Sulawesi

Pop 18.8 million

Why Go?

If you think Sulawesi's geography looks fantastic on the map, just wait until you see it for real. The massive island’s multilimbed coastline is drawn with sandy beaches that fringe coral reefs and a mind-boggling variety of fish. Meanwhile, its interior is shaded by impenetrable mountains and jungles that are thick with wildlife, such as rare nocturnal tarsiers and flamboyantly colourful maleo birds. Cultures have been able to independently evolve here, cut off from the rest of the world by the dramatic topography. Meet the Toraja highlanders, with their elaborate funeral ceremonies in which buffaloes are sacrificed and balok (palm sugar wine) flows freely; the Minahasans in the far north, who offer spicy dishes of everything from stewed forest rat to grilled fish; and the Bugis, who are mainly found inhabiting Sulawesi's coastal regions and are Indonesia’s most famous seafarers.

When to Go

AApr–Oct It's peak season for scuba diving, with calm seas and incredible visibility.

ANov–Mar Lembeh Strait critters tend to come out of the muck more in the wet season.

AJun–Aug The best months to experience Tana Toraja's biggest funeral ceremonies.

Best Places to Eat

A Lae Lae

A Raja Sate

A Lesehan Jetpur

A Rumah Makan Green Garden

Best Places to Stay

A Living Colours

A Hoga Island Dive Resort

A Ge Jac Mart

A Cosmos Bungalows

A Pia’s Poppies Hotel

Sulawesi Highlights

1 Snorkelling or diving along unbelievably rich coral drop-offs – some of Asia’s best – around chilled-out Pulau Bunaken.

2 Witnessing the ritual and tradition of an elaborate funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja.

3 Finding barefoot bliss in the off-grid, paradisaical Togean Islands.

4 Hiking, cycling and birdwatching in the stunning volcanic region around Tomohon.

5 Spotting sprightly tarsiers, black macaques and a bevy of birds at Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve.

6 Walking the beaches, diving the waters and exploring the diverse countryside around Pantai Bira.

7 Seeking out one of Jacques Cousteau's favourite diving haunts: the rarely visited Tukangbesi Islands.

History

The interior of Sulawesi provided a refuge for some of Indonesia’s earliest inhabitants, some of whom preserved elements of their rich cultures well into the 20th century. The Makassarese and Bugis of the southwestern peninsula and the Christian Minahasans of the far north are the dominant groups in Sulawesi. The unique traditions, architecture and ceremonies of the Toraja people make the interior of South Sulawesi a deservedly popular destination.

Other minorities, particularly Bajau sea nomads, have played an integral role in the island’s history. The rise of the kingdom of Gowa – Sulawesi’s first major power – from the mid-16th century was partly due to its trading alliance with the Bajau. The Bajau supplied valuable sea produce, especially the Chinese delicacy trepang (sea cucumber), tortoiseshell, birds’ nests and pearls, which attracted international traders to Gowa’s capital, Makassar.

Makassar quickly became known as a cosmopolitan, tolerant and secure entrepôt that allowed traders to bypass the Dutch monopoly over the spice trade in the east – a considerable concern to the Dutch. In 1660 the Dutch sunk six Portuguese ships in Makassar harbour, captured the fort and in 1667 forced Gowa’s ruler, Sultan Hasanuddin, into an alliance. Eventually, the Dutch managed to exclude all other foreign traders from Makassar, effectively shutting down the port.

Indonesia won its independence from the Dutch in 1945, but ongoing civil strife hampered Sulawesi’s attempts at post-WWII reconstruction until well into the 1960s. A period of uninterrupted peace delivered unprecedented and accelerating development, particularly evident in the ever-growing Makassar metropolis.

Tragically, the Poso region in Central Sulawesi fell into a cycle of intercommunal violence in 1998, though things have calmed down considerably since. Since 2013 the development of the Trans-Sulawesi highway and the upgrading of several regional airports have improved the island's transport connections, boosting trade and tourism.

THE WALLACE LINE

Detailed surveys of Borneo and Sulawesi in the 1850s by English naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace resulted in some inspired correspondence with Charles Darwin. Wallace was struck by the marked differences in wildlife, despite the two islands’ proximity and similarities in climate and geography. His letters to Darwin, detailing evidence of his theory that the Indonesian archipelago was inhabited by one distinct fauna in the east and one in the west, prompted Darwin to publish similar observations from his own travels. The subsequent debate on species distribution and evolution transformed modern thought.

Wallace refined his theory in 1859, drawing a boundary between the two regions of fauna. The Wallace Line, as it became known, divided Sulawesi and Lombok to the east, and Borneo and Bali to the west. He believed that islands to the west of the line had once been part of Asia, and those to the east had been linked to a Pacific–Australian continent. Sulawesi’s wildlife was so unusual that Wallace suspected it was once part of both, a fact that geologists have since proven to be true.

Other analyses of where Australian-type fauna begin to outnumber Asian fauna have placed the line further east. Lydekker’s Line, which lies east of Maluku and Timor, is generally accepted as the western boundary of strictly Australian fauna, while Wallace Line marks the eastern boundary of Asian fauna.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Domestic

The two main transport hubs are Makassar and Manado, which are well connected with the rest of Indonesia. Palu is the third most important airport. In recent years Gorontalo, Luwuk, Poso and Kendari have all seen an increase in air traffic; minor airports at towns such as Ampana, Selayar and Naha (Sangihe-Talaud Islands) also provide useful links for travellers.

There are direct flights to Java, Bali, Kalimantan, Maluku and Papua. Lion Air, Garuda Indonesia, Wings Air, Batik Air, Citilink, XpressAir, Sriwijaya Air are the main carriers.

International

Silk Air flies between Manado and Singapore four days per week for around US$210 (one way). Air Asia flies from Makassar to Kuala Lumpur from US$80.

Boat

Sulawesi is well connected, with around half the Pelni ferry fleet calling at Makassar, Bitung (the seaport for Manado), Pare Pare and Toli-Toli, as well as a few other minor towns. Some of the more important boats that stop at Makassar and/or Bitung (for Manado) include the following:

Boat	Destinations
Bukit Siguntang	East Kalimantan, Nusa Tenggara
Ciremai	Maluku, Papua, Java
Kelimutu	Java, Bali, Nusa Tenggara, Maluku
Kerinci	East Kalimantan
Labobar	Java, Papua
Lambelu	Java, Maluku, Northern Maluku
Sirimau	Nusa Tenggara, Java, East Kalimantan
Tilongkabila	Nusa Tenggara, Bali

8Getting Around

Air

Wings Air, Garuda Indonesia, XpressAir, Batik Air, Aviastar and Sriwijaya Air are the main carriers for getting around Sulawesi.

Boat

With the proliferation of affordable flights in Sulawesi, very few travellers now use Pelni ferries. However there are some useful links from Makassar to Malaku and Kalimantan and from Bitung in the north.

The Tilongkabila ferry sails every two weeks from Makassar to Bau Bau, Raha and Kendari, up to Kolonedale, Luwuk, Gorontalo and Bitung and returns the same way to Makassar.

Elsewhere along the coast creaky old ferries and wooden boats run to destinations including the Togean Islands. Speedboats are occasionally available for charter. Around the southeastern peninsula, the kapal cepat (fast boats) and the ‘superjet’ are the way to go.

Bus, Bemo and Kijang

Excellent air-conditioned buses connect Rantepao with Makassar. Elsewhere you're looking at pretty clapped-out local buses that stop every few minutes. There are some decent long-distance bemo (minibus) services, particularly on the road across Central Sulawesi connecting Luwuk and Palu.

Shared Kijang (a type of taxi) are also common; these are quicker than buses, and cost a bit more, but aren't necessarily more comfortable.

In towns, minibuses called mikrolet or pete-pete are the main mode of transport for locals.

ROAD TRIPS

The road network in Sulawesi has improved in recent years, and there's now (in theory) a 'Trans-Sulawesi Highway' connecting Makassar with Manado. However, it's not really a highway in the Western sense; it consists mostly of a two-laned paved road that passes through towns, over innumerable mountain ranges and is affected by landslides during heavy rains. It's very slow-going: expect to average no more than 35kph most of the time.

Roads around Makassar and the southwestern peninsula, and around Manado and the northeastern peninsula are in reasonable shape, though heavy traffic inevitably means slow journey times. A new toll road connecting Manado and Bitung is partially built. Road links have also been upgraded between Rantepao and Ampana. There's an excellent new road along the west coast between Watampone and Bulukumba.

Many travellers club together and hire a car and a driver to speed up travel in Sulawesi. The Rantepao–Ampana stretch (510km), which takes a minimum of two days, is a popular route.

South Sulawesi

South Sulawesi is huge. Makassar in the far south is the capital of the island and is fittingly tumultuous yet friendly. Stop here for a day or two to feast on some of the best seafood on the island. From Makassar consider heading southeast to sleepy Pantai Bira, which has world-class diving and fine sandy beaches, or do what most people do and go directly to Tana Toraja.

The spectacular Toraja highlands should not be missed: a dizzying blend of mountains carved with rice paddies, outlandish funeral ceremonies involving animal sacrifices and some of the most fantastical local-style architecture in Asia. En route from Makassar you’ll pass coastal salt farms and inland coffee, cotton and sugarcane plantations.

The estimated eight million or so inhabitants include the Bugis (who make up two-thirds of the population), the Makassarese (a quarter) and the Toraja. The Bugis and Makassarese are both seafaring people, who for centuries were active in trade, sailing to Flores, Timor and Sumba, and even as far afield as the northern coast of Australia. Islam is the dominant religion, except in Toraja, but all cultures retain vestiges of traditional beliefs.

History

The dominant powers in the south were long the Makassarese kingdom of Gowa (around the port of Makassar) and the Bugis kingdom of Bone. By the mid-16th century, Gowa had established itself at the head of a major trading bloc in eastern Indonesia. The king of Gowa adopted Islam in 1605 and Bone was soon subdued, spreading Islam to the whole Bugis–Makassarese area.

The Dutch United East India Company found Gowa a considerable hindrance to its plans to monopolise the spice trade until a deal was struck with the exiled Bugis prince Arung Palakka. The Dutch sponsored Palakka’s return to Bone in 1666, prompting Bone to rise against the Makassarese. A year of fighting ensued and Sultan Hasanuddin of Gowa was forced to sign the Treaty of Bungaya in 1667, which severely reduced Gowa’s power. Bone, under Palakka, then became the supreme state of South Sulawesi.

Rivalry between Bone and the other Bugis states continually reshaped the political landscape. After their brief absence during the Napoleonic Wars, the Dutch returned to a Bugis revolt led by the queen of Bone. This was suppressed, but rebellions continued until Makassarese and Bugis resistance was finally broken in the early years of the 20th century. Unrest lingered on until the early 1930s, and revolts against the central Indonesian government occurred again in the 1950s

The Makassarese and Bugis are staunchly Islamic and independently minded. Makassar and Pare Pare are still the first to protest when the political or economic situation is uncertain.

Today a period of prosperity has brought stability, however, and Makassar's importance continues to grow as eastern Indonesia's foremost city.

Makassar

%0411 / Pop 1.71 million

The gritty metropolis of Makassar is one of the nation's greatest ports. It's a seething maelstrom of commerce and shipping, with a polyglot population of Makassarese, Bugis and Chinese residents. But as the city has few sights, and the tropical heat and pollution is pretty unremitting, few travellers stay more than a night or two.

Makassar was the gateway to eastern Indonesia for centuries, and it was from here that the Dutch controlled much of the trade that passed between the West and the East. You can investigate the city's historical core, which retains considerable colonial charm, around Fort Rotterdam, which includes the remains of an ancient Gowanese fort and some striking Dutch buildings.

The locals are a hospitable and sociable bunch: mix with them in the city's famous seafood warung (food stalls) or join them for a stroll along Pantai Losari. This kilometre-long promenade stretches south to the 'floating mosque' Masjid Amirul Mukminin. It's a good place to catch some sea air and mingle with snacking families.

The city is expanding with new suburbs in every direction. Tanjung Bunga looms to the southwest of the city and may become the centre one day, while Panukkukang to the east is chock-a-block with mighty, modern shopping malls.

Makassar

1Top Sights

1Fort RotterdamA3

1Sights

2Masjid Amirul MukmininB6

Museum Negeri La GaligoA3

4Sleeping

3Asoka HomestayB6

4Aston MakassarB4

5Favehotel Daeng TompoB4

6Ge Jac MartB6

7Hotel YasminB3

8Makassar Breeze Place ResidenceD6

9New Legend HotelB3

10Novotel Makassar Grand ShaylaC4

11Santika HotelB5

5Eating

12BistropolisB4

13Fish WarungsA3

14Kampoeng PopsaA3

15Lae LaeB5

16RM NelayanB5

17Rumah Makan Pate'neB2

18SentosaA4

6Drinking & Nightlife

19Ballairate Sunset BarA4

20Kafe KarebaA4

21Kios SemarangA4

22LevelB6

23Zona CafeA3

3Entertainment

Studio 21D7

7Shopping

24Makassar MallC2

25Ratu Indah MallD7

1Sights

oFort RotterdamHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan; h8am-6pm)F

One of the best-preserved examples of Dutch architecture in Indonesia, Fort Rotterdam continues to guard the harbour of Makassar. A Gowanese fort dating back to 1545 once stood here, but failed to keep out the Dutch. The original fort was rebuilt in Dutch style, and includes many fine, well-restored colonial structures. You can walk the enclave's ramparts and see sections of the original walls.

Inside you'll find the Museum Negeri La Galigo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan, Fort Rotterdam; admission Rp10,000; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun), the collection of which is divided between two buildings.

The museum has an assortment of exhibits, including sailing boats, rice bowls from Tana Toraja, kitchen tools, musical instruments and ethnic costumes.

Pelabuhan PaoterePORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Paotere Harbour; admission 5000Rp)

Pelabuhan Paotere, 4km north of the city centre, is a large port where Bugis sailing ships berth. There's usually lots of activity on the dock and in the huge fish market a few streets south, which is one of Indonesia's biggest. Pelabuhan Paotere is one of the most atmospheric parts of the city from dawn until mid-morning, when giant tuna and every sea creature imaginable are traded.

Masjid Amirul MukmininMOSQUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan)F

Rising above the sea at the southern end of Pantai Losari, this elegant twin-domed structure (constructed using concrete piles driven into the seabed) is known as the 'floating mosque'. Visitors of all faiths are welcome. Built in 2009 it enjoys fine coastal views, and the landscaped area around the mosque is the place to break the daily fast during Ramadan.

Benteng SungguminasaFORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim; h8am-4pm)F

This ancient fort, once the seat of the Sultan of Gowa, is 12km south of Makassar town centre at Sungguminasa. The complex here includes examples of traditional Sulawesi architecture and houses the rather dilapidated Museum Balla Lompoa, which displays local artefacts. Unfortunately it's all rather unloved and forgotten.

Red pete-pete marked 'S Minasa' head to Sungguminasa from Makassar Mall.

Makam Sultan HasanuddinTOMB

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pallantiang, off Jl Sultan Hasanuddin)F

Seven kilometres from town on the southeastern outskirts of Makassar, Makam Sultan Hasanuddin memorialises a 17th-century ruler of Gowa. Outside the tomb compound you'll find the Pelantikan Stone, on which the kings of Gowa were crowned. To get here take a red pete-pete marked 'S Minasa' from Makassar Mall to the turn-off for the 1km walk to the tomb.

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

From the early 1970s until 1999 the official name of Makassar was Ujung Pandang. During his final days as president, BJ Habibie made the popular decision to change the name back to Makassar. In reality both names are still used, as they have been for centuries, and neither title is politically charged.

4Sleeping

Makassar's sleeping options are improving but still quite limited, and good budget places are hard to find. A number of excellent new midrange hotels have opened in recent years, and more are under construction.

Most of the best options are within walking distance of the waterfront.

oDodo's HomestayHOMESTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 412 9913; http://dodopenman.blogspot.co.uk; Jl Abdul Kadir Komplex Hartaco Indah Blok 1Y/25; s/d incl breakfast 75,000/100,000Rp; aW)

An excellent homestay owned by Dodo, a superfriendly local who's been assisting travellers for more than 20 years. His home is a spacious, air-conditioned house in a quiet neighbourhood 4km south of the centre; one of the rooms has an en-suite bathroom. There's free tea and coffee, and Dodo arranges transport (including motorbike and car rental) and tours around Sulawesi.

The homestay can be reached by public transport; contact Dodo for exact directions.

New Legend HotelHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-363-2123; http://newlegendhotel.com; Jl Jampea 1; dm/r/ste incl breakfast from 123,000/242,000/440,000Rp; aW)

In a convenient Chinatown location, this new place is owned by the same helpful people who used to run Makassar's only hostel. Their new venture is primarily a modern hotel, with clean, well-presented rooms, all with TV/DVD, air-con and en-suite bathrooms (with hot water), though the cheapest lack windows. The city's only dorms are fan cooled and have shared bathrooms.

oGe Jac MartHOMESTAY$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-859-421; http://ge-jacmart-homestay.blogspot.co.uk; Jl Rambutan 3; r incl breakfast 290,000Rp; aW)

This is a wonderful place to stay, just off the seafront. It's run by the Pongrekun family (originally from Tana Toraja), who are hospitable, speak good English and enjoy looking after guests. The modern, immaculately clean family home has whitewashed walls and a splashes of art, and the seven very comfortable rooms each include a private bathroom with hot water.

It's located on a quiet lane just south of Jalan Kenari, near the Masjid Amirul Mukminin, the 'floating mosque'.

Novotel Makassar Grand ShaylaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-361-9444; www.novotel.com; Jl Charil Anwar 28; r incl breakfast from 640,000Rp; aWs)

This sleek, new contemporary hotel makes a fine base in the city, offering guests a 25m pool, a gym, a spa and really well equipped modern rooms that have fast wi-fi and luxury bedding. It's located about a 10-minute walk from the waterfront.

Favehotel Daeng TompoHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-363-9777; www.favehotels.com; Jl Daeng Tompo 28-36; r incl breakfast from 368,000Rp; aiW)

The boutique-style Favehotel represents good value given its fine location on a quiet street five minutes' walk from the beach. Rooms are not huge, but they are modish and inviting, and have quality beds with crisp linen and hip en-suite shower rooms. There's a cafe-restaurant on-site.

Santika HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-363-2233; www.santika.com; Jl Sultan Hasanuddin 40; r incl breakfast from 642,000Rp; aiW)

The modern, slightly edgily designed Santika isn’t well located for views, but the rooms are plush and have calming beige-and-white decor. Rates for walk-ins can be cheaper than booking online.

Makassar Breeze Place ResidenceHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0896 5007 3932; makassarbreeze@gmail.com; Jl Monginsidi 26E; r incl breakfast 295,000Rp; aW)

The bright, modern accommodation in this apartment-hotel complex offers fine value and comfort, and includes flat-screen TVs, kitchen facilities and attractive bathrooms. It has a high standard of cleanliness, and serves generous breakfasts in the block's communal dining room. The staff speak limited English, but do their best to help out travellers.

Asoka HomestayHOMESTAY$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-873-476; Jl Yosep Latumahina; r incl breakfast 250,000-300,000Rp; aW)

Just steps from the waterfront, this quiet homestay with its lacy, decorative frills may feel like your granny's house. Asoka offers spacious and airy, though slightly dated rooms, with private cold-water bathrooms and TVs, surrounding a little courtyard.

Hotel YasminHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-362-8329; www.yasminmakassar.com; Jl Jampea 5; r incl breakfast from 368,000Rp; aiW)

Victorian-era patterned wallpaper and upholstered chairs add a little decadence to this bustling, decent-value hotel. Rooms are smallish but in good shape and the staff is professional. There’s a cafe-restaurant and 24-hour room service.

Aston MakassarHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-362-3222; www.aston-international.com; Jl Sultan Hasanuddin 10; r incl breakfast from 800,000Rp; aiWs)

This towering city landmark enjoys a fine location within walking distance of the seafront and Fort Rotterdam. Rooms are spacious and well appointed, and the buffet breakfast spread is a welcome sight for hungry bellies. On the top two floors you'll find a 30m indoor pool, a gym, a spa and a sky bar-restaurant.

5Eating

For many visitors it’s the food that makes Makassar a great destination. There’s an abundance of seafood, Chinese dishes, a few international surprises and local specialities such as coto Makassar (a hearty, well-seasoned soup made from buffalo innards), mie titi (also called mie kering – crispy noodles with gravy, chicken and shrimp) and pisang epe (grilled flattened bananas covered with cane syrup and/or chocolate, found all around the city at night at small stalls).

Jl Timor, in the heart of the Chinese quarter, is where you’ll find restaurants serving delicious mie pangsit (wonton soup).

oLae LaeSEAFOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-334-326; Jl Datu Musseng 8; meals from 30,000Rp; hnoon-10pm)

A famous seafood restaurant, Lae Lae is a crowded, unadulterated food frenzy: expect no-nonsense surrounds, discarded crab shells around your feet and great food. You enter via a smoking street-side barbecue area sizzling with grilled fish and seafood, and eat at long tables, where you'll rub shoulders with locals. Three accompanying sambal sauces are offered and there are tasty vegetable side dishes.

Rumah Makan Pate'neINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sulawesi 48; mains 11,000-34,000Rp; h8am-9pm)

Serving up delicious, inexpensive Javanese dishes and Indonesian classics, Pate'ne offers fine value and authentic flavours. Enjoy soto ayam (chicken soup) for just 11,000Rp, or feast on a filling nasi campur (rice with a choice of side dishes) for 27,500Rp. Fresh juices including melon, mango, apple and avocado are available.

Fish WarungsHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan; per fish around 25,000Rp; h5-10.30pm)

A string of makeshift fish warungs set up every night on the foreshore opposite Fort Rotterdam and south along the waterfront, and serve some of the tastiest, cheapest seafood in town. Roaming buskers provide table-side entertainment.

Kampoeng PopsaINTERNATIONAL, INDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan; meals from 25,000Rp; h8am-11pm)

This large, open-sided food court facing the harbour has sea breezes, a young clientele, a gregarous vibe, space for kids to run around, and lots of choices, from mei titi to sushi, and noodle dishes to ice cream. Beers, including Heineken and Guinness, are served. There's often live music at night. Find it right across the street from Fort Rotterdam.

SentosaINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-326-062; Jl Penghibur 26; soups 8000Rp; h8am-10pm)

The Makassarese flock to this basic cafe with sea views for inexpensive grub, including tasty meatballs and delicious wonton soup.

BistropolisINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-363-6988; www.bistropolis.net; Jl Sultan Hasanuddin 18; meals 50,000-149,000Rp; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat, to midnight Sun; aW)

A stylish, atmospheric bistro serving great international standards including pasta and pizza, (imported) steaks, ribs, fish and chips and a few Asian dishes. The ice cream (try the Bailey's flavour) is delectable and the espresso hits the spot. Subtle lighting, comfy seating and fine service make it a fine place for lingering over a meal.

RM NelayanSEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-361-0523; Jl Alimalaka 25; meals 40,000-70,000Rp; h10am-10pm)

It's tough to resist the aromas emanating from this highly popular restaurant's fish barbecue while strolling along Jl Alimalaka. Step inside and receive a selection of six condiments placed on your table. Fish and shrimp are offered in a variety of styles, including delicious rica-rica (a spicy stir-fry), and cold Bintangs are available.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Many of the bars around the port area are little more than brothels disguised as karaoke bars and are best avoided by all but the proverbial drunken sailor.

Makassar does not have a big club scene; most venues are dotted along the harbourfront road. Entry costs from 35,000Rp to 60,000Rp, which usually includes a soft drink or a beer.

Kios SemarangBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Penghibur; hnoon-1am)

Climb the stairs to the upper floors where you will be rewarded with a rowdy crowd downing beers and comfort grub (the spicy chicken wings are famous). It's a key expat hang-out, and the closest thing to a Makassar drinking institution.

LevelBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-831-400; www.thelevel.co.id; Jl Somba Opu 277C; h10am-2am; W)

A landmark white structure facing the floating mosque Masjid Amirul Mukminin, the Level attracts Makassar's young things and hipsters, and hosts DJ events and live bands. There are several zones including a lounge-cafe, the sunset bar, karaoke rooms and a bar-club. Dress sharp (no sandals or flip-flops). You can also drop by for a coffee or a meal during the day.

Zona CafeCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.zonacafe.info; Jl Pasar Ikan; admission 40,000-100,000Rp; h8am-2am)

This popular club draws a loyal young crowd with its DJs and bands from Jakarta and its regular drink promotions. Check its Twitter feed (@zonaholic) for upcoming events.

Ballairate Sunset BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan 10, Hotel Pantai Gapura; h1-11pm)

Built on stilts over the sea, this is the best-located bar in town. Walk right through Hotel Pantai Gapura to discover draft Bintang and a perfect view of the sunset from a large deck.

Kafe KarebaBEER GARDEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Penghibur; h5pm-midnight)

This long-running outdoor beer garden on the seafront features live bands and is popular with locals and visitors alike. It also has a pretty extensive food menu.

3Entertainment

Studio 21CINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.21cineplex.com; Jl Sam Ratulangi)

Shows current Western films in their original language (with Bahasa Indonesia subtitles). On the top floor of the Ratu Indah Mall complex.

7Shopping

Shopping malls are dotted around the city and suburbs.

Jl Somba Opu has craft stores selling jewellery, ‘antiques’ and souvenirs. Look for Kendari filigree silver jewellery, Torajan handicrafts, Chinese pottery, Makassarese brass work and silk cloth from Sengkang.

Ratu Indah MallMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://malratuindah.co.id; Jl Sam Ratulangi; 8am-10pm)

The best central mall, with two (official) Apple retailers, a Body Shop, a Matahari department store, outdoor-adventure sports retailers, cafes and restaurants.

Makassar MallMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Kyai Kaji Ramli & Jl Agus Salim; h7.30am-10pm)

A sprawling mess and more like a market than a mall; come here to experience Makassar at its craziest.

8Information

Emergency

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %110; Jl Ahmad Yani)

Immigration

Immigration OfficeIMMIGRATION

(%0411-584-559; Jl Perintis Kemerdekaan; h7am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)

Located 13km from the city centre, on the road to the airport.

Internet Access

Internet centres are found across the city. Most charge 5000Rp per hour.

Expresso Cafe NetINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Pasar Ikan & Jl Ahmad Yani; per hr 5000Rp; h8am-midnight)

Centrally located, clean private booths and fast connections.

Medical Services

RS Awal Bros HospitalHOSPITAL

(%0411-452-725; http://makassar.awalbros.com; 43 Jl Jendral Urip Sumoharjo)

The most convenient and well-equipped hospital. Some staff speak English here. It's out near the toll road.

Money

Banks and ATMs are dotted all over the centre of the city. You'll find several moneychangers and ATMs at the airport.

Telephone

The most convenient option is to buy a local SIM card (from 5000Rp). Telkomsel is the carrier with the best coverage in Sulawesi.

Tourist Information

Sulawesi Tourism Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-872-336; cnr Jl Sam Ratulangi & Jl Sungai Saddang; h8am-4pm)

There's little practical information available but the staff is helpful and friendly. Take any red pete-pete (a type of mikrolet or bemo) travelling south along Jl Jendral Sudirman to get here.

Travel Agencies

Makassar has many travel agencies offering flight bookings and tours, including trips to Tana Toraja. Don't make a hefty payment up front; some travellers have reported making payments to seemingly professional 'tour organisers' whose tours never materialise.

He's not a conventional travel agent, but freelancer Dodo Mursalim (%0812 412 9913; http://dodopenman.blogspot.com) helps hundreds of travellers each year with transport and tours, and has been doing so for decades. He's reliable, trustworthy and his rates are very reasonable.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Makassar is well connected with other cities in Sulawesi and with Java, Kalimantan and Maluku. International flights include Air Asia to Kuala Lumpur and Silk Air to Singapore.

Note many airline's websites still use Makassar's former name, Ujung Pandang, for bookings.

GarudaAIRLINE

(Garuda Indonesia; GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-365-4747; Jl Slamet Riyadi 6)

Flies directly to and from Manado, Denpasar, Jakarta, Jayapura, Surabaya and Yogyakarta among many other destinations.

Lion AirAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-327-038; Jl Ahmad Yani 22)

Flies daily to and from Manado, Kendari, Gorontalo, Palu, Yogyakarta, Surabaya, Balikpapan, Ternate and Sorong.

Sriwijaya AirAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-424-800; Jl Lanto Daeng Pasewang)

Flies to/from destinations including Ambon, Biak, Balikpapan, Gorontalo, Jayapura, Kendari, Manado, Palu, Surabaya and Ternate.

Wings AirAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-327-038; Jl Ahmad Yani 22)

Flies to/from Gorontalo, Kendari, Luwuk, Mamuju, Poso and Wakatobi.

Boat

Around half the Pelni ferry fleet stops in Makassar, mostly on the way to Surabaya and Jakarta, East Kalimantan, Ambon and Papua. Useful services include the Tidar to Balikpapan, the Sirimau to Larantuka in Flores, and the Tilongkabila to Bau Bau and then up along the east coast to Kendari, Kolonedale, Luwuk, Gorontalo and Bitung.

The Pelni office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-331-401; Jl Jendral Sudirman 38; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat) is efficient and computerised. Tickets are also available at agencies around town. Pelni boats use the chaotic Pelabuhan Makassar ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Nusantara) port in the city centre.

Bus & Kijang

Makassar has numerous terminals but three are most useful.

Terminal DayaBUS STATION

Buses and Kijangs depart throughout the day to all points north, including Sengkang (55,000Rp to 78,000Rp, four hours) and Rantepao (110,000Rp to 220,000Rp, nine hours). There are some luxurious bus services to Rantapao, including night buses (most leave between 8.30pm and 10pm). To get to Terminal Daya, catch any pete-pete (5000Rp, 30 minutes) marked ‘Daya’ from Makassar Mall or from along Jl Bulusaraung. It's in the eastern suburbs on the road to the airport.

Terminal MallengkeriBUS STATION

Buses and Kijangs depart for destinations southeast of Makassar, including to Bulukumba (60,000Rp, four hours) and Pantai Bira (75,000Rp, five hours). For Pantai Bira, you may have to change in Bulukumba. Transport is most frequent in the morning, so it’s good to get to the terminal early. It's about 8km southeast of the city centre; take a pete-pete marked ‘S Minasa’ from Makassar Mall or from along Jl Jendral Sudirman and ask to be dropped at Terminal Mallengkeri.

Terminal SungguminasaBUS STATION

Has regular pete-pete services to Malino (24,000Rp, 1½ hours). To get here take a pete-pete marked ‘S Minasa’ from Makassar Mall or from along Jl Jendral Sudirman.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Hasanuddin Airport is 22km north of Makassar city centre. Using the toll road will save you considerable time.

Bus

Damri buses (27,000Rp) run every 20 to 30 minutes between 8am and 9pm daily from the basement level of the airport to Lapangan Karebosi in central Makassar.

Pete-Pete

These can be convenient (although time consuming) if you want to skip Makassar altogether. Free shuttles run from the basement level of the airport to the main road (about 500m from the terminal) about every 15 minutes; from there you can flag down a pete-pete to Terminal Daya. From Terminal Daya you can transfer to pete-pete going to the other bus terminals or get buses to points north, including Rantepao.

Taxi

Prepaid taxis are available in the arrivals area of the airport. Taxis between the airport and city cost from 105,000Rp to 125,000Rp.

Public Transport

Makassar is hot, so using a becak (bicycle rickshaw), pete-pete or taxi can be a relief.

Becak

Becak drivers like to kerb-crawl, hoping you’ll succumb to their badgering and/or the heat. The going rate is from 7000Rp to 10,000Rp.

Pete-Pete

The main pete-pete terminal is at Makassar Mall. The standard fare around town is 5000Rp.

Taxi

Air-conditioned taxis have meters and are worth using; a 2km ride costs about 14,000Rp. Bluebird (%0411-441-234) is reliable, comfortable and operates 24 hours.

Around Makassar

Pulau Samalona

A tiny speck just off Makassar, the white sands of Pulau Samalona are popular with day trippers, particularly on weekends. It takes a full two minutes to walk around the entire island. There are patches of (degraded) coral offshore, some reef fish, and you'll find snorkelling gear for hire. Compared to Makassar harbour, the water’s pretty clear! Cold drinks (including beer) and fresh fish are available.

To get here you will have to charter a boat (400,000Rp to 500,000Rp return) from the special jetty in Makassar. Boats can take up to eight people.

Pulau Kayangan

This tiny tropical island (also spelt Khayangan) is a short ride (40,000Rp return in a public boat) from Makassar harbourfront. It's rammed with locals on Sundays and holidays but is pleasant enough to visit for a seafood meal the rest of the time; many of the island's restaurants are positioned over the water, and are perfect for sunsets.

Bantimurung

Air Terjun BantimurungWATERFALL

(admission Indonesian/foreigner 25,000/255,000Rp)

These waterfalls 42km from Makassar are set amid lushly vegetated limestone cliffs. It's a highly scenic spot, but beware the absurdly overpriced entrance fee for foreigners.

Looking up, it’s straight out of Jurassic Park, but then you scan the ground level and it’s a classic objek wisata (tourist object), crowded with day trippers on weekends, and peppered with litter and creative concrete. Upstream from the main waterfall there’s another smaller waterfall and a pretty, but treacherous, pool (take a torch to make it through the cave en route).

Bantimurung is also famous for its beautiful butterflies; however, numbers are plummeting, as locals trap them to sell to visitors.

Catch a Damri bus or pete-pete (10,000Rp, one hour) to Maros from Makassar Mall in Makassar, and a pete-pete to Bantimurung (7000Rp, 30 minutes).

Gua Leang Leang

Gua Leang LeangCAVE

(admission Indonesian/foreigner 5000/20,000Rp)

The Gua Leang Leang caves are noted for their ancient paintings. The age of these is unknown, but relics from nearby caves have provided glimpses of life from 8000 to 30,000 years ago. There are 60 or so known caves in the Maros district; the limestone karsts here have more holes than a Swiss cheese.

Catch a pete-pete from Maros to the Taman Purbakala Leang-Leang turn-off on the road to Bantimurung, and walk the last couple of kilometres.

Alternatively, charter a pete-pete from Maros and combine it with a trip to Air Terjun Bantimurung waterfall.

Malino

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Malino is a hill resort, famous as the meeting place of Kalimantan and east Indonesian leaders who endorsed the Netherlands’ ill-fated plans for a federation. More recently, peace agreements have been struck for Maluku and Poso here. There are many scenic walks, and Air Terjun Takapala (admission 3000Rp) is a spectacular waterfall set amid rice fields 4km east of town. Look for the ‘Wisata Alam Lombasang Malino’ sign as you come into town for the waterfall turn-off.

Grand Bukit Indah Resort (%21277; hotel.bukitindah@yahoo.com; Jl Endang 2 ; r incl breakfast 250,000-375,000Rp) is not at all 'grand' but the spacious tiled rooms with private mandis (Indonesian-style bathrooms), flat-screen TVs and front porches are kept tidy. There are many warung in town.

Terminal Sungguminasa in Makassar has regular pete-pete services to Malino (16,000Rp, 2½ hours).

Pantai Bira

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Goats outnumber vehicles in the isolated coastal village and dive centre of Pantai Bira. The scruffy main village, home to most accommodation, is spread out and not particularly attractive; travellers are increasingly choosing to stay at the nearby beach of Bara, where accommodation looks out over a sparkling stretch of powdery white sand.

Bira's beaches are very broad at low tide and there’s decent snorkelling a short swim from the shore. There are several more remote bays, hiking trails and a few caves with freshwater pools to explore in the surrounding area. Unfortunately, rubbish is a big problem everywhere around Bira.

The diving here is dramatic, on a par with anywhere in Indonesia for 'big stuff': lots of sharks (including hammerheads), rays and pelagic fish. However, some sites are swept by strong currents and are only suitable for experienced divers.

Pantai Bira & Around

1Sights

1Pantai BaratA4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2South Sulawesi DiversA4

3Sulawesi Dive AdventureB1

4Sleeping

4Amatoa Beach ResortA4

5Anda BungalowsB4

6Cici Guest HouseA3

7Riswan Guest HouseB4

8Salassa Guest HouseB4

9Sunshine GuesthouseA4

5Eating

SalassaB4

10WarungA4

Warung BambooA4

1Sights

Boat builders use age-old techniques to craft traditional ships at Marumasa, about half a kilometre east of Bira village, and at Tanah Beru on the road to Bulukumba. Wooden boats of various sizes can be seen at different stages of construction.

There is a small market, Pasar Bira ( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-5pm), held in the village every two days.

A short hike from the road near Pantai Timur takes you to the top of Pua Janggo , a small hill with great views.

rBeaches

The Bira region is blessed with sweeping stretches of pale sand. Bear in mind that locals are fairly conservative. Wearing a bikini is fine (on beaches only) but you will get stared at and Makassar day trippers will probably ask to get their photo taken with you.

Pantai BaraBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Around 3km northwest of Bira village, this is a fabulous crescent of white sand, fringed by low cliffs and palms. You can stroll here in 20 to 30 minutes from Bira along the coast with the sand between your toes (low tide only) and marvel at the turquoise water and tropical vegetation. At high tide use the shady dirt track behind the beach, which cuts through woodland that's home to monkeys and large monitor lizards.

Several excellent hotels have opened recently in Pantai Bara.

Pantai BaratBEACH

(West Beach; MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Pantai Barat is Bira's main beach, just west of the village centre. Its white sands are pleasant enough, though they get packed with day trippers on weekends, and there's some rubbish. The beachside warungs that sell grilled fish and banana-boat rides are very popular with locals.

Pantai TimurBEACH

(East Beach; GOOGLE MAP )

Pantai Timur is a coconut-fringed affair near the boat dock in Bira village, but it's usually cursed with rubbish.

2Activities

Bira is rightly renowned for its spectacular scuba diving. Snorkelling is also impressive. Full-day boat trips to Pulau Lihukan and Pulau Betang cost about 400,000Rp per day for a boat seating eight to 10 people. Snorkelling from both Bara and Barat is quite good, but due to the strong tides it's only possible for a few hours a day. Also, currents can be surprisingly strong and people have drowned. Equipment (mask and fins) can be rented for about 50,000Rp per day from several hotels, including Riswan Guest House and Bira Beach Hotel.

Sulawesi Dive AdventureDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 4137 6888; www.sulawesidiveadventure.com; Panrang Luhu; dives US$35)

A recently opened, European-owned dive centre with new equipment, and excellent local dive instructors and guides who have decades of experience between them.

South Sulawesi DiversDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 4443 6626; www.south-sulawesi-diver.com; Jl Poros Bara; dives €35)

A well-managed dive centre run by Elvis, a German dive instructor who has been leading dives around Bira for years. South Sulawesi Divers is reputable and well managed. Operates out of Mangga Lodge.

Bira DiversDIVING

(%0812 3720 0560; http://biradivers.com; Pantai Barat; dives €35, PADI Open Water Diver course €335)

This dive school has good dive equipment and instructors. However, as they use small local fishing craft as dive boats, it's not possible to reach the offshore islands when the sea is choppy. We don't recommend staying at the affiliated beach hotel (the Bira Dive Camp), as thefts have occurred.

BIRA'S TOP SCUBA-DIVING SITES

Famous as one of the 'sharkiest' spots in Indonesia, Bira offers truly spectacular scuba diving. The islands off Bira lie at the tip of southern Sulawesi where oceanic currents converge, bringing upswells of cool water from the depths and lots of pelagic life.

The seas can be rough off Pantai Bira and it's not always possible to reach islands such as Kambing, around 7km south, which has five dive sites. But there are more sheltered sites closer to shore, where you can spot macro life including nudibranchs, seahorses and prolific reef fish.

Swedish dive instructor Nick Lindberg, who worked in Bira for years, considers Kambing island to be the region's highlight. Lindberg's favourite sites include the following:

Great Wall of Goat Kambing means 'goat' in Indonesian, and the unpopulated island's eastern side has a remarkable vertical wall teeming with reef life. Sharks (including hammerheads and threshers) and rays (including mantas and devil rays) are typically encountered.
Cap Bira This impressive site off the extreme tip of the mainland has a lovely swim-through; white-tip sharks, shrimps and pipefish are common.
Shark Point This is an easier dive with a sloped profile on the eastern side of Liukang Loe island. Expect beautiful coral, turtles, sea snakes and, of course, lots of sharks, including 2m white-tips, black-tips and occasionally bull sharks.
Fish Market For experienced divers, this underwater sea mount teems with sea life, including huge groupers, jacks and Napoleon wrasse. It's a simply astonishing dive.
Mola-Mola Point On the western side of Kambing island, giant mola-mola are encountered at this site that's suitable for advanced divers. August and September are the best months.

4Sleeping

Budget accommodation is concentrated in Bira village; however, most places are ageing and not great value. Pantai Bara, 3km away, makes a lovely secluded place to stay.

Note prices are flexible at many places, with rates jacked up on holidays and discounts on offer during quiet times.

Bira Village Area

oSunshine GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(Nini's Place; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 9093 1175; http://ninibone.blogspot.co.uk; s/d 150,000/180,000Rp)

Perched up on a hill, with village and bay views, British-and-Indonesian-run Sunshine has a wonderful terrace with sea breezes, a convivial atmosphere and is easily the best-tended place in the village. Comfy rooms in a big wooden house have spotless shared (hot-water) Western-style bathrooms.

Salassa Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 426 5672; salassaguesthouse@yahoo.com; s/d incl breakfast 120,000/150,000Rp)

A fine family-run place, Salassa has six small rooms (separated by wooden walls) that share a mandi (Indonesian-style) bathroom. The owners are very helpful, speak English and can direct you to some great off-the-beaten-track locations around Bira. The downstairs restaurant is one of the best in town; the included breakfast is filling.

Riswan Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 4166 4955, 0812 426 5627; r with fan/air-con incl breakfast 150,000/300,000Rp; ai)

All the tiled rooms at this guesthouse are kept very clean and tidy, and have private mandi; air-con options also have flat-screen TVs. Host Riswan is knowledgeable about the Bira region, speaks good English, and provides guests with tips and a map of the area for exploring.

Villa PanrangluhuBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 4137 6888; www.villapanrangluhu.com; bungalows with fan/air-con incl breakfast from 300,000/500,000Rp; a)

Opened in 2015, these four lovely, well-constructed wooden bungalows are operated by Sulawesi Dive Adventures. Each has a private bathroom, a front deck and enjoy a beachside location, but they are grouped quite close together.

Cici Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 5592 2595; http://ciciguesthouse.blogspot.co.uk; r incl breakfast 260,000Rp; a)

This new place is good value and has modern rooms with private bathrooms and TVs, all set in a cheery, banana-yellow-painted block. There's a restaurant on-site and it's about 150m inland from the beach.

Anda BungalowsBUNGALOW$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0413-82125; bungalows incl breakfast 475,000-750,000Rp; a)

All the bungalows here have air-con and are set around a garden away from the sea. The newer cement bungalows are quite comfy; the cheaper wooden bungalows aren’t as posh but are still OK value for Bira. The big restaurant here has lots of choices.

Amatoa Beach ResortRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 4296 5500; www.amatoaresort.com; 6 Jl Pasir Putih; r incl breakfast 1,500,000-2,500,000Rp; aiWs)

Perched above the rocks and overlooking the ocean, this luxurious place has a Mediterranean feel to it. Think exposed stone work, driftwood and decking, cacti, neutral-toned drapes and cushioned daybeds. Service can be hit-and-miss, however, considering the rates charged.

Pantai Bara

The owners of Sunshine Guesthouse in Bira village had almost completed a new midrange place at Pantai Bara, Nini's Beach Bungalows ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 9093 1175; www.facebook.com/ninisbeachbungalows; Pantai Bara; cottages incl breakfast 500,000-700,000Rp ), at the time of research.

oCosmos BungalowsBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 9260 8820; http://cosmosbungalows.com; Pantai Bara; bungalows incl breakfast 250,000-500,000Rp)

Run by young, well-travelled British owners who really look after their guests, Cosmos offers a handful of rustic-chic, beautifully built bungalows with shared Western-style bathrooms. The bungalows are located on a slim patch of land that stretches down to the coastal cliffs, where you'll find the lovely restaurant, high above Pantai Bara. Expect good vibes all round and great local information.

Bara BeachBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 9413 1562; www.bara-beach.com; Jl Poros Bara; bungalow incl breakfast €50-70; aW)

Overlooking dreamy Pantai Bara, these tastefully presented, well-appointed bungalows are supersized with plush bathrooms and terraces; all are set in a lush, flowering garden. It's efficiently run by a German–Indonesian family and the seafront restaurant is perfect for a sundowner or an enjoyable meal.

Mangga LodgeHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0413-270-0756; www.mangga-lodge.com; Jl Poros Bara; r incl breakfast €60; ai)

This is a German-run place where the comfortable, stylish rooms are perhaps a tad overpriced, but the location on Pantai Bara is divine. It's a good choice for divers (South Sulawesi Divers is based here) and there are lots of organised outings on offer to the surrounding area.

5Eating & Drinking

Many guesthouses serve good local meals while the hotels have more expensive restaurants. On nearby Pantai Bara you'll only find hotel restaurants: both Cosmos Bungalows and Bara Beach have excellent waterfront locations and great food.

SalassaINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 30,000-45,000Rp; h7am-10pm)

This large purpose-built ground-floor restaurant within Salassa Guest House offers homestyle cooking (try the fish 'a la Salassa' with peppers and spices), chicken, rice and noodles dishes. It serves cold beer and fresh juices.

Warung BambooINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; meals 20,000-40,000Rp; h7am-10pm)

A roadside place that hits the spot for tasty noodle dishes, seafood and delicious ikan bakar (grilled fish).

WarungINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; meals from 15,000Rp; h7am-10pm)

For cheap grub, head to the beachfront warung for grilled fish and noodles dishes.

SULAWESI SEAFARERS

The Bugis are Indonesia’s best-known sailors, and carry and trade goods on their magnificent wooden schooners throughout Indonesia.

The Bugis’ influence expanded rapidly after the fall of Makassar, which resulted in a diaspora from South Sulawesi in the 17th and 18th centuries. They established strategic trading posts at Kutai (Kalimantan), Johor (north of Singapore) and Selangor (near Kuala Lumpur), and traded freely throughout the region. Bugis and Makassarese pinisi (schooners) are still built along the south coasts of Sulawesi and Kalimantan, using centuries-old designs and techniques. You can see boats being built at Marumasa and Tanah Beru, both near Bira.

The Bajau, Bugis, Butonese and Makassarese seafarers of Sulawesi have a 500-year history of trading and cultural links with Indigenous Australians, and their ships are featured in pre-European Aboriginal cave art in northern Australia. British explorer Matthew Flinders encountered 60 Indonesian schooners at Melville Bay in 1803; today many more still make the risky (and illegal) journey to fish reefs in the cyclone belt off the northern coast of Australia.

Many Minahasans of North Sulawesi, relative newcomers to sailing folklore, work on international shipping lines across the world. As with their Filipino neighbours, the Minahasans’ outward-looking culture, plus their language and sailing skills, make them the first choice of many captains.

8Information

Most services and amenities are located along a small section of Jl Kapongkolang, the road into Pantai Bira. Foreign tourists must pay 5000Rp per person at the toll booth when they first enter. There are BNI and BRI ATMs at the harbour entrance at Pantai Timur.

Amatoa Beach Resort is the only accommodation to offer wi-fi, but guesthouses and hotels offer (limited) internet access via data sticks and Telkomsel 3G.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Note that departure times change frequently and ferries are regularly cancelled during high seas, sometimes for several days.

The harbour at Pantai Timur has twice-daily boats to Pulau Selayar (79,000Rp, two hours). There is also a direct boat to Labuanbajo in Flores (142,000Rp) on Sunday nights, but it’s a slow ride, taking around 30 hours.

Bus, Bemo & Kijang

From Makassar (Terminal Mallengkeri), a few Kijangs go directly to Pantai Bira (80,000Rp, five to six hours). Alternatively, catch a Kijang or bus to Bulukumba (60,000Rp), and another to Pantai Bira (20,000Rp; note that transport from Bulukumba to Pantai Bira stops at around 3pm).

Direct Kijangs returning from Pantai Bira to Makassar leave at 6am and 10am; book via your hotel the day before and you'll be picked up; alternatively, take a pete-pete from Pantai Bira to Bulukumba and then a Kijang or bus to Makassar from there.

Pulau Lihukan

This island, a short ride from Pantai Bira, is a popular destination for snorkelling trips. Weavers at Ta’Buntuleng make heavy, colourful cloth on hand looms under their houses. On the pretty beach west of the village there is an interesting old graveyard, and off the beach there are acres of sea grass and coral, but mind the currents.

Right on the white beach overlooking the mainland and in front of a good snorkelling spot, Wisma & Restaurant Leukang Loe (%081 3425 78515; Pulau Lihukan; 250,000Rp per person incl 3 meals; a) has simple wooden bungalows with private bathrooms and front porches for sea-gazing. The kind family owners cook up tasty fish and vegetable meals.

Boat charters to Lihukan and the nearby, uninhabited Pulau Kambing cost 500,000Rp per boat from Pantai Bira. Most Bira guesthouses and hotels will arrange trips.

Pulau Selayar

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This long, narrow island lies off the southwestern peninsula of Sulawesi and is inhabited by the Bugis, the Makassarese and the Konjo. Most reside along the infertile west coast and in Benteng, the main town. Selayar’s long coastline is a repository of flotsam from nearby shipping lines, perhaps accounting for the presence of a 2000-year-old Vietnamese Dongson drum, kept in an annexe near the former Benteng Bontobangun (Bontobangun Fort), a few kilometres south of Benteng.

Selayar’s main attractions are its sandy beaches and coral reefs. Snorkelling around Pulau Pasi, opposite Benteng, is good, but you will have to charter a boat.

4Sleeping

Selayar Dive ResortRESORT$$$

(www.selayar-dive-resort.com; s/d with fan €85/135, with air-con €135/160; hOct-Apr ; a)

A well-run German-owned place with eight lovely thatched-roofed, sea-facing wooden bunaglows on a sandy beach. It's very much geared to divers, and there are experienced divemasters to guide you around the fringing reefs and wall dives close by. Rates include all meals; two dives cost €75.

8Getting There & Away

Two daily ferries (75,000Rp, two hours) depart at 10am and 3pm from Pantai Timur harbour near Pantai Bira heading to/from Pamatata on Pulau Selayar. From Makassar, Wings Air operates flights twice-weekly (from 407,000Rp) and Aviastar once-weekly (368,000Rp) to Selayar airport.

Taka Bone Rate Islands

Southeast of Pulau Selayar and north of Pulau Bone Rate is the 2220-sq-km Taka Bone Rate, the world’s third-largest coral atoll. The largest coral atoll, Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands, is just 20% bigger. Some of the islands and extensive reefs in the region are now part of Taka Bone Rate Marine National Park (Taman Laut Taka Bone Rate), a marine reserve with a rich variety of marine and bird life.

There is no official accommodation on the islands, but if you manage to get here you can stay with villagers if you ask the kepala desa (village head) at Bone Rate on Pulau Bone Rate. Boats leave irregularly from Selayar. Most visitors are divers on liveaboard trips.

Watampone

%0481 / Pop 85,600

Known more simply as Bone (bone-eh) by locals, Watampone is a small town with a good range of hotels. The only reason most foreigners come here is to go to/from Kolaka in Southeast Sulawesi from the nearby port of Bajoe or to break up a trip to Tana Toraja.

1Sights

Museum LapawawoiMUSEUM

(Jl Thamrin; h7am-4pm)F

While in town, visit Museum Lapawawoi, a former palace housing one of Indonesia’s most interesting regional collections, including an odd array of court memorabilia.

4Sleeping & Eating

Pantai Kering near the bus station has many warung and is the best place to eat.

Wisma Bulo GadingGUESTHOUSE$

(%0418-24750; bulo_gading@yahoo.com; 38 Jl Ahmad Yani; r incl breakfast 200,000Rp; aW)

A good-value guesthouse where the rooms have en-suite bathrooms with hot water.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Bajoe port, 8km east of Watampone has ferries to Kolaka (75,000/116,000Rp for deck/business class, eight hours), scheduled nightly at 8pm.

From Watampone, bemos go to Bajoe every few minutes from a stop behind the market. From the bus terminal at the end of the incredibly long causeway in Bajoe, buses head off to most places, including Makassar and Rantepao, just after the ferry arrives.

Bus & Bemo

The terminal is 2km west of town, so take an ojek (motorcycle that takes passengers) or bemo from Jl Sulawesi. Kijangs and buses travel to Bulukumba (60,000Rp, 3½ hours, hourly) for connections to Bira (20,000Rp, one hour), Rantepao (96,000Rp, seven hours) and Makassar (68,000Rp, four hours). Kijangs to Sengkang (38,000Rp, two hours) leave from Jl Mangga in the centre of Watampone. Bus agencies along Jl Besse Kajuara near the bus terminal sell bus-boat-bus tickets to Kendari (from 180,000Rp).

Sengkang

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Sengkang is a small yet traffic-clogged town with a nearby scenic lake and a traditional hand-woven silk industry. It's a convenient place to break the journey between Rantepao and Pantai Bira, and you'll find several decent hotels and guesthouses in town.

1Sights & Activities

Danau TempeLAKE

(entrance with guide 100,000Rp)

This large, shallow lake is fringed by wetlands, with floating houses and magnificent birdlife. Hotels can help you charter a boat (160,000Rp for two hours), allowing you to speed along Sungai Walanae, visit Salotangah village in the middle of the lake, cross to Batu Batu village on the other side, and return within two hours. You could haggle for a cheaper rate at the longboat terminal opposite the sports field on Jl Sudirman.

Geologists believe the lake was once a gulf between southern Toraja and the rest of South Sulawesi. As the lands merged, the gulf disappeared, and geologists believe the lake will eventually disappear too.

Silk Weaving WorkshopsSILK FARM

Sengkang is known for its sutera (silk) weaving industry. Silk-weaving workshops are found around 5km out of town, and the nearest silkworm farms are about 15km from Sengkang. Hotels can organise trips, or you can charter a pete-pete from the terminal.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHotel BBCHOTEL$$

(%0485-21363; bbchotel_sgk@yahoo.com; Jl Palawaruka 17; r incl breakfast 375,000-475,000Rp ; aW)

A modern, efficiently run hotel where the rooms are very inviting; all have impressive attention to detail, and pleasing colour schemes of muted greys and creams offset with purples and ruby-reds. There's 24-hour room service, a restaurant, and a coffee shop on the ground floor for all your espresso needs.

oLesehan JetpurINDONESIAN$

(Jl Tanjong; meals 10,000-20,000Rp; h10am-9pm)

A large, bustling place with alcove seating that's very popular with office workers, Lesehan Jetpur offers authentic, inexpensive local food, including spicy chicken such as ayam tampa tulang mentega (20,000Rp), plenty of fish and rice dishes, as well as fresh juices (from 10,000Rp). It's 1km south of the centre.

8Getting There & Away

To get to/from Rantepao (six hours), take a bemo to Lawawoi (25,000Rp) and catch a bus from there (50,000Rp); alternatively you can go via Palopo. There are regular buses to/from Terminal Daya in Makassar (from 55,000Rp, six hours), but Kijangs (70,000Rp, four hours) take a shorter route. Bemos to local destinations leave from the bus terminal behind the market on Jl Kartini. Agencies for long-distance buses, Kijangs and Pelni boats are a few metres south of the terminal.

Pare Pare

%0421 / Pop 134,000

Pare Pare is a hilly city with plenty of greenery. It's sometimes used as a stopover between Tana Toraja and Makassar. It’s home to the second-largest port in the region, and has many Pelni services and boats to Kalimantan.

4Sleeping & Eating

Lotus HotelHOTEL$

(%0421-28799; Jl Zasilia 29; r from 175,000Rp; aW)

Around 250m southeast of the harbour this small hotel is very handy for those on a Pelni ferry mission. Accommodation is priced keenly; all options have private bathroom and reliable in-room wifi.

Restoran AsiaCHINESE$$

(%0421-21415; Jl Patompo 25; meals 35,000-60,000Rp)

A well-run, clean, air-conditioned place with a particularly good seafood selection and great Chinese omelettes. Also offers cold Bintang beer.

8Information

The town is stretched out along the waterfront. At night, the esplanade turns into a lively pedestrian mall with warungs. Most of what you might need can be found on the streets running parallel to the harbour, including many ATMs.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Pare Pare has good boat connections to East Kalimantan. Pelni (%0421-21017; Jl Andicammi) runs weekly connections to Balikpapan, and every one or two days passenger boats travel to Samarinda (22 hours) and Balikpapan (two nights), but these boats are far less safe than the Pelni ships. Schedules and bookings are available from agencies near the port and just north of Restoran Asia.

Bus

Very regular buses and Kijangs go to Makassar (37,000Rp, 3½ hours) and Rantepao (64,000Rp, five hours). Most buses travel through Terminal Induk, several kilometres south of the city, but it’s often easier to hail a bus as it flies through town.

Tana Toraja

With its vibrant tribal culture and stunning scenery the facinating region of Tana Toraja is rightly a mecca for travellers. Visually its allure is immediate, with villages of elaborately painted houses with boat-shaped roofs, and towering terraces of emerald green rice paddies, all of which is overseen by a protective necklace of jagged jungle-clad hills.

Culturally the Toraja, most of whom were animists until the early 20th century, are preoccupied with death. Though ancient ways are inevitably changing as this once-isolated region becomes better connected to the rest of the nation, profound (and very bloody) funeral ceremonies remain a vital part of Torajan tradition. Buffalo and pigs are sacrificed; there is a slew of traditional dances, and lashings of food and drink. High-class Toraja dead are entombed in cave graves or hanging graves in the steep cliffs, which are guarded over by tau tau (life-sized wooden effigies) carved in their image; you’ll find these eerie yet beautiful cliff cemeteries scattered throughout the region.

The biggest funerals are usually held in the dry-season months of July and August, at which time tourism numbers soar, but there are funerals year-round. Famous for their hospitality, the Torajans are a hospitable bunch and visitors are usually more than welcome to attend these ceremonies; however, a guide is near-essential to make the most of the experience.

While most people consider attending a funeral as a highlight of their visit, Tana Toraja also offers some great do-it-yourself trekking, cycling and motorbiking through its evergreen landscape of spellbinding beauty.

Rantepao

%0423 / Pop 26,500

Something of an overgrown village, Rantepao is an easy-to-manage town that lies within striking distance of the region's major sites, and offers a good range of accommodation and restaurants. The centre is a tad scruffy, but traffic isn’t too heavy and the streets quickly merge with farmers' fields on Rantepao's outskirts; you're never far from the crow of a rooster. Nights can be cool and there is rain throughout the year, even in the dry season.

Rantepao

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1IndosellaC2

4Sleeping

2Luta Resort TorajaA3

3MadarandaB1

4Wisma Maria IA4

5Wisma MonikaA3

6Wisma MontonD2

5Eating

7Cafe ArasC2

8Restoran MamboA3

9Rimiko RestoranC2

10Rumah Makan SaruranB3

7Shopping

11Kaos TorajaA4

12TodiA3

1Sights

Pasar BoluMARKET

Rantepao’s main market is held every six days; ask around in town for the exact day. It also operates daily in a reduced capacity. The main market is a very big, social occasion that draws crowds from all over Tana Toraja. There's a 10,000Rp charge to enter the livestock market, where the leading lights from the buffalo community are on parade; many of the animals cost more than a small car. Pasar Bolu is 2km northeast of town and easily accessible by bemo.

2Activities

Most of the area's activities lie in the hills beyond Rantepao. Hotels that have swimming pools allow nonguests to swim for a fee (from 15,000Rp).

BALOK

The markets held at Rantepao and Makale have whole sections devoted to the sale of the alcoholic drink balok (palm wine; also known as tuak and toddy). Balok is sold in huge jugs around town and comes in a variety of strengths, colours (from clear to dark red, achieved by adding bark) and flavours (from sweet to bitter).

TTours

There are many independent guides based in Rantepao. Agencies can also arrange tours (including trekking and cultural tours), vehicles and guides.

IndosellaHIKING, RAFTING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 4250 5301, 0423-25210; www.sellatours.com; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 111)

A reliable, experienced tour company that organises good hiking, white-water rafting and cultural excursions.

4Sleeping

Prices in Rantepao rise in the peak tourist season (June to August), when some private homes also accept guests. Air-conditioning is rare as nights are cool.

Location and views are often the selling points for midrange places along the roads to Makale or Palopo, which cater almost exclusively for tour groups.

oPia’s Poppies HotelGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21121, 0813 4202 6768; poppiestoraja@yahoo.co.id; s/d 135,000/175,000Rp; W)

Resembling an Alpine mountain lodge, this excellent place in a tranquil location 10-minutes' walk from the centre has very helpful staff and a welcoming ambience. Rooms face a verdant garden, have quirky details such as stone bathrooms and en-suites have hot water. Be sure to eat in the charming cafe which serves excellent local food. Breakfast not included.

Rosalina HomestayHOMESTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-25530; http://rosalinahomestayrantepao.blogspot.co.uk; Jl Pongitiku Karassik; d incl breakfast 200,000Rp; W)

Opened in 2015, this fine place is owned by Enos, a highly experienced Torajan guide, and his family. They take really good care of their guests, including by preparing filling breakfasts. The spacious rooms are on the upper floor of the family's home, and overlook an ocean of ride paddies from a large shared balcony.

Wisma Maria IGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21165; adespasaka1@yahoo.com; Jl Sam Ratulangi 23; s/d incl breakfast 115,000/137,000Rp, r with hot water bathroom from 170,000Rp; W)

This cheap place has many plus points including the helpful owner, who can arrange guides and motorbikes, a garden and an attractive dining room decorated with tribal artefacts (where a very generous breakfast is served). However, the simple accommodation is very basic and varies a lot; look first before you commit to a room.

Hotel PisonHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21344; s/d/tr from 135,000/150,000/350,000Rp; aW)

Tumbling down a hillside, the bland but fair-value Pison has 32 clean rooms in several price categories, with bathrooms and minibalconies or porches; all but the very cheapest have hot water. There's a good restaurant; breakfast not included.

Wisma MontonHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21675; Jl Abdul Gani 14A; r incl breakfast 200,000-250,000Rp; W)

Hidden away down a side lane, this three-storey establishment has clean and comfortable rooms with hot water, and an attractive garden. The building is speckled with Toraja decoration and there’s a rooftop restaurant with fine views.

Wisma MonikaGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21216; 36 Jl Sam Ratulangi; r incl breakfast 250,000-400,000Rp; aW)

A grandiose-looking cream villa in a central spot with a choice of plain but well-maintained and clean rooms, all with bedside reading lights. Staff prepare a good breakfast.

MadarandaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-23777; Jl Sadan 21; d incl breakfast 375,000Rp; W)

The huge Torajan-style house, compete with painted details and tribal carving, is the real draw here, and in low season you can easily bargain for better rates. Staff is friendly. It's located next to a busy road around a 10-minute walk from the centre.

Luta Resort TorajaHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21060; www.torajalutaresort.com; 26 Jl Dr Ratulangi; r incl breakfast 675,000-1,100,000Rp; aWs)

This is the only luxury hotel in the centre and it's a stylish place to stay. Very comfortable accommodation is decorated with modern, muted colours, though bathrooms are small. Rooms either overlook the lush central garden or the river at the rear. Note the pool is tiny and wi-fi was limited to the lobby at the time of research.

Heritage TorajaRESORT$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21192; www.torajaheritage.com; r incl breakfast US$100-175; aWs)

The Heritage styles itself as a four-star resort, offering accommodation in huge tongkonan-style houses and a more conventional hotel block (which is fine, but not as atmospheric). Gardens are lush, the lagoon-like pool is great and there's a separate kids pool. Overall, it's a solid choice, but the hotel would benefit from improving attention to detail. Located about 3km from town towards Ke’te Kesu.

Toraja Torsina HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21293; www.hotel-torsina.com; s/d incl breakfast from US$48/62; Ws)

Set in the rice fields near the turn-off to Ke’te Kesu, the rooms here are clean and comfortable (if old-fashioned) and decent value. Service is good and the lovely L-shaped pool is a blissful place for all ages to chill.

THE TORAJA

The Toraja inhabit the vast, rugged landscape of the South Sulawesi highlands. Their name is derived from the Bugis word toriaja, which once had negative connotations similar to ‘hillbilly’ or ‘bumpkin’.

For centuries Torajan life and culture survived the constant threat posed by the Bugis from the southwest. However, in 1905 the Dutch began a bloody campaign to bring Central Sulawesi under their control. Missionaries moved in on the heels of the troops, and by the time of WWII many of the great Torajan ceremonies (with the exception of funeral celebrations) were rapidly disappearing from Torajan culture.

BELIEFS

Prior to the arrival of Christianity, the Toraja believed in many gods but worshipped Puang Matua as the special god of their family, clan or tribe. Christianity has undermined some traditional Torajan beliefs, but the ceremonies are still a vital part of life.

Torajan mythology suggests that their ancestors came by boat from the south, sailed up Sungai Sa’dan (Sa’dan River) and dwelt in the Enrekang region before being pushed into the mountains by the arrival of other groups.

Buffalo are a status symbol for the Toraja and are of paramount importance in various religious ceremonies. The buffalo has traditionally been a symbol of wealth and power; even land could be bought with buffalo. Sought-after albino buffalo can change hands for more than US$8000.

Despite the strength of traditional beliefs, Christianity in Toraja is a very active force. One of the first questions asked of you will be your religion, and Protestants are given immediate approval.

TRADITIONAL HOUSES

One of the most noticeable aspects about Tana Toraja is the size and grandeur of the tongkonan (traditional Torajan house). It is the place for family gatherings and may not be bought or sold.

The towering roof, which rears up at either end, is the most striking aspect of a tongkonan. Some believe the roof represents the horns of a buffalo; others suggest it represents the bow and stern of a boat. The more buffalo horns visible, the higher the household’s status.

FUNERALS

Of all Torajan ceremonies, the most important is the tomate (funeral; literally ‘deceased’). Without proper funeral rites the soul of the deceased will cause misfortune to its family.

The Toraja generally have two funeral ceremonies: one immediately after death and an elaborate second funeral after preparations have been made. The bigger funerals are usually scheduled during the dry months of July and August, but there are funerals year-round.

Until the time of the second funeral, the deceased remains in the family house. An invitation to visit the deceased is an honour. If you accept, remember to thank the deceased and ask permission of the deceased when you wish to leave – as you would of a living host.

The second funeral can be spread over several days and involve hundreds of guests. The Toraja believe that the souls of animals should follow their masters to the next life, hence the importance of animal sacrifices. Festivities often start with bullfights, where lots of lively betting takes place, and some famous fighting bulls may be imported for the event from the distant reaches of the country. Animal lovers are likely to find the bullfights disturbing and the sacrifices very traumatic; these two kinds of events are best avoided if you cringe at the sight of blood.

Visitors attending a funeral should wear black or dark-coloured clothing and bring gifts of sugar or cigarettes for the family of the deceased.

GRAVES & TAU TAU

The Toraja believe that you can take possessions with you into the afterlife, and the dead generally go well equipped to their graves. Since this historically led to grave plundering, the Toraja started to hide their dead in caves.

These caves are hollowed out by specialist cave builders. Coffins are taken deep inside the caves, and tau tau (life-sized carved wooden effigies of the dead) are placed on balconies in the rock face in front of the caves.

You can see tau tau carvers at work at Londa. There are many tau tau at Lemo and a few elsewhere, but it’s becoming increasingly difficult to see them in Tana Toraja. So many have been stolen that the Toraja now keep them in their homes.

5Eating

Going to ceremonies or dining in local restaurants offer great opportunities to sample Torajan food. The best-known dish here is pa’piong (meat stuffed into bamboo tubes along with vegetables and coconut). If you want to try it in a restaurant, order several hours in advance because it takes time to cook.

Pia'sINDONESIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21121; meals 30,000-60,000Rp; h7-10am, 6-10pm; W)

The dining room at Pia's Poppies Hotel is a fine place to try local food including pa'piong, plus decent pizza. All food is cooked to order, so it's essential to order well ahead (at least two hours) or be prepared to wait. Bintangs cost just 30,000Rp. It's a ten-minute walk south of the centre. Note it's closed for lunch.

Rumah Makan SaruranINDONESIAN, CHINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro 19; mains from 15,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)

Reliable, freshly prepared Indonesian-style Chinese food is served at this hopping restaurant that’s popular with young Indonesians. It looks a bit scruffy from the street, but once you're past the kitchen's smoking woks you'll find the comfortable interior has plush banquette seating. There's a full bar and good juices for 12,000Rp.

Rimiko RestoranINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-23366; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 115; dishes 20,000-50,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)

A long-running, very friendly place that serves authentic local food. It serves good Torajan specialities including buffalo, pork and eel in black sauce (50,000Rp), as well as Indo staples such as gado gado.

Restoran MamboINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sam Ratulangi; dishes 25,000-60,000Rp; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat; W)

Geared towards tourists, this clean place has a long menu including everything from sate to steak (and an interesting interpretation of a burrito). No MSG is used.

Cafe ArasINDONESIAN, STEAK$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Andi Mappanyukki; meals 35,000-100,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W)

This place is wildly popular with tour groups and travellers thanks to its tourist-friendly set-up (attractive seating, sensitive lighting and mellow music). The food is decent, and includes international dishes (such as steaks) and local options, but not exceptional; it's toned down a degree for Western palates.

7Shopping

Rantepao is a great place to find woodcarving, weaving and basketry, the main crafts of Tana Toraja. Look for specialities from the region's villages, such as Mamasan boxes (used to store magic, salt and betel nuts), huge horn necklaces and wooden figurines; and high-quality woodcarvings by Ke’te Kesu and Londa carvers, such as trays, panels and clocks, designed like the decorations on traditional houses.

Artefacts sold in souvenir shops, especially around the market building in town, also include small replicas of Torajan houses; weaving (that produced in Sa’dan is particularly good); and cloth from the Mamasa Valley. Necklaces made of seeds, chunky silver, and amber or wooden beads festoon the gift shops, but it's the orange-bead necklaces that are authentic Torajan.

TodiCRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-27003; www.todi.co.id; Jl Pembangunan 70; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

Sells high quality ikat, wood carvings and Torajan crafts. You can watch weavers in action on their looms here. Prices are quite high, but some bargaining is possible.

Kaos TorajaCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ratulangi 1; T-shirts 90,000Rp; h10am-7.30pm)

This store specialises in cool T-shirts (for both guys 'n' gals) made from quality cotton and nothing else. Check out its Toraja motifs and stylish designs.

8Information

If you’re doing some serious hiking, pick up a copy of the detailed Tana Toraja (1:85,000) map, published by Periplus (best bought from home).

Free wi-fi is standard in most hotels and guesthouses. Internet cafes are located all over town, and charge around 5000Rp per hour.

Bank DanamonBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro)

Has an ATM.

BNI BankBANK

(Bank Negara Indonesia; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro)

Branch with an ATM.

Government Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21277; Jl Ahmad Yani 62A; h9am-2pm Mon-Sat)

The friendly staff here can provide accurate, independent information about local ceremonies and festivals, and recommend guides.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)

Rumah Sakit ElimHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21258; Jl Ahmad Yani; h24hr)

This is the main hospital in town; however, facilities are quite basic. Make for Makassar if you require international-standard medical care.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Aviastar was operating twice-weekly flights between Rantepao and Makassar at the time of research, but double-check the latest schedule as it's not a reliable connection. Planes are tiny and seats very limited; tickets can be booked via travel agents in town, not via Aviastar's website.

Bus & Bemo

Most long-distance buses leave from the bus company offices along Jl Andi Mappanyukki. Buses often run at night. Prices vary according to speed and the level of comfort and space.

Several bus companies offer comfortable buses to/from Makassar, including Charisma (which has wi-fi), Manggala Trans, Metro Permai and Bintang Prima. Litha buses are cheaper but pretty beat-up. Try to book your ticket a day or so in advance.

Various companies also have services to Mamuju via Polewali, from where there are connections to Mamasa. From Terminal Bolu, 2km north of Rantepao, there are regular vehicles to Palopo. From the corner of Jl Landorundun and Jl Andi Mapanyukki, Kijangs leave every few minutes to Makale (6000Rp, 20 minutes) and other places in Tana Toraja.

BUSES FROM RANTEPAO

Destination	Fare (Rp)	Duration (hr)
Makassar (Terminal Daya)	110,000-220,000	8-9
Mamasa (via Makale)	135,000	12
Palu	180,000	20
Pare Pare	64,000	5
Pendelo	100,000	8
Poso	150,000	12
Tentena	130,000	10

8Getting Around

Rantepao is small and easy to walk around. A becak (bicycle rickshaw) should cost around 5000Rp in town. Motorbikes cost from 60,000Rp per day to hire; many guesthouses, including Wisma Maria I, rent out bikes.

Makale

%0423

Makale is the administrative capital of Tana Toraja but there's little reason to stick around, other than to switch buses or visit the market. Built around an artificial lake, the town is ringed by cloud-shrouded hills.

The market is a blur of noise and colour. Held every six days, you’ll see pigs strapped down with bamboo strips for buyers’ close inspection, buckets of live eels, piles of fresh and dried fish, and a corner of the market is reserved just for balok sales.

8Getting There & Away

Kijangs connect Rantepao and Makale (6000Rp, 20 minutes) between dawn and dusk. Most of the bus companies based in Rantepao also have offices near the corner of Jl Merdeka and Jl Ihwan Rombe in Makale. The only direct bus connection between Tana Toraja and Mamasa is with Disco Indah, departing daily at around 8am (140,000Rp, 12 hours).

Around Tana Toraja

To really experience all that Tana Toraja has to offer, you’ll need to spend a few days exploring the spectacular countryside. Stunning scenery, cascading rice fields, precipitous cliff graves, other-worldly tau tau, hanging graves, soaring tongkonan and colourful ceremonies: this is the wild world of Tana Toraja.

There are many places that can be reached on day trips from Rantepao, and longer trips are possible by staying overnight in villages or camping out. The roads to major towns, such as Makale, Palopo, Sa’dan, Batutumonga, Madandan and Bittuang, are paved, but many other roads around Tana Toraja are constructed out of compacted boulders; vehicles won’t get stuck, but your joints get rattled loose. Walking is often the only way to reach the remote villages.

A few areas such as Londa, Lemo, Tampangallo, Ke’te Kesu and, to a lesser extent, Palawa are pretty touristy, with stalls selling trinkets and offering a jaded welcome, but this is because these places are exceptionally beautiful. There are still plenty of lesser-visited gems to get to, especially if you take off on foot far from the tour-bus circuit.

Torajan funeral ceremonies are best visited with a guide, who will be able to explain cultural etiquette; for instance, you should always have a gift for the deceased family and it's customary to wear black or dark clothes.

If you're exploring the region on your own, note that signposts are few and far between, so take a map.

CHOOSING A GUIDE

Many guides in Tana Toraja hold a government-approved licence, obtained by undertaking a course in culture, language and etiquette, and being fluent in the local language. There are also competent guides with no certificate (and incompetent licenced guides). The best way to choose a guide is to sit down and talk through a trip before committing. If you feel you are being pressured (or hit on), this is probably a good sign to go and find a different guide.

Guides will approach you in guesthouses and cafes. Freelance guides charge 350,000Rp or so for an all-day circuit by motorbike, including a funeral if there’s one on. You can also hire a guide with a car (for up to four people) for around 500,000Rp per day, but much of the Toraja region is only accessible on foot or by motorbike so this can be a limiting option. For trekking, guides charge about 500,000Rp per day. All these rates are slightly negotiable but the 100 or so guides in the area try to keep their rates equal and fixed. Larger tour agencies usually charge more than the rates quoted.

Hiring a guide can be useful to help you get your bearings, learn about the culture and cover a lot of ground quickly, but there's no reason why you can't explore the area without one if you have a decent map and a few relevant phrases of Bahasa Indonesia.

2Activities

Trekking

Trekking is the best way to reach isolated areas and to really get a feel for Torajan countryside and the people. Always take good footwear; a water bottle and food; a torch (flashlight) for cave exploration; and an umbrella or waterproof gear – even in the dry season it’s more likely than not to rain. It's highly advisable to take a good map, such as the detailed Tana Toraja (1:85,000) map, published by Periplus. If you’re taking advantage of Torajan hospitality, be sure to pay your way.

Shorter hikes are available, but a few of the popular longer treks include the following routes:

Batutumonga–Lokomata–Pangala–Baruppu–Pulu Pulu–Sapan Three days of superb scenery. Batutumonga to Pangala is on a motorbike-accessible road, while the rest is more serious uphill-trail hiking.
Bittuang–Mamasa Three days.
Pangala–Bolokan–Bittuang Two days on a well-marked trail through pristine villages.
Sa’dan–Sapan–Pulu Pulu–Baruppu–Pangala Three days; tough and mountainous – a real mountain trek.

Rafting

Indosella (%0423-25210; www.sellatours.com; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 111, Rantepao) is the most professional and reliable outfit offering rafting trips on Sungai Sa’dan’s 20 rapids, including a few that are Class IV (read: pretty wild). Rafting trips, including transport to/from your hotel, equipment, guide, insurance and food, cost 800,000Rp per person (minimum two people) for one day on Class II to III rapids, or around US$300 per person for three days on Class III to IV rapids, with overnight stays in local rest huts. Trips get cheaper per person as the tour group gets bigger.

SITE ENTRANCE FEES

Most of the tourist sites around Tana Toraja have an entry fee of 20,000Rp. There is usually a ticket booth at each place, complete with the odd souvenir stall…or 10 or more in the case of Lemo and Londa.

8Getting Around

Bemo & Kijang

Local public transport leaves from stops around central Rantepao, as well as from the scruffy and muddy Terminal Bolu north of Rantepao and the town of Makale; there are regular bemos and Kijangs to all main villages. Some of the more useful services head to the following destinations from Rantepao and Makale:

Bittuang For treks to Mamasa; departs Makale only.

La’bo Via Ke’te Kesu.

Lempo Useful for hiking up to Batutumonga.

Pangala Via Batutumonga.

Sa’dan Usually via Tikala.

Sangalla Departs Makale only.

Motorbike & Bicycle

Motorbikes (rental from 60,000Rp per day) and mountain bikes (from 40,000Rp) are available through hotels and agencies. Remember that roads out of Rantepao and Makale are good but often windy, steep and narrow, so they are more suitable for experienced motorcyclists. Bikes can be used along some walking routes, but the trails are often very muddy and rocky.

Batutumonga

One of the easiest places to stay overnight in Tana Toraja, and also one of the most beautiful, Batutumonga occupies a dramatic ridge on the slopes of Gunung Sesean. From here you will have panoramic views of Rantepao and the Sa’dan Valley, and stunning sunrises. It's located about 20km north of Rantepao via Deri, so you could day-trip here for some hiking and a local lunch.

4Sleeping & Eating

MentirotikuGUESTHOUSE$

(%0813 4257 9588; r 125,000-350,000Rp)

With commanding views and landscaped grounds, this place has very authentic traditional tongkonan crash pads – thin mattresses squashed together in a tiny space – plus less interesting modern rooms with private bathrooms. The huge restaurant (geared for tour groups) serves decent, though not great, Indo-Toraja dishes for 30,000Rp to 50,000Rp. Mentirotiku is on the roadside before Batutumonga.

Mama YosGUESTHOUSE$

(%0812 4260 5043; per person incl breakfast & dinner 125,000Rp)

Mama's simple wooden home has a row of small, clean rooms with mattresses on the floor and a basic mandi (Indonesian-style) shared bathroom. No English spoken. It's right on the roadside before Batutumonga.

Coffee Shop & Wisma BarandeGUESTHOUSE$

(%0812 4177 7417; r 150,000Rp)

Extremely simple but clean concrete rooms (with balconies) below an attractive, orderly coffee shop and restaurant (good for snacks). It's very quiet here. Located in Tinimbayo village, 2km east of Batutumonga.

8Getting There & Away

Bemo (12,000Rp, one hour) buzz up to Batutumonga from Terminal Bolu in Rantepao. Sometimes the bemo only goes as far as Lempo (a steep, but pleasant 2km walk away).

North of Rantepao

With dramatic bowls of cascading rice terraces, small villages of tongkonan and lots of harder-to-reach sights that don't make it on every tour-bus itinerary, the north is the most scenic region of Tana Toraja.

For good shopping, head to the weaving centre of Sa'dan (12km north of Rantepao; take a bemo from Terminal Bolu for 7000Rp), where local women set up a market to sell their woven cloth. It’s all handmade on simple looms, though not all is produced in the village.

2Activities

There are some good options for day walks in the area.

The walk from Batutumonga to Tikala is a very pleasant downhill hike (five hours on a paved road) through some of the finest scenery in Tana Toraja. From Batutumonga a beautiful walk west takes you to Lokomata, a village with cave graves hewn into a rocky outcrop, and outstanding scenery. Back-track and take a small, unmarked trail down the slopes to Pana, which has ancient hanging graves, and some baby graves in nearby trees. You can see tiny villages with towering tongkonan, women pounding rice, men scrubbing their buffalo and children splashing in pools. The path ends at Tikala and, from there, regular bemos return to Rantepao. Alternatively, back-track through Lempo to Deri, the site of rock graves; walk down to the Rantepao–Sa’dan road and catch a bemo back to Rantepao.

At 2150m above sea level Gunung Sesean isn't the highest peak in Sulawesi, but it’s one of the most popular for hiking. The summit is accessible via a trail from Batutumonga. The return trip to the summit takes five hours. A guide is a good idea if you’re inexperienced or speak little Bahasa Indonesia.

From Pangala, one of the biggest villages in the region, it’s a lovely 10km hike to Baruppu. Pangala itself has a few streets, a little ayam goreng (fried chicken) stall, and is famous for being the hometown of Pongtiku, a fearless warrior who fought against the Dutch. Pangala is 35km from Rantepao (20,000Rp by bemo).

The traditional village of Palawa, east of Batutumonga, is similarly attractive and not often visited by tour groups; it has tongkonan houses and rice barns. It's possible to overnight in one of the traditional houses, but this can only be organised with a guide as part of a trek. In the dry season you can walk southwest, fording a river and walking through rice fields to Pangli, which has tau tau and house graves, and then to Bori, the site of an impressive rante (ceremonial ground) and some towering megaliths. About 1km south of Bori, Parinding also has tongkonan houses and rice barns. From here you can walk back to Rantepao or on to Tikala.

COFFEE IN TORAJA

Famous for its earthy, full-bodied taste (spicy, smokey and caramel notes, low acidity and a crisp finish), Toraja is one of Indonesia’s most highly regarded regional coffees. Tana Toraja is one of the few areas where the Arabica bean (which is harder to cultivate and less disease resistant than other kinds) dominates, accounting for 96% of local cultivation. Due to the mountainous terrain, the crop is mostly grown on smallholdings, with low annual yields.

Coffee was introduced to Toraja in the mid-19th century by the Dutch, who controlled production. As its value increased exponentially, a ‘coffee war’ erupted between Bugis and Toraja over trade routes in 1890.

Today most Torajan coffee is certified organic and produced by indigenous farmers: the volcanic soil, relatively cool climate and altitude (1400m to 1900m) is perfect for premium Arabica production. Coffee from the cooperative Petani Kopi Organik Toraja has fair-trade certification and is available in North America and Europe.

Torajan coffee is particularly sought after in Japan, where it’s branded as Toarco Toraja. In the Toraja Utara district alone, 7000 small-scale farmers sell coffee beans to Toarco, accounting for an average of 50% of their income; this is way more than rice, for example.

You can tour the Toarco coffee plantation ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 4380 0288; Bokin village; 1hr tours 10,000Rp; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat), located near the village of Bokin, 14km southeast of Rantepao, and learn all about coffee production. Most of the beans are exported to Japan. You'll explore the grounds in company Jeeps. English-speaking guides are sometimes available; call and reserve a tour in advance.

West of Rantepao

About 2km west across the river from Rantepao, Gunung Singki (930m) is a steep hill with a slippery, overgrown hiking trail to the summit. From the top you'll get panoramic views across Rantepao and the surrounding countryside. Return to the road and head to Siguntu (7km from Rantepao), which offers more superb views of the valleys and Rantepao.

The 3km walk from Siguntu to the Rantepao–Makale road at Alang Alang is also pleasant. Stop on the way at the traditional village of Mendoe. From Alang Alang, where a covered bridge crosses the river, head a few hundred metres to Londa, back to Rantepao, or remain on the western side of the river and continue walking south to the villages of Langda and Madandan.

South of Rantepao

There are many popular cultural sights in this region and most are accessible by car. It’s not a great region for walking, but it is suitable for a motorbike day tour.

1Sights

Tour buses love this area for the easy access but also because the sights are simply stunning.

KarasikVILLAGE

On the outskirts of Rantepao, just off the road to Makale, Karasik has traditional-style houses arranged around a cluster of megaliths on a hill.

Buntu PuneVILLAGE

Buntu Pune village has two fine tongkonan houses and six rice barns. According to local legend, one of the two houses was built by a nobleman named Pong Marambaq at the beginning of the 20th century. During Dutch rule he was appointed head of the local district, but planned to rebel and was subsequently exiled to Ambon (Maluku), where he died. His body was returned to Tana Toraja and buried at the hill to the north of Buntu Pune.

Ke'te KesuVILLAGE

About 5km south of Rantepao, Ke’te Kesu can get busy with tour groups in high season. The village is renowned for its woodcarving and traditional tongkonan and rice barns. On the cliff face behind the village there are some cave graves and very old hanging graves. Rotting coffins are suspended on wooden beams under an overhang. Others, full of bones and skulls, lie rotting in strategic piles.

Sullukang & PalatokkeCAVE, GRAVE

From Ke’te Kesu you can walk on a paved road to Sullukang, which has a rante (ceremonial ground) marked by a number of large, rough-hewn megaliths, and on to Palatokke. In this beautiful area of lush rice paddies and traditional houses, there is an enormous cliff face containing several cave graves and hanging graves. Access to the caves is difficult (there's a steep path with rubble to scramble over), but the scenery makes it worthwhile. From Palatokke there are roads to La’bo and Randanbatu, where there are more graves, and on to Sangalla, Suaya and Makale.

LondaCAVE, GRAVE

(entry by guided tours 30,000Rp)

At Londa, 6km south of Rantepao, you'll find an extensive (and very popular) burial cave below a massive cliff face; its entrance is guarded by a balcony of tau tau. Inside there's a collection of coffins, many of them rotted away, and bones lying either scattered or heaped in piles. A local myth says that the people buried here are the descendants of Tangdilinoq, chief of the Toraja. Mandatory English-speaking guides with oil lamps accompany all visitors through the cave.

If you’re thin, and don’t suffer from claustrophobia, squeeze through the tunnel that connects the two main caves, passing some interesting stalactites and stalagmites. Rantepao–Makale bemo will drop you off at the turn-off, about 2km from the cave. Visit in the morning for the best photos.

TilangaSPRING

(admisssion 10,000Rp)

Ten kilometres south of Rantepao, off the Rantepao–Makale road, Tilanga is a lovely, natural cool-water swimming pool. You can swim, but don’t be surprised if some friendly eels come to say hello. It's best visited during the rainy season.

LemoGRAVE

The best-known burial area in Tana Toraja is Lemo, 10km south of Rantepao. The sheer rock face has a whole series of balconies for tau tau. The biggest balcony has a dozen figures with white eyes and black pupils, and outstretched arms like spectators at a sports event. It’s a good idea to go before 9am for the best photos. A Rantepao–Makale bemo drops you at the turn-off to the burial site, from where it’s 15-minutes' walk to the tau tau.

According to local legend, these graves are for descendants of a Toraja chief who built his house on top of the cliff into which the graves are now cut.

East of Rantepao

This region is often visited on day tours heading between north and south Tana Toraja. It's flatter than the north and beautiful, with plenty of rice fields, sleepy traditional villages and grazing buffalo.

1Sights

MaranteVILLAGE

Marante is a fine traditional village, 5km from Rantepao, just north of the road to Palopo. Near Marante there are stone and hanging graves with several tau tau, skulls on the coffins and a cave with scattered bones. From Marante you can cross the river on the suspension bridge and walk to other pretty villages set in rice fields.

NanggalaVILLAGE

This village has a particularly grandiose traditional house and an impressive fleet of 14 rice barns. The rice barns have a bizarre array of motifs carved into them, including depictions of soldiers with guns, Western women and cars. Keep an eye out for a colony of huge black bats hanging from trees at the end of the village. It's about 16km southeast of Rantepao; take a bemo (6000Rp) from Terminal Bolu.

2Activities

From Nanggala you can walk south to Paniki, a tough hike (about 7.5km, five hours) along a dirt track up and down the hills. The trail starts next to the rice barns, and along the way are coffee-plantation machines grinding away. From Paniki walk (two hours) to Ledo and Buntao (15km from Rantepao), which has some house graves and tau tau. Alternatively, catch a bemo from Paniki to Rantepao. About 2km from Buntao is Tembamba, which has more graves and is noted for its fine scenery. Regular bemos run from Paniki via Tembamba back to Rantepao

East of Makale

This area is pretty far away from the tourist heartland, which means less crowds, and there are two very intriguing sights: the graves at Tampangallo and Kambira.

1Sights

oTampangalloGRAVE

Tampangallo's tau tau are some of the most impressive in Tana Toraja. Take a Kijang from Makale to Sangalla; get off about 1km after the turn-off to Suaya, and walk a short distance (less than 1km) through the rice fields to Tampangallo. The approach, following a small stream and rice paddies is beautiful. You'll be greeted with a pile of skulls by the entrance.

The graves belong to the chiefs of Sangalla, descendants of the mythical divine being Tamborolangiq, who is believed to have introduced the caste system and death rituals into Torajan society.

Kambira Baby GravesGRAVE

Torajans traditionally bury babies in trees and this is one of the biggest of such graves in the region, holding around 20 deceased infants. By Torajan definition a baby is a child who hasn't yet grown teeth. The site is a shady, tranquil spot. The babies' bodies are buried upright and the belief is that they will continue to grow with the tree. Kambira is 1km south of Sangalla and served by Kijang from Makale.

GETTING TO THE TOGEAN ISLANDS FROM TANA TORAJA

Many visitors want to get from Tana Toraja to the Togean Islands, and fast. Unfortunately, this is Sulawesi, and fast doesn't translate well along the winding, narrow mountain roads. Here are your options:

Cheapest but longest Bus to Tentena; overnight or longer in Tentena; bus to Ampana; overnight in Ampana; ferry to Togean Islands. Total time: about three days.
Quicker but tough-going Bus to Poso; minibus from Poso to Ampana; ferry to Togeans. Total time: two to 2½ days.
Most comfortable and quickest Luxury overnight bus to Makassar; flight to Gorontalo; evening ferry to Togeans. Total time: 1½ days.

There are numerous other possibilities including back-tracking to Makassar and flying to Poso or Luwuk and then travelling overland to Ampana for the ferry.

The price for a private air-conditioned car to drive from Rantepao to Ampana, with an overnight break in Tentena, is about 2,200,000Rp. Sharing a car can be a great option, allowing you to stop as you wish for photographs and meals.

Any method is tiring, however, and will ultimately leave you happy to have a beach to lie on for a few days.