Sourdough on the Rise: How to Confidently Make Whole Grain Sourdough Breads at Home

Caramelized Apples and Sausage

Add some whole fruit and protein to your flapjacks to round out the breakfast. Choose a sausage without herbs or hot spices, which could clash with the other flavors of the dish. Sweet but firm apples such as Cameo, Pink Lady, Honeycrisp, Braeburn, or Gala work well.

Hands-on time: 10 to 15 minutes | Makes 4 servings

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium apple, sliced

1 tablespoon brown sugar

8 (4- to 6-inch) pork or chicken link sausages

¼ cup white wine

Heat a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the butter. When the butter begins to bubble and sizzle, add the apple slices. Allow the apples to brown, turning frequently. Turn the heat down to medium-low, sprinkle the sugar over the apples, and allow the sugar to caramelize onto the apples for 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the sausages and wine. Turn the heat up to medium, and brown the sausages as you simultaneously reduce the wine. This will take about 5 minutes. Continue moving the sausages and apples so that the sausage links brown on all sides.

Once the sausages are browned and the wine has reduced into the mixture, there will be a syrupy liquid around the sausages. Remove from the heat and serve immediately.

Buttermilk Sourdough Biscuits

Biscuits were invented as a solution for an easy-to-store, easy-to-carry, long-lasting food for arduous journeys at sea. To update the biscuits and make them more nutritious, digestible, and flavorful, a fermentation period using sourdough and whole grain flours is used. A 1:1 combination of yogurt and water can be substituted for the buttermilk.

Hands-on time: 20 to 25 minutes | Hands-off time: 8 to 10 hours | Makes 12 biscuits

For the sponge

4.5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole wheat pastry flour, divided

½ cup sourdough starter

1 cup buttermilk

2 tablespoons honey

For the dough

6.75 ounces (about 1½ cups) whole wheat pastry flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

3 tablespoons cold butter

3 tablespoons cold lard or coconut oil

2 to 4 tablespoons unbleached white bread flour

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the whole wheat pastry flour, starter, buttermilk, and honey. Whisk to mix well. Cover with a plastic bag and a dish towel and allow the mixture to ferment at room temperature, around 70 degrees F, for 8 to 10 hours.

BUILDING THE DOUGH

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a separate medium mixing bowl, combine the remaining 6.75 ounces of whole wheat pastry flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Cut or grate the butter into smaller pieces. Add the butter and lard to the flour mixture and, using a pastry cutter or fork, incorporate the fat into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. This can also be done in a food processor by pulsing the mixture several times. (More equipment to clean up, though!)

Add the flour and fat mixture to the sponge. Combine with a mixing spoon. Once it is too difficult to stir, flour your hands and quickly fold to combine until a soft dough forms. The dough should be bouncy and pliable, but not stick to your hands. If it does, add the unbleached white flour a tablespoon at a time until the dough comes together easily.

NOTE: At this point, the dough can be put in a sealed container and chilled in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to warm up for 10 to 20 minutes before cutting. Preheat your oven while the dough is coming to room temperature and being formed into biscuits. Putting really cold dough into the oven will lower the oven temperature and require a longer baking time.

MAKING THE BISCUITS

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface. Pat the dough into a rectangle about ¾ inch thick. Fold the dough into thirds, like a letter, and then, using a rolling pin, gently roll it into a 10-by-7-inch rectangle about ¾ inch thick. Using a pastry scraper or knife, cut the dough into six equal-size rectangles. Cut each rectangle diagonally, creating twelve triangles. For sliders or sandwiches, where a round shape is preferred, roll the dough out to ¾ inch thick and use a 2½- to 3-inch biscuit cutter to make rounds.

Place the triangular or round shapes on the prepared baking sheet. Bake the biscuits for 10 to 12 minutes, until lightly browned on both sides. Serve after biscuits are cool enough to handle, but still warm.

Vanilla Rum Apple Butter

My unofficial survey reveals apple butter as the favorite spread for biscuits. I concur! Be sure to taste the apples you have selected before you begin. In the fall, when apples are in season, they will have a bright, sweet flavor. But as they are kept in storage, they begin to lose some sweetness. Sometimes that means a little extra sugar is needed in apple recipes. It’s okay to leave the peels on the apples if they are organic (more fiber).

Hands-on time: 15 to 20 minutes | Hands-off time: 6 to 16 hours
Makes 4 to 5 half-pint jars

4 pounds (10 to 12 medium) apples, cored and cut into ½-inch-thick slices

1 cup brown sugar

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

½ cup spiced rum

In a medium to large slow cooker, add the apples, sugar, lemon juice, salt, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg. Put the lid on the cooker. Set the cooker to high and leave for 5 hours, or to low and leave for 10 hours. Stirring occasionally is optional.

Once the apples are very soft, browned, and juicy, unplug the slow cooker and use an immersion blender to puree the mixture until very smooth. Next, add the vanilla and rum and stir them in. Then plug the cooker in again, leave the lid off, and set to low. Stir occasionally (not optional this time). After about an hour the mixture should be reduced and thicker, almost like pudding.

Scoop the apple butter into clean ½-pint jars. Once cool, put the lids and bands on the jars, and refrigerate. Apple butter should keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks. For longer storage you can process the sealed jars using typical canning methods (see Preserving the Jam on this page).

Jamaican Jerk Braised Pork Sliders with Mango Cream Sauce

Purchasing meat of any kind deserves consideration. We want to be aware, to the best of our knowledge, of how the animal was raised. Small ranching operations devoted to humane treatment and nutritious feeding of animals are popping up all over the country. Seek out pork producers that allow their pigs access to the outdoors (the carbon in soil is how pigs keep their innards clean). Use online resources to find a producer in your area or seek one out at a local farmers’ market. Start a conversation. Conscientious ranchers are usually delighted to describe their practices.

Hands-on time: 20 to 30 minutes | Hands-off time: 12 hours
Makes 4 to 5 cups pulled pork (enough for 12 sliders)

For the brine

2½ to 3 pounds pork butt

4 cups water

¼ cup brown sugar

6 to 8 tablespoons kosher salt

For the rub

1 tablespoon whole cane or brown sugar

2 teaspoons ground paprika

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

10 to 12 turns of freshly ground black pepper

For the braise

2 to 3 tablespoons high-heat vegetable oil, divided

2 cups light beer

12 Buttermilk Sourdough Biscuits (this page)

Mango Cream Sauce (recipe follows)

BRINING THE MEAT

Remove any butcher’s twine or netting from the meat. Notice the large white landmasses on the geography of the meat. The fat is part of the shoulder of the pig. Curiously, it is called a “butt” when it actually comes from the front of the animal. If there are fat areas that are extra thick and extra wide, it’s okay to trim some off. But not all. The fat gives the meat flavor.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the water and sugar; stir to dissolve. Add 6 tablespoons of salt for a 2½-pound piece of pork, 8 tablespoons for a 3-pound piece. Gently lower the pork into the brine, cover, and let the meat bathe overnight or for 6 to 8 hours. Room temperature is okay if it is cool in your home (under 70 degrees F); otherwise, refrigerate.

BRAISING THE MEAT

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.

Remove the pork from the brine (which can be discarded) and gently pat the meat with a cloth or paper towel. In a small bowl, mix the sugar, paprika, thyme, allspice, red pepper, cloves, cinnamon, black pepper, and sugar together. Rub the meat with a teaspoon or two of the vegetable oil. The oil will help the spices adhere to the flesh. Then rub on the spice mixture. Take your time and coat all of the flesh evenly.

In a large Dutch oven, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat, and then add the rubbed meat. Turn the meat frequently until all sides are slightly seared. Add the beer to the browned meat, cover the pot, and place it in the oven for 5 to 6 hours. When you check it, make sure the pork falls apart easily when pulled with a fork.

Let the cooked meat rest for about an hour, then place it on a cutting board and pull the strands apart with two forks or with clean hands into a tender, tasty pile. Use Buttermilk Sourdough Biscuits, baked in rounds, as the bread for your sliders. Slice each biscuit in half. Put a dab of Mango Cream Sauce on both sides. Use about ⅓ cup of pork for each biscuit. Serve immediately.

Other condiments for the sliders (equally awesome) include Cilantro Chimichurri (this page) and Latin American Curtido Kraut (this page).

MANGO CREAM SAUCE

If you choose a very ripe mango (soft and sweet), you can eliminate one-half or more of the sugar in the recipe, but if the mango is a little firm, you will need all of it.

Hands-on time: 10 minutes | Makes about ¾ cup

1 cup cubed ripe mango (1 large or 2 small mangoes)

¼ cup sour cream

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, divided

1 teaspoon sugar, divided

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

After you cut the mango, taste a piece. This will inform you how much sugar you need to add in the recipe. In a blender, add the mango, sour cream, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, ½ teaspoon of the sugar, and the salt. Blend until smooth. Taste the mixture. Add more lime juice and sugar, a little at a time, until the taste seems right to you. Serve immediately, or store in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

NOTE: To turn this sauce into salad dressing, add 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil and 1 tablespoon of rice vinegar to the mixture!

Handmade Masa Sourdough Tortillas

Instead of being just a holder for goodies, these tortillas are the goodies! Avoid confusing masa harina with cornmeal or corn flour. Masa harina is made using a process called nixtamalization, where the maize is soaked and cooked in an alkaline solution. Beyond liberating niacin, the process softens the grain so it can be used to make pliable tortillas. These instructions require a tortilla press, but if you don’t have one, the balls of dough can be flattened to a disk shape and then rolled into a thin circle with a rolling pin.

Hands-on time: 20 minutes | Hands-off time: 8 to 12 hours
Makes 10 to 12 tortillas (5 to 7 inches in diameter)

1 cup masa harina

5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole wheat flour

4 tablespoons lard or coconut oil

½ cup sourdough starter

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 cup lukewarm water, divided (plus more as needed)

2 teaspoons unsalted butter (optional)

PREPARING THE DOUGH FOR FERMENTATION

In a large mixing bowl, add the masa harina, whole wheat flour, and lard or oil. Using a pastry cutter or fork, incorporate the fat into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal, similar to wet sand.

Add the starter, salt, and ½ cup of the water and stir. Begin adding the remaining water a teaspoon at a time until the dough begins to collect easily into a ball. Be careful not to let the dough get too wet, as this will make the tortillas harder to press and transfer. Err on the side of less moisture.

Pick up the dough ball and begin working it in your hands. Transforming the ball into a pliable, smooth dough will take 5 to 6 minutes. No less. Corn does not contain gluten, so the dough will never become stretchy like bread dough. Start by picking the ball up with both hands and just squeezing it. Turn it and squeeze it, turn and squeeze, like you are softening cold play dough. After 3 minutes, the dough will become more homogeneous and stop leaving tiny crumbles on your fingers. At this point you can put the ball on the counter or a board and push and fold, push and fold, or simply continue working it in your hands (good relaxation therapy!) for 2 to 3 more minutes. Place the dough in a container with a lid at room temperature, around 70 degrees F, to ferment for 8 to 12 hours.

MAKING THE TORTILLAS

Heat a cast-iron griddle or skillet over medium-high heat. While the pan is warming up, divide the dough into ten to twelve equal-size pieces. Roll each piece into a 1½-inch ball (about the size of a ping-pong ball). Line both halves of a tortilla press with waxed paper. Place one ball slightly off center toward the hinge of the press and flatten into a 5- to 7-inch disk. Gently peel the tortilla from the waxed paper and put it on the heated griddle or skillet. Cook for about 30 seconds on each side. Tortillas will get a brown-speckled look on both surfaces. Repeat with the remaining dough. You can simultaneously cook as many tortillas as your skillet or griddle will allow. Tortillas can be pre-pressed and stacked between pieces of parchment paper until ready to cook.

Rub each tortilla with a dab of butter and cover with a cloth (or wrap the tortillas in a large sheet of foil). Keep them warm until time for serving. Tortillas can be made up to 2 hours ahead. Rewarm before serving.

Cilantro Chimichurri

Chimichurri is a traditional Argentinian sauce that is typically made with flat-leaf Italian parsley and vinegar, and is served over grilled meat or fish. Substituting cilantro and lime gives the condiment even more versatility, making an exciting sauce for tortillas, tacos, and other Latin American fare. I’m addicted to it, so I make big batches and freeze backup jars. Just in case.

Hands-on time: 10 minutes | Makes ½ cup

1 large bunch cilantro (about 3 ounces)

2 to 3 cloves garlic

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Pinch of dried red pepper flakes

½ teaspoon fine sea salt, divided

1 teaspoon unbleached white sugar, divided

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

If the root ends of the cilantro stems are a little gnarly, nip those off of the whole bunch with one cut. Fill the sink or a large bowl with cool water. Remove any rubber bands or ties from your cilantro and plunge it into the water. Cilantro can hide dirt in the middle of the bunch near the stems, so open the bouquet up into the water. Grab the stems and shake off the excess liquid, then set the leaves on a dish towel to absorb any clinging water. Pat the bunch a few times with the towel.

In a food processor, add the cilantro, garlic, lime juice, cumin, red pepper, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and ½ teaspoon of the sugar and pulse it twenty times. Gradually drizzle the extra-virgin olive oil into the machine, between pulses. The mixture will emulsify. Get a spoon, open the machine, and have a little taste. Decisions must be made. Is there enough salt? Not quite? Start by adding another pinch. If the mixture is too tart, tame it by adding the remaining ½ teaspoon of sugar and blend again. Adjust the salt, lime, red pepper, or sugar, adding a pinch at a time, to make the sauce exactly to your liking.

Store the chimichurri in a small jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, or place tablespoon amounts in an ice cube tray and, once frozen, store the cubes in a sealed bag or container in the freezer for several months.

CHILI CINNAMON BEER BRAISED PORK

Combine Cilantro Chimichurri and Handmade Masa Sourdough Tortillas with some flavorful protein to fill your tacos. Follow the directions on this page for Jamaican Jerk Braised Pork as written, but replace the Jamaican rub with the following. Esta listo.

Chili Cinnamon Rub

2 tablespoons whole cane or brown sugar

1 tablespoon ground chili powder

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Latin American Curtido Kraut

Keep this fantastic probiotic condiment around to put on breakfast tacos, lunch tacos, dinner tacos, and not just tacos (eggs, fish, sandwiches). Yes, it’s that good.

Hands-on time: 15 minutes | Hands-off time: 8 to 10 days | Makes 4 to 6 cups

1 (2-pound) head green cabbage

4 teaspoons kosher salt, or adjusted amount per weight of cabbage

1 medium white onion

1 large or 2 medium carrots

2 jalapeño peppers

1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano

2 teaspoons dried oregano

Weigh the head of cabbage at the store or at home and note the amount.

Deconstructing a head of cabbage offers a quiet sense of accomplishment. Begin by halving the cabbage north to south, so you are cutting through the core. Notice the thick, white, V-shaped core. Follow the outside of the V with your blade and cut away the core from each half. Then cut each half lengthwise so you have four wedges. Separate each wedge into two parts by pulling out the inside section. Now you have eight manageable pieces. Flatten each one down with your palm. Aim your knife perpendicular to the triangular-shaped stack of leaves and, starting at the apex, slice off ⅛-inch ribbons. Repeat this with all of the chunks of cabbage. Put all of the cut cabbage into a large mixing bowl.

What did your cabbage weigh? Add a teaspoon of salt per ½ pound of whole cabbage weight. Adjust the salt according to this ratio if your cabbage weighed more or less than 2 pounds. Sprinkle the salt over the shredded cabbage.

Next, prepare the other vegetables. Slice the onion into thin half-moons. Grate the carrot on the large holes of a box grater. Bisect the jalapeños and scoop each half with a spoon to remove the pith and seeds. Finely dice the peppers. Put the onions, carrots, jalapeños, and fresh oregano into a second medium-size bowl.

The pre-salting will have given the cabbage a chance to begin releasing water (weeping). With clean hands, massage the cabbage. Grab hard, as if these were tight shoulder muscles that needed relaxing. Move through all the cabbage, making sure each shred meets your grip. Feel the crunchiness soften. Massage for at least 3 minutes.

Add the prepared vegetables and the dried oregano to the cabbage and mix together with your hands. Place the mixed vegetables in a fermentation vessel (a 1-gallon wide-mouth glass cookie jar or a large ceramic crock work well; two wide-mouth quart jars work too). Use your fist to compress the mixture into the bottom of the vessel. Add a little at a time, pushing down hard after each handful of vegetables goes in, compacting the vegetables and releasing their juices.

The goal is to submerge the vegetables in their own brine, which is done by applying even more compression to the top of the mixture. If using a ceramic crock, you can place a small plate directly on top of the mix, then a weight on top of the plate (a 1-quart jar filled with water works as a weight; so does a clean rock!). If using wide-mouth quart jars, place a sealed half-pint jar filled with water on top of the vegetables to create more compression. Cover the crock or jars with a clean dish towel to keep out dust and such, but allow air.

Make sure the crock or jars are on a counter or table that is part of your normal walking path through the house. Pay the vegetables several visits during the next half day, pushing hard on whatever is weighing down the vegetables. Within 8 to 10 hours, there should be enough extracted liquid in the container to cover the veggies completely.

Let the kraut percolate on the counter, covered with a cloth, for at least 7 to 10 days, then taste it. Want it tangier, krautier? Let it go longer. Like it the way it is? Pack the kraut into jars (the kind with a metal hinge and rubber gasket work best), making sure a layer of liquid covers the top, and refrigerate. The kraut will keep this way for up to 6 months or longer. It will continue to ferment and strengthen in flavor, but at a much slower rate.

Sourdough Namaste Naan

When made in a recent cooking class, these lovely ovals of naan were described by the students as “soft golden pillows.” They’re perfect for scooping up Indian Spinach with Fried Paneer (this page) or spreading with Golden Apricot Ginger Chutney (this page).

Hands-on time: 20 minutes | Hands-off time: 9 to 14 hours
Makes six 8- to 10-inch pieces of naan

For the sponge

½ cup sourdough starter

2.5 ounces (about ½ cup) whole wheat flour

¼ cup lukewarm water

For the dough

2 tablespoons lukewarm water

Pinch of unbleached white sugar

¼ teaspoon active dry yeast

3 tablespoons plain whole milk yogurt, at room temperature

2 tablespoons plus ¼ teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided

4.5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole white wheat flour

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon unbleached white sugar

Pinch of baking soda

1.25 ounces (about ¼ cup) unbleached white bread flour, for dough, hands, and work surface

1 teaspoon unsalted butter or ghee, melted

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the starter, flour, and water. Stir well. Cover the bowl with a plastic bag or towel (or both) and let it rest at room temperature, around 70 degrees F, to ferment for 8 to 12 hours. This action builds the strength of the sourdough; after a big feeding, the microbes need the time to digest.

BUILDING THE DOUGH

The following day the sponge should look active with bubbles on the surface. In a small bowl, add the lukewarm water and stir in the pinch of sugar. Sprinkle the yeast in the water and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the mixture becomes active and frothy. Once active, stir it into the sponge. Then add the yogurt and 2 tablespoons of the oil to the sponge and stir well.

In a separate medium bowl, add the whole white wheat flour, salt, turmeric, cardamom, sugar, and baking soda. Mix well. Incorporate the flour mixture into the wet mixture with a spatula or spoon. Add a couple more tablespoons of white flour if needed to get the dough to come together. The dough should stay soft, but not stick to your hands when you handle it. Refrain from adding too much flour. Keep the dough soft and pliable, not tight.

Transfer the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Fold and push, kneading the dough for 3 to 5 minutes. When you press the surface of the dough, it should spring back.

Clean and dry your sponge bowl, coat it with the remaining ¼ teaspoon of extra-virgin olive oil, and put the happy dough in it. Cover the bowl with a plastic bag or dish towel (or both) and keep it in a warm place (78 to 82 degrees F) for 1 to 2 hours. Dough will not rise if it gets chilly. The dough should almost double in volume.

BAKING THE BREAD

With a griddle or pizza stone inside, heat the oven to 500 degrees F. Allow 30 to 45 minutes for it to get hot throughout. Do this while the bread is rising. Using this hot surface can give the naan a similar kind of texture as the clay tandoor.

Remove the dough from the bowl and press lightly to deflate. Divide the dough into six equal parts; a dough scraper is the most efficient cutting tool. Take each piece of dough, one at a time, and, using a floured rolling pin, roll it into an 8-inch oval shape.

With moist hands, place one oval of the rolled naan on your palm. Carefully flip it onto the griddle or stone in the oven. Most pizza stones can take two to three pieces at a time. After 1½ minutes, peek in and check to see if each oval has puffed up slightly. Flip each naan over with tongs or a spatula. You should see some brown freckles on the bottom surface. Bake another 1½ to 2 minutes. Remember that as you repeat this process with the remaining dough, opening and shutting the oven door, the temperature inside will slightly cool and baking may take a bit longer.

After the naan is baked, brush each piece lightly with ghee or butter.

Place the amber naan in a basket or on a platter to serve. Press your palms together and meet your fresh bread, honoring the love, truth, light, and peace that are within you and the bread you have prepared.

Golden Apricot Ginger Chutney

Naan and other Indian dishes become flat-out scintillating with the addition of a fruity chutney, a traditional South Asian condiment that comes from the Indian word chatni, thought to mean “crushed.” During the colonial era, the British took it home to their island, and then carried it to their other colonial possessions, including South Africa and the Caribbean Islands. Historically, vinegar was not always added in making the spicy condiment, but with it the mixture keeps much longer.

Hands-on time: 15 minutes | Hands-off time: 40 minutes with occasional stirring
Makes 1½ cups

¾ cup unbleached white sugar

¼ cup whole cane or brown sugar

½ cup white wine or champagne vinegar

3½ cups (about 1 pound) fresh, ripe apricots, thinly sliced

½ small white onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons peeled and grated ginger

Pinch of fine sea salt

In a 2-quart pot over medium heat, add the sugars and vinegar and slowly bring to a simmer. In a medium mixing bowl, slice the apricots (do this over the bowl so you don’t lose the juices to your cutting board). As you slice each apricot, set aside the single seed (the stone).

Stir the sugars and vinegar to make sure the sugars have dissolved; the mixture will have developed a frothy look. Add the apricot slices along with the onion, red pepper flakes, ginger, and salt. Establish a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. After 30 minutes of simmering, stirring occasionally, the mixture will still be a little chunky. After 40 minutes, the concoction will become thick and glistening, with a clear, jewel-like appearance similar to jam. It’s ready.

Once the chutney has cooled, put it into a clean glass jar with a lid. This will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks. Double or triple the recipe if you like, and process some of the jars for storing (see Preserving the Jam on this page). In sealed jars, the chutney will keep indefinitely on the shelf, waiting to give you some welcome summer love during the cold of next winter.

Indian Spinach with Fried Paneer (Palak Paneer)

This vegetarian dish is heavenly served with fresh-from-the-oven Sourdough Namaste Naan (this page). Being a true believer in fresh vegetables, I initially tried cleaning, plucking, and steaming mounds of spinach to make this favorite recipe. Then a fine Indian cook let me know that frozen spinach works better for both texture and flavor. Absolutely true.

Hands-on time: 40 to 45 minutes | Makes 6 servings

2 to 3 tablespoons ghee, divided

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 (10-ounce) packages frozen chopped spinach

1 jalapeño chili pepper, seeded and finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and grated

1 teaspoon ground garam masala

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cumin

2 Roma tomatoes (about 6 ounces), seeded and diced

1 to 2 teaspoons fine sea salt, divided

2 tablespoons heavy cream

Fried Paneer (recipe follows)

In a large 12-inch skillet or heavy 4-quart pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the ghee over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté on low to medium heat until fully caramelized (golden), around 20 minutes.

During this time, set up your mise en place for the rest of the dish, preparing the produce and measuring the spices. As you chop the jalapeño, taste a nibble to find out how many stars of heat you’re adding. Adjust the amount you add to suit your taste. If boiling or heating water is needed according to the package directions on the spinach, start that now. Some brands allow you to boil the spinach in the bag, which can be handy.

Construction of the dish can now be efficient and undemanding. Cook the spinach according to package directions, draining it through a colander after it has been prepared. Add the jalapeño, garlic, and ginger to the onion. If the pan seems dry and needs the remaining tablespoon of ghee, add it now. Next, add the garam masala, turmeric, and cumin to the onions. Once the aroma from the spices registers in your nose, add the diced tomatoes and 1 teaspoon of the salt.

Fold in the drained chopped spinach, stirring to combine all of the ingredients. You have a second teaspoon of salt to consider adding part or all of. The only way you’ll know how much additional salt to add is to taste the dish. Add more if needed, a little at a time, to bring up the flavor.

Before serving, stir in the cream and the fried paneer, then bring the heat up a smidge and stir. Serve immediately.

FRIED PANEER

Some restaurants add the raw paneer to the cooked spinach, which works, but is not nearly as flavorful or crispy as the method described below.

Hands-on time: 10 minutes | Hands-off time: 20 minutes for marinating
Makes 1½ cups fried paneer pieces

About ⅓ pound paneer cheese

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon ground garam masala

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

Pinch of fine sea salt

1 tablespoon ghee, plus more as needed

Cut the paneer into 1- to 1½-inch rectangles, about ¼ inch thick. Set aside in a small bowl. In a second small bowl or ramekin, combine the extra-virgin olive oil, garam masala, turmeric, and salt to make a paste.

Add the paste to the paneer. Using your fingertips, slowly smear each piece of paneer with some of the paste, on all sides. Allow the paneer to set for a minimum of 20 minutes, a maximum of a few hours.

In a heavy 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the ghee. Add the paneer and brown the bottom side, about 30 seconds. Be sure you hear a sizzle when the paneer hits the hot fat. As you add more pieces, adjust the heat occasionally to keep it consistent. Turn each piece over and brown the other side, adding more ghee to the skillet if needed. Remove the pieces to a paper towel to await their contribution to the spinach dish.

Focaccia al Rosemary Sourdough

The dough for this bread is literally steeped in rosemary and garlic. This isn’t the backup singer for a sandwich—it’s the headliner.

Hands-on time: 20 to 30 minutes | Hands-off time: 10 to 12 hours
Makes eight 5-by-2½-inch rectangles

For the sponge

1 tablespoon finely chopped, tightly packed fresh rosemary

1 cup boiling water

½ cup sourdough starter

10 ounces (about 2 cups) whole wheat flour

For the dough

½ cup lukewarm water

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon dry yeast

1½ teaspoons fine sea salt

1 large clove garlic, pressed or minced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2.5 ounces (about ½ cup) whole wheat flour

5 to 6 ounces (1 to 1¼ cups) unbleached white bread flour

¼ teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a large mixing bowl, add the rosemary and the boiling water. This softens the stiff leaves of the rosemary and releases the flavor from the resins. Once the water has cooled to lukewarm (3 or 4 minutes), add the starter and 10 ounces of whole wheat flour. Stir to combine. Cover with a plastic bag and dish towel, and leave for 8 hours or overnight at room temperature, around 70 degrees F.

BUILDING THE DOUGH

In a small bowl, add the lukewarm water. Stir in the honey, then sprinkle in the yeast. Wait at least 5 minutes, until the yeast is active and frothy. Add the yeast mixture, salt, garlic, and 1 tablespoon of the extra-virgin olive oil to the sponge and stir well.

Add the 2.5 ounces of whole wheat flour and stir well. Then begin adding the unbleached white bread flour a little at a time. You may not need all of the flour. Once the dough forms into a soft ball, turn it out onto a floured surface, and, with lightly floured hands, fold gently for a few minutes. The dough should be soft, light, and bouncy, but should not stick to your hands. When you press the surface, it should spring back. Clean and dry the bowl, and lightly coat it with a smidge of the remaining extra-virgin olive oil. Place the dough in the bowl and cover with plastic and a dish towel. Put it in a warm place (78 to 82 degrees F) for 1½ to 2 hours, until the volume has doubled.

KNEAD TO KNOW

Can I Stop the Process, Refrigerate the Dough, and Bake Later?

Yes! The best place to hit the pause button is the point where you have formed the dough and it’s ready to proof (the final, but less dramatic rise) and bake. When you’re ready to bake, remove the dough from the refrigerator and bring it to room temperature while preheating your oven or griddle. Putting cold dough in a hot oven can compromise the oven temperature. Once everything is warmed up—bake.

BAKING THE BREAD

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. Prepare a baking sheet by lining it with parchment paper. Gently deflate the dough onto the parchment paper and tap it out with your fingertips into a 10-by-10-inch square of even 1-inch thickness. Cover the baking sheet (I reuse two plastic bags), and let the dough rest while the oven fully preheats, 20 to 30 minutes.

Remove the covering and, using a moistened thumb or finger, create dimples on the surface every 2 to 3 inches. Drizzle or brush on the remaining extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle the coarse salt over the surface of the bread. Put the bread in the oven and lower the heat to 450 degrees F. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the edges turn golden, the bread has almost doubled in height, and the internal temperature reaches 190 degrees F. The shaft of your thermometer should come out perfectly clean.

Allow the bread to cool for at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Walnut-Arugula Pesto and Fresh Mozzarella Open-Face with Balsamic Syrup

Hands-on time: 5 minutes (with focaccia, pesto, and syrup prepared)
Makes 8 appetizer-size open-face sandwiches

4 (2.5-by-5-inch) rectangles of Focaccia al Rosemary Sourdough (this page)

¼ cup Walnut-Arugula Pesto (recipe follows)

1 (8-ounce) fresh mozzarella ball

2 tablespoons Balsamic Syrup (recipe follows)

Bisect the focaccia rectangles through the middle to create eight pieces. Lightly toast the bread in a toaster or under the oven broiler (they will take about 1½ minutes under the broiler to toast).

Spread each square with a teaspoon or more of pesto. Place a thin slice (about ¼ inch thick) of mozzarella on top of the pesto. Finish each with a drizzle of Balsamic Syrup. Serve immediately.

WALNUT-ARUGULA PESTO

This recipe makes more than you need for the open-face sandwiches on this page. Store the extra, use it as a topping on fish or chicken, or stir it into some warm cooked cannellini beans.

Hands-on time: 25 minutes | Makes 1 to 1½ cups

½ cup raw, shelled walnut halves or pieces

4 to 5 cups (3.5 to 4 ounces) baby arugula

4 cloves garlic

2 teaspoons lemon zest

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 1 large lemon)

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ to ½ teaspoon sugar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Put the walnuts in a pie plate or small baking dish and toast for 12 to 15 minutes, until fragrant. Let cool.

In a food processor, pulse the arugula with the walnuts and garlic until finely chopped. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, and sugar and pulse a few more times to combine. With the machine on, add the extra-virgin olive oil in a slow, steady stream to process the mixture to a smooth paste. Taste and adjust salt, sugar, and lemon to your liking.

Pour the pesto into a small jar and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Or divide the mixture between two jars and freeze half to use later. The pesto will keep in the freezer for 6 months.

BALSAMIC SYRUP

Keep a small jar of this syrup on hand to drizzle on roasted vegetables or chicken, or to use as the starter for homemade salad dressing.

Hands-on time: 25 minutes | Makes ¼ cup

½ cup balsamic vinegar

3 to 4 teaspoons brown sugar or honey

In a small pan over medium heat, add the vinegar and sugar. Stir, bringing the liquid to a soft simmer. Reduce the liquid by half; this will take about 10 minutes. Keep the simmer low and constant, stirring often. Remove the pan from the heat and pour the liquid into a Pyrex measuring cup. As it cools, it will thicken to a syrup-like consistency. The syrup will keep in the refrigerator for a month or two.

Turkey and Provolone Panini with Pistachio Tapenade

The diminutive version of the Italian word for bread (pane) is panini: little bread or little sandwich. They may be little, but these grilled sandwiches deliver big amore.

Hands-on time: 15 minutes | Makes 4 sandwiches

4 (2.5-by-5-inch) rectangles of Focaccia al Rosemary Sourdough (this page)

¼ to ½ cup Pistachio Tapenade (recipe follows)

4 slices of turkey

4 slices of provolone cheese

4 slices of roasted red pepper or heirloom tomato

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Balsamic Syrup, for serving (optional) (this page)

Heat a large cast-iron skillet or grill pan over medium-high heat. Find a second skillet or heavy, flat lid that can fit inside the first skillet or grill pan.

Bisect each of the four pieces of focaccia. Spread 2 to 3 teaspoons of tapenade on each of the eight pieces of bread. On one side of each of the four sandwiches, fold slices of turkey to fit. On the second side of each sandwich, fold one slice of provolone and place a slice of red pepper or tomato on top of the cheese. (If you want to add the sweet acidic flavor of Balsamic Syrup, consider giving the top of the red pepper a tiny drizzle before moving on.) Put the four sandwiches together.

Brush the top of the bread with extra-virgin olive oil and place the sandwiches top down into the hot skillet. Brush the second side with extra-virgin olive oil, then place the second skillet or heavy lid on top of the sandwiches, and press. After 1½ minutes, turn the sandwiches, lower the heat slightly, replace the skillet or lid for pressing, and let the sandwiches grill another minute, until the surfaces look toasted and the cheese has melted. Remove from heat and serve immediately.

PISTACHIO TAPENADE

Pistachios give this tapenade a unique flavor. Walnuts or pine nuts can be substituted.

Hands-on time: 10 minutes | Makes 1 cup

⅔ cup pitted kalamata olives

½ cup shelled pistachios

2 small cloves garlic

4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon capers

Freshly ground black pepper

In a food processor, place all of the ingredients. Pulse the mixture until it’s finely chopped with a spreadable consistency. Taste the mixture and add more lemon juice if needed, or more extra-virgin olive oil if the mixture seems too salty.

Tapenade can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 1 week. The flavor will intensify with age.

Whole Grain Sourdough English Muffins

The taste difference between these and the store-bought variety is remarkable. Don’t want all eight at the same time? It’s easy to freeze four for another day.

Hands-on time: 45 minutes | Hands-off time: 9 to 11 hours | Makes 8 muffins

For the sponge

½ cup sourdough starter

5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole wheat flour

½ cup lukewarm water

For the dough

¼ cup lukewarm water

1 tablespoon honey

½ teaspoon active dry yeast

¼ cup plain whole milk yogurt

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

3.75 ounces (about ¾ cup) whole wheat flour

2 to 2.5 ounces (about ½ cup) unbleached white flour

1½ teaspoons vegetable oil, divided

2 tablespoons cornmeal

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a large mixing bowl, combine the sourdough starter, 5 ounces of whole wheat flour, and ½ cup of lukewarm water. Give the mixture several vigorous stirs, and then cover the bowl with a plastic bag and a tea towel. Let the bowl rest at room temperature, around 70 degrees F, for 8 hours or overnight.

BUILDING THE DOUGH

In a small bowl, add ¼ cup of lukewarm water. Stir in the honey. Sprinkle in the yeast, then allow 5 minutes for the yeast to bloom (it will love that honey). Once frothy, add the yeast to the sponge and stir well.

If the yogurt you are using is thick Greek yogurt, thin it out with water to normal yogurt texture, but keep the total amount to ¼ cup. Add the yogurt and salt to the sponge and stir well.

Add the remaining 3.75 ounces of whole wheat flour and stir. Then begin adding the white flour, a little at a time, until the dough separates from the sides of the bowl. Remove onto a floured surface. The dough should be soft and bouncy, but not sick to your hands. Gently fold or knead it a few times until it easily forms a ball.

Clean and dry the mixing bowl, then lightly coat it with ½ teaspoon of the oil. Put the kneaded dough back into the bowl and let it rise in a warm place (78 to 82 degrees F) until doubled, about 1 hour.

BAKING THE BREAD

Remove the dough from the bowl and press it down. Divide the dough in half, then divide each half into four equal-size pieces for a total of eight pieces. With lightly floured hands, roll each portion into a ball, and then flatten with the palm of your hand to make 4-inch rounds. Place each round onto a baking sheet sprinkled with the cornmeal. Flip each round over so that both sides get a very light coating of cornmeal.

NOTE: At this point, you have the option of placing the rounds in a sealed container and refrigerating until you are ready to bake. Bring them back to room temperature before baking. If the rounds have spread in the process, re-form them before you proceed.

Cover the rounds loosely with a plastic bag or a slightly moist cloth towel to prevent the surface from drying out or developing a skin. Let the muffins rest in a warm place for about 30 minutes; they will puff up slightly. Five to 10 minutes before you are ready to bake, heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat. Lightly coat the surface with the remaining teaspoon of oil.

Lower the heat to medium-low. Stay in tune with the heat in the skillet. If the surface is too hot, the muffins will brown on the outside in less than the time noted, but the inside will be doughy; if the skillet is too cool, the muffins will take longer than indicated to brown on the outside, and the inside could get dry.

Put rounds in the skillet and slightly flatten each one with a spatula. Cover with a lid and “bake” for about 8 minutes. Check the bottoms, looking for a browned, speckled crust. Flip each muffin over and bake for another 8 minutes, covered. Repeat with the remaining rounds. Cool the muffins for at least 10 minutes on a rack. Split with a serrated knife when ready to serve.

Once fully cooled, the muffins benefit from toasting before serving.

Blueberry Port Wine Jam

Macerating fruit in booze gives jam a sexy dimension of flavor. In this old-fashioned recipe, the plums serve as the pectin for the jam. The touch of butter keeps the finished product clearer—doesn’t sound like it would, but it does! Spread this jam on Whole Grain Sourdough English Muffins (this page) or, honestly, on any of the breads in this book.

Hands-on time: 1½ hours | Hands-off time: 2 to 12 hours | Makes 6 to 7 jars

4 pounds (½ flat) fresh blueberries

1½ cups sugar

1 cup port wine

1¼ cups honey

2 medium plums, sliced

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

PREPARING THE JARS

Run 6 or 7 pint-size jars with their lids and bands through the dishwasher to sterilize them. If you don’t have a dishwasher, you can fill an 8-quart pot with water and put a rack or a towel on the bottom. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, and add the jars, lids, and bands you will use. Turn off the heat. Leave everything in the water for about 15 minutes. Place the jars, lids, and bands on a baking sheet lined with a towel to air dry.

MACERATING THE FRUIT

In a large bowl, combine the blueberries, sugar, and wine. Stir gently, but well. Cover the bowl with a plastic bag or dish towel, and allow the fruit to macerate for 2 hours minimum, or for up to 12 hours. Macerating begins to break down the fruit, reducing cooking time slightly, and allows the wine flavor to soak into the berries.

MAKING THE JAM

In a heavy 8-quart pot over high heat, combine the macerated blueberries, honey, plums, butter, and lemon juice. Bring everything to a rolling boil, stirring frequently.

Turn the heat down to medium-low to establish a steady simmer. Continue to stir frequently, scraping the sides of the pot where the fruit will thicken and stick. Let the mixture bubble for 45 to 50 minutes; it will reduce by almost half.

To test for doneness, put a small plate or ramekin in the freezer for 5 minutes. Spoon a bit of the jam onto the cold plate and put it back in the freezer for 1 minute. When you push the jam with your finger, does it set up and leave a clean space where you pushed it? Has the mixture reduced by about half? Is the temperature of the berry mix up to 220 degrees F? If you answered yes to these questions, your jam is ready.

PRESERVING THE JAM

Fill jars with hot jam, leaving ¼ inch of headspace. A wide-mouth canning funnel works well for pouring.

Wipe the rims with a clean, lint-free towel. Put the lids and bands on the jars, turning each band to be secure but not overly tight.

Place a canning rack or extra jar bands on the bottom of a large pot filled two-thirds to three-fourths with water (this can be done in an 8-quart pasta pot or a 10- to 12-quart canning pot). Bring the water to a full boil. Lower the jars into the water so they are fully immersed (canning tongs are helpful for getting jars in and out of the pot). Process for 10 minutes, then remove each jar to a towel on the counter and let cool. You will hear a “plink” when the processed jar has sealed!

This jam will be thick, but somewhat softer (easier to spread!) than jams that use commercial pectin.

Havarti Tuna Melt with Sliced Tomato

Here this affordable comfort food is taken to new heights by using a Whole Grain Sourdough English Muffin (this page) as its base and creamy Havarti cheese with a slice of heirloom tomato for the melt. I recommend looking for top-quality tuna where the only ingredients on the label are tuna and salt. Know your producer. Conscientious companies seek out smaller tuna, which has less danger of dolphin by-catch.

Hands-on time: 10 minutes | Makes 8 open-face sandwiches

2 (5-ounce) cans of tuna

½ teaspoon fine sea salt (optional)

4 to 5 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

6 tablespoons Avocado Aioli (this page) or mayonnaise

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon capers or sweet pickle relish

4 Whole Grain Sourdough English Muffins (this page), split

8 thin slices of Havarti cheese

8 thin slices of ripe heirloom tomato

Preheat the broiler of your oven.

In a small mixing bowl, add the tuna and break it apart with a fork. Have a small taste of the tuna to gauge the saltiness. Add optional salt if the tuna seems bland. Next, fold in the lemon juice, aioli, and pepper. Add capers if you like a saltier taste to your tuna, sweet pickle relish if you prefer a sweeter taste. Stir to combine. Taste again, and adjust the lemon juice and salt to your liking.

Lightly toast the English muffins. Not all the way, as the broiler will finish the job. Place the muffin halves on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Divide the tuna salad equally among the muffin halves. Top the tuna with a slice of Havarti, and a slice of tomato on top of the cheese. Top each tomato slice with a grind of black pepper.

Place the baking sheet under the broiler and broil for 2 minutes. Check after 1 minute. Once the cheese is fully melted and starting to bubble on the edges, the tuna melts are ready to serve.

AVOCADO AIOLI

Aioli and mayonnaise are very similar products—both are produced by emulsifying lemon juice, eggs, and oil into a rich sauce to be used in a variety of ways. For an herbed aioli, stir in two to three large, finely chopped basil leaves once the emulsion is complete.

Hands-on time: 15 minutes | Makes about 1 cup

1 large garlic clove, peeled

1 egg yolk, at room temperature

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, at room temperature

½ cup avocado oil

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

On a cutting board, smash the garlic clove with the back of a chef’s knife, then chop it into a paste.

Stabilize a medium bowl with a cloth or a damp paper towel underneath and add the garlic paste. Drop the egg yolk into the bowl and lightly mix the yolk with the mashed garlic. Mix in the mustard, add the lemon juice, and stir until all of the ingredients are combined.

While whisking continuously, drizzle in the oil a few drops at a time, making sure each addition is fully incorporated before adding more oil. (Note: Halfway through the process, when the emulsion is holding, you can add the oil a little more quickly.) When all of the oil is fully incorporated, the aioli will become thick, with a luscious golden color. Taste, and season with salt and pepper if necessary. The aioli will keep in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days.

Danish Rye Sourdough Seed Bread

Fiber feeds the microorganisms in your gut, keeping the lining strong and healthy. The six tablespoons of flax seeds in this bread contain over fifteen grams of fiber. The same amount of sunflower seeds provides another four grams. Another ten grams come from the three-plus ounces of rye flour! Make your microbiome happy by eating this bread.

Hands-on time: 30 minutes | Hands-off time: 9 to 13 hours
Makes 1 loaf; 18 thin slices

For the sponge

6 tablespoons whole rye berries (see Note), or cracked rye

6 tablespoons whole wheat berries, or cracked wheat

6 tablespoons sunflower seeds

6 tablespoons flax seeds

½ cup sourdough starter

1¾ cups water

For the dough

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

2 teaspoons honey

1 teaspoon molasses

3.35 ounces (about ¾ cup) rye flour

4.5 ounces (about ¾ cup) whole white wheat flour

NOTE: Whole rye berries can be difficult to find, but are available online through Bob’s Red Mill for about $3 per pound. If you don’t have rye berries or cracked rye, increase the amounts of the whole wheat, flax, and sunflower seeds to ½ cup each. Keep in mind that flax seeds absorb more water than other seeds. If increasing the flax amount, you may need to increase the amount of water used.

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a coffee grinder, pulse the rye and wheat kernels until the grains are cracked, eight to ten pulses (don’t make meal out of them). This step is not necessary if you have purchased cracked grains.

In a large mixing bowl, add the cracked rye and wheat. In the same coffee grinder, pulse sunflower and flax seeds three or four times, just breaking the seeds. Add these to the mixing bowl with the other grains. Add the sourdough starter and water to the grains and seeds. Stir, cover with a plastic bag, and let sit for a minimum of 8 hours, or for up to 24 hours at room temperature, about 70 degrees F.

BUILDING THE DOUGH

After the fermentation period, add the salt, honey, and molasses to the sponge. Begin adding the rye and wheat flours a little at a time until the mixture is like thick, sticky cookie dough—a little difficult to stir. You may need more or less flour depending on how much water the ground seeds absorbed. Cover the bowl with a plastic bag and/or a dish towel, and let the mixture sit at room temperature another 1 to 2 hours. This second fermentation can be skipped and you will get a similar bread texture, but the additional rest allows the microbes to interact with the flour, enhancing the nutritional aspect.

KNEAD TO KNOW

Why Does Rye Behave Differently Than Other Grains?

Have you ever purchased a loaf of 100 percent rye bread? These loaves are usually very dense and a little chewy. Not much rise to the loaf, and certainly no big artisanal holes! Rye has higher levels of both bran (fiber) and minerals. Increased mineral content can decrease bread volume. And that pesky bran, with its sharp shape, can cut gluten strands. Further diminishing the power of the gluten structure to trap air and rise bread, rye flour is high in pentosans, a naturally occurring polysaccharide. Pentosans compete with the gluten proteins for moisture. Without proper hydration, gluten doesn’t develop. So even if you’re tempted to add more rye flour to any of the breads in this book, beware. It may prevent a nice rise. On the good side, adding a little rye flour to a wheat bread mix is thought to bring out the flavor of the wheat. I have found that to be absolutely true, but haven’t found any science to confirm why it performs this magic.

BAKING THE BREAD

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Lightly oil an 8½-by-4½-inch loaf pan. Scoop the mixture into the pan, making sure it is evenly spread. Smooth the top. Score the top with a knife, down the middle lengthwise, to prevent cracking.

Bake the loaf for 45 to 55 minutes (check at 45 minutes), until the edges look set and the internal temperature reaches 190 to 210 degrees F. The shaft of your thermometer should come out perfectly clean.

Allow the baked bread to completely cool before removing from the pan or slicing.

Gingered Crimson Beet Kraut

If you love adding color to your meal, this kraut will become your new favorite. The beets and red cabbage spread their pigment into the mix to create a deep crimson color. Slice Danish Rye Sourdough Seed Bread (this page), lightly toast, and top with cream cheese or butter. Add a piece of smoked salmon or avocado, and plop this kraut on top to create a novel breakfast, lunch, snack, or dinner.

Hands-on time: 15 minutes | Hands-off time: 8 to 10 days | Makes 4 to 6 cups

1½ pounds green cabbage

½ pound red cabbage

4 teaspoons kosher salt, or adjusted amount per weight of cabbage

⅓ to ½ pound (1 medium to large) beet

1 small white onion

¼ pound (1 small or ½ large) red bell pepper

1 to 1½ tablespoons peeled and grated ginger

Weigh the cabbages as a whole head or large chunks, not shredded.

Note the weight.

Begin by halving the cabbage head north to south so you are cutting through the core, bisecting it. Notice the thick, white V-shaped core. Follow the outside of the V with your knife and cut away the core from each half. Then cut each half in half lengthwise so you have four wedges. Take one wedge and remove enough of the inside section so that you can flatten the outer section with your hand. Hold it down with curved fingers and aim your knife perpendicularly. Slice off ⅛-inch ribbons. Repeat this process with the internal section of the wedge you removed, and with all of the remaining wedges, creating a cutting board full of shredded cabbage. Plop all of it into a large mixing bowl.

Add 1 teaspoon of salt per ½ pound of whole cabbage weight. Sprinkle it over the shredded cabbage.

While the salt is softening the cabbage, prepare the other vegetables, but don’t add them to the cabbage yet. Grate the beet on the large holes of a box grater into a separate medium-size mixing bowl. Slice the onion into thin half-moons and the pepper into thin slices. Add the onions, peppers, and ginger to the beets.

The pre-salting will have given the cabbage a chance to begin releasing water (weeping). With clean hands, massage the cabbage. Grab hard, as if these were tight shoulder muscles that needed relaxing. Move through all the cabbage, making sure each strand meets your grip. Feel the crunchiness soften. Massage the cabbage for at least 3 minutes.

Now add the beets, onions, peppers, and ginger to the cabbage and mix everything together with your hands.

Place the mixed vegetables in a fermentation vessel (a 1-gallon wide-mouth glass cookie jar or a large ceramic crock work well; two wide-mouth quart jars work too). Use your fist to compress the mixture into the bottom of the vessel. Add a little at a time, pushing down hard after each handful of vegetables goes in, compacting the vegetables and releasing their juices.

Pickled Egg and Onion Salad

Making egg salad with pickled eggs adds a whole new dimension to this classic sandwich spread. Use it to adorn Danish Rye Sourdough Seed Bread (this page). Go crazy and include a dab of Gingered Crimson Beet Kraut (this page) on top of the egg salad. Oh, the flavors. Ooooh, the colors!

Hands-on time: 10 minutes | Makes about 1 cup egg salad

6 Turmeric Pickled Eggs and Onions (recipe follows)

2 tablespoons Avocado Aioli (this page) or mayonnaise

2 teaspoons sweet pickle relish

2 teaspoons capers (optional)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Freshly ground black pepper

Fine sea salt, as needed

1 tablespoon Gingered Crimson Beet Kraut (optional) (this page)

Remove the eggs and onions from the pickling brine and chop finely. In a medium bowl, add the chopped eggs and onions. Next, add the aioli, mustard, relish, and capers and stir to combine. Season with pepper.

Taste the mixture. Depending on the saltiness of the mustard, relish, and capers used, you may or may not need to add a bit more salt.

The salad will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

TURMERIC PICKLED EGGS AND ONIONS

The addition of turmeric colors the eggs a cheerful golden yellow. Remember that when black pepper is combined with turmeric, it enhances turmeric’s anti-inflammatory properties.

Hands-on time: 15 minutes | Hands-off time: 3 days
Makes 6 pickled eggs with onions

6 hard-cooked eggs

1⅓ cups apple cider vinegar

½ cup water

½ small onion, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices or half-moons

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

3 dried cardamom pods

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground garam masala

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Peel the hard-cooked eggs and place them in the bottom of a wide-mouth quart-size glass jar.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the vinegar, water, onion, sugar, salt, cardamom, turmeric, cumin, garam masala, and pepper. Bring to a low simmer. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Pour the vinegar mixture over the eggs, covering them completely. Gently rotate the jar to evenly distribute the onions. Put the lid on the jar and place it in the refrigerator, where the eggs and onions will keep for up to 2 weeks, but be ready to eat after 3 days.

Injera (Ethiopian Flatbread)

Known for its impressive fiber content (five grams per quarter cup), the tiny teff grain provides the base of this stretchy fermented flatbread. Traditionally, injera serves as both bread and utensil. A nonstick skillet works best for making the bread, but a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet can also function. Cast iron holds on to heat, so be careful to warm it up slowly as opposed to using high heat to get it hot quickly.

Hands-on time: 20 to 30 minutes | Hands-off time: 24 hours; then 2 to 4 hours
Makes eight 10-inch disks

5 ounces (about 1 cup) teff flour

4 ounces (about 1 cup) barley flour, divided, plus a few more tablespoons in reserve (see Note)

2.5 ounces (about ½ cup) whole wheat flour

¼ cup sourdough starter

2½ cups lukewarm water

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

PREPARING THE FERMENTED BATTER

In a large mixing bowl, combine the teff flour, 2 ounces of the barley flour, whole wheat flour, and sourdough starter. Slowly add the water. Stir briskly with a whisk until the mixture becomes a thin batter. Cover the bowl with a plastic bag, place a towel over the top, and keep at room temperature (about 70 degrees F) for 24 to 30 hours. Sometime during the long fermentation period, if possible, visit the mixture and whisk the batter.

NOTE: Barley flour is traditionally used in injera, but can sometimes be difficult to find. If so, substitute whole wheat flour.

After 24 to 30 hours, a thin layer of liquid will have formed on the top of the batter. Carefully pour off ½ cup of this liquid (no more, no less), and discard it. Add the remaining 2 ounces (about ½ cup) of barley flour and whisk. The mixture should be very bubbly, the taste—sour. The batter should resemble crepe batter—the texture of heavy whipping cream with a slight resistance to the whisk. If necessary, adjust the batter to this texture by adding a few tablespoons more of flour or water. If the taste is not sour, you may want to let the mixture sit for another 2 to 4 hours to increase the fermentation.

MAKING THE BREAD

Stir the salt into the batter. Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Make sure the pan is hot. Dip a paper towel into the vegetable oil, using less than a teaspoon of oil, and lightly wipe the pan until it glistens. Using a ½-cup measure, scoop up ½ cup of batter (for a 12-inch skillet, use ⅔cup of batter per disk; for an 8-inch skillet, use ¼ cup batter). With a hot pad, lift the skillet off the heat and pour the batter into the skillet, starting in the middle of the pan and spiraling out. The batter should sizzle (but not pop!). Using your wrist, tilt the pan to evenly cover the bottom with batter. Put the skillet back on the heat. After a few seconds, the top of the batter will be speckled with bubbles on the surface. After 20 to 30 seconds, put a lid on the pan and let the bread cook for another 30 seconds, until the top is dry and the edges are just slightly curled up.

Using a heat-resistant rubber spatula, lift the lip of the bread, and then move it around the perimeter to lift the bread out of the pan. Flip it over and heat the top side for 10 seconds before removing the disk to a plate.

Troubleshooting: If the first disk is too crusty on the bottom, lower the heat a smidge for the next one. If it sticks, nudge the heat up. If it never firms up and falls apart, thicken your batter. If it is thick and seems undercooked, thin out your batter just a bit.

Repeat this procedure with the remaining batter and oil, making eight pieces of flatbread. Fold each disk into fourths and loosely wrap them in a clean towel in preparation for serving. Typically, the injera is used as the base of the meal (like a plate) with various stews and vegetables placed on top. Or the dishes can be plated and the injera served on the side, folded in quarters or rolled like a rug.

KNEAD TO KNOW

Why Do You Cover Rising Dough with a Plastic Bag and a Dish Towel?

The plastic keeps moisture in. I reuse recyclable produce bags over and over until they fall apart—usually ten to twelve times. The towel over the top provides additional warmth.

Savory Collard Greens with Niter Kibbeh (Ye’abasha Gomen)

Leafy-green enthusiasts will appreciate this flavorful take on collards, a dark green vegetable that confounds some cooks with its assertive bitterness. Here they are well cooked and seasoned to create a tender filling for Injera (this page).

Hands-on time: 20 to 25 minutes | Makes 3 cups

2 teaspoons fine sea salt, divided

1½ pounds collard greens (2 bunches)

2 tablespoons Ethiopian Spiced Butter (recipe follows) or ghee or unsalted butter

1 onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

In a 6- or 8-quart pot over high heat, bring 2 quarts of water and 1 teaspoon of the salt to a boil. Remove the collard leaves from the thick central stem, keeping the leaves whole. Rinse the greens carefully. An easy way to do this is to fill a sink with cold water and submerge the greens. If the water has sediment, drain the sink and repeat.

Submerge the whole leaves into the boiling water. Boil the collards for 8 to 12 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the collard leaves, stirring frequently. Check at 8 minutes. When properly done, a small taste of the green will be sweet, not bitter, and the leaves will have wilted, but remain green. While the collards are cooking, begin assembling the other ingredients.

Pour the cooked collards into a colander in the sink. Let them cool until easy to handle. Squeeze out any excess water with your hands, pressing the cooked leaves into a tight ball. Chop the ball into bite-size pieces.

In a large skillet over medium-low heat, add the spiced butter. Next, add the onion and sauté for 10 minutes or more, until it is golden. Stir in the garlic. Once it softens, add the coriander, cardamom, and red pepper flakes to the onions. Add the chopped greens, remaining teaspoon of salt, and 3 to 4 tablespoons of water. Cover the skillet and steam the greens for 3 to 5 minutes. Taste the greens and adjust the salt. If the salt is right, the flavor of the greens and spices will be enhanced. Remove the greens to a bowl to stop the cooking process. Dress with the vinegar. Taste and add more vinegar if you like. Serve warm, on or as a side dish to Injera.

ETHIOPIAN SPICED BUTTER (NITER KIBBEH)

According to Ayurvedic principles, the ingestion of ghee is like offering the finest of fuels into the fires of digestion (Agni). Additionally, ghee is said to build the aura, make all the organs soft, and build up the internal juices of the body (Rasa), which are destroyed by aging.

Hands-on time: 20 minutes | Makes ½ cup

½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, divided

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons peeled and grated ginger

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ rounded teaspoon ground cardamom

½ rounded teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of ground cloves

In a 2-quart pan on medium-low heat, add 2 tablespoons of the butter. When the butter begins to bubble, add the garlic and ginger and stir. After about 30 seconds, add the pepper, turmeric, cardamom, cumin, nutmeg, and cloves. The heat wakes up the spices.

Add the remaining butter. As foam starts to form on the surface, tip the pan and, using a small tea strainer or a slotted spoon, skim off the foam and discard. Once the butter is clear, line the tea strainer with a piece of cheesecloth and place both over a ceramic bowl. Pour the clarified butter through the cheesecloth to remove solids. Press the solids a few times to extract all of the fat. Let the strainer rest on top of the bowl for another minute or two to allow all of the liquid to drain through.

Pour the spiced clarified butter into a clean glass jar. Once cooled, put the lid on and refrigerate, where it will solidify and keep for 6 months or more.

Red Lentil Stew with Berbere (Mesir Wat)

Berbere, a blend of around a dozen spices, is the cornerstone spice of the largely vegetarian Ethiopian cuisine. The spice blend can be purchased at a specialty shop, online, or you can make your own. Vegetables and legumes cooked with berbere and niter kibbeh (Ethiopian spiced butter) have a truly unique flavor loved by many.

Hands-on time: 15 to 20 minutes | Hands-off time: 20 to 25 minutes | Makes 3 cups

2 tablespoons Ethiopian Spiced Butter (this page) or ghee or unsalted butter

1 onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons peeled and grated ginger

1 tablespoon ground berbere

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 cups water

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 cup red lentils, rinsed in a large strainer

1 tablespoon of freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Heat a heavy 4-quart pot over medium heat and add the Ethiopian Spiced Butter. Once it begins to bubble, add the onion and sauté until it is golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic. Once the garlic has softened, add the ginger, berbere, turmeric, paprika, and cumin. Stir together to make a paste. Add the water and stir to dissolve. Next, add the salt and lentils and stir again. Break up any clumping of the lentils. Establish a simmer by bringing up the heat to medium-high, then, once the mixture is bubbling, cover the pot and reduce the heat to low. Simmer the stew for 20 to 25 minutes, check a couple of times to make sure it is maintaining a low simmer, but don’t stir!

When done, there will be no remaining water and the lentils will be melted into a thick, pureed stew. If the mixture has gotten a bit dry, don’t be afraid to add a little water or ghee. Taste and add more salt if needed. Add 2 teaspoons of the lime juice to the mix, stir, and taste again. Add more lime juice if desired. Serve immediately with cilantro sprinkled on top.

Sourdough Pita Pockets

I’ve eaten falafels where the pita was a thin, dry, flavorless package for the fun food inside. And then I’ve enjoyed a pocket sandwich where the pita had flavor and the bread texture was moist and chewy, contributing to the experience rather than being unremarkable. Making pita with sourdough and whole grains definitely elevates these positive qualities.

Hands-on time: 20 to 25 minutes | Hands-off time: 10 hours
Makes 8 pita pockets

For the sponge

5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole wheat flour

½ cup sourdough starter

¾ cup water

For the dough

¼ cup lukewarm water

3 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon honey ½ teaspoon active dry yeast

1¼ teaspoons fine sea salt

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

3.4 ounces (about ¾ cup) whole white wheat flour

3.75 ounces (about ¾ cup) unbleached white bread flour

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a large mixing bowl, add the whole wheat flour, starter, and water. Stir to blend. Cover with a plastic bag and dish towel, and let the mixture ferment at room temperature, around 70 degrees F, for about 8 hours, or overnight. After the fermentation period, you will see bubbles in the brew.

BUILDING THE DOUGH

In a small dish, add the lukewarm water and stir in ½ teaspoon of the honey. Sprinkle in the yeast. Let it brew for 5 minutes, until the mixture is visibly active. Once activated, add this to the sponge and stir vigorously. It will look frothy. Add the salt, remaining tablespoon of honey, and 1 tablespoon of the extra-virgin olive oil and stir again. Then stir in the whole white wheat flour. Begin adding the unbleached white bread flour, a little at a time, until the dough begins to come together. Remove to a lightly floured surface and knead lightly or fold the dough for 2 to 3 minutes. You may not need all of the unbleached white flour; the dough should stay soft and moist, but not stick to your hands. Resist the temptation to add more flour to the dough once it’s formed.

Clean and dry the mixing bowl, lightly coat it with the remaining 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, and put the dough back in. Cover with a plastic bag and a dish towel and keep in a warm place (78 to 82 degrees F) for 1 hour, or until the dough has doubled.

NOTE: At this point the dough can be deflated and put in a covered container in the refrigerator for baking at a later time. It will hold there for up to 8 hours. Be sure to bring it back to room temperature before proceeding with forming and baking.

BAKING THE BREAD

Place a cast-iron griddle or pizza stone in the oven. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. Allow about 45 minutes, after your oven has reached temperature, for the griddle or stone to absorb the heat. If the griddle or stone isn’t hot enough, the dough won’t puff up when baked.

Press the dough and divide it into eight equal pieces. With lightly floured hands, roll each piece into a ball. Let the dough rest, covered with plastic or a damp flour-sack towel, for 10 minutes.

Flatten the balls into disks with your palm. Using a rolling pin, roll each disk into an 8-inch round. Lift each round, one by one, and slip it onto the hot griddle in the oven. How many you can bake at a time depends on the size of your griddle or stone. After 3 minutes, flip each piece over and allow them to bake on the other side for 2 to 3 more minutes, until the surface is lightly brown-speckled and the dough has puffed up. Transfer warm pita to a muslin- or flour-sack towel-lined basket. Repeat baking with remaining dough.

Serve immediately, or, once cooled, rewarm in the oven before serving.

KNEAD TO KNOW

Why Does My Bread Seem to Take More or Less Time Than Indicated in the Recipe?

During the course of my writing this book, our twenty-year-old gas range broke. We got a new one. Suddenly all of my bake times were shorter. Though we had calibrated the old one, it just wasn’t as reliable at holding heat. The temperature accuracy was much improved in the newer oven, so the bake times in this book are based on that, with leeway!

At one point, I had two different people testing the same bread recipe. One reported that the bake time as written was too long. The other let me know that I needed to add 10 minutes to the bake time. My conclusion was that the times I had written were about right. Also, I knew that the first tester prefers bread that is slightly moist. The second likes it drier so it will soak up the oil it’s dipped in. Not only does temperature accuracy come into play, but personal preference does as well.

How large or small your oven is can have an effect (heat is more intense in a smaller oven), as well as where the rack is located in the oven (middle is best). Consider some of these factors, and find times that suit your equipment and crumb partiality.

Cucumber Tomato Feta Pocket Salad

Anticipation is underrated. Wait for hot weather in your neck of the woods, when tomatoes and cucumbers are in their prime, to get the most flavor out of this salad. Up your presentation game by using the Sourdough Pita Pocket (this page) as a bowl.

Hands-on time: 15 minutes | Makes 4 cups of salad (8 servings)

For the gremolata

½ cup (loose) Italian parsley

1 large clove garlic

Zest of 1 medium lemon

For the salad

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon white or rice vinegar

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon sugar

Freshly ground black pepper

½ pound cherry tomatoes

10 ounces (1 large or 2 small) cucumber

3.5 to 4 ounces feta cheese

4 Sourdough Pita Pockets (this page)

Remove the tough ends of the parsley stems, but it’s okay to leave the thinner stems, which hold a lot of flavor. On your cutting board, make a mound of the parsley, garlic, and lemon zest. Hold the tip of your knife down on the board with one hand, with the blade poised above the pile, and, holding the handle with your other hand, move the blade through your pile, over and over, until you have achieved a fine mince. Set the gremolata aside in a small bowl.

In a large salad bowl, combine the lemon juice, vinegar, salt, sugar, and pepper. Whisk them together with a fork until the sugar disappears. Have a taste. Does the level of sweetness suit you? Would more lemon bring it to life? Make micro-adjustments until the dressing pleases your palate.

Slice the cherry tomatoes in half. Peel, slice in half lengthwise, and de-seed (with a spoon) the cucumber. Cut each half of the cucumber into small ¼- to ½-inch-thick half-moons. Cut the feta into ½-inch cubes. Place the vegetables and cheese in the salad bowl, on top of the dressing. Gently toss the salad ingredients with the dressing just before serving.

Cut each pita pocket in half. Open the pocket and place ½ cup of the salad in each one, using the bread as a bowl. Sprinkle the gremolata over the top of each pocket salad. Serve immediately, or refrigerate, and serve within a few hours.

North African Shakshuka

This staple dish from Libyan, Tunisian, Algerian, Moroccan, Saudi, and Israeli cuisines has become a regular meal in our house. I like the bold flavors and relatively quick preparation time. The dish is typically served with bread; here it is paired with the regionally appropriate pita pocket.

Hands-on time: 30 minutes | Makes 2 to 4 servings

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, halved and cut into thin half-moons

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 large red bell pepper, cut into thin slices

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground sweet paprika

⅛ teaspoon ground cayenne, or to taste

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

1 (13-ounce) can diced tomatoes

3 to 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

4 large eggs, at room temperature

Freshly ground black pepper

4 Sourdough Pita Pockets (this page)

Heat a large 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Once the pan is warm, add the extra-virgin olive oil. Add one single sliver of onion and listen to make sure there’s a sizzle. Then add the remaining onion, along with the garlic and red pepper. Fold the vegetables, from bottom to top, frequently. After 3 to 4 minutes, add the cumin, paprika, cayenne, and salt. Sauté the vegetables with the spices until very soft, another 10 minutes.

Add the diced tomatoes and any extra juice from the can to the onions and peppers. Simmer, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes.

Stir in the crumbled feta. Crack 1 egg into a small cup or ramekin. Make a small well in the sauce and gently pour the egg into the simmering sauce. Repeat with the remaining 3 eggs, making another well for each one. When all 4 eggs are nested, lower the heat slightly and cover the skillet again.

Allow the eggs to cook until just set, between 3 and 5 minutes, depending on how you prefer the thickness of the cooked yolk. Whites should no longer be translucent.

Cut a pita pocket in half and place one half on each side of a plate or large bowl. Scoop ample sauce, including an egg, between the two pieces of pita. Repeat with remaining pita and shakshuka. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately.

Rustic Sourdough Boule

Be patient with yourself if this is your first bread-making attempt. Allow for a few practice loaves without judgment. In the beginning, I forgot the salt once, flipped it on its side into the hot Dutch oven a few times, and have made all manner of other mistakes. Errors teach us and, in this case, make the baker and the bread better and better each time.

Hands-on time: 20 to 30 minutes over a 48-hour period | Hands-off time: 11 to 14 hours
Makes one 10-inch-round loaf (boule)

For the sponge

7.5 ounces (about 1½ cups) whole wheat flour

2.5 ounces (about ½ cup) whole white wheat flour

½ cup sourdough starter

1 cup lukewarm water

For the soaker

2 ounces (about ½ cup) rye flour

7.5 ounces (about 1½ cups) whole wheat flour

1 tablespoon fine sea salt or kosher salt

1 cup lukewarm water

For the dough

2 to 3 tablespoons lukewarm water

Pinch of sugar

¼ to ½ teaspoon active dry yeast

2.5 ounces (½ cup) unbleached white bread flour, plus more for work surface

½ teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a large mixing bowl, combine the 10 ounces of wheat flours and the starter. Add the water a little at a time until you obtain the consistency of stretchy porridge. A Danish dough whisk is useful for stirring, but not necessary. Sourdough cultures like movement. It enlivens them, so give the mixture several vigorous stirs. You may be tempted to increase the water in both the sponge and soaker to make stirring easier. Limit extra water to a few teaspoons. Extra water will affect how much flour is needed to finish, the size of the loaf, and baking times. Cover the bowl with a plastic bag and a dish towel. Set the covered bowl on a counter at room temperature, about 70 degrees F. If your counter is granite or quartz (cold!), you may want to put a dish towel or hot pad underneath the bowl.

PREPARING THE SOAKER

In a separate bowl add the 9.5 ounces of rye and wheat flour, and the salt. Add water a little at a time. Stir, making sure that all of the flour is wet. The mixture will be thicker than the sponge—like super-sticky cookie dough. The soaking helps soften the bran in the whole grain flours, making it easier to form gluten and elevate the dough during baking. Cover this bowl with a plastic bag and a dish towel, and leave on the counter. Allow both the sponge and soaker to rest for 8 to 10 hours (up to 12 is okay too).

BUILDING THE DOUGH

After the long fermentation, the activity of the starter plus flour should have created some bubbles. When you stir it, you will see the mixture stretch like taffy. These are good signs. It means the cultures are active, the gluten developed.

In a small bowl, add the lukewarm water and a tiny pinch of sugar. Sprinkle in the yeast and let it brew for 5 minutes, until the mixture is visibly active. Add the active yeast with water to the sponge and stir vigorously for a minute. If time allows, let the sponge plus yeast acclimate for 10 to 15 minutes.

Stir the soaker flours into the sponge. Add the thick strands of glop (because that is what it looks like) a portion at a time and stir vigorously. This requires some effort. When the dough is even, move on.

Start by lightly flouring a work surface with unbleached white bread flour. Add the unbleached white bread flour ¼ cup at a time). The first amount can be stirred in with a wooden spoon or Danish dough whisk. After that, the flour can be worked in by moving your floured hands down the side of the bowl and turning the dough into itself.

Once the dough is collected and there are no more wet areas, you should be able to remove the dough carefully to a lightly floured surface and fold it in on itself several times (gentle kneading) for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough may seem a little soft and wobbly, but it should not stick to your hands. Do not increase the amount of flour by too much. As you fold the dough, it should stay soft and pliable, like an earlobe; if you press it, the dough will bounce back like the Pillsbury Doughboy. Connect with the dough and the enjoyment of this simple task as you fold, push, and rotate the dough.

Clean and dry your bowl, then lightly coat it with the extra-virgin olive oil. Add the dough. Turn it over once or twice to lightly oil the surface. Cover with the same plastic bag and dish towel. Set it in a warm place (78 to 82 degrees F) and allow it to rise for 2 to 3 hours. The temperature of the room and the dough are critical (see Places and Ways to Help Your Dough Rise, this page).

FORMING THE BOULE

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F and place a 6-quart cast-iron pot with its lid to the side in the oven to get it hot.

Line a banneton, round basket, or a medium colander with a piece of muslin or a flour-sack towel. Sprinkle a teaspoon of unbleached white flour into the cloth and give it a little shake to dust the cloth.

Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Press the dough to deflate it, making a large, flat disk. Pick up a small section of the edge of the dough and press it toward the center. Continue doing this, overlapping the edge of each new section with the previous one, pleating it in like a flower. Flip the dough over and begin constructing a tight surface by rolling the edges of the boule to the underside. This will become rhythmic with practice. Roll, turn an inch or two, and repeat until you have formed a rounded boule with a surface that looks stretched and springs back to the touch.

Place the rounded dough into the basket with the tight surface down, the seam side up (upside down). There will likely be some gaps on the bottom of the boule. Pinch and mend so there are no open areas. Cover it loosely with your plastic bag and let rise 30 minutes in a warm place (near the preheating oven works).

BAKING THE BREAD

Uncover your ready-to-bake boule. Remove the hot pot (not the lid) from the oven to your stovetop using oven mitts. Fold back the muslin cloth covering the bread and quickly flip the loaf into the hot pot so that it is resting in the center of the pot, right side up. This is tricky business because the dough is still soft and a little unwieldy, and the pot is super-hot. Be careful not to touch the pot. Don’t hesitate. Flip the boule briskly and efficiently into the center of the pot.

Score the top of the loaf, using a paring or X-Acto knife, with a large X, tic-tac-toe square, or a flower petal design. You choose. This is the “baker’s mark.” It allows air to escape and creates “ears” on the top of the loaf. Place the pot in the hot oven. Cover it with the hot lid. Lower the heat to 450 degrees F.

Let the bread bake for 20 to 25 minutes with the lid on. Open the oven, remove the lid, and bake for another 8 to 12 minutes with the lid off. The internal temperature of the bread should be 190 to 210 degrees F when done. The shaft of your thermometer should come out clean. The ears will have peeled back and browned on their edges.

With a large spoon, scoop the hot bread out of the pot onto a cooling rack. Cool your boule for at least an hour before slicing.

KNEAD TO KNOW

I’m Afraid I’ll Burn Myself When I Flip the Bread into a Hot Pot, or Maybe I’ll Toss It on the Floor. How Can I Prevent That?

I’ve never tossed it on the floor (there’s a first for everything), but I’ve definitely flipped the dough in a little catawampus. This technique does require practice. I recommend keeping a sharp focus and flipping with confidence and decisiveness. Most mistakes I’ve made have happened when I was hesitant. If the idea (or practice) of flipping continues to jangle you, consider buying a bread-baking cloche—basically a combination of the baking stone and a Dutch oven. This clay baking pan has a flat, round bottom (like a plate), which holds the bread, and a pretty bell-shaped lid that covers the top when baking. No flipping required. Or, if it’s the chance of a burn that rattles you, consider buying a pair of heat-resistant gloves.

SESAME CRUST FOR THE RUSTIC SOURDOUGH BOULE

Simply coating the crust with colorful seeds adds a delightfully crunchy texture and toasty flavor to the loaf, and it’s so pretty!

Hands-on time: 5 to 7 minutes | Makes 6 tablespoons (enough seeds to coat the tops of 3 loaves)

2 tablespoons brown sesame seeds

2 tablespoons black sesame seeds

2 tablespoons red quinoa

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the seeds and stir continuously, until the seeds begin to pop and give off a sesame aroma (around 3 or 4 minutes). Remove from the heat immediately. Once cooled, store in a jar, where they will keep in the refrigerator or freezer for up to 6 months.

Follow directions for the boule as written.

Once you have formed the boule, but before you have put it into the banneton, basket, or colander, place 2 tablespoons of the toasted seeds on a large dinner plate. Wet your hands with water and lightly moisturize the top of the loaf. Quickly place the top of the boule onto the plate of seeds for just a second, and then put it directly into the proofing basket with floured cloth, seed side down. The boule will have taken up most of the seeds. Proceed as written for the final proofing and baking.

Sesame Crust for the Rustic Sourdough Boule

Crème Fraîche Butter with Sea Salt

Because what could be better than whole grain sourdough bread with butter? Choose the cultured variety—cream inoculated with strains of lactic bacteria before being made into butter—to add even more probiotic goodness!

Hands-on time: 5 minutes | Makes ½ cup

¼ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

¼ cup Crème Fraîche, homemade (recipe follows) or store-bought, at room temperature

½ teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt

In a medium bowl, add the butter and crème fraîche. Using an electric mixer on low, cream until smooth and well blended.

Using a rubber spatula, fold in the salt a little at a time. Taste at intervals and adjust the salt to your liking. Refrigerate 5 to 10 minutes to firm the butter up, but keep it spreadable. The butter will keep, refrigerated, for 2 weeks or more.

VARIATIONS

ORANGE SWEETIE BUTTER: Add 1 tablespoon honey and 1 teaspoon orange zest in place of coarse sea salt.

FRESH ROSEMARY BUTTER: Add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary in addition to the coarse sea salt.

MAKE YOUR OWN CRÈME FRAÎCHE

It’s totally fun to watch cream transform into this mellower version of sour cream. What to do with the remaining buttermilk? Try Buttermilk Sourdough Biscuits (this page).

Hands-on time: 5 minutes | Hands-off time: 24 hours | Makes 1 cup

1 cup heavy cream (NOT ultra-pasteurized)

1 tablespoon cultured buttermilk

Grab a clean one-pint glass jar with a lid. Pour the heavy cream into the jar. Add the buttermilk and gently stir the mixture a few times with a clean spoon.

Secure some cheesecloth over the top of the jar with a rubber band, then set it on the counter. Set the lid aside. Leave the jar alone. The microbes in the buttermilk will change the liquid into a gloriously thick cream, similar to the texture of pudding. The process will take 24 to 36 hours. It all depends on the temperature of the room and the strength of the buttermilk microbes.

Check it after 24 hours by gently jiggling the jar. Not there yet? Leave it for another 6 hours and check again. Once it has thickened, put the lid on the jar and put it in the refrigerator. Fully cooled, it will thicken more. Crème fraîche will keep in the refrigerator for around 2 weeks, getting slightly tangier with time.

Bon Jour French Onion and Mushroom Soup

Once again, time is used to build magnificent flavor by letting the soup have a good nap. If cutting up onions makes you cry, here are three tear-prevention tricks:

• Cut the onion under the air vent (obviously with the vent on).

• Wear goggles. (Send me a picture.)

• Stick the onions in the freezer for 15 minutes before cutting them.

Hands-on time: 1 hour | Hands-off time: 1 to 8 hours | Makes 6 servings

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

2½ pounds (3 to 4 medium) onions, cut into 1/8-inch half-moons

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1 large shallot, diced

½ pound (8 to 10) button or crimini mushrooms, sliced

½ cup wine or sherry

2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme (or 2 teaspoons dried)

Freshly ground black pepper

3 cups beef or mushroom stock (see Note)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3 slices Rustic Sourdough Boule (this page), toasted

½ pound Swiss or Emmenthal cheese, grated

In a heavy 6- to 8-quart soup pot over low to medium heat, add 3 tablespoons of the butter. Once the butter is melted and lightly sizzling, add the onions, making sure you hear a sizzle as the first ones hit the heat. Caramelizing this big pot of onions takes time and frequent attention, 45 to 50 minutes. Listen for a constant soft sizzling sound. The onions in the pot will need to be turned every few minutes. Make sure all the onions touch the bottom of the pan during the sequence. Tune in to how the sound changes as they soften.

Once the onions are totally caramelized and golden, add the remaining tablespoon of butter and the salt, shallot, and mushrooms and stir. Once the mushrooms are soft, add the wine, thyme, and several grinds of black pepper. Fold the bottom up to the top several times.

Taste the stock you have decided to use. You need to know if it is salty or heavy-tasting and adjust accordingly. Stocks can be light with barely any taste, or decidedly thick and overwhelming. If your stock tends toward the latter, dilute it by half with water.

Bring the soup to an active simmer (slightly bubbling), cover the pot, and maintain the simmer for 15 minutes. At this point, the soup needs a nap. It can rest for an hour or it can slumber overnight in a cold place (like the refrigerator or a cold part of the basement in winter). This snooze does wonders in allowing the onions et al. to express their flavor into the liquid of the soup.

Preheat your oven broiler.

After the rest period, reheat the soup. Stir in the mustard, then taste. Add more salt and pepper if needed. Place six large or eight small oven-proof soup bowls on a baking sheet. Divide the soup into the bowls. Put a square piece of toasted Rustic Sourdough Boule in each bowl and several tablespoons of cheese on top of the toast. Place the baking sheet with bowls under the broiler until the cheese melts, 60 to 90 seconds, and serve immediately.

NOTE: The stock for French onion soup is traditionally beef broth or a combination of chicken and beef broth. This gives the soup that familiar, deep, meaty flavor. Using mushroom or vegetable stock makes this a vegetarian soup, lighter in both color and flavor.

Orange, Pecan, and Fig Sourdough Batards

Here I’ve juxtaposed subtly sweet with noticeably sour for some gratifying bites of bread. A multilayered texture in the crumb is introduced by the crunchy pecans and chewy figs.

Hands-on time: 20 to 30 minutes | Hands-off time: 10 to 12 hours
Makes two 10- to 12-inch batards

For the sponge

5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole white wheat flour

½ cup sourdough starter

½ cup lukewarm water

For the soaker

5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole white wheat flour

5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole wheat flour

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

1 cup lukewarm water

For the dough

2 to 3 tablespoons lukewarm water

3 tablespoons brown sugar, divided

¼ to ½ teaspoon active dry yeast

1½ teaspoons ground cardamom

1 tablespoon orange zest

2.5 to 3.75 ounces (½ to ¾ cup) unbleached white flour

½ cup dried figs, chopped into small pieces

½ cup pecans, chopped

½ teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons cornmeal

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a large mixing bowl, combine 5 ounces of flour and the starter. Add the water a little at a time until you obtain the consistency of stretchy muffin batter. A Danish dough whisk is useful but not necessary. Give the mixture several vigorous stirs. You may be tempted to increase the water to the sponge and soaker to make stirring easier. Be cautious. Too much water can result in needing more flour later, creating larger loaves and different bake times. Cover the bowl with a plastic bag and a dish towel.

PREPARING THE SOAKER

In a separate medium-size bowl, place the 10 ounces of wheat flour and the salt for soaking. Add water a little at a time. Stir, making sure that all of the flour is wet. The mixture will be thicker than the sponge—like sticky cookie dough. Cover this bowl with a plastic bag and a dish towel, and leave on the counter. Allow both the sponge and soaker to rest for 8 to 10 hours (up to 12 is okay too).

BUILDING THE DOUGH

Peek in at your sponge and make sure the starter is active (a few bubbles). When you stir it, you will see the mixture stretch like taffy. These are indications that the cultures are active and the gluten is developed.

In a small bowl or cup, add lukewarm water and a pinch of the brown sugar. Sprinkle in the yeast. Let it brew for 5 minutes, until the mixture is active and bubbly. Add the yeast with water, cardamom, remaining scant 3 tablespoons of brown sugar, and orange zest to the sponge and stir vigorously for a minute. Let the mixture sit for 10 to 15 minutes if possible.

Stir the soaked whole grain flours into the active sponge. Add the thick strands of glop (because that is what it looks like) a small portion at a time and stir. This requires some effort. When the dough is mostly even, move on.

Start adding the unbleached white bread flour ¼ cup at a time. You should not need all of it to get the dough to come together. Start by stirring the flour into the dough, and then by moving your floured hands down the side of the bowl and turning the dough into itself. Once the dough comes together, you should be able to remove the dough carefully to a floured surface.

Fold the dough in on itself, turn it, and fold again. Re-flour your hands if needed, but try not to add any more flour than is necessary to prevent stickiness. Keep this up for 2 to 3 minutes. Once you can press the dough and it bounces back, stop. Flatten the dough, sprinkle the figs and pecans on top, and gently press them in. Fold the dough in half to cover the figs and pecans, then knead a few times until these additions are evenly distributed. This dough is going to feel heavier than other doughs because of the figs and pecans.

Clean and dry your bowl, and lightly coat it with the extra-virgin olive oil. Add the dough. Turn it over once or twice to lightly oil the surface. Cover with the same plastic and dish towel. Set it in a warm place (78 to 82 degrees F) and allow it to rise for 1½ to 2 hours.

FORMING THE BATARDS

Place a pizza stone in the oven and preheat the oven to 500 degrees F.

Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Press it gently and divide it into two equal parts, about 1¼ pounds each. Press each part into a rectangular shape, about 8 by 6 inches. For each of the two pieces of dough, fold the top long side toward the center, making a little corridor with your fingertips. Then fold the bottom long side in to meet the center. Now fold the bottom half onto the top half. Press the seam together with the heel of your hand or with your fingertips. Gently rock and roll the loaf, rounding the dough and tightening the skin, forming a 9- to 10-inch-long shape with slightly tapered ends (the batard or football shape).

Lightly dust a pizza peel with cornmeal and place the batards on the peel. Cover loosely with a plastic bag and set on the counter for 30 to 60 minutes.

BAKING THE BREAD

Score the top of each loaf with 3 or 4 angled lines. Slide the loaves onto the pizza stone. Lower the heat to 450 degrees F. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the loaf reaches 190 to 210 degrees F. The shaft of your thermometer should come out perfectly clean and thumping the bread should yield a hollow sound. For a crisper crust, spray the loaves with water a couple of times during the baking.

Remove the loaves from the oven onto a cooling rack. Cool the batards at least an hour before slicing.

KNEAD TO KNOW

Why the “Soaker” (Soaking Flour)?

When you soak whole grain flour, some pretty cool things happen. The water tricks the grain into thinking it’s time to germinate, which releases enzymes that start breaking down starches in the grain. Those starches provide immediate food for the microorganisms in the starter. So, when soaked flour meets the sponge with starter, the microorganisms receive readily available food and proliferate. The soaking also softens the sharp edges of the bran (fiber) inherent in whole grains, which can otherwise cut gluten strands and weaken the structure (less rise).

Cheese and Fig Bread Bites

I found that topping the Orange, Pecan, and Fig Sourdough Batard (this page) with a simple cheese and colorful garnish was best. The flavors in the bread were able to shine through and the cheese added a perfect creamy texture.

Hands-on time: 10 minutes | Makes 12 to 15 appetizers

½ Orange, Pecan, and Fig Sourdough Batard, cut into ½-inch-thick slices

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

4 ounces of cheese

Garnish choices below

Preheat your oven broiler. Cut the slices of bread into equal-size pieces (some of the larger ones will need to be halved); you should have twelve to fifteen pieces of bread that will provide two or three bite-size appetizers. On a baking sheet, arrange the bread pieces and lightly butter each one. Place the sheet under the broiler and lightly toast the bread for about 90 seconds, just until the butter melts.

Remove the toast from the oven and let cool. Top each piece with a thin slice or smear of cheese and a garnish of your choice. Arrange on a platter and serve.

CHEESE	GARNISH
Brie	Dab of Blueberry Port Wine Jam (this page)
Cream cheese	Squiggle of red pepper jelly
Goat cheese	A few leaves of baby arugula
Cheddar	Thin apple slices
Manchego	Folded layer of serrano ham
Mascarpone	Slice of fresh fig

Figgy French Toast

Change up the norm by fixing this 1950s breakfast classic with some twenty-first-century sourdough bread.

Hands-on time: 10 minutes | Makes 6 slices of French toast

2 eggs

⅔ cup milk

¼ to ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon unsalted butter or oil for skillet/griddle

6 (1-inch-thick) slices of Orange, Pecan, and Fig Sourdough Batard (this page)

Maple syrup, for serving (optional)

1 cup fresh berries, for serving (optional)

In a shallow baking dish or bowl, add the eggs, milk, cinnamon, and salt. Whisk together until smooth.

Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Lightly coat it with butter or oil. Place the bread slices in the egg mixture, allowing the slices to soak up the liquid for a minute or two on each side.

Using a large fork, transfer the bread slices to the hot pan. Cook for about 1 minute on each side, until nicely browned. Serve hot with additional butter, and perhaps a splash of maple syrup or some fresh berries.

Sourdough Pain Complet with Poppy Seed, Quinoa, and Polenta

The French label a loaf of all whole wheat bread pain complet, referring to the grain in the bread (pain) being complete with bran and germ. In addition to being made from a hundred percent whole grain flour, the extra whole grains in this recipe add appealing texture and flavor to the crumb.

Hands-on time: 20 to 30 minutes | Hands-off time: 10½ to 13½ hours
Makes one 8-inch-round loaf (boule)

For the sponge

5 ounces (about 1 cup) whole white wheat flour

½ cup sourdough starter

½ cup lukewarm water

For the soaker

7.5 ounces (about 1½ cups) whole wheat flour

2.25 ounces (about ½ cup) rye flour

2½ teaspoons fine sea salt or kosher salt

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

2 tablespoons red quinoa

2 tablespoons polenta

1 cup lukewarm water

For the dough

2 to 3 tablespoons lukewarm water

Pinch of sugar

½ teaspoon active dry yeast

3.25 ounces (about ¾ cup) whole white wheat flour

½ teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

PREPARING THE SPONGE

In a large mixing bowl, combine the whole white wheat flour and starter. Add water a little at a time until you obtain the consistency of stretchy porridge. You may be tempted to increase the water in the sponge and soaker to make stirring easier. Try not to. Too much water can result in needing more flour later, creating larger loaves and different bake times. Give the mixture several vigorous stirs, then cover the bowl with a plastic bag and a dish towel. Let the bowl rest at room temperature, around 70 degrees F.

PREPARING THE SOAKER

In a separate bowl, add the whole wheat flour, rye flour, and salt. Next, add the poppy seeds, quinoa, and polenta and stir to get an even mixture. Add water a little at a time as you stir, making sure that all of the flour is wet. The mixture will be thicker than the sponge—like super-sticky cookie dough. The soaking helps soften the bran in the whole grains, making it easier for the heat and air to elevate the dough during baking. Cover this bowl with a plastic bag and a dish towel, and leave on the counter. Allow both the sponge and soaker to rest for 8 to 10 hours (up to 12 is okay too).

BUILDING THE DOUGH

After the long fermentation, peek at your sourdough sponge. The activity of the starter should have created a few bubbles. When you stir it, you will see the mixture stretch like taffy. These are good signs. It means the cultures are active, the gluten developed.

In a small bowl, add the lukewarm water and sugar. Sprinkle in the yeast and let it brew for 5 minutes, until the mixture is visibly active. Add the yeast with water to the sponge and stir vigorously for a minute. If time allows, let the mixture sit and acclimate for 10 to 15 minutes. (Make a cup of tea!)

Stir the soaker flours into the sponge. Add the thick strands of glop (because that is what it looks like) a portion at a time and stir vigorously. When the dough is even, move on.

Start adding the remaining whole white bread flour a little at a time. You can stir the first amount in with a wooden spoon or Danish dough whisk. After that, the flour can be worked in by moving your floured hands down the side of the bowl and turning the dough into itself. Once the dough is collected and there are no more wet areas, you should be able to remove the dough carefully to a floured surface and fold it in on itself several times (gentle kneading) for 3 to 4 minutes. The dough may seem a little soft and wobbly, but it should not stick to your hands. Do not increase the amount of flour by too much. Finish by forming the dough into a round loaf shape.

Clean and dry your bowl, then lightly coat it with the extra-virgin olive oil. Add the dough. Turn it over once or twice to lightly oil the surface. Cover with the same plastic and dish towel. Set it in a warm place (78 to 82 degrees F) and allow it to rise for 2 to 3 hours. The temperature of the room and the dough are critical for rising.

FORMING THE BOULE

Place a 4- or 6-quart cast-iron pot with its lid to the side in the oven, then preheat the oven to 500 degrees F.

Line a banneton, round basket, or a medium colander with a piece of muslin or a flour-sack towel. Sprinkle a teaspoon or two of unbleached white flour into the cloth and give it a little shake to dust the cloth.

Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Press the dough to deflate it, making a large, flat disk. Pick up a small section of the edge of the dough and press it toward the center. Continue doing this, overlapping the edge of each new section with the previous one, pleating the dough toward the middle like flower petals. Flip the dough over and begin constructing a tight surface by rolling the edges of the boule to the underside. This will become rhythmic with practice. Rolling, turning the dough an inch or two, rolling, and turning, until you have moved all the way around the loaf and formed a boule with a surface that looks stretched and springs back to the touch.

Place the rounded dough into the basket with the tight surface down, the seam side up (upside down). There will likely be some gaps on the bottom of the boule. Pinch and mend so there are no open areas. Cover loosely with your plastic bag and let rise for 30 minutes in a warm place.

BAKING THE BREAD

Uncover your ready-to-bake boule. Remove the hot pot (not the lid) from the oven to your stovetop using oven mitts. Remove any covering on the bread, fold back the muslin cloth, and quickly flip the loaf into the hot pot so that it is resting in the center of the pot, right side up. This is tricky business because the dough is still soft and a little unwieldy, and the pot is super-hot. Be careful not to touch the pot or you will get an instant burn. Don’t hesitate. Flip the boule briskly and efficiently into the center of the pot.

Score the top of the loaf, using a paring or X-Acto knife, with a large X or a tic-tac-toe square. This is the “baker’s mark.” It allows air to escape and creates “ears” on the top of the loaf. Place the pot in the hot oven.

Cover the pot with the hot lid, turn the heat down to 450 degrees F, and let the bread bake for 20 minutes with the lid on and then 8 to 12 minutes with the lid off. Check the temperature at the 8-minute mark. The internal temperature of the bread should be 190 to 210 degrees F when done. The thermometer should come out perfectly clean, the ears will have peeled back slightly and browned on their edges, and thumping the bread should yield a hollow sound.

With a large spoon and a hot pad, scoop the hot bread out of the pot onto a cooling rack. Cool your boule for at least an hour before slicing.

Winter Greens Vegetarian Caesar

All hearty, dark greens work well in this recipe. If you choose curly-leaf kale, as opposed to lacinato, you may want to massage it a bit more than the directions say because it has tougher leaves. For a truly vegetarian salad, choose vegan Worcestershire sauce (no anchovies in the ingredients).

Hands-on time: 15 minutes | Makes 4 to 6 servings

For the dressing

¼ cup mayonnaise or Avocado Aioli (this page)

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 2 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the salad

8 ounces Swiss chard, stems removed, torn into bite-size pieces

5 ounces kale, stems removed, torn into bite-size pieces

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

3 ounces baby arugula

½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese

1 hard-cooked egg, sliced

Freshly ground black pepper

In a blender, add the mayonnaise, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, vinegar, mustard, and sugar. Blend until smooth. Turn the blender on low and slowly add the extra-virgin olive oil to emulsify. Taste, and adjust the sugar, salt (which comes from the Worcestershire sauce), and acid (lemon juice or vinegar) to your liking.

In a large bowl, add the chard, kale, and salt. Using your hands, massage the chard and kale with the salt for 2 minutes, until the leaves begin to soften. Add the arugula and cheese, and toss.

Add the dressing to the greens just before serving. Toss well, garnish with the egg slices and black pepper, and serve.

Fresh Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano

This savory soup pairs perfectly with slices of Sourdough Pain Complet (this page) on the side, which can be dunked in the creamy broth. Consider making this soup in late summer when the ingredients are at peak flavor. When shopping for corn, check out the tassel end of the ear. Pass by the ones where the threads are dark or there’s rot. Find gold, sticky tassels. Pay attention to the color of the husk too. Bright green and tightly wrapped against the cob indicates freshness. Feel the kernels through the husk. You want to make sure that they’re plump and plentiful; if you can feel holes where kernels should be, choose another ear.

Hands-on time: 30 minutes | Hands-off time: 30 minutes | Makes 6 to 8 servings

3 medium ears of sweet corn (about 2 cups of kernels)

3 strips of bacon, cut into ½ -inch pieces (optional)

1 small onion, diced

1 pound (2 medium) yellow Finn potatoes, cubed

1½ cups chicken stock

¾ cup water

2 teaspoons fine sea salt or kosher salt

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

2 medium poblano chilies

1 cup cream, at room temperature

3 medium Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

8 to 10 leaves fresh basil, chopped, for garnish

Take the outer husks off of the corn and remove the silks. Place an ear of corn, pointed downward, into a large bowl and, at an angle, slide your knife down the sides of the ear, removing the kernels. Then, using the back of the knife, scrape the cob over the bowl to release all the milk. Do this with each ear, then set your bowl with corn aside.

In a large soup pot over medium-high heat, fry the bacon. (If opting not to use bacon, add about 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil to the pot.) When the bacon hits the warmed pot, listen for the sizzle. When the sizzle begins to subside, it’s time to flip the strips. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain, leaving at least 2 tablespoons of the fat in the pot. Once the bacon is slightly cooled, crumble it and set aside.

Add the onion to the fat, lower the heat to medium, and sauté gently. Stir occasionally until the onions are translucent and golden, at least 10 minutes. Remember, the longer the better with onions.

Add the potatoes, chicken stock, water, salt, sugar, and allspice and stir well. Bring the heat up until you notice that the mixture begins to simmer. Finding a simmer is a watching and listening exercise. The liquid is in motion but only a few bubbles break the surface. Once a simmer is established, reduce the heat to low and cover the pot. Set a timer for 20 minutes.

While the soup is simmering, roast the peppers. Set the poblano chilies very near the flame of a lighted gas burner (in a baking pan under the broiler works too). You will need a set of tongs to keep turning the pepper every few minutes so that every inch of the skins blisters black. When all sides are charred, put the peppers in a brown paper bag until they are cool enough to handle. Then peel the charred skin off in a bowl of cold water or in the sink under a little stream of cold water. Cut each pepper in half, de-seed, and discard the stem. Dice the chilies. Check the soup after 20 minutes. When the potato pieces are fork tender, the soup is ready for the next step.

Stir the cream into the soup along with the tomatoes, poblano pieces, bacon, and corn kernels (including their “milk”) and bring the heat up to coax the soup into a soft simmer. Let the soup make a quiet bubbling noise for 5 to 10 minutes.

Remove the soup from the heat and season with black pepper to taste. Check and adjust the salt (potatoes steal a lot of salt so more may be needed). Ladle the chowder into bowls and serve garnished with chopped basil.

1 cup barley flour	4 ounces
1 cup rye flour	4.5 ounces
1 cup unbleached white (bread) flour	5 ounces
1 cup whole wheat (bread) flour	5 ounces
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour	4.5 ounces
1 cup whole white wheat flour	4.5 ounces

Thoughts on Bread-Making Trendiness

THE SPONGE

TO KNEAD OR NOT

GETTING A RISE

Weigh Flour for More Consistent Outcomes

FOR LUKEWARM WATER

FOR STARTING A STARTER

FOR RISING DOUGH

FOR STORING BREAD

How to Store Sourdough Bread

ON THE COUNTER

FREEZE IT

SAY NO TO THE REFRIGERATOR

SOME BREADS ARE JUST BEST FRESH