Around Malang

The lush, palm-dappled rice and corn fields around Malang are scattered with evocative Hindu and Buddhist ruins, making for a fun half-day road trip.

Singosari Temples

The Singosari temples lie in a ring around Malang and are mostly funerary temples dedicated to the kings of the Singosari dynasty (AD 1222–92), the precursors of the Majapahit kingdom.

Tumpang is also home to the Mangun Dhama Arts Centre (%034-178 7907), which has Javanese dance classes and performances, plus some gamelan, wayang and woodcarving courses. Wayang kulit and dance shows can be staged if pre-arranged, and books, dance DVDs, masks, puppets and batik are usually for sale.

If coming from Singosari, go to Blimbing where the road to Tumpang branches off the highway, and then catch a minibus. In Tumpang, the temple is only a short stroll from the main road.

1Sights

Candi SingosariHINDU TEMPLE

(h7am-5pm)F

Situated right in the village of Singosari, 12km north of Malang, this temple stands 500m off the main Malang–Surabaya road. One of the last monuments erected to the Singosari dynasty, it was built in 1304 in honour of King Kertanegara, the fifth and last Singosari king, who died in 1292 in a palace uprising.

The main structure of the temple was completed, but for some reason the sculptors never finished their task. Only the top part has any ornamentation and the kala heads have been left strangely stark. Of the statues that once inhabited the temple’s chambers, only the statue of Agastya (the Shivaite teacher who, legend has it, walked across the water to Java) remains. The statues of Durga and Ganesha that were in the temple are now exhibited in the National Museum in Jakarta. As a result, it lacks the atmosphere of some of the other temples in the area, but locals do still visit to meditate and leave offerings, which is interesting to see.

About 200m beyond the temple are two enormous figures of dwarapala (guardians against evil spirits) wearing clusters of skulls and twisted serpents.

To reach Singosari, take a green angkot (5000Rp) from Malang’s Arjosari bus terminal and get off at the Singosari market on the highway.

Candi SumberawanBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(h7am-5pm)F

This small, squat Buddhist stupa lies in the terraced, cultivated foothills of Gunung Arjuna, about 5km northwest of Singosari. It was built to commemorate the 1359 visit of Hayam Wuruk, the great Majapahit king. Within the temple grounds are a lingam stone and the crumbling origins of additional stupa along with the remains of recent offerings. But what makes it special is the approach.

You'll walk from the main village road – a checkerboard of tarps layered with drying corn – down a 400m dirt path, which parallels a canal, through the rice fields until you reach the ruins. Young men use the canal for bathing, so don’t be surprised to see a naked body or two en route to the stupa. In Javanese culture it’s polite to avert your eyes – the boys will duck down into the water in fits of giggles as you pass. Opposite the temple is a spring – the source of the gurgling canal – where locals go to cool off on sweltering weekends.

Take an angkot (3000Rp) from Singosari pasar (market) on the highway to Desa Sumberawan, then walk 500m down the road to the canal and the dirt path.

Candi JagoTEMPLE

(Jajaghu; admission 25,000Rp; h7am-5pm)

Along a small road near the market in Tumpang, 22km from Malang, Candi Jago was built between 1268 and 1280 and is thought to be a memorial to the fourth Singosari king, Vishnuvardhana. The temple has some interesting decorative carving from the Jataka and the Mahabharata, carved in the three-dimensional, wayang kulit–style typical of East Java.

This primarily Buddhist temple also has Javanese-Hindu statues, including a headless, six-armed, death-dealing goddess, a massive fanged Garuda, and a lingam, the symbol of Shiva’s male potency. The best part is that you can scramble up the loosely restored temple to the top (watch your step) for exquisite views.

To reach Candi Jago take a white angkot from Malang’s Arjosari bus terminal to Tumpang (4000Rp).

Candi KidalHINDU TEMPLE

(admission 5000Rp; h7am-4pm)

Set in the village of Kidal, with houses rising all around – along with one conspicuously clucking chicken farm – this graceful temple was built around 1260 as the burial shrine of King Anusapati (the second Singosari king, who died in 1248). Now 12m high, it originally topped 17m and is an example of East Javanese architecture. Its slender form has pictures of the Garuda (mythical man-bird) on three sides, plus bold, glowering kala heads and medallions of the haruna.

Two kala makara (dragons) guard the steps – one is male and the other female. It remains a pilgrimage site and you will see the remains of offerings left within the shrine.

Hourly brown angkot (3000Rp) run from Tumpang market to Candi Kidal; the last one returns at 4pm.

Purwodadi

The Kebun Raya Purwodadi (admission 5000Rp, tours 15,000Rp; h8am-4pm) are expansive dry-climate botanical gardens. The 85 hectares are beautifully landscaped and contain more than 3000 species, including 80 kinds of palm, a huge fern collection, a Mexican section, myriad orchids and many varieties of bamboo. The garden office to the south of the entrance has a map and leaflets. Air Terjun Cobanbaung is a high waterfall next to the gardens.

The gardens are easily reached; take any bus (10,000Rp) from Malang to Surabaya and ask to be dropped off at the entrance, which is 3km north of the town of Lawang.

Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo Reserve

This reserve includes the dormant volcano Gunung Arjuna (3339m), the semi-active Gunung Welirang (3156m) and the Lalijiwo Plateau on the northern slopes of Arjuna. Experienced and well-equipped hikers can walk from the resort town of Tretes to Selekta in two days, but you need a guide to go all the way. Alternatively, you can climb Welirang from Tretes or Lawang.

A well-used hiking path, popular with students on weekends and holidays, and also with soul-searchers who come to meditate on the mountain, begins in Tretes near the Kakak Bodo Recreation Reserve. Get information from the PHKA post (%081 2178 8956; Jl Wilis 523) in the northern reaches of the town. Guides can be hired here for 300,000Rp to 400,000Rp per day; allow two days to climb one mountain and three days for both.

It’s a hard, five-hour walk (17km) to the very basic huts used by the Gunung Welirang sulphur collectors. Hikers usually stay overnight here in order to reach the summit before the clouds roll in around mid-morning. Bring your own camping gear, food and drinking water (or hire it all at the PHKA post for around 200,000Rp per day), and be prepared for freezing conditions. From the huts it’s a 4km climb to the summit. Allow at least six hours in total for the ascent, and 4½ hours for the descent.

The trail passes Lalijiwo Plateau, a superb alpine meadow, from where a trail leads to Gunung Arjuna, the more demanding peak. From Arjuna, a trail leads down the southern side to Junggo, near Selekta and Batu. It’s a five-hour descent from Arjuna this way; a guide is essential.

8Getting There & Away

To get to the start of the hike, take a bus to Pandaan (15,000Rp) from Malang or Surabaya and then a minibus to Tretes (10,000Rp).

Gunung Penanggungan

The remains of no fewer than 81 temples are scattered over the slopes of Gunung Penanggungan (1650m). This sacred Hindu mountain is said to be the peak of Mt Mahameru, which according to legend broke off and landed at its present site when Mt Mahameru was transported from India to Indonesia.

Historically this was a very important pilgrimage site for Hindus, and a few Javanese mystics, meditators and Hindus still visit the mountain today. Pilgrims make their way to the top of the mountain and stop to bathe in the holy springs adorned with Hindu statuary. The two main bathing places are Candi Jolotundo and Candi Belahan, the best examples of remaining Hindu art. Both are difficult to reach.

In a stunning setting on the evergreen western slopes of Penanggungan, the PPLH Environmental Education Centre (%032-1722 1045; dm/bungalows 25,000/275,000Rp) is a supremely relaxing and interesting place. It's mainly set up to teach groups about the merits of organic agriculture, composting and garbage management. Expert guides can be hired for hikes (about 200,000Rp per day) and they'll gladly explain about plants used for herbal medicines. There’s an organic restaurant and good, rustic accommodation is available in pretty bungalows with outdoor bathrooms, or in more basic dorms. School groups pass through from time to time, disturbing the tranquility somewhat, but most of the time it's very peaceful. To get there, take a Trawas-bound minibus (8000Rp) from Pandaan and an ojek (20,000Rp) from Trawas.

Batu

%0341 / Pop 88,000

Batu, 15km northwest of Malang, is a large hill resort on the lower reaches of Gunung Arjuna, surrounded by volcanic peaks. It's a popular weekend destination for locals, but makes a relaxed base during the week if you want to avoid staying in Malang.

There are several banks.

1Sights & Activities

SonggoritiHOT SPRINGS

(admission 20,000Rp; h7.30am-5pm)

Songgoriti, 3km west of Batu, has well-known hot springs and a small, ancient Hindu temple on the grounds of the Hotel Air Panas Songgoriti. Nearby, Pasar Wisata is a tourist market selling mostly apples, bonsai plants and volcanic stone mortars and pestles. The waterfall Air Terjun Cubanrondo (admission 10,000Rp; h7.30am-5pm) is 5km southwest of Songgoriti.

Sumber BrantasHOT SPRINGS

Higher up the mountain, the small village of Sumber Brantas, far above Selekta, is at the source of the Sungai Brantas (Brantas River). From here you can walk 2km to Air Panas Cangar (admission 10,000Rp; h7.30am-5pm), hot springs high in the mountains surrounded by forest and mist.

SelektaSWIMMING

(admission 15,000Rp; h7.30am-5pm)

Selekta, a small resort 5km further up the mountain from Batu and 1km off the main road, is home to the Pemandian Selekta, a large swimming pool with a superb setting in landscaped gardens.

4Sleeping & Eating

Accommodation is available in Batu, Songgoriti and all along the road to Selekta. Songgoriti and Selekta are small, quiet resorts; Batu has the best facilities but is more built-up. Add around 25% to prices for weekend rates.

Batu's Jl Panglima Sudirman is lined with restaurants and warungs.

Kampung LumbungLODGE$$

(%0341-540 6941; www.grahabunga.com; r/cottage from 500,000/1,300,000Rp; Ws)S

A wonderful eco-hotel where the complex resembles a traditional village and all the buildings make good use of recycled wood and solar power. There's excellent local food in the restaurant, and the natural environment is sublime here; the climate is refreshing and the air is fresh. It's a kilometre south of central Batu.

Hotel Kartika WijayaHISTORIC HOTEL$$

(%0341-592600; www.kartikawijaya.com; Jl Panglima Sudirman 127; r incl breakfast from 550,000Rp; Ws)

An imposing colonial residence in sweeping grounds dotted with palms, lawns and tennis courts. The carpeted rooms are spacious and comfortable, though not that grand.

Pantara CafeINDONESIAN$

(Jl Panglima Sudirman 123; dishes 12,000-37,000Rp)

On the main drag in Batu, the Pantara serves up delicious Javanese food in atmospheric surrounds.

8Getting There & Away

From Malang’s Landungsari bus terminal take a Kediri bus or a mikrolet to Batu (5000Rp, 40 minutes). Mikrolet connect Batu's bus terminal with the centre via Panglima Sudirman.

From the bus terminal, mikrolet run to Selekta (3000Rp, 20 minutes) and Sumber Brantas (6000Rp, 45 minutes). Mikrolet turn off to Sumber Brantas at Jurangkuwali village. For Air Panas Cangar, walk 2km straight ahead from Jurangkuwali.

You'll find plenty of ojek around Batu to get you to all of these destinations.

South-Coast Beaches

The coast south of Malang has some good beaches, but facilities are limited. Sendangbiru is a picturesque fishing village separated by a narrow channel from Pulau Sempu. This island nature reserve has a couple of lakes, Telaga Lele and Telaga Sat, both ringed by jungle. Boats can be hired (around 200,000Rp return) to get you to Sempu. Take your own provisions.

A few kilometres before Sendangbiru, a rough track to the left leads 3km to Tambakrejo, a small fishing village with a sweeping sandy bay, which (despite the surf) is generally safe for swimming.

Balekambang is best known for its picturesque Hindu temple on the small island of Pulau Ismoyo, connected by a footbridge to the beach. Balekambang is one of the most popular beaches and is crowded on weekends. There are basic guesthouses in the village.

8Getting There & Away

Minibuses from Malang’s Gadang bus terminal travel to Sendangbiru (20,000Rp, two hours), past the turn-off to Tambakrejo. For Balekambang, buses run direct from Malang for 15,000Rp.

Blitar

%0342 / Pop 132,000

A low-key provincial city, Blitar makes a good base for visiting the Panataran temple complex and the spectacular active volcano of Gunung Kelud. It’s also the home of Indonesia's first president, Sukarno; his memorial is worth checking out.

1Sights

Makam Bung KarnoMONUMENT

(admission 10,000Rp, includes entry into the museum; h7am-5pm)

At Sentul, 2km north of the town centre, former president Sukarno’s grave is marked by a massive black stone and an elaborate monument of columns and murals depicting his achievements. Sukarno (or Bung Karno) is widely regarded as the father of the Indonesian nation, although he was only reinstated as a national hero in 1978. Despite family requests that he be buried at his home in Bogor, Sukarno was buried in an unmarked grave next to his mother in Blitar.

His father’s grave was also moved here from Jakarta. It was only in 1978 that the lavish million-dollar monument was built and the gravesite was opened to visitors. There’s also a small museum devoted to the man, which has hundreds of historic photographs of Sukarno with heads of state including John F Kennedy and Ho Chi Minh.

The monument has an undeniable poignancy, and thousands of Indonesian pilgrims come here each year to pay their respects. Visitors peak around Independence Day when men and women, dressed in their best batik and jilbab, gather and chant in his honour. Sadly, as you leave, things descend abruptly into tacky consumerism as you’re directed through a seemingly never-ending maze of souvenir stalls.

A becak from Blitar town centre is around 10,000Rp. Panataran-bound angkudes (yellow minibuses; 3000Rp) pass by; ask for the makam (grave).

Museum SukarnoMUSEUM

(Jl Sultan Agung 59; admission by donation; h7am-5pm)

For a more personal look into the life of Sukarno, head for the Museum Sukarno, located in the house where he lived as a boy. Photos, revolutionary posters and memorabilia (including a Bung Karno clock) line the front room, and you can see the great man’s bedroom and check out his old Mercedes in the garage. The museum is about 1.5km from the centre of town.

Pasar LegiMARKET

Blitar’s large public market, Pasar Legi is next to the bus terminal and worth a wander.

4Sleeping & Eating

Puri PerdanaMOTEL$$

(%0342-801884; Jl Anjasmoro 78; r from 250,000Rp; aW)

Built like a motor inn, with rooms on two floors on either side of a landscaped driveway, digs are clean and tiled, low on frills but comfortable enough. Walk-in discounts can drop the price to 150,000Rp.

oTugu Sri LestariHISTORIC HOTEL$$

(%0342-801766; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Merdeka 173; incl breakfast r 375,000-1,000,000Rp; aW)

One of East Java's best hotels. The rooms in the principal building are incredibly atmospheric, with high ceilings and grand teak beds; those in the modern extension at the rear are neat and functional. Service is warm and professional, and staff are full of tips about the city and region.

There's a real sense of history throughout the main structure, a Dutch colonial building from the 1850s. Be sure to ask staff to let you see the Sukarno room (he was a frequent visitor here) where you can sit at his old desk.

Bu MamikINDONESIAN$

(Jl Kalimantan 11; mains 7500-32,000Rp; h10am-11pm)

Tasty ayam bakar (grilled chicken) is what brings droves of locals to this quaint, stilted indoor-outdoor restaurant with carved columns and twirling fans.

Waroeng Tugu BlitarINDONESIAN$

(www.tuguhotels.com/blitar; Jl Merdeka 173; mains 32,000-78,000Rp; h8am-10pm; v)

After a hot day's sightseeing, drop by this fine hotel's 'waroeng' for local specialties, including udang swarloka (deep-fried shrimp balls), tahu kembang jenar (crispy tofu stuffed with mushrooms, bean sprouts and bamboo shoots) and nasi kare ayam ny oei (chicken cooked in yellow curry served with rice).

It offers a range of full salads and Western mains too. Be sure to tour the hotel while you're here.

8Information

There are several banks in town including BCA Bank (Jl Merdeka; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat). Wi-fi is available in area hotels.

8Getting There & Away

Regular buses run from Blitar to Malang (20,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Surabaya (45,000Rp, 4½ to five hours), as well as Solo (100,000Rp, six hours). The bus terminal is 4km south of town along Jl Veteran (3000Rp by angkot from the centre). Angkudes run from the western end of Jl Merdeka to Panataran temple for 6000Rp, passing close to Makam Bung Karno; you’ll have to walk the last 300m or so.

Blitar has a few useful train connections, with three daily services heading to both Solo (160,000Rp to 465,000Rp, 4½ hours) and Yogyakarta (160,000Rp to 465,000Rp, five to 5½ hours).

Hiring a car and driver makes a lot of sense to see the sights; the Tugu hotel can organise this for 550,000Rp per day. Or hire an ojek for much less at around 100,000Rp.

Panataran

The Hindu temples (admission 3000Rp; h7am-5pm) at Panataran (locally called 'Penataran') are the largest intact Majapahit temples, and the finest examples of ancient East Javanese architecture and sculpture. Construction began in 1197, during the Singosari dynasty, with building work continuing for another 250 years. Most of the important surviving structures date from the great years of the Majapahit kingdom during the 14th century.

Around the base of the first-level platform, the comic-strip carvings tell the story of a test between the fat, meat-eating Bubukshah and the thin, vegetarian Gagang Aking.

Further on is the small Dated Temple, so called because of the date ‘1291’ (AD 1369) carved over the entrance. On the next level are colossal serpents snaking endlessly around the Naga Temple, which once housed valuable sacred objects.

At the rear stands the triple-tiered Mother Temple, its lowest panels depicting stories from the Ramayana. Behind is a small royal mandi (bathing tank) with a frieze depicting lizards, bulls and dragons around its walls.

Three hundred metres beyond the turn-off to the temples, the Museum Panataran (admission by donation; h8am-2pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 11am Fri) has an impressive collection of statuary from the complex, but labelling is poor.

The complex is set in a neighbourhood perched over rice fields and alive with domestic tourists, joyful children and meandering, pecking chickens. It's a lovely scene later in the day.

Panataran is 16km from Blitar (5000Rp by bus), and 3km north of the village of Nglegok.

Gunung Kelud

Around 30km directly north of Panataran, Gunung Kelud (1731m) is one of Java’s most active, accessible and rewarding volcanoes to visit, with a plunging crater, steaming vents and a small crater lake. Kelud is in a near-permanent state of growl – an eruption in 1919 killed 5000 people and one in 2007 sent smoke 2.5km into the air and created a 250m-high cone within the caldera.

To get to the crater itself you have to walk through a 200m tunnel, built under the Japanese occupation. A torch (flashlight) isn't necessary but will reveal many bats. To get the best perspective of Kelud you need to hike a steep path up the side of the crater.

Entrance to Gunung Kelud is controlled at a gateway (admission 110,000Rp, car 20,000Rp; h6.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Sat & Sun) 10km before the summit because of the active nature of the beast.

There’s no public transport to Kelud. The easiest way here is to hire a car or ojek from Blitar. After bargaining, the latter will do a half-day return trip via Panataran for around 100,000Rp.

Pacitan

%0357

A long way from anywhere, the small south-coast town of Pacitan lies on a horseshoe bay ringed by rocky cliffs. It's a beach resort with limited accommodation and a few fresh seafood restaurants. Few foreigners make it here; those that do are here to surf.

The blonde beach at Pacitan is set in a rather dramatic bay shaped like a stemless wine glass. The natural harbour to the west is set against the towering jungled cliffs and there's a series of decent beach breaks as it meanders east toward a fine point break.

Pantai Ria Teleng, 4km or so from town, has golden sand and good surfing conditions for beginners as the waves break over a sandy bottom. Surf and bodyboards can be hired here, and there are lifeguards. Swimming is possible when the seas are calm – the safest area is towards the fishing boats at the southwestern end of the bay.

Pacitan has several banks. If you visit during the week, off-season, you've a good chance of having a virtually deserted beach to yourself.

4Sleeping

Harry's Ocean HouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%878 9514 5533; dm 35,000Rp, hut with shared bathroom 50,000Rp, r with fan/air-con 70,000/90,000Rp, cottages 150,000-250,000Rp; a)

There are four styles of rooms on offer here: dorms, a bamboo hut, concrete rooms and stilted wooden cottages with arced roofs. The property is on a back road inland from the beach. It actually has two branches in town and another in nearby Watu Karung. It's the choice spot among backpacking surfers.

Arya HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

(r 150,000Rp)

Simple, fan-cooled titled rooms come with high slanted ceilings and friendly management on the inland road. If Harry's is booked, folks usually wind up here.

Surfer's BayHOTEL$$

(%0357-881474; r from 435,000Rp; W)

Across the street from the beach, this venerable place is under new, somewhat disinterested management. It offers old but clean tiled rooms, some with ocean views. All are a touch overpriced.

8Getting There & Around

Buses run to Pacitan from Solo (60,000Rp, 4½ hours) and also from Ponorogo (20,000Rp, 2½ hours) via a scenic road. From Ponorogo, direct buses go to Blitar (32,000Rp, three hours).

Direct travel minibuses (50,000Rp, three hours) connect Yogyakarta with Pacitan; call Aneka Jaya (%0357-304 4560) or Purwo Widodo (%027-445 1690).

There's very little public transport around Pacitan. Motorbikes with surfboard racks can be rented from some Pacitan guesthouses (50,000Rp per day).

Around Pacitan

About 13km southwest of Pacitan via a rough hilly road, stunning Watu Karung is an evocative fishing village with an arc of fine white sand and turquoise water offshore. This is one of Java's best surf beaches, with rights and lefts and occasional barrels. As a result, more and more guesthouses have sprouted up in the area, and over 20 were in operation at research time. In many cases, fishermen have sold their boats to finance the homestays as the town tries to transition into a surfing hotspot. It remains to be seen if the economy can support such a shift or if the homestay bubble is about to burst. Case in point: Watu Karung is only busy during high season and still feels like a wonderfully sleepy tropical village most of the year.

This is also agate country, and hawkers sell reasonably priced polished stones and rings.

Watu Karung is not served by public transport; you'll need to hire a car in Pacitan or arrange transport with your guesthouse.

1Sights & Activities

At Punung village, on the Solo road 30km northwest of Pacitan, is the turn-off to some magnificent limestone caves. Goa Putri is 2km from the highway, and the much more impressive Gua Gong, 8km away, is the largest and most spectacular cave system in the area.

The turn-off to the more famous Gua Tabuhan (Musical Cave) is 4km north on the highway beyond Punung, and then another 4km from there. This huge limestone cavern was a refuge for prehistoric humans 50,000 years ago. Pay the resident musicians here and they'll strike up an impressive ‘orchestral’ performance by striking rocks against stalactites, each in perfect pitch, and echoing pure gamelan melodies. You must hire a guide and lamp.

4Sleeping

The homestays rent motorbikes and surfboards.

Pasir PutihHOMESTAY$

(%0852 8102 3187; s/d 150,000/200,000Rp)

Offers modern rooms with private patios overlooking the beach.

Watukarang Jungle HomestayHOMESTAY$

(%0821 4370 7246; r incl breakfast 85,000Rp)

Book a simple brick room with shared bathrooms. It also offers massages (one hour, 60,000Rp).

Istana OmbakRESORT$$$

(istanaombak.com; Jl Kerapu Milak 151; all-inclusive surf packages from US$240, walk-in room only from 800,000Rp; W)

The only resort in the area is a stunner, with comfortable thatched cottages and villas, wired with wi-fi and satellite TV. It offers solid local surf intel and spectacular family-style dinners, not to mention a luscious stretch of beach. Owned by a former pro surfer from Australia who lived in a bamboo shack while he built the place, it is by far the best sleep in the area.

Guests can use mountain bikes and pick-up in Yogyakarta and Solo is offered.

WORTH A TRIP

WHALE SHARK TOURS

Each year between January and March an annual migration causes quite a stir in Probolinggo. Twenty or more whale sharks, some measuring up to 8m, gather in the shallow seas off Pantai Benter, 8km east of the town. Boats take camera-toting local tourists on trips to see these marine giants, the world's largest fish (a harmless plankton feeder). In Javanese they're known as geger lintang ('stars on the back'), a reference to the star-like spots these sharks can be identified by. Boats only charge 10,000Rp or so per passenger. As the sea is usually very murky, snorkelling does not tend to be very rewarding.

Probolinggo

%0335 / Pop 217,000

For most travellers, Probolinggo is a bustling, featureless transit point in the fertile plains on the route to Gunung Bromo. You probably won’t want to hang around here long, but the innovative tourist information people might try to change your mind. Better to keep moving.

Dangers & Annoyances

Probolinggo's bus terminal has a poor reputation with travellers. It’s by no means dangerous, just not very honest and has more than its fair share of ticket touts eager to make a buck.

The main scam involves overcharging for bus tickets. Some reputable-looking ticket agents ask for double or more the standard price. You can check departure times and prices on the monitor in the waiting area, or head to Toto Travel. Unless it's a holiday (when you might want to book ahead) often the best thing to do is find the bus you need, and pay the fare onboard.

Also, when travelling to Probolinggo, make it clear to the ticket collector you want to be dropped off at the Bayuangga bus terminal; we’ve received emails from travellers complaining of being left at random travel agents and charged exorbitant fares for bus tickets.

Thieves are common on the buses in East Java, especially on buses departing from Probolinggo.

4Sleeping & Eating

Sinar HarapanHOTEL$

(%0335-701 0335; Jl Bengawan Solo 100; r 120,000-200,000Rp; aW)

This new hotel has a contemporary feel, but its shine is fading. It rents out motorbikes for 60,000Rp per day.

Sumber HidupCHINESE, INDONESIAN$

(Jl Dr Mosh Saleh II; mains 14,000-30,000Rp; h11.30am-10pm)

Large restaurant on the main strip that serves good Chinese food and Indonesian dishes. Doubles as an ice-cream parlour.

8Information

The efficient Tourist Information Centre (%0335-432420; www.dispobpar-kotaprobolinggo.com; Jl Suroyo; h8am-3.30pm) by the train station is trying hard to change people's perceptions of Probolinggo. Staff organise city tours and can hook you up with local schools that are looking for English speakers to help students; you only need to spare an hour or two of your time.

The main post office and most of the banks are also on Jl Suroyo, which leads off the main drag Jl Panglima Sudirman.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Probolinggo’s Bayuangga bus terminal is located about 5km from town on the road to Gunung Bromo. There are TV monitors here with bus departure information. Buses to Banyuwangi, Bondowoso and Surabaya depart frequently; most transport to Denpasar is between 7pm and 11pm. If want to make an advance reservation head to Toto Travel (%0335-443 8267; Bayuangga bus terminal ), where the owners speak English fluently.

Angkot run to/from the main street and the train station for 3000Rp.

BUSES FROM PROBOLINGGO

Destination	Cost (Rp; Economy/Air-Con)	Duration (hr)
Banyuwangi	40,000/50,000	5
Bondowoso	20,000/30,000	2½
Denpasar	125,000/150,000	11
Jember	20,000/30,000	2½
Malang	20,000/30,000	2½
Surabaya	20,000/30,000	2½-3
Yogyakarta	90,000/150,000	10-11

Minibus

Gunung Bromo minibuses leave from a stop just outside Probolinggo’s Bayuangga bus terminal, heading for Cemoro Lawang (35,000Rp, two hours) via Ngadisari (12,000Rp, 1½ hours) until around 4pm. Overcharging tourists is common on this route. Late-afternoon buses charge more to Cemoro Lawang when fewer passengers travel beyond Ngadisari. Make sure your bus goes all the way to Cemoro Lawang when you board.

Train

About 2km north of town, the train station is 6km from the bus terminal. Probolinggo is on the Surabaya–Banyuwangi line. There are four daily exclusive- and business-class trains to Surabaya, both called Mutiara Timur. Two leave late at night, at 2:21am and 2:29am, and two leave at a more reasonable 1:24pm and 1:32pm (business/executive 90,000/125,000Rp, two hours). Trains travelling east to Banyuwangi leave at 10:59am and 11:07am, and at 11.52pm and 11:59pm (economy 60,000Rp to 100,000Rp, business/executive 105,000/140,000Rp, five hours).

Angkot D (5000Rp) connects the train station with the bus terminal.

Taxi

Taxis and freelance car drivers meet trains and wait for business at the bus station. A trip up to Cemoro Lawang costs around 350,000Rp to 400,000Rp after bargaining; more if it’s late in the day.

Gunung Bromo & Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park

%0335

A lunarlike landscape of epic proportions and surreal beauty, the volcanic Bromo region is one of Indonesia’s most breathtaking sights.

Rising from the guts of the ancient Tengger caldera, Gunung Bromo (2392m) is one of three volcanoes to have emerged from a vast crater, stretching 10km across. Flanked by the peaks of Kursi (2581m) and Batok (2440m), the smouldering cone of Bromo stands in a sea of ashen, volcanic sand, surrounded by the towering cliffs of the crater’s edge. Just to the south, Gunung Semeru (3676m), Java’s highest peak and one of its most active volcanoes, throws its shadow – and occasionally its ash – over the whole scene.

The vast majority of independent travellers get to Bromo via the town of Probolinggo and stay in Cemoro Lawang where facilities are good. There are other options in villages on the road up from Probolinggo.

Additional approaches via Wonokitri and Ngadas are also possible, but due to irregular public transport and poor road conditions they're only occasionally used by small tour groups.

Gunung Bromo

Gunung Bromo is unforgettable. It's not the mountain itself, but the sheer majesty of the experience: the immense size of the entire Tengger crater, the supernatural beauty of the scenery and the dramatic highland light that will saturate your brain with tranquility – for at least a little while.

Virtually all tours are planned to enable you to experience the mountain at sunrise. This is when the great crater is at its ethereal best and colours are most impressive. But visibility is usually good throughout the day in the dry season (June to September), even though the slopes below Cemoro Lawang may be covered in mist. Later in the day you’ll also avoid the dawn crowds – things get especially busy during holiday periods. In the wet season it’s often bright and clear at dawn but quickly clouds over.

It's a short, enjoyable hike to Bromo from Cemoro Lawang. The 3km (40-minute) 'trail' wanders down the crater wall and across the eerie Laotian Pasir (Sea of Sand) to the slopes of Bromo. White stone markers are easy to follow during the day but can be more elusive in the dark. Make sure you climb the right cone; Bromo has a stone staircase. Some hikers, disoriented in the dark, have attempted to climb neighbouring Batok. If you're lucky you will share the rim with groups of Balinese or Javanese Hindu pilgrims who have come to pray to one of the three most sacred mountains in Hindu lore and make offerings in the hopes of satisfying the volcano and the gods.

After ascending the 253 steps you’ll come face to face with the steaming, sulphurous guts of the volcano. There are sweeping views back across the Laotian Pasir to the lip of the crater and over to Batok and the Hindu temple (open only on auspicious days in the pilgrim calendar) at its base.

Mercifully, there's little of the tacky commercialism (bar the odd souvenir seller) that besmirches many Indonesian scenic spots, though there is ample plastic litter on the rim (please pack your bottles and trash out). The local Tengger people may press you into accepting a horse ride across the crater bed but there’s no serious hassle. No matter how many folks are gathered on the rim, it’s still easy to connect spiritually with this sacred peak if you wander around the lip of the Bromo cone, away from the main viewing point.

History

Unsurprisingly, the eerie landscape of Bromo and its neighbouring volcanoes has spawned countless myths and legends. It is said that the Tengger crater was originally dug out with just half a coconut shell by an ogre smitten with love for a princess.

But Bromo is of particular religious significance to the Hindu Tengger people who still populate the massif. They first fled here to escape the wave of Islam that broke over the Majapahit kindgom in the 16th century. The Tengger believe that Bromo once fell within the realm of the childless King Joko Seger and Queen Roro Anteng, who asked the god of the volcano for assistance in producing an heir. The god obliged, giving them 25 children, but demanded that the youngest, a handsome boy named Dian Kusuma, be sacrificed to the flames in return. When the queen later refused to fulfil her promise, the young Dian sacrificed himself to save the kingdom from retribution.

2Activities

The classic Bromo tour peddled by all hotels and guides in Cemoro Lawang (and other villages) involves a pickup around 3.30am and a 4WD journey up to the neighbouring peak of Gunung Penanjakan (2770m). This viewpoint offers the best vistas (and photographs) of the entire Bromo landscape, with Gunung Semeru puffing away on the horizon. After sunrise, 4WDs head back down the steep lip of the crater and then over the Laotian Pasir (Sea of Sand) to the base of Bromo. It's usually easy to hook up with others for this tour to share costs. Private jeeps cost 500,000Rp. If you pay for a single seat, expect to be crammed in with four or five others, though the price (150,000Rp) is right.

Alternatively, it's a two-hour hike to the top of Gunung Penanjakan, the so-called second viewpoint, from Cemoro Lawang. But King Kong Hill – perched just 20 minutes beyond the first viewpoint, and also on Penanjakan, set on a ledge jutting out from the main trail – has even better views than the top. From here looking toward the west you'll see Bromo bathed in that dawn light, along with Gunung Batok, with Gunung Semeru photobombing from behind. It can take up to an hour to reach it, but it's a stunning walk. Just up from the village, the slopes are planted with scallions, potatoes and cauliflower. You won't see them in the dark, but they make a lovely vista on the easy downhill stroll. Trekkers can also take an interesting walk across the Laotian Pasir to the village of Ngadas (8km), below the southern rim of the Tengger crater. From here, motorbikes and 4WDs descend to Tumpang, which is connected by regular buses to Malang.

zFestivals & Events

In June, Jiwa Jawa hosts a jazz festival, Gunung Jazz (www.jazzgunung.com) with performances from international and domestic artists held in the open-air hotel grounds.

KasadaRELIGIOUS

The wrath of Bromo is appeased during the annual Kasada festival, when Tenggerese Hindus come to Bromo to make peace with the mountain, and pray for health and good harvests. During this time, local daredevils descend into the crater and attempt to catch offerings in nets (money, food and even live chickens) thrown down by others above.

It's a risky business and is as dangerous as it sounds – every few years someone slips and the volcano claims another victim. The park’s PHKA offices can tell you when Kasada occurs.

TIPS FOR VISITING BROMO

• Bromo's popularity means that during high season (July, August, Indonesian holidays and the Christmas period) and weekends, the two main viewpoints can get very crowded between sunrise and the early morning. Organised tours all follow the same schedule, so consider visiting Gunung Penanjakan and the Bromo crater at other times of day.
• Walking from Cemoro Lawang to the Bromo crater only takes around 40 minutes, and enables you to take in the scenery and get your boots dusty in the grey volcanic sands of the Laotian Pasir (Sea of Sand).
• At any time of year it’s cold in the early morning and temperatures can drop to single digits or near-freezing. Guesthouses rent out jackets for around 30,000Rp.
• The lip of the crater in Cemoro Lawang (between the Cemara Indah hotel and Lava View Lodge) has lots of viewing spots where you can savour Bromo's superb scenery away from the crowds.
• If you're unlucky and cloudy weather curtails your views of Bromo, drop by the gallery at the Java Banana hotel to see what you've missed. And then stay another day and hope that the skies clear.

4Sleeping & Eating

Cemoro Lawang

On the lip of the Tengger crater overlooking Bromo, Cemoro Lawang is a tiny, charming highland village in a spectacular location. Its relaxed atmosphere and cool climate will come as quite a relief if you've been clocking up the kilometres in Java.

Unfortunately two hotels (both Lavas) have a near-duopoly here and charge prices that are heavily inflated from the norm in Indonesia. Both operate a triple-level pricing scheme, ramping up their rates from low (5 January through April) to high (May to mid-September) and up again in peak season (mid-September to 4 January). Rates increase further (by around 20%) on selected weekends, some days in August, and over Christmas and New Year. Rates quoted here are for May to mid-September.

Tengger IndahHOMESTAY$

(Cemoro Lawang; r from 150,000Rp)

An east-facing homestay in town, a stone's throw from the rim at the junction. Prim and painted with murals on the exterior, the interiors are simple, tiled and affordable. Nothing fancy.

Cafe Lava HostelHOTEL$$

(%0335-541 020; r without bathroom from 175,000Rp, with bathroom & breakfast from 425,000Rp; W)

With a sociable vibe thanks to its streetside cafe and attractive layout (rooms are scattered down the side of a valley), this is first choice for most travellers, despite the steep prices. Economy rooms are very small but neat, and have access to a shared veranda and clean communual bathrooms (fitted with all-important hot showers).

More expensive rooms have little porches with great views and wood furniture. The restaurant serves up reasonable Indonesian and Western grub and cold Bintang.

Hotel Bromo PermaiLODGE$$

(%0335-541 049; d from 610,000Rp)

With close to the same majestic vistas as Lava View (but not quite), the tiled rooms in the wooden building are clean and come with wood-panelled ceilings and flat-screens. The dark wood rooms are the newest of the bunch. The restaurant is decked out with more of the wood panelling and is washed in classical Indonesian music.

All things considered, it's the best value on the hill.

Lava View LodgeHOTEL$$

(%0335-541009; r/bungalows from 713,000/792,000Rp; W)

This is a well-run hotel located 500m along a side road on the eastern side of the village. As it's almost on the lip of the crater, you can stumble out your door to magnificent Bromo views. It’s overpriced, but at least the wooden rooms and bungalows are comfortable enough (if dated) and staff are friendly and helpful.

There's a huge restaurant here with the usual mix of Indonesian and Western food, but beware the bad cover songs masquerading as live music some nights.

Ngadisari & Wonotoro

Yoschi’s HotelGUESTHOUSE$

(%0335-541018; www.hotelyoschi.com; r without shower 240,000Rp, with shower from 540,000Rp, cottages from 900,000Rp; iW)

This rustic place has lots of character, with bungalows and small rooms dotted around a large, leafy garden compound. However, many lack hot water and cleanliness standards could be better. There's a huge restaurant that serves up pricey Western and Indonesian food (subject to a stiff 20% service charge).

It's 4km below Bromo and tours can be arranged. Room prices rise by around 25% in high season (July to September, Christmas and New Year).

Jiwa JawaHOTEL$$$

(%0335-541193; www.jiwajawa.com; r incl breakfast 750,000-2,250,000Rp, ste/lodge from 3,630,000/4,000,000Rp, meals from 40,000Rp; W)

A kind of ultra-modern mountain lodge, this excellent place has expanded its operations in recent years and was in the midst of a name change and rebranding at press time. It has a huge selection of stylish rooms (largely built from wood) that are of a high standard, though many are quite compact.

You'll also love the elevated cafe-restaurant, which has sweeping views over villages and vegetable fields. The whole place is enhanced by the oversized prints of Indonesia, taken by the talented photographer-owner.

8Information

There are two entry posts as you drive uphill toward Cemoro Lawang and into Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park. The first will charge a mere 10,000Rp entrance fee, but the second is the real ticket. And that ticket costs 317,500Rp. Steep? Yes, but worth it. Information about trails and mountain conditions is available from the PHKA post (%0335-541038; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun) in Cemoro Lawang and also at the PHKA post (%034-357 1048; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun) on the southern outskirts of Wonokitri. Both extend their opening hours during busy periods. The park’s official office is located in Malang. There’s a BNI ATM close to the crater lip in Cemoro Lawang.

8Getting There & Away

Probolinggo is the main gateway to Bromo. Hotels in the Bromo area can book minivans to Probolinggo (35,000Rp, two hours) where you can catch long-distance buses to Yogyakarta (90,000Rp to 150,000Rp, 10 to 11 hours) and Denpasar (125,000Rp to 150,000Rp, 11 hours). Many people arrive on tours from Yogyakarta, which involves a punishing overland journey, usually in a cramped minibus. Alternatively, if you don't mind changing transport, the most comfortable (and fastest) way to cover this route is Yogyakarta to Surabaya by train, then a train or bus to Probolinggo and a minibus up to Cemoro Lawang.

Tours to Bromo are also easily organised in Malang, where you can arrange 4WD hire in hotels and travel agencies.

BROMO BY BUS

Minibus trips to Gunung Bromo (and on to Bali) are very popular with travellers. However few enjoy the experience, as the route involves a long, slow overland journey in cramped conditions. Ten-hour journeys can take 13 hours, and the air-conditioned bus promised turns out to be a rusty tin can on wheels. The most comfortable way to Bromo is to take a train (or even fly) to Surabaya and then another train or bus on to Probolinggo.

If you do decide to do the trip by minibus (from 200,000Rp, 11 to 13 hours) note that many operators often terminate short of Cemoro Lawang, and drop you off at a (poor) hostel on the way up the volcano (which is sure to be paying a commission).

Travellers also have regularly reported mysterious ‘breakdowns’ on the Bromo route, which cut into travelling time and mean that you don’t reach Cemoro Lawang. Others have experienced problems with onward connections to Bali. Purchase your ticket from a reliable agent – we suggest Great Tours – and check up-to-date information with other travellers and on Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree internet forum.

Gunung Semeru

Part of the huge Tengger Massif, the classic cone of Gunung Semeru is the highest peak in Java, at 3676m. Also known as Mahameru (Great Mountain), it is looked on by Hindus as the most sacred mountain of all and the father of Gunung Agung on Bali.

Semeru is one of Java’s most active peaks and has been in a near-constant state of eruption since 1818 – it exploded as recently as March 2009. At the time of research the mountain was open to hikers, but periodically officials will warn against attempting the summit due to volcanic acitivity.

Trekking tours from Malang usually take two (or sometimes three) days to get to the summit and back. Helios Tours in Malang charges 750,000 per person, per day for a three-day, two-night hike including all supplies, transport, meals and an English-speaking guide.

To hike the peak independently, take an angkot (10,000Rp, 45 minutes) from Malang’s Arjosari bus station to Tumpang. Here you can charter an ojek/4WD (70,000/550,000Rp) to Ranu Pani village, the start of the trek. There are several homestays (all around 100,000Rp per person) in Ranu Pani (2109m). Good ones include Pak Tasrip and Pak Tumari, both of which serve meals and can organise guides (150,000Rp per day), tents and sleeping bags (which are essential).

Hikers must register with the PHKA post (%Tumpang Office 034-178 7972), which is towards the lake in Ranu Pani. It will have the latest information about conditions – you may not be able to access the summit and may only make it as far as the Arcopodo campsite. Staff might also ask you to produce a health certificate. Expect to pay a small fee for a climbing permit and entrance for the national park (317,500Rp).

Rangers will direct you to the trailhead for Semeru. The route is lined with markers for some distance and passes three shelters, so it's difficult to get lost. You'll pass pretty Ranu Kumbolo, a crater lake (2400m), 13km or 3½ hours from Ranu Pani. The trail then crosses savannah before climbing to Kalimati (three hours), at the foot of the mountain. From Kalimati it is a steep hour-or-so climb to Arcopodo, where there is a flattish campsite.

From Arcopodo, it is a short, steep climb to the start of the volcanic sands, and then a tough three-hour climb through loose scree to the peak. Semeru explodes every half hour and the gases and belching lava make the mountain dangerous – stay well away from vents. On a clear day, there are breathtaking views of Java’s north and south coasts, as well as vistas of Bali. To see the sunrise, it is necessary to start at about 1.30am for the summit.

SEMERU ESSENTIALS

• Semeru is a highly active volcano and its status changes rapidly – check with the national park office in Malang, locally in Ranu Pani village, and also online at www.gunungbagging.com.
• Because several hikers have died of heart attacks climbing Semeru, officially you're supposed to have a health certificate to confirm that you should be able to make it there and back. These are best obtained in Malang in advance.
• Nights on the mountain are bitterly cold (often near-freezing) and inexperienced climbers have died of exposure. Make sure you have adequate gear and clothing.
• The best time of year to make the climb is May to October when you have a decent chance of clear skies and dry weather.

Bondowoso

%0332 / Pop 71,000

Bondowoso, suspended between the highlands of Tengger and Ijen, is the gateway to Bromo and Ijen and home to some of the island’s best tape, a tasty, sweet-and-sour snack made from boiled and fermented vegetable roots.

Tape tastes vaguely alcoholic and can be found on Jl PB Sudirman, where dozens of shops sell it by the basket (15,000Rp). The ‘321’ brand is reportedly the best.

It's mainly a transit and market town, tours to Ijen can be organised here. There are many (cramped) minibuses to Ijen (35,000Rp), all leaving before noon for the 2½-hour trip. Other destinations from Bondowoso include Jember (10,000Rp, 45 minutes), Probolinggo (20,000Rp to 30,000Rp, two hours) and Surabaya (normal/air-con 40,000/55,0000Rp, five hours).

4Sleeping

Palm HotelHOTEL$$

(%0332-421201; www.palm-hotel.net; Jl A Yani 32; r incl breakfast with fan & mandi 190,000Rp, with air-con 320,000-610,000Rp; aWs)

Just south of the huge, grassy alun-alun, this good-value hotel's huge, heat-busting pool makes it a great escape from Java's punishing humidity. Take your pick from simple fan-only options with cold-water mandi or smart, spacious air-conditioned rooms that show a minimalist design influence.

The brightest and most inviting are set toward the front of the main building. The restaurant is good. Transport to Ijen can be arranged (4WD costs 600,000Rp).

Ijen Plateau

The fabled Ijen Plateau is a vast volcanic region dominated by the three cones of Ijen (2368m), Merapi (2800m) and Raung (3332m). A beautiful, forested alpine area, the most dramatic scenery is yours as you wind through the rubber and clove groves, climbing up and over a pass, before dropping into an extinct crater (the so-called plateau), now home to evocative, shade-grown coffee plantations, threaded with streams and gurgling with hot springs. Along with the plantations and their company kampung, there are a few isolated settlements here. Gunung Ijen is Javanese for ‘Lonely Mountain’, after all. Access roads to the plateau are poor and perhaps because of this, visitor numbers are relatively low, though steadily increasing.

Virtually everyone who does come is here for the hike up to the spectacular crater lake of Kawah Ijen. You can see the mountain's dramatic, gaping mouth looming above the highland rim. Those kinds of sweeping vistas combined with a temperate climate make the plateau a great base for a few days up in the clouds and away from the crowds.

1Sights

Java’s finest coffee, both arabica and robusta varieties, is produced in the Ijen Plateau area, along with cacao, cloves and rubber. It’s possible to visit coffee plantations, including Kebun Balawan ; visits will usually include a wander through coffee groves and an impromptu tour of the plantation’s factory. This plantation has thermal pools and a gushing thermal waterfall (5000Rp) set amid lush jungle.

A HEAVY LOAD

The Ijen volcano produces a lot of sulphur, historically known as brimstone. Around 300 collectors (all men) work here, getting up at around 3am to hike up the crater and hack out the yellow stuff by hand. Their only protection against the cone’s noxious fumes are cotton scarves, which they tie around their noses. These DIY miners then spend the next six-or-so hours scurrying back down the volcano with 60kg to 80kg loads on their backs.

It’s arduous work that pays very little (around 800Rp per kilo), and yet the non-stop, physical exertion keeps the collectors incredibly fit. Few report health problems despite breathing great lungfuls of sulphurous fumes virtually every day of their lives. The sulphur collected is used for cosmetics and medicine, and is added to fertilizer and insecticides.

2Activities

The magnificent turquoise sulphur lake of Kawah Ijen lies at 2148m above sea level and is surrounded by the volcano’s sheer crater walls. At the edge of the lake, sulphurous smoke billows from the volcano’s vent and the lake bubbles when activity increases. Ijen’s last major eruption was in 1936, though due to an increased threat access was closed in late 2011, and again in March 2012 for a few weeks.

Ijen is a major sulphur-gathering centre and you’ll pass the collectors as you hike up the trail. Most now ask for a fee for photographs, though a cigarette will usually be accepted as payment.

The ideal time to make the Kawah Ijen hike is in the dry season between April and October. However, while the path is steep, it’s usually not too slippery, so the hike is certainly worth a try in the rainy season if you have a clear day. Make it for sunrise if you can.

The starting point for the trek to the crater is the PHKA post (admission weekdays/weekends 100,000/150,000Rp; h7am-5pm) at Pos Paltuding, which can be reached from Bondowoso or Banyuwangi. Sign in and pay your entry fee here. The steep 3km path up to the observation post (where there’s a teahouse) takes just over an hour; keep an eye out for gibbons. From the post it’s a further 30-minute walk to the lip of the wind-blasted crater and its stunning views.

From the crater rim, an extremely steep, gravelly path leads down to the sulphur deposits and the steaming lake. The walk down takes around 30 minutes; the path is slippery in parts and the sulphur fumes towards the bottom can be overwhelming. Expect burning lungs and streaming eyes if you do make it to the bottom. Take great care – a French tourist fell and died here some years ago.

Back at the lip of the crater, turn left for the climb to the highest point (2368m) and magnificent views, or keep walking counterclockwise for even more expansive vistas of the lake. On the other side of the lake, opposite the vent, the trail disappears into crumbling volcanic rock and deep ravines.

4Sleeping

This is a remote mountain region and, with little competition, the budget accommodation is pretty sketchy. The two guesthouses are run by coffee estates, whose owners clearly prioritise beans over beds. Few staff speak any English and email booking requests may or may not be answered. Room availability is also limited, so prepare yourself accordingly. However, if the lodge rooms are full, management can source local homestay options (125,000Rp to 150,000Rp) for you within moments.

Sempol village, home to Arabika, has a couple of warungs. Pos Paltuding has a small shop for provisions and a cafe serving little more than noodles.

Catimor is set in the village of Blawan, a hamlet gushing with hot springs and a cascading stream. It's a special place and the preferable landing spot. Book ahead.

oCatimorLODGE$

(%0813 5799 9800, 0813 3619 9110; catimor_n12@yahoo.com; r 125,000-325,000Rp; Ws)

This budget lodge boasts an excellent location in the Kebun Balawan coffee plantation, close to hot springs. Unfortunately, there has been little or no maintenance for some time and the whole place is pretty creaky (especially inside the original wooden Dutch lodge, which dates back to 1894). There's also a separate block of cheap, reasonably clean, if featureless rooms.

Be sure to indulge yourself in the spring-fed hot tub, or brave the chilly swimming pool. Staff do their best here considering the remote location, and the meals are quite good. An ojek from Sempol is around 30,000Rp. Although management can arrange homestays if they are full, those do not include access to the hot spring.

ArabikaLODGE$

(%081 1350 5881, 082 8330 1347; arabica.homestay@gmail.com; r incl breakfast 175,000-325,000Rp; W)

This dated, usually chilly mountain lodge is managed by the Kebun Kalisat coffee plantation, which is a short walk away. Sadly, it's not in great shape these days, and cleanliness could be better – the more you pay the cleaner the rooms seem to get – but all rooms have hot water and a bathtub in which to enjoy it.

Staff are friendly, but can find it difficult to cope during busy periods. Meals are served, and there’s ping-pong. It’s at Sempol, 13km before Pos Paltuding on the Bondowoso side.

Pos PaltudingHUT$

(r 125,000Rp)

The PHKA post at the start of the Kawah Ijen hike has a bare, chilly cottage with basic rooms fit for a monk. There’s no hot water and blankets are not provided.

Ijen ResortHOTEL$$$

(%0815 5810 4576, 0815 5810 4577; www.ijendiscovery.com; Dusun Randuagung; r/ste from US$148/238; aWs)

This top-end resort is the only luxury lodge in the Ijen region and has magnificent views over rice terraces and the foothills of the volcano. Rooms have some style, with stone or timber floors, open-air bathrooms and attractive furnishings. There's an expensive restaurant that serves local and Western food, and tours and transport can be fixed.

The resort is about 25 minutes above Banyuwangi on the road up to Ijen.

Jiwa JawaFUSION$$

(Java Banana; %021-751 0338; java-banana.com; mains 65,000-195,000Rp)

Set off the road up to Ijen from Banyuwangi, this restaurant is a stunner, with a massive ground-floor gallery and an outdoor amphitheatre with spectacular volcano views. The menu is ambitious. Expect mains such as parrotfish in Mediterranean ragu, grilled unagi (eel) with a miso beurre blanc, and a nori-crusted rack of lamb.

Lodge rooms were under constuction at research time and were expected to be open by 2016.

8Getting There & Away

It is possible to travel nearly all the way to Kawah Ijen by public transport, but most visitors charter transport. Both access roads are badly potholed and slow going.

From Bondowoso

From Wonosari, 8km from Bondowoso towards Situbondo, a rough, potholed road runs via Sukosari and Sempol to Pos Paltuding. It's normally passable in any high-clearance vehicle, but sometimes a 4WD is necessary. Sign in at the coffee-plantation checkpoints (around 5000Rp) on the way. Hotels in Bondowoso can arrange day tours to Ijen for around 750,000Rp.

By public transport, several angkot run from Bondowoso to Sempol (25,000Rp, 2½ hours), most in the late morning, but there's a final one at 3pm. If passengers want to continue on to Pos Paltuding drivers will sometimes do so, though foreigners are regularly overcharged on this route. Otherwise, ojek in Sempol charge around 30,000Rp one way. At Pos Paltuding, there are usually a few drivers to take you back.

From Banyuwangi

The Banyuwangi–Ijen road was in good condition at research time, though it has been known to be impossibly rutted in the past. Check locally for current conditions before setting off. There’s no public transport all the way from Banyuwangi to Pos Paltuding, which is a sparsely populated region.

Jeep-style cars (650,000Rp per vehicle) can be arranged through the Banyuwangi tourist office. Chartering an ojek from Banyuwangi to Ijen is possible for around 200,000Rp (including a wait of four hours). Ojek drivers hang around the ferry terminal in Ketapang and Banyuwangi bus station, or ask at your guesthouse.

Heading back down the mountain, ojek charge around 75,000Rp to 100,000Rp for a one-way ride to Banyuwangi from Pos Paltuding.

Jember

%0331 / Pop 332,000

Jember is a large city and service centre for the surrounding coffee, cacao, rubber, cotton and tobacco plantations. It’s relatively clean, with a futuristic mosque (it looks like a flying saucer) by its alun-alun, but there’s no reason to linger. If you plan to go to Meru Betiri, you could drop by the Meru Betiri National Park Office (%0331-335535; www.merubetiri.com; Jl Sriwidjaya 53; h8am-3pm Sun-Fri), which has accommodation details and background information on the park.

Jember has an excess of transport terminals. The main one, Tawung Alun (or Terminal Jember), 6km west of town, has buses to Banyuwangi (27,000Rp, three hours) and Kalibaru (12,000Rp, one hour), and economy buses to Denpasar, Solo and Yogyakarta. Angkot run from here to Terminal Arjesa, which serves Bondowoso (10,000Rp, 45 minutes). There are also subterminals to the east (for Banyuwangi) and south (for Watu Ulo).

Jember is also located on the Surabaya–Banyuwangi train line; the station is in the town centre.

Kalibaru

%0333 / Pop 5000

The picturesque road from Jember to Banyuwangi winds around the foothills of Gunung Raung, through rainforest, and up to the small hill town of Kalibaru (428m).

The village itself is not much to look at, but it has a benign climate and a remarkable array of excellent midrange accommodation. It’s a good base for visiting the nearby plantations around Glenmore, to the east, or the smaller, more easily visited plots of coffee and cloves to the north of Kalibaru train station.

The area has many plantations, but Kebun Kandeng Lembu (admission 30,000Rp; h9am-noon Mon-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri), 5km south of Glenmore, is one of the most scenic. Guides can be hired (100,000Rp) for group tours to see rubber tapping and processing, as well as cacao and coffee plantations.

TTours

Margo Utomo Resort offers several tours. English-speaking guides will show you around the estate, which is totally organic and has a butterfly park; peppercorn, cinnamon and nutmeg trees; and vanilla and cacao plants. Jeep trips to surrounding villages are on offer, and take in a waterfall and cacao factory. Excursions to Pantai Sukamade (Turtle Beach) and Alas Purwo are also possible.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are warungs in town for cheap eats. Restaurants can be found at some of the area hotels.

Kalibaru CottagesBUNGALOW$$

(%0333-897333; www.kalibarucottages.com; r incl breakfast 390,000-620,000Rp; as)

A large, well-run resort boasting expansive, manicured grounds with a T-shaped pool that’s fringed by palm trees. Faux-traditional cottages are spacious, though the restaurant is a bit pricey. It’s 4km west of town on the Jember road.

Margo Utomo ResortHOTEL$$

(%0333-897700; www.margoutomo.com; Jl Lapangan 10; r incl breakfast 575,000Rp; is)

This classy former plantation enjoys a resplendent garden, bursting with shrubs and flowers (all neatly labelled). Its cottages are a bit pricey considering their simplicity, but they are tasteful and have charm. All have ceiling fans. Follow the path and you'll find a 20m pool at the rear of the grounds. There is also a restaurant.

It's popular with Dutch tour groups from June to August, when prices rise; you should book well ahead.

8Getting There & Away

Buses running between Jember (12,000Rp, one hour) and Banyuwangi (22,000Rp, two hours) can drop you near the hotels. The train station is in the village centre; Kalibaru is on the main Banyuwangi–Jember–Probolinggo–Surabaya train line.

Meru Betiri National Park

The Meru Betiri National Park, covering 580 sq km between Jember and Banyuwangi districts, is an area of magnificent coastal rainforest and abundant wildlife, making it one of Java’s finest parks. It’s famous as one of the last refuges of the Java tiger, now almost certainly extinct. Meru Betiri is very difficult to access (often impossible in the rainy season), which keeps the number of visitors to a trickle.

The future of the park is under threat on several fronts. Illegal loggers, farmers and hunters encroach on its territory. Mining companies, and illegal miners, are also eyeing up the park after significant gold deposits were found here.

1Sights & Activities

The park’s major attraction is the protected turtle beach at Sukamade, one of Indonesia’s most important turtle-spawning grounds, where several species come ashore to lay their eggs. You've a good chance of seeing a turtle here; green turtles and olive ridleys are the most common. Giant leatherbacks used to be seen between December and February, but sightings are rare these days. Mess Pantai arranges night turtle-watching trips (150,000Rp per person) and gathers eggs that are hatched inland so that wild pigs do not dig them up.

Wildlife, found mostly in the mountain forests, includes leopards, wild boars, monkeys, banteng, black giant squirrels, civets, reticulated pythons (the world’s longest snake) and Javanese eagles. You're sure to see a lot of monkeys, monitor lizards and hornbills – maybe even the rhinoceros hornbill, which emits a bark-like honk.

Trails are limited in the park and a guide (100,000Rp) is usually necessary. There are good coastal walks but sadly there's quite a bit of trash around, on the beach and inland.

Rajegwesi, at the entrance to the park, is on a large bay with a sweeping beach and a fishing village. Past the park entrance the road climbs, giving expansive views over spectacular Teluk Hijau (Green Bay), with its cliffs and white-sand beach. A trail leads 1km from the road down to Teluk Hijau, or it is about a one-hour walk east from Mess Pantai.

4Sleeping

There are guesthouses on the Sukamade plantation and in Rajegwesi, but these are some distance from the beach.

Mess PantaiBUNGALOW$

(%033-133 5535; r without/with bathroom 150,000/250,000Rp)

Set in the forest about 700m behind Pantai Sukamade, Mess Pantai is a basic but wonderfully located place to stay in the park, with simple, comfortable cottages. Instant noodles are usually the only food available (around 8000Rp), so it’s best to stock up in Sarongan and bring your own supplies – staff will prepare it for you.

There’s limited electricity and no mobile phone coverage here, but there is bottled water for sale.

8Information

The park is wet for much of the year as the coastal mountains trap the rain. Visit in the dry season from April to October, because the road into the park fords a river, which easily floods. Even in the dry season you may have to wade across the river and walk into the park.

The park’s office in Jember has plenty of information; entrance to the park costs 150,000Rp.

8Getting There & Away

Meru Betiri can be a tough place to reach, even by 4WD. Roads are rough and you have to ford rivers in some places. The most direct way to Sukamade from Banyuwangi or Jember is to first take a bus to Jajag, then a minibus to Pesanggaran (12,000Rp, one hour), where you'll probably have to change and get in another to Sarongan (10,000Rp, around one hour), a small town with warungs and stores where you can stock up on supplies. Watch out for the Sarongan transport mafia who will try to get you to charter a 4WD. Ojek to Sukamade (around 120,000Rp) can be arranged here, but generally only in the dry season; during the wet season the rivers are impassable. Otherwise, you'll have to get a truck ('taxi' in these parts), as they don't run to a fixed schedule. This should cost 30,000Rp, though foreigners are routinely overcharged. The truck has no problem with swollen rivers unless there is severe flooding.

Readers have told us they've made it all the way to Sukamade on motorcycle in the dry season; however, a dirt bike is preferable.

Alas Purwo National Park

Occupying the whole of the remote Blambangan Peninsula on the southeastern tip of Java, Alas Purwo has spectacular beaches, good opportunities for wildlife-spotting, and savannah, mangrove and lowland monsoon forests. Apart from day trippers and surfers, the park gets few visitors. Facilities are limited.

Alas Purwo means First Forest in Javanese: according to legend, this is where the earth first emerged from the ocean. Many soul-searchers and mystics flock here during the month of Suro, which marks the Javanese New Year. These pilgrims meditate in caves and pray to Nyai Loro Kidul. Pura Giri Selokah, a Hindu temple in the park, also attracts pilgrims, especially during Pagerwesi, the Hindu New Year.

The huge surf at Plengkung, on the isolated southeastern tip of the peninsula, forms one of the best left-handed waves in the world, breaking over a shallow reef in perfect barrels. Surfers have dubbed it G-Land. It’s best between April and September.

1Sights & Activities

A relatively flat limestone peninsula, with rolling hills that reach a peak of only 322m, Alas Purwo is dominated by lowland coastal forest. It's studded with stunning stands of mahoagony but few trails to explore it. As a result, vast expanses of the eastern park are untrammelled, even by park staff, which is why big cats have survived here for so long.

You can use Trianggulasi as a base for some interesting short walks. The white-sand beach here is beautiful, but swimming is usually dangerous thanks to swirling rip tides.

SadenganWILDLIFE RESERVE

Down a spur that branches from the main road just after the Hindu temple, Sadengan grazing ground has the largest herd of banteng (wild cattle) in Java. Some of the larger bulls have birds on their back, and lovely herons often glide into the frame. Kijang (deer) and peacocks can also be seen here from the viewing tower. This beautiful meadow, backed by rolling, forested hills, is a 2km walk from Trianggulasi.

Alas Purwo also has a small population of ajag (Asiatic wild dogs), jungle fowl, leaf monkeys, muntjac deer, sambar deer and a few leopards. Some rangers even swear they've seen tigers here, which is almost certainly untrue. Or is it? Either way, they can arrange interesting (but often fruitless) nocturnal leopard-spotting expeditions for around 100,000Rp.

NgagelanBEACH

The turtle hatchery at Ngagelan is set in a protected, fenced-off plot behind the beach, where rangers who have collected the eggs keep them piled and dated under the brown sand, shielding them from birds and other predators. The beach itself, where four species of turtles nest – including greens and leatherbacks – is wide, majestic and 18km long. You can see the light brown sand arc along the coast all the way to G-Land.

You can't swim here though, as the rip tide is all-powerful. Turtles emerge from the sea under the cover of night, and after they lay their eggs the rangers gather them and place them in the hatchery where they will gestate for 50 days before hatching and seeking the sea. To get here it's a 6km drive from Rowobendo through lowland forest along a rough road, or a 7km walk along the beach at low tide from Trianggulasi. A ranger will gladly show you around, but he won't speak much English.

Gua Istana & Gua PadepokanCAVE

From Pancur, a trail heads 2km inland through some good forest to Gua Istana, a small cave, and another 2km further on to Gua Padepokan.

G-LandSURFING

(Plengkung)

From Pancur, it's a 10km walk (two hours) around Teluk Grajagan to the fine beach at Plengkung, or G-Land, one of Asia’s premier surfing spots and home to three seasonal surf camps. There are several world-class breaks here, most barrelling over a razor-sharp, shallow reef – this is mostly experts-only surf territory, though there are also some beginner waves over a sandbar bottom.

When it's firing, there can be 100 people in the water, which can feel overwhelming, but the mob usually strings out to manageable numbers as heads seek waves that suit their skill set. The surf camps offer transport to the waves from a small marina that's easy to find in the shallows. Swimmers can swim east along the reef from here, though low tide is quite low, so you may need to pick your way among the reef when you come in.

The two main surf camps are set about 500m apart in different coves. Bobby's has the more dramatic setting and offers pagodas and hammocks on the beach. Joyo's has a long bench on a rocky outcrop, along with lounges oriented toward the waves and the sunset beyond. Oh yes, those sunsets are absolutely magical!

You are in a raw and wild part of the world now. There are leopards often caught on game cameras, and one ranger swears he saw a tiger with her cub recently. The jungled coastline certainly looks like something out of Jurassic Park. No wonder G-Land is the stuff of surf legend.

TTours

There are three surf camps at Plengkung: Bobby's, Joyo's and Raymond's (%036-175 0320; www.g-landsurfcamp.com). The surfing packages usually include boat transfers from Bali, accommodation and meals. Though it is possible to make your way here under your own steam, it's important to book ahead to make sure the camps have room for you. There is no other place to stay. Joyo's also offers fishing trips (half-day US$60) thanks to resident surfer and fisherman Mick Burke, who has lived here for 11 seasons and takes folks 2km offshore to his favourite fishing spots, searching for amberjack, Spanish mackerel and dogtooth tuna. He and his guests rarely return empty-handed. When you show up with your fish, the camp chefs will cook it up for no extra charge and your fellow guests will shower you with praise. Maybe.

Surfers take note: Mick has been riding these waves (quite well) for over a decade, and if the line-up is completely packed and you care to motor away from the crowds to unheard-of waves, he knows exactly where to go and can get you there for US$100 a head. Though the fee seems quite high, you will see a whole new stretch of coastline and be riding with just a handful of fellow surfers, which is a welcome relief on crowded days.

4Sleeping & Eating

From Trianggulasi, the nearest warung (meals 10,000Rp) is at Pancur, where there are also simple rooms (100,000Rp per person). National park campsites are dusty and lack shelter from the wind and the road. We don't recommend them.

The G-Land surf camps usually have three-night minimums, but if you arrive with your own transport you may be able to negotiate a single night or two. Call ahead.

oG-Land Joyo’s Surf CampSURF CAMP$$$

(%bookings in Bali 036-176 3166; www.g-land.com; 3-night packages from US$625; aW)

Joyo's has steadily upped its game over the years. It has good-quality thatched wooden bungalows with a fan or air-conditioning, a large-screen TV for sports, pool tables, internet access and table tennis. There's free yoga, fishing trips, and the crew who run the place are a blast. The price drops dramatically if you make your way here under your own steam.

The meals served here are as tasty as the food is plentiful. Price includes all meals and a free ration of two beers per day.

Bobby’s CampSURF CAMP$$$

(%bookings in Bali 036-175 5588; www.grajagan.com; 3-night packages US$640; aiW)

Right opposite the waves, this attractive camp has three standards of bungalow in shady grounds with a restaurant and bar. It has beach volleyball, ping-pong, pool tables, and boat and fishing trips can be arranged. Set back from the beach, in the jungle, the best nests are the two-storey teak cottages stilted in the trees.

Management is based in Kuta, Bali. Packages include transfers from Bali, grog and grub.

8Information

The usual park entry is by road, via the village of Pasar Anyar, which has a large national park office (%033-341 0857) and interpretive centre. Stop by to check on park accommodation and campsites; alternatively, check with the head office in Banyuwangi. You can also just show up cold, though you should book in with one of the surf camps if you intend to spend the night. The actual gateway to the park is 10km south along a bad road at Rowobendo where you need to pay your admission fee (10,000Rp per car, 150,000Rp per person). From here it's 2.5km to Trianggulasi.

8Getting There & Away

Alas Purwo is a pain to get to by public transport. The best way here is to hire a motorbike or car in Banyuwangi; the access roads are poor but usually doable.

By bus, you need to get to Brawijaya bus terminal in Banyuwangi from where there are buses to Kalipahit (15,000Rp, 1½ hours). Then take an ojek for around 80,000Rp to the park office in Pasar Anyar to check on accommodation, before pushing on to the park. The 12km road from Pasar Anyar to Trianggulasi is badly potholed but is flat and negotiable by car.

Banyuwangi

%0333 / Pop 115,000

Java’s land’s end is a pleasant, growing city, home to a large amount of Osig people, whose roots reach back centuries in southeast Java. Most travellers simply pass through on their way to or from Bali by ferry, but the city does make a reasonable and comfortable base to explore the Ijen region and other national parks along the east coast. It's worthy of a night or two.

Point of clarification: the ferry port for Bali, the bus terminal and the train station are all some 8km north of town in Ketapang, though all transport states ‘Banyuwangi’ as their destination.

1Sights

Pulau TabuhanBEACH

A droplet of creamy white sand, topped with a tuft of scrub, this island jewel set offshore from Java, nearly halfway to Bali, is surrounded by a ring of turquoise shallows with a deep blue drop-off about 50m from shore. You'll see bait balls, schools of tropical fish and decent coral structure. The water is aquarium clear, and from the beach the volcanoes and mountains from Java and Bali are spread out in all directions.

Though the winds can rip (there's a reason an annual kite-surf contest is held here), it's possible to camp. If you do, you're likely to have the place to yourself. To get here, take a taxi or ojek to the Rumah Apung port, north of the ferry terminal, and hire a boat from there. It's 400,000Rp to 500,000Rp round trip.

Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Chinese TempleCHINESE TEMPLE

(Jl Ikam Gurani 54)

One of the few sights in Banyuwangi is the Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Chinese temple, built in 1784. It’s well worth a peek.

Blambangan MuseumMUSEUM

(Jl A Yani; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)

This small museum is devoted to culture from the area with batik and traditional costumes, ceramics and curios.

zFestivals & Events

Banyuwangyi FestivalCULTURAL

The Banyuwangyi Festival is a two-month-long series of music, arts, culture and sporting events organised by the stellar tourist office, and held on weekends in August and September. The Jazz Festival is one such event; it's held at the Jiwa Jawa amphiteatre on the slopes of Ijen.

Another standout is the magnificent kite-surf contest, the Tabuhan Island Pro (www.tabuhanislandpro.com), held on Tabuhan Island in late August.

Head to the local tourist office for details and transport information to any of the events.

4Sleeping & Eating

For cheap eats, there are warungs on the corner of Jl MT Haryono and Jl Wahid Haysim.

Hotel Ketapang IndahHOTEL$$

(%0333-422280; www.ketapangindahhotel.com; Jl Gatot Subroto; d from 600,000Rp; aWs)

This lovely hotel makes a peaceful place to stay. Its huge, well-kept rooms and traditional-style cottages are dotted around a sprawling garden, shaded with coconut palms and extending to the sea. The 18m pool is big enough for laps, though the restaurant is fair at best. It’s 2km south of the ferry terminal.

oBangsring BreezeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(%0813 5869 0800; www.bangsringbreeze.com; Jl Raya Situbondo Km17 ; r from 1,055,000Rp; aWs)

Set north of the city and just north of the ferry port, this is a boutique hotel in every respect. Each of the five rooms has been individually and tastefully designed – think high ceilings, wood floors, throw rugs, wood furnishings, flat-screens and fine art.

There is a gorgeous pool overlooking the sea and Bali's Menjangan island beyond, and a spectacular volcano rising behind the property. It's set up a hill from the beach down a little gang, and absolutely worth a night or two. It's a great base to explore both Menjangan or Ijen, and staff can get you down to Sukamade and Alas Purwo National Park too.

Ikan Bakar PesonaSEAFOOD$

(Jl Sudarso 147; dishes 20,000-50,000Rp; h1-10pm)

A classic Indonesian fish house where the tableclothes are sealed in plastic to easily wipe down the Makassar-style shrapnel after a serious feast. Famous for 10 flavours of crab (get yours Padang style), it also does grilled fish six different ways. Prices are fair and the food is delicious.

8Information

Alas Purwo National Park Head OfficePARK OFFICE

(%0333-428675; Jl Brawijawa; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)

Two kilometres south of the town centre.

Banyuwangi Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%0333-424172; Jl Ahmad Yani 78; h7am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)

Staff are helpful at this office. They speak Dutch and some English, and can organise tours.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Banyuwangi's tiny Blimbingsari airport is 9km south of the centre. Garuda (www.garuda-indonesia.com) and Wings (www.lionair.co.id) both connect the city daily with Surabaya and Denpasar from 333,000Rp. There's no public transport to the airport; a taxi will cost around 50,000Rp.

Boat

Ferries depart around the clock for Gilimanuk in Bali (every 45 minutes, one hour). The ferry costs 7500Rp for passengers, 25,000Rp for a motorbike and 148,000 for a car (including four passengers). Through-buses between Bali and Java include the fare in the bus ticket. Pelni ships no longer call at Banyuwangi.

Bus

Banyuwangi has two bus terminals. The Sri Tanjung terminal is 3km north of Ketapang ferry terminal, 11km from the centre. Buses from here head along the north coast road to Baluran (10,000Rp, one hour), Probolinggo (normal/patas 40,000/50,000Rp, five hours) and Surabaya (46,000/66,000Rp, seven hours). Buses also go right through to Yogyakarta (patas 150,000Rp, 15 hours) and Denpasar (from 70,000Rp, five hours including the ferry trip). Brawijaya terminal (also known as Karang Ente), 4km south of town, covers buses along the southern highway to Kalibaru (22,000Rp, two hours) and Jember (27,000Rp, three hours).

Train

The main Banyuwangi train station is just a few hundred metres north of the ferry terminal. The express Mutiara Timur leaves at 8am and 9.45pm for Probolinggo (economy/business/executive from 60,000/105,000/140,000Rp, five hours) and Surabaya (130,000Rp, seven hours).

Baluran National Park

Baluran National Park once harboured a diverse range of ecosystems in a 250-sq-km chunk of northeastern Java, though lately development has severely impacted the park. Extensive grasslands still cover parts of the park, providing grazing for banteng (wild cattle), kijang (deer) and water buffalo, and the savannah-like terrain is reminiscent of East Africa.

1Sights & Activities

Baluran is home to hundreds of Timor deer and banteng, plus sambar deer, muntjac deer, two species of monkey and wild boars. Visit in July and August and you might see male Timor deer rutting for breeding rights.

Birdlife is also excellent, with green peafowl, red and green jungle fowl, hornbills, white-bellied woodpeckers and bee-eaters all easy to spot.

Pantai BamaBEACH

Fringed by mangroves, the sandy cove of Bama is 4km north of Bekol. It’s a popular weekend retreat for local families, but usually peaceful at other times. Canoes (40,000Rp) and snorkelling gear (60,000Rp) can be hired. Watch out for the cheeky long-tailed macaques here, which have been known to pinch food.

BekolHIKING

From the PHKA office on the highway, it's 14km down a flat gravel track to Bekol. The friendly rangers here look after a couple of lodges and can act as guides (150,000Rp per half-day). You don't need a guide to hike along a well-maintained trail to Pantai Bama (1½ hours), which follows a riverbank where deer are common.

On the hill above the guesthouses at Bekol there is a viewing tower that provides a panoramic view over a 300-hectare clearing. Banteng and deer can be seen here, and wild dogs can sometimes be seen hunting, usually in the early morning.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most visitors tend to day-trip, so accommodation is often available, but it pays to book ahead in the peak June-to-August holiday period.

BungalowsBUNGALOW$

(s 125,000Rp, d 175,000-225,000Rp)

Pantai Bama is the preferred location as you're right on the beach and it's better set up for visitors. There is accommodation available in concrete bungalows and a warung for cheap meals (mains 900Rp to 22,000Rp) and drinks. The rooms are functional.

PesanggrahanGUESTHOUSE$

(%0333-461936; per person 75,000-150,000Rp)

At Bekol, this guesthouse has basic rooms in either concrete or wooden houses and simple bungalows to one side. The accommodation is basic, and you should bring your own mosquito net if you have one. You'll find a kitchen for guests or you can buy packet noodles and drinks.

Rosa’s EcolodgeGUESTHOUSE$$

(%0333-845 3005; www.rosasecolodge.com; Ds Sidomulyo RT 03/03; r incl breakfast 450,000Rp; ai)

Rosa's spacious rooms were renovated in 2015 with private bathrooms and front porches. Rosa's is geared towards guests who join its pricey Baluran tours, and priority is given to its groups during busy times. It’s on the northern edge of the park in the village of Sumberwaru. Buffet-style meals of tasty Javanese food are served here.

8Information

You’ll find the PHKA office (%0333-461650, 0333-461936; h8am-4pm) on the coastal highway in the village of Wonorejo, between Surabaya and Banyuwangi. Guides can be booked for around 250,000Rp per day. Entrance costs 105,000Rp and an extra 10,000Rp is charged for a car.

Baluran can be visited at any time of the year, but the dry season (June to November) is usually the best time because the animals congregate near the waterholes at Bekol and Bama.

8Getting There & Away

A regular stream of Surabaya–Banyuwangi buses all pass right by the almost-hidden park entrance. From Banyuwangi it’s a one-hour journey (10,000Rp). Coming from the west, Baluran is four hours from Probolinggo. PHKA rangers at the entrance can arrange an ojek (around 40,000Rp) to take you the next 12km to Bekol; the road is in pretty good shape and should be passable by most cars. A 4WD is not necessary.