West Sumatra
In Sumatra Barat (West Sumatra), fertile uplands ring jungle-clad volcanoes, waterfalls cascade into deep ravines and nature takes a breath in deep, still lakes. Rainforest still clings to the steepest slopes, while rice, tapioca, cinnamon and coffee bring in the wealth.
This is the heartland of the matriarchal Minangkabau, an intelligent, culturally rich and politically savvy people who have successfully exported their culture, language, cuisine and beliefs throughout Indonesia and whose soaring architecture dominates the cities and villages.
Bustling Padang on the Indian Ocean is a popular pit stop for surfers, trekkers and indigenous culture enthusiasts, bound for the Mentawai Islands. Nestling in the cool highlands north of Padang, scenic Bukittinggi is surrounded by picturesque villages where traditional artisans still ply their trades, with the gorgeous Danau Maninjau and the secluded Harau Valley providing plenty of scope for outdoor adventure. Nature lovers also head south to explore Sumatra’s largest national park in Kerinci, the last stronghold of the Sumatran tiger and with hidden lakes, volcanoes and jungle trekking galore.
History
Little is known about the area’s history before the arrival of Islam in the 14th century. However, the abundance of megalithic remains around the towns of Batu Sangkar and Payakumbuh, near Bukittinggi, suggest that the central highlands supported a sizeable community some 2000 years ago.
After the arrival of Islam, the region was split into small Muslim states ruled by sultans. It remained this way until the beginning of the 19th century, when war erupted between followers of the Islamic fundamentalist Padri movement and supporters of the local chiefs, adherents to the Minangkabau adat (traditional laws and regulations). The Padris were so named because their leaders were haji, pilgrims who had made their way to Mecca via the Acehnese port of Pedir. They returned from the haj determined to establish a true Islamic society and stamp out the pre-Islamic ways that dominated the ruling houses.
The Padris had won control of much of the highlands by 1821 when the Dutch decided to join the fray in support of the Minangkabau traditional leaders. The fighting dragged on until 1837, when the Dutch overcame the equator town of Bonjol, the stronghold of the Padri leader Imam Bonjol, whose name adorns street signs all over Indonesia. In today’s Minangkabau society, a curious fusion of traditional beliefs and Islam is practised.
THE MINANGKABAU
Legend has it that the Minangkabau are descended from the wandering Macedonian tyrant Alexander the Great. According to the story, the ancestors of the Minangkabau arrived in Sumatra under the leadership of King Maharjo Dirajo, the youngest son of Alexander.
Anthropologists, however, suggest that the Minangkabau arrived in West Sumatra from the Malay Peninsula some time between 1000 and 2000 BC, probably by following Sungai Batang Hari upstream from the Strait of Melaka to the highlands of the Bukit Barisan mountains.
Even if they don’t have Alexander’s bloodline, the Minangkabau reflect his wanderlust and love of battle, albeit in the milder form of buffalo fighting. Their success in buffalo fighting is believed to have bestowed the people with their tribal name, and the horns of the beast are the focus of their architecture and traditional costumes.
The legend of how the Minangkabau named themselves begins with an imminent attack by a Javanese king. Rather than pit two armies against each other, the Minangkabau proposed a fight between two bulls. When the time came, the West Sumatrans dispatched a tiny calf to fight the enormous Javanese bull, but the half-starved calf was outfitted with sharp metal spears to its horns. Believing the Javanese bull to be its mother, the calf rushed to suckle and ripped the bull’s belly to shreds. When the bull finally dropped dead, the people of West Sumatra shouted ‘Minangkabau, minangkabau!’, which literally means, ‘The buffalo wins, the buffalo wins!’
Linguistic sticklers, though, prefer the far more prosaic explanation that Minangkabau is a combination of two words: minanga, which means ‘a river,’ and kerbau, which means ‘buffalo.’ A third theory suggests that it comes from the archaic expression pinang kabhu, which means ‘original home’ – Minangkabau being the cradle of Malay civilisation.
Padang
%0751 / Pop 877,000
An urbo-Indonesian sprawl of traffic and smog, Padang sits astride one of the planet’s most powerful seismic zones, centrally located on the tectonic hotspot where the Indo-Australian plate plunges under the Eurasian plate. Significant tremors occur on an almost annual basis, the most recent being in 2012.
Padang is to West Sumatra what Medan is to the North – a handy transport hub with excellent connections to major regional attractions, including Mentawai islands, Bukittinggi, Danau Maninjau and the Kerinci Highlands. Due to the sheer volume of backpacker and surfer traffic passing through, it also has an above-average amount of good budget accommodation and an excellent dining scene, with regional food the most globally famous of Indonesian culinary offerings.
Padang
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
1Sights
Colonial QuarterNEIGHBOURHOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Although damaged in the 2009 earthquake, Padang’s colonial-era quarter around Jl Batang Arau is still worth a lazy stroll. Old Dutch and Chinese warehouses back onto a river brimming with fishing boats. The beach along Jl Samudera is the best place to watch the sunset.
Adityawarman MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro; admission 2500Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Adityawarman Museum, built in the Minangkabau tradition, has pleasant grounds and the exhibits are a thorough introduction to everyday Minangkabau life. A healthy imagination helps, since the exhibits are in Bahasa Indonesia. The entrance is on Jl Gereja.
TTours
Padang is the launching point for tours of the Mentawai Islands, which are famous for their hunter-gatherer culture, endemic flora and fauna, and world-class surfing. Local travel agencies can also arrange tours around the surrounding Minangkabau heartland of West Sumatra.
oRegina AdventuresTOUR, SURFING
(%0751-781 0835, 0812 6774 5464; www.reginaadventures.com; 10-day surf packages per person from US$450)
Reliable local operator Elvis offers trekking on the Mentawai Islands, trips to Danau Maninjau and Bukittinggi, and ascents of Gunung Merapi and Gunung Kerinci. Check the website for good-value surf trips to Mentawai and Krui further south.
Nando Sumatra ToursCULTURAL TOUR
(%0812 6672 8800, 0852 6335 7645; www.nandosumatratour.com; Jl Tanjung Indah I blok E; 10-day Mentawai treks from per person US$700)
A young, up-and-coming company with friendly owner Nando at the helm. Arranges 10-day Mentawai cultural immersion tours, as well as tours of North and West Sumatra and trekking around Danau Maninjau.
Sumatran SurfariisSURFING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-34878; www.sumatransurfariis.com; Komplek Pondok Indah B 12, Parak Gadang)
Long-established Mentawai surf-boat charter company with three boats to whisk you off on a 10- to 14-day wave hunt to the Mentawais. Nias, Aceh, Telo and the Banyaks are also options. A 10-day ‘surfari’ typically costs between US$2750 and US$3300.
zFestivals & Events
Pesta Budaya TabuikCULTURAL
A West Sumatran cultural calendar highlight is Pesta Budaya Tabuik (derived from the Islamic festival of Tabut), which is held in Pariaman, 36km north of Padang. It takes place at the beginning of the month of Muharam (based on the Islamic lunar calendar, usually January or February) to honour the martyrdom of Muhammad’s grandchildren, Hassan and Hussein, at the battle of Kerbala.
Central to the festival is the bouraq (a winged horse-like creature with the head of a woman), believed to have descended to earth to collect the souls of dead heroes and take them to heaven.
Dragon Boat FestivalSPORTS
Held in July or August, this festival involves boat racing competitions between international teams. Check details on Facebook.
4Sleeping
Brigitte’s HouseHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 7425 7162; http://brigittehouse.blogspot.com; Jl Kampung Sebalah 1/14; dm/s/d from 95,000/100,000/230,000Rp; aW)
Brigitte’s has a relaxed and homely ambience, with backpackers chilling in the common area or mingling on the porch. This residential neighbourhood is quiet and leafy, and Brigitte is a treasure trove of information on buses, ferries and Mentawai adventures (and can help you with bookings). A short walk away is the separate building with air-con rooms.
Yani’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 6380 1686; yuliuz.caesar@gmail.com; d 80,000Rp, r 120,000-175,000Rp, all incl breakfast; aW)
Run by friendly young owner Yuliuz, this central homestay provides bona fide backpacker digs in the form of an air-con dorm with lockers and rooms with colourful bedspreads. If you don’t want to share your bathroom, splurge on the standard double. Motorbikes are available for guest use (60,000Rp per day).
Golden HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-32616; Jl Nipah Berok 1B; r 200,000-375,000Rp; aW)
Spotless private rooms named after Sydney's classic surfing beaches. Grab a bed in the cheaper Bronte room, or splash out on the Bondi or Manly rooms with private bathrooms.
oNew House PadangGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-25982; www.newhouse.padanghostel.com; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 104; r incl breakfast 250,000-300,000Rp; aW)
Now run by the same folks at Brigitte’s House, this friendly and relaxed guesthouse is perfect for groups of friends and surfers. A compact Zen garden combines with colourful rooms (some with terrace), contemporary artwork and a vast common area. The owners are on hand to advise about onward travel to the islands or Bukittinggi.
HW HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-893500; www.hwhotelpadang.com; Jl Hayam Wuruk 16; r incl breakfast 480,000-750,000Rp; aWs)
Modern and fairly spacious rooms in a central, post-earthquake hotel. We particularly like the compact rooftop pool and the friendliness and helpfulness of the staff. There’s room for negotiation on the rates, especially on weekends.
Savali HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-27660; www.savalihotel.com; Jl Hayam Wuruk 31; r incl breakfast 545,000-860,000Rp; aWs)
The centrally located Savali is just a short stroll from the beach and good restaurants. The hotel’s 23 rooms are set around a Zen-style garden, English is spoken at reception and there’s definitely an open mind to negotiation on room rates. The compact swimming pool is welcome on sultry equatorial afternoons and there’s a good coffee shop next door.
Grand Zuri HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-894888; www.grandzuri.com/padang; Jl Thamrin; r 670,000-1,250,000Rp; aW)
A little out of the centre, this slick new business hotel features spacious, contemporary rooms with polished wooden floors, large bathrooms, sumptuous mattresses and a decent 24-hour restaurant. Other perks include a gym and spa and an entire floor catering to nonsmokers. A good treat to your battered body if you’ve just spent a week roughing it on the Mentawais.
5Eating & Drinking
Padang is the birth mother of the cuisine that migrated across Indonesia and you can pay homage to the native cooks with a visit to one of these famous franchises: Pagi Sore ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pondok 143; dishes 9000Rp; hlunch & dinner), Sari Raso ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Karya 3; dishes 10,000Rp; hlunch & dinner) and Simpang Raya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Bundo Kandung; dishes 8000Rp; hlunch & dinner).
Jl Batang Arau is full of cheap warungs that spring to life at night, while discerning foodies head for Jl Pondok and Jl HOS Cokroaminoto. Juice wagons loiter near the end of Jl Hayam Wuruk. For cheap sate, grilled seafood and a few cold Bintangs (Indonesian beer), head to the beachfront shacks lining Jl Sumadera at sunset.
Pondok Indah JayaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Niaga 138; meals around 40,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
This warung is an excellent intro to Padang cuisine, your feast of dishes including spicy tofu, beef rendang, ayam sambal and tempe. Cool the fire in your mouth with some sirsak (soursop), cucumber or mango juice.
Hoya BakeryBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 48; snacks/meals around 7000/20,000Rp; hbreakfast & lunch)
Padang’s go-to spot for freshly baked sweet and savoury goodies. Friendly shop assistants will guide you around the selection before steering you to a colourful table. There are also good burgers, sandwiches and pasta, and the juices and smoothies are soothing antidotes to Padang’s tropical buzz.
oPak Tri’sSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 91; meals from 50,000Rp; h5pm-late)
The fish and squid are flame-grilled to perfection with a sweet, spicy sambal sauce here. The fresh-every-afternoon marine selection includes shoals of different fish and squid, with a supporting cast of kangkung (water spinach) and aubergine dishes. Grab a spot at the shared tables and tuck in for a quintessential Padang experience, occasionally accompanied by the serenading of street minstrels.
Nelayan RestaurantSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Samudera; mains 35,000-60,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
Great seafood the Chinese way, cold beers and one of the best Padang sunset views at this three-storey establishment. Treat yourself to grilled prawns or pepper crab, but definitely ask the price before you dig in. We’re pretty partial to a chilled Bintang with the cumi asam manis (squid in a sweet and sour sauce).
Safari GardenSTEAK$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Samudera 16; mains 50,000-350,000Rp; hfrom 5pm; aW)
The menu at this bright, contemporary restaurant is the discerning carnivore’s dream, with tenderloin, T-bone and sirloin dominating the list. The nice cuts of Angus and even Wagyu beef are cooked to specification, the fruit juices are unadulterated, nonsugary delight, and non-meaty options include fish and chips and pasta. The service is young, friendly and prompt.
PADANG CUISINE
With nasi Padang (Padang cuisine), you sit down and the whole kit and caboodle gets laid out in front of you. You decide which ones look tasty and push the others aside, only paying for what you eat.
The drawback is that you never really know what you’re eating, since there’s no menu. If the dish contains liquid, it is usually a coconut-milk curry, a major component of Padang cuisine. The meaty dishes are most likely beef or buffalo, occasionally offal or (less likely) even dog.
The most famous Padang dish is rendang, chunks of beef or buffalo simmered slowly in coconut milk until the sauce is reduced to a rich paste and the meat becomes dark and dried. Other popular dishes include telor balado (egg dusted with red chilli), ikan panggang (fish baked in coconut and chilli) and gulai merah kambing (red mutton curry).
Most couples pick one or two meat dishes and a vegetable, usually kangkung (water spinach), and load up with a plate or two of rice. Carbs are manna in Padang cuisine. Vegetarians should ask for tempe or tahu (tofu), which comes doctored up in a spicy sambal.
Before digging into the meal with your right hand, wash up in the provided bowl of water. Food and sauces should be spooned onto your plate of rice, then mixed together with the fingers. The rice will be easier to handle if it is a little wet. Use your fingers to scoop up the food, and your thumb to push it into your mouth. It’s messy even for the locals.
Padang cuisine has an earthy spiciness that might need a little sweet tea or water as a chaser. There is usually a tumbler of lukewarm water (a sign that it has been boiled for sterilisation) on the table.
7Shopping
Pasar RayaMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Raya)
Pasar Raya – literally ‘big market’ – is the centre of Padang’s shopping universe; come here for anything from fresh fruit to clothes. It’s next to the large new mall.
8Information
There are ATMs all over town.
Imigrasi OfficeIMMIGRATION OFFICE
(%0751-444511; Jl Khatib Sulaiman; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Thirty-day visa extensions can be obtained for US$35 at the Padang Imigrasi office. It’s about 5km out of town by ojek or taxi.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Azizchan 7; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Near the corner of Jl M Yamin and Jl Azizchan.
Tourism PadangTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-34186; Dinas Kebudayaan Dan Pariwisata, Jl Samudera 1; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Maps of town and a few English-language regional brochures.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Padang’s airport, Bandara Internasional Minangkabau (BIM; http://minangkabau-airport.co.id; Jl Adinegoro), is located 20km north of town.
Boat
Padang is regularly connected to the Mentawai Islands by boat.
Bus
Tranex (%0751-705 8577) buses depart for Bukittinggi (20,000Rp) from the city’s northern fringes, outside the Wisma Indah building. It’s half the price of a door-to-door minibus but it means you have to catch any white angkot (3000Rp) heading north on Jl Permuda (ask for ‘Tranex’ or ‘Wisma Indah’), and then find transport from Bukittinggi bus terminal, which is miles from the centre. In reality you save very little money.
Minibuses to Bukittinggi and other destinations depart from a variety of offices scattered around the city and offer a door-to-door service. Ask your lodgings to arrange a pick up.
The minibuses most relevant to travellers depart from Jl Jhoni Anwar. PO Sinar Kerinci (%0751-783 1299; Jl Jhni Anwar Q4) has regular departures to Sungai Penuh (for Kerinci Seblat National Park). Putra Mandau (%0751-782 2218; Jl Jhoni Anwar) links Padang to Dumai if you’re travelling to/from Sumatra by sea from Malaysia or Singapore. Catch an angkot (3000Rp) north along Jl Permuda and Jl S Parman, get off at the white mosque around 5km north of central Padang, and turn right into Jl Jhoni Anwar.
TRANSPORT FROM PADANG
AIR
| Destination | Airline | Frequency |
| Kuala Lumpur | AirAsia | 2 daily |
| Jakarta | Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 19 daily |
| Medan | Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 3 daily |
| Pulau Batam | Citilink, Lion Air | 5 daily |
BUS
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bukittinggi | 20,000 | 3 | hourly until 6pm |
| Jambi | 165,000-190,000 | 11 | 2 daily |
| Parapat (for Danau Toba) | 180,000 | 18 | daily at 1pm |
| Sungai Penuh | 130,000 | 7-8 | 9am, 10am, 7pm, 8pm |
8Getting Around
Airport taxis charge around 150,000Rp from the airport, but 300,000Rp to the airport. If you’re travelling light, step outside the airport boundaries and hail an ojek to get to central Padang. White Damri ( GOOGLE MAP ; %780 6335) buses (35,000Rp) are a cheaper alternative that loop through Padang, though there are no clearly designated stops and they run to an erratic schedule. If you’re fortunate enough to catch one, tell the conductor your accommodation and street and they’ll drop you at the right stop. If you’re coming from Bukittinggi, pretty much all lodgings can arrange a cheap and convenient airport drop-off service (40,000Rp) in a shared minibus.
There are numerous angkot (3000Rp) around town, operating out of the Angkot terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl M Yamin), but you have to know where you’re going.
Around Padang
If Padang’s traffic is frying your brains, or you’re waiting for a boat, kick back on one of the nearby beaches. Pantai Bungus, 23km south of Padang, is conveniently close to the ferry port of Teluk Kabung, but still sufficiently relaxed to unkink the most frazzled traveller. There’s a host of nearby islands to explore, plus the odd gem in the hinterland. Further south along the coast is Sungai Pinang with its somnolent fishing village vibe.
To reach Pantai Bungus from Padang, take a blue angkot labelled ‘Kabung Bungus’ (15,000Rp, one hour) or a taxi (140,000Rp). There’s no public transport to Sungai Pinang; it’s an hour’s drive along a very rough road from Bungus, so arrange transport from Padang.
1Sights
Air Terjun Tiga TingkatWATERFALL
(Three Tier Waterfall; Pantai Bungus)
This spectacular three-storey waterfall is close to Teluk Kabung, by the village of Koto Lubuk Hitam. It’s an hour’s hike up to the base of the falls for swimming.
Pulau PagangISLAND
Pulau Pagang is a beautiful small island, 1½-hours offshore from Bungus, with white sandy beaches and a handful of basic bungalows. It’s possible to rent a boat from Bungus and stay the night. Ask at Tin Tin Homestay, or among the local fishermen.
4Sleeping
TinTin HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0812 6683 6668; http://tintinhomestay.blogspot.com; Pantai Bungus; r 120,000Rp)
TinTin Homestay is a small, quiet, family-run losmen on Pantai Bungus offering basic, netted rooms a couple of kilometres from the port. It’s run by friendly Raoul who can arrange overnight island trips and multiday trips to the Mentawais.
Jophira TinTin, reachable via a 45-minute boat ride from Pantai Bungus and owned by TinTin Homestay, is a clutch of adorable thatched bungalows on a near-pristine beach. Boat transfers cost 450,000Rp and activities include fishing and snorkelling.
Rimba EcolodgeBUNGALOW$$
(%0821 7082 6361, 0888 0740 2278; www.rimba-ecoproject.com; r 125,000-225,000Rp)S
Rimba Ecolodge is an intimate French-Indonesian-run place reachable by boat from the mainland. Monkeys come to explore the beach where the breeze-cooled bungalows are situated and there’s a timeless, tranquil air to the whole place. Staff are involved in coral reef and wildlife rehabilitation, working closely with the local fishing communities. The menu features plenty of fresh fish and seafood.
Cubadak Paradiso VillageRESORT$$$
(%0812 660 3766; www.cubadak-paradisovillage.com; Pulau Cubadak; r incl full board US$140-190, minimum 2 nights)
Cubadak Paradiso Village is found on tranquil Pulau Cubadak where 13 bungalows perch above teal waters. You can snorkel off your front porch or go diving or canoeing. Pickup from Padang and boat transport is included.
Ricky’s Beach HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0813 6381 1786; Sungai Pinang; r 150,000-200,000Rp; aW)
Ricky’s Beach House in Sungai Pinang fishing village is the kind of place where backpackers end up extending their stay indefinitely. And why would you want to leave the Rasta-coloured beach house, the little beach bungalows or the hammock-hung bar where someone is always ready to break out the guitar and the bongos? Call ahead for transport.
Mentawai Islands
Though not a great distance from the mainland, the Mentawai Islands and its people were kept isolated until the 19th century by strong winds, unpredictable currents and razor-sharp reefs.
It’s thought that the archipelago separated from Sumatra some 500,000 years ago, resulting in unique flora and fauna that sees Mentawai ranked alongside Madagascar in terms of endemic primate population. Of particular interest is siamang kerdil, a rare species of black-and-yellow monkey, named simpai Mentawai by the locals.
The largest island, Siberut, is home to the majority of the Mentawai population and is the most studied and protected island in the archipelago. About 60% of Siberut is still covered with tropical rainforest, which shelters a rich biological community that has earned it a designation as a Unesco biosphere reserve. The western half of the island is protected as the Siberut National Park.
Pulau Sipora is home to Tua Pejat, the seat of regional government and a surfer drop-off point. The archipelago’s airport is located at Rokot. With only 10% original rainforest remaining, it’s also the most developed of the Mentawai Islands.
Further south are the Pulau Pagai islands – Utara (North) and Selatan (South) – which rarely see independent travellers.
Change has come quickly to the Mentawai Islands. Tourism, logging, transmigrasi (a government-sponsored scheme enabling settlers to move from overcrowded regions to sparsely populated ones) and other government-backed attempts to mainstream the culture have separated the people from the jungle and whittled the jungle into profit. It isn’t what it used to be, but it is a long way from being like everywhere else.
Surfers comprise the other island-bound pilgrims, many of whom rank the Mentawais as the ride of their life.
A magnitude 7.7 earthquake hit the islands in October 2010, with a resulting tsunami killing more than 500 people and leaving more than 8000 homeless in the archipelago’s southern islands.
2Activities
Hiking
The river scene from Apocalypse Now has a tendency to flash into your mind as you head upstream in a longboat and watch the people and villages growing wilder by the minute. Soon you’re out of the canoe and following a wild-eyed sikerei (shaman) covered in tattoos and a loincloth through the mud for the next few hours, passing waterfalls, balancing on slippery tree branches and swimming across rivers until you reach his humble abode on poles in the middle of nowhere.
There’s been fervent discussion about the authenticity of these trips, and what actually constitutes a traditional lifestyle. There is scope for both off-the-beaten-track adventure, where you turn up in remote villages and witness Mentawai life as it really is, and more organised ventures where villagers get paid by your guide to dress up in traditional gear, show you how to fish and hunt and engage you in their daily activities.
Mainland tour agencies tend to offer multiday treks, ranging from six to 10 days, but it’s entirely possible to find your own guide, do an independent trip and decide for yourself how long you wish to go for. That said, longer hikes allow you to penetrate deeper into the island and stay in more remote villages, whereas if you opt for just a couple of nights with the Mentawai people, you’re more likely to end up in a village not far removed from Muara Siberut where the villagers expect to be paid to have their photos taken.
Many hotels and guesthouses in and around Padang offer treks or can recommend guides. Blogs, forums and other travellers can be invaluable resources as well. If you have plenty of time, you can just turn up in the Mentawais and ask around at the jetty cafes in Maileppet and Siberut, though a good, recommended guide that you make advance arrangements with can be invaluable. Prices start around 300,000Rp per day, but don’t include transport, food, accommodation or tips. When talking to a prospective guide, clarify exactly what is and isn’t included and see if you can get a detailed breakdown of prices (guide fee per day, food, accommodation and boat), bearing in mind that accommodation prices will be the least of your expenses.
If you prefer a mainland-organised trek, prices in Bukittinggi and Padang start at around US$500 for six days and normally include a guide, accommodation, food and transport. Always check for any additional costs.
MENTAWAI HIKING TIPS
- Dress for mud wrestling. Most of your gear will get trashed, so leave behind your finest garments and bear in mind you may need to swim across the odd river.
- Double-bag everything in plastic bags (or carry your gear in a dry bag) and keep one set of clothes dry for the evenings.
- Don’t walk in flip-flops – step into deep bog and you’ll never see them again. Trainers or trekking boots are a must. Keep flip-flops handy for downtime in the villages.
- Travel light. Large packs are a hindrance and anything tied to the outside is a goner.
- Prepare for poor water sanitation. The local rivers serve all purposes, so water purification (tablets or Steripen) is recommended, as is a water pump to filter out impurities. Alternatively, you can carry your weight in bottled water.
- Take precautions against chloroquine-resistant malaria which still exists on Siberut, though SurfAid (www.surfaidinternational.org) has been actively working to limit its spread. DDT-strength insect repellent is advisable, as are mosquito nets if you’re travelling independently (tour agencies tend to provide them).
- Don’t expect electricity in the evenings. A torch is your best friend, especially when it comes to negotiating your way to the local privy at night.
- Prepare for rain. May is generally the driest month, while October and November are the wettest – but it can rain at any time. The easiest thing is to just accept that you’re going to get wet.
- Buy essential supplies in Padang, where there is greater choice (and cheaper prices) than in Siberut.
- Buy items for bartering and gifts. If heading to remote communities, remember that everything tends to be shared, so bring plenty of food.
Surfing
The Mentawai islands have consistent surf year-round at dozens of legendary breaks. The season peaks between April and October, with off-season waves kinder on intermediate surfers. Mentawai waves are not for beginners; most breaks are reef breaks, some of them very shallow. Choose between staying at land-based losmen, surf camps and resorts; live-aboard boat charters head further afield.
With patience, attitude and a handful of contacts it’s possible to put together your own independent surfing safari for a fraction of the cost of a package tour. Budget accommodation is on the increase throughout the Mentawais, and chartering a longboat is relatively easy.
The most consistent cluster of waves is in the Playground area, but things can get rather crowded during peak season. The most unpeopled waves are off the practically uninhabited Pulau Pagai Selatan; due to their remoteness, they’re the premise of charter boat surfers.
Check some of the more popular surfing blogs, such as GlobalSurfers (www.globalsurfers.com) and WannaSurf (www.wannasurf.com), for the latest intel.
FIXING A SURFING SAFARI
A good fixer is worth their weight in gold. They will meet you at the airport, show you where you can procure various supplies, then get the whole lot to the port and safely stowed on the ferry. They will have already arranged your arrival day to coincide with the ferry schedule, and secured you a cabin or seat. On your return, they’ll meet the ferry and get you and all your gear back to the airport.
You then need a second fixer out in the islands, who will meet your ferry, tee up a longboat, ship your gear, and drop you at a cheap losmen or basic hut somewhere close to your favourite break. They’ll even arrange a cook if you want one. Of course, all this costs money, and rest assured, your fixer is taking a cut from everybody. But with careful planning and bargaining it’s still going to be a whole lot cheaper than two weeks in a resort.
How do you find a fixer? Without any recommendations, your first trip will always be a learning curve. Experienced surfers come back year after year and use the same fixers, boat drivers and hut owners. All business is conducted by mobile phone, and good fixers will also have email addresses. Watch closely what other groups are doing – maybe you can share a taxi to the port, or bum a lift in a speedboat – all the time filling your mobile phone with contact numbers.
There’s nothing stopping you doing all this organising yourself, but it’s time and energy you’d most likely rather leave for the waves.
If you’re looking to set something up before you arrive, contact Harris Smile (%0821 2241 0133; harrissmile@yahoo.com), a friendly, English-speaking Tua Pejat local. But be sure to bargain hard, and if you can, ask around first about boat prices before you commit to anything.
TTours
Tours and surf charters can be organised in Padang.
THE MENTAWAIANS
The untouched, the unbaptised and the unphotographed have long drawn Westerners to distant corners of the globe. And the Mentawaians have seen every sort of self-anointed discoverer: the colonial entrepreneurs hoping to harness the land for profit, missionaries trading medicine for souls and modern-day tourists eager to experience life before the machine.
Very little is known about the origins of the Mentawaians, but it is assumed that they emigrated from Sumatra to Nias and made their way to Siberut from there.
At the time of contact with missionaries, the Mentawaians had their own language, adat (traditional laws and regulations) and religion, and were skilled boat builders. They lived a hunter-gatherer existence.
Traditional clothing was a loincloth made from the bark of the breadfruit tree for men and a bark skirt for women. Mentawaians wore bands of red-coloured rattan, beads and imported brass rings. They filed their teeth into points and decorated their bodies with tattoos.
After independence, the Indonesian government banned many of the Mentawaians’ customs, such as tattoos, sharpened teeth and long hair. Although the ban has not been enforced, many villagers have adopted modern fashions.
Traditional villages are built along riverbanks and consist of one or more uma (communal house) surrounded by lalep (single-storey family houses). Several families live in the same building. Bachelors and widows have their own quarters, known as rusuk, identical to the family longhouse except they have no altar.
Although essentially patriarchal, society is organised on egalitarian principles. There are no inherited titles or positions and no subordinate roles. It is the uma, not the village itself, which is pivotal to society. It is here that discussions affecting the community take place.
The native Sibulungan religion is a form of animism, involving the worship of nature spirits and a belief in the existence of ghosts, as well as the soul. The chief nature spirits are those of the sky, the sea, the jungle and the earth. The sky spirits are considered the most influential. There are also two river spirits: Ina Oinan (Mother of Rivers) is beneficent, while Kameinan (Father’s Sister) is regarded as evil.
German missionary August Lett was the first to attempt to convert the local people, but he was not entirely successful: eight years after his arrival Lett was murdered by the locals. Somehow the mission managed to survive, however, and 11 baptisms had been recorded by 1916. There are now more than 80 Protestant churches throughout the islands.
More than 50 years after the Protestants, Catholic missionaries moved in to vie for converts. They opened a mission – a combined church, school and clinic – and free medicines and clothes were given to any islander who converted.
Islam was introduced when government officials were appointed from Padang during the Dutch era. Today more than half the population claims to be Protestant, 16% Catholic and 13% Muslim, though the number of the latter is growing due to government efforts at Islamisation. An Italian priest, Padre Pio, who has lived on the Mentawaians for decades, returned from Italy recently to find his village school in ruins, a concrete mosque in place and the headman riding a new motorbike.
4Sleeping
Along with transport, accommodation will be your primary expense in the Mentawais. Trekking guides will organise family homestays for around 100,000Rp per night.
For surfers, accommodation falls roughly into three price categories: losmen (around US$35 to US$40 per night, including meals) and surf camps and resorts (US$100 to US$200 per night for a midrange place and over US$300 for top end). The best-located losmen are found on Masokut Island (in the middle of Playground), just south of Pulau Siberut; in Katiet, at the bottom of Pulau Sipora (in front of the iconic HT’s break); on Pulau Pagai Utara (in front of the Macca’s breaks); and facing the Telescopes break on Tua Pejat. Bring all your supplies, drinking water and mosquito nets. To get to Masokut, either bum a lift with another group, or charter a longboat from Siberut. As for the rest, interisland ferries can get you reasonably close.
Surf camp and resort prices typically include transfers to/from the nearest port (Siberut, Tua Pejat) and two speedboat outings per day to catch the best waves. Most top-end places include private speedboat transfer from Padang. Most operate on a package basis for around 10 days, and prebooking is required.
There’s a plethora of surf resorts in the Playground and Tua Pejat areas, a couple in Katiet and just one apiece in the far-flung Pulau Pagai Utara and Pulau Pagai Selatan.
There are a couple of basic hotels in both Siberut and Tua Pejat, for the unlikely event that you get stuck waiting for a ferry.
Playground
Bintang Surf CampSURF CAMP$$
(%0812 6617 4454; Pulau Masokut; per person 400,000Rp)
A short walk from Ebay on Pulau Masokut, this chilled-out surf camp is the best of the local budget lot, with basic thatched huts and shared rooms, ample portions of delicious Indonesian food and the kind of camaraderie you get when you throw 20 young Brazilians, Aussies, Irish and Norwegians together. Can be booked through Regina Adventures in Padang.
Mentawai Surf RetreatSURF CAMP$$
(%0812 6157 0187, 0751-36345; www.mentawaisurfingretreat.com; Masokut Island; 10 nights US$2500; hFeb-Nov; W)
With Pitstops breaking right in front of the four breezy Mentawai-style cottages, this intimate surf retreat has an enviable location on Masokut Island. It attracts a largely Aussie crowd with its combination of comfort (king-sized beds, large open bathrooms, delicious Indonesian food) and immediate proximity to several good waves. Manager Brent can also advise on trekking on Siberut.
Shadow Mentawai Surf CampSURF CAMP$$
(www.theshadowmentawai.com; surfer/nonsurfer per day US$120/100; W)
On tiny, lush Pulau Buasak on the outskirts of Playground, Shadow is run by friendly local surfer brothers Ade and Dodi and their crew. Solo surfers lodge in cosy two-person bunk rooms with air-con, while couples are more likely to end up in the thatched cottage with a simple outdoor Indonesian bathroom.
oKandui VillasRESORT$$$
(%0751-841946, 0812 664 0941; www.kanduivillas.com; Pulau Karangmajat; surfer/nonsurfer per night US$335/250; aWs)
Located on Pulau Karangmajat, American-owned Kandui Villas is a short paddle from Kandui Left, not far from the legendary Rifles and with unlimited speedboat transfers to the waves, making this the pro surfer digs of choice. Guests are lodged in 12 luxurious, breezy umas (Mentawai-style cottages) with king-sized beds. Nonsurfing partners and children can lounge by the infinity pool.
Wavepark ResortRESORT$$$
(%0812 663 5551; www.wavepark.com; 10-night package incl meals US$3600; aiW)
Wavepark has a front-row view of Hideaways from its lookout tower and large, comfortable, breezy bungalows (with the best bathrooms in the Mentawais) on a private island. Nonsurfing activities (sea kayaking, snorkelling) make it a favourite with returning surfing/nonsurfing couples, and the excellent bar-restaurant screens surfing photos of the day.
Pitstop Hill ResortRESORT$$$
(www.pitstophill.com; Pulau Masokut; 10-day package incl meals US$3500; aW)
High on a hill overlooking Pitstops and around the corner from Ebay, this Aussie-run resort has six rooms in a main house, and a luxury villa for couples and families. It’s wildly popular with return visitors, so book about five months ahead of time.
Pulau Sipora/Tua Pejat
oAloita Resort & SpaRESORT$$
(%0813 6252 7350, 0821 7015 3742; www.aloitaresort.com; surfer/nonsurfer per day from US$175/125; aW)S
Eight bungalows in a garden setting occupy a private beach within easy reach of Telescopes and Iceland and there’s a beginner’s surf break a short walk away. Italian-run Aloita contributes to the local community (by employing local staff and funding a school) and offers diving and paddle boarding. The spa and yoga terrace make it a good option for surfers planning on bringing partners or family.
Awera IslandGUESTHOUSE$$
(www.aweraisland.com; Awera Island; per person US$120; W)
This small guesthouse has a beach-house vibe and is just a short hop from Iceland, Suicides and other decent breaks. Accommodation is geared towards solo surfers, with airy two-bed bunk rooms, large screen projector for movie-watching, and surfing guide Pete on hand to stitch up any injuries. The beach is perfect for downtime snorkelling and jungle hikes are an option.
Uma Awera LodgeSURF CAMP$$
(%0821 7086 6999; desti.sababalat@gmail.com; per person US$95)
On Awera Island, within easy range of Iceland, Suicides and Telescopes, this friendly place is run by Desti and her brother. Five traditional thatched Mentawai cottages sit amid well-kept grounds, each with twin beds, fans, mosquito nets and bucket showers. Head to the dining area for impromptu music sessions and a mix of Indo and international dishes.
Oinan Surf LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0821 7086 6999, 0821 2241 0133; harrissmile@yahoo.com; Jl Mappadejat Km4; r incl meals 600,000Rp; aW)
Not actually by the sea, the hilly Oinan Surf Lodge, around 4km from Tua Pejat, has amazing terrace views of the iconic Telescopes wave. Rooms are stylish and chic (one with private bathroom); the lodge has its own boat for easy transport to other good breaks.
oTogat NusaRESORT$$$
(www.togatnusaretreat.com; Pitojat; d incl meals US$250; aW)
On the private 12-hectare island of Pitojat, Togat Nusa’s four bungalows cater to only eight guests at a time. The funky and stylish accommodation is crafted using recycled driftwood and stained glass, and good snorkelling and romantic beach dinners make it a good option for surfing/nonsurfing couples. The excellent bar is haunted by a guest-loving langur.
Katiet
HT’s Surf ResortSURF RESORT$$$
(%0813 3733 7224; www.htresort.com; 9 nights from US$1200; aWs)
With an enviable location in front of the legendary HT’s right-hander and just a short hop from Lance’s Left, Bintangs, Cobra’s and even a couple of beach breaks, HT’s is all about the creature comforts (hot showers, air-con, sports on cable) combined with killer views. Downtime fun includes paddle boarding, snorkelling, and snoozing under palm trees.
8Information
The islands are largely undeveloped. Bring all necessities. There’s an ATM in Tua Pejat, but don’t rely on it.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Twelve-seater Susi Air (www.susiair.com) planes link Padang to Rokot airport on Pulau Sipora, but flights are unreliable, with weather delays and last-minute cancellations. Sometimes they agree to take surfboards for around US$100 per board, sometimes they refuse altogether. Book with Regina Adventures in Padang. Flights leave Padang on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, returning later the same day. The Indonesian government plans to extend the airport on Pulau Sipora to allow access by larger planes.
Boat
The Mentawai Islands have become considerably easier to reach with the introduction of a 200-seater speedboat, Mentawai Fast. There are also three ferries that make the overnight journey from the Sumatran mainland to the islands. Ferries take around 10 to 12 hours, depending on sea conditions. In Padang, ferries can be booked through most surfer-friendly homestays, as well as tour agencies.
FERRIES FROM THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS
Mentawai Fast (%0751-893 489; mentawaifast@gmail.com; one way 295,000Rp, surfboard 230,000Rp) conveniently runs from the dock in central Padang; note that when it stops at Sikabaluan en route to Siberut from Padang, the total journey time to Siberut is six hours.
| Day | Departure (location/time) | Arrival (location/time) |
| Monday | Padang/6am | Tua Pejat/9am |
| Monday | Tua Pejat/3pm | Padang/6pm |
| Tuesday | Padang/7am | Siberut/3pm |
| Tuesday | Siberut/3pm | Padang/6pm |
| Wednesday | Padang/7am | Tua Pejat/10am |
| Wednesday | Tua Pejat/7am | Padang/3pm |
| Friday | Padang/7am | Sioban/10.30am |
| Friday | Sioban/noon | Tua Pejat/1pm |
| Friday | Tua Pejat/3pm | Padang/6pm |
| Saturday | Padang/7am | Siberut/11am |
| Saturday | Siberut/3pm | Padang/7pm |
Ambu Ambu & Gambolo are the biggest ferries connecting Padang and the Mentawai islands. Options include air-conditioned VIP seats (180,000Rp), more basic economy seats (95,000Rp) and wooden berths you can lie down on (50,000Rp). Of the two, the Gambolo is more comfortable, though both tend to be very crowded. Both ferries leave from the Teluk Kabang port at Bungus, around 20km south of Padang.
| Day | Departure (location/time) | Arrival (location) | Vessel Name |
| Monday | Tua Pejat/8pm | Padang | Gambolo |
| Tuesday | Padang/5pm | Sikakap | Ambu Ambu |
| Wednesday | Padang/7pm | Siberut | Gambolo |
| Thursday | Padang/7pm | Tua Pejat | Ambu Ambu |
| Thursday | Siberut/9pm | Padang | Gambolo |
| Friday | Padang/7pm | Siberut | Gambolo |
| Friday | Tua Pejat/8pm | Padang | Ambu Ambu |
| Saturday | Padang/5pm | Sikakap | Ambu Ambu |
| Saturday | Siberut/7pm | Padang | Gambolo |
| Sunday | Padang/7pm | Tua Pejat | Gambolo |
| Sunday | Sikakap/5pm | Padang | Ambu Ambu |
Beriloga is a smaller wooden ferry that departs from the river mouth (Sungai Muara) on Sungai Batang Arau just south of central Padang. Your only option is the crowded deck class (155,000Rp). Departure times depend on the tide. Don’t count on the Bariloga getting you back to Padang for an urgent international flight. It leaves Padang for Siberut on Monday and for Sioban on Wednesday. It returns to Padang from Siberut on Tuesday and from Sioban on Thursday.
8Getting Around
If you’re travelling independently, travelling between islands or surfing spots is an easy way to drift into insolvency. You have three options: charter a speedboat, catch one of the three interisland ferries whose schedules are prone to changes and delay, or ask around to see if you can share a boat with another group.
Single-engine longboats can be hired from the main villages; if you want to hire a more comfortable two-engine speedboat with a roof, expect to pay considerably more. Sample charter routes (up to five passengers) include Muara Siberut to Ebay (1,500,000Rp, 1½ hours), Ebay to Playgrounds (1,000,000Rp, 30 minutes), Playgrounds to Tua Pejat (3,500,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Sioban to Katiet (1,500,000Rp, two hours). As petrol prices keep increasing, expect the charter prices to rise.
If you have more time than money, you can island-hop all the way from Siberut to Sao (near Katiet) using the three interisland ferries, KM Beriloga, KM Simasini and KM Simatalu; ticket prices start from 25,000Rp. That’s right: a tiny fraction of speedboat costs, thanks to government subsidies. Check the latest timings with your fixer or your surf camp.
INTERISLAND FERRY CONNECTIONS
| Departure | Destination | Vessel Name | Frequency |
| Maileppet | Tua Pejat | KM Beriloga, KM Simatalu | Monday, Thursday, Friday, Sunday |
| Sao (Katiet) | Sioban, Tua Pejat | KM Simatalu | Tuesday |
| Sikakap | Tua Pejat | KM Simasini | Wednesday, Sunday |
| Tua Pejat | Maileppet | KM Beriloga, KM Simasini | Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday |
| Tua Pejat | Sikakap | KM Simasini | Monday, Saturday |
Bukittinggi
%0752 / Pop 112,000
The market town of Bukittinggi sits high above the valley mists as three sentinels – fire-breathing Merapi, benign Singgalang and distant Sago – all look on impassively. Sun-ripened crops grow large in the rich volcanic soil, as frogs call in the paddies, bendis (two-person horse-drawn carts) haul goods to the pasa (market), and the muezzin’s call is heard through the town. Modern life seems far removed. Until 9am. Then the traffic starts up, and there’s soon a mile-long jam around the bus terminal. The air turns the colour of diesel and the mosques counter the traffic by cranking up their amps. Such is the incongruity of modern Bukittinggi, blessed by nature, choked by mortals. Lush. Fertile. Busy. And at 930m above sea level, deliciously temperate all year round.
The town (alternatively named Tri Arga, which refers to the triumvirate of peaks) has had a chequered history, playing host at various times to Islamic reformists, Dutch colonials, Japanese invaders and Sumatran separatists. It’s a good base for setting out to the Harau Valley and Danau Maninjau.
Bukittinggi
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights
Taman PanoramaVIEWPOINT
(Panorama Park; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Panorama; admission 10,000Rp)
Taman Panorama, on the southern edge of town, overlooks the deep Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Canyon), where fruit bats swoop at sunset. Friendly guides will approach visitors to lead you through Gua Jepang (Japanese Caves; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), wartime defensive tunnels built by Japanese slave labour; settle on a price (around 30,000Rp) before continuing. Another path (and extra admission) gives you access to the Koto Gadang (Great Wall), a cheesy scaled-down Great Wall of China.
Pasar AtasMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Pasar Atas is a large, colourful market crammed with stalls selling fruit and vegetables, secondhand clothing and crafts. It’s open daily. Find it on the east side of Jl Minangkabau.
Jam GadangLANDMARK
(Big Clock Tower; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; btwn Jl Istana & Jl Sudirman)
Built in the 1920s to house the clock, a gift from the Dutch queen, Jam Gadang is the town’s focal point. Independence in 1945 saw the retrofit of a Minangkabau roof.
Benteng de KockVIEWPOINT
(Benteng Fort; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Benteng; admission 7000Rp; h8am-5pm)
Benteng de Kock was built by the Dutch during the Padri Wars. There’s not much to it but it offers fine views over the town. The adjacent zoo is terrible (animals are underfed and live in cramped conditions) and we don’t recommend visiting it.
MIXING BUSINESS WITH FRIENDSHIP
In Indonesia, the line between business and socialising isn’t as distinct as it is in the West. We expect printed prices and obvious sales tactics. Without a price tag, we assume that it is free or done out of friendship. On the other side of the cultural divide, Sumatrans prefer business to resemble friendship: a little chit-chat, a steady sales pitch and a sort of telepathic understanding that payment is expected. They’d rather be helpful than entrepreneurial, but necessity dictates an income. The sluggish state of the Sumatran economy means that unemployment is high, with an overload of young resourceful men supporting themselves by guiding too few tourists.
Always ask about prices and don’t assume that the quoted price is all-inclusive. You are expected to buy lunch and drinking water for your guide. If transport isn’t included in the initial price, you should pay for this as well. A tip at the end is also welcome. Most guides are smokers and a pack costs about 10,000Rp. If all this seems steep, keep in mind that most guides don’t have much more than a couple of crumpled rupiah to their name, and not a lot of other opportunity for employment.
TTours
Local tours fall into two categories – culture and nature – and can range from a half-day meander through neighbouring villages to a three-day jungle trek to Danau Maninjau, or an overnight assault on Gunung Merapi. For climbing in the nearby Harau Valley, contact Abdi Homestay.
Full-day tours start at around 250,000Rp. Some tours have a minimum quota, though some guides and agencies also run solo tours by motorbike. If approached by a freelance guide, be clear about what you want, and what is and isn’t included.
ArmandoDRIVING TOUR
(%0812 674 1852, 0812 6642 0468; arisna_sejati@yahoo.co.id; day tour US$20-25)
Armando is a helpful, knowledgeable English-speaking guide who is happy to give you cultural tours of the area around Bukittinggi on the back of his motorcycle. He also rents motorbikes if you want to ride your own.
Lite ’n’ Easy Tours & TravelADVENTURE TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 7453 7413; www.liteneasy.co.id; Jl Yos Sudarso 12)
This friendly team offers West Sumatra tour options, including Gunung Merapi, the Harau Valley and Danau Maninjau, and trekking on the Mentawai Island of Siberut.
Roni’s Tour & TravelADVENTURE TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 675 0688; www.ronistours.com; Orchid Hotel, Jl Teuku Umar )
Based at the Orchid Hotel, Roni’s can arrange everything from local tours to Danau Maninjau and the Harau Valley, to trips to further-afield locations such as the Mentawai Islands and the Kerinci Seblat National Park.
zFestivals & Events
Oxen RacingSPORTS
(donation 10,000-15,000Rp)
Local farmer-jockeys race twin oxen through a muddy paddy field, balancing precariously on the wooden runners. This spectacle, which animal welfare experts claim uses inhumane tactics to make the beasts run, takes place near Simasur market in Batu Sangkar, 41km southeast of Bukittinggi, on most Saturdays. Some enterprising locals try to charge foreigners 50,000Rp admission, but a donation is sufficient. Hello Guesthouse can help organise transport.
Horse RacingSPORTS
Bukittinggi holds an annual horse race at Bukit Ambacang in early March. Horses are ridden bareback and jockeys wear regional costumes, vying to win kudos for their village, and something else for the onlookers’ wallets. Solok and Sawahlunto also hold annual races.
4Sleeping
Hotel tax is only added at top-end places and can be negotiated. On weekends and holidays, rooms can fill quickly with Indonesian visitors, but good weekday discounts can usually be negotiated. In Bukittinggi’s temperate climate, hot water is more desirable than air-con.
oHello GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-21542; helloguesthouse12@gmail.com; Jl Teuku Umar 6b; dm/s/d from 75,000/120,000/150,000Rp; W)
This excellent new guesthouse with bright and modern rooms is run by thoughtful owner Ling, who understands the needs of budget travellers. She is happy to provide maps of town, has displays on town attractions, and has thoughtfully kitted out her digs with super-comfy mattresses and earplugs to counter the guesthouse’s proximity to a mosque. Spacious deluxe rooms come with balconies.
oRajawali HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-31905; ulrich.rudolph@web.de; Jl Ahmad Yani 152; r 80,000Rp)
The eight rooms at this friendly, central homestay are basic and come with Indonesian bathrooms. The irrepressible Ulrich is the best source of local (and regional) knowledge in town, with advice on detailed walks and motorcycle rides around Bukittingi and excellent GPS maps. The roof terrace is perfect for sunset beers as you watch the twilight squadrons of bats flying past.
Orchid HotelHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-32634; roni_orchid@hotmail.com; Jl Teuku Umar 11; r 120,000-150,000Rp; W)
This popular backpacker inn is ground zero for arranging tours and activities with Roni’s Tour & Travel, which is highly praised by travellers. The rooms here could do with sprucing up though.
oTreeli HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-625350; treeliboutiquehotel@gmail.com; Jl Kesehatan 36A; s/d/tr 315,000/500,000/780,000Rp; aW)
An excellent new addition to the rather tired midrange bunch, Treeli gets a lot of things right. Rooms are compact and quiet, with funky wallpaper, modern bathrooms and all sorts of mod cons. An excellent breakfast is served on the breezy roof terrace and the restaurant specialises in Chinese-style seafood dishes.
Hotel Grand KartiniHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-33337; info@grandkartini.com; Jl Teuku Umar 5; r 375,000Rp; aW)
White is the predominant colour at this smart, super-central hotel. Rooms are compact yet comfortable, breakfast is good and fans can be provided if requested. Staff vary between helpful and utterly disinterested. Bring earplugs; there’s a mosque next door. There’s no lift.
Grand Rocky HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-627 000; www.rockyhotelsgroup.com; Jl Yos Sudarso; r incl breakfast 900,000-1,000,000Rp; aWs)
Adding a touch of Vegas glamour to Bukittinggi’s top-end range, Grand Rocky stands sentinel above town, its lobby bustling with bow-tied staff. Rooms are spacious and modern, views stretch to the Sianok Canyon, and it’s just a short downhill stroll to the brightish lights of central Bukittinggi. Check online for good discounts if you’re keen for a mini-splurge.
HillsBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-35000; www.thehillshotel.com; Jl Laras Dutuk Bandaro; r 955,000-1,205,000Rp; aWs)
Commanding the heights like a Moorish citadel, Hills is usually full of VIPs and their security squads. Sports lovers can get active here with swimming, volleyball, basketball or table tennis, while the less inclined should drop by the hotel’s Anai Bar for great views and relatively pricey drinks. Breakfast lets the side down, given the room price.
5Eating & Drinking
Bukittinggi has long been the one place in Sumatra where weary road bums can give their poor chilli-nuked organs a chance to recover with lashings of lovingly bland Western food.
In the evenings, sate stalls spring up on the western side of the square, while the tents lining Jl Ahmad Yani cook up mie and nasi goreng (fried rice), murtabak mesir (filled pancake) and roti cane (flat bread).
Waroeng Jalal Spesifik SambalINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kesehatan; mains 6000-20,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; Wv)
Fans of spicy dishes will love this shady garden warung specialising mostly in sambal dishes. Squid, prawns, chicken, tofu, tempeh and aubergine are all cooked in a rich, fiery chilli sauce, with kangkung (water spinach) providing a mild accompaniment. The beer may well be Bukittinggi’s coldest. Get here early lest they run out of the most popular dishes.
Simpang RayaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Minangkabau; meals around 50,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
The best place in town to sample the fabled Padang cuisine – spicy, flavourful dishes, with a particularly savoury rendang (beef coconut curry). Just ask for the assortment of what’s on offer.
Ramadan MarketMARKET$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Cinduo Mato; dishes from 10,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
During the month of Ramadan, this car park turns into a whirlwind of culinary activity as dozens of stalls press sugar-cane juice, cook up rendang, concoct elaborate desserts and deep-fry all sorts of artery-clogging goodies. Locals shop here during the day in preparation for the breaking of the fast and it’s a terrific place to try local dishes.
Bedudal CafeCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; W)
Make yourself comfortable amid the wooden carvings and posters of the Doors and order from an extensive menu of pizza, calzone, pasta, soups and whole roast chicken (250,000Rp, order in advance). The waiters break out the bongos and guitars for occasional jam sessions and it can get full.
De Kock CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Teuku Umar 18; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; W)
Under the same management as Bedudal Cafe, and with exactly the same menu, De Kock (cannon, in case you’re wondering) serves a delicious mixture of Western and Indonesian dishes in arty, stone-walled surroundings. Order a roast chicken for you and your ravenous friends here.
Turret CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani 140-142; mains 25,000-40,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; W)
A smattering of Western dishes with the odd inclusion of mie goreng (fried noodles) and green curry, cold beer, and the best guacamole in town. Prepare for a leisurely meal.
NelayanSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Benteng; mains 40,000-60,000Rp; h6pm-11pm)
Slightly more low key than its sister establishment in Padang (less neon!), Nelayan really delivers when it comes to sweet-and-sour squid, black pepper crab and other seafood delights. Portions are big enough to feed a legion. No prices on the menu, so ask before you order.
Rimbun Espresso & Brew BarCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani; coffee from 25,000Rp; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat)
The home of Bukittinggi’s best coffee, with frappes, cappuccinos, frappuccinos and more, made with local beans. Latte art has finally made it to Bukittinggi and in the evenings this spot turns into a lively watering hole.
3Entertainment
Gedung Medan Nan BalinduangDANCE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Lenggogeni; tickets 50,000Rp; h8.30pm)
Medan Nan Balinduang presents Minangkabau dance performances. Check with your lodgings for the latest schedule.
7Shopping
Jl Minangkabau is good for shopping for woven bags and batik shirts, while upper Jl Ahmad Yani has traditional crafts and antiques.
Beautiful red and gold Minangkabau embroidery can be found in the pasar.
Makmur ArtsARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-22208; Jl Ahmad Yani 10; h10am-8pm)
An extensive collection of antiques, including Minangkabau brass salapah panjang (long boxes) used for storing lime and tobacco, silver salapah padusi for betel nut and lime, brass gongs, kerises (ceremonial daggers), 100-year-old wooden masks and heavy coconut-wood-and-brass necklaces formerly worn by local warriors.
8Information
Banks and ATMs are scattered along Jl Ahmad Yani and Jl A Karim. Travel agencies line Jl Ahmad Yani for flight and bus bookings.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman; internet access per hr 6000Rp; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri)
South of town near the bus terminal.
Rumah Sakit Sayang BariHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Dr Rivai)
This hospital is just west of central Bukittinggi.
8Getting There & Away
The chaos of the main bus terminal, Aur Kuning, 3km south of town, is easily reached by angkot (3000Rp); ask for ‘terminal.’ Heading to central Bukittinggi on arrival ask for ‘Kampung China.’
The main bus terminal is useful for some bus departures but not all. Minibuses to Sibolga depart from offices on Jl Veteran as do minibuses to Parapat.
Randy Tours & Travel (%0813 7528 7345, 0812 6764 394; Jl Veteran 19) sells tickets for a daily 7pm service; scheduled door-to-door transfers to Padang are more convenient than waiting for a bus at the terminal. Most lodgings can point you in the right direction and assist with booking passage.
The best way to get to Dumai – for ferries to Melaka and Kuala Lupmpur in Malaysia – is with BWE Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752 625 140, 0752 625 139; Jl Pemuda 81). Minibuses leave Bukittinggi nightly at 8pm, and departures are timed to link with the ferry from Dumai to Melaka. Prebooking is required. BWE can also book the ferry for you; you’ll need to drop in the day before departure with your passport.
BUSES FROM BUKITTINGGI
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bengkulu | 125,000-150,000 | 18 | 2-3 daily |
| Danau Maninjau | 17,000 | 1½ | frequent |
| Dumai | 160,000 | 10 | 7pm daily |
| Medan | 160,000-200,000 | 20 | several daily |
| Padang | 25,000-30,000 | 3-4 | frequent |
| Parapat (for Danau Toba) | 180,000-200,000 | 16 | several daily |
| Pekanbaru | 130,000 | 7 | 6 daily |
| Sibolga (for Pulau Nias) | 110,000-150,000 | 12 | several daily |
8Getting Around
Angkot around town cost 3000Rp. Bendi start from 20,000Rp; bargain hard. An ojek from the bus terminal to the hotels costs 15,000Rp and a taxi costs 30,000Rp. Transfers to Padang airport can be arranged from any travel agent for around 55,000Rp. A private taxi to Padang airport is around 300,000Rp.
For motorbike rental, visit Glory Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ; Tilal Bookshop, Jl Ahmad Yani; per day 60,000Rp) or enquire at your lodgings.
Around Bukittinggi
While Bukittinggi is an interesting market town, visitors come to explore the traditional architecture and craft of the Minangkabau countryside, to bag a volcano or two, or to hunt for the world’s largest and smelliest flowers.
Handicraft Villages
oSumatera LoomARTS CENTRE
(%0823 8936 8875, 0752-783 4253; www.songketminang.com; h8-11am & 1-4pm Mon-Sat)
Handicraft and textile fans should not miss Sumatera Loom near Simpang Bukit Batabuah 7km southeast of Bukittinggi. Dedicated to revitalising the traditional Minangkabau art of songket (silver or gold-threaded cloth) weaving, the studio has trained young weavers (aged 18 to 28) in the art of producing Sumatra’s finest. Replicas of heritage songkets based on antique cloths in museums and contemporary updates are both woven here. From the Aur Kuning bus terminal, catch a yellow opelet to Batu Taba (3500Rp), getting off at the SMKN1 (high school). Phone ahead.
This project was begun in 2005 by a Swiss architect who’d spent years studying songkets. The gold and silver thread used is the finest possible ordered from India rather than Singapore. You can visit the studio and watch weavers at work and purchase these extremely high-quality weavings.
Koto GadangVILLAGE
Silversmiths occupy several old Dutch houses of Koto Gadang, 5km from Bukittinggi (an angkot costs 3000Rp). Alternatively, it’s an hour’s walk from Taman Panorama. Silver Work (Jln Sawahan 1) by Weli Syar Mak Wan is particularly worth seeking out for his intricate, fine models of traditional houses, delicate rings and more.
Pandai SikatVILLAGE
Pandai Sikat (Clever Craftsmen) is famous for songket weaving and carving building decorations out of wood. The village is 13km south of Bukittinggi. Take an angkot (5000Rp) from Aur Kuning.
South of Bukittinggi
The rich volcanic soil of the hilly countryside around Bukittinggi oozes fertility. Stop by the roadside and you can spot cinnamon, betel nut, avocado, coffee, mango and papaya trees. Rice, tapioca and potatoes grow in terraces, while bamboo waterwheels feed irrigation ditches and drive wooden grinding mills. You may see a wedding parade. The bride and groom, dressed in full traditional regalia, are accompanied by musicians, family members and half the village. The Minangkabau tribal flags (red, black and yellow) typically mark the site of the festivities.
The sights in this area can be combined into a scenic day tour, either by renting a motorbike, taking a motorbike tour (300,000Rp) or hiring a car and driver (600,000Rp).
Rumah Gadang PagaruyungPALACE
(King’s Palace)
In the village of Silinduang Bulan, 5km north of Batu Sangkar, the heartland of the red Tanah Datar clan of Minangkabau, Rumah Gadang Pagaruyung is a scaled-down replica of the former home of the rulers of the ancient Minangkabau kingdom of Payaruyung. A fire razed it to the ground in 2007, but it has been reconstructed. Batu Sangkar can be reached via public bus (22,000Rp, 1½ hours) from Bukittinggi, where you can continue an by ojek (8,000Rp) to Silinduang Bulan.
Istano Silinduang BulanPALACE
(Queen’s Palace; admission 5000Rp)
Near the King’s Palace in Silinduang Bulan, 5km north of Batu Sangkar, Istano Silinduang Bulan was damaged by lightning in 2011, but has been rebuilt since. This building is still used for important clan meetings.
Conservatorium of Traditional MusicARTS CENTRE
(STSI, ASKI; Jl Bundo Kanduang 35; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to noon Fri)
Ethno-musicologists make the pilgrimage to the town of Padangpanjang, 19km south of Bukittinggi, to see the Conservatorium of Traditional Music. Minangkabau dance and music are preserved and performed here. Regular buses run between Bukittinggi and Padangpanjang (12,000Rp).
BelimbingVILLAGE
(entry by donation)
Belimbing, a village southeast of Batu Sangkar, is one of the largest surviving collections of traditional architecture in the highlands. Many of the homes are 300 years old and in various states of decay. Most owners have built modern homes nearby and use the relics for ceremonial purposes.
MINANGKABAU WOMEN RULE
Though Minangkabau society is Islamic, it’s still matrilineal. According to Minangkabau adat (traditional laws and regulations), property and wealth are passed down through the female line. Every Minangkabau belongs to his or her mother’s clan. At the basic level of the clan is the sapariouk, those matri-related kin, who eat together. These include the mother, the grandchildren and the son-in-law. The name comes from the word periouk (rice pot). The eldest living female is the matriarch. The most important male member of the household is the mother’s eldest brother, who replaces the father in being responsible for the children’s education, upbringing and marriage prospects. But consensus is at the core of the Minangkabau ruling philosophy and the division of power between the sexes is regarded as complementary – like the skin and the nail act together to form the fingertip, according to a local expression.
Batang Palupuh Nature Reserve & Around
Batang Palupuh Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE
The Batang Palupuh Nature Reserve, 16km north of Bukittinggi, is home to many orchid species, as well as the massive Rafflesia arnoldii and Amorphophallus titanium, the largest flowers on the planet – the latter endemic to Sumatra. The rafflesia blooms throughout the year, if briefly, whereas you have to be incredibly lucky to catch the Amorphophallus in bloom at all. Both flowers reek like roadkill. Local buses to Palupuh cost 8000Rp and hiring a guide to lead you to the flowers is around 100,000Rp.
The blossom of the parasitic rafflesia measures nearly a metre across and can weigh up to 11kg, while the inflorescence of Amorphophallus can extend to over 3m in circumference.
House of Rafflesia Luwak CoffeeCOFFEE PLANTATION
(%0752-700 0749, 0813 7417 8971; www.rafflesialuwakcoffee.org; Desa Batang Palupuh)
At this plantation in Batang Palupuh, friendly owner Umul Khairi is happy to explain the process of harvesting, drying and roasting kopi luwak – a smooth, earthy brew produced from coffee beans ingested and excreted by civets (cal-like mammals). While the luwak coffee industry has come under fire for ‘farming’ civets to meet demand for the brew, the House of Rafflesia still operates in the traditional way, collecting wild civet ‘poo’ off the jungle floor. You can also taste (20,000Rp) and purchase (from 200,000Rp) the beans. Book via the website or phone to confirm at least one day before you visit.
Minangkabau cooking classes (per person 350,000Rp) are also on offer. The multicourse menu includes beef rendang and chicken curry, and Umul will even run the course for solo travellers.
JoniGUIDE
(%0813 7436 0439)
Local, English-speaking, enthusiastic guide Joni is your best bet for finding the elusive rafflesia as he knows when everything is blooming and where. A morning departure from Bukittinggi is recommended to avoid the occasional influx of tour buses.
Gunung Merapi & Gunung Singgalang
Gunung MerapiVOLCANO
(admission 10,000Rp)
The smouldering summit of Gunung Merapi (2891m), Sumatra’s most active volcano, looms large over Bukittinggi around 16km to the east. If Merapi is benign, then visitors typically hike overnight to view sunrise from the summit from the village of Koto Baru; it’s a 12-hour round trip. You’ll need good walking boots, warm clothing, a torch, food and drink and a guide. Travel agencies in Bukittinggi do guided trips to Merapi for around US$40 per person (minimum two people).
Gunung SinggalangVOLCANO
(admission 10,000Rp)
Dormant Gunung Singgalang (2877m) is a more adventurous undertaking than Gunung Merapi, and it’s very difficult to find someone in Bukittinggi to guide you up. Highly recommended English-speaking guide Dedi (0813 7425 1312), based in Pandai Sikat – the best starting point for the climb – charges 200,000Rp and the climb is an eight- to nine-hour round-trip. There are campsites by the beautiful crater lake, Telago Dewi.
WORTH A TRIP
HARAU VALLEY
Heading east from Bukittinggi takes you through the tapioca-growing area of Piladang, famous for keropok (tapioca crackers), and the sprawling agricultural centre of Payakumbuh. Of Minangkabau’s three clans, this is the territory of the 50 Kota (50 Villages) yellow branch. Rice paddies with wallowing buffalo flank the narrow road that leads to the tiny village of Harau, the volcanoes looming behind them. Venture another 3km and spectacular, vertical 100m cliffs, seemingly made of painted rock, rise up to enclose the claustrophobic Harau Valley, 15km northeast of Payakumbuh and 55km from Bukittinggi.
The most direct way to reach Harau from Bukittinggi is by renting a motorbike (65,000Rp to 80,000Rp) or taking an ojek (200,000Rp, two hours). Alternatively, take a Po Sarah Group minibus from the bus terminal to Tanjung Pati (15,000Rp), and then take an ojek the rest of the way (20,000Rp).
Lemba Harau (admission 5000Rp) and other waterfalls in the valley attract daytrippers from Bukittinggi, particularly during the rainy season; if the weather’s been dry, they’re reduced to mere trickles.
Rock climbing is also a big attraction in the Harau Valley, which is the best-developed rock-climbing area in Sumatra. An excellent local contact is Ikbal (%0852 6378 1842) at the Abdi Homestay, who offers guided climbing excursions for US$25. Check out www.climbing.com and www.rockclimbing.com for blogs and more information.
oAbdi HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0852 6378 1842; ikbalharau@yahoo.com; Kab 50 Kota; per person 100,000-150,000Rp)
Run by young and energetic owners, Ikbal and Noni, Abdi Homestay is the loveliest place to stay in the Harau Valley. Eight adorable thatched bungalows (with mosquito nets and bamboo showers) sit on the edge of verdant rice paddies and lotus ponds; the pricier ones have views. Meals include one of the best chicken rendang you’ll ever have, and Ikbal leads day hikes (US$20 per person) to the top of the cliffs.
Lembah Echo HOTEL$$
(%0812 6619 1501; www.lembahecho.com; Taratang Lb Limpato; r with shared bathroom 90,000Rp, r incl breakfast 150,000-600,000Rp)
Sitting right under the cliffs in the narrowest part of the valley is Lembah Echo, its beautiful grounds encroached on by jungle full of monkeys. Lodgings range from very basic thatched huts that are verging on decrepit to the Minangkabau-style cottages and stylish (if dark) rooms with hardwood furniture and hot showers. Little English spoken and staff can be unhelpful.
Danau Maninjau
%0752
The first glimpse of this perfectly formed volcanic lake sucks your breath away as you lurch over the caldera lip and hurtle towards the first of the 44 hairpin bends down (yep, they’re numbered) to the lakeshore. Monkeys watch your progress from the crash barriers as the road takes you down from the lush rainforest of the highlands to the ever-expanding farms and paddies of the lowlands.
When the traveller tide receded from Bukittinggi, Danau Maninjau was left high and dry. The locals looked to more sustainable sources of income and aquaculture to fill the void. Fish farms now dot the lake foreshore.
Ground zero is the intersection where the Bukittinggi highway meets the lake road in the middle of Maninjau village. Turn left or right and drive 60km and you’ll end up back here. The lake is 17km long, 8km wide and 460m above sea level. Most places of interest spread out north along the road to Bayur (3.5km) and beyond. If coming by bus, tell the conductor where you’re staying and you’ll be dropped off at the right spot.
Danau Maninjau
1Sights & Activities
Swimming and canoeing in the lake (warmed by subterranean springs) are still the main draw cards but there are plenty of other options.
The caldera, covered in rainforest that hides waterfalls and traditional villages, is a hiker’s dream. Hike to the rim from Bayur, or cheat by catching the bus up the hill to Matur, then walking back down via the lookout at Puncak Lawang. Check out the map at Beach Guest House for more good trekking information.
If you want to zip around the lake on a moped that takes roughly three hours. Beach Guest House organises both guided hikes and motorbike tours.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
SCENIC ROUTE TO DANAU MANINJAU
If you have your own wheels, take the quiet road used by locals that zigzags picturesquely through the Sianok Canyon, passing through quiet villages and meandering around jungle-thick corners. Pause at the first bridge you come to for an excellent view of the pointed, greenery-clad Taruko karst that looms above the river. Detour along the unpaved road to the namesake restaurant with a tremendous view of it. The road eventually joins the main road down to Danau Maninjau, so you don’t miss any of the hairpin bends!
zFestivals & Events
Rakik RakikCULTURAL
Rakik Rakik is celebrated on the night before Idul Fitri (the end of Ramadan) by building a platform to hold a replica Minangkabau house and mosque. The offering is then floated out onto the lake on canoes, accompanied by fireworks and revelry.
4Sleeping
The majority of Maninjau options front onto aquaculture. There is a sprinkling of hotels, cheap losmen and restaurants between Maninjau and Bayur. Outside Maninjau village, most losmen are reached by walking along rice-paddy paths, so look for the sign by the roadside.
oBeach Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-861799, 0813 6379 7005; www.beachguesthousemaninjau.com; Jl Raya Maninjau; dm 40,000, r 75,000-150,000; W)
Run by a friendly, energetic local couple, this is Danau Maninjau’s bona fide traveller central. Owners organise excursions, from round-the-lake bicycle or motorbike jaunts to hiking the caldera (seven hours). As for the digs, choose between bunking in the dorm or a range of rooms, the plushest lined up on the lakefront and boasting hot showers.
Muaro Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3924 0042, 0752-61189; neni967@yahoo.com; Jl Muaro Pisang 53, Maninjau; r 80,000-120,000Rp; W)
Down a maze of footpaths (about 300m northwest of the main intersection), these beachfront bungalows are the best value in Maninjau. The beach is (almost) free of aquaculture and fish farming, and there’s a good restaurant that’s also open to nonguests. Local tours and activities are on offer.
Arlen Nova’s ParadiseBUNGALOW$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 7475 9288; www.nova-maninjau.id.or.id; Sungai-Rangeh; r 175,000Rp)
Walk through rice paddies (5.5km north of Maninjau) to these five simple bungalows, draped in passionfruit vines on a private beach, with nary a fish pond in sight. The setting is gorgeous and a plethora of friendly cats hang out at the on-site restaurant, but the lodgings could use some TLC.
House of AnnisaHISTORIC HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0857 6604 1558; Jl H Udin Rahmani, Maninjau; r 280,000Rp)
This wonderful heritage Dutch villa has been lovingly restored by the great-grandchildren of the original owners. There are only three romantic rooms, one with a brass four-poster bed festooned with mirrors; bathrooms are shared. Unique touches include elegant Arabic calligraphy carved into the outside walls and a gorgeous balcony filled with antique benches and chairs. Call in advance.
5Eating
Most of the guesthouses serve the usual standards such as nasi goreng and mie goreng, some Western favourites and freshly caught fish.
Bagoes CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Maninjau; mains 20,000-30,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; Wv)
This traveller favourite, attached to Beach House in the north part of Maninjau village, combines backpacker staples with local dishes such as vegetable gado gado and mie goreng. Waves lap at the deck and movie nights, accompanied by ice-cold Bintang, take place among the quirky wall art.
Waterfront ZalinoINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0815 3541 1074; mains 30,000-85,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
A great lakeside location showcases some exotic local specialities like dendeng kijang balado (fried deer with chilli and red pepper), udang (freshwater lake shrimp ) and grilled catfish. If you’re keen to go trekking, ask if Zal – AKA ‘Mr Porcupine’ – is around. Waterfront Zalino is in Gasang, around 1km north of Maninjau’s main intersection.
8Information
BRI BankBANK
( GOOGLE MAP )
Has an ATM, but it only dispenses small amounts. Stock up on rupiah in Bukittinggi.
PT Kesuma Tour & TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-61422, 0812 669 9661; www.sumatratravelling.com; Jl Panurunan Air Hangat)
Arranges transfers to Bukittinggii and jungle treks. Also rents outdoor equipment.
8Getting There & Around
Buses run hourly between Maninjau and Bukittinggi (20,000Rp, 1¾ hours). Taxis from Bukittinggi start from 160,000Rp.
Rent mountain bikes (per day 45,000Rp), motorcycles (per day 100,000Rp) and canoes (per day 40,000Rp) from PT Kesuma Tour & Travel or Waterfront Zalino.
Minibuses (3000Rp) travel the lake road during daylight hours. An ojek from the intersection to Bayur will cost around 10,000Rp.
Kerinci Valley
%0748 / Pop 253,000
Kerinci is a stunning mountain valley tucked away high in the Bukit Barisan on Jambi’s western border. Many of the cool, lush forests are protected as the Kerinci Seblat National Park, the last stronghold of the Sumatran tiger. The valley’s many lakes and jungle-shrouded mountains make it a big draw for hikers in search of off-the-beaten-track adventure. To the south is picturesque Danau Kerinci and a patchwork of rich farmland. Tea and cinnamon account for much of the valley’s wealth, with the former ringing the higher villages and the latter forming a buffer between the farmland and rainforest.
Minangkabau and native Kerincinese make up most of the population, with a sprinkling of Batak and Javanese who are drawn by the rich soil. Kerinci is in Jambi province but has a close geographic proximity to Padang.
8Getting There & Away
Safa Marwa (%0748-22376; Jl Yos Sudarso (Jl Baru) 20) in Sungai Penuh is one of several companies that organises onward travel in buses and shared minibuses. If you’re leaving Kersik Tua for Padang or Bukittinggi, buses can usually pick up en route from Sungai Penuh if your guesthouse books you passage in advance.
BUSES FROM KERINCI VALLEY
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bengkulu | 150,000 | 10-12 | daily at 10am |
| Bukittinggi | 130,000 | 10 | daily at 7pm |
| Jambi | 120,000-150,000 | 10 | daily at 9am, 7pm |
| Padang | 100,000-130,000 | 8 | daily at 9am, 7pm |
8Getting Around
Most places in the valley are accessible by the white minibuses that leave the terminal and surrounding area near the market. Sample destinations and fares include Danau Kerinci (15,000Rp, 1½ hours), Kersik Tua (10,000Rp, one hour) and Pelompek (15,000Rp, 1½hours).
Sungai Penuh
Sungai Penuh (Full River) is the regional administrative centre and transport hub for the valley. There is a lively market and reliable internet, and the town makes an excellent base for ventures into the wilds of Kerinci Seblat National Park and surrounding villages.
1Sights
Mesjid Agung Pondok TinggiMOSQUE
(admission by donation )
Head west up Jl Sudirman (past the post office) and turn left, where you’ll find this old wooden mosque with its pagoda-style roof. Built in 1874 without a single nail, the interior contains elaborately carved beams and old, Dutch tiles. Ask the caretaker for permission and cover up.
TTours
Wild Sumatra AdventuresCULTURAL TOUR
(%0812 6017 3651; www.wildsumatra.com; Lake Kaco hike for 2 people 1,400,000Rp, 3-day Mount Tujuh adventure for 2 people 4,500,000Rp)
Based in Sungai Penuh, enthusiastic expat Luke Mackin is a passionate and knowledgeable local contact for information on the surrounding area, especially the Kerinci Seblat National Park. He has numerous alliances with local trekking guides and villages, is keen to introduce travellers to the area’s many attractions and can organise guides and transport to all attractions described.
4Sleeping
Budget accommodation in Sungai Penuh tends to be fairly grim. If you’re looking for greater cultural immersion, Wild Sumatra Adventures can help you organise homestays in villages surrounding Sungai Penuh. Expect to pay around 50,000Rp per night to stay with a local family.
Hotel YaniHOTEL$
(%0748-21409; Jl Muradi 1; r 80,000-250,000; a)
The pick of Sungai Penuh’s cheapies has a barrack vibe, water stains on the walls, cold bucket showers and narrow, short beds most suitable. Central location but no breakfast.
oHotel KerinciHOTEL$$
(%0748-324459; Jl Muradi 28; r 120,000-425,000Rp; aW)
By far the snazziest option in Sungai Penuh, this new and fairly central hotel consists of spotless and almost identical, business-hotel-style rooms, each with a funky purple wall and modern bathroom, with the exception of the cheapies (120,000Rp that share facilities). The suites are the largest, but otherwise the price depends on whether the room has air-con or fan.
Hotel Jaya WisataHOTEL$$
(%0748-21221; Jl Martadinata 7; r incl breakfast 170,000-680,000Rp; aW)
Your options here range from rather depressing cold-water rooms downstairs that could seriously use a coat of paint, to more spacious and stylish rooms upstairs. The location is great – near the cheap eats of the night market.
5Eating & Drinking
Kerinci is known for the local speciality of dendeng batokok (charcoal-grilled strips of pounded beef). Street stalls pop up in the evening along Jl Teuku Umar, a block from the square, and along main Jl Muradi.
Pasar MalamMARKET$
(off Jl Muradi; meals from 20,000Rp; h5-10pm)
The centrally located pasar malam (night market) is a terrific place to try local specialities, such as martabak mesir (square pancake filled with meat and vegetables), mie bakso (noodle soup with meatballs), martabak (sweet pancake filled with coconut or banana) and sate with a red gravy rather than peanut sauce.
Koi Taste CafeINTERNATIONAL$
(Jl Muradi; mains 11,000-25,000Rp; h4-10pm)
This friendly new place along the main street en route to Danau Kerinci is decked out with Che Guevara posters, has low Indo-style seating and an eclectic menu. Many dishes are variations on mie goreng and nasi goreng, but you’ll also find the more ambitious buffalo wings, tom yum soup and chicken teriyaki.
Minang SotoINDONESIAN$
(Jl Muradi; dishes from 12,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
At this busy Padang-style eatery you’re presented with scores of small, spicy dishes, such as the earthy rendang (beef coconut curry) and ayam (chicken) sambal. You’re only supposed to pay for the dishes you sample from.
Q2 CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
(mains 15,000-45,000Rp; h9am-10pm)
Worth a short ride from the centre, this ambitious outdoorsy restaurant mixes it up with numerous lele (catfish) dishes, as well as the tasty mie claypot and even Chicken Gordon [sic] Bleu. Splurge on the tom yum lobster and wash it down with such concoctions as Fruit My Love, cappuccino float and Moon Rever.
Wiyuka CoffeeCOFFEE
(Jl Kamaruddin; h9am-7pm; W)
Excellent new coffee shop giving Sungai Penuh a cosmopolitan touch. You can sample quality beans from all over Sumatra and beyond, and there’s even free wi-fi. Traveller hangout potential.
8Information
BNI BankBANK
(Jl Ahmad Yani)
The centrally located BNI Bank ATM dispenses up to 2,000,000Rp.
Kantor Taman Nasional Kerinci SeblatPARK OFFICE
(Kerinci Seblat National Park Office, TNKS; %0748-22250; Jl Basuki Rahmat 11)
The park headquarters sells permits; they never seem to answer the phone, so just turn up. If it’s closed, you can get permits from losmen in Kersik Tua.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
(Jl Sudirman 1; h8am-4pm)
Main post office.
Kersik Tua
At 1500m, surrounded by tea plantations and dominated by the massive cone of Gunung Kerinci (3805m), Kersik Tua makes a pleasant base for scaling the imposing volcano.
The town sprawls along one side of the main road, with tea plantations and the mountain on the other. The national park turn-off is indicated by a harimau (Sumatran tiger) statue.
Trekking gear, supplies, guides and transport can all be arranged here. There’s a market on Saturday and a BNI Bank ATM. The village is 52km north of Sungai Penuh on the road to Padang and can be reached by any Padang–Kerinci bus. Minibuses (10,000Rp, 1½ hours) trundle north from Sungai Penuh to Kersik Tua between 8am and 5pm and north from Kersik Tua to Pelompek (5000Rp), 8km away.
There are several basic homestays, spread out along the main road. Just south of the statue on the main road is Subandi Homestay (%0748-357 009, 0812 7411 4273; subandi.homestay@gmail.com; r 150,000Rp), the best base camp in the village. Subandi is the only English-speaking homestay owner and a fount of local knowledge who can organise mountain, jungle and wildlife treks of varying difficulty and duration.
The southernmost option in Kersik Tua, Family Homestay (%0852 6626 6992, 0748-357080; r 150,000Rp), is uphill next to the tea plantation and then left along the football field. It offers cosy carpeted rooms and hot water on request. Alternatively, Homestay Paiman (%0748-357 030; r 75,000Rp), 200m south of Subandi Homestay, is your fallback option. It’s a friendly place, but the beds are so ancient they’re hammock-shaped.
Pelompek
The small village of Pelompek, 8km north of Kersik Tua, makes a good base for a night or two if you’re looking to climb Gunung Tajuh. Homestay Gunung Tujuh (%0852 724 5940; r 150,000Rp) is the only place to stay in the village. Overlooking the market and a block away from the main street, its rooms are spacious, with Indonesian bucket showers, and the proprietress fusses over her guests like a mother hen in spite of the language barrier.
Buses pass along the main street fairly regularly to Kersik Tua (5000Rp) and Sungai Penuh (15,000Rp).
ORANG PENDEK
Every culture that has lived among trees tells stories about elusive creatures that straddle myth and reality. Tales about leprechauns, fairies and even Sasquatch have existed for so long that it is impossible to determine which came first: the spotting or the story. The Indonesian version of these myth makers is the orang pendek, which has been occasionally spotted but more frequently talked about in the Kerinci forests for generations.
Villagers who claim to have seen orang pendek describe the creature as being about 1m tall, more ape than human, but walking upright on the ground. The creature’s reclusive habits made it a celebrity in local mythology. Common folk stories say that the orang pendek has feet that face backwards so that it can’t be tracked through the forest or that it belongs to the supernatural not the world of flesh and blood. Others say that the first-hand accounts were only spottings of sun bears.
Scientists have joined the conversation by tramping through the forest hoping to document the existence of orang pendek. British researchers succeeded in making a plaster cast of an animal footprint that fits the orang pendek description and doesn’t match any other known primate. Hair samples with no other documented matches have also led researchers to believe that there is merit to the local lore. Two members of Fauna & Flora International, a British-based research team, even reported separate sightings, but were unable to collect conclusive evidence. Researchers sponsored by the National Geographic Society have resumed the search by placing motion-sensitive cameras in strategic spots in the jungle. So little is known about this region and so many areas are so remote that researchers are hopeful that the orang pendek will eventually wander into the frame.
If nothing else, the orang pendek helps illuminate aspects of Sumatrans’ linguistic and cultural relationship with the jungle. Bahasa Indonesia makes little distinction between man and ape; for example, ‘orang-utan’ (forest man) or ‘orang rimba’ (‘people of the forest,’ the preferred term for the Kubu tribe) may reflect a perceived blood tie between forest dwellers. This imprecision is often used for comic effect. A common joke is that the orang pendek (which means ‘short man’) does indeed exist, followed by the punch line that the shortest person in the room is the missing link.
Kerinci Seblat National Park
The largest national park in Sumatra, Kerinci Seblat National Park (Taman Nasional Kerinci Seblat; TNKS), covers a 350km swathe of the Bukit Barisan range and protects 13,791 sq km of prime equatorial rainforest spread over four provinces, with almost 40% of the park falling within Jambi’s boundaries.
Most of the protected area is dense rainforest, and its inaccessibility is the very reason the park is one of the last strongholds of the endangered harimau (Sumatran tiger). Kerinci Seblat National Park is known as having the highest population and occurrence of tigers anywhere in Sumatra, with 80% of the park showing signs of the species.
Because of the great elevation range within the park, Kerinci has a unique diversity of flora and fauna. Edelweiss and other high-altitude flowers grow in the forest. Lower altitudes bring pitcher plants, orchids, rafflesia and the giant Amorphophallus.
As with many of Sumatra’s protected areas, encroachment by farmers, illegal logging and poaching are all serious issues for Kerinci, the latter dramatically on the rise in 2014. The park wardens are a passionate and dedicated lot, and they do stop a lot of the poaching, but greater numbers and more funds are desperately needed. The plight of the Sumatran tiger has recently been highlighted by Sir David Attenborough as part of Fauna & Flora International’s Tiger Project (www.fauna-flora.org), aimed at saving the Sumatran tiger from extinction.
Kerinci Seblat National Park sees relatively few visitors, and the park’s minimal tourist infrastructure is limited to the north around the dual attractions of Gunung Kerinci and Gunung Tujuh. While the park’s northern region is more visited, the southern area features elephants – absent in the north – and also has interesting forest-edge communities living within the park’s boundaries, as well as excellent trekking through pristine forests. Contact Luke Mackin of Wild Sumatra Adventures in Sungai Penuh if you’re keen to explore the park’s southern reaches by organising guides and treks. There are buffer areas for local cultivation and agriculture at the northern and southern edges of the park.
Permits and guides are required to enter the park. Both can be arranged at the park office in Sungai Penuh or through your losmen. There’s a park office at the entrance to Danau Gunung Tujuh, but it’s rarely staffed.
Permits cost 150,000Rp, guide rates are around 350,000Rp per day for an English-speaking guide, and porters can be hired for 150,000Rp to 200,000Rp per day. Be sure to clarify exactly what the rate entails, as camping gear, food and transport may be considered additional costs.
Kerinci’s climate is temperate, and downright cold as you gain altitude. Bring warm clothes and rain gear.
1Sights & Activities
oGunung KerinciVOLCANO
Dominating the northern end of the park is Gunung Kerinci (3805m), Southeast Asia’s tallest volcano and one of Sumatra’s most active. On clear days the summit offers fantastic views of Danau Gunung Tujuh and the surrounding valleys and mountains.
Summit treks usually start from the national park entrance, 5km from Kersik Tua, and tackle the mountain over two days, camping overnight. A fully guided trip with food, permits, transport and all gear thrown in costs around 1,500,000Rp. Fully self-sufficient parties needing a guide will only pay around 700,000Rp.
The highest camp site, at 3400m, is normally reached after six hours. The following morning, allow an hour in the predawn to reach the summit by sunrise. The path is very steep and eroded, and above the treeline the scree is extremely slippery. A guide is mandatory and you’ll need full camping gear, warm and waterproof clothes, and head torch (all of which can be hired in Kersik Tua). Nights are freezing. Do not attempt the climb in wet weather.
Botanists and twitchers from around the world come for the rare flora and fauna, such as Javanese edelweiss, Schneider’s pitta and the crested wood partridge. Nepthenes (pitcher plants), squirrels, geckos and long-tailed macaques can be found in the lower forest, and troops of yellow-handed mitered langurs are also seen.
While the park does have a significant tiger population, spying one in the wild is very rare, and sightings are usually restricted to paw prints and droppings. In previous centuries, local Kerinci people were thought to be weretigers (a shape-shifting synthesis of man and beast), and the tiger is still important in local mysticism and mythology.
Danau Gunung TujuhLAKE
(Seven Mountain Lake)
At 1996m, the beautiful caldera of Danau Gunung Tujuh is the highest in Southeast Asia and makes for a pleasant day ascent or part of a multiday trek. It takes 3½ hours to climb to the lake from the park entrance, which is 2km from the village of Pelompek. Camp near the lake if staying overnight. An ojek to the trailhead costs around 10,000Rp. Subandi Homestay in Kersik Tua can organise two- or three-day treks, including a canoe crossing.
Wildlife in this area includes tapirs and Siamang gibbons, and one of the signature sounds of the Kerinci forests is the hooting and howling call of the gibbon.
Pelompek is 8km north of Kersik Tua (bus 10,000Rp) and 60km from Sungai Penuh (15,000Rp). You’ll need a park permit; if the park office is closed, ask next door at the tiny Losmen Pak Edes (r 70,000Rp), which also has two very basic rooms and can arrange guides.
Danau KacoLAKE
(Glass Lake)
A two- to three-hour ramble through the jungle along a largely flat (and muddy) path, Danau Kaco stops you dead in your tracks because you just can’t believe the sight of this small, sapphire-coloured swimming hole, with incredible visibility down its 20m depths. The trail starts near the village of Lempur, an hour’s drive from Sungai Penuh.
Danau KerinciLAKE
Danau Kerinci, 20km south of Sungai Penuh, is a sizeable lake nestled between Gunung Raya (2535m) and rice paddies. Stone carvings around the lake suggest that the area supported a sizeable population in megalithic times. Batu Gong (Gong Stone), in the village of Muak, 25km from Sungai Penuh, is thought to have been carved 2000 years ago. To reach the lake, catch a public bus from Sungai Penuh to Sanggaran Agung (13,000Rp). The last return bus leaves around 4pm.
There is an annual festival held in July on the shores of the lake, with traditional Kerinci dance and music.
Gunung KunyitVOLCANO
Visited by a fraction of hikers who take on its more famous neighbour, this active volcano, at the southern end of the Kerinci Valley, presents a wonderful challenge. It’s a six-hour hike to the summit through cloud forest from the village of Talang Kumuning, passing sulphur vents en route. You can also look for the hot spring within the crater.
Goa KasahCAVE
Considered to be the largest cave system in the Kerinci Valley, and not yet fully explored, this cave makes for a good day trek (around 2½ hours one way) from the village of Sungai Sampun. The hike isn’t very strenuous, and runs largely through picturesque rice fields before ascending some forested foothills.
Air Terjun Telun BerasapWATERFALL
Impressive waterfalls dot the whole valley. The easiest to find are the Air Terjun Telun Berasap in the ‘Letter W’ village 4km north of Pelompek. Look for the ‘Air Terjun Telun Berasap’ sign then walk 300m to a deep, fern-lined ravine where a thunderous torrent of water crashes onto rocks below.
More impressive falls include the 75m-tall Pancuran Rayo, reachable via a half-hour drive south and then a three-hour hike from Sungai Penuh.
Night SafariSAFARI
Easily doable from Sungai Penuh, the night safari involves driving a stretch of the winding southbound road that passes through the Kerinci Seblat National Park after dark, looking for wildlife in the trees and undergrowth with torches. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot civets, owls and even the odd tiger. Walking is not advisable, lest you become a cat’s dinner.
Renah KemumuHIKING
This is an excellent jungle trek to the remote village of Renah Kemumu that sits in the jungle within the boundaries of the national park. It takes around 12 to 15 hours one way, to the accompaniment of Siamang gibbon calls, with plenty of bird sightings and potential large mammal sightings en route.
Hot SpringsHOT SPRING
The volcanic legacy of the valley is evident in its many hot springs. These range from the semi-grotty Air Panas near the village of Semurup (11km north of Sungai Penuh), hugely popular with locals; Air Panas Situs 2 across the valley is in a more natural setting. More impressive still is Grao Sakti, near the forest village of Renah Kemumu.