Aceh
Over the years, this far-flung corner of the Indonesian archipelago has grabbed headlines for all the wrong reasons. Earthquakes, tsunamis, civil war and sharia law are the main associations people have with Sumatra’s northernmost state. With the reconstruction from the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami long completed, post-tsunami Aceh is slowly healing the social wounds incurred by the natural disaster and the previous civil war. Still, while the guns have been laid down and a degree of autonomy has been granted to the province, there are occasional blips on the road to peace such as the April 2015 murder of two Indonesian soldiers, the government threat to send the army in once more, and the prevailing belief in the rest of Sumatra that the people of Aceh are keen to spread their conservative Islamic ways across the whole country.
Undeterred by the province’s reputation, some intrepid travellers to the region are unearthing wildlife-rich jungle, misty mountain peaks and endless swathes of empty beach, not to mention the rainbow of pristine coral beneath the sea. Tangible remains of the 2004 tsunami can still be seen.
History
In the days of sailing ships, Aceh competed with Melaka on the Malay Peninsula for control of the important spice-trade route, the influx of traders and immigrants, and the province’s strategic position contributing to Aceh’s wealth and importance. Aceh was also Islam’s entry to the archipelago, while the capital, Banda Aceh, was a centre of Islamic learning and a gateway for Mecca-bound pilgrims.
Though Aceh’s power began to decline towards the end of the 17th century, the province remained independent of the Dutch until war was declared in 1871. It was 35 years before the fighting stopped and the last of the sultans, Tuanku Muhamat Dawot, surrendered.
In 1951 the Indonesian government incorporated Aceh’s territory into the province of North Sumatra. The prominent Islamic Party was angered at being lumped together with the Christian Bataks, and proclaimed Aceh an independent Islamic Republic in September 1953. Prolonged conflict ensued, and in 1959 the government was forced to give Aceh ‘special district’ status, granting a high degree of autonomy in religious, cultural and educational matters.
The formation of Gerakan Aceh Merdeka (GAM; Free Aceh Movement) in December 1976 and subsequent struggle with the Indonesian military led to nearly 30 years of deaths, torture, and disappearances occurring on an almost daily basis, perpetuated by both sides against the civilian population, with thousands displaced.
At the turn of the millennium, there was a brief ceasefire and Aceh was granted the right to implement sharia law, followed by an escalation of conflict, the imposition of martial law and a full-scale military assault on the separatists, which was brought to an abrupt end by the 2004 tsunami. The province remains largely peaceful, in spite of occasional bouts of unrest, courtesy of a GAM rebel splinter group that remains disaffected with former colleagues who now run the province.
Banda Aceh
%0651 / Pop 223,000
Indonesian cities are rarely coupled with pleasant descriptions, but Banda Aceh breaks the mould. The laid-back provincial capital is a pleasant enough spot to spend a couple of days and pedestrians will notice with delight that the city has actual pavements.
Given that Banda Aceh bore the brunt of the 2004 tsunami, with 61,000 killed here, and that much of the city had to be rebuilt, it’s little wonder that it looks well maintained and affluent. The aid workers have long gone, and it remains to be seen how much of an impact direct flights between Medan and Pulau Weh will have on tourism, now that visitors no longer have to pass through the city to reach the island.
Banda Aceh is a fiercely religious city and the ornate mosques are at the centre of daily life. Respectfully dressed visitors shouldn’t face any hassles and most travellers find the Acehnese to be friendly and extremely hospitable.
Banda Aceh
1Top Sights
4Sleeping
1Sights & Activities
Mesjid Raya BaiturrahmanMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission by donation; h7-11am & 1.30-4pm)
With its brilliant-white walls, ebony-black domes and towering minaret, the 19th-century Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman is a dazzling sight. The best time to visit the mosque is during Friday afternoon prayers, when the entire building and yard are filled with people. A headscarf is required for women.
The first section of the mosque was built by the Dutch in 1879 as a conciliatory gesture towards the Acehnese after the original one burnt down. Two more domes – one on either side of the first – were added by the Dutch in 1936 and another two by the Indonesian government in 1957. The mosque survived intact after the 2004 earthquake and tsunami, a sign interpreted by many residents as direct intervention by the Divine. During this time the mosque served as an unofficial crisis centre for survivors, and bodies awaiting identification were laid on the public square in front of the mosque.
Museum Negeri Banda AcehMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0651-23144; Jl Alauddin Mahmudsyah 12; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)
The Museum Negeri Banda Aceh has displays of Acehnese weaponry, household furnishings, ceremonial costumes, everyday clothing, gold jewellery, calligraphy and some magnificently carved recong (Acehnese daggers) and swords. It also has a display of a baby two-headed buffalo. At research time, the museum was closed for renovation.
Rumah AcehMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Alauddin Mahmudsyah 12; admission 5000Rp; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)
In the same compound as the Museum Negeri Banda Aceh is the Rumah Aceh, a fine example of traditional Acehnese architecture, built without nails and held together with cord and pegs. Inside is a typical traditional kitchen and living area with hanging crib. Other displays include wedding paraphernalia and a small weaponry collection. Out front is a huge cast-iron bell, the Cakra Donya, said to have been a gift from a Chinese emperor in the 15th century.
GunonganHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Teuku Umar; h8am-6pm)
All that remains of Aceh’s powerful sultanates today is on view at Gunongan. Built by Sultan Iskandar Muda (1607–36) as a gift for his Malay princess wife, it was intended as a private playground and bathing place. The building consists of a series of frosty peaks with narrow stairways and a walkway leading to ridges, which represent the hills of the princess’ native land. Ask around for someone to unlock the gate for you.
Directly across from the Gunongan is a low vaulted gate, in the traditional Pintu Aceh style, which provided access to the sultan’s palace – supposedly for the use of royalty only.
KherkhofCEMETERY
(Dutch Cemetery; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Teuku Umar; h8am-6pm)
The Kherkhof is the last resting place of more than 2000 Dutch and Indonesian soldiers who died fighting the Acehnese. The entrance is around 50m west of the Tsunami Museum. Tablets set into the walls by the entrance gate are inscribed with the names of the dead soldiers and the plain white crosses in the eastern part of the cemetery have replaced the gravestones destroyed by the tsunami.
REMEMBERING THE TSUNAMI
On December 26, 2004, an immense tsunami swept inland in Aceh, killing 170,000 people and altering the physical and emotional landscape of the province forever. In spite of the extensive rebuilding that has removed most signs of physical damage, stark reminders of the devastation remain in the form of many memorials that both honour those killed and allow visitors to comprehend the full horror of what transpired.
For many residents of the province the tsunami is a sensitive subject as many lost loved ones. However, if interest is expressed in a delicate manner, no offence is taken.
oTsunami MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Iskandar Muda; h9am-4.15pm Sat-Thu, noon-2pm Fri )F
A visit to this hard-hitting museum commences with a walk through a dark, dripping tunnel that symbolises the tsunami waves, with plaintive, terrified voices and the sound of rushing water all around you. This is followed by a powerful set of images of the devastation projected from tombstone-like receptacles, and a circular chamber engraved with the names of the lost. Upstairs a very graphic short film is aired, along with photographs of rebuilding, loss, hopefulness, displacement and reunited families.
Other displays explain how earthquakes and tsunamis are created and how Aceh’s landscapes were altered by this one (look out for ‘before’ and ‘after’ scale models of the city).
Mass GravesCEMETERY, MEMORIAL
There are four mass graves around Banda Aceh where the dead in the province were buried, post-tsunami. The largest site is Lambaro, located on the road to the airport, where 46,000 unidentified bodies were buried. Other grave sites include Meuraxa, Lhok Nga and Darusalam, where another 54,000 bodies were interred. Families who wish to mourn their unlocated loved ones choose one of the mass graves based on geographic proximity; they have no other evidence of where to offer their prayers.
Lampulo BoatLANDMARK
The most famous of the tsunami sights is the boat in the house in Lampulo, and the 2500-tonne power-generator vessel that was carried 4km inland by a wave.
4Sleeping
There is very little in the way of budget accommodation here; the cheapies on Jl Khairil Anwar don’t seem to accept foreign guests. Shoestringers may find themselves racing straight through Banda Aceh and out to the mellower prices of Pulau Weh.
oHotel SeiHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0651-21866; www.seihotelaceh.com; Jl Tanoh Abe 71, Kampung Mulia; d 550,000Rp; aW)
This new lemon-yellow hotel down a quiet side street is one of Banda Aceh’s swankiest options. Expect compact rooms with reliable wi-fi, the arctic chill of the air-con, a pleasant respite from the outdoors, as well as friendly but erratic service and a seemingly deserted but actually decent restaurant.
Linda’s HomestayHOMESTAY$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0823 6436 4130, 0811 680 305; http://lindas-homestay.blogspot.com; Jl Mata Lorong Rahmat 3, Lambneu Barat; r 350,000-400,000Rp; aW)
Staying in the home of hospitable Linda, 4km out of town, is a good way of experiencing local life and many travellers rave about her. Linda cooks up a storm of Acehnese food and her sons are on hand to give you a tour of the city. However, some travellers report misunderstandings about prices and ensuing bad feelings.
Hotel Rumoh PMIHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0651-33292; Jl Nyak Adam Kamil II 1, Kampong Ateuk Mungjing; r 300,000Rp; aW)
This hotel in a residential area southwest of the centre is a 15-minute walk to the Tsunami Museum. Rooms could use some sprucing up, but on the whole they are clean and pleasantly chilly, the staff are friendly and helpful, and pickup from the airport or ferry can be arranged in advance. A stopover rather than a place to linger.
Hotel MedanHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0651-21501; www.hotel-medan.com; Jl Ahmad Yani 17; r incl breakfast 330,000-550,000Rp; aiW)
We’re in two minds about this business-class hotel. On the one hand, the central location is very handy and the tiled rooms are clean and comfortable. On the other, the furniture is aged, the wi-fi unpredictable, breakfast choices are limited, rooms facing the road noisy and it’s overpriced for what it is.
5Eating
Pasar Malam RekMARKET$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Ahmad Yani & Jl Khairil Anwar; dishes from 10,000Rp; h5-10pm)
The square at the junction of Jl Ahmad Yani and Jl Khairil Anwar is the setting for the Pasar Malam Rek, Banda Aceh’s lively night food market featuring noodle and sate stalls.
Rumah Makan Spesifik AcehINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl T Hasan Dek; mains from 30,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
An excellent introduction to Acehnese cuisine, with such delights as asam keeng (hot and sour soup), mie aceh (spicy noodle dish), udang goreng kunyit (turmeric shrimp), and curried fish.
oLa PiazzaITALIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Iskandar Muda 308 & 309; mains from 40,000Rp; h11am-11pm; Wv)
Authentic Italian food is on the menu at this outpost belonging to Freddie on Pulau Weh. You’re not limited to pasta and pizza, though; the seafood dishes are also one of their strong points. Romance your sweetie by candlelight at this garden restaurant on the 3rd floor. Discreetly open all day during Ramadan.
Restauran BundaINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pante Pirak 7-9; meals around 70,000Rp; h11am-10pm; a)
Think bright lights, a shiny canteen and uniformed waiters piling endless plates of sublime masakan minang (basically the same as Padang food) dishes onto your table and you get this popular ‘posh warung’ style restaurant. It also does a takeaway service – ideal if you have a long bus ride ahead.
Country SteakhouseSTEAK$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0651-24213; off Jl Sri Ratu Safiatuddin 45B; mains 25,000-130,000Rp; hnoon-10pm; aW)
Well hidden down an alley, this wood-panelled restaurant used to feed the international aid workers. It’s now added a few Indonesian standards to the menu that features New Zealand steaks, snapper and hand-cut chips; specify how you want your steak or be prepared for the default (‘well done’). Also has beer and Australian red wine.
6Drinking
Because of sharia law, alcohol is not available as openly here as elsewhere in Indonesia, but a few of the more expensive restaurants and hotels discreetly serve beer.
Warung Kopi SolongCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Teuku Iskandar 13-14; h9am-7pm; W)
Aceh’s most famous coffee house has been doing business since 1974. It’s an excellent place to try kopi sanger (coffee with condensed milk) – with the coffee strained through a sock! You can buy 250g and 500g bags of finely ground, locally grown Ulee Kareng robusta coffee to take away. Noodle dishes and other snacks available. Take a taxi.
8Information
There are lots of ATMs around town, mainly on Jl Panglima Polem and Jl Sri Ratu Safiatuddin.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl H Bendahara 33; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
A short walk from the centre.
Regional Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(Dinas Parawisata; GOOGLE MAP ; %0651-852020; www.bandaacehtourism.com; Jl Chik Kuta Karang 3)
The staff are exceptionally friendly and sometimes have free copies of an excellent guidebook to the province. On the 1st floor of a government building.
Rumah Sakit Dr Zainoel AbidinHOSPITAL
(%0651-34565; Jl Daud Beureuch 108)
One of the best hospitals in town. Located just east of the centre.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Banda Aceh’s Sultan Iskandar Muda International Airport is 16km southeast of the centre.
Boat
Boats serving Pulau Weh depart from the port at Uleh-leh, 5km northwest of Banda Aceh’s city centre.
Bus
Terminal Bus Bathoh ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Mohammed Hasan) is located 2km south of the city centre. Large buses to Medan aside, most accommodation can arrange for the relevant minibus to pick you up.
TRANSPORT FROM BANDA ACEH
AIR
| Destination | Airline | Frequency |
| Jakarta | Garuda | 2 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | AirAsia | daily |
| Kutacane | Susi Air | 2 weekly |
| Medan | Garuda, Lion Air | 3 daily |
| Penang | Firefly, Malaysia Airlines | 3 weekly |
BUS
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Ketambe/Kutacane | 220,000 | 15-18 | daily |
| Medan | 210,000 | 12 | hourly until 10pm |
| Singkil | 230,000 | 15 | daily |
8Getting Around
Taxis from the airport to the city centre charge around 100,000Rp. A taxi from the airport to the Uleh-leh port will cost around 130,000Rp.
Labi labi are the main form of transport around town and cost 2500Rp. The labi labi terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro) is that special breed of Indonesian mayhem. For Uleh-leh (10,000Rp, 35 minutes), take the blue labi labi signed ‘Uleh-leh.’ You can also reach Lhok Nga and Lampu’uk (16,000Rp).
From the bus terminal, a becak into town will cost around 25,000Rp. A becak around town should cost between 10,000Rp and 20,000Rp, depending on your destination. A becak to Uleh-leh from the city centre is 30,000Rp and a taxi 60,000Rp.
Pulau Weh
%0652 / Pop 25,000
A tiny tropical rock off the tip of Sumatra, Pulau Weh is a small slice of beach and jungle that rewards travellers who’ve journeyed up through the turbulent greater mainland below. After you’ve hiked around the mainland’s jungles, volcanoes and lakes, it’s time to jump into the languid waters of the Indian Ocean. Snorkellers and divers bubble through the great walls of swaying sea fans, deep canyons and rock pinnacles, ogling the dazzling kaleidoscope of marine life, including manta rays and whale sharks. Both figuratively and geographically, Pulau Weh is the cherry on top for many visitors to Sumatra.
Pulau Weh is shaped roughly like a horseshoe. On the northeastern leg is the port town of Sabang, where most of Weh’s population lives. The primary tourist beaches are Gapang and Iboih, which are about 20km heading towards the northwestern leg. In the bendy-palms and sandy-toes stakes, Iboih probably just outclasses Gapang, but for the best beaches of all, pack a towel and head to Pantai Sumur Tiga near Sabang and Long Beach, a little way north of Iboih.
2Activities
Most travellers come to Weh for the diving and snorkelling, which is considered some of the best in the Indian Ocean. On an average day, you’re likely to spot morays, lionfish and stingrays. During plankton blooms, whale sharks come to graze. Unlike at other dive sites, the coral fields take a back seat to the sea life and landscapes. There are close to 20 dive sites around the island, most in and around Iboih and Gapang, where dive operators are based.
Snorkelling gear can be hired almost anywhere for around 30,000Rp per day.
8Getting There & Away
Air
The small, new Maimun Saleh Airport , 2km south of Sabang, is connected to Medan by Garuda Indonesia on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, departing Medan at 8.50am and returning from Sabang at 10.40am.
Boat
Slow car ferries and express passenger ferries ply the route between Uleh-leh, 5km northwest of Banda Aceh on the mainland, and Balohan port, around 8km south of Sabang on Pulau Weh. You should get to the port at least 45 minutes before departure to get a ticket. Ferry service is weather pending.
Car ferries (economy/air-con 25,000/50,000, two hours) leave Pulau Weh daily at 8am, returning from Uleh Leh on the mainland at 11am. On Monday, Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, there’s an additional service from Pulau Weh at 1.30pm, returning from Uleh Leh at 4pm.
The Express Ferry (%0651-43791, 0652-332 4800; business/executive/VIP 125,000/150,000/165,000Rp) departs Banda Aceh for Pulau Weh at 9.30am and 4pm daily (45 minutes to one hour). Services from Pulau Weh to Banda Aceh depart at 8am and 2.30pm daily.
8Getting Around
From the Balohan port, there are regular minibuses to Sabang (25,000Rp, 15 minutes), and Gapang and Iboih (60,000Rp, 40 minutes). You can catch a minibus from Jl Perdagangan in Sabang to Gapang and Iboih (40,000Rp). Becaks and taxis charge around 80,000Rp from the port to Gapang and Iboih and around 70,000Rp from Sumur Tiga near Sabang to Gapang and Iboih.
A taxi from Sumur Tiga to the airport is 30,000Rp; from Gapang/Iboih it’s around 70,000Rp to 80,000Rp.
Many lodgings rent out motorbikes for around 100,000Rp per day.
Sabang
The island’s main township is a mix of traditional fishing village and old colonial-era villas. During Dutch rule, Sabang was a major coal and water depot for steamships. The town enjoyed a brief revival in the 1970s as a duty-free port, but is now a sleepy town whose inhabitants either fish or make rattan furniture.
If staying on the Sabang side of the island, visitors make a beeline for the beautiful Sumur Tiga beach, 5km east of town.
4Sleeping & Eating
oFreddiesLODGE$$
(%0813 602 5501; www.santai-sabang.com; Pantai Sumur Tiga; r 300,000Rp; aW)
This delightful cluster of breezy rooms sit above a pretty stretch of white-sand beach with a coral reef. It’s perfect for those content with snorkelling off the strategically placed pontoon and swinging in a hammock. Freddie, the South African owner, is responsible both for the delicious, varied buffet dinners (65,000Rp) and for the genuine feeling of camaraderie among the guests.
oCasa NemoBUNGALOW$$
(%0812 1735 4141; www.casanemo.com; Pantai Sumur Tiga; cottage 275,000-300,000Rp; aW)
Sitting on the balcony of your luxurious thatched beach bungalow (which in some cases comes complete with a stone bath) and looking down on a day-glow blue ocean, you’ll probably find it impossible to wipe the smile off your face.
8Information
The BRI bank (Jl Perdagangan) has an ATM, as do a couple of other banks.
ISLAND TOUR ON TWO WHEELS
Pulau Weh is a delight to explore either by motorbike or by bicycle (if you happen to have brought one along) due to its relatively compact size, light traffic and picturesque scenery.
If you start from Ipoih and follow the road all the way north through the forest reserve, you’ll reach Kilometer 0, a brash orange marker indicating the westernmost tip of Indonesia. The road itself is hilly, winding and beautiful, with an excellent chance of spotting monkeys and snakes. Head back south until you almost reach Gapang; the westbound turnoff leads to Lhong Anden, a beach ideal for sunset watching. Head back and go southeast past Gapang; just before you reach the village of Pria Laot, a rough road leads south to a waterfall that you can bathe in, and possibly spot flying foxes and monkeys. East past Pria Laot, you hit a T-junction; take the southbound branch and you pass between Gunung Kulan, the island’s highest volcano, on your right, and Gunung Merapi, a semiactive volcano which holds boiling water in its caldera and occasionally puffs smoke, on your left.
Head east along the coast and you pass some sulphurous hot springs near Kaunekai village. Carry on to Balohan port and take the less-peopled road north across the island, toward Sabang, passing Danau Anak Laut, a serene freshwater lake that supplies the island with its drinking water. Near Sabang, it’s worth seeking out the old Merbabu cemetery, where there are Dutch, French, Javanese, Acehnese and Japanese laid to rest.
If you don’t want to motorbike around the island alone, call English-speaking guide Andy (%0852 7644 9599; per person 150,000Rp) for a day-long tour.
Gapang
Occupying a sandy cove, with a great reef for snorkelling just offshore, Gapang is an appealing stretch of beach lined with shack restaurants and simple guesthouses.
2Activities
Lumba Lumba Diving CentreDIVING
(%0811 682 787; www.lumbalumba.com; discover dive/Open Water Diver course €45/300)
The established and professional Dutch-run Lumba Lumba Diving Centre has been introducing divers to Pulau Weh’s underwater world for two decades now and is the only PADI-certified diving centre on the island. The owners Ton and Marjan Egbers maintain a helpful website with detailed descriptions of dives and need-to-know information. Highly recommended.
Monster DiversDIVING
(%0812 6960 6857; www.monsterdivers.com; discover dive/day trip incl dives €40/60)
A popular, professional new diving outfit consisting of three friendly Barcelonians and one local PADI diving instructor.
4Sleeping & Eating
Gapang is much less lively than nearby Iboih and the accommodation consists largely of basic beach huts (100,000Rp) with only one notable exception. Beachside cafes serving very standard Western and Indonesian food absorb the evening breezes and post-dive appetites.
Lumba LumbaRESORT$$
(%0811 682 787; www.lumbalumba.com; r without bathroom €13.50, with bathroom €20-32; iW)
Dutch-owned Lumba Lumba offers the best-quality accommodation in Gapang. Wood-decked cottages have tiled rooms, fans and Western toilets, while simpler rooms have shared bathrooms. Accommodation is mostly for divers, but they will happily rent out any spare rooms. A new restaurant is on the way.
Mama DonutINDONESIAN$
Mama Donut has been a local institution for a couple of decades, walking the sand selling delicious vegetable samosas, doughnuts and fried bananas to divers. On her days off, Daughter Donut takes over.
Iboih
More spread out than Gapang, Iboih (ee-boh) follows a rocky headland with a string of simple bungalows along a forested footpath. A small path leads through a stone gateway past the village well, and up and over a small hill to the bungalow strip. The village itself is conservative and traditional, so no swimwear beyond the bungalow strip.
1Sights & Activities
Rubiah Tirta DiversDIVING
(%0652-332 4555; www.rubiahdivers.com; discover dive/Open Water Diver course €40/270)
Local-run Rubiah Tirta Divers is the oldest dive operation on the island and gets consistently good feedback from travellers.
Sea GardenDIVING
Opposite Iboih, 100m offshore, is Pulau Rubiah, a densely forested island surrounded by spectacular coral reefs known as the Sea Garden. It is a favourite snorkelling and diving spot. The coral has been destroyed in places but there is still plenty to see, including turtles, manta ray, lionfish, tigerfish and occasional sharks.
If you are a strong swimmer it is possible to make your own way there. Beware of strong currents, especially at the southern tip of the island.
4Sleeping & Eating
Iboih, with its simple palm-thatch bungalows, many built on stilts and overlooking crystal-clear water, is Pulau Weh’s backpacker hang out par excellence. There’s a handful of places to stay with little differentiating them. If you stay for several days you can normally negotiate a discount on the daily rates.
Just off the main road are a few shops selling sundries, Indonesian lunches and coffee in front of a small beach.
Yulia’sHUT$
(%0821 6856 4383; r with/without bathroom 280,000/120,000Rp; W)
A 500m trudge past the rest of the guesthouses rewards you with cheerful green huts, some excellent front-door snorkelling and a pink restaurant serving a mix of Indonesian and Western dishes.
OlalaHUT$
(%0852 6060 7311; r 70,000-150,000Rp; W)
Offering cheap and cheerful huts on stilts, Olala caters both to shoestringers (basic digs with shared bathrooms) and splurgers who want their own bathroom and fan. Its restaurant (open to all) is a popular traveller hang out and receives an equal amount of praise.
Oong’s BungalowsHUT$
(%0813 6070 0150; r 80,000-160,000Rp)
Good value rooms although the tin roof heats things up. Cheaper options share bathrooms. The on-site restaurant, Norma’s, serves seafood and beer amid diving chat.
Iboih InnBUNGALOW$$
(%0812 6904 8397; www.iboihinn.com; r incl breakfast 250,000-550,000Rp; aW)
The top-dog huts at Iboih’s only upmarket option come with hot-water showers, air-con and fab sea views, though they are somewhat regimental and grey. The further the huts are from the seafront, the lower the price and the quality, until you get to simple wooden shacks with thin partitioning walls that make you feel as if you’re in bed with your neighbours.
Dee Dee’s KitchenINTERNATIONAL$
(mains 25,000-40,000Rp; h8am-9pm; Wv)
On the same strip of beach as Rubiah Divers, Dee Dee cooks up an eclectic selection of dishes, from the excellent homemade chapati with guacamole and tofu burgers with french fries to chicken cooked in coconut milk. Easily Iboih’s most imaginative dining venue.
Long Beach
4Sleeping & Eating
Stone ParkBUNGALOW$
(%0852 6258 1111, 0652-3324688; Long Beach; r 200,000Rp; aW)
Overlooking a private lagoon with excellent snorkelling, these two rustic cabins are run by a friendly British-Indonesian couple, Katie and Ali. Cabins are spacious, fan-cooled and equipped with mosquito nets; they also have attached kitchens if you don’t feel like dining out. Located at the southern end of Long Beach.
oBixio CafeITALIAN$$
(meals around 120,000Rp; hnoon-10pm Wed-Mon)
Who would have thought Sumatra’s best Italian food is hiding in a remote corner of Pulau Weh! Sit by the lapping waves and dig into Luca and Eva’s wonderful authentic and freshly made gnocchi and pasta with fresh and imaginative sauces – but leave room for the divine tiramisu. There are three appealing bungalows (150,000Rp) for rent if you wish to linger longer.
Aceh’s West Coast
Rounding the northwestern tip of Sumatra’s finger of land is a string of little villages and endless beaches backed by densely forested hills. Most of the houses along the coast are identical in design, having been rebuilt after the tsunami. For the moment, the attractive west coast attracts the more intrepid travellers heading overland between Singkil and Banda Aceh, as well as surfers and kitesurfers in search of wind and waves.
Lhok Nga & Lampu’uk
%0656
Comprehensively rebuilt after the 2004 tsunami, the coastal weekend spots in Lampu’uk are beginning to attract more surfers and kitesurfers as the word spreads. Surfing season is from October to April, while the rest of the year brings favourable kiting winds. Lhok Nga has decent waves too, and it’s becoming particularly popular with kitesurfers.
Take labi labi number 04 (30,000Rp, 20 minutes) from the angkot terminal in Banda Aceh for both Lhok Nga and Lampu’uk. A becak costs 80,000Rp to 100,000Rp.
Joel’s BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0813 7528 7765; Lampu’uk; r 150,000-300,000Rp)
Joel’s Bungalows is the area’s legendary surfer hangout. Its huts have been built into and around the cliff face and overlook a drop-dead-gorgeous beach (though the waves there are not suitable for surfing and can be dangerous for swimming). Rooms come in an array of sizes and styles and its on-site restaurant is known far and wide as the place to come for a wood-fire pizza.
Joel’s Bungalows 2 (%0813 7528 7765; r 150,000-300,000Rp), further south along the main beach at Lampu’uk, is ideal for kitesurfers due to its location.
Aceh KitecampSURF CAMP$$
(%0812 6942 7770; www.aceh-kitecamp.com; Lhok Nga; s 150,000Rp, d 200,000-500,000Rp; aW)
Aceh Kitecamp in Lhok Nga is the best place to learn to kitesurf in Sumatra. This clutch of comfortable bungalows comes with its own kiting school (one hour €60, full course €310). In the downtime, you can have a go at paddle boarding (150,000Rp for half a day).
Eddie’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0813 7588 3445, 0811 688 682; ediguenzalo@yahoo.com; Lhok Nga; r 70,000-120,000; a)
Run by a local surfer, Eddie’s gets consistently good feedback from the surfing crowd both for its laid-back vibe and its comfy rooms (the cheaper ones share facilities).
Pulau Simeulue
%0650 / Pop 85,000
The isolated island of Simeulue, about 150km west of Tapaktuan, is a rocky volcanic outcrop blanketed in rainforest and fringed with clove and coconut plantations. An increasing number of surfers make it out here (although wave quality is generally not considered to be as high as on some other offshore Sumatran islands), but nonsurfing travellers are a rare breed indeed. This is a pity because the island holds decent potential for genuine, off-the-beaten-track adventure, and is relatively easy to get around: the ring road around the island is mostly accessible by local minibuses.
You’ll find simple losmen (50,000Rp to 165,000Rp) in Sinabang and Sibigo, or if you have a tent, you can camp on the beach. A half-dozen or so surf camps take advantage of the as yet uncrowded waves. Surf Camp Sumatra (www.surfcampsumatra.com; bungalow US$75-85; Ws) is a small, new camp that lodges up to eight guests, in a quiet bay on the west coast of Simeulue. You sleep in a simple, fan-cooled bungalow right in front of the island’s most consistent break, Dylan’s Right. Meals and airport transfers are included.
Bring lots of cash as the island’s ATMs are not to be depended on.
Susi Air (%061-785 2169; www.susiair.com) has two flights daily from Medan. A ferry from Simelue’s port town of Sinabang to Singkil (75,000Rp to 150,000Rp, 12 hours) runs on Wednesday and Saturday at 5pm.
Singkil
%0658 / Pop 17,000
Singkil is a remote, sleepy port town with welcoming locals at the mouth of Sungai Alas. It’s the departure point for island adventures in the Banyaks, Pulau Nias and Pulau Simelue, but it’s worth lingering here for a day or two to explore the swampy surroundings – which are home to crocodiles, wild orangutans and more.
Unusually for Indonesia, Singkil is very spread out and has no real centre.
2Activities
Swamp TourBOAT TOUR
(per person 700,000Rp)
A rewarding day trip from Singkil involves taking a single-engine canoe up the Gedang River, past two friendly waterfront villages and deeper into the great morass in search of wild orangutans and monkeys. Start out as early as possible to maximise your chances of seeing riverside wildlife. Book via Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel.
The riverside villages are worth a visit, to meet the friendly locals and their inquisitive kids. Note the contrast between the enormous satellite TV dishes and the bathroom shacks right on the river. Beyond the villages, the river gives way to narrow waterways, lined with tall swamp plants and with the odd orangutan nest near the water.
4Sleeping & Eating
oSapo Belen LodgeLODGE$
(%0813 6196 0997; d 150,000Rp)
Sapo Belen Lodge is the nicest crash pad for travellers in town, just off the main street. It consists of characterful, antique-filled rooms with mosquito nets and local-style bathrooms; the largest room has a four-poster bed and a Western toilet. The friendly proprietor answers text messages with the help from English-speaking guides, including Mr Darmawan, his nephew.
Hotel Dina AmaliaGUESTHOUSE$
(%0821 6164 2013; elviandi_rs@yahoo.com; Jl Bahari; r 150,000-270,000Rp; a)
The plusher rooms at this basic hotel on the main street have air-con. The manager speaks a little English. It’s not far from Baroka warung.
BarokaINDONESIAN$
(mains 20,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
Cheap as chips and friendly to boot, this simple warung on the main street lets you load up on gargantuan portions of rice with chicken and fish sambal and more.
8Information
There’s a single BRI Bank with an ATM that only accepts Mastercard (and not all foreign cards), so bring plenty of cash.
Banyak Island TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
(%0813 7721 9667, 0813 6017 0808; dmawan_skl76@yahoo.com)
Your first point of contact in Singkil should be Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel, who can organise any and all forms of onward transport, including speed boats to the Banyaks, minibuses and private cars to almost anywhere, and local tours. In fact, he deserves the Stranded Traveller Guardian Angel Award for helping more than a few travellers in distress!
Sumatra EcotourismTOURIST INFORMATION
A very useful website with regards to Singkil, the Banyaks and other destinations in North Sumatra and Aceh. Rega maintains the Sumatra Ecotourism website and works in partnership with Mr Darmawan.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Susi Air (www.susiair.com) has twice-weekly flights on 12-seater planes between Singkil and Medan. Schedules are very changeable, so check in advance.
Boat
From the ferry port off the main street, overnight ferries depart on Thursday and Sunday for Gunung Sitoli (75,000Rp, six hours) on Pulau Nias at 11pm. Ferries also head to Sinabang on Pulau Simeulue (75,000Rp to 150,000Rp, 12 hours) on the same days at 5pm. Get to the port an hour before departure to secure a seat.
Local boats to Pulau Balai in the Banyaks depart from the jetty at the end of the main street.
Bus & Car
There are daily minibuses from Singkil to various destinations. You can also charter a car to any destination; this is particularly worthwhile if you’re heading for Tuk Tuk on Danau Toba (1,400,000Rp to 1,600,000, seven hours) since getting there by public transport requires three bus changes and takes at least 12 hours. Private cars to Medan cost around 800,000Rp.
BUSES FROM SINGKIL
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Medan | 120,000 | 9-10 | several daily |
| Banda Aceh | 230,000 | 15 | daily at 3pm |
| Ketambe | 180,000 | 10 | daily at 7pm |
| Sibolga | 120,000 | 7-8 | daily at 8am |
Banyak Islands
Pop 5000
If you’ve ever dreamt about having a tropical island entirely to yourself, complete with palm trees, powdery white beaches and crystal-clear waters, the Banyak Islands are a great place to fulfil your Robinson Crusoe fantasy. A cluster of 99 mostly uninhabited islands, the Banyak (Many) Islands are situated about 30km west of Singkil. Remote they might be, but they are now very much on the radar of surfers and growing in popularity with paradise-seeking travellers. As well as having arguably the finest beaches in Sumatra and a handful of quality surf spots, the Banyaks feature Sumatra’s best snorkelling with beautiful underwater forests of colourful coral (at least where there has been no dynamite fishing in the past). Maybe one day the dive operators will move in…
Only two of the islands are properly inhabited. The main town on the island of Pulau Balai is the main entry point to the islands. Low-key Haloban on Pulau Tuangku is the other main village.
1Sights
Pulau AsokISLAND
A crescent-shaped, uninhabited island with pristine beaches on either side as well as excellent snorkelling.
Pulau LamanISLAND
There’s fantastic snorkelling between Pulau Laman and Pulau Laureh, with some remarkable growths of vivid blue coral.
Pulau PalambakISLAND
Rather out of the way, this medium-sized island is covered in coconut trees, has a couple of jungle paths you can walk and a gorgeous stretch of beach. The snorkelling is not great, though, since the coral has been largely destroyed by dynamite fishing.
Pulau BalaiISLAND
One of two inhabited islands, connected to the mainland by frequent public boats. No attractions of its own, but useful as a transfer point.
Pulau BangkaruISLAND
The second-largest of the Banyaks is home to a turtle conservation project, so visits are strictly controlled and you’re only allowed on the island with a certified guide. The conservation project is up in the air with the demise of the previous management body, so check what’s happening with Rega from Sumatra Ecotourism.
There are pristine beaches, excellent surfing off the south coast and plenty of scope for jungle trekking. Three day, two night stays for two people cost 2,500,000Rp.
Pulau TuangkuISLAND
Covered in dense jungle, Pulau Tuangku is the largest of the Banyaks. Surfers head to Ujung Lolok, the headland at the south of the island, complete with several world-class breaks. In the northern part of the island is Haloban, a friendly village; Suka Makmur, a Christian village, is further south. With a guide it’s possible to summit Gunung Tiusa (313m) for an epic view of the surrounding islands (five hours return) and visit a cave full of stalagmites.
Pulau TailandaISLAND
The small island of Palau Tailana is renowned for reefs that are waves of colour.
Pulau SikandangISLAND
This large-ish island, with pristine beaches, takes a couple of hours to walk around. Snorkelling is possible but there’s a steep dropoff near the shore off the main beach.
Pulau Ragu-RaguISLAND
Offers some excellent snorkelling offshore. Dugongs are sometimes sighted in the mornings off the island’s north shore.
Pulau LambodongISLAND
A small island with a coconut collector’s shack hiding in the palm thicket. The white-sand beach is strewn with storm-brought flotsam and jetsam.
2Activities
KayakingKAYAKING
(%0852 7771 1108, 0821 6199 7974; kayak hire per day 150,000Rp)
Kayaking the calm, crystal-clear waters between dozens of idyllic islands is a great way to explore the Banyaks. With Rega and Anhar, you can arrange anything from beginner routes to multiday challenges for experienced kayakers for around 350,000Rp per person per day.
Snorkelling
The reefs in the Banyaks teem with colourful fish and corals and there are some fabulous snorkelling possibilities off almost any island. The visibility is excellent and most lodgings rent snorkelling masks.
Surfing
Many visitors to the Banyaks are surfers and there are some world-class surf spots here off Pulau Tuangku and Pulau Bangkaru as well as some more average waves. However, the waves can get rather crowded, particularly around Ujung Lolok, with up to 30 surfers regularly fighting over one peak.
It’s mostly surfers who flock to the island’s southernmost tip, Ujung Lolok. Many come on liveaboard surfing charter boats, while others do it the way surf trips are supposed to be done, by renting a local fishing boat and living on it.
4Sleeping & Eating
Sleeping options on the Banyaks consist of rather basic beach bungalows, limited to five islands and with all meals included in the cost. You can also live out your castaway fantasies by camping wild on one of the numerous uninhabited islands. Tents can be arranged through Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel; bring all your food and water with you – stock up in Singkil or Balai, or catch your own dinner!
Pulau Balai
Balai, which oozes a hot, lazy-day ambience, is a pretty village of quiet streets lined with wood-panelled houses inhabited by friendly locals.
Losmen PutriGUESTHOUSE$
(%0812 6313 5099; r 60,000-150,000Rp; a)
If you get stuck on Balai, arguably the best accommodation is found here. Go for the cheapest rooms with shared bathrooms or splurge on one with a bucket shower and air-con. To get here, take a left at Homestay Lae Kombih and walk for five minutes.
Homestay Lae KombihGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 9689 5929; Jl Iskandar Muda; r 50,000Rp)
This guesthouse overlooks the water and has hot and stuffy rooms. But for this price, what do you expect? The owner is very friendly and speaks English.
Pulau Palambak Basar
Lyla’s BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0811 604 794, 0813 6017 0808; r 200,000Rp)
Pulau Palambak Basar’s only accommodation is at these seven basic bungalows with shared bathrooms fronting a stunning beach. Australian owner David can arrange transfers and speedboat pickup from Singkil (1,600,000Rp), where he also has a guesthouse. A bit of jungle trekking in the island interior is possible, but snorkelling is not great due to damage caused by dynamite fishing.
Pulau Tailana
oPondok TailanaBUNGALOW$
(%0813 7721 9667, 0822 770 0791; www.tailana.webs.com; r 100,000Rp)
Pulau Tailana is the best place to be based in the Banyaks for nonsurfers, with island-hopping, incredible snorkelling and jungle trekking on offer and decent fish-filled reefs just offshore. Wonderfully friendly staff feed you the freshest fish, grilled over a wood fire (meals 100,000Rp per person per day) and lodging consists of seven simple beach huts with shared bathrooms.
Pulau Sikandang
Nina’s BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0852 7086 8591; www.banyak-island-bungalow.com; r 150,000-200,000Rp; a)
A good bet for island-hopping trips, the only lodgings on Sikandang Island consist of five spacious, thatched bungalows (with electricity!) with hammocks swinging on shady porches and helpful manager Rius taking good care of the guests. In front of the bungalows, the drop off is steep and pretty near the shoreline.
Pulau Tuangku
The main village of Haloban has one basic losmen (100,000Rp per person); what the locals lack in English-speaking skills they more than make up for with enthusiasm and friendliness.
The southern tip of the island attracts almost exclusively a surfing crowd.
Banyak Island LodgeLODGE$$$
(%+61 407 018 708; www.banyaksurfbungalows.com; 8-/11-night package AU$2200/2500)
The only land-based accommodation is the Banyak Island Lodge, situated in the so-called Bay of Plenty. Rates include internal flights, transfers and full board. There are five fan-cooled bungalows with twin beds and mozzie nets overlooking Gunters and Camel Back waves out front. The lounge serves local and Western dishes to the accompaniment of surf chat.
Floating Surf HouseSURF CAMP$$$
(www.floatingsurfhouse.com; 10 nights US$1600; aW)
Sitting in the calm waters of the Bay of Plenty, near Ujung Lolok and within easy reach of Dindos, Gunters and Lolok Point waves, this surf-camp-on-a-raft provides unique accommodation for those chasing the waves. Owned by local surfer Erwin, it has two basic three-bed rooms for solo guests, two doubles and a stilt house.
8Getting There & Around
There are two car ferries a week (Tuesday 10am and Friday 1pm) between the mainland port of Singkil and Balai (40,000Rp to 50,000Rp, 3½ to four hours), returning on Wednesday and Saturday at 2pm. Local boats depart Singkil (30,000Rp, four to five hours) daily between 8am and noon (depending on the tides), returning in the afternoon. During the worst of the rough seas in October and November, boats may not run for days.
By far the most convenient – but expensive – way to reach the islands is to charter a speedboat from Singkil (one way 1,500,000Rp, two hours); most lodgings offer this services and can arrange speedboat pickup from Balai.
Enquire in Balai about hiring a fishing boat (from 600,000Rp to 2,500,000Rp per day, depending on boat size, with all the rice and fish you can eat). Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel can also assist.
Gunung Leuser National Park
%0629
The Aceh section of Gunung Leuser National Park has slipped under the tourist radar for years, seeing only a trickle of visitors as the masses head to the more-hyped Bukit Lawang. Its jungle is basically the same minus the well-worn paths and tourists clambering about trying to spot semiwild orangutans. This is the place for the real jungle experience.
The Unesco–listed Gunung Leuser National Park is one of the world’s most important and biologically diverse conservation areas. It is often described as a complete ecosystem laboratory because of the range of forest and species types.
Within the park’s boundaries live some of the planet’s most endangered and exotic species: tigers, rhinoceros, elephants and orangutans. Although your chances of seeing these celebrity animals are remote, you have a reasonable chance of seeing orangutans, and you can be sure of encountering plenty of other primates. The most common is the white-breasted Thomas leaf monkey, which sports a brilliant, crested punk hairdo.
Habitats range from the swamp forests of the west coast to the dense lowland rainforests of the interior. Much of the area around Ketambe is virgin forest. Above 1500m, the permanent mist has created moss forests rich in epiphytes and orchids. Rare flora includes two members of the rafflesia family, Rafflesia acehensis and Rafflesia zippelnii, which are found along Sungai Alas.
More than 300 bird species have been recorded in the park, including the bizarre rhinoceros hornbill, the helmeted hornbill and woodpeckers.
The park faces a great number of challenges. Poachers have virtually wiped out the crocodile population and have severely reduced the number of tigers and rhinoceros. According to the Indonesian Forum for the Environment, over a fifth of the park has been adversely affected by illegal logging and road construction. A highly controversial road project called Ladia Galaska runs through the park, linking the east and west coasts of the province. Furthermore, during the civil conflict in Aceh, the jungle was a stronghold of GAM militants, and the national park saw fighting between GAM and Indonesian troops.
This park receives a lot of rain throughout the year, but rain showers tend to lessen in frequency and duration between December and March.
Kedah
Located 15km west of the scrappy town of Blangkejeren, the small village of Kedah has seen very few visitors since the conflict in Aceh, making it ripe for off-the-beaten-track travel. At the northern edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, Kedah is a magnificent starting point for treks into the jungle, which is home to orangutans, gibbons and other exotic wildlife, birds and plants.
Rainforest Lodge (%0812 699 2732, 0813 6229 1844; www.gunung-leuser-trek.net; r without bathroom 100,000Rp) has simple but pleasant bungalows in beautiful jungle surrounds, with plenty of opportunity for wildlife-spotting. The lack of electricity adds greatly to its charm. Firstly, let Mr Jally know in advance that you’re coming. The Rainforest Lodge is an hour’s walk from Kedah village and is literally in the middle of nowhere. Mr Jally can organise jungle treks for around 450,000Rp per day, including food and guide; these are serious adventures, from the three-day summit of Gunung Angkosan peak to a six-day expedition to an immense waterfall in the upper Alas valley. Shorter treks can also be arranged, including night treks. Park permit fees are collected intermittently and the cost is not included.
To get here catch a bus to Blangkejeren, from where you can take an ojek (50,000Rp, 20 minutes) to Kedah.
Ketambe
Ketambe, in the heart of the Alas Valley, is the main tourist centre of the national park. A handful of guesthouses spread along the road, hemmed in between the river and the jungle. It’s one of the most chilled-out places in North Sumatra and a few lazy days relaxing beside the river and partaking in some jungle hikes is likely to be a highlight of your Sumatran adventures.
2Activities
Rafting
Rafting (half/full day 450,000/800,000Rp) is a fun way to see the forest and keep cool at the same time. Most guesthouses can help organise this.
Trekking
For serious trekkers and jungle enthusiasts, the trekking (half/full-day/overnight 350,000/500,000/900,000Rp) around Ketambe offers a much more authentic experience than that near Bukit Lawang. Be prepared for extreme terrain, leeches and mosquitoes, and bring plenty of water. Guides can tailor a trip to specific requests. One of the more popular hikes is a three-day walk to some hot springs deep in the forest.
Gurah Recreation ForestTREKKING
The hutan wisata (recreation forest) at Gurah is a small, riverside picnic area, but guides lead half- and full-day hikes in the forest that surrounds this and the village. There’s a pretty good chance of seeing gibbons, Thomas leaf monkeys and orangutans here.
Bukit LawangTREKKING
Starting one-hour south of Kutacane, this six-day trek through tough terrain passes over 20 river crossings. You have a good chance of seeing orangutans and gibbons, and the trek passes through areas that elephants are known to inhabit. You can arrange to have your luggage delivered to Bukit Lawang separately.
Gunung KemiriTREKKING
At 3314m, this is the second-highest peak in Gunung Leuser National Park. The return trek takes five to six days, starting from the village of Gumpang, north of Ketambe. It takes in some of the park’s richest primate habitat, with orangutans, macaques, siamangs and gibbons.
Gunung LeuserTREKKING
The park’s highest peak is, of course, Gunung Leuser (3404m). Only the fit should attempt the 14-day return trek to the summit (eight days up, six days down). The walk starts from the village of Angusan, northwest of Blangkejeran.
KETAMBE RESEARCH STATION
The Ketambe Research Station has been conducting extensive studies of the flora and fauna of Gunung Leuser National Park for almost 30 years.
In the early 1970s, Ketambe was home to Sumatra’s orangutan rehabilitation program, but the project was relocated to Bukit Lawang to allow researchers to study the Ketambe region without the disruption of tourists. Nowadays the station’s primary concern is hard-core conservation, research and species cataloguing. Both the centre and the surrounding forest are off limits to almost everyone but the Indonesian and international researchers.
The 450-hectare protected area consists mainly of primary lowland tropical forest and is home to a large number of primates, as well as Sumatran tigers, rhinoceros, sun bears, hornbills and snakes. Despite its protected status, well over a third of the area has been lost to illegal logging since 1999.
4Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation is scattered along the only road through Ketambe; there are six guesthouses in total and each has its own small restaurant.
oThousand Hills Guest HouseBUNGALOW$
(%0812 6417 6752; www.thousandhillsketambe.com; r 80,000-120,000Rp, bungalow 150,000Rp)
The most upmarket of Ketambe’s options, and the first guesthouse you come across if approaching Ketambe from the south, consists of cute thatched bungalows hiding in the lush vegetation. Monkeys may peek in on you as you perform your ablutions in the outdoor bathrooms. The indomitable Joseph is full of advice and can organise jungle guides.
Wisma Cinta AlamGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 7086 4580; www.gunung-leuser-trek.net; r 100,000-150,000Rp)
The cheaper rooms sit in a row in a barrack-like construction, while the pricier ones are little bungalows in their own right; both now come with showers and real beds. Excellent, knowledgeable guides can be organised here. It’s also a good choice for those keen on rafting.
Friendship GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 9688 3624; www.ketambe.com; r 100,000Rp; W)
This spot has a beautiful riverside location with charming wooden bungalows equipped with Western toilets. The main hang-out area is decked out with photos of travellers engaging in jungle stuff. Staff are very friendly, and there are usually jungle guides lurking on the doorstep.
Wisma Sadar WisataGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 7615 5741; r 60,000-80,000Rp)
Here you’ll find a range of good-value bungalows; some overlook the river, as does the cafe. The owner’s daughter, Mira, is an excellent cook and can hook you up with a jungle guide.
8Information
Ketambe is one of the main access points to Gunung Leuser National Park. Directly across the river is Ketambe Research Station, a world-renowned conservation research station, which is off limits to tourists. Kutacane, 43km from Ketambe, is the closest town of any note and is the place to go for transport, ATMs and internet. Permits to the park (150,000Rp per day) can be arranged at guesthouses in Ketambe. Guides can be hired from any guesthouse in Ketambe; ask other travellers for recommendations.
8Getting There & Around
There are two weekly flights between Kutacane and Banda Aceh with Susi Air (www.susiair.com).
From Kutacane there are countless labi labi to Ketambe (10,000Rp, one hour), but they stop running around 6pm; arrange pickup with your guesthouse if arriving later. All north-bound buses from Kutacane pass through Ketambe. If you want to arrive in Takengon during daylight hours, catch a minibus to Blankejeren around 8am by standing ready on the main road; with later ones, you miss the 11am connection and will be stuck in Blangkejeren until 4pm or 5pm, when a minibus leaves for Banda Aceh via Takengon.
If travelling south to Lake Toba, catch a Sidikalang-bound bus from Kutacane, then another to Pangururan, and then one to Samosir Island. For Berastagi, there’s a direct minibus from Kutacane.
BUSES FROM KUTACANE
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Banda Aceh | 220,000 | 18 | daily |
| Berastagi | 60,000 | 6 | daily |
| Blangkejeren | 50,000 | 3 | 2-3 daily |
| Medan | 70,000 | 7 | several daily |
| Sidikalang | 40,000 | 3½ | daily |
| Singkil | 180,000 | 8 | daily |