Nusa Lembongan & Islands

Look towards the open ocean southeast of Bali and the hazy bulk of Nusa Penida dominates the view. But for many visitors the real focus is Nusa Lembongan, which lurks in the shadow of its vastly larger neighbour. It offers amazing diving, languorous beaches, great surfing and the kind of laid-back vibe travellers cherish.

Once ignored, Nusa Penida is now attracting visitors, but its dramatic vistas and unchanged village life are still yours to explore. Tiny Nusa Ceningan huddles between the larger islands. It's a quick and popular jaunt from Lembongan.

The main cash crop here has been seaweed, although the big harvest now comes on two legs.

Nusa Lembongan

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Once the domain of shack-staying surfers, Nusa Lembongan has hit the big time. Yes, you can still get a simple room with a view of the surf breaks and the gorgeous sunsets, but now you can also stay in a boutique hotel and have a fabulous meal. But even as Nusa Lembongan grows in popularity each year, it remains a mellow place.

1Sights

Pantai Tanjung SanghyangBEACH

(Mushroom Bay; MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This beautiful bay, unofficially named Mushroom Bay after the mushroom corals offshore, has a crescent of bright white beach. By day, the tranquillity can be disturbed by banana-boat riders or parasailers. At other hours, this is a beach of dreams.

The most interesting way to get here from Jungutbatu is to walk along the trail that starts from the southern end of the main beach and follows the coastline for a kilometre or so. Alternatively, get a boat from Jungutbatu.

Dream BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Down a little track on the south side of the island, this 150m crescent of white sand has pounding surf and a cute little cafe.

2Activities

Most accommodation will rent bicycles for 30,000Rp per day, surfboards for 50,000Rp and motorbikes for 50,000Rp per day.

Surfing

Surfing here is best in the dry season (from April to September), when the winds come from the southeast. It's definitely not a place for beginners, though, and can be dangerous even for experts. There are three main breaks on the reef, all aptly named. From north to south are Shipwrecks ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Lacerations ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Playgrounds ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). If you're staying nearby, you can paddle directly out to whichever of the three is closest; otherwise it's better to hire a boat. Prices for boats are negotiable, from about 30,000Rp to 50,000Rp for a one-way trip. You tell the boat owner when to return for you.

Note you can only surf these breaks at mid- or high tide; it's too shallow at low tide.

A fourth break – Racecourses – sometimes emerges south of Shipwrecks.

Diving

You'll have plenty of choice for diving around Nusa Lembongan and the islands.

World DivingDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 390 0686; www.world-diving.com; Jungutbatu Beach; 2 dives excl equipment from 1,200,000Rp, open-water course 5,500,000Rp)

World Diving, based at Pondok Baruna, is very well regarded. It offers a complete range of courses, plus diving trips to dive sites all around the three islands. Equipment is first-rate.

Bali Diving AcademyDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-270252; www.scubali.com; Bungalow Number 7; 2 dives excl equipment US$79, PADI US$415)

The long-running and very professional Bali Diving Academy is a recommended dive operation, which has long experience in the waters around Lembongan and Penida. It has a full range of courses.

DIVING NUSA LEMBONGAN & ISLANDS

There are great diving possibilities around Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Penida and Nusa Ceningan, from shallow and sheltered reefs, mainly on the northern side of Lembongan and Penida, to very demanding drift dives in the channel between Penida and the other two islands. Vigilant locals have protected their waters from dynamite bombing by renegade fishing boats, so the reefs are relatively intact. And a side benefit of local seaweed farming is that locals no longer rely so much on fishing. The islands were designated a marine conservation district in 2012.

If you arrange a dive trip from Padangbai or south Bali, stick with the most reputable operators, as conditions here can be tricky and local knowledge is essential.

Diving accidents regularly happen and people die diving in the waters around the islands every year.

Using one of the recommended operators on Nusa Lembongan puts you close to the action from the start. A particular attraction are the large marine animals, including turtles, sharks and manta rays. The large (3m, fin to fin) and unusual mola mola (sunfish) are regularly seen around the islands between mid-July and October, while manta rays are often seen south of Nusa Penida.

The best dive sites include Blue Corner and Jackfish Point off Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan Point at the tip of Nusa Ceningan. The channel between Ceningan and Penida is renowned for drift diving, but it is essential you are with a good operator who can judge fast-changing currents and other conditions. Upswells can bring cold water from the open ocean to sites such as Ceningan Wall. This is one of the world's deepest natural channels and attracts all manner and sizes of fish.

Sites close to Nusa Penida include Crystal Bay, SD, Pura Ped, Manta Point and Batu Aba. Of these, Crystal Bay, SD and Pura Ped are suitable for novice divers and are good for snorkelling.

For a fascinating look into the marine species that inhabit these waters, check out the website of ecological group Aquatic Alliance (www.aquaticalliance.org). The group gives free talks on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 6.30pm at Secret Garden Bungalows (up the road from World Diving), which are worth attending.

Snorkelling

Good snorkelling can be had just off Tanjung Sanghyang (Mushroom Bay) and Bounty pontoons ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) off Jungutbatu Beach, as well as in areas off the north coast of the island. You can charter a boat from 150,000Rp per hour, depending on demand, distance and the number of passengers.

A trip to the challenging waters of Nusa Penida costs 400,000Rp for three hours, and to the nearby mangroves costs about 300,000Rp. Snorkelling gear can be rented for about 30,000Rp per day. World Diving allows snorkellers to join dive trips and charges 250,000Rp for a four-hour trip.

4Sleeping & Eating

Rooms and amenities generally become increasingly posh as you head south and west along the water to Tanjung Sanghyang (Mushroom Bay).

Jungutbatu

oPondok BarunaGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 394 0992; www.pondokbaruna.com; Jungutbatu Beach; r 250,000-650,000Rp; aWs)

Associated with World Diving, a local dive operator, this place offers fantastic rooms with terraces facing the ocean. Plusher rooms surround a dive pool behind the beach. There are another eight rooms at sister site Pondok Baruna Frangipani ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 394 0992; www.pondokbaruna.com; s/d incl breakfast 600,000/650,000Rp; aWs), set back in the palm trees around a large pool. Staff members, led by Putu, are charmers.

Pemedal BeachGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 4441 4888; www.pemedalbeach.com; Jungutbatu Beach; r from 500,000Rp; aWs)

A lovely affordable option if you want to be near a sandy beach; the 11 bungalows are set back a bit with a nice pool.

Indiana KenangaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0828 9708 4367; www.indiana-kenanga-villas.com; Jungutbatu Beach; r US$200-490; aWs)

Two posh villas and 16 stylish suites shelter near a pool behind the beach at Lembongan's most upscale digs. The French designer-owner has decorated the place with Buddhist statues, purple armchairs and other whimsical touches. The restaurant has an all-day menu of seafood and various surprises cooked up by the skilled chef, plus there's a poolside creperie!

Hillside

The steep hillside just south of Jungutbatu offers great views and an ever-increasing number of luxurious rooms.

Ware-WareGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 397 0572; r incl breakfast from 700,000Rp; aWs)

The nine units at this hillside place are a mix of square and circular numbers with thatched roofs. The large rooms (some with fan only) have rattan couches and big bathrooms. The cafe scores with its spectacular, breezy location on a cliff-side wooden deck.

Batu KarangHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0366-559 6376; www.batukaranglembongan.com; r incl breakfast from US$270; aiWs)

This upmarket resort perched on a terraced hillside has a large infinity pool. Some of its 25 luxury units are villa-style and have multiple rooms and private plunge pools. All have open-air bathrooms and wooden terraces with sweeping views. Right on the hillside path, Deck Cafe & Bar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://thedecklembongan.com; snacks from 20,000Rp; h7.30am-11pm; W) is a good pause for a gourmet snack or a drink.

Tanjung Sanghyang (Mushroom Bay)

It's your own treasure island. This shallow bay has a nice beach, plenty of overhanging trees and some of the nicest lodgings on Lembongan.

Alam Nusa HutsGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1662 6336; www.alamnusahuts.com; Tanjung Sanghyang; r from US$40; aW)

This small property is less than 100m from the beach. Four bungalows sit in a small, lush garden; each has an open-air bathroom and a secluded terrace. The interiors feature a lot of rich wood and bamboo. The staff are especially welcoming.

oHai Bar & GrillINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-720331; www.haitidebeachresort.com/hai-bar-and-grill; Tanjung Sanghyang, Hai Tide Beach Resort; mains from 60,000-125,000Rp; h7am-10.30pm; W)

This wide-open bar with wide-open views of the bay and sunsets is the most stylish restaurant bar along Tanjung Sanghyang. The menu mixes Asian and Western dishes, and there are comforts such as fresh-baked muffins. You can use the pool if you eat here, and open-air movies screen some nights. Call for pickup from Jungutbatu.

Elsewhere on Lembongan

Dream Beach HutsGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4508 3170; www.dreambeachlembongan.com; Dream Beach; r incl breakfast from 650,000Rp; Ws)

Overlooking Lembongan's best beach, this guesthouse truly does have a dream location. The traditionally styled thatched-roof huts are no-frills, with outdoor bathrooms and cold-water showers, so it won't suit those seeking luxury. On the flip-side, its grounds are a delight, with a double-tiered swimming pool, ping-pong tables, hammocks and beanbags.

The restaurant (mains from 55,000Rp) is popular with day trippers, so service can be on the slow side.

Sandy Bay Beach ClubINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0828 9700 5656; www.sandybaylembongan.com; Sunset Bay; mains from 55,000Rp; h8.30am-10.30pm; W)

Pushing the distressed bleached-wood look for all its worth, this appealing beach club occupies a fine position on a sweet pocket of sand most call Sunset Beach (unless you're this place and call it Sandy Bay…). The menu spans Asia and Europe, with a detour to Burgerville. The evening seafood barbecues are popular.

8Information

It's vital that you bring sufficient cash in rupiah for your stay, as there is only one ATM and it won't accept most foreign cards, even when it actually has cash to dispense.

8Getting There & Away

There are numerous options for getting to/from Nusa Lembongan, some quite fast. Note: anyone with money to buy a speedboat is getting into the fast-boat act here; be wary of fly-by-night operators with fly-by-night safety standards. Boats anchor offshore, so be prepared to get your feet wet. There are a number of fast boats heading to/from Sanur; recommended operators include Scoot ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-285522; www.scootcruise.com) and Rocky Fast Cruises ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-283624; www.rockyfastcruise.com; Jungubatu Beach).

Nusa Penida boats take locals between Jungutbatu and Toyapakeh (one hour) between 5.30am and 6am for 30,000Rp. Otherwise, charter a boat for 150,000Rp one way.

8Getting Around

The island is fairly small and you can walk to most places. There are no cars (although pickup trucks are proliferating); bicycles (30,000Rp per day) and small motorcycles (50,000Rp per day) are widely available for hire. One unwelcome development has been the arrival of SUV-sized golf carts.

One-way rides on motorcycles or trucks cost 20,000Rp and up.

Nusa Ceningan

There is an atmospheric, narrow suspension bridge crossing the lagoon between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan, which makes it quite easy to explore the island. In addition to the lagoon that's filled with frames for seaweed farming, you'll see several small agricultural plots and a fishing village. The island is quite hilly and, if you're up for it, you can get glimpses of great scenery while wandering or cycling around.

2Activities

The Mahana Point cliff jump (50,000Rp for three jumps) is a popular activity.

JEDCULTURAL TOUR

(Village Ecotourism Network; %0361-366 9951; www.jed.or.id; per person US$130)

To really savour Nusa Ceningan, take an overnight tour of the island with JED, a cultural organisation that gives people an in-depth look at village and cultural life. Trips include family accommodation in a village, local meals, a fascinating tour with seaweed workers and transport to/from mainland Bali.

4Sleeping & Eating

Le Pirate Beach ClubGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-487240; www.lepirate-beachclub.com; Nusa Ceningan; r incl breakfast from 900,000Rp; aWs)

With a colour scheme of sprightly white and blue, the theme here is retro-chic island kitsch. The accommodation consists of air-conditioned beach boxes, which range from bunk beds that sleep four to doubles. The popular restaurant looks over the small kidney-shaped pool and has broad views of the channel. Two-night minimum.

Sea Breeze WarungINDONESIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Nusa Ceningan; mains 30,000-70,000Rp; h8am-10pm)

The charming Sea Breeze has a great location overlooking the water and the seaweed harvest, and an attractive open-air setting decorated with plants. It offers an excellent seafood selection, and does a tasty nasi campur.

Nusa Penida

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Largely overlooked by tourists, Nusa Penida awaits discovery. It's an untrammelled place that answers the question: what would Bali be like if tourists never came?

Nusa Penida was once used as a place of banishment for criminals and other undesirables from the kingdom of Klungkung. It’s thought to be home to demons. Life is simple here and there are not a lot of formal activities or sights; rather, you go to Nusa Penida to explore and relax.

1Sights & Activities

Nusa Penida has world-class diving. Most people make arrangements through dive shops on Nusa Lembongan.

Between Toyapakeh and Sampalan there is excellent cycling on the beautiful, flat coastal road. The roads elsewhere are good for mountain bikes. Ask around to rent a bike, which should cost about 25,000Rp per day.

At Batukandik, a rough road and a 1.5km track lead to a spectacular waterfall (Air Terjun), which crashes onto a small beach.

oPura Dalem Penetaran PedHINDU TEMPLE

( GOOGLE MAP )F

The important temple of Pura Dalem Penetaran Ped is near the beach at Ped, 3.5km east of Toyapakeh. It houses a shrine for the demon Jero Gede Macaling that is a source of power for practitioners of black magic, and a place of pilgrimage for those seeking protection from sickness and evil.

Octopus DiveDIVING

(%0878 6268 0888; www.octopusdive-pelabuhanratu.com; Bodong; 2-tank dives from 1,000,000Rp)

A small and enthusiastic local dive operator.

Penida ToursCULTURAL TOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 0587 1291; www.penidatours.com; Bodong, Ped; tours from 500,000Rp; h9am-6pm)

A great local operation that arranges culutral tours around Penida, covering anything from black magic to seaweed farming. It's a bit on the pricey side, but few leave disappointed. The office is located next door to Gallery cafe.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ped

Just 600m west of the Balinese temple, the tiny village of Bodong has a burgeoning traveller scene.

Jero RawaHOMESTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 0586 6886; www.jerorawa.com; Jl Raya Ped; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con 175,000/275,000Rp)

Run by a delightful family, this laid-back guesthouse has clean bungalow-style rooms just across the street from the beach.

Ring Sameton InnGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813- 798 5141; www.ringsameton-nusapenida.com; Bodong; r incl breakfast 500,000Rp; aWs)

If you're seeking comfort, this is easily the best place to stay on Penida. As well as spiffy business-style rooms with air-con and wi-fi, there's a pool, an atmospheric restaurant and quick beach access.

oGalleryCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 9988 7205; Bodong; mains 25,000Rp; h7.30am-9pm)

A popular spot for volunteers at the NGOs, this small cafe and shop is run by the ever-charming Mike, a Brit who is a font of Penida knowledge. There's art on the walls, hand-roasted filter coffee and a Western menu of breakfasts items and sandwiches.

Penida ColadaCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/penidacolada; Bodong; mains 35,000-60,000Rp; h9am-late; W)

The cocktails at this charming seaside-shack cafe, run by an Indo–Aussie husband-wife team, are a must. Fresh, creative concoctions include aloe-lime mojitos and dragon-fruit daiquiris to go with a menu of grilled fish, BLT toasties and handcut chips with aioli. There's often a seafood barbecue in the evenings.

Warung Pondok Nusa PenidaINDONESIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Bodong; mains from 27,000Rp; h9am-9pm)

A cute little breezy place right on the beach. Enjoy well-prepared Indo classics and seafood (plus the odd international item) while taking in the views to Bali. Try the 'seaweed mocktail' dessert.

Sampalan

Sampalan, the main town on Penida, is a surprisingly hectic strip full of commerce.

MaeMae Beach HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 479 4176; maemaebeachhouse2015@gmail.com; Kutampi; r with fan/air-con 250,000/300,000Rp; aW)

In the town of Kutampi just outside Sampalan, this guesthouse is convenient for the main harbour. The manager Agus speaks excellent English and is a wealth of knowledge about everything Penida. Rooms are modern, but with a few rough edges. The chilled-out warung does decent food and is close to the water.

8Information

Services are limited to small shops in the main towns. There are a few ATMs, but it's wise to bring enough cash and anything else you’ll need.

8Getting There & Away

Speedboats on Penida depart from Buyuk harbour in Kutampi village, heading to Sanur (175,000Rp, 45 minutes) and Padangbai (110,000Rp, 25 minutes). A large car ferry also operates daily (passenger/motorcycle 27,300/39,000Rp, two hours) to/from Padangbai.

If you come by boat from Nusa Lembongan, you'll probably be dropped at the beach at Toyapakeh, a pretty village with lots of shady trees. Public boats run between Jungutbatu and Toyapakeh (30,000Rp, one hour) between 5.30am and 6am and there are also several trips a day between Lembongan village and Toyapakeh on fast boats (50,000Rp). Otherwise, charter a boat for 400,000Rp return.

8Getting Around

To see the island you can rent a motorbike, or charter a private vehicle with driver from 350,000Rp for a half-day.

Ubud

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Serving as the perfect antidote to the fun lovin' beaches of the south, Ubud is the place to go once you're done partying hard and need some spiritual cleansing and detox. Framed by stunning green rice fields, lush jungles, ravines and rivers, the town of Ubud is justifiably one of Asia's most famous tourist towns. Though its main streets are often clogged with traffic, all it takes is a short stroll (or better yet, a long hike) and you'll find yourself immersed in its idyllic green surrounds.

A patron of the arts as well as a cradle for Balinese culture, Ubud showcases traditional Balinese dance and artworks, and its ornate architecture is on show in its many palaces, Hindu temples and shrines. And despite its touristy make-up, Ubud remains a wonderful place to observe traditional Balinese life through its daily offerings and Hindu rituals.

It also beckons as a spiritual retreat. Yoga is the big draw, and many relaxation and wellness centres offer every kind of treatment. Food is another highlight: Ubud has some of the most creative restaurants in Indonesia. While you'll find a big emphasis on organic and vegetarian fare, don't miss the traditional Balinese food here.

Spend a few days in Ubud to appreciate it properly. Ubud is one of those places where days can become weeks and weeks become months, as the noticeable expat community demonstrates.

1Sights

oMuseum Puri LukisanMUSEUM

(Museum of Fine Arts; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975136; www.museumpurilukisan.com; off Jl Raya Ubud; adult/child incl drink 85,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm)

It was in Ubud that the modern Balinese art movement started, when artists first began to abandon purely religious themes and court subjects for scenes of everyday life. This museum displays fine examples of all schools of Balinese art, and all are well labelled in English. It was set up by Rudolf Bonnet, with Cokorda Gede Agung Sukawati (a prince of Ubud’s royal family) and Walter Spies.

The East Building to the right upon entry has a collection of early works from Ubud and surrounding villages. These include examples of classical 16th-century cloth wayang-style paintings (art influenced by shadow puppetry). The North Building features fine ink drawings by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad and paintings by Pita Maha artists. Notice the level of detail in Lempad’s The Dream of Dharmawangsa. Classic works from the 1930s heyday of expats are also here. The West Building has vibrant postwar modern art by Balinese painters, while the South Building is used for special exhibitions.

The museum has a good bookshop and a cafe. The lush, garden-like grounds alone are worth a visit.

Ubud PalacePALACE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Raya Ubud & Jl Suweta; h8am-7pm)F

The palace and its temple, Puri Saren Agung ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Raya Ubud & Jl Suweta), share a space in the heart of Ubud. The compound was mostly built after the 1917 earthquake and the local royal family still lives here. You can wander around most of the large compound and explore the many traditional, though not excessively ornate, buildings.

Take time to appreciate the stone carvings, many by noted local artists such as I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. On many nights you can watch a dance performance here.

Just north, Pura Marajan Agung ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Suweta) has one of the finest gates you'll find and is the private temple for the royal family. The compound across from the palace has a magnificent banyan tree, and is also used as a residence for the family.

Pura Desa UbudHINDU TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)F

The main temple for the Ubud community. It is often closed but comes alive for ceremonies.

oPura Taman SaraswatiHINDU TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)F

Waters from the temple at the rear of this site feed the pond in the front, which overflows with pretty lotus blossoms. There are carvings that honour Dewi Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and the arts, who has clearly given her blessing to Ubud. There are regular dance performances by night.

oNeka Art MuseumGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975074; www.museumneka.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; adult/child 50,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

The creation of Suteja Neka, a private collector and dealer in Balinese art, Neka Art Museum has an excellent and diverse collection. It's a good place to learn about the development of painting in Bali. You can get an overview of the myriad local painting styles in the Balinese Painting Hall. Look for the wayang works.

The Arie Smit Pavilion features Smit’s works on the upper level, and examples of the Young Artist school, which he inspired, on the lower level. Look for the Bruegel-like The Wedding Ceremony by I Nyoman Tjarka.

The Lempad Pavilion houses Bali’s largest collection of works by the master I Gusti Nyoman Lempad.

The Contemporary Indonesian Art Hall has paintings by artists from other parts of Indonesia, including stunning works by Affandi. The upper floor of the East-West Art Annexe is devoted to the work of foreign artists, such as Louise Koke, Miguel Covarrubias, Rudolf Bonnet, Han Snel, Donald Friend and Antonio Blanco.

The temporary exhibition hall has changing displays, while the Photography Archive Centre features black-and-white photography of Bali in the early 1930s and '40s. Head upstairs in the lobby to see the large collection of ceremonial kris (daggers).

oAgung Rai Museum of ArtGALLERY

(ARMA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976659; www.armabali.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; adult/child incl drink 60,000Rp/free; h9am-6pm, Balinese dancing 3-5pm Mon-Fri, classes 10am Sun)

Founded by art patron Agung Rai as an art museum, cultural centre, botanical gardens and hotel, the impressive ARMA features a world-class collection of Balinese, Indonesian and European artists. The collection is well labelled in English. Exhibits include classical Kamasan paintings, Batuan-style work from the 1930s and '40s, and works by Lempad, Affandi, Sadali, Hofker, Bonnet and Le Mayeur. The museum is housed in several traditional buildings set in gardens with water coursing through channels.

It's fun to visit ARMA when local children practise Balinese dancing and during gamelan practice.

Museum RudanaGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975779; www.museumrudana.com; Jl Raya Mas; admission incl drink & souvenir 100,000Rp; h9.30am-5pm)

This imposing museum overlooking rice fields is the creation of local politician and art-lover Nyoman Rudana and his wife, Ni Wayan Olasthini. The three floors contain more than 400 traditional paintings, including a calendar dated to the 1840s, some Lempad drawings and more-modern pieces. The museum is beside the Rudana Gallery, which has a large selection of paintings for sale. Photography is prohibited.

Blanco Renaissance MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975502; www.blancomuseum.com; Jl Raya Campuan; adult/child 80,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm)

The picture of Antonio Blanco (1912–99) mugging with Michael Jackson says it all. His surreal palatial neo-renaissance home and namesake museum captures the artist’s theatrical spirit. Blanco came to Bali from Spain via the Philippines. Playing the role of an eccentric artist à la Dalí, he is known for his expressionist art and illustrated poetry that incorporates a mix of styles and mediums. Enjoy the waterfall and exotic birds on the way in, and good views over the river.

Neka GalleryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975034; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-5pm)F

Operated by Suteja Neka since 1966, the low-key Neka Gallery is a separate entity from the other gallery bearing Neka's name, Neka Art Museum. It has an extensive selection from all the schools of Balinese art, as well as works by European residents, such as the renowned Arie Smit.

2Activities

Ubud has established itself in recent years as one of the best places in Southeast Asia to practise yoga. All forms of yoga are on offer and for all levels.

It also brims with salons and spas, where you can heal, pamper, rejuvenate or otherwise focus on your personal needs, both physical and mental.

White-Water Rafting

The nearby Sungai Ayung is the most popular river in Bali for white-water rafting. Bali Adventure Tours (%0361-721480; www.baliadventuretours.com; rafting trips adult/child from $79/52) and Bio (%0361-270949; www.bioadventurer.com; adult/child from US$79/65) are two reputable operators.

Yoga & Wellness

Yoga BarnYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971236; www.theyogabarn.com; off Jl Raya Pengosekan; classes from 120,000Rp; h7am-8pm)

The chakra for the yoga revolution in Ubud, the Yoga Barn sits in its own lotus position amid trees back near a river valley. The name exactly describes what you’ll find: a huge range of classes in yoga, Pilates, dance and life-affirming offshoots, held throughout the week.

Radiantly AliveYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-978055; www.radiantlyalive.com; Jl Jembawan 3; per class/day/week 140,000/170,000/550,000Rp)

This school will appeal to those looking for an intimate space, and offers a mix of drop-in and long-term yoga classes in a number of disciplines.

oBali Botanica Day SpaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976739; www.balibotanica.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; massage from 155,000Rp; h9am-9pm)

Set beautifully on a lush hillside past little fields of rice and ducks, this spa offers a range of treatments, including Ayurvedic. The herbal massage is popular. Transport is provided if needed.

Taksu SpaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-479 2525; www.taksuspa.com; Jl Goutama; massage from 375,000Rp; h9am-9pm; W)

Somewhat hidden yet still in the heart of Ubud, Taksu has a long and rather lavish menu of treatments, as well as a strong focus on yoga. There are private rooms for couples massages, a healthy cafe and a range of classes.

DON'T MISS

UBUD MONKEY FOREST

One of Ubud's most famous sights (or should that be infamous) is the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971304; www.monkeyforestubud.com; Monkey Forest Rd; adult/child 30,000/20,000Rp; h8.30am-6pm). It's a cool and dense swathe of jungle inhabited by a band of grey-haired and greedy long-tailed Balinese macaques. They are nothing like the innocent-looking doe-eyed monkeys on the brochures. Monkeys keep a keen eye on passing tourists in hope of handouts (or an opportunity to help themselves). Don’t feed these creatures; avoid eye contact and showing your teeth, including smiling, which is interpreted as a sign of aggression.

The forest sanctuary houses three holy temples. The interesting Pura Dalem Agung ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) has a real Indiana Jones feel to it; the entrance to the inner temple features Rangda figures devouring children.

You can enter the monkey forest through one of three gates: the main one at the southern end of Monkey Forest Rd; from 100m further east, near the car park; or from the southern side, on the lane from Nyuhkuning.

CCourses

Ubud is the perfect place to develop your artistic or language skills, or learn about Balinese culture and cuisine.

oCasa Luna Cooking SchoolCOOKING COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973282; www.casalunabali.com; Honeymoon Guesthouse, Jl Bisma; classes from 400,000Rp)

Regular cooking courses are offered at Honeymoon Guesthouse and/or Casa Luna restaurant ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977409; www.casalunabali.com; Jl Raya Ubud; meals from 50,000Rp; h8am-10pm). Half-day courses cover ingredients, cooking techniques and the cultural background of the Balinese kitchen (note, not all courses include a visit to the market). Tours are also offered, including a good one to the Gianyar night market or to a Kintamani coffee plantation.

Nirvana Batik CourseARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975415; www.nirvanaku.com; Nirvana Pension, Jl Goutama 10; classes from 480,000Rp; hclasses 10am-2pm Mon-Sat)

Nyoman Suradnya teaches these highly regarded batik courses.

TTours

Day tours around Ubud are popular, especially ones that involve activities or themed programs.

Bali Nature Herbal WalksWALKING TOUR

(%0812 381 6024; www.baliherbalwalk.com; walks 200,000Rp per person; h8.30am)

Three-hour walks through lush Bali landscapes. Medicinal and cooking herbs and plants are identified and explained in their natural environment. Includes herbal drinks.

Banyan Tree Cycling ToursBICYCLE TOUR

(%0813 3879 8516; www.banyantreebiketours.com; tours adult/child from 550,000/350,000Rp)

Enjoy day-long tours of remote villages in the hills above Ubud. The tours are very popular, and emphasise interaction with villagers. Hiking and rafting trips are also available.

Bali Bird WalksBIRDWATCHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975009; www.balibirdwalk.com; Jl Raya Campuan; tour incl lunch US$37; h9am-12.30pm Tue, Fri, Sat & Sun)

Started by Victor Mason more than three decades ago, this tour, ideal for keen birders, is still going strong. On a gentle morning's walk (from the long-closed Beggar's Bush Bar) you may see up to 30 of the 100-odd local species.

WALKS AROUND UBUD

Though Ubud has become traffic-clogged and tourist-choked, fortunately it's easy to escape. With only a short walk you'll find yourself immersed in verdant rice fields. There are lots of awe-inspiring walks to surrounding villages or through the rice paddies.

For a short jaunt head down a little track heading north off Jl Raya Ubud that goes past Abangan Bungalows, then follow the path through the lush rice fields; you'll pass numerous charming eateries, including Sari Organik. You can keep heading north as long as your interest or endurance lasts. Look for little offshoot trails to either side that lead to small rivers. Similarly, you can head down Jl Kajeng past Threads of Life and soon be transported to emerald surrounds.

For longer walks it’s good to start at daybreak, before it gets too hot.

The 8.5km Campuan Ridge walk leaves Jl Raya Campuan at the Warwick Ibah Luxury Villas. Enter the hotel driveway and take the path to the left, where a walkway crosses the river to Pura Gunung Lebah. From there follow the concrete path north, climbing up onto the ridge between the two rivers. It passes over the lush river valley of Sungai Wos, offering views of Gunung Agung and glimpses of small village communities and rice fields.

Continuing north along the Campuan ridge, the road improves as it passes through rice paddies and the small village of Bangkiang Sidem. On the outskirts of the village, an unsigned road heads west, which winds down to Sungai Cerik (the west branch of Sungai Wos), then climbs steeply up to Payogan. From here you can walk south to the main road and on to the centre of Ubud.

zFestivals & Events

The Ubud area is one of the best places to see the many religious and cultural events celebrated in Bali each year. The tourist office is unmatched for its comprehensive information on events each week.

Bali Spirit FestivalDANCE, MUSIC

(www.balispiritfestival.com; day pass US$156; hlate Mar/early Apr)

A popular yoga, dance and music festival from the people behind the Yoga Barn, a local yoga hub. There are more than 100 workshops and concerts, plus a market and more.

Ubud Writers & Readers FestivalLITERATURE

(www.ubudwritersfestival.com; 1-day pass 1,200,000Rp; hlate Oct/early Nov)

Brings together scores of writers and readers from around the world in a celebration of writing – especially writing that touches on Bali. A major event on the Ubud calendar.

4Sleeping

Ubud has the best and most appealing range of places to stay in Bali, including fabled resorts, artful guesthouses, and charming, simple homestays.

It enjoys cool mountain air at night, so air-con isn't necessary, and with your windows open, you'll hear the symphony of sounds off the rice fields and river valleys.

Central Ubud

Happy Mango TreeHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3844 5498; www.thehappymangotree.com; Jl Bisma 27; dm/d from 100,000/250,000Rp; W)

This bright and bubbly hostel revels in its hippie vibe. Bright colours abound inside the rooms and out on the various terraces, some of which have rice-field views. Mixed dorms have four or five beds; doubles come with names (and matching decor) such as Love Shack and Ceiling Museum. There's a social bar and a restaurant, too.

Han Snel Siti BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975699; www.sitibungalow.com; Jl Kajeng 3; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 250,000/350,000Rp; aWs)

Owned by the family of the late Han Snel, a well-known Dutch painter, Siti Bungalows is one of Ubud's original guesthouses. While its standards have slipped, it remains excellent value and a wonderful choice for those seeking somewhere with character, a delightful garden and spacious bungalows – some of which overlook the river gorge.

d'Rompok HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0353-344837; drompokhouse@yahoo.com; Jl Hanoman 39; r incl breakfast 250,000Rp; aW)

Tucked down a tight gang, the well-priced d'Rompok is more suave than your usual homestay, with large modern rooms decorated with contemporary art. Go for one of the top-floor rooms with views of the rice fields.

Eka's HomestayHOMESTAY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-970550; eka_sutawan@yahoo.com; Jl Sriwedari 8; s/d incl breakfast 200,000/250,000Rp; W)

Follow your ears to this nice little family compound with seven basic rooms. Eka's is the home of Wayan Pasek Sucipta, a teacher of Balinese music. It's in a nice sunny spot on a quiet road (well, except during practice times).

BiangsHOMESTAY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976520; wah_oeboed@yahoo.com; Jl Sukma 28; s/d with fan 100,000/200,000Rp, r with air-con 300,000Rp; aW)

In a little garden, Biangs (meaning 'mama') homestay has six well-maintained rooms, with hot water. The friendly family makes it feel like a genuine homestay, and its residential street has a local feel.

Nirvana PensionGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975415; www.nirvanaku.com; Jl Goutama 10; s/d/tr with fan 250,000/350,000/500,000Rp, s/d with air-con 350,000/450,000Rp; aW)

Nirvana has alang-alang (thatched roofs), a plethora of paintings, ornate doorways and six rooms with modern bathrooms, all set in a shady, secluded locale next to a large family temple. Batik courses are also held here. It's a great location, back off trendy Goutama.

oOka Wati HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973386; www.okawatihotel.com; off Monkey Forest Rd; r incl breakfast US$65-115; aWs)

Owner Oka Wati is a lovely lady who grew up near the Ubud Palace. Go for a room in the old wing, where the decor features vintage detail and some rooms have views over a small rice field and river valley. Rooms have large verandahs, where the delightful staff will deliver your choice of breakfast (don't miss the house-made yoghurt).

Tegal SariHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973318; www.tegalsari-ubud.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; r 330,000-990,000Rp; aiWs)

Though literally a stone's throw from the hectic main road, here rice fields (along with ducks) miraculously materialize. Go for a superdeluxe cottage (770,000Rp) with bathtub looking out to wonderful bucolic views. Units in the new brick buildings, on the other hand, are stark. It has two pools, including one on the rooftop, and a yoga space.

ShiftDESIGN HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theshifthotelbali.com; Jl Raya Penestanan Kelod; r incl breakfast US$49-79; aW)

Set in an old renovated apartment, this hipster, vegan hotel has your classic motel configuration but with plenty of rock-and-roll panache. The modern rooms are comfortable and include minibars and fibre-optic wi-fi. The rooftop deck has sunloungers, a restaurant, a single-origin speciality cafe, a raw vegan sushi bar and a yoga space that's also used for movies and dance parties.

Puri Saren AgungGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975057; Jl Suweta 1; r US$75; a)

Part of the Ubud royal family's historic palace, three rooms are tucked behind the courtyard where the dance performances are held. Accommodation is in traditional Balinese pavilions, with big verandahs, four-poster beds, antique furnishings and hot water. Give a royal wave to wandering tourists from your patio.

Sambahan & Sakti

Going north from Jl Raya Ubud, you are soon in rolling terraces of rice fields. Tucked away here you'll find interesting and often luxurious hotels, and you can have a beautiful walk to the centre.

Bali Asli LodgeHOMESTAY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-970537; www.baliaslilodge.com; Jl Suweta; r incl breakfast 300,000Rp; W)

Escape the central Ubud hubbub here. Made is your friendly host, and her four rooms are in traditional Balinese stone-and-brick houses set on verdant gardens. There are terraces where you can let the hours pass; interiors are clean and comfy. Town is a 15-minute walk.

Ketut's PlaceGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975304; www.ketutsplace.com; Jl Suweta 40; r incl breakfast with fan 500,000Rp, with air-con 600,000Rp; aiWs)

A step up from the usual temple compound homestays, here the rooms all have artful accents and river-valley views. A dramatic pool shimmers down the hillside. Rooms range from basic with fans to deluxe versions with air-con and bathtubs.

Ubud Sari Health ResortGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974393; www.ubudsari.com; Jl Kajeng; r/villa from US$50/60; aWs)

Overlooking a bubbling stream and surrounded by forest, the 21 rooms at this noted health spa have a name that says it all: Zen Village. The plants in the gardens are labelled for their medicinal qualities, and the cafe serves organic, vegetarian fare. Guests can use the health facilities, including the sauna and whirlpool.

Wapa di UmeRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973178; www.wapadiumeubud.com; Jl Suweta; r incl breakfast & activities from US$280, villas from US$417; aiWs)

Located a gentle 2.5km uphill from the centre, this elegant compound enjoys engrossing verdant views across rice fields. New and old styles mix in the 33 large units; go for a villa with a view. Service is superb yet relaxed. Listening to gamelan practice echoing across the fields at night is quite magical. There's a shuttle bus on the hour to central Ubud.

Nyuhkuning

A popular area just south of the Monkey Forest, Nyuhkuning has some creative guesthouses and hotels, yet is not a long walk to the centre.

Swasti Eco CottagesGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974079; www.baliswasti.com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 650,000/750,000Rp; aiWs)

A five-minute walk from the south entrance to the Monkey Forest, this guesthouse and bungalow compound has large grounds that feature an organic garden (produce is used in the cafe). Some of the rooms are in simple two-storey blocks; others are in vintage traditional houses brought here from across Bali. Swasti also offers a mix of Balinese classes and workshops.

Alam IndahHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974629; www.alamindahbali.com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r incl breakfast US$65-135; aWs)

Just south of the Monkey Forest, this isolated and spacious resort has 16 rooms that are beautifully finished in natural materials to traditional designs. The Wos Valley views are entrancing, especially from the multilevel pool area. There's a free shuttle into central Ubud.

Campuan & Sanggingan

The long sloping road that takes its names from these two communities has a number of upscale properties on its east side that overlook a lush river valley.

Hotel TjampuhanHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975368; www.tjampuhan-bali.com; Jl Raya Campuan; r incl breakfast US$95-180; aiWs)

This venerable 69-room place overlooks the confluence of Sungai Wos (Wos River) and Campuan. The influential German artist Walter Spies lived here in the 1930s, and his former home, which sleeps four people, is part of the hotel. Bungalow-style units spill down the hill and enjoy mesmerising valley and temple views.

oWarwick Ibah Luxury VillasHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974466; www.warwickibah.com; off Jl Raya Campuan; ste/villa incl breakfast from US$255/440; aWs)

Overlooking the rushing waters and rice-clad hills of the Wos Valley, the Ibah offers refined luxury in spacious, stylish individual suites and villas that combine ancient and modern details. Each could be a feature in an interior-design magazine. The swimming pool is set into the hillside amid gardens and lavish stone carvings.

Penestanan

Just west of the Campuan bridge, steep Jl Raya Penestanan branches off to the left and climbs up and around to Penestanan, a large plateau of rice fields and lodgings.

oSantra PutraGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977810; wayankarja@gmail.com; off Jl Raya Campuan; r incl breakfast 300,000-400,000Rp; W)

Run by internationally exhibited abstract artist I Wayan Karja (whose studio-gallery is also on-site), this place has 11 big, open, airy rooms with hot water. Enjoy paddy-field views from all vantage points. Painting and drawing classes are offered by the artist.

Villa NirvanaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-979419; www.villanirvanabali.com; Penestanan; r incl breakfast US$120-250; aWs)

You may find nirvana reaching Villa Nirvana: access is along a 150m path through a small river valley from the west or along a rice-field path from the top of steep steps from the east. The eight-room compound, designed by local architect Awan Sukhro Edhi, is a serene retreat. Rates include shuttle service and free loan of a mobile phone.

Sayan & Ayung Valley

Two kilometres west of Ubud, the fast-flowing Sungai Ayung (Ayung River) has carved out a deep valley, its sides sculpted into terraced paddy fields or draped in thick rainforest. Overlooking this verdant valley are some of Bali's best hotels.

oBambu IndahBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975124; www.bambuindah.com; Banjar Baung; s/d incl breakfast US$110/150; Ws)

Famed expat entrepreneur John Hardy sold his jewellery company in 2007 and became a hotelier. On a ridge near Sayan and his beloved Sungai Ayung, he's assembled a compound of 100-year-old royal Javanese houses and a stunning Sumbanese thatched house; each space is furnished with style and flair. Several outbuildings create a timeless village with underpinnings of luxury. Free shuttle into central Ubud.

Sayan TerraceHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974384; www.sayanterraceresort.com; Jl Raya Sayan; r/villa incl breakfast from US$100/175; aiWs)

Gaze into the Sayan Valley from this venerable, but slightly dated, hotel and you'll understand why this was the site of composer Colin McPhee's book A House in Bali. Stay here while your neighbours housed in luxury resorts pay far more. The 12 rooms and villas are simply decorated but are large and have that view. Rates include afternoon tea.

Mandapa Ritz CarltonVILLA$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-4792777; www.ritzcarlton.com; Jl Kedewatan; ste/villa incl breakfast & activities from US$575/870; aW)

Epic doesn't even begin to describe the extent to which this stunning resort soars. Sprawling over 5.5 hectares, it's the size of a small village, and set in a spectacular valley enclosed by rice fields. The stars of the show are the villas on the riverfront, but you can't go wrong in any of the villas or suites.

Kubu restaurant is worth a visit even if you're not staying here, both for its scenic riverfront location and its five-course degustation menu.

AmandariHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975333; www.amanresorts.com; Sayan; ste incl breakfast from US$950; aiWs)

In Kedewatan village, the storied Amandari does everything with the charm and grace of a classical Balinese dancer. Superb views over the jungle and down to the river – the 30m green-tiled swimming pool seems to drop right over the edge – are just some of the inducements. The 30 private pavilions may prove inescapable.

Peliatan

Located 3km east of Ubud Palace, the Peliatan area has a relaxed rural feel, sans traffic jams and tourists.

oMaya UbudHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977888; www.mayaubud.com; Jl Gunung Sari Peliatan; r/villa incl breakfast & activities from US$330/545; aiWs)

One of the most beautiful large hotels around Ubud, this massive 10-hectare property is superbly integrated into its surrounding river valley and rice fields. The 108 rooms and villas have the sort of open and light feeling combined with traditional materials that defines the concept of 'Bali style'. The infinity pool overlooking the jungle is wonderful, as is its spa complex.

5Eating

Ubud's cafes and restaurants are some of the best in Bali. Local and expat chefs produce a bounty of authentic Balinese dishes, as well as inventive Asian and international cuisines. It's also known for its organic and vegetarian fare. (Click here)

Central Ubud

Warung Ibu OkaBALINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Suweta; mains from 50,000Rp; h11am-7pm)

Opposite Ubud Palace, lunchtime crowds are waiting for one thing: Balinese-style roast babi guling (suckling pig). Order a spesial to get the best cut.

Tutmak CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975754; www.tutmak.com; Jl Dewi Sita; mains 30,000-90,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)

This smart, breezy multilevel terrace restaurant is a popular place for a refreshing drink or something to munch on from the menu of Indo classics. The nasi campur with fresh tuna is one of Ubud's finest.

Gelato SecretsGELATERIA$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gelatosecrets.com; Jl Raya Ubud; from 25,000Rp; h10.30am-11pm)

On Ubud's main drag, this temple to frozen goodness has fresh flavours made from local fruits and spices, such as dragonfruit cinnamon or cashew black sesame. It also has a branch on Monkey Forest Road ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gelatosecrets.com; Monkey Forest Rd; h10am-10.30pm).

oWaroeng BernadetteINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4742 4779; Jl Goutama; mains from 60,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)

It's not called the 'Home of Rendang' for nothing. The west Sumatran classic dish of long-marinated meats (beef is the true classic, but here there's also a veggie jackfruit variety) is pulled off with colour and flair. Other dishes have a zesty zing missing from lacklustre versions served elsewhere. The elevated dining room is a vision of kitsch.

Hujon LocaleINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-849 3092; www.hujanlocale.com; Jl Sriwedari 5; mains 110,000-200,000Rp; hnoon-10pm; W)

From the team of the critically acclaimed Mama San in Seminyak, Hujon Locale is one of Ubud's finest restaurants. The menu mixes traditional Indonesian dishes with modern, creative flair, from Sulawesi salt-baked barramundi, Achenese prawn curry to slow-braised Sumatran lamb curry. The setting within a chic colonial-style two-storey bungalow is made for a balmy evening.

WatercressCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.watercressubud.com; Monkey Forest Rd; mains 90,000-150,000Rp; h7.30am-11pm; W)

Riding on the success of the hip Canggu cafe, the Ubud version attracts a young fashionable crowd for quality Western food. It has a stylish double-level open-air setting, does creative all-day breakfasts, and offers a menu leaning towards Modern Australian: fresh salads, awesome fish burgers with crispy chat potatoes, king prawn linguine and charred lamp chops.

Siti's Warung Little IndiaINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 9962 4555; Jl Sukma 36; mains from 45,000Rp; h10am-10pm)

Run by the delightful Siti, this character-filled Indian restaurant is decked out in vintage Bollywood posters and accompanied by a soundtrack of Hindi pop. Its thalis, samosas and masala chai are all delicious and authentic. Also delivers tiffins.

Fair Warung BaléINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975370; www.fairfuturefoundation.org; Jl Sriwedari 6; mains 45,000-75,000Rp; h11am-10pm)S

Mellow by day, hotspot by night; there are often queues in the evenings to get a table at this attractive upstairs restaurant. It's run by a Swiss-based NGO and 100% of proceeds go to healthcare in the local community. Food ranges from local curries to freshly baked baguettes with tuna tartare.

Three MonkeysFUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.threemonkeyscafebali.com; Monkey Forest Rd; meals from 60,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)

Order a kaffir-lime mojito and settle back amid the frog symphony of the rice fields. Add the glow of tiki torches for a magical effect. By day there are sandwiches, salads and gelato. At night there’s a fusion menu of Asian classics. The staff are very friendly.

Il GiardinoITALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974271; www.ilgiardinobali.com; Jl Kajeng; mains 60,000-150,000Rp; h5-10.30pm; W)

This romantic outdoor Italian restaurant has a beautiful setting overlooking a lily pond and the gallery of Dutch painter Han Snel. It does aperitivo, wood-fired pizzas, homemade pastas and hearty Italian mains.

ElementINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4419 7198; Jl Penestanan; mains 55,000-105,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W)

A charming little roadside eatery hidden on the backstreets, Element does fresh lunches such as house-smoked ham baguettes or grilled tuna burgers. The locally inspired Kintamani pork belly is popular. Look out for the amusing 'thought for the day' on the chalkboard outside.

oLocavoreFUSION$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977733; www.restaurantlocavore.com; Jl Dewi Sita; 5-/7-course degustation 475,000/575,000Rp; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm; aW)

The foodie heaven in Ubud, this temple to locally sourced, ultra-creative foods is the town's toughest table. Book weeks in advance. Meals are degustation and can top out at nine courses; expect this cuisine nirvana to last upwards of three hours. Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah in the open kitchen are magicians; enjoy the show.

Up the road there is also Locavore to Go ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977733; Jl Dewi Sita; from 75,000Rp; h8.30am-6pm; W), which is good for brunch, with the likes of breakfast burgers and banh mi.

oMozaicFUSION$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975768; www.mozaic-bali.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; 6-course menu 700,000Rp; h6-10pm; W)

Chef Chris Salans oversees this much-lauded top-end restaurant. Fine French fusion cuisine features on a constantly changing seasonal menu that takes its influences from tropical Asia. Dine in an elegant garden or an ornate pavilion. Choose from four tasting menus, one of which is a surprise.

HEALTHY & ORGANIC UBUD

With its beautiful surrounds, fresh climate and being a champion of the arts, Ubud has long been a place travellers come to nourish the soul. As a current hotspot for yoga, meditation and organic healthy living, it’s also the place for all things vegetarian, vegan, raw food and detox.

The Ubud Organic Market (www.ubudorganicmarket.com; h9am-1pm Wed & Sat) operates twice a week: Wednesdays at Warung Sopa and Saturdays at Pizza Bagus. Bali Buda's BudaMart ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.balibuda.com; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-8pm) is a good source for organic, seasonal produce.

Raw Food Bali (www.rawfoodbali.com) is an excellent resource for everything healthy and organic in Ubud and beyond.

Sari OrganikHEALTH FOOD$

(Warung Bodag Maliah; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972087; Subak Sok Wayah; meals from 38,000Rp; h8am-8pm)S

In a beautiful location on a plateau overlooking rice terraces and river valleys, this attractive cafe is in the middle of a big organic farm. The food's healthy and the drinks are cool and refreshing. The walk through the rice fields means half the fun is getting here.

Warung SopaVEGETARIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-276 5897; Jl Sugriwa 36; mains 30,000-60,000Rp; h8am-9.30pm; Wv)

This popular open-air place in a residential street captures the Ubud vibe with creative and (more importantly) tasty vegetarian fare with a Balinese twist. Look for specials of the day on display; the ever-changing nasi campur is a treat.

Bali BudaCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976324; www.balibuda.com; Jl Jembawan 1; meals from 30,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm; v)

This breezy upper-floor place offers a full range of vegetarian jamu (health tonics), salads, sandwiches, savoury crepes, pizzas and gelato. The bulletin board downstairs is packed with idiosyncratic Ubud notices.

Earth Cafe & MarketVEGETARIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dtebali.com/earth-cafe-market-ubud; Jl Gotama Selatan; meals from 30,000Rp; Wv)

'Eliminate Free Radicals' is but one of many healthy drinks at this hard-core outpost for vegetarian organic dining and drinking. The seemingly endless menu has a plethora of soups, salads and platters that are heavy on Med flavours. There's a market on the main floor.

AlchemyVEGAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971981; www.alchemybali.com; Jl Raya Penestanan 75; mains from 50,000Rp; h7am-9pm; Wv)

A prototypical 100% vegan Ubud restaurant, Alchemy features a vast customised salad menu as well as cashew-milk drinks, durian smoothies, ice cream, fennel juice and a lot more. The raw-chocolate desserts are addictive.

Juice Ja CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971056; Jl Dewi Sita; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)S

Glass of spirulina? Dash of wheat grass with your papaya juice? Organic fruits and vegetables go into the food at this funky bakery-cafe. Little brochures explain the provenance of items such as the organic cashew nuts. Enjoy the patio.

Yellow Flower CafeINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-889 9865; off Jl Raya Campuan; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W)

New Age Indonesian right up in Penestanan along a little path through the rice fields. Organic mains such as nasi campur or rice pancakes are good; snackers will delight in the decent coffees, cakes and smoothies. From 5.30pm Sunday evenings there's an excellent Balinese buffet (99,000Rp).

9 WarungVEGETARIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 776 768; Jl Lodtunduh; per item 3000Rp; h10.30am-9.30pm; v)

A unique self-service system where customers serve themselves vegetarian and vegan dishes (3000Rp per spoonful), wash their own dishes and calculate the bill before paying using a trust system.

ElephantVEGETARIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-716 1907; www.elephantbali.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; mains 60,000-150,000Rp; h8am-9.30pm; Wv)

High-concept vegetarian dining with gorgeous views across the Sungai Cerik valley. Foods are well seasoned, interesting and topped off with an especially good dessert menu.

6Drinking & Nightlife

No one comes to Ubud for wild nightlife. A few bars get lively around sunset and later in the night, but the venues often close by 11pm.

oCoffee Studio SenimanCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972085; www.senimancoffee.com; Jl Sriwedari; coffee 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm; aW)

That 'coffee studio' moniker isn't for show; all the equipment is on display at this temple of single-origin coffee. Take a seat on the designer rocker chairs and choose from an array of pourovers, siphon, Aeropress or espresso using a range of quality Indonesian beans. It's also popular for food (mains from 40,000Rp) and drinks in the evening.

CP LoungeBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %361 978 954; www.cp-lounge.com; Monkey Forest Rd; h11am-4am)

Open till early morning, CP is the place to kick on once everything else has closed. It has garden seating, live bands and a club with DJ and sound system.

Melting PotSPORTS BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0858 5748 0230; www.meltingpotbali.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan 22; h11am-2am)

While a sports bar may seem at odds with artsy Ubud, this Texan-run pool hall does a good job of catering to expat needs with live AFL, NRL, Premier League and American sports. It attracts a diverse crowd through its quality diner food (awesome cheeseburgers), pool tables and rock and roll.

3Entertainment

Few travel experiences are more magical than attending a Balinese dance performance, especially while in Ubud.

In a week in Ubud you can see Kecak, Legong and Barong dances, wayang kulit shadow puppets, gamelan orchestras and more.

Fabulous Ubud has performance information and sells tickets (usually 80,000Rp). For performances outside Ubud, transport is often included in the price. Tickets are also sold at the venues and by street vendors who hang around outside Ubud Palace; all tickets cost the same price.

Ubud PalaceDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)

Performances are held here almost nightly against a beautiful backdrop.

Pura Dalem UbudDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)

At the west end of Jl Raya Ubud, this open-air venue has a flame-lit carved-stone backdrop and is one of the most evocative places to see a dance performance.

Pura Taman SaraswatiDANCE

(Ubud Water Palace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)

The beauty of the setting may distract you from the dancers, although at night you can’t see the lily pads and lotus flowers that are such an attraction by day.

Arma Open StageDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976659; Jl Raya Pengosekan)

Has among the best troupes performing Kecak and Legong dance.

Oka KartiniPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975193; Jl Raya Ubud; adult/child 100,000/50,000Rp; h8pm Wed, Fri & Sun)

Regular shadow-puppet shows are held at Oka Kartini, which also has an art gallery.

DON'T MISS

BALINESE DANCE

Dance and musical performances are the result of an ever-evolving culture with a legacy that's centuries long. Rigid choreography and discipline are hallmarks of beautiful, melodic Balinese dance, a performance of which no visitor should miss.

Kecak

Probably the best-known dance. With its spellbinding, hair-raising atmosphere, the Kecak features a 'choir' of men and boys who sit in concentric circles and slip into a trance as they chant and sing 'chak-a-chak-a-chak', imitating a troupe of monkeys. Sometimes called the 'vocal gamelan', this is the only music to accompany the dance re-enactment from the Hindu epic Ramayana, the familiar love story about Prince Rama and his Princess Sita.

Barong & Rangda

The Barong is a good but mischievous and fun-loving shaggy dog-lion, with huge eyes and a mouth that clacks away to much dramatic effect. Because this character is the protector of a village, the actors playing the Barong (who are utterly lost under layers of fur-clad costume) will emote a variety of winsome antics.

Meanwhile, the widow-witch Rangda is bad through and through. The Queen of Black Magic, the character's monstrous persona can include flames shooting out her ears, a tongue dripping with fire, a mane of wild hair and large breasts.

The story features a duel between the Rangda and the Barong, whose supporters draw their kris (traditional dagger) and rush in to help. The long-tongued, sharp-fanged Rangda throws them into a trance, making them stab themselves. It's quite a spectacle. Thankfully, the Barong casts a spell that neutralises the kris power so it cannot harm them.

Legong

Characterised by flashing eyes and quivering hands, this most graceful of Balinese dances is performed by young girls. Their talent is so revered that in old age, a classic dancer will be remembered as a 'great Legong'.

Peliatan's famous dance troupe, Gunung Sari, often seen in Ubud, is particularly noted for its Legong Keraton (Legong of the Palace). The very stylised and symbolic story involves two Legong dancing in mirror image. They are elaborately made up and dressed in gold brocade, relating a story about a king who takes a maiden captive and consequently starts a war, in which he dies.

7Shopping

Ubud has myriad art shops, boutiques and galleries. Many offer clever and unique items made in and around the area. It's the ideal base for exploring the enormous number of craft galleries, studios and workshops in villages north and south. For indie boutiques, your best bet is Jl Hanoman and Jl Dewi Sita.

oThreads of Life Indonesian Textile Arts CenterTEXTILES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972187; www.threadsoflife.com; Jl Kajeng 24; h10am-7pm)

This small, professional textile gallery and shop sponsors the production of naturally dyed, handmade ritual textiles from around Indonesia. It exists to help recover skills in danger of being lost to modern dyeing and weaving methods. Commissioned pieces are displayed in the gallery, which has good explanatory material. Also runs regular textile appreciation courses.

oRio Helmi Gallery & CafeARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-978773; www.riohelmi.com; Jl Suweta 06B; h7am-7pm)

Noted photographer and Ubud resident Rio Helmi has a small commercial gallery where you can admire or purchase examples of his journalistic and artistic work.

KevalaCERAMICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kevalaceramics.com; Jl Dewi Sita; h9am-7.30pm)

Fitting right in along this boutiquey strip, Kevala is famous for its handmade and handpainted contemporary ceramic designs and homewares.

Ubud MarketSOUVENIRS

(Pasar Seni; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud; h7am-8pm)

The large Ubud Market is your one-stop shop for kitschy souvenirs, clothing and presents for back home. It's inside a large complex; stallholders set up across several buildings, and also along Jl Karna.

Ganesha BookshopBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ganeshabooksbali.com; Jl Raya Ubud; h9am-8pm)

A quality bookshop with an excellent selection of titles on Indonesian studies, travel, arts, music, fiction (including used books) and maps. Good staff recommendations.

KouBEAUTY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971905; Jl Dewi Sita; h9am-8pm)

The perfume of luxurious locally handmade organic soaps wafts as you enter. Put some in your undies drawer and it'll smell fine for weeks. The range is unlike that found in chain stores selling luxe soap. It also operates Kou Cuisine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972319; Monkey Forest Rd; h10am-8pm), which specialises in homemade jams.

AshitabaHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-464922; Jl Hanoman; h10am-8pm)

Tenganan, the Aga village of east Bali, is where the beautiful rattan items sold here are produced. Containers, bowls, purses and more (from US$5) display the fine and intricate weaving.

Goddess on the Go!CLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976084; www.goddessonthego.net; Jl Raya Pengosekan; h9am-8pm)

A large selection of ecofriendly women's clothes made to be supercomfortable with modal fibre.

RumbleCLOTHING

(Rmbl; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.xrmblx.co; Jl Raya Campuhan; h9am-10pm)

Owned by the drummer of reputed Balinese punk act Superman is Dead, Rumble stocks a cool selection of locally designed streetwear.

MoariMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977367; Jl Raya Ubud; h10am-8pm)

New and restored Balinese musical instruments are sold here. Splurge on a cute little bamboo flute for 30,000Rp.

8Information

Along the main roads you’ll find most services you need, including lots of ATMs.

oFabulous UbudTOURIST INFORMATION

(Yaysan Bina Wisata; GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973285; www.fabulousubud.com; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-8pm)

Set up by the Ubud royal family, this is the one really useful tourist office in Bali. It has a good range of information and a noticeboard listing current happenings and activities. The staff can answer most regional questions and have up-to-date information on ceremonies and traditional dances held in the area; dance tickets are sold here.

HubudINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-978073; www.hubud.org; Monkey Forest Rd; per month from US$60; h24hr Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; iW)

One for the digital nomads, this co-working space and digital hub has ultrafast web connections, developer seminars and much more. Take in rice-field views as you create a billion-dollar app.

8Getting There & Away

Bemo

Ubud is on two bemo routes. Bemos travel to Gianyar (10,000Rp) and Batubulan terminal in Denpasar (13,000Rp). Ubud doesn't have a bemo terminal; there are bemo stops on Jl Suweta near the market in the centre of town.

Tourist Shuttle Bus

Perama ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973316; www.peramatours.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; h9am-9pm) is the major tourist-shuttle operator. Destinations include Kuta (60,000Rp, two hours), Sanur (50,000Rp, one hour), Padangbai (75,000Rp, two hours), Lovina (125,000Rp, three hours) and Amed (175,000Rp, 3½ hours).

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Taxis with the cartel from the airport to Ubud cost 300,000Rp. A car with driver to the airport will cost around 250,000Rp. The Perama shuttle leaves Ubud three times a day (60,000Rp, two hours).

Bicycle

Shops renting bikes have their cycles on display along the main roads. Ubud Scooter Rental is a good, central bet.

Car & Motorcycle

With numerous nearby attractions, many of which are difficult to reach by bemo, renting a vehicle is sensible.

Ubud Scooter RentalBICYCLE RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972170; www.ubudbikerental.com; Jl Raya Ubud; bicycle/motorbike per day 25,000Rp/50,000Rp; h9am-5pm)

A reputable operator renting bicycles, scooters and motorbikes.

Taxi

There are no metered taxis based in Ubud; those that are honking their horns at you have usually dropped off passengers from southern Bali in Ubud and are hoping for a fare back. Instead you'll use one of the ubiquitous drivers with private vehicles hanging around on the streets hectoring passer-by (the better drivers politely hold up signs that say 'transport').

Most of the drivers charge very fairly; a few – often from out of the area – not so much. If you find a driver you like, get their number and call them for rides during your stay. From central Ubud to, say, Sanggingan should cost about 50,000Rp, which is rather steep. A ride from the palace to the end of Jl Hanoman should cost about 30,000Rp.

It's easy to get a ride on the back of a motorbike; rates are half those of cars.

Around Ubud

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The immediate region surrounding Ubud has many of the most ancient monuments and relics in Bali. Some of them predate the Majapahit era and raise as-yet unanswered questions about Bali’s history. Others are more recent, and in other instances newer structures have been built on and around the ancient remains.

South of Ubud

The roads between Ubud and south Bali are lined with little shops that make and sell handicrafts. Many visitors shop along the route as they head to and from Ubud, sometimes by the busload. Much of the craftwork, though, is actually done in small workshops and family compounds on quiet back roads.

Bedulu

Bedulu was once the capital of a great kingdom. The legendary Dalem Bedaulu ruled the Pejeng dynasty from here, and was the last Balinese king to withstand the onslaught of the powerful Majapahit from Java. He was defeated by Gajah Mada in 1343. The capital shifted several times after this, to Gelgel and then later to Semarapura (Klungkung).

1Sights

Goa GajahCAVE

(Elephant Cave; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Goa Gajah; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking motorcycle/car 2000/5000Rp; h8am-5.30pm)

There were never any elephants in Bali (until tourist attractions changed that); ancient Goa Gajah probably takes its name from the nearby Sungai Petanu, which at one time was known as Elephant River, or perhaps because the face over the cave entrance might resemble an elephant. It's located some 2km southeast of Ubud on the road to Bedulu.

The origins of the cave are uncertain; one tale relates that it was created by the fingernail of the legendary giant Kebo Iwa. It probably dates to the 11th century, and was certainly in existence during the Majapahit takeover of Bali. The cave was rediscovered by Dutch archaeologists in 1923, but the fountains and pool were not found until 1954.

The cave is carved into a rock face and you enter through the cavernous mouth of a demon. Inside the T-shaped cave you can see fragmentary remains of the lingam, the phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva, and its female counterpart the yoni, plus a statue of Shiva's son, the elephant-headed god Ganesha. In the courtyard in front of the cave are two square bathing pools with water trickling into them from waterspouts held by six female figures.

From Goa Gajah you can clamber down through the rice paddies to Sungai Petanu, where there are crumbling rock carvings of stupas (domes for housing Buddhist relics) on a cliff face, and a small cave.

Try to get here before 10am, which is when the big tourist buses begin lumbering into the large souvenir-stall-filled parking lot like, well, elephants.

Yeh PuluHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp; h8am-5.30pm)

A man having his hand munched by a boar is one of the scenes on the 25m-long carved cliff face known as Yeh Pulu, believed to be a hermitage from the late 14th century. Apart from the figure of Ganesha, the elephant-headed son of Hindu god Shiva, most of the scenes deal with everyday life, although the position and movement of the figures suggest that it could be read from left to right as a story. One theory is that they are events from the life of Krishna, the Hindu god.

Even if your interest in carved Hindu art is minor, this site is quite lovely and rarely will you have much company. From the entrance, it's a 300m lush, tropical walk to Yeh Pulu.

8Getting There & Away

About 3km east of Teges, the road from Ubud reaches a junction where you can turn south to Gianyar or north to Pejeng, Tampaksiring and Penelokan; for Bedulu follow the signs to Goa Gajah.

Bali Bird Park

Bali Bird ParkBIRD SANCTUARY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0316-299352; www.bali-bird-park.com; Jl Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir; adult/child 2-12yr 432,000/216,000Rp; h9am-5.30pm)

More than 1000 birds from 250 species flit about here, including rare cendrawasih (birds of paradise) from West Papua and the all-but-vanished Bali starlings. Many are housed in special walk-through aviaries; in one of the aviaries you follow a walk at tree-level, or what some with feathers might say is bird-level. A reptile section includes a Komodo dragon. It's popular with kids; allow at least two hours. It's located in Batubulan, halfway between Ubud and Denpasar.

Sukawati

Sukawati is a centre for the manufacture of wind chimes, temple umbrellas and masks.

Wayang kulit and topeng (wooden masks used in funerary dances) are also made in the backstreets of Sukawati, about 1km northwest of the main road.

oSukawati MarketMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Sukawati, Sukawati; h6am-8pm)

Sukawati Market is a highlight of any visit to the area. Always lively, this large market is a major source of the flowers, baskets, fruits, knick-knacks and other items used in temple offerings. It's a riot of colour.

Mas

Mas means ‘gold’, but woodcarving, particularly mask carving, is the craft practised here. The road through Mas is lined with craft shops for the tour buses, but there are plenty of smaller carving operations in the back lanes.

The galleries become ever-more glitzy the further north and closer to Ubud you get.

1Sights

oSetia Darma House of Masks & PuppetsMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-898 7493; Jl Tegal Bingin; suggested donation 35,000Rp; h8am-4pm)F

This is one of the best museums in the Ubud area, home to more than 7000 ceremonial masks and puppets from Bali, Indonesia, Asia and beyond. All are beautifully displayed in a series of renovated historic buildings. Among the many treasures, look for the golden Jero Luh Mask, and the faces of royalty, mythical monsters and even common people. The museum is about 2km northeast of the main Mas crossroads.

DON'T MISS

BALI'S CHOCOLATE FACTORY

You might think Swiss or Belgian when you think chocolate but soon you could be thinking Bali. Big Tree Farms ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-846 3327; www.bigtreefarms.com; Sibang; tours with/without bookings 40,000/60,000Rp; htours 2pm Mon-Fri), a local producer of quality foodstuffs that has made a big splash internationally, has built a chocolate factory about 10km southwest of Ubud in the village of Sibang.

And this is not just any factory: rather it is a huge and architecturally stunning creation made sustainably from bamboo. This emphasis on sustainable practice extends to the company's very philosophy.

The chocolate made here comes from cocoa beans grown by more than 13,000 farmers across Indonesia. The result is a very high-quality chocolate that you can watch being made on a tour.

Just seeing one of the world's largest bamboo structures is an attraction in itself; toss in getting to sample the chocolate – from raw cacao to the finished product – and you've landed an all-round delectable experience.

Reaching the factory is easy as Sibang is on one of the roads linking Ubud to south Bali. A taxi here is around 100,000Rp, including waiting time.

North of Ubud

Tampaksiring

Tampaksiring is a small village, about 18km northeast of Ubud. It has a large and important temple, Tirta Empul, and the most impressive ancient site in Bali, Gunung Kawi. It sits in the Pakerisan Valley, and the entire area has been nominated for Unesco recognition.

1Sights

oGunung KawiMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child incl sarong 15,000/7500Rp, parking 2000Rp; h7am-6pm)

At the bottom of a lush green river valley lies one of Bali's oldest and largest ancient monuments. Gunung Kawi consists of 10 rock-cut candi (shrines) – memorials cut out of the rock face in imitation of actual statues. They stand in awe-inspiring 8m-high sheltered niches cut into the sheer cliff face. Be prepared for long climbs – there are more than 270 steps. The views as you walk through ancient terraced rice fields are as fine as any on Bali.

Tirta EmpulMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking 2000Rp; h7am-6pm)

A well-signposted fork in the road north of Tampaksiring leads to the popular holy springs at Tirta Empul, discovered in AD 962 and believed to have magical powers. The springs bubble up into a large, crystal-clear pool within the temple and gush out through waterspouts into a bathing pool.

8Getting There & Away

Tampaksiring is an easy day trip from Ubud, or a stop between Ubud and Danau Batur. Tirta Empul and Gunung Kawi are easy to find along the Penelokan–Ubud road, and are only about 1.5km apart.

Elephant Safari Park

Elephant Safari ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-721480; www.baliadventuretours.com; Taro; tours incl transport adult/child US$65/44; h8am-6pm)

Abandoned and abused logging elephants from Sumatra have been given refuge at this camp in the cool, wet highlands of Taro (14km north of Ubud). Besides seeing a full complement of exhibits about elephants, you can ride one of 31 residents for an extra fee. Be aware that animal welfare groups claim elephant rides are harmful for the pachyderms, so it's worth reading up on the issues involved if you're considering that option.

While far from a perfect model (metal 'gancho' hooks are used on the elephants, which are chained up when unattended), this park has been praised for its conservation efforts. Be careful you don't end up at one of the rogue copycat parks, designed to divert the unwary to less salubrious elephant encounters.