9944. The Old Bank Artel: community cooperative of local crafts including pottery, jewellery and metalwork; Main Rd. Almond and Olive Train: sales of local produce, including almonds, in a restored railway carriage; Main Rd. McLaren Valley Bakery: produces unique ‘wine pies’; Central Shopping Centre, Main Rd. McLaren Vale Olive Grove: grows over 26 varieties of olives and sells olive products, arts and crafts, and local gourmet produce; Warners Rd. Medlow Confectionery and FruChocs Showcase: tastings and sales of gourmet chocolate and other confectionery. Interactive confectionery machine for kids; Main Rd. McLaren Vale Heritage Trail: self-guide trail of historic sites, including wineries, with audio CD available; starts at visitor centre.

Sea and Vines Festival: music, food and wine; June. Fiesta!: month-long food and wine festival; Oct.

d’Arry’s Verandah Restaurant: glorious cellar-door views, regional cuisine; d’Arenberg Wines, Osborn Rd; (08) 8329 4848. Red Poles: arty cafe; McMurtrie Rd; (08) 8323 8994. Vale Inn Taphouse & Kitchen: gastropub dining, craft beers on tap; Cnr McMurtrie and Main rds; (08) 8323 8769. The Kitchen Door: stylish rustic fare; Penny’s Hill Winery, Main Rd; (08) 8557 0800.

McLaren Vale Lakeside Caravan Park: 48 Field St; (08) 8323 9255. Rosebank B&B: 11 Jarred St; (08) 8323 8890. Villa Grenache Bed and Breakfast: 323 Kangarilla Rd; (08) 8383 0204. Wine and Roses Bed and Breakfast: 39 Caffrey St; 0410 513 357. Christies Beach Tourist Park: 39 Sydney Cres, Christies Beach; (08) 8326 0311. Moana Beach Tourist Park: 44 Nashwauk Cres, Moana; (08) 8327 0677. Mt Bold Estate: Cnr Mt Bold and White rds, Kangarilla; (08) 8383 7185. Peppercorns B&B: 3 Baron St, Old Noarlunga; (08) 8386 3504. Woodcroft Park Caravan Park: Lot 1 Bains Rd, Woodcroft; (08) 8325 1233.

Onkaparinga River National Park The Onkaparinga River, SA’s second longest river, travels through valleys and gorges to Gulf St Vincent. The walks in Onkaparinga Gorge are impressive, but very steep. More regulated walking trails are on the northern side of the gorge. The estuary section of the park is an altogether different environment and is best explored on the 5 km interpretive trail. Look out for the 27 species of native orchids. Access is via Main South Rd, Old Noarlunga; (08) 8278 5477; 7 km NW.

Old Noarlunga: self-guide tour of historic colonial buildings (brochure available). Walks into Onkaparinga National Park start from here; 7 km NW. Port Noarlunga: popular holiday destination with historic streetscapes. A marked underwater trail along the reef is provided for divers and snorkellers; 11 km NW. Coastal beaches: safe family beaches to the north-west include O’Sullivan, Christies and Moana.

Maitland represents a much smaller version of the city of Adelaide, with the town layout in the same pattern of radiating squares. It is in the heart of Yorke Peninsula and is central to a rich agricultural region. In recent years tourism has grown dramatically on the peninsula, but barley and wheat industries remain strong.

Maitland Museum: located in the former school, this National Trust museum documents local indigenous and settlement history; open 2–4pm Sun, public/school holidays, other times by appt; Cnr Gardiner and Kilkerran tces; (08) 8832 2220. White Flint Olive Grove: range of olive oil products produced from own trees, great food and tea on offer; appt only; South Tce; (08) 8832 2874. St John’s Anglican Church: stainedglass windows depict biblical stories in an Australian setting; Cnr Alice and Caroline sts. Aboriginal cultural tours: a range of tours through Adjahdura Land (Yorke Peninsula), with an Aboriginal guide; bookings and inquiries 0429 367 121. Heritage town walk: interpretive walk; brochure from council in Elizabeth St.

Gregory’s Wines: Yorke Peninsula’s only commercial vineyard. Cellar-door tastings and sales 10am–5pm weekends or by appt; Lizard Rd; (08) 8834 1258; 13 km S. Balgowan: this town has safe, sandy beaches and is popular with anglers; 15 km W.

Mannum is one of the oldest towns on the Murray River, at the romantic heart of the old paddlesteamer days. In 1853 the ‘Father of Mannum’, William Randell, built the first Murray River paddlesteamer, Mary Ann (named after his mother), in order to transport his flour to the Victorian goldfields. The paddlesteamer set out from Mannum in 1853 and started a boom in the river transport industry. Another first for Mannum was Australia’s first steam car, built in 1894 by David Shearer.

Mannum Dock Museum This excellent museum documents the changing history of the Mannum region from ancient days through Indigenous habitation, European settlement and river history to the present day. Outside is the renowned Randell’s Dry Dock, where the grand lady of the Murray, PS Marion, is moored. Passenger cruises on the restored paddlesteamer still operate. Randell St; (08) 8569 2733.

Mary Ann Reserve: popular recreation reserve on the riverbank with a replica of PS Mary Ann ’s boiling engine. PS River Murray Princess is moored here between cruises. Ferry service: twin ferries operate to the eastern side of the river. River cruises and houseboat hire: afternoon, day and overnight cruises are available from the town wharf, including the Murray Expedition Captain’s Dinner. Alternatively, hire a houseboat to discover the Murray River your own way. Contact visitor centre for details. Town lookout: off Purnong Rd to the east. Scenic and historical walks: brochures from visitor centre.

Mannum Show: Mar. Houseboat Hirers’ Open Days: May. Christmas Pageant: Dec.

Mannum Caravan Park: Purnong Rd; (08) 8569 1402. Omaroo Bed & Breakfast: 10 William St; (08) 8559 2282. Riverview Rise Retreats: 10182 Hunter Rd, Cowirra; 0400 310 380.

Mannum Falls: picnics and scenic walks, best visited in winter (after rains) when the waterfall is flowing; 6 km SE. Kia Marina: the largest river marina in SA; boats and houseboats for hire; 8 km NE. Lowan Conservation Park: mallee vegetation park with varied wildlife, including fat-tailed dunnarts, mallee fowl and western grey kangaroos; turn-off 28 km E at Bowhill. Purnong: scenic drive north-east, runs parallel to excellent Halidon Bird Sanctuary; 33 km E.

Marree is the perfect image of a tiny outback town. It is frequented by four-wheel-drive enthusiasts taking on the legendary Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks. The settlement was established in 1872 as a camp for the Overland Telegraph Line as it was being constructed, and also became a railhead for the Great Northern Railway (which was later known as the Ghan). The town soon serviced all travellers and workers heading north, including the famous Afghan traders who drove their camel trains into the desert and played a significant role in opening up the outback.

Aboriginal Heritage Museum: features artefacts and cultural history; in Arabunna Aboriginal Community Centre. Marree Heritage Park: includes Tom Kruse’s truck that once carried out the famous outback mail run on the Birdsville Track in the 1950s. Camel sculpture: made out of railway sleepers. Scenic flights: including over Lake Eyre and the Marree Man, a 4 km long carving in a plateau of an Aboriginal hunter. The carving, visible only from the air, appeared mysteriously in 1998, and is slowly fading; contact visitor centre for details.

Lake Eyre National Park Of international significance, Lake Eyre is dry for most of the time – it has filled to capacity on only 3 occasions in the last 150 years. When water does fill parts of the lake (usually due to heavy rains in Queensland funnelled south via creeks and rivers), birds flock to it. Avoid visiting in the hotter months (Nov–Mar). Lake Eyre North is accessed via the Oodnadatta Track, 195 km W of Maree. Lake Eyre South is accessed via the 94 km track north of Marree (along this track is Muloorina Station, which offers camping alongside the Frome River). Both access routes are 4WD only. Lake Eyre South also meets the Oodnadatta Track about 90 km W of Marree, where there are good views. A Desert Parks Pass is required for the park and is available from Marree Post Office or by contacting the Desert Parks Hotline on 1800 816 078. Scenic flights are perhaps the most rewarding option, from both Marree and William Creek.

Oodnadatta Track: a 600 km 4WD track from Marree to Marla. Highlights along the track include the Dog Fence (around 40 km W) and the railway-siding ruins at Curdimurka Siding and Bore (90 km W) from the original Great Northern Railway line to Alice Springs. A short distance beyond Curdimurka is Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs Conservation Park, with a series of springs – fed by water from the Great Artesian Basin – supporting a small ecosystem of plants and animals. Between Marree and Marla, fuel is available only at William Creek (202 km NW) and Oodnadatta (405 km NW). Birdsville Track: famous 4WD track from Marree to Birdsville (in Queensland) of just over 500 km, once a major cattle run. Highlights on the track include the failed date palm plantation at Lake Harry Homestead (30 km N) and the meeting of the Tirari and Strzelecki deserts at Natterannie Sandhills (140 km N, after Cooper Creek crossing). Cooper Creek may have to be bypassed if flooded (with a 48 km detour to a ferry). Between Marree and Birdsville, fuel is available only at Mungerannie Roadhouse (204 km N).

Travellers note: Care must be taken when attempting the Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks. These tracks are unsealed, with sandy patches. Heavy rain in the area can cut access for several days. Motorists are advised to ring the Northern Roads Condition Hotline on 1300 361 033 before departure.

Melrose, a quiet settlement at the foot of Mount Remarkable, is the oldest town in the Flinders Ranges. Indigenous groups who occupied the southern Flinders Ranges around Mount Remarkable and Melrose resisted European settlement in the 1840s, but after just a few decades the population was reduced to a handful. Pastoral properties were established on the mountainous slopes of the ranges, but Melrose truly took off when copper deposits were found nearby in 1846. Bushwalking through Mount Remarkable National Park is a highlight of any visit to this area. The arid north country meets the wet conditions of southern regions to provide a diverse landscape to explore.

National Trust Museum: documents local history, with particular focus on early law enforcement. Original stone buildings include the courthouse and lock-up; open 2–5pm; Stuart St. Bluey Blundstone Blacksmith Shop: a restored shop with a cafe and B&B; closed Tues; Stuart St. Serendipity Gallery: Australiana arts and crafts; Stuart St. War Memorial and Lookout Hill: views over surrounding region. 4WD tours: to local landmarks; contact visitor centre for operators. Heritage walk: self-guide walk includes ruins of Jacka’s Brewery and Melrose Mine; brochure from visitor centre.

The North Star Hotel: rejuvenated landmark pub; Nott St; (08) 8666 2110. T he Old Bakery Stone Hut: classic English-style pies; 1 Main North Rd, Stone Hut; (08) 8663 2165.

Melrose Caravan Park: Joes Rd; (08) 8666 2060. Taralee Orchards: Forest Rd, Wirrabara; (08) 8668 4343.

Mt Remarkable National Park Part of the southern Flinders Ranges and popular with bushwalkers. Marked trails through the park’s gorges and ranges vary in scope from short scenic walks to long 3-day hikes. Highlights include pretty Alligator Gorge and the tough but worthwhile 5 hr return walk from Melrose to the summit of Mt Remarkable (960 m), with breathtaking views from the top. Access to the park by vehicle is via Mambray Creek or Wilmington. Foot access is from carparks and Melrose. (08) 8634 7068; 2 km W.

Cathedral Rock: an impressive rock formation on Mt Remarkable Creek; just west of Melrose. Murray Town: a farming town with nearby scenic lookouts at Box Hill, Magnus Hill and Baroota Nob. Remarkable View Wines offers tasting and sales on weekends. Starting point for a scenic drive west through Port Germein Gorge; 14 km S. Booleroo Centre: this service town to a rich farming community features the Booleroo Steam Traction Preservation Society’s Museum. Annual Rally Day is held in Mar/Apr; open by appt; (08) 8667 2193; 15 km SE. Wirrabara: you could easily lose half a day in this town’s bakery-cum-antiques shop, wandering through the rooms of relics and antiques just to work up an appetite for another homemade pastry; 25 km S.

Today Meningie is an attractive lakeside town, but it was once a wilderness area, home to the Ngarrindjeri people, who had a self-sufficient lifestyle on the water. They made canoes to fish on the waterways and shelters to protect themselves from the weather. However, European settlement – after Captain Charles Sturt’s journey down the Murray from 1829 to 1830 – soon wiped out much of the population, largely through violence and the introduction of smallpox. Stretching south from the mouth of the Murray and located just south of Meningie, the Coorong, with its lakes, birdlife, fishing and deserted ocean beaches, attracts visitors year-round.

The Cheese Factory Museum Restaurant: a restaurant and separate community museum with special interest in the changing population of Meningie and the Coorong; closed Mon; Fiebig Rd. Coorong Cottage Industries: local craft and produce; The Chambers, Princes Hwy.

Coonalpyn Soldiers Memorial Caravan Park: Richards Tce, Coonalpyn; 0427 399 089. Gemini Downs Holiday Centre: Princes Hwy, Salt Creek; (08) 8575 7013.

Coorong National Park Listed as a ‘wetland of international importance’, this park’s waterways, islands and vast saltpans demonstrate a diverse ecological environment invaluable for the refuge and habitat of migratory and drought-stricken birds. Throughout the park are reminders of the long history of habitation by the Ngarrindjeri people. There are ancient midden heaps and burial grounds, and the Ngarrindjeri people continue to have strong links with the Coorong. There are a number of ways to see the park: take a boat, canoe or cruise on the waterways; walk one of the varied tracks offered; drive your 4WD onto the Southern Ocean beach; or simply sit and soak up the park’s atmosphere. Walking is the best way to access great coastal views, birdwatching spots and historic ruins. The most comprehensive walk in the park is the Nukan Kungun Hike. This 27 km hike starts at Salt Creek and includes smaller, side trails, including the informative walk to Chinaman’s Well, the ruins of a temporary settlement that sprang up en route to the goldfields. The hike ends at the 42 Mile Crossing Sand Dune Walk, which leads to the wild Southern Ocean; (08) 8575 1200; 10 km S.

Scenic drive: follows Lake Albert to the west, adjacent to Lake Alexandrina, which is the largest permanent freshwater lake in the country (50 000 ha). Ferry crossing at Narrung. Camp Coorong: cultural centre offering bush-tucker tours and other traditional Aboriginal experiences; (08) 8575 1557; 10 km S. Coorong Wilderness Lodge: operated by the Ngarrindjeri people, this accommodation lodge offers Aboriginal heritage tours of the Coorong as well as traditional bush tucker and other cultural experiences; Hacks Point; (08) 8575 6001; 25 km S. Poltalloch Station: a historic pastoral property established in the 1830s as a sheep station. Guided tours take in a heritage-listed farm village and museum, historic farm machinery, and past and present farm life. Cottage accommodation available; Poltalloch Rd near Narrung; (08) 8574 0043; 30 km NW.

Millicent, a prosperous, friendly and vibrant community located in the heart of the Limestone Coast region, is named after Millicent Glen, wife of one of the early pioneers and daughter of the first Anglican Bishop of Adelaide. In 1876 the barque Geltwood was wrecked off Canunda Beach, with debris, bodies and cargo littering the sands. Relics from the Geltwood can be found in the award-winning National Trust Living History Museum. The town’s distinctive aroma can be attributed to the surrounding pine forests, which support a pulp mill, a paper mill and sawmill.

Visitor centre and National Trust Living History Museum: centre provides extensive information on the region and surrounding areas. Souvenirs, arts and crafts, and local produce available. History museum includes a shipwreck room, farm machinery shed, Aboriginal and natural history rooms, a T-Class locomotive and the largest collection of restored horsedrawn vehicles in SA; Mt Gambier Rd; (08) 8733 0904. Lake McIntyre: boardwalks and bird hides to view the lake’s prolific birdlife, native fish and yabbies; northern edge of town.

Nangula Market Days: 2nd Sun each month (excluding Jan). Tall Timbers Wood Work Exhibition: pine and red-gum craft; Mar–May. Geltwood Craft Festival: Mar/Apr. Pines Enduro Off-Road Championships: Sept. Millicent Show: Sept.

Millicent Hillview Caravan Park: Dalton St; (08) 8733 2806. Millicent Lakeside Caravan Park: 12 Park Tce; (08) 8733 1188.

Canunda National Park The massive sand-dune system of the southern part of the park rises to cliffs and scrublands in the north. These 2 sections provide quite different experiences. In the north (accessed via Southend and Millicent) the walking trails pass along cliff-tops and through the scrubland. In the south (accessed via Carpenter Rocks and Millicent) the beaches and wetlands provide picturesque coastal walks. You can surf, 4WD, birdwatch, bushwalk and fish (excellent from the beaches and rocks). (08) 8735 1177; 10 km W.

Woakwine Range Wind Farms: dozens of giant turbines dominate the Woakwine Range skyline, comprising the largest wind farm development in the Southern Hemisphere. Take a drive along the Wind Farm Tourist Drive. Maps available from visitor centre; 2 km S. Mt Muirhead Lookout: a large viewing platform provides views of Millicent, pine plantations and Mt Burr Range. It is also the start of the Volcanoes Discovery Trail (brochure from visitor centre); 6 km NE. Mount Burr: a historic timber town, the first to plant pines for commercial use on the Limestone Coast; 10 km NE. Tantanoola: home of the famous ‘Tantanoola Tiger’, a Syrian wolf shot in the 1890s, now stuffed and displayed in the Tantanoola Tiger Hotel; 20 km SE. Tantanoola Caves Conservation Park: daily tours of an imposing dolomite cavern in an ancient limestone cliff. Also walks and picnic areas; 21 km SE. Glencoe Woolshed: National Trust limestone woolshed once occupied by 38 shearers; 29 km SE.

Harvest Corner Visitor Information Centre, 29 Main St; (08) 8853 2600 or 1800 202 445; www.yorkepeninsula.com.au

This small rural centre on Yorke Peninsula was originally called Gum Flat, because of the giant eucalypts in the area, but was later changed to Minlaton – from the Aboriginal word ‘minlacowrie’, thought to mean ‘sweet water’. Aviator Captain Harry Butler, pilot of the Red Devil, a 1916 Bristol monoplane, was born here.

Butler Memorial: in a hangar-like building stands the Red Devil, a fighter plane – thought to be the only one of its type left in the world – that fought in France and, less romantically, flew mail between Adelaide and Minlaton; Main St. Minlaton Museum: National Trust museum in the historic general store features a local history display and Harry Butler memorabilia; open 9.30am–1pm Tues–Fri, 9.30am–12pm Sat; Main St. Harvest Corner Yorke Peninsula Visitor Information Centre: accredited visitor centre with tourist information, craft and local produce sales, a gallery featuring local artists and tearooms; Main St. The Creamery: crafts, ceramics and art exhibitions in a historic building; Maitland Rd. Gum Flat Gallery: art workshop and gallery; open 10am–2pm Wed; Main St. Minlaton Fauna Park: popular spot for picnics, with kangaroos, emus and up to 43 species of birds; Maitland Rd. Minlaton Walking Trail: a trail to the only naturally occurring stand of river red gums in the Yorke Peninsula. See a number of historic landmarks including an old horse dip and ancient Aboriginal wells, catch a local glimpse of the birdlife at the bird hide, and learn about the area through interpretive signs; contact visitor centre for details. through interpretive signs; contact visitor centre for details.

Red Devil Restaurant: smart pub dining; Minlaton Hotel, 26 Main St; (08) 8853 2014.

Minlaton Caravan Park: 1 Bluff Rd; (08) 8853 2435. Port Rickaby Caravan Park: Waimana Crt, Port Rickaby; (08) 8853 1177.

Ramsay Park: native flora and fauna park; between Minlaton and Port Vincent to the east. Port Rickaby: quiet swimming and fishing spot; 16 km NW.

Cnr Main North and Spring Gully rds; (08) 8842 2131 or 1800 242 131; www.clarevalley.com.au

Although it is in the Clare Valley region, Mintaro’s prosperity is not linked with the valley’s booming wine industry. Instead, its buildings date back to the 1840s and ‘50s, when bullock drays carried copper from the Monster Mine at Burra to Port Wakefield in the south. Many of the buildings use local slate. In 1984 Mintaro became the first town in South Australia to be classified a State Heritage Area.

Timandra Garden: one of the town’s fine garden displays; enter via Timandra Nursery, Kingston St. Mintaro Garden Maze: kids will love getting lost in the maze, comprising over 800 conifers; open 10am–4pm Thurs–Mon; Jacka St. Reillys Wines: wine-tastings, cellar-door sales and a restaurant; Burra Rd. Mintaro Cellars: wine-tastings and sales; Leasingham Rd. Mintaro Slate Quarries: fine-quality slate, produced since the quarry opened in 1854, is used world-wide for billiard tables; open 7.30am–3pm Mon–Fri; viewing platform in Kadlunga Rd. Heritage walk: self-guide trail includes 18 heritage-listed colonial buildings and 2 historic cemeteries; brochure available.

Reilly’s Cellar Door & Restaurant: satisfying country meals; Cnr Leasingham Rd and Hill St; (08) 8843 9013. The Station Cafe: weekend snacks and platters; Mount Horrocks Wines, Curling St, Auburn; (08) 8849 2202.

Devonshire House: Burra St; (08) 8843 9078. Ethel’s Cottage: Main North Rd, Leasingham; (08) 8342 0406. Granma’s B&B: Lot 201 Main North Rd, Watervale; 0408 828 459. Quince Cottage: Cnr South and Commercial rds, Watervale; (08) 8843 0048.

Martindale Hall This 1879 mansion was built for Edmund Bowman who, the story goes, commissioned it for his bride-to-be from English high society. The lady declined his offer of marriage, and Bowman lived there on his own until 1891. Today visitors can explore the National Trust, Georgian-style home with its Italian Renaissance interior. A room in the mansion was used in the 1975 film Picnic at Hanging Rock as a girls’ dormitory. Accommodation and dining are available. Open 11am–4pm Mon–Fri, 12–4pm weekends; Manoora Rd; (08) 8843 9088; 3 km SE.

Polish Hill River Valley: a subregion of the Clare Valley wine region, with cellar doors offering tastings and sales; between Mintaro and Sevenhill. Waterloo: features the historic Wellington Hotel, once a Cobb & Co. staging post; 23 km SE.

The towns of Moonta, Kadina and Wallaroo form the ‘Copper Coast’ or ‘Little Cornwall’, so called because of abundant copper finds and the significant Cornish population. Like so many other copper discoveries in South Australia, Moonta’s was made by a local shepherd – in this case, Paddy Ryan in 1861. It was to prove a fortunate find: Moonta Mining Company paid over £1 million in dividends. Thousands of miners, including experienced labourers from Cornwall, flocked to the area. The mines were abandoned in the 1920s because of the slump in copper prices and rising labour costs. Moonta has survived as an agricultural service town with an increasing tourist trade.

All Saints Church of England: features a locally constructed copper bell; Cnr Blanche and Milne tces. Queen Square: park for picnics, with the imposing town hall opposite; George St. Heritage walks and drives: self-guide trails to see heritage stone buildings and historic mine sites; brochure from visitor centre.

Kernewek Lowender: prize-winning Cornish festival held with Kadina and Wallaroo; odd-numbered years, May. Moonta Garden Fair: Oct. Moonta Antiques and Collectible Fair: Nov.

Amelia’s Bed and Breakfast: 31 Bay Rd, Moonta Bay; 0447 528 040. Moonta Bay Caravan Park: Tossell St, Moonta Bay; (08) 8825 2406. Port Hughes Tourist Village: South Tce, Port Hughes; (08) 8825 2106.

Moonta Mines State Heritage Area Take a historical walk or drive from Moonta to this significant heritage area. Interpretive walking trails guide the visitor to the major sites, including the Hughes Pump House, shafts, tailing heaps and ruins of mine offices. A 50 min historical railway tour runs from the museum (tours depart Wed 2pm, Sat and Sun 1–3pm on the hour, public/school holidays daily 11am–3pm on the hour). Also on the site is a historic 1880 pipe organ in the Moonta Mines Heritage Uniting Church; Cornish lifestyle history and memorabilia at the Moonta Mines Museum; and the National Trust furnished Miners Cottage and Heritage Garden. Open 1–4pm daily. Enjoy old-style sweets at the Moonta Mines Sweet Shop. Via Verran Tce; 2 km SE.

Wheal Hughes Copper Mine: underground tour of one of the modern mines; tours Wed, Sat and Sun; Wallaroo Rd; (08) 8825 1891; 3 km N. Moonta Bay: a popular seaside town for fishing and swimming. See native animals at the Moonta Wildlife Park; 5 km W.

Shell Morgan Roadhouse, 14–18 Fourth St; (08) 8540 2354; www.riverland.info

This Murray River town was once a thriving port and a stop on the rail trade route to Adelaide. Settlers saw the potential of the region, and Morgan boomed as soon as it was declared a town in 1878. Now it is a quiet holiday destination, but evidence of its boom days can still be seen in the streetscapes and the historic wharf and rail precinct.

Port of Morgan Museum This comprehensive museum is dedicated to the rail- and river-trade history of Morgan. In the old railway buildings are museum exhibits focusing on the paddlesteamers and trains that were the lifeblood of the town. The Landseer Building has vintage vehicles and a 12 m mural depicting the old Murray River lifestyle. Other highlights are the restored wharf and permanently moored PS Mayflower. Open 2–4pm Wed, Sat and Sun; Riverfront; (08) 8540 2085.

Houseboats: for hire; contact visitor centre for details. Heritage walk: self-guide trail covers 41 historic sites, including the impressive wharves (1877) standing 12 m high, the customs house and courthouse, the sunken barge and steamer, and the rail precinct; brochure from visitor centre.

Morgan Conservation Park: a diverse landscape of river flats, sand dunes and mallee scrub with abundant birdlife; across the Murray River from Morgan. White Dam Conservation Park: well known for red and western grey kangaroo populations; 9 km NW. Cadell: scenic 12 km drive east from Morgan via a ferry crossing (operates 24 hrs) to Cadell, a major citrus-growing region.

The Lady Nelson Visitor and Discovery Centre, 35 Jubilee Hwy East; (08) 8724 9750 or 1800 087 187; www.mountgambiertourism.com.au

Mount Gambier is set on an extinct volcano – the area boasts a fascinating network of volcanic craters above sea level and limestone caves beneath. Lieutenant James Grant named the volcano in 1800 – he sighted it from HMS Lady Nelson, off the coast. The original settlement was known as Gambier Town. Today Mount Gambier is at the centre of the largest softwood pine plantation in the Commonwealth and is surrounded by farming, viticulture and dairy country.

Blue Lake The lakes formed in the craters of the extinct volcano have become an important recreational area for locals and visitors alike. The most spectacular is Blue Lake, so-called because the water’s dull, blue-grey winter colour changes to a vibrant blue each Nov and stays that way until Mar the following year. Discover the area on the 3.6 km walking track around the shores. Aquifer Tours offers a trip in a lift down an old well shaft. The area also includes a wildlife park and an adventure playground; southern outskirts of town; (08) 8723 1199.

Old Courthouse: a National Trust dolomite building with a local history museum; open by appt; Bay Rd; (08) 8725 5284. The Lady Nelson Visitor and Discovery Centre: full-scale replica of HMS Lady Nelson, interactive displays on the region’s history and geography, and free local information packs; 35 Jubilee Hwy East. Riddoch Art Gallery: changing exhibitions of local and touring art and sculpture; open Tues–Sun; Commercial St East. Cave Garden: a cave used as a water supply for early settlers, now a rose garden with a suspended viewing platform; Bay Rd. Umpherston Sinkhole: a sunken garden on the floor of a collapsed cave; floodlit at night; Jubilee Hwy East. Engelbrecht Cave: guided tour of the limestone cave system under the city; contact visitor centre for details. Centenary Tower: views of the city, the lakes area and surrounding countryside; top of Mt Gambier, 190 m above sea level. Heritage walk: self-guide tour of historic buildings, many constructed of white Mt Gambier stone; brochure from visitor centre.

Mount Gambier Market: behind Harvey Norman; Sat. World Series Sprintcars: Jan. Generations in Jazz: May. Mount Gambier Gold Cup Carnival: May. Mount Gambier Show: Oct. Christmas Parade: Nov.

Sage & Muntries Restaurant: imaginative, regional dishes; 78 Commercial St West; (08) 8724 8400. Sorrento’s Cafe: relaxed all-day eatery; 6 Bay Rd; (08) 8723 0900. The Barn Steakhouse: excellent steaks and grills; Punt Rd; (08) 8726 8250.

Blue Lake Holiday Park: Bay Rd; (08) 8725 9856. Clarendon Chalets: Clarke Rd; (08) 8726 8306. Colhurst House Bed & Breakfast: 3 Colhurst Pl; (08) 8723 1309. Mackenzie’s on Jardine: 9 Jardine St; 0409 420 864. Mount Gambier Central Caravan Park: 6 Krummel St; (08) 8725 4427. Pine Country Caravan Park: Cnr Bay and Kilsby rds; (08) 8725 1899.

Haig’s Vineyards: wine-tastings and sales; 4 km SE. Mt Schank: excellent views of the surrounding district from the summit of an extinct volcano. Note that the 2 summit walks are very steep; 17 km S. Nelson and Lower Glenelg National Park: over the Victorian border; see Portland (Vic.).

Murray Bridge, just as its name suggests, is all about bridges. The town was established in 1879 when a road bridge was built over the Murray River. The plan to make the river a major trade route from east to west and back had become a reality. In 1886 the construction of a railway line between Adelaide and Melbourne cemented the town’s importance. Now watersports, river cruises and a relaxed river atmosphere make Murray Bridge South Australia’s largest river town, a perfect holiday spot.

Captain’s Cottage Museum: local history museum; open 10am–4pm weekends; Thomas St. Dundee’s Wildlife Park: crocodiles, koalas and a bird sanctuary; Jervois Rd. Murray Bridge Regional Gallery: regular art exhibitions from local artists; closed Sat; Sixth St. Heritage and Cultural Community Mural: depicts significant aspects of Murray Bridge; Third St. Sturt Reserve: offers fishing, swimming, picnic and playground facilities, as well as the mythical Aboriginal creature, the Bunyip (coin-operated); Murray Cod Dr. Long Island Marina: houseboat hire and recreational facilities; Roper Rd. Thiele Reserve: popular for waterskiing; east of the river. Avoca Dell: a popular picnic spot with boating, waterskiing, minigolf and caravan facilities. Swanport Wetlands: recreational reserve with raised walkways and bird hides; adjacent to Swanport Bridge. Charter and regular cruises: on the Murray River; contact visitor centre. Town and riverside walks: brochure from visitor centre.

AutoFest: Australia Day weekend Jan. International Pedal Prix: novelty bikes and endurance event; Sept. Murray Bridge Show: Sept. Waterski Race: over 110 km; Nov. Christmas Pageant and Fireworks: Nov.

The Bridge Retreat: 18 Monash Tce; (08) 8531 2229. Long Island Caravan Park: 100 Roper Rd; (08) 8532 6900. Princes Highway Caravan Park: 315 Adelaide Rd (Princes Hwy); (08) 8532 2860. Rainforest Retreat Murray Bridge: 19A Torrens Rd; (08) 8532 6447. Avoca Dell Caravan Park: Avoca Dell Dr (via Mitchell Ave), Avoca Dell; (08) 8532 2095. Wellington Caravan Park: Main Rd, Wellington; (08) 8572 7302.

Monarto Zoological Park This open-range 1000 ha zoo features Australian, African and Asian animals. It also runs a breeding program for rare and endangered species. Jump on a safari bus tour to see the animals up close. On the way you might encounter the huge giraffe herd or some cheetahs, zebras or rhinoceroses. Tours depart hourly 10.30am–3.30pm. There are also walking tracks through native bushland and mallee country. Princes Hwy; (08) 8534 4100; 10 km W.

Sunnyside Reserve Lookout: views across the wetlands and Murray River; 10 km E. Willow Point Winery: cellar-door tastings and sales of famous ports, sherries and muscats; closed Sun; Jervois Rd; 10 km S. Ferries–McDonald and Monarto conservation parks: walking trails through important mallee conservation areas, prolific birdlife, and blossom in spring; 16 km W. Tailem Bend: a historic railway town with views across the Murray River. A children’s playground features an old steam locomotive, and over 90 historic buildings are displayed at the Old Tailem Town Pioneer Village; 25 km SE. Wellington: situated where Lake Alexandrina meets the Murray River. A museum is in the restored courthouse. Wellington and nearby Jervois have free 24 hr vehicle ferries; 32 km S. Karoonda: the heart of the Mallee, Karoonda is well known for the 1930 meteorite fall nearby (monument at RSL Park). Natural attractions include the limestone caves of Bakara Plains and walking trails in Pioneer Historical Park; 66 km E.

Naracoorte dates from the 1840s, but its growth has been slow. In the 1850s it was a stopover for Victorian gold escorts and miners. Since then it has developed a rich agricultural industry. Today it is renowned for its natural attractions, including the parks and gardens but more significantly the Naracoorte Caves, which are in a national park protected within South Australia’s only World Heritage–listed site.

The Sheep’s Back: a comprehensive museum in the former flour mill (1870) details the history and community of the wool industry, with a craft and souvenir shop and information centre; MacDonnell St; (08) 8762 1518. Naracoorte Art Gallery: local and touring exhibitions; open Tues–Fri; Ormerod St; (08) 8762 3390. Mini Jumbuk Centre: display gallery and sales of woollen products; Smith St; (08) 87623677. Pioneer Park: restored locomotive on display; MacDonnell St. Walking trail: starts at the town centre and winds 5 km along the Naracoorte Creek.

Taste the Limestone Coast: wine and gourmet food festival; Feb. Naracoorte Horse Trials: May. Swap Meet: May. Limestone Coast Children’s Expo: Oct. Naracoorte Show: Oct. Christmas Pageant: Dec.

Naracoorte Flowers Sweet Espresso: florist offering coffee and sweet temptations; Smith St; (08) 8762 1522. Settlers Cafe: cafe with kid-friendly play area; Gordon St; (08) 8762 0700.

Carolynne’s Cottages: Lot 6 Young Dr; (08) 8762 1762. Limestone View (Naracoorte Cottages): 44 Freeling St; 0408 810 645. MacDonnell House (Naracoorte Cottages): 38 MacDonnell St; 0408 810 645. Pinkerton Hill (Naracoorte Cottages): 40 Pinkerton Rd; 0408 810 645. Smith Street Villa (Naracoorte Cottages): 192 Smith St; 0408 810 645. Willowbrook Cottages B&Bs: 3–5 Jenkins Tce; (08) 8762 0259.

Naracoorte Caves National Park For thousands of years the 26 Naracoorte Caves – today protected by national park and World Heritage listing – have acted as a natural trap for animals, providing an environment that was just right for fossilisation. Twenty fossil deposits have been found throughout the 600 hectare park – an incredible record of Australia’s evolution over the last 500 000 years. Guided walking tours take in the chambers, extensive stalagmite and stalactite deposits and fossil collections. The Victoria Fossil Cave Tour is an introduction to the ancient animal history of Australia, while the natural delights of the caves, including helictites and fabulous domed ceilings, are accessed on the 30 min Alexandra Cave Tour. The world of bats is celebrated on the Bat Tour, the highlight being unhindered views of the bats’ activity from infra-red cameras. Adventure caving allows visitors to see the caves in their raw state, while also providing an opportunity for exciting squeezes and crawls through some very tight spaces. For caving beginners, try the Blackberry and Stick-Tomato tours. For the more experienced cavers, enjoy the crawls and sights on the Starburst Chamber Tour. The Fox Cave Tour is the ultimate caving experience, with access to the cave system by a small entrance, leading to great fossil collections, vast speleothem development and incredible scenery. You can get details on these tours from Wonambi Fossil Centre, located within the park; (08) 8762 2340; 12 km SE.

Wrattonbully wine region: a recently established wine region focusing mainly on red wine varieties; 15 km SE. Bool Lagoon Game Reserve: wetland area of international significance, a haven for ibis and over 100 waterbird species. It includes boardwalks and a bird hide; 17 km S. Frances: a historic railway town that each Mar holds the Frances Folk Gathering; 38 km NE. Lucindale: a small country town featuring a Historical Society Museum and Jubilee Park with a lake, island and bird haven. It holds mammoth South East Field Days each Mar; 41 km W. Padthaway: prominent wine region; 47 km NW; see Bordertown.

Barossa Visitor Centre, 66–68 Murray St, Tanunda; (08) 8563 0600 or 1300 852 982; www.barossa.com

The long history of winemaking in this Barossa town is apparent when travelling down the main street. Old vines that glow red in autumn drape the verandahs of equally old buildings. Surprisingly, the town actually began life as a pub. As a trade route wa being established northwards to the Kapunda coppermines, William Coulthard foresaw the demand for rest and refreshment. He built the Old Red Gum Slab Hotel in 1854 and the town developed around it. The Para River runs through Nuriootpa, its course marked by parks and picnic spots.

Coulthard Reserve: popular recreation area; off Penrice Rd. Barossa Trike Tours: provides chauffeured Barossa tours aboard an Oztrike Chopper 4 with seating for 3 as you take in the beauty and splendour of Australia’s most famous wine region; South Tce; 0438 623 342.

Barossa Vintage Festival: celebration of food and wine in various locations; odd-numbered years, Apr. Barossa Gourmet Weekend: Aug. Barossa Farmers Market: each Sat morning, in historic Vintners Sheds, near Angaston.

Cucina Banco: hearty Italian bistro fare; 15 Murray St; (08) 8562 4561. Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop: snacks and goodies; Pheasant Farm Rd; (08) 8562 4477.

Barossa Valley SA Tourist Park: Penrice Rd; (08) 8562 1404. Whistler Farm: 616 Samuel Rd; 0415 139 758.

Barossa wine region The Barossa is Australia’s eminent wine region, a landscape of historic villages panning out to vine-swept hills and grand buildings on old wine estates. Shiraz is the premier drop, with semillon the star of the whites. Some of the old shiraz vines date back to the 1840s, and several winemaking families, many with German backgrounds, are into their sixth generation. Senior names include Yalumba (1849), which is officially part of the Eden Valley, PENFOLDS (1844) and Seppelt (1851). You can sample the iconic PENFOLDS Grange at PENFOLDS Barossa Valley (Tanunda Rd, Nuriootpa, (08) 8568 9408) and even visit the Winemakers’ Laboratory to blend your own wine to take home in a personlised bottle. Seppelt (1 Seppeltsfield Rd, Seppeltsfield, (08) 8568 6217) is a must-visit winery with its elegant bluestone buildings and gardens. Its range of fortified wines includes Spanish styles and classic tawnys – the jewel is Para Liqueur, a tawny released when it is 100 years old. Peter Lehmann (Off Para Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2100) and Wolf Blass (97 Sturt Hwy, Nuriootpa, (08) 8568 7311) are other wellknown wineries in the area. Smaller gems include Charles Melton (Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 3606), known for its Nine Popes blend of shiraz, grenache and mourvedre and for the Rose of Virginia; the nearby Rockford (Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2720), with fantastic wines seldom seen in other Australian states; Torbreck Vintners (Roennfeldt Rd, Marananga, (08) 8562 4155), offering excellent shiraz and shiraz viognier; and Langmeil (Cnr Para and Langmeil rds, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2595). For some history on the Barossa and winemaking, the Jacob’s Creek Visitor Centre (Barossa Valley Way, Rowland Flat, (08) 8521 3000) has a gallery with displays next to its wine-tasting area, where you can sample some of this well-known label’s varieties. For more information on the region see Tanunda, Lyndoch and Angaston.

Light Pass: a small, historic township with notable Lutheran churches and Luhrs Pioneer German Cottage, displaying German artefacts; 3 km E. Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop: tastings and sales of gourmet farm produce from renowned chef and writer Maggie Beer, as well as Pheasant Farm and Beer Brothers wines. Enjoy a gourmet lunch (gourmet picnic-style lunch, (08) 8562 4477); Pheasant Farm Rd; 5 km SW. Wolf Blass Visitor Centre: an opportunity to discover your own unique and memorable Wolf Blass experience, be it through learning about one of Australia’s most storied winemakers or enjoying the tasting room; Sturt Hwy; (08) 8568 7311.

Oodnadatta is a gutsy outback town on the legendary Oodnadatta Track. It was once a major railway town, but the line’s closure in 1981 left it largely deserted. Local Aboriginal people have successfully kept the town operating since then. Today many travellers use it to refuel and gather supplies before heading out to the major desert parks to the north. It is believed that the name Oodnadatta originated from an Aboriginal term meaning ‘yellow blossom of the mulga’.

Pink Roadhouse: a town icon, and also the place to go for information on local road conditions and outback travel advice; Ikaturka Tce. Railway Station Museum: well-preserved sandstone station (1890), now a local museum; key available from roadhouse.

Witjira National Park This arid park is famous for the Dalhousie Springs. These thermal springs emerge from the Great Artesian Basin deep below the surface and are said to be therapeutic (visitors can swim in the main spring). They are also a habitat for many fish species that can adapt to the changing water conditions. A Desert Parks Pass is required; they are available from Mt Dare Homestead (which has fuel and supplies), the Pink Roadhouse or Parks SA (1800 816 078); 180 km N.

Oodnadatta Track: runs from Marree (404 km SE) through Oodnadatta and joins the Stuart Hwy at Marla (212 km NW); see Marree. Neales River: swim in permanent waterholes. The Painted Desert: superb desert scenery of richly coloured hills; 100 km SW. Simpson Desert Conservation Park and Regional Reserve: 4WD tracks across enormous dune desert east of Witjira. Travellers must be totally self-sufficient; details from visitor centre.

Penola is one of the oldest towns in south-east South Australia, and has some excellent wineries nearby. The town is noted for its association with Mary MacKillop, a Josephite nun who in 1866 established Australia’s first school to cater for children regardless of their family’s income or social class. In 2010 she was canonised by the Vatican, making her the first Australian to be declared a saint. Penola is also noted for its literary roots – several Australian poets have been inspired by the landscape and lifestyle.

Mary MacKillop Interpretive Centre and Woods MacKillop Schoolhouse: details the lives of Mary MacKillop and Father Julian Tenison (who shared Mary’s dream) through photos, memorabilia and displays in this 1860s-style schoolhouse; Portland St. Petticoat Lane: heritage area of original cottages, including Sharam Cottage, the first built in town; many are now retail outlets. The John Riddoch Centre: incorporates the Local History Exhibition and Hydrocarbon Centre, featuring hands-on and static displays on natural gas; Arthur St. Toffee and Treats: old-fashioned sweet sales; Church St. Heritage walk: details from visitor centre.

Vigneron Cup: Jan. Petanque Festival: Feb. Penola Coonawarra Arts Festival: arts, food and wine; May. Cellar Dwellers: July. Cabernet Celebrations: Oct. Penola Show: Oct/Nov.

Pipers of Penola: exquisite contemporary cuisine; 58 Riddoch St; (08) 8737 3999.

Georgie’s Cottage: 1 Riddoch St; 0427 100 767. Merlot &Verdelho Accommodation: 14 Arthur St; 0413 512 559. Penola Caravan Park: Cnr Riddoch Hwy and South Tce; (08) 8737 2381.

Coonawarra wine region Prominent wine professionals such as Wolf Blass damned this region as a place that could never produce decent wine, and the original John Riddoch wine estate was nearly sold to the Department of Forestry and Lands (thankfully, David Wynn purchased the property and it is now Wynns Coonawarra). In the 1950s, large wine companies such as PENFOLDS and Yalumba finally began recognising the depth of the region’s reds, and opinions began to change. Coonawarra’s famed terra rossa (red earth) combined with the region’s particular climate is now known to create some of the best cabernet sauvignon in the country, as well as excellent shiraz, merlot, riesling and chardonnay. Wynns Coonawarra produces world-class shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, some for purchase at reasonable prices. Other excellent wineries to visit are Balnaves of Coonawarra, Brand’s of Coonawarra, Majella and Zema Estate.

Yallam Park: a magnificent 2-storey Victorian home with original decorations; by appt (08) 8737 2435; 8 km W. Penola Conservation Park: signposted woodland and wetland walk; 10 km W. Nangwarry Forestry & Logging Museum: features a fascinating array of mill machinery, firefighting equipment, photographs and other artefacts from a bygone era; 18 km S. Glencoe Woolshed: built in 1863, this shed is unique as it was never converted to mechanised shearing. Now a museum with relics of the period; via Nangwarry; 50km S.

Peterborough is a town obsessed with the railway. Its very existence and growth can be claimed by that industry. In 1881 the line to Jamestown was opened and over the next few years the town became a key intersection between all the major South Australian towns. Locals boast about how, in a mammoth one-day effort, 105 trains travelled the Broken Hill to Port Pirie line. The rail passion continued even after many of the lines closed, and today each town entrance has a welcoming model steam train.

Steamtown With a 100-year-old rail history this dynamic museum, located around the old locomotive workshops, is a collection of historic rolling stock, including a converted Morris car that rides the tracks. Also on display is Australia’s only 3-gauge roundhouse and turntable. Main St; (08) 8651 3355.

Town hall: a beautiful, ornate 1927 building with its original theatre and a Federation wall hanging in the foyer; Main St. The Gold Battery: ore-crushing machine; contact visitor centre; end Tripney Ave. Meldonfield: view a world of miniature horsedrawn carriages modelled on the style used in the 1800s; Lloyd St. Dragons Rest Habitat Garden: reptiles and exotic plant life; Watkins Rd. Victoria Park: features a lake and islands with deer and kangaroo enclosure and a playground; Queen St. Bus tour: guided tour of sights and history of town; contact visitor centre. Town walk and drive: self-guide tour; brochure from visitor centre.

Terowie: an old railway town with well-preserved 19th-century main street. Self-guide drive or walk tour; brochure A Tour of Terowie available from tearooms; 24 km SE. Magnetic Hill: park the car, turn off the engine and watch it roll uphill; 32 km NW via Black Rock.

In the 19th century the harshness of the land prevented settlers from properly establishing a farming community here. Instead, they chose the more fertile conditions south-west. The arrival of rail in 1906 and the influx of farming families allowed the community to grow. Although conditions remained tough, the now-renowned Mallee spirit of the farmers allowed the region’s agricultural industry to strengthen to what it is today.

Mallee Tourist and Heritage Centre Established in 1999, the centre dwarfs its former home in the old railway station which is now a Pioneer Women’s Museum. The new building comprises the D. A. Wurfel Grain Collection, featuring the largest cereal collection in Australia (1300 varieties); working letter presses in the Printing Museum; dioramas, interpretive displays and photos depicting local history in the Heritage Museum; and a collection of restored farm machinery in the Gum Family Collection. Open 10am–1pm or by appt; Railway Tce Sth; (08) 8577 8644.

Karte Conservation Park: includes a walking trail through low scrub and 40 m high sand dunes; 30 km NW. Billiatt Conservation Park: the 1 km walk through mallee scrub and dune country ends with panoramic views from Trig Point; 37 km NW. Lameroo: Mallee town with historic 1898 Byrne pug-and-pine homestead (Yappara Rd) and railway station (Railway Tce); 40 km W. Ngarkat group of conservation parks: south-west of town; see Keith. Peebinga Conservation Park: important reserve for the rare western whipbird; Loxton Rd; 42 km N.

Wadlata Outback Centre, 41 Flinders Tce; (08) 8641 9193 or 1800 633 060; www.wadlata.sa.gov.au

Port Augusta is the most northerly port in South Australia. The difficulty of land transportation in the 1800s prompted the town’s establishment in 1854. It was a major wool and wheat shipping depot until its closure in 1973 – luckily the power stations built by the State Electricity Trust were already generating the city’s chief income. Fuelled by coal from the huge open-cut mines at Leigh Creek, the stations generate more than a third of the state’s electricity. Port Augusta is also a supply centre for outback areas, an important link on the Indian–Pacific railway and a stopover for the Adelaide to Darwin Ghan train.

Wadlata Outback Centre This award-winning complex (recently upgraded) covers the natural history of the outback and Flinders Ranges, as well as the people that have called it home throughout the ages. There are hands-on interpretive displays, audiovisual presentations and artefacts. Discover the landscape of 15 million years ago in the Tunnel of Time, and hear ancient Dreamtime stories. The centre is a place in which to learn – Wadlata is an Aboriginal word for communicating. 41 Flinders Tce.

Homestead Park Pioneer Museum: picnic areas, re-creation of a blacksmith’s shop, miniature steam and diesel train rides (1st and 3rd Sun each month), and the restored 130-year-old pine-log Yudnappinna homestead; Elsie St; (08) 8642 2035. Fountain Gallery: local and touring art and cultural exhibitions; open Mon–Fri; Flinders Tce. Gladstone Square: landscaped square surrounded by historic sites, including the courthouse, barracks and Presbyterian church; Cnr Jervois and Marryatt sts. Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden: walks through 200 ha of arid-zone vegetation. Guided tours 10am weekdays; northern outskirts, on the Stuart Hwy; (08) 8641 1049. McLellan Lookout: site of Matthew Flinders’ landing in 1802; Whiting Pde. Water Tower Lookout: spectacular views from the balcony of the 1882 tower; Mitchell Tce. Matthew Flinders Lookout: excellent view of Spencer Gulf and the Flinders Ranges; end of McSporran Cres. Boat cruises and adventure tours: contact visitor centre. Heritage walk: self-guide town walk includes courthouse and the magnificent stained glass in St Augustine’s Church; brochure from visitor centre. Curdnatta Art and Pottery Gallery: highquality painting, pottery and fabric art; Flinders Tce.

Nuttbush Retreat Caravan Park: Pandurra Station, Eyre Hwy; (08) 8643 8941. Port Augusta BIG4 Holiday Park – Aspen Parks: Cnr Princes/Eyre Hwy and Stokes Tce, Port Augusta West; (08) 8642 2974.

Spencer Gulf: watersports, yachting and fishing for King George whiting in northern waters. Scenic drive: north-east to the splendid Pichi Richi Pass, historic Quorn and Warren Gorge. See the same sights by train on Pichi Richi Railway, a 33 km round trip operating from Quorn; see Quorn.

This Yorke Peninsula holiday town has a quiet coastal feel in winter and bustles with sun-seeking holiday-makers in summer. Set on a quiet inlet on Spencer Gulf, it has a long fishing history. In the 1900s the fishing fleets and ketches operated from the jetty. Today the town is still a major port for fishing boats and each week truckloads of blue swimmer crabs depart for city restaurants.

Heritage Centre: local history museum in the old school; Edmund St. Sailboat hire and fishing charters: from foreshore. Town jetty: popular fishing spot. Historical walking trail: grab a Walk Around Port Broughton booklet from the visitor centre and navigate the historical sights of the town, including the Heritage Plaques on the foreshore.

Fisherman Bay: fishing, boating and holiday spot with over 400 holiday shacks; 5 km N along the coast.

Port Elliot is a charming historic town set on scenic Horseshoe Bay. Its popularity as a holiday destination lies in the fabulous beaches and the relaxed coastal atmosphere. The town was established in 1854, the year Australia’s first public (horse-drawn) railway began operating between Goolwa and the town. Port Elliot’s intended purpose as an ocean port for the Murray River was, however, unsuccessful. The bay proved less protected than was first thought and the port was moved to Victor Harbor.

National Trust Historical Display: interpretive centre detailing local history in the old railway station; The Strand. The Strand: historic street of art and craft shops, cafes and restaurants. Cockle Train: stops at the railway station on Henry St on its journey from Goolwa Wharf to Victor Harbor, so you can do a section of the journey from here; for more details see Goolwa. Freeman Nob: spectacular views and coastal walks; end of The Strand. Encounter Bikeway: scenic coastal route between Goolwa and Victor Harbor. Horseshoe Bay: safe family beach with fishing from jetty. Boomer Beach: popular surfing beach; western edge of town. Maritime Heritage Trail: the town’s story illustrated in foreshore displays. Heritage walk: brochure from railway station.

Market: Lakala Reserve; 1st and 3rd Sat each month. Port Elliot Show: Oct.

Flying Fish Cafe: popular seafood destination; 1 The Foreshore, Horseshoe Bay; (08) 8554 3504.

Brooklands Heritage B&B: Heysen Rd; (08) 8554 3808. Tarooki B&B: 13 Charteris St; (08) 8554 2886. Trafalgar on the Strand: 25 The Strand; (08) 8554 3888. Middleton Caravan Park: 23 Goolwa Rd, Middleton; (08) 8554 2383.

Basham Beach Regional Park: scenic coastal trails with interpretive signage and southern right whale sightings during their migration season, June–Sept; just north-east of Port Elliot. Middleton: coastal town with heritage bakery, the old flour mill and fabulous beaches; 3 km NE. Crows Nest Lookout: excellent views of the coast; 6 km N.

Each January, this township on the Eyre Peninsula celebrates the life of the tuna – one of the few festivals in Australia devoted to a fish, and a fair indication of the reign tuna has over this town. Lincoln Cove, the marina, is the base for Australia’s largest, and most expensive, tuna fleet and tuna-farming industry. Port Lincoln is set on attractive Boston Bay, which is three times the size of Sydney Harbour. The townsite was reached by Matthew Flinders in his expedition of 1802, and he named it in honour of his home, Lincolnshire, in England. Sheltered waters, a Mediterranean climate and scenic coastal roads make this a popular holiday spot.

Mill Cottage: National Trust museum with early pioneering artefacts and paintings; open 2–4pm Wed and Sun or by appt; Flinders Hwy. Railway Museum: relics of the railway past displayed in a historic 1926 stone building; open 1–4pm Wed, Sat and Sun; Railway Pl. Axel Stenross Maritime Museum: features original boatbuilding tools and working slipway; open 9am–4.30pm Tues, Thurs and Sun, 1–4.30pm, Sat and public hols; tours by appt; Lincoln Hwy; 1300 788 378. Settler’s Cottage: stone cottage with early pioneer photos and documents; open 2–4.30pm Sun (closed July and Aug) or by appt; in Flinders Park, Flinders Hwy. Kotz Stationary Engines: museum collection of oil and petrol engines; Baltimore St. Nautilus Theatre: features 2 galleries of local and touring art, a gallery shop and a wine bar; Tasman Tce. Kuju Arts and Crafts: Aboriginal craft sales; closed Sat and Sun; Ravendale Rd. Mayne Gallery: local arts and crafts; open 12.30–4.30pm daily; King St. Lincoln Cove: includes marina, leisure centre with water slide, holiday charter boats and the base for the commercial fishing fleet (tastings of local catches available). Guided walking tours of the marina are available from the visitor centre; off Ravendale Rd. Boston Bay: swimming, waterskiing, yachting and excellent fishing. Try swimming with tuna; 1300 000 8862. Yacht and boat charters: for gamefishing, diving, day fishing and for viewing sea lions, dolphins and birdlife around Sir Joseph Banks Group Conservation Park and Dangerous Reef; contact visitor centre for details. Aquaculture Cruise: offers you a chance to view the working tuna farms (when in season) and to taste some mouth-watering local sashimi; a sea lion colony can also be visted; contact visitor centre for details. Boston Island boat tours: cruises around bay and island; contact visitor centre for details. Adventure tours and safaris: offshore and land adventure offered, including close-up tuna tours, shark expeditions and 4WD safaris; contact visitor centre for details. Old Mill Lookout: panoramic views of town and bay; Dorset Pl. Parnkalla Walking Trail: 14 km trail with coastal views and abundant wildlife. It forms part of the longer Investigator Walking Trail from North Shields to Lincoln National Park; brochure from visitor centre.

Tunarama Festival: Jan. Adelaide to Lincoln Yacht Race and Lincoln Week Regatta: Feb/Mar. Port Lincoln Show: Aug.

Del Giorno’s Cafe Restaurant: wonderful Italianinspired seafood; 80 Tasman Tce; (08) 8683 0577. The Marina Bistro: seafood and grills; The Marina Hotel, 13 Jubilee Dr; (08) 8682 6141. Sarins: great seafood and views; 1 Lincoln Hwy; 1300 766 100.

Pitstop on Telford Port Lincoln: 9 Telford Ave; (08) 8682 5353. Port Lincoln Tourist Park: 11 Hindmarsh St; (08) 8621 4444. The Yardarm B&B Holiday Unit: 14 Telford Ave; (08) 8683 0984.

Lincoln National Park This spectacular coastal park has a network of walking trails through rugged wilderness areas to fantastic coastal scenery. The park is an important sanctuary for migrating birds. To see the park from a height, take the 1.1 km return hike up Stamford Hill. At the top is the Flinders Monument and panoramic views of the coast. For a true, uninterrupted wilderness experience, grab a key and permit from the visitor centre and head on to Memory Cove, a calm bay with a fantastic beach. There is also a replica of the plaque placed by Matthew Flinders in 1802 in memory of 8 crew members lost in seas nearby. 4WD enthusiasts would enjoy the challenges of the Sleaford Bay coast. (08) 8688 3111; 20 km S.

Delacolline Estate Wines: well known for blended variety of sauvignon blanc/semillon; tastings and sales; alfresco cafe open 11am–4pm Wed–Sun and public hols; Whillas Rd; 08 8682 4000;1 km W. Winters Hill Lookout: views to Boston Bay, Boston Island and Port Lincoln; Flinders Hwy; 5 km NW. Boston Bay Winery: tastings and sales; open daily; Lincoln Hwy; (08) 8684 3600 6 km N. Roseview Emu Park and Rose Gardens: picturesque gardens in bush setting, with sales of emu produce; Little Swamp La; 10 km NW. Glen-Forest Tourist Park: native animals, bird-feeding and miniature golf course; Greenpatch; 15 km NW. Poonindie Church: quaint old church built in 1850 with the unique feature of 2 chimneys; 20 km N. Mikkira Station and Koala Park: historic 1842 homestead, with bushwalks to see native wildlife. Permit required, available from visitor centre; off Fishery Bay Rd; 26 km SW. Constantia Designer Craftsmen: guided tours of world-class furniture factory and showroom; open Mon–Fri; on road to Whalers Way. Whalers Way: cliff-top drive through privately owned sanctuary inhabited by seals, ospreys, kangaroos and emus. Permit from visitor centre; 32 km S.

Port MacDonnell is a quiet fishing town that was once a thriving port. The establishment of the breakwater in 1975 has ensured the southern rock lobster trade many more years of fruitful operation. The fleet is now the largest in Australia. While fishing is the main focus of the area, the rich maritime history, fascinating crystal pools and coastal scenery attract visitors year-round.

Port MacDonnell and District Maritime Museum The long maritime history of this stretch of coast is littered with stories of shipwrecks and bravery. Here photos and salvaged artefacts bring the old days to life. A particularly tragic story is the crash of the Admella on an off-coast reef in 1859. Only 24 of the 113 people aboard survived. There is also a focus on community history and on the rock lobster industry. Open 12.30–4.30pm Wed, Fri and Sun; Meylin St; (08) 8738 7259.

Clarke’s Park: popular picnic spot with natural spring; northern outskirts. Fishing: anglers will enjoy fishing from the jetty and landing. Boat charters available for deep-sea catches of tuna; details from visitor centre. Heritage walk: includes historic cemetery with hidden headstones; contact visitor centre.

Port MacDonnell Foreshore Tourist Park: Eight Mile Creek Rd; (08) 8738 2095. Kywong Caravan Park: North Nelson Rd, Nelson, Vic.; (08) 8738 4174.

Ewens Ponds and Piccaninnie Ponds conservation parks For a unique snorkelling or diving experience, visit the crystalclear waters of these parks. At Ewens Ponds (7 km E) there are 3 ponds, connected via channels. Snorkel on the surface to see the amazing plant life underwater, or go diving for the ultimate experience. The deep caverns in Piccaninnie Ponds (20 km E) offer visitors an insight into the underwater world. Snorkellers can gaze into the depths of the Chasm, while divers can explore the limestone-filtered waters of the Cathedral, so named because of its regal white walls. While no experience is necessary for snorkelling, divers require qualifications. Inquiries and bookings to SA Parks and Wildlife, (08) 8735 1177.

Cape Northumberland Heritage and Nature Park: a coastal park famous for sunrises and sunsets. Other highlights include a historic lighthouse, a penguin colony and unusual rock formations; just west of town. Dingley Dell Conservation Park: the historic 1862 restored cottage that is located here was once the home of Australian poet Adam Lindsay Gordon and features displays on his life and work; tours 10am–4pm daily; 2 km W. Germein Reserve: 8 km boardwalk (loop track) through wetlands; opposite Dingley Dell. Southern Ocean Shipwreck Trail: over 89 vessels came to grief on the section of coast from the Victorian border to the Murray River mouth. The drive trail includes 10 interpretive sites; brochure from visitor centre.

Regional Tourism and Arts Centre, 3 Mary Elie St; (08) 8633 8700 or 1800 000 424; www.piriehasitall.com.au

Industry in its splendour greets the visitor at this major industrial and commercial centre. The oil tanks, grain silos and 250-metrehigh smokestack all tower over the city, while on the waterfront huge local and overseas vessels are loaded and discharged. Broken Hill Proprietary Company (BHP) began mining lead in 1889 and various South Australian ports at that time vied for BHP’s smelting business. Port Pirie eventually won, and created what is today the largest lead smelter in the world. Wheat and barley from the mid-north are also exported from here. Port Pirie shows great character in its old buildings and attractive main street, and Spencer Gulf and the Port Pirie River offer swimming, waterskiing, fishing and yachting.

Regional Tourism and Arts Centre This award-winning centre comprises an eclectic mix of exhibitions, art and information. A lifelike fibreglass model of the largest white pointer shark taken from SA’s waters is on display. Local and regional history is presented through a series of art pieces and on the miniature railway, Pirie Rail Express, which replicates the journey from Port Pirie to Broken Hill (runs 1st and 3rd Sun each month). There are local and touring art exhibitions in the art gallery and the centre runs tours to the Pasminco smelter. Mary Elie St; (08) 8633 8700.

National Trust Museum: located in historic town buildings, including the old customs house (1882) and the Victorian pavilion-style railway station, the museum houses a local history display and rooms furnished in early-1900s style; Ellen St. Memorial Park: features the John Pirie anchor, memorials, and the Northern Festival Centre; Memorial Dr. Fishing: good local spots include the main wharf. Self-guide walks: including National Trust Walking Tours and The Journey Landscape, a 1.6 km nature trail representing changes in vegetation from Broken Hill to Port Pirie; brochures from visitor centre.

State Masters Games: even-numbered years, Apr. Blessing of the Fleet: celebrates the role of Italians in establishing the local fishing industry; Sept. Festival of Country Music: Oct.

Port Pirie Beach Caravan Park: Beach Rd; (08) 8632 4275. Range View Caravan and Cabin Park: Lot 513 Port Wakefield Rd (Princes Hwy); (08) 8634 4221. Port Germein Caravan Park: The Esplanade, Port Germein; (08) 8634 5266.

Weeroona Island: good fishing and holiday area accessible by car; 13 km N. Port Germein: a quiet beachside town with a tidal beach safe for swimming. At 1.7 km, the town’s jetty is one of the longest in Australia; 23 km N. Telowie Gorge Conservation Park: follow the marked Nukunu Trail from the park’s entrance to the breathtaking Telowie Gorge on the south-west edge of the Flinders Ranges. Care should be taken on less-formal tracks in the park; 24 km NE.

Port Victoria Kiosk, Esplanade; or The Farm Shed Museum and Tourist Centre, 50 Moonta Rd, Kadina; (08) 8821 2333 or 1800 654 991; www.yorkepeninsula.com.au

A tiny township on the west coast of Yorke Peninsula, Port Victoria was tipped to be a thriving port town after James Hughes travelled up the coast in 1840. Hughes, a land surveyor, studied the coastline from his schooner, Victoria, and reported favourably on the region. It became an important port for grain exports, with windjammers transporting wheat from here to Europe. The town still proudly proclaims that it is the ‘last of the windjammer ports’.

Maritime Museum: displays, relics and artefacts of the great era of the windjammer; open 2–4pm weekends and public holidays; Main St. Jetty: original 1888 jetty with good swimming and fishing; end of Main St. Geology trail: 4 km interpretive track along the foreshore explains the coast’s ancient volcanic history; brochure from visitor centre.

Goose Island Conservation Park: important breeding area for several bird species and the Australian sea lion; 13 km offshore; access by private boat. Wardang Island: this large island is an Aboriginal reserve, and permission for access is required from Goreta (Point Pearce) Aboriginal Community Council; (08) 8836 7205; near Goose Island. Wardang Island Maritime Heritage Trail: this scuba-diving and overland trail includes 8 shipwreck sites with underwater plaques around Wardang Island and 6 interpretive signs at Port Victoria; waterproof self-guide leaflet available from visitor centre.

Nestled in a valley in the Flinders Ranges, Quorn was established as a town on the Great Northern Railway line in 1878. The line was built by Chinese and British workers and operated for over 45 years (it closed in 1957). Part of the line through Pichi Richi Pass has been restored as a tourist railway, taking passengers on a scenic 33-kilometre round trip via Port Augusta. The town’s old charm has not been lost on movie producers – the historic streetscapes and surrounding landscapes have been used in many films.

Railway Workshop Tours: guided tours of the workshop where locomotives travelling on the Pichi Richi line are maintained and restored. Tours by appt; book at visitor centre. Junction Art Gallery: local art exhibition; Railway Tce. Outback Colours Art Gallery: Seventh St. Town walks: the Walking Tour of Quorn and the Quorn Historic Buildings walk; brochures from visitor centre.

Flinders Ranges Bush Festival: Apr. Taste of the Outback: Apr. Race Meeting: June. Pichi Richi Marathon: July. Quorn Show: Sept. Spring Craft Fair: Oct. Christmas Pageant and Party: Dec.x

Pichi Richi Railway: historical tourist train travels through dramatic countryside from Quorn to Port Augusta and back; tours by arrangement; bookings 1800 440 101 or through visitor centre. Quorn Native Flora Reserve: stone reserve, once the town’s quarry, with informative brochure available that details the reserve’s flora; Quarry Rd; 2 km NW. Pichi Richi Camel Tours: award-winning camel tours through the gorgeous native bushland, with candlelit dinners and moonlight rides on offer; Devils Peak Rd; (08) 8648 6640; 6 km SE. The Dutchmans Stern Conservation Park: colourful rocky outcrops observed on 2 trails through the park. The Ridge Top Trail (8.2 km return) offers spectacular views of the Flinders Ranges and Spencer Gulf; 8 km W. Devil’s Peak Walking Trail: panoramic views up steep climb to the summit; closed Nov–Apr (fire season); 10 km S. Mt Brown Conservation Park: mixed landscape of ridges and woodland. The loop trail, starting at Waukarie Falls, offers a side climb to the Mt Brown summit; Richman Valley Rd; 15 km S. Warren Gorge: imposing red cliffs popular with climbers. Also the habitat of the rare yellow-footed rock wallaby; 23 km N. Buckaringa Gorge Scenic Drive: drive past Buckaringa Sanctuary and Proby’s Grave (he was the first settler at Kanyaka Station) to a lookout accessed via a short walk; begins 35 km N.

It is hard to imagine that the lush lands around Renmark, thriving with orchards and vineyards, were once a veritable wasteland. In 1887 the Canadian-born Chaffey brothers were granted 30 000 acres (12 000 hectares) by the South Australian government to test their irrigation scheme. Theirs was the first of its type to succeed in Australia and today the farmlands are still irrigated with water piped from the Murray River.

Olivewood: National Trust historic building, formerly the Chaffey homestead, dressed in period furnishings, with famous olive trees in the orchard; closed Wed; Cnr Renmark Ave and Twenty-first St. PS Industry: 1911 grand lady of the river still operates on steam when taking visitors on her monthly cruises; 90 min tours run at 11am and 1.30pm first Sun each month; bookings at visitor centre. Renmark Hotel: historic communityowned and -run hotel; Murray Ave. Nuts About Fruit: sales of local dried fruit, nuts and other produce; closed Sun; Renmark Ave. Renmark Riverfront walk: wander along and take in great views of town along the Murray River. Murray River cruises: houseboat hire or paddlesteamer tours to cruise the mighty Murray; contact visitor centre for details.

Dash for Cash: Feb. Riverland Dingy Derby: Feb. Riverland Balloon Fiesta: June. Rose Festival: Oct. Renmark Show: Oct. World Future Cycle Challenge: Nov.

Renmark Club: traditional Australian bistro fare; 160 Murray Ave; (08) 8586 6611.

Bookmark Biosphere Reserve This reserve incorporates the mallee country and arid outback landscapes of Chowilla Regional Reserve and Danggali Conservation Park. In Chowilla (50 km N) are stretches of flood plains interspersed with native woodland and scrubland. Fishing, canoeing and birdwatching are popular and the history of the flood plains is explained on the Old Coach Road Vehicle Trail. Danggali (90 km N) is a vast wilderness area with interesting trails to explore. The 2 drive tours, Nanya’s Pad Interpretive Drive (100 km circuit, 2WD accessible) and Tipperary Drive (100 km circuit, 4WD only), are both excellent introductions to the mallee scrub region, while the 10 km Target Mark Walking Trail passes through native vegetation to the dam.

Lock and Weir No. 5: picnic in surrounding parklands; 2 km SE. Paringa: small farming community featuring a historic suspension bridge (1927), Bert Dix Memorial Park and nearby Headings Cliffs Lookout; 4 km E. Angove’s: producers of St Agnes Brandy as well as wine, with cellar-door tastings and sales; Bookmark Ave; 5 km SW. Bredl’s Wonder World of Wildlife: unique fauna, particularly reptiles. Handling and feeding times between 11am and 3pm; (08) 8595 1431; 7 km SW. Ruston’s Rose Garden: the Southern Hemisphere’s largest rose garden with over 50 000 bushes and 4000 varieties; open Oct–May; Moorna St, off Sturt Hwy; (08) 8586 6191; 7 km SW. Dunlop Big Tyre: spans the Sturt Hwy at Yamba Roadhouse and marks the fruit-fly inspection point (no fruit allowed between Victoria and SA); 16 km SE. Murray River National Park, Bulyong Island section: popular park for water-based activities, fishing and birdwatching; just upstream from Renmark on the Murray River.

Ann’s Place Bed & Breakfast: 2 Royal Circus; (08) 8768 2262. Discovery Holiday Parks – Robe: 70–80 Esplanade; (08) 8768 2237. Lakeside Tourist Park: 24 Main Rd; (08) 8768 2193. Number 13 on the Beach: 13 Seafarers Cres; (08) 8768 2116. Robe Heritage Accommodation: 1A Hagen St; (08) 8768 2770. Sea Vu Caravan Park: 1 Squire Dr; (08) 8768 2273.

Mt Benson wine region Mt Benson is the only sub-wine region actually located on the coast. The first vines were planted less than two decades ago, and the region is still revealing its true colours. The large venture of Norfolk Rise, established by an international company, indicates the area’s promise. Make sure to try its shiraz. Other wineries to visit are Wehl’s Mt Benson Vineyard, Cape Jaffa Wines and Ralph Fowler Wines, which is also the cellar door for Frog Island, inland from Robe.

Lake Fellmongery: popular spot for waterskiing; 1 km SE. Long Beach: 17 km pristine beach for surfing and swimming. Cars are allowed on the sand; 2 km N. Little Dip Conservation Park: features a complex, moving sand-dune system, salt lakes, freshwater lakes and abundant wildlife. Drive or walk through native bush to beaches for surfing and beach-fishing; some areas 4WD only; 2 km S. Beacon Hill: panoramic views of Robe, lakes and coast from lookout tower; Beacon Hill Rd; 2 km SE. The Obelisk: navigational marker at Cape Dombey. Scenic access via cliff walk from the Old Gaol at Robe; 2 km W.

Guichen Bay and Robe’s coastline would have been a welcome sight to the Chinese immigrants arriving in the mid-1800s. During the Victorian gold rush, around 16 500 Chinese disembarked here and travelled overland to the goldfields to avoid the Poll Tax enforced at Victorian ports. Robe had a thriving export trade before rail was introduced, which has left a legacy of historic buildings, from quaint stone cottages to the Caledonian Inn, with internal doors salvaged from shipwrecks. Today Robe is one of the state’s most significant historic towns, but also a fishing port and holiday centre, famous for its crayfish and its secluded beaches.

The Robe Institute: incorporates the visitor centre, library and Historic Interpretation Centre with photographic and audiovisual displays on Robe’s history; Mundy Tce. Robe Customs House: historic 1863 building, once the hub of Robe’s export trade, now a museum featuring Chinese artefacts and displays; open 2–4pm Tues, Sat and daily in Jan; Royal Circus. Art and craft galleries: throughout town, especially in Smillie and Victoria sts. Deep Sea Fishing charter: sightseeing cruise also on offer; bookings (08) 8768 1807. Crayfish fleet: anchors in Lake Butler (Robe’s harbour); sells fresh crayfish and fish Oct–Apr. Walk and scenic drive tours: self-guide tours available. Take the town walk past 81 historic buildings and sites; brochures from visitor centre.

Robe Easter Surfing Classic: Easter. Blessing of the Fleet: celebrates the role of Italians in establishing the local fishing industry; Sept. Robe Village Fair: last full weekend in Nov.

In 1975 Roxby Downs station was a hard-working property on the red sand dunes of central South Australia. That was until a body of copper and uranium, the largest in the world, was discovered near a dam. Roxby Downs, the township, was built to accommodate the employees of the Olympic Dam mining project and has many modern facilities.

Cultural Precinct: incorporates the visitor centre, cinema, cafe, art gallery with local and touring exhibitions, and interpretive display on town and dam history; Richardson Pl. Arid Discovery: area of native landscape with sunset tours to see reintroduced native animals, including bilbies and burrowing bettongs. A highlight is the close viewing of animals in the observation hide; contact visitor centre for tour details. Emu Walk: self-guide flora walk through town; contact visitor centre.

Market: Richardson Pl; closest Sat to the 15th each month. Outback Fringe Festival: Apr.

Olympic Dam Mining Complex: an extensive underground system of roadways and trains services the mine that produces refined copper, uranium oxide, gold and silver. The mine is 9 km N, but limited views are available at the site. Olympic Dam Tours run surface tours 3 days a week; times and bookings through the visitor centre.

Situated on the lower east coast of Yorke Peninsula and with views of Gulf St Vincent, Stansbury was originally known as Oyster Bay because of its claim to the best oyster beds in the state. The town has always serviced the farms inland, but its mainstay today is tourism. The bay is excellent for fishing and watersports, including diving and waterskiing.

Schoolhouse Museum: this local history museum in Stansbury’s first school features cultural and environmental displays as well as the headmaster’s rooms furnished in early-1900s style; open 2–4pm Wed and Sun, daily in Jan; North Tce. Oyster farms: see daily operations of local oyster farms and try fresh oysters. Fishing: popular spots include the jetty, rocks and beach. Mills’ Gully Lookout: popular picnic spot with panoramic views of bay, town and Gulf St Vincent; northern outskirts of town. Coastal trails: walking and cycling trails past reserves, lookouts and a historic cemetery; start at foreshore caravan park; brochure from visitor centre.

Stansbury Seaside Markets: monthly Oct–May; check dates with visitor centre. Stansbury and Port Vincent Wooden and Classic Boat Regatta: even-numbered years, Apr. Sheepdog Trials: odd-numbered years, May.

Stansbury Progress Assoc Foreshore Caravan Park: Anzac Pde; (08) 8852 4171. Port Vincent Caravan Park &Seaside Cabins: 12 Minlacowie Rd, Port Vincent; (08) 8853 7011. Port Vincent Foreshore Caravan Park: Marine Pde, Port Vincent; (08) 8853 7073.

Kleines Point Quarry: SA’s largest limestone quarry; 5 km S. Lake Sundown: one of the many salt lakes in the area and a photographer’s delight at sunset; 15 km NW. Port Vincent: popular holiday destination with good swimming, yachting and waterskiing; 17 km N.

This heritage town has some of the most picturesque and historic streetscapes in country South Australia. It has a predominantly Scottish heritage, first settled by Dr John Rankine, who emigrated with 105 other Scotsmen in the late 1830s. The town is set on the Angas River, with the Soldiers Memorial Gardens following the watercourse through the town. Strathalbyn is renowned for its antique and craft shops.

National Trust Museum: history display in the courtroom, Victorian-era relics in the courthouse, and a historical room and photographic displays in the Old Police Station; open 2–5pm Wed, Thurs, Sat and Sun; Rankine St. Old Railway Station: complex includes the visitor centre, the Station Master’s Gallery with local and touring art exhibitions (open Wed–Sun), and the station for the tourist railway from Mount Barker, the SteamRanger (see Hahndorf); South Tce. St Andrew’s Church: impressive church with castle-like tower; Alfred Pl. Original Lolly Shop: old-fashioned lollies and fudge; High St. Antiques, art and craft shops: outlets in High St. Heritage walk: self-guide trail featuring over 30 heritage buildings and the architectural delights of Albyn Tce; brochure available from visitor centre.

Collectors, Hobbies and Antique Fair: Aug.Strathalbyn Show: Oct. Glenbarr Highland Gathering: Oct. Rotary Duck Race: plastic ducks; Nov.

Clayton Bay Caravan Park: Island View Dr, Clayton Bay; (08) 8537 0372. Longview Vineyard: Pound Rd, Macclesfield; (08) 8388 9694. Milang Lakeside Caravan Park: 1 Woodrow Dr, Milang; (08) 8537 0282. The Old Oak Bed & Breakfast: Cnr Bald Hill and Goolwa rds, Bull Creek; (08) 8536 6069. The Stumps B&B: Hill Top Rd, Macclesfield; (08) 8388 9513.

Milang This old riverboat town is now a popular holiday destination on the shores of Lake Alexandrina, Australia’s largest freshwater lake. The lake offers fishing, sailing and windsurfing. In town, visit the Port Milang Railway for its local history display and pick up a Heritage Trail brochure for a self-guide walk. Each Australia Day weekend the Milang–Goolwa Freshwater Classic fills the town with visitors who come to watch hundreds of yachts begin the race. 20 km SE.

Langhorne Creek wine region This highly productive area lies to the east of McLaren Vale on the flood plains of the Bremer and Angas rivers. The flat terrain and access to water for irrigation have made it the target of large-scale operations, but the wines produced, particularly shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, have an endearing softness as well as depth of flavour. Bleasdale Vineyards dates back to 1850 and its wines are the classic Langhorne Creek label sold at reasonable prices. Zonte’s Footstep also has good, value-for-money wines. Other wineries to visit in the area include Lake Breeze Wines and Temple Bruer, which is certified organic.

Lookout: views over town and district; 7 km SW. Ashbourne: buy local produce at roadside stalls and at the country market held 3rd Sun each month; 14 km W. Meadows: features Pottery at Paris Creek and Iris Gardens (open Oct–Mar) nearby. The Country Fair is held each Oct; 15 km NW.

Rural Transaction and Visitor Information Centre, 21 Bay Rd; (08) 8626 7033; www.streakybay.sa.gov.au

A holiday town, fishing port and agricultural centre for the cereal-growing hinterland. The bay was first sighted in 1627 by Dutch explorer Peter Nuyts, but it wasn’t fully explored until 1802 by Matthew Flinders. Flinders named the bay after the ‘streaky’ colour of the water, caused by seaweed oils. While this town is pretty, it is the surrounding bays and coves, sandy beaches and towering cliffs that bring the visitors.

National Trust Museum: early pioneer history displays in the old school, as well as a restored pioneer cottage and a doctor’s surgery; open 2–4pm Tues and Fri, or by appt; Montgomerie Tce; (08) 8626 1443. Powerhouse Restored Engine Centre: display of old working engines; open 2–5pm Tues and Fri; Alfred Tce. Shell Roadhouse: Great White Shark replica (original caught with rod and reel); Alfred Tce. Fishing: for King George whiting, southern rock lobster, salmon, mullaway, garfish, abalone and shark (check with PIRSA & Fisheries centre).

Streaky Bay Foreshore Tourist Park: 82 Wells St; (08) 8626 1666. Coodlie Park Farm Retreat: Coodlie Park (via Flinders Hwy), Port Kenny; (08) 8687 0411.

Scenic drives: include Westall Way Scenic Drive, which starts 9 km S, taking in rock formations, high cliffs, quiet pools and the Yanerbie Sand Dunes. Also the drive west of town to Cape Bauer and the Blowhole (20 km NW), for views across the Bight. Calpatanna Waterhole Conservation Park: bushwalking in coastal park to an important Aboriginal waterhole; excellent birdwatching; 28 km SE. Murphy’s Haystacks: a muchphotographed cluster of pink granite boulders, with interpretive signage and paths; 40 km SE. Baird Bay: a small coastal town with an attractive beach for swimming, boating and fishing. Baird Bay Charters and Ocean Ecotours offer swims with sea lions and dolphins; (08) 8626 5017; 45 km SE. Point Labatt Conservation Park: from the cliff-top viewing platform, see the rare and endangered Australian sea lions sleeping on the beach (this colony is the only permanent one on the Australian mainland). Parts of access road unsealed; 50 km SE. Venus Bay Conservation Park: important reserve for breeding and reintroduction of native species. The park includes the peninsula and 7 islands with beach-fishing and swimming. Peninsula access is 4WD only; turn-off 50 km SE. Acraman Creek Conservation Park: this mangrove and mallee park is an important refuge for coastal birds. Popular activities include canoeing and fishing. 2WD access to beach, 4WD to Point Lindsay; turn-off 53 km N. Port Kenny: this small township on Venus Bay offers excellent fishing, boating and swimming, with sea lion and dolphin tours available; 62 km SE. Venus Bay: fishing village renowned for catches of King George whiting, trevally, garfish and many more. Its waters are safe for swimming and watersports, and nearby beaches are good for surfing. Needle Eye Lookout close by provides fantastic views, with southern right whale sightings June–Oct; 76 km S.

General Store, 47 Anzac Ave; (08) 8570 2036 or 1800 442 784; www.murraylands.info

This quiet little township on the Murray River was once one of five large sheep stations; the original homestead is now the Swan Reach Hotel. Established as one of the first river ports for Murray River trade, the introduction of rail, and Morgan’s rise as one of the state’s busiest ports, saw the era of paddlesteamers in Swan Reach decline. Today the picturesque river scenery and excellent fishing make the town a popular holiday destination.

Swan Reach Museum: local history displays with special interest in Swan Reach’s flood history, the waters having devastated the town in the early 1900s; Nildottie Rd.

Yookamurra Sanctuary This sanctuary represents an initiative to restore 1100 ha of land to its original state. Fittingly, the sanctuary is named Yookamurra after the Aboriginal word for ‘yesterday’. The mallee vegetation that was found here before European habitation has been replanted; keep an eye out for the rare and endangered numbat or the bilby and woylie. Walking tours and overnight stays are available. Bookings are essential, (08) 8562 5011; Pipeline Rd, Sedan; 21 km W.

Murray Aquaculture Yabby Farm: catch your own yabbies; 1.5 km E. Ridley and Swan Reach conservation parks: both parks represent typical western Murray vegetation and protect the habitat of the hairy-nosed wombat; 7.5 km S and 10 km W respectively. Ngaut Ngaut Boardwalk: guided tours of archaeological site, established when an ancient skeleton was discovered; Nildottie; 14 km S. Big Bend: imposing Murray cliffs, the tallest found on the river, home to diverse flora and fauna. Spectacular nightly tours are available; inquiries (08) 8570 1097; 20 km downstream. Bakara Conservation Park: malleecovered plains and sand dunes, important habitat for the mallee fowl; 32 km E. Brookfield Conservation Park: bushwalking in limestone country to see hairy-nosed wombats, red kangaroos and a variety of bird species; 40 km NW.

Barossa Visitor Information Centre, Murray St; (08) 8563 0600 or 1300 852 982; www.barossa.com

Tanunda is at the heart of the Barossa and surrounded by vineyards. The modern-day township grew out of the village of Langmeil, which was the focal point for early German settlement. The German Lutherans found it only natural to plant vines, as it was a basic part of their lifestyle. Many of the Barossa’s shiraz vines date back to those early days. Tanunda has a boisterous German spirit, good eateries and fine examples of Lutheran churches.

Barossa Historical Museum: situated in the former post and telegraph office (1865), its collections specialise in German heritage; Murray St. Gourmet produce: specialty stores include Tanunda Bakery for German breads (Murray St), Tanunda’s Nice Ice for homemade ice-cream (Kavel Arcade) and Apex Bakery for traditional pastries (Elizabeth St). Heritage walk: includes many historic Lutheran churches; more details available from visitor centre in Murray St.

Barossa Under the Stars: Mar. Tanunda Show: Mar. Barossa Vintage Festival: celebration of locally produced food and wine in various locations; odd-numbered years, Apr. Barossa Gourmet Weekend: Aug. Barossa Band Festival: Oct.

1918 Bistro & Grill: modern Australian; 94 Murray St; (08) 8563 0405. Apex Bakery: traditional German bakery; 1A Elizabeth St, (08) 8563 2483. Krondorf Road Cafe: authentic German recipes; Krondorf Rd; (08) 8563 0889. Appellation: benchmark regional fine dining; The Louise, cnr Seppeltsfield and Stonewall rds, Marananga; (08) 8562 2722. Jacob’s Restaurant: sleek cellar-door dining; Jacob’s Creek Visitor Centre, Barossa Valley Way, Rowland Flat; (08) 8521 3000.

Barossa House Bed & Breakfast: Barossa Valley Way; (08) 8562 4022. Barossa Vista: 1B Murray St; 0423 019 353. Blickinstal Barossa Valley Retreat: Rifle Range Rd; (08) 8563 2716. Clara’s Cottage: 13 John St; (08) 8563 0004. The Dove Cote: 13 Edward St; (08) 8563 2716. Frieda’s Cottage: 17 Young St; (08) 8563 0004. Goat Square Cottages: 33 John St; (08) 8524 5353. Jewel of the Valley: 1 Elizabeth St; (08) 8524 5353. Lochnagar Barossa: 22 Paradale Dr; (08) 8524 5353. Tanunda Caravan & Tourist Park: Barossa Valley Way; (08) 8563 2784. Tanunda Cottages: 157 Murray St; 0418 831 955. Barossa Vineyard Cottages: Lot 575 Bethany Rd, Bethany; 0419 556 449. Treetops Bed & Breakfast: Seppeltsfield Rd, Marananga; (08) 8562 2522.

Barossa wine region The Mediterranean-style climate, varying soils, specialised winemakers and long history (dating back to the 1840s) have created a world-renowned wine region in the Barossa Valley. Nearly all outfits offer cellar-door tastings and sales. Close to Tanunda is the Barossa Small Winemakers Centre, housed in the cellar door at Chateau Tanunda, Basedow Rd, and showcasing the rare and handmade varieties of the Barossa’s small producers. At the Chateau Dorrien Winery Tourism Centre in Barossa Valley Way there is an interesting mural depicting Barossa heritage. Winery map available from visitor centre. For more information see Angaston, Lyndoch and Nuriootpa.

Norm’s Coolies: see performances by a unique breed of sheepdog, Norm’s coolie; 2pm Mon, Wed and Sat; just south on Barossa Valley Way; (08) 8563 2198. Bethany: this pretty village was the first German settlement in the Barossa, and it has a great winery sitting on a hilltop. The creekside picnic area, pioneer cemetery, attractive streetscapes and walking trail along Rifle Range Rd make it well worth a visit; 3 km SE. The Keg Factory: makers of American and French oak kegs, as well as barrel furniture and wine racks; (08) 8563 3012. St Halletts Rd; 4 km SW.

Tumby Bay is a pretty coastal town on the east coast of Eyre Peninsula. Its development was slow – Matthew Flinders discovered the bay in 1802, settlers arrived in the 1840s and the jetty was built in 1874 to ship the grain produce, but still there was no town. It took until the early 1900s for any official settlement to be established. Now the famous long, crescent beach, white sand and blue water attract holiday-makers.

C. L. Alexander National Trust Museum: depicts early pioneer history in an old timber schoolroom; open 10–11am Wed, 2.30–4.30pm Sun or by appt; West Tce; (08) 8688 2760. Rotunda Art Gallery: local art display and a fantastic mural on the outside of the rotunda; open 10am–12pm Mon and Wed or by appt; Tumby Tce; (08) 8688 2678. Excell Blacksmith and Engineering Workshop Museum: original workshop and equipment dating from the early 1900s; open 1.30–4.30pm 4th Sun each month, or by appt; Barraud St; (08) 8688 2101.

Mangrove boardwalk: 70 m walkway with interpretive signs explaining ecology of mangroves; Berryman St. Fishing: from the recreational jetty, beach, rocks or boats (hire and charters available).

Tumby Bay Caravan Park: Tumby Tce; (08) 8688 2208. Cummins Community Caravan Park: 62 Bruce Tce, Cummins; (08) 8676 2011.

Koppio Smithy Museum The early 1900s come to life in this extensive National Trust museum in the Koppio Hills. Consisting of the restored Blacksmith’s Shop (1903), historic log cottage ‘Glenleigh’ (1893) and schoolrooms, the museum houses an eclectic collection of Aboriginal artefacts, early pioneer furniture, firearms and early machinery. Closed Mon; 30 km SW.

Trinity Haven Scenic Drive: travels south from town along the coast and offers scenic coastal views and secluded beaches and bays. Island Lookout Tower and Reserve: views of town, coast and islands. Enjoy a picnic in the reserve; Harvey Dr; 3 km S. Lipson Cove: popular spot for anglers. Walk to the coastal sanctuary on Lipson Island at low tide; 10 km NE. Ponta and Cowleys beaches: fishing catches include snapper and bream; 15 km NE. Moody Tanks: State Heritage–listed water-storage tanks once used to service passing steam trains; 30 km W. Cummins: rich rail heritage celebrated each Apr at the World Championship Kalamazoo Classic; 37 km NW. Port Neill: an old port town with a safe beach for fishing and watersports. Also Ramsay Bicentennial Gardens, and vintage vehicles at Vic and Jill Fauser’s Living Museum. Port Neill Lookout, nearby, provides fantastic views of the coast; 42 km NE. Sir Joseph Banks Group Conservation Park: comprising around 20 islands and reefs, this park is a breeding area for migrating coastal birds and the Australian sea lion colony at Dangerous Reef; boat access is from Tumby Bay, Port Lincoln and 250 m north of Lipson Cove.

In the 1830s the crystal waters of Encounter Bay – and the Southern Ocean beyond – throbbed with the whalers and sealers of the south. Granite Island housed a whaling station, Victor Harbor was its port, and life revolved around the ocean slaughters. Today the whalers and sealers are gone, Granite Island is a recreation park and Victor Harbor is a holiday town. The naming of Encounter Bay comes from the unexpected meeting in the bay between explorers Matthew Flinders and Nicolasy olas Baudin.

South Australian Whale Centre This unique centre focuses on the 25 species of whale and dolphin, and other marine life found in the southern Australian waters, with an aim to educate and conserve these species. Past atrocities are displayed alongside interactive displays and presentations that reveal the wonders of the amazing creatures. Between May and Oct, southern right whales mate and breed in Encounter Bay. The centre offers whale cruises and sighing information, as well as a Whale Information Hotline for the latest sightings (in season) 1900 WHALES (1900 942 537). Open 9.30am–5pm daily (exc Christmas Day); Railway Tce; (08) 8551 0750.

Encounter Coast Discovery Centre: National Trust museum that covers Aboriginal, whaling, settler and recent local history. A museum walk finishes at the Old Customs House, which has period furnishings; open 1–4pm daily; Flinders Pde. Cockle Train: departs from Railway Tce for return journey to Goolwa; bookings 1300 655 991; for more details see Goolwa. Horse-drawn tram: operates daily; (08) 8551 0720; www.horsedrawntram.com.au. Amusement Park: family fun fair on the beach with the state’s historic Ferris wheel, dodgem cars and an inflatable slide; open long weekends and school holidays; the Causeway; 0418 845 540. SteamRanger Heritage Railway: heritage steam and diesel tourist trains run to Port Elliot, Goolwa, Strathalbyn and Mount Barker; phone 1300 655 991; www.steamranger.org.au. Scenic flights: helicopter joy-flights over Victor Harbor, Granite Island, local vineyards and the mouth of the Murray; (08) 8552 8196.

Rotary Art Show: Jan. Coast to Coast Bike Ride and Victor Harbor Triathlon: Mar. Whale Season Opening: June. Whaletime Playtime Festival: July. Rock n Roll Festival: Sept. New Year’s Eve Celebration: Dec.

Anchorage Cafe Restaurant Wine Bar: steaks and seafood; Anchorage Seafront Hotel, 21 Flinders Pde; (08) 8552 5970. eat at whalers: contemporary bayside dining; Whalers Inn Resort, 121 Franklin Pde, Encounter Bay; (08) 8552 4400.

Morgan Park Bed & Breakfast: 1 Shetland Crt; (08) 8552 8781. Victor Harbor Beachfront Holiday Park: 114 Victoria St; (08) 8552 1111. Victor Harbor Holiday and Cabin Park: Bay Rd; (08) 8552 1949. Adare Caravan Park & Holiday Units: 18-38 Wattle Dr, McCracken; (08) 8552 1657. Close Encounters Bed & Breakfast: 69 Whalers Rd, Encounter Bay; (08) 8552 4850. Encounter Lakes Bed & Breakfast: 45 Matthew Flinders Dr, Encounter Bay; (08) 8552 7758. Scenic Encounter Bed &Breakfast: 27 Bolger Way, Encounter Bay; (08) 8552 2043.

Granite Island Recreation Park Granite Island has a long and varied history. It has significance in the Ramindjeri people’s Dreamtime; in 1837 a whaling station was established; and today the island is a recreation park. This history is detailed on the Kaiki Trail, a 1.5 km walk around the island. A highlight is the Below Decks Oceanarium, just off the Screwpile Jetty, with closeup views of marine life and tours daily; at dusk, take a guided Penguin Discovery Tour to see the penguins scuttle in and out of their burrows (all tour bookings (08) 8552 7555). The island is linked to the mainland by a 630 m causeway. Walk or take the horse-drawn tram, the last one remaining in the Southern Hemisphere; tram departs from entrance to Causeway at 10am daily. Tickets available at visitor centre or on the tram.

Hindmarsh River Estuary: peaceful picnic and fishing spot with boardwalk through coastal scrub; 1 km NE. Greenhills Adventure Park: family-fun activities including go-karts, jumping castle and water slide; Waggon Rd; 3.5 km N. Victor Harbor Winery: cellar-door tastings and sales of cool-climate reds, whites and fortified wines; open Wed–Sun; Hindmarsh Valley; 4 km N. Urimbirra Wildlife Park: popular fauna park with a wetland bird sanctuary, crocodile-feeding and children’s farmyard; Adelaide Rd; 5 km N. Big Duck Boat Tours: Spectacular half hour and 1 hour tours taking in Encounter Bay and coastal parts of Victor Harbor. Leaves from Granite Island causeway; 0405 125 312. Nangawooka Flora Reserve: tranquil walks through native bushlands with over 1250 native plant varieties on show; opposite Urimbirra Wildlife Park. The Bluff (Rosetta Head): 500-million-year-old mass of granite, well worth the 100 m climb for the views; 5 km SW. Newland Head Conservation Park: known for its wild surf and coastal vegetation, this park protects the headland and Waitpinga and Parsons beaches, which offer surf-fishing opportunities and beach walks; turn-off 15 km SW. Hindmarsh Falls: pleasant walks and spectacular waterfall (during winter); 15 km NW. Mt Billy Conservation Park: mallee and forest park renowned for its rare orchid species; 18 km NW. Inman Valley: features Glacier Rock, said to be the first recorded discovery of glaciation in Australia; 19 km NW.

Waikerie, the citrus centre of Australia, is surrounded by an oasis of irrigated orchards and vineyards in the midst of the malleescrub country of the Riverland. Owing to its position on clifftops, the area around Waikerie was not a promising settlement. However, in an experiment by the South Australian government in 1894 that attempted to alleviate unemployment and decentralise capital, 281 people were relocated from Adelaide. It was an instant town. Waikerie has beautiful views of the river gums and sandstone cliffs along the Murray River, which is a popular spot for fishing, boating and waterskiing – and the skies above are a glider’s paradise due to the fantastic thermals and flat landscape.

Rain Moth Gallery: local art exhibitions; open 10.30am– 2.30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat; Peake Tce. Waikerie Murray River Queen: unique floating motel, restaurant and cafe; moored near the ferry. Harts Lagoon: wetland area with bird hide; Ramco Rd. Houseboat hire: scenic trips along the Murray; contact visitor centre for details. Bush Safari: camel or 4WD tours to the river and outback country north-east of Waikerie; bookings (08) 8543 2280. Scenic walk: along cliff-top to lookout; northern outskirts of town.

Rotary Food Fair: Mar. Horse and Pony Club Easter Horse Show: Easter. Music on the Murray: odd-numbered years, Apr. Riverland Rock ‘n’ Roll Festival: May. Hit n Miss Tractor Pull: odd-numbered years, Sept.

Waikerie Caravan Park: 49 Peake Tce; (08) 8541 2651. Salters Station: 72 Paisley Rd, Blanchetown; (08) 8540 5023.

Orange Tree Giftmania: local produce sales – including citrus and dried fruits – and souvenirs. Enjoy Murray River views from the viewing platform; Sturt Hwy. Waikerie Gliding Club: offers recreational flights, beginner courses and cross-country training; Waikerie Aerodrome, off Sturt Hwy, east side of town; inquiries (08) 8541 2644. Maize Island Conservation Park: this waterbird reserve has fantastic cliffs and lagoons. Beware of strong currents when swimming; 2 km N. Pooginook Conservation Park: both dense and open mallee country, home to kangaroos, hairy-nosed wombats and the ever-busy mallee fowl; 12 km NE. Stockyard Plain Disposal Basin Reserve: varied plant and birdlife – over 130 bird species identified; key available from visitor centre; 12 km SW. Broken Cliffs: popular fishing spot; Taylorville Rd; 15 km NE. Birds Australia Gluepot Reserve: important mallee area that forms part of the Bookmark Biosphere Reserve (see Renmark). Also significant bird refuge, with over 17 threatened Australian species to be seen on the 14 walking trails; access key from Shell Service Station in Waikerie; 64 km N.

The Farm Shed Museum and Tourist Centre, 50 Moonta Rd, Kadina; (08) 8821 2333 or 1800 654 991; www.yorkepeninsula.com.au y

Vast grain silos greet visitors to Wallaroo, a coastal town and shipping port on the west coast of Yorke Peninsula. The town is an interesting mix of tourism and industry. The safe beaches and excellent fishing prove popular with holiday-makers, while the commercial port controls exports of barley and wheat. Wallaroo exists thanks to a lucky shepherd’s discovery of copper in 1859. Vast deposits were uncovered and soon thousands of Cornish miners arrived. The area boomed until the 1920s, when copper prices dropped and the industry slowly died out. Wallaroo’s buildings and old Cornish-style cottages are a reminder of its colourful past. Wallaroo and nearby towns Moonta and Kadina are part of the ‘Copper Coast’ or ‘Little Cornwall’.

Wallaroo Heritage and Nautical Museum This National Trust museum in Wallaroo’s original 1865 post office features shipwreck displays, maps, charts, model ships and records, as well as local cultural and religious history. Meet George, the unlucky giant squid eaten then recovered from a whale’s belly 30 years ago. Open 10.30am–4pm Mon–Fri, 2–4pm Sat–Sun; Jetty Rd; (08) 8823 3015.

Yorke Peninsula Railway: historical diesel-train journey from Wallaroo to Bute; runs 2nd Sun each month and school holidays; contact visitor centre for details. Ausbulk: informative drive through grain-handling facility; Lydia Tce. Boat hire and charters: for the ultimate gulf-fishing experience. Self-guide historical walk: highlight is the 1865 Hughes chimney stack, which contains over 300 000 bricks and measures more than 7 sq m at its base; brochure available from museum or town hall.

Kernewek Lowender: Cornish festival held in conjunction with Moonta and Kadina; odd-numbered years, May.

The Boatshed Restaurant: waterfront seafood specialists; 1 Jetty Rd; (08) 8823 3455.

Office Beach Caravan Park: 11 Jetty Rd; (08) 8823 2722. Wallaroo North Beach Tourist Park: 1 Pamir Crt; (08) 8823 2531.

Travellers note: To avoid the extra driving distance to the Eyre Peninsula, Sea SA runs a ferry service between Wallaroo and Lucky Bay 4 times a day on weekdays, and twice a day on weekends. Bookings (08) 8823 0777.

Whyalla, northern gateway to Eyre Peninsula, has grown from the small settlement of Hummock Hill to the largest provincial city in South Australia. It has become known for its heavy industry since iron ore was found in the 1890s around Iron Knob and the steel works opened in 1964. Whyalla also has an interesting natural attraction. Each year, from May to August, an incredible number of cuttlefish spawn on the rocky coast just north – a must-see for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. The city is modern and offers safe beaches, excellent fishing and boating.

Whyalla Maritime Museum The central attraction is HMAS Whyalla, a 650-tonne corvette, the largest permanently land-locked ship in Australia. It was the first ship built in the BHP shipyards. Guided tours of the ship are included in the entry price and run on the hour 11am–3pm Apr–Oct, 10am–2pm Nov–Mar. The lives of the 4 wartime corvettes built by BHP are documented, as are histories of the shipbuilding industry and maritime heritage of Spencer Gulf; Lincoln Hwy; (08) 8645 8900.

Mt Laura Homestead Museum: National Trust museum featuring the original homestead with progressive city-history displays, period furnishings in the 1914 Gay St Cottage, and the Telecommunications Museum; (08) 8645 7644; open 10am– 12pm Mon–Fri, 2–4pm Sun; Ekblom St. Tanderra Craft Village: art and craft shops, market and tearooms; open 10am–4pm last weekend each month; next to Maritime Museum; (08) 8644 0105. Whyalla Wetlands: park and wetlands area with walking trails and a picnic/barbecue area; Lincoln Hwy. Foreshore and marina: safe beach, jetty for recreational fishing, picnic/barbecue area, access to Ada Ryan Gardens, and a marina with boatlaunching facilities. Ada Ryan Gardens: mini-zoo with picnic facilities under shady trees; Cudmore Tce. Murray Cod Tour: see a fully operational inland freshwater aquaculture venture, and learn about recycling water and the various growth stages of the Murray cod. Closed footwear required; book at visitor centre. Steelworks Tour: 2 hr guided tour explains steelmaking process; departs 9.30am Mon, Wed and Fri; book at visitor centre. Hummock Hill Lookout: views of city, gulf, steel works and coast from WW II observation post; Queen Elizabeth Dr. Flinders and Freycinet Lookout: Farrel St; Whyalla Visitor Guide from visitor centre; (08) 8648 0048.

Australian Snapper Championship: Easter. Whyalla Show: family activities, rides and stalls; Aug.

Sunset Bistro: relaxed family dining, with a reputation for serving the ‘Big Mans 1 kg steak’; Lincoln Hwy; (08) 8645 7688. Watersedge Restaurant: offering top quality local produce; Watson Tce; (08) 8645 8877.

Discovery Holiday Parks – Whyalla Foreshore: Broadbent Tce; (08) 8645 7474. Whyalla Caravan Park: Cnr Mullaquana and Horseshoe rds, Mullaquana; (08) 8645 9357.

Whyalla Conservation Park: 30 min walking trail through typical semi-arid flora and over Wild Dog Hill; 10 km N off Lincoln Hwy. Port Bonython and Point Lowly: this area of coast offers beautiful views of Spencer Gulf, fishing from rocks, and dolphin sightings. Lowly Beach is a popular swimming beach and the Freycinet Trail is a scenic drive from just before Port Bonython along Fitzgerald Bay to Point Douglas (parts are gravel); 34 km E. Iron Knob: a mining town with museum and mine lookout tours (depart from the museum at 10am and 2pm Mon–Fri); (08) 8646 2129; 53 km NW.

McLaren Vale Visitors Centre, Main Rd, McLaren Vale; (08) 8323 9944 or 1800 628 410; www.mclarenvale.info

The historic town of Willunga grew rapidly around the slate quarries, which drove the town’s economy until the late 1800s. Fortunately, by that time Willunga already had a thriving new industry – almonds. The town sits at the southern edge of the Fleurieu wine region and is surrounded by farmlands and olive groves. Its name is derived from the Aboriginal word ‘willa-unga’, meaning ‘the place of green trees’.

Willunga Courthouse Museum: National Trust museum with local history displays in the original 1855 courtroom, cells and stables; guided ‘Willunga Walks and Talks’ tours; open 11am– 4pm Tues, 1–5pm weekends; High St; (08) 8556 2195. Quarry: operated for 60 years (1842–1902), now a National Trust site; Delabole Rd. Historical walk: self-guide walk featuring historic pug cottages, colonial architecture and an Anglican church with an Elizabethan bronze bell; brochure from museum.

Willunga Farmers Market: Hill St; Sat mornings. Willunga Quarry Market: country market with local produce and crafts; Aldinga Rd; 2nd Sat each month. Almond Blossom Festival: running since 1970, celebrates the blooming of almond trees; July. Fleurieu Folk Festival: Oct.

Fino Restaurant: rustic regional cuisine; 8 Hill St; (08) 8556 4488. Victory Hotel: p opular pub and cellar; Main South Rd, Sellicks Hill; (08) 8556 3083.

Blue Grape Vineyard Accommodation: Lot 6 Newman Close, Willunga South; (08) 8556 4078. Mt Compass Caravan Park: Heysen Blvd, Mount Compass; (08) 8556 8600.

Fleurieu wine region With vineyards covering just about every other part of the Fleurieu Peninsula, including McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek, it is not surprising that they eventually crept southwards. Critics believe this is a region to watch, with a climate conducive to vines and some high-quality wines already being produced. Two eco-sensitive wineries have cellar doors located near Mt Compass: Minko Wines makes wonderful merlot rose, and Parri Estate produces quality white wines such as viognier chardonnay.

Mt Magnificent Conservation Park: explore virtually untouched rocky landscapes and vegetation popular for picnics and scenic walks. The highlight is the walk to the Mt Magnificent summit for coastal views; 12 km SE. Mt Compass: a small farming town featuring the Wetlands Boardwalk and many farms open for viewing and sales, offering both primary products and gourmet food. Australia’s only Cow Race is held here each Jan/Feb; 14 km S. Fleurieu Big Shed: local produce, art and craft sales; 15 km S. Kyeema Conservation Park: completely burnt out in the 1983 Ash Wednesday fires and then again in the fires of 1994 and 2001, this park is evidence of nature’s ability to constantly regenerate. It is home to over 70 species of birdlife and offers good hiking and camping. Part of the Heysen Trail passes through it; 14 km NE.

Robert Blinman had the foresight to build an inn, called the Roundwood Hotel, at the base of Horrocks Pass in 1861, and soon the Cobb & Co coaches were stopping there on their passenger routes. The town was built around the first hotel, and before long the farming community was thriving. Originally named Beautiful Valley by European explorers, the name was changed to Wilmington in 1876, although the original name still persists in many local establishments. Today the town retains much of its old-time feel and is renowned for its stone buildings.

Wilmington Hotel: built around 1876, the hotel is one of the town’s oldest buildings and was first called The Globe Hotel. Original Cobb & Co coach stables are at the rear of the building; Main North Rd. Mt Maria Walking Trail: 2 km walking trail starting from town leads to vantage point over Wilmington; brochure available from general store.

Spring Creek Mine Drive: 24 km scenic loop beginning south of town, passing mountain and farm scenery and an old copper mine, now the town’s water supply; brochure from general store. Horrocks Pass and Hancocks Lookout: this historic pass was named after explorer John Horrocks who traversed the pass in 1846. Hancocks Lookout, at the highest point of the pass, offers magnificent views to Spencer Gulf; 8 km W off road to Port Augusta. Mt Remarkable National Park: 13 km S; see Melrose. Winninowie Conservation Park: coastal park of creeks and samphire flats, home to abundant birdlife; 26 km SW. Hammond: historic ghost town; 26 km NE. Bruce: historic railway town featuring 1880s architecture; 35 km N. Carrieton: historic buildings and Yanyarrie Whim Well in town. A rodeo is held here each Dec; 56 km NE. See Aboriginal carvings a further 9 km along Belton Rd.

Wilpena consists of a resort and caravan/camping park on the edge of Wilpena Pound, in Flinders Ranges National Park. In 1902 the Hill family, wheat farmers, built a homestead inside the pound, but abandoned it after a flood washed away the access road in 1914. The pound is a vast natural amphitheatre surrounded by peaks that change colour with the light, and is a fantastic destination for bushwalking.

Wilpena Pound Resort: partly powered by the largest solar-power system in the Southern Hemisphere (viewing area accessed by a walking trail). The visitor centre at the resort has extensive information on 4WD and organised tours, self-guide drives, scenic flights, bushwalking and hiking; (08) 8648 0004.

Wilpena Under the Stars: black-tie dinner and dance to raise funds for the Royal Flying Doctor Service; Mar. Tastes of the Outback: Apr. Flinders Ranges Event Program: events run in autumn and spring, including guided walks, tours and cultural activities; details from visitor centre.

The Woolshed Restaurant: rustic outback theme; Rawnsley Park; (08) 8648 0126.

Flinders Ranges National Park For thousands of years the ancient landscapes of the Flinders Ranges were home to the Adnyamathanha people – the ‘people of the rocks’. Their Muda (Dreamtime) stories tell of the creation of the slopes and gorges that ripple across the landscape for over 400 km, from south-east of Port Augusta to north of Arkaroola. In the 1850s stock runs were established at Arkaba, Wilpena and Aroona. Foreign plant and animal species were introduced and the natural balance of the ranges was altered. Within 50 years of European settlement many endemic animals had been pushed to extinction. Today conservationists are trying to recover the natural balance of the area, and have had success in the recovery of yellow-footed rock wallabies. The central ranges are a fabulous place for hikers. There are 17 walks and hikes to choose from and the choice is difficult. All provide a different historical, geological or scenic look at the ranges. For a look into early European settlement take the 5.4 km return Hills Homestead Walk into the extraordinary natural rock formation of Wilpena Pound. Impressive rock paintings depicting the creation of the ranges can be seen on the Arkaroo Rock Hike (3 km loop track). And for nature lovers there is the Bunyeroo Gorge Hike, a 7.5 km return trail that follows the gorge and reveals fantastic wildlife and rock formations. There are also driving tours that reveal some of the park’s most spectacular scenery. The popular Brachina Gorge Geological Trail is a 20 km drive that details the long physical history of the ranges, from when the hills were layers of sediment beneath an ocean, to when they were compressed and pushed up into the shape of mountains. Look out for the yellow-footed rock wallaby in the rocky upper slopes of this beautiful gorge. All the roads north of Wilpena are unsealed, but are generally 2WD accessible. Among all of this, at Wilpena, is some of the best accommodation and facilities north of Adelaide. Drop into the Wilpena Pound Visitor Information Centre for a park guide, or to book scenic flights and other tours; (08) 8648 0048.

Sacred Canyon: Aboriginal rock carvings and paintings; 19 km E. Rawnsley Park Station: camping and holiday-unit accommodation, scenic flights, horseriding and 4WD tours; (08) 8648 0030; 20 km S on Hawker Rd. Moralana Scenic Drive: 22 km route between Elder Range and south-west wall of Wilpena Pound with lookouts and picnic spots en route; drive starts 25 km S.

Woomera and its testing range were established in 1947 as a site for launching British experimental rockets during the Cold War era. The town was a restricted area until 1982. The Woomera Prohibited Area remains in force today and is still one of the largest land-based rocket ranges in the world. Until 2003, Woomera was the site of a controversial detention centre for refugees. The detainees are now held at the Baxter Detention Centre near Port Augusta.

Woomera Heritage and Visitor Information Centre: provides a detailed history of the area through videos, exhibitions, rocket relics and photographic displays. It also includes a bowling alley. Tours of the Rocket Range can be booked and depart here; Dewrang Ave. Missile Park: open-air defence display of rockets, aircraft and weapons; Cnr Banool and Dewrang aves. Baker Observatory: viewing the night sky through a computer-controlled telescope; contact visitor centre for details.

The enormous silos in Wudinna are indicative of the town’s major grain industry, predominantly wheat and barley, grown here since the first pastoral lease was granted in 1861. Wudinna was proclaimed a town in 1916 and has since grown as a service centre to the Eyre Peninsula. A little travelling in the surrounding countryside will reveal unusually shaped granite outcrops – the area is known as granite country.

Gawler Ranges Cultural Centre: dedicated to the exhibition of artwork with a ranges theme; Ballantyne St.

Gawler Ranges National Park This rugged national park offers fantastic gorge and rocky-outcrop scenery, spectacular when the spring wildflowers are in bloom. There are no marked trails, but highlights of drive tours include the Organ Pipes, a large and unique formation of volcanic rhyolite, the Kolay Mirica Falls and Yandinga Gorge. Some areas are accessible by 2WD, but 4WD is generally recommended. Roads may be impassable after rain. Guided tours into the ranges are offered by 2 operators: Gawler Ranges Wilderness Safaris (1800 243 343) and Nullarbor Traveller (1800 816 858). 40 km N.

Wudinna Granite Trail: signposted 25 km tourist drive to all major rock formations in the area. Mt Polda Rock Recreation Reserve: walking trail for excellent birdwatching with views from the top of Polda Rock; 7 km NE. Mt Wudinna Recreation Reserve: the mountain is thought to be the second-largest granite outcrop in the Southern Hemisphere. At its base is a picnic area, a 30 min return interpretive walking trail, and original stone walls used as water catchments. Enjoy scenic views at the mountain’s summit. On the road to the reserve look out for Turtle Rock; 10 km NE. Ucontitchie Hill: isolated and unique granite formations, similar to Kangaroo Island’s Remarkable Rocks; 32 km S. Minnipa: home to the Agricultural Centre, which provides invaluable research into sustainable dryland farming. Nearby are granite formations of geological significance, including Yarwondutta Rock (2 km N), Tcharkuldu Rock (4 km E) and the wave-like formation of Pildappa Rock (15 km N); 37 km NW. Koongawa: memorial to explorer John Charles Darke; 50 km E.

Since the first land grant in 1842, Yankalilla has been the centre of a thriving farming industry. It is a growing settlement just inland from the west coast of the Fleurieu Peninsula, but it still retains its old country flavour. It has even adopted the slogan ‘Yankalilla Bay – you’ll love what we haven’t done to the place’. In recent times it has seen an influx of visitors keen to see the apparition at Our Lady of Yankalilla Shrine. The Blessed Virgin Mary was first sighted here in 1996.

Yankalilla District Historical Museum: local history and interpretive trail; open 1–4pm Sun; Main South Rd. Anglican Church: historic and known for apparition of Mary; Main St.

Leafy Sea Dragon Festival: arts and cultural festival; odd-numbered years, Apr. Yankalilla Show: Oct long weekend.

Beachside Caravan Park: Cape Jervis Rd, Normanville; (08) 8558 2458. Corinium Roman Villa: 2 Nosworthy Rd, Inman Valley; 0415 694 013. Jetty Caravan Park Normanville: Jetty Rd, Normanville; (08) 8558 2038. Second Valley Caravan Park: 2 Park Ave, Second Valley; (08) 8598 4054. Yankalilla Bay Homestead B&B: 39 Jetty Rd, Normanville; 0417 583 222.

Deep Creek Conservation Park Take one of the many walks along rugged coastal cliffs, tranquil creeks, majestic forests and scenic waterfalls. Walks range from easy and short to more challenging long-distance hikes. Keep an eye out for the western grey kangaroos at dusk on the Aaron Creek Hiking Trail or drop a line at Blowhole Creek and Boat Harbour beaches. Permits are required in the park (self-registration). 26 km SW.

Normanville: a seaside town with beach and heritage-listed sand dunes. Shipwrecks are popular with divers; 3 km W. Myponga Conservation Park: popular bushwalking and birdwatching park; 9 km NE. Myponga: a historic town with fantastic views from the Myponga Reservoir; 14 km NE. Second Valley: a peaceful picnic spot with a jetty for fishing; 17 km SW. Rapid Bay: this seaside town offers excellent fishing and diving opportunities. Sightings of the endangered leafy sea dragon in the bay make diving a must for any enthusiast; 27 km SW. Talisker Conservation Park: an interpretive trail explains the old silver-mine workings in the park; 30 km SW. Cape Jervis: breathtaking sea and coastal views on entering town. Vehicular ferries to Kangaroo Island depart from here, and it is also the starting point of the 1200 km Heysen Trail (bushwalking trail) to the Flinders Ranges. Morgan’s and Fishery beaches nearby have good fishing; 35 km S.

SYP Telecentre, Yorketown or Harvest Corner Visitor Information Centre, 29 Main St; (08) 8853 2600 or 1800 202 445; www.yorkepeninsula.com.au

Yorketown is a small rural community at the southern end of Yorke Peninsula. The surrounding landscape is dotted with many inland salt lakes, some of which are still mined. In the late 1840s farmers were eager to take up land here as it was prime cropproducing land. The town was settled in 1872 and has remained an important service centre on the peninsula since.

Courthouse Photographic Display: photographs of the area’s pioneering days; open Fri mornings or by appt.

Marion Bay Tavern: relaxed beachside meals; 1 Stenhouse Bay Rd, Marion Bay; (08) 8854 4141. y

Yorketown Caravan Park: Memorial Dr; (08) 8852 1731. Marion Bay Caravan Park: 17 Willyama Dr, Marion Bay; (08) 8854 4094. Point Turton Caravan Park: Bayview Rd, Point Turton; (08) 8854 5222.

Innes National Park In summer, soak up the sun at beaches or bays with excellent (but challenging) surf breaks at Chinamans Reef, Pondalowie Bay and West Cape. In winter, keep an eye out at Stenhouse Bay and Cape Spencer for migrating southern right whales. Diving is popular, especially near the Gap, an eroded gap in a 60 m high cliff. Other activities include beach and jetty fishing, and walking on coastal and inland tracks. Accommodation is something special in this park – enjoy fabulous coastal camping in the mallee scrub or stay at the heritage lodge in the old mining township of Inneston. The annual Yorke Surfing Classic is held here each Oct. (08) 8854 3200; 81 km SW.

Ballywire Farm and Tearooms: Experience a fully working farm by joining in farming activities. Tearooms and a licensed restaurant on-site, as well as farm produce for sale, interactive displays and a games area for kids; open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun (daily school holidays); (08) 8852 1053; 11km S. Bublacowie Military Museum: personal stories, memorabilia and documents, and also a craft centre; closed Mon; 25 km N. Corny Point: coastal town featuring a lighthouse and lookout, and fishing and camping; 69 km NW. Daly Head: great surfing spot with nearby blowhole; 75 km W. Marion Bay: popular with surfers and visitors to nearby Innes National Park; 79 km SW.

Leather boots, R. M. Williams Outback Heritage Museum, Adelaide This iconic bushman began making saddlery and leather boots while camping in South Australia’s Gammon Ranges. 5 Percy St, Prospect. See Adelaide

Beerenberg strawberry jam, Hahndorf Now world famous, but the original signature product can still be bought from the pioneer farm. Mt Barker Rd, Hahndorf. See Hahndorf

Ligurian honey, Kangaroo Island The purest organic honey of its type in the world. See Kingscote

Glass art, Jam Factory, Adelaide Pick up a finely crafted, unique piece of glass or ceramic art from an emerging or established artist. See JamFactory

Wine, Barossa and Clare valleys Take home some cases of wine from two of Australia’s eminent wine regions, particularly famous for shiraz and riesling. See Lyndoch and Clare

Jewellery, Zu design, Adelaide Arcade, Adelaide Distinctive contemporary objects of adornment from Adelaide artists. See Adelaide

Shiraz-filled chocolates, David Medlow, McLaren Vale Delightfully rich shiraz liqueur encased in dark chocolate. McLarens on the Lake, Kangarilla Rd, McLaren Vale. See McLaren Vale

Premium oysters, Coffin Bay Pure from the nutrient-rich water currents of the Southern Ocean. See Coffin Bay

King George whiting, South Australian waters Sweet, delicate and always fresh from stores around the state.

Opals, Coober Pedy Although available around the country, purchase these beautiful stones directly from this mining town. See Coober Pedy