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Accommodation

Accommodation in Indonesia ranges from a basic box with a mattress to the finest five-star luxury resorts. Costs vary considerably across the archipelago, but in general Indonesia is one of the better bargains in Southeast Asia.

Travellers centres have plenty of reasonably priced food and accommodation. In Bali and other touristed areas like the Gilis, Labuanbajo on Flores, etc, you'll have a wide range of sleeping choices. Options diminish quickly as you get off the beaten track, although lavish resorts, surf camps and idyllic yet modest getaways can be found across the archipelago.

Accommodation attracts a combined tax and service charge (called 'plus plus') of 21%. In budget places, this is generally included in the price, but check first. Many midrange and top-end places will add it on, which can add substantially to your bill.

Rates quoted in this book include tax and are those that travellers are likely to pay during the high season. Nailing down rates is difficult, as some establishments publish the rates they actually plan to charge, while others publish rates that are pure fantasy, fully expecting to discount by 50%.

Shop online and contact hotels directly to find the best rates. There’s no one formula that works across Indonesia.

Hotels

Hotels in tourist areas can be excellent at any price range. But elsewhere in Indonesia, standards quickly fall: slack maintenance and uneven service are common, although staff are usually cheery.

Budget Hotels

The cheapest accommodation is in small places that are simple but clean and comfortable. Names usually include the word 'losmen,' 'homestay,' 'inn' or 'pondok.' Standards vary widely. Expect:

Maybe air-con

Maybe hot water

Sometimes no window

Private bathroom with shower and sometimes a Western-style toilet

Often a pool (on Bali)

Simple breakfast

Midrange Hotels

Many hotels have a range of rooms, from budget to midrange. The best may be called VIP or some other moniker. In addition to what you'll get at a budget hotel, expect:

Balcony/porch/patio

Satellite TV

Small fridge

Usually wi-fi

Top-End Hotels

Top-end hotels can range from international chains in Jakarta to beautiful resorts on Bali and lavish getaways elsewhere. Expect:

Superb service

Views – ocean, lush valleys and rice fields or private gardens

Spa

Maybe a private pool

SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

Accommodation rates are for high season (May to September and Christmas/New Year) and may drop during low season.

The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom. Unless otherwise stated relevant taxes are included in the price.

BALI & LOMBOK

$ less than 450,000Rp

$$ 450,000–1,400,000Rp

$$$ more than 1,400,000Rp

REST OF INDONESIA

$ less than 250,000Rp

$$ 250,000–800,000Rp

$$$ more than 800,000Rp

Camping

Camping in national parks is popular among Indonesian youth, though formal camping grounds with power and other facilities are rare. Outside of the parks, camping is unknown, and villagers will regard campers as a source of entertainment. Some Kalimantan and Papua treks may include camping as will some mountain treks such as Gunung Rinjani on Lombok. Guides usually supply gear.

Hostels

Indonesia didn't used to have many hostels, mainly because there are so many inexpensive guesthouses. But now you can find hostels in Jakarta, Bali, the Gilis and beyond, including Flores.

Staying in Villages

In many places in Indonesia you'll often be welcome to stay in the villages. If the town has no hotel, ask for the kepala desa (village head), who is generally very hospitable and friendly, offering you not only a roof over your head in a homestay, but also meals. Consider the following:

You may not get a room of your own, just a bed.

Payment is usually expected: about the same price as a cheap losmen (50,000Rp to 100,000Rp) as a rule of thumb. The kepala desa may suggest an amount, but often it is terserah (up to you), and you should always offer to pay.

While the village head's house sometimes acts as an unofficial hotel, you are a guest and often an honoured one. Elaborate meals may be prepared just for you. It's also a good idea to have a gift or two to offer – cigarettes, photographs or small souvenirs from your country are popular.

Homestays and village stays are a great way to socialise with families and neighbours, contribute to the local economy and experience life at a much closer level.

Villages on Baliem Valley trekking routes often have basic guesthouses for tourists.

DON'T FORGET TO PACK...

An emergency stash of cash for remote areas or when ATMs are down.

Sunscreen and insect repellent; both are hard to find outside tourist areas.

A set of earplugs for the rooster, mosque and traffic wake-up calls.

A torch (flashlight).

A sarong – which can be used for everything from a blanket to a beach mat, sheet, mattress cover, towel, sunshade, cover-up (for mosques) and, well, as an actual sarong.

Villas & Long-Term Accommodation

Luxury villas are popular accommodation on Bali, although they are not without their environmental costs in terms of water usage and placement amidst once pristine rice fields. Many come with pools, views, beaches and more. Often the houses are staffed and you have the services of a cook, driver etc.

Rates range from under US$200 per night for a modest villa to US$1200 per night and much more for your own tropical estate. There are often deals, especially in the low season, and several couples sharing can make something grand affordable.

Some things to keep in mind and ask about when renting a villa:

How far is the villa from the beach and nightlife?

Is a driver or car service included?

If there is a cook, is food included?

Is laundry included?

For longer stays, you can find deals easily for US$800 a month. Look in the Bali Advertiser (www.baliadvertiser.biz) or search Facebook. If your tastes are simple, you can find basic bungalows for US$300 a month.

Customs Regulations

Indonesia has the usual list of prohibited imports, including drugs, weapons, fresh fruit and anything remotely pornographic. Items allowed include the following:

200 cigarettes (or 50 cigars or 100g of tobacco)

a ‘reasonable amount’ of perfume

1L of alcohol

Surfers with more than two or three boards may be charged a 'fee', and this could apply to other items if the officials suspect that you aim to sell them in Indonesia. If you have nothing to declare, customs clearance is usually quick.

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

It's important to know what your own embassy can and can't do to help you if you get into trouble. Generally speaking, it won't be much help if whatever trouble you're in is remotely your own fault. Remember that you are bound by the laws of the country you are in. In genuine emergencies you might get some assistance, but only if other channels have been exhausted.

Foreign embassies are located in Jakarta; Bali and Medan have a few consulates. There are also some in towns close to foreign borders.

Bali

Australian ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-241 118; www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au; Jl Tantular 32, Denpasar; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)

The Australian consulate has a consular sharing agreement with Canada.

US ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-233 605; BaliConsularAgency@state.gov; Jl Hayam Wuruk 310, Renon, Denpasar; h9am-noon & 1-3.30pm Mon-Fri)

Jakarta

Australian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2550 5555; www.indonesia.embassy.gov.au; Jln HR Rasuna Said Kav C 15-16, Jakarta Selatan)

Brunei Darussalam EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3190 6080; www.mofat.gov.bn; Jln Teuku Umar No 51, Menteng)

Canadian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2550 7800; www.jakarta.gc.ca; 6th fl, World Trade Centre, Jln Jenderal Sudirman Kav 29-31)

Dutch EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-524 8200; http://indonesia.nlembassy.org; Jln HR Rasuna Said Kav S-3)

French EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2355 7600; www.ambafrance-id.org; Jl MH Thamrin No 20)

German EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3985 5000; www.jakarta.diplo.de; Jl MH Thamrin No 1)

Malaysian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-522 4974; www.kln.gov.my/web/idn_jakarta/home; Jln HR Rasuna Said Kav X/6, No 1-3, Kuningan)

New Zealand EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2995 5800; www.nzembassy.com; 10th fl, Sentral Senayan 2, Jl Asia Afrika No 8)

Papua New Guinea EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-725 1218; www.kundu-jakarta.com; 6th fl, Panin Bank Centre, Jl Jenderal Sudirman 1)

Singaporean EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2995 0400; www.mfa.gov.sg/jkt; Block X/4 Kav 2, Jl HR Rasuna Said)

UK EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2356 5200; ukinindonesia.fco.gov.uk; Jl Patra Kuningan Raya Blok L5-6)

US EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3435 9000; jakarta.usembassy.gov; Jl Medan Merdeka Selatan, No 3-5)

Kupang

Timor-Leste ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813-3936 7558; Jl Eltari II; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 2pm Fri)

The visa office for Timor-Leste.

Medan

Malaysian ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-453 1342; www.kln.gov.my/web/idn_medan; Jl Diponegoro 43)

Food

Indonesia has a vast array of culinary delights and regional specialties.

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following ranges represent the average cost of standard meals.

BALI & LOMBOK

$ less than 60,000Rp

$$ 60,000–250,000Rp

$$$ more than 250,000Rp

REST OF INDONESIA

$ less than 50,000Rp

$$ 50,000–200,000Rp

$$$ more than 200,000Rp

Insurance

A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is essential. There is a wide variety of policies, most sold online; make certain your policy will cover speedy medical evacuation from anywhere in Indonesia.

Theft is a potential problem in Indonesia, so make sure that your policy covers expensive items adequately. Many policies have restrictions on laptops and expensive camera gear, and refunds are often for depreciated value, not replacement value.

Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you're already on the road.

Internet Access

Indonesia is getting wired, though speed varies from fast to painfully slow.

Wi-fi (pronounced 'wee-fee' in Indonesia) is commonly available in hotels except in rural areas. It is often free but watch out for hotels that may charge ridiculous rates by the hour or by data use.

Data through your smartphone is often the fastest way to connect to the internet. 3G service is widespread.

Legal Matters

Drugs, gambling and pornography are illegal; the executions of two Australian nationals of the so-called Bali Nine (among others) in 2015 for drug offences serve as a grim reminder.

It is an offence to engage in paid work without a formal working permit.

Visa length of stay is strictly enforced; many a careless tourist has seen the inside of an immigration detention facility or paid large fines.

Corruption remains a fact of life. If you are pulled over for a dubious traffic infringement, be polite and respectful as the officer lectures you and then suggests an alternative to a trip to the police station and a courthouse date. Generally, 50,000Rp is plenty, but 100,000Rp is more the norm on Bali.

In the case of an accident involving serious injury or death, drive straight to the nearest police station as 'mob rule' can prevail, with blame falling on the foreigner.

If you need to report a crime, head to a police station in respectable dress with an Indonesian friend or interpreter in tow but don't expect much.

If you find yourself in serious trouble with the law, contact your embassy or consulate immediately. They will not be able to arrange bail but will be able to provide you with an interpreter and may be able to suggest legal counsel.

STOPPING CHILD SEX-TOURISM

Indonesia has become a destination for foreigners seeking to sexually exploit local children. A range of socio-economic factors render many children and young people vulnerable to such abuse and some individuals prey upon this vulnerability. The sexual abuse and exploitation of children has serious, life-long and even life-threatening consequences for the victims. Strong laws exist in Indonesia to prosecute offenders and many countries also have extraterritorial legislation which allows nationals to be prosecuted in their own country for these crimes.

Travellers can help stop child sex-tourism by reporting suspicious behaviour. Reports can be made to the Anti-Human Trafficking Unit (021 721 8098) of the Indonesian police. If you know the nationality of the individual, you can contact their embassy directly.

For more information, contact the following organisations:

ECPAT (www.ecpat.net) A global network working on these issues, with over 70 affiliate organisations around the world. Child Wise (www.childwise.org.au) is the Australian member of ECPAT.

Humantrafficking.org International group with numerous links to groups working to prevent human exploitation in Indonesia.

LGBT Travellers

Gay travellers in Indonesia should follow the same precautions as straight travellers: avoid public displays of affection. This is especially important in conservative areas such as Aceh, where two women hugging were sent for 'reeducation' by religious police in 2015.

Gay men in Indonesia are referred to as homo or gay; lesbians are lesbi.

Indonesia's community of transvestite/transsexual waria – from the words wanita (woman) and pria (man) – has always had a very public profile; also known by the less polite term banci.

Islamic groups proscribe homosexuality, but queer-bashing is rare.

Bali is especially LGBT-friendly, with a large community of expats and people from elsewhere in Indonesia. Although even here, there was controversy when a gay wedding was held at a resort in 2015.

Indonesian LGBT organisations include:

GAYa Nusantara (www.gayanusantara.or.id) publishes the monthly magazine GAYa Nusantara.

Gaya Dewata (YGD, www.gayadewata.com) is Bali's oldest and only community-run LGBT organisation.

Maps

Locally produced maps are often inaccurate. Periplus produces useful maps of most of the archipelago and the major cities, although the data for fast-changing areas such as Bali can be very out of date. Google maps is making quick progress around the nation.

Hikers will have little chance of finding accurate maps of remote areas. It's far more useful (and wise) to employ the services of a local guide, who will be able to navigate seemingly uncharted territory.

Money

The unit of currency used in Indonesia is the rupiah (Rp). Coins of 50Rp, 100Rp, 200Rp, 500Rp and 1000Rp are in circulation. Notes come in 2000Rp, 5000Rp, 10,000Rp, 20,000Rp, 50,000Rp and 100,000Rp denominations. For change in amounts below 50Rp, expect to receive a few sweets.

Try to carry a fair amount of money in bills 20,000Rp and under as getting change for larger bills is often a problem.

By government decree, all businesses are required to price goods and services in Rupiah. Many tourist outfits such as hotels and dive shops try to price in dollars or euros to avoid currency fluctuations.

ATMs

ATMs are common across Indonesia except in rural areas; most now accept cards affiliated with international networks. Bank BNI, with ATMs across the nation, is reliable.

ATMs in Indonesia have a maximum limit for withdrawals; sometimes it is 2,000,000Rp, but it can be as low as 500,000Rp, which is not much in foreign-currency terms.

Many ATMs have a sticker that specifies whether the machine dispenses 50,000Rp or 100,000Rp notes.

Always carry a sizeable amount of rupiah when you are travelling outside of cities and tourist areas as ATM networks go down and/or you can be on an island where the only ATM is broken or non-existent.

Credit Cards

In cities and touristed areas (eg Bali), credit cards will be accepted at midrange and better hotels and resorts. More expensive shops as well as travel agents will also accept them but often there will be a surcharge of around 3%.

MasterCard and Visa are the most widely accepted credit cards. Cash advances are possible at many ATMs or banks.

Before leaving home, inform your credit card issuer that you will be travelling in Indonesia, otherwise your account may be frozen for suspected fraud the first time you try to use it.

RUPIAH REDENOMINATION

Indonesia has plans to redenominate the rupiah by removing three digits from the currency, although the timing of this has been debated for years. For example, the 20,000Rp note would become the 20Rp note. Changing the national currency is likely to be a very complex process, with many implications for travellers. These include:

New notes will be introduced that are identical to the current ones, with the exception of the final three zeros missing. Long-term plans call for all-new designs.

The government stresses that current banknotes will retain their value (eg the 100,000Rp note will be the same as the new 100Rp note), however, how this will play out is anyone’s guess. In other nations, such as Russia, there has been widespread refusal to accept old notes, even after government guarantees of their value.

It will likely take years for price lists and computer systems to be fully updated, so it will be up to customers to make certain that they are being charged – and paying – appropriately.

Introduction of the new denominations is likely to occur with little notice to avoid financial upheavals.

Old notes will remain good for at least six years after introduction, the Bank of Indonesia said in 2014.

Moneychangers

The US dollar is the most widely accepted foreign currency in Indonesia. Australian, British, euros and Japanese currencies are exchangeable only in the most touristed areas of Bali and Jakarta.

Outside of cities and tourist areas, banks may only be willing to exchange crisp, new US$100 bills. In many rural areas banks won't offer any exchange.

Moneychangers range from the honest to dishonest. Signs bearing the phrases such as 'official' and 'licensed' are meaningless.

Follow these steps to avoid getting ripped off when exchanging money:

Find out the going exchange rate online. Know that anyone offering a better rate will need to make a profit through other means.

Stick to banks, exchange counters in airports or large and reputable storefront operations.

Skip any place offering too-good exchange rates and claiming to charge no fees or commissions.

Avoid exchange stalls down alleys or in otherwise dubious locations (that sounds obvious but scores of tourists are taken in daily).

Common exchange scams include rigged calculators, sleight of hand schemes, 'mistakes' on the posted rates and demands that you hand over your money before you have counted the money on offer.

Use an ATM to obtain rupiah. Check with your bank about fees; if they are not outrageous you'll avoid carrying large amounts of cash and get a decent exchange rate.

Tipping

Tipping a set percentage is not expected in Indonesia, but if the service is good, you can leave 5000Rp or 10% or more (this is expected on Bali).

Most midrange hotels and restaurants and all top-end hotels and restaurants add 21% to the bill for tax and service (known as ‘plus plus’). The service component is distributed among hotel staff (one hopes).

Hand cash directly to individuals if you think they deserve recognition for their service.

Tip good taxi drivers, porters, people giving you a massage or fetching you a beer on the beach etc; 5000Rp to 10,000Rp is generous.

THE ART OF BARGAINING

Many everyday purchases in Indonesia require bargaining. Accommodation has a set price, but this is usually negotiable in the low season, or if you are staying at the hotel for several days. Bargaining can be an enjoyable part of shopping, so maintain your sense of humour and keep things in perspective. Try following these steps:

Have some idea what the item is worth.

Establish a starting price – ask the seller for their price rather than making an initial offer.

Your first price can be from one-third to two-thirds of the asking price – assuming that the asking price is not outrageous.

With offers and counter-offers, move closer to an acceptable price.

If you don’t get to an acceptable price, you’re entitled to walk – the vendor may call you back with a lower price.

Note that when you name a price, you’re committed – you must buy if your offer is accepted.

Opening Hours

The following are typical opening hours found across Indonesia.

Banks 8am to 2pm Monday to Thursday, 8am to noon Friday, 8am to 11am Saturday.

Government offices Generally 8am to 3pm Monday to Thursday, 8am to noon Friday.

Post offices 8am to 2pm Monday to Friday. (Note: in tourist centres, the main post offices are often open longer and/or on weekends.)

Private business offices 8am to 4pm or 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Many open until noon on Saturday.

Restaurants 8am to 10pm.

Shopping 9am or 10am to 5pm; larger shops and tourist areas to 8pm. Many closed Sunday.

Photography

Indonesia and Indonesians can be very photogenic, but whatever you do, photograph with discretion and manners. It's always polite to ask first, and if the person says no, don't take the photo. A gesture, a smile and a nod are all that is usually necessary.

Post

Sending postcards and normal-sized letters (ie under 20g) by airmail is cheap but not really fast. For anything over 20g, the charge is based on weight. You can send parcels up to 20kg and have them properly wrapped and sealed at any post office.

Every substantial town has a kantor pos (post office). In tourist centres, there are also postal agencies. They are often open long hours and provide postal services. Many will also wrap and pack parcels.

PRACTICALITIES

Media English-language press includes the Jakarta Post and the Jakarta Globe. Both have good websites for news. Pirated DVDs are abundant and most can be played on all-region software, although you usually get what you pay for in terms of viewability. Legitimate copies are uncommon.

Water Tap water is never safe to drink.

Weights & Measures Indonesia uses the international metric system for weights and measures.

Smoking Anti-smoking rules prohibit smoking in many public places but enforcement is uncommon.

Public Holidays

Following are the national public holidays in Indonesia. Unless stated, they vary from year to year. Also, there are many regional holidays.

Tahun Baru Masehi (New Year's Day) 1 January.

Tahun Baru Imlek (Chinese New Year) Falls late January to early February.

Wafat Yesus Kristus (Good Friday) Late March or early April.

Nyepi (Balinese New Year) The island of Bali closes down for one day, usually in March, sometimes in April; it's a cultural marvel, albeit a quiet one.

Hari Buruh (Labour Day) 1 May.

Hari Waisak Marks the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death. Falls in May.

Kenaikan Yesus Kristus (Ascension of Christ) May.

Hari Proklamasi Kemerdekaan (Independence Day) 17 August.

Hari Natal (Christmas Day) 25 December.

The following Islamic holidays have dates that change each year.

Muharram Islamic New Year.

Maulud Nabi Muhammad Birthday of the Prophet Muhammad.

Isra Miraj Nabi Muhammad Ascension of the Prophet Muhammad.

Idul Fitri Also known as Lebaran, this two-day national public holiday marks the end of Ramadan; avoid travel due to crowds.

Idul Adha Islamic feast of the sacrifice.

Safe Travel

It's important to note that, compared with many places in the world, Indonesia is fairly safe. There are some hassles from the avaricious, but most visitors face many more dangers at home. Petty theft occurs, but it is not prevalent.

Alcohol Poisoning

Outside of reputable bars and resorts, it's best to avoid buying arak, the locally produced fermented booze made from rice or palm. Deaths and injuries happen – especially on Bali and the Gilis – when unscrupulous vendors stretch stocks with poisonous chemicals.

Drugs

Indonesia has demonstrated its zero-tolerance policy towards drugs with a spate of high-profile arrests and convictions. The execution by firing squad in 2015 of two Australians convicted of drug offences as part of the 'Bali Nine' should serve as a stark warning.

Random raids of nightclubs in Jakarta and Bali and mandatory urine tests for anyone found with drugs occur regularly (entrapment schemes are not unknown, that dealer may be a cop).

Private parties on Bali have been raided, and hotel owners are required by law to report offenders.

The law does not provide for differentiation of substance types or amounts, whether a full bag of heroin or a few specks of marijuana dust in your pocket.

Pollution

Avoid beaches in built-up areas, especially after storms flush sewage out to the surf. This is especially true of many beaches in south Bali.

Air quality can be terrible in heavily populated areas and across Sumatra during annual land clearances for palm oil plantations.

Safety

Security in touristed areas increased after the 2002 and 2005 Bali bombings but has since been relaxed. The odds you will be caught up in such a tragedy are low. Large luxury hotels that are part of international chains tend to have the best security, though they also make the most tempting targets, as shown in Jakarta in 2003 and 2009.

Security issues in Indonesia are often exaggerated by the foreign media, who portray rambunctious protest rallies and minor incidents of civil unrest as nationwide pandemonium. Foreign governments add to the hype with heavy-handed, blanket travel warnings. While it's true that small sections of Indonesia experience flashes of conflict, overall the archipelago is safe.

GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

It is always worthwhile to check with official government sources before visiting Indonesia in order to check current travel conditions and the overall safety situation. But bear in mind that government sources generally take a conservative and over-cautious view. Follow news sources in order to get a more realistic picture.

Government travel advisories:

Australia www.smartraveller.gov.au

Canada travel.gc.ca

New Zealand www.safetravel.govt.nz

UK www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice

US www.travel.state.gov

Scams

As in most poor countries, plenty of people are out to relieve you of your money in one way or another. It's really hard to say when an 'accepted' practice like overcharging becomes an unacceptable rip-off, but plenty of instances of practised deceit occur.

Con artists exist. Some are smooth-talking guides seeking to lead you to a shop or hotel where they receive commission.

Bali is the home of many scams. And there are continuing reports of short-changing moneychangers. As always, trust your common sense.

Beggers (including children) are usually part of organised groups. Most Indonesians suffer in silence and would never ask for money; consider giving to aid programs if you want to help.

Touts and hawkers are common in tourist areas. Completely ignore them.

Theft

Violent crime is uncommon, but bag-snatching from motorbikes, pickpocketing and theft from rooms and parked cars occurs. Take the same precautions you would in any urban area. Other commonsense tips:

Secure money before leaving an ATM (and don't forget your card!).

Don't leave valuables on a beach while swimming.

Use front desk/in-room safes.

Telephone

Cheap SIM cards and internet calling make it easy to call from Indonesia at reasonable prices.

Internet Calling

Most hotel wi-fi will allow at least some form of internet calling such as Skype to work. Mobile carriers often have an access code so you can make international calls over the internet for about US$0.03 per minute. Ask when you buy your SIM card.

Mobile Phones

SIM cards for mobile phones cost only 5000Rp. They come with cheap rates for calling other countries, starting at US$0.20 per minute.

SIM cards are widely available and easily refilled with credit.

Watch out for vendors who sell SIM cards to visitors for 50,000Rp or more. If they don't come with at least 45,000Rp in credit you are being ripped off.

Reasonably fast 3G data networks are found across the nation.

Data plans average about 200,000Rp for 3.5GB of data.

Mobile numbers start with a four-digit prefix that begins with 08 and has a total of 10 to 12 digits.

Phone Codes

Directory assistance: 108

Indonesia country code: 62

International call prefix: 001

International operator: 102

Time

There are three time zones in Indonesia.

Java, Sumatra, and West and Central Kalimantan are on Western Indonesian Time, which is seven hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

Bali, Nusa Tenggara, South and East Kalimantan, and Sulawesi are on Central Indonesian Time, which is eight hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

Papua and Maluku are on Eastern Indonesian Time, nine hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

In a country straddling the equator, there is of course no daylight-saving time.

Allowing for variations due to summer or daylight-saving time, when it is noon in Jakarta it is 9pm the previous day in San Francisco, midnight in New York, 5am in London, 1pm in Singapore, Bali and Makassar, 2pm in Jayapura and 3pm in Melbourne and Sydney.

Toilets

In most of Indonesia, the bathroom features a large water tank and a plastic scoop. Kamar mandi means bathroom and mandi means to bathe or wash.

Don't go climbing into the water tank – it's your water supply and it's also the supply for every other guest that comes after you. Scoop water out of the tank and pour it over yourself.

Most tourist hotels have showers, many have hot water.

Indonesian toilets are basically holes in the ground with footrests on either side, although Western-style toilets are common in tourist areas. To flush the toilet, reach for the plastic scoop, take water from the tank and pour. Public toilets are rare; find a cafe and smile.

Toilet paper is seldom supplied in public places, though you can easily buy it. Many Indonesians instead use their left hand and copious quantities of water – again, keep that scoop handy. Often there is a wastebasket next to the toilet where the toilet paper should go, as opposed to the easily clogged toilet.

Kamar kecil is Bahasa Indonesia for toilet, but people usually understand 'way-say' (WC). Wanita means women and pria means men.

Tourist Information

Indonesia's Ministry of Tourism has a website (www.indonesia.travel) with decent, basic information.

Most tourist offices in Indonesia offer little of value. Notable exceptions are noted in the text, including tourist offices in Ubud, Bali; Yogyakarta, Java; and the Raja Ampat Tourism Management Office in Sorong, Papua.

Travellers with Disabilities

Indonesia has very little supportive legislation or special programs for people with disabilities, and it's a difficult destination for those with limited mobility.

Very few buildings have disabled access, and even international chain hotels often don't have proper facilities.

Pavements are riddled with potholes, loose manholes, parked motorcycles and all sorts of street life, and are very rarely level for long until the next set of steps. Even the able bodied walk on roads rather than negotiate the hassle of the pavement (sidewalk).

Public transport is difficult; cars with a driver can be hired readily at cheap rates. Guides are found readily in tourist areas and, though not usual, they could be hired as helpers if needed.

Bali, with its wide range of tourist services and facilities, is the most favourable destination for travellers with disabilities although this does not mean it is easy.

Visas

Visas are the biggest headache many travellers face in their Indonesian trip. They are not hard to obtain, but the most common – 30 days – is very short for such a big place. Many travellers find even the 60-day visa restrictive.

The visa situation is constantly in flux. It is essential that you confirm current formalities before you arrive. Failure to meet all the entrance requirements can see you on the first flight out or subject to heavy fines.

No matter what type of visa you are going to use, your passport must be valid for at least six months from the date of your arrival.

At the time of research, the main visa options for visitors to Indonesia are:

Visa in Advance Visitors can apply for a visa before they arrive in Indonesia. Typically this is a visitor's visa, which comes in two flavours: 30 or 60 days. Details vary by country; contact your nearest Indonesian embassy or consulate to determine processing fees and times. Note: this is the only way to obtain a 60-day visitor visa, even if you qualify for Visa on Arrival.

Visa on Arrival Citizens of over 65 countries may apply for a 30-day visa when they arrive at major airports and harbours (but not most land borders). The cost is US$35; be sure to have the exact amount in US currency. Eligible countries include Australia, Canada, much – but not all – of the EU including France, Germany, Ireland, the Netherlands and the UK, plus New Zealand and the USA. VOA renewals for 30 days are possible. If you don't qualify for VOA, you must get a visa in advance.

Visa Free Citizens of dozens of countries can receive a 30-day visa for free upon arrival. But note that this visa cannot be extended and you may be limited to which airports and ports you can use to exit the country, eg the Timor-Leste visa run may not work with this visa.

If you have obtained one of the coveted 60-day visas in advance, be sure the immigration official at the airport gives you a 60-day tourist card.

Fines for overstaying your visa expiration date are 300,000Rp per day and include additional hassles.

Study & Work Visas

You can arrange visas for study, short-term research, visiting family and similar purposes if you have a sponsor, such as an educational institution. These social/cultural (sosial/budaya) visas must be applied for at an Indonesian embassy or consulate overseas. Normally valid for three months on arrival, they can be extended every month after that for up to six months without leaving the country. Fees apply.

People wishing to study or work in Indonesia must apply directly to the Central Immigration Office in Jakarta for a Limited-Stay Visa (Kartu Izin Tinggal Terbatas, or Kitas). First, though, contact your nearest embassy for the most direct avenue and to find out what qualifies as 'study'. Those granted limited stay are issued a Kitas card, which is much-prized among travellers.

If you're planning to work in Indonesia your employer will need to organise your visa – it's a long and complicated process.

Travel Permits

Special permits are required for travel in Papua.

RENEWING YOUR VISA

You can renew a 30-day Visa on Arrival once (but not usually a Visa Free). The procedures are complex:

At least seven days before your visa expires, go to an immigration office. These can usually be found in larger cities and regional capitals.

Bring your passport, a photocopy of your passport and a copy of your ticket out of Indonesia (which should be for a date during the renewal period).

Wear modest clothes, eg men may be required to wear long pants.

Pay a fee of 250,000Rp.You may have to return to the office twice over a three- to five-day period.

One way to avoid the renewal hassle is to use a visa agent such as ChannelOne ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6204 3224; www.channel1.biz; Jl Sunset Road 100X, Kerobokan) on Bali who, for a fee, will do the bureaucratic work for you.

Volunteering

Indonesia offers many opportunities for volunteering; Lonely Planet does not endorse any organisations that we do not work with directly, so it is essential that you do your own thorough research before agreeing to volunteer with/donate to any organisation.

Women Travellers

Plenty of Western women travel in Indonesia either solo or in pairs, and most seem to travel through the country, especially on Bali, without major problems. However, women travelling solo or otherwise may receive unwanted attention. Some considerations:

Dress modestly, especially in conservative Muslim areas. Even the tourist islands of the Gilis have signs asking women not to walk around off the beaches in bikinis. In Aceh, women are expected to wear head scarves and cover their arms, whether they are Muslim or not.

Indonesian men are generally very courteous, however there is a macho element that indulges in puerile behaviour – horn honking, lewd comments etc. Ignore them totally, as Indonesian women do.

If you’re a solo female and you hire a car with driver for several days, it’s not culturally appropriate for a male Muslim driver to be travelling alone with you. A third party will come along as a chaperone.