Cancún is a big, beautiful, contradictory place. For many people, it has all the makings of the ultimate vacation destination: five-star hotels, thick white sand, impossibly blue waters, and a nightlife that never stops. Others chafe at Cancún for seeming more American than Mexican, a place where you need never speak a word of Spanish, never eat at a restaurant you couldn’t find at a mall back home, and never convert your dollars into pesos.
© GARY CHANDLER
Playa Delfines: Located at the far southern end of the Zona Hotelera, this is one of few spots without highrise resorts gobbling up beach space with their chairs and blocking the afternoon sun, and it has a refreshing mix of foreign and local visitors (page 41).
Cancún Nightlife: You don’t have to be on spring break to enjoy Cancún’s nightclubs—but it helps! If the all-night-every-nightclub scene isn’t for you, head downtown for wine bars, jazz clubs, and cafés featuring local guitarists (page 41).
Museo Subacuático de Arte: This remarkable “museum” features hundreds of statues of people of all ages and walks of life, standing on the ocean floor in 12-40 feet of crystal-clear water. The statues are made of material designed to promote coral growth, so they’ll only get more interesting as time passes (page 69).
Isla Contoy: Go island hopping on this popular day trip from Isla Mujeres. A morning boat ride is followed by snorkeling on a rich coral reef, hiking and bird-watching on Contoy’s protected shores, chilling out in the sun, and digging into a fresh fish barbecue on the beach (page 70).
Playa Norte: Surfers need not apply—Isla Mujeres’s best beach has virtually no waves, just soft white sand lapped by glassy turquoise water. Relax under a palm tree or nosh on ceviche at a beachfront restaurant. Playa Norte is great for families, couples, and single sun worshippers (page 72).
Whale Shark Feeding Grounds: Just because they weigh 10 tons and are longer than a Winnebago doesn’t make whale sharks bad snorkeling partners. Get goggles-to-gills with the world’s biggest fish in these krill-rich waters between June and September (page 86).
Both perspectives are true, but one-sided. It’s hard not to cringe at those loud tourists who don’t bother to explore—or even care about—any part of Mexico beyond their beach chairs. Yet those who pooh-pooh Cancún are also selling the city short. Cancún is a working, breathing city that’s vital to Mexico’s economy and imbued with a fascinating history and plenty of “real” Mexican culture for those willing to seek it out. And contrary to impressions, Cancún has accommodations and services for visitors of all budgets and tastes.
Why not take advantage of both sides of Cancún? The resorts, beaches, and nightclubs will blow your mind—don’t miss them! But be sure not to overlook Cancún’s more subtle side, too, from live music in a bohemian downtown café to munching on elote (corn on the cob) sold from a cart in the city’s pleasant central square.
And when you need to, just get away. A 15-minute ferry ride delivers you to the slow-paced island of Isla Mujeres, a sliver of sand surrounded by breathtaking blue waters. Farther north and even more laid-back is Isla Holbox; no cars, no banks, no post office—it’s a world away from Cancún yet reachable in a morning.
HISTORY
Cancún is a new city in a new state. In the 1960s, the Mexican government set out to create the next Acapulco, and surveyors selected a swampy sandbar on the Caribbean coast as the country’s most promising tourist town. Not everyone was convinced: the area was a true backwater—not even a state yet—with no infrastructure and few roads in or out. But Mexico’s planners forged onward, paving roads, building bridges, installing electrical lines. Thousands of mangroves were torn out, sadly, to expand the beaches and make room for hotels. Today’s downtown Cancún started out as a small mainland fishing village that grew rapidly with the influx of workers; it serves much the same purpose today, though now has an economy and dynamic unto itself, including banks, real estate, multinational companies, and more. Cancún officially “opened” in 1974, the same year the territory was elevated to statehood. (The state was named after army general Andrés Quintana Roo and is pronounced keen-TA-nah Roh.) Today, it is one of the top beach destinations in the world and draws nearly 25 percent of all the foreign travelers in Mexico.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
A week will do just fine in Cancún, allowing time enough to get your tan on plus take a day trip or two, such as to Isla Mujeres or one of the nearby Maya ruins. Ten days gives you time to explore deeper and farther, turning a day trip to Isla Mujeres or the Maya ruins into an overnighter, or venturing north to the remote island of Isla Holbox. Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox are small but wonderfully relaxing; if either is your main destination, budget three or four days to experience them fully, but don’t be surprised if you end up staying longer.
You don’t need to rent a car to enjoy Cancún, Isla Mujeres, and Isla Holbox, especially if you don’t plan on moving around much; all can be navigated easily by bus, ferry, taxi, and foot. That said, having a car makes many excursions easier, quicker, and more fun, especially if you’ve got kids in tow. Rather than booking a crowded and expensive tour to, say, Chichén Itzá, you can drive there yourself, arriving before the big groups and then hitting a second ruin or an out-of-the way cenote on the way home. With the price of rental cars surprisingly low, and well-marked roads and highways, it’s certainly worth considering.
ORIENTATION
Cancún’s Zona Hotelera lies on a narrow white-sand island in the shape of a number 7. The 7’s short upper arm leads directly into downtown Cancún, while the longer one (13 kilometers/8 miles) connects to the mainland near the airport. The elbow of the 7 is Punta Cancún—this is the fast-beating heart of the Zona Hotelera’s nightlife, including all the major nightclubs, plus several resorts, hotels, restaurants, and shopping malls. The rest of the resorts and several more malls, restaurants, and water sports agencies are spread along the two arms, especially the southern one. The far southern tip of the 7 is called Punta Nizúc and has a few hotels, plus Cancún’s largest archaeological site (El Rey). Busy Boulevard Kukulcán runs the entire length of the 7, and most addresses in the Zona Hotelera are simply a kilometer marker. Finally, the huge lagoon that’s enclosed by the mainland and the Zona Hotelera is called Laguna Nichupté, and is a popular spot for fishing, waterskiing, and boating.
Downtown Cancún is on the mainland and is divided into numbered super manzanas (square blocks, or SM for short). Avenida Tulum is downtown’s main thoroughfare; west of Avenida Tulum is Parque Las Palapas (downtown’s central plaza), and beyond that Avenida Yaxchilán. Most of downtown Cancún’s hotels, restaurants, and music venues are on or around Parque Las Palapas and Avenida Yaxchilán, primarily in SMs 22-25.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONES
Cancún has three notable archaeological sites, two in the Zona Hotelera and a third north of town, near the Isla Mujeres ferry. None compare in size or wow factor to the Yucatán Peninsula’s major sites, but they are still worth visiting, and the Zona Hotelera ones can be easily combined with a day at the beach.
El Rey Archaeological Zone
At the southern end of the Zona Hotelera, across from Playa Delfines, Ruínas El Rey (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 17.5, 8am-5pm daily, US$3.50) consists of several platforms, two plazas, and a small temple and pyramid, all arranged along an ancient 500-meter (1,640-foot) roadway. The ruins get their name (Ruins of the King) from a skeleton found during excavation and believed to be that of, what else, a king. The ruins date from the late Post-Classic period (AD 1200-1400); signage is available in English and Spanish. Last visitors are admitted at 4:30pm.
The ruins are home to literally hundreds of iguanas, some quite beefy, which makes a visit here all the more interesting.
Yamil Lu’um Archaeological Zone
Lodged between Park Royal Pirámides and the Westin Lagunamar, Yamil Lu’um (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, 8am-5pm daily, free) consists of two small temples built between AD 1200 and 1550: Templo del Alacrán (Temple of the Scorpion) and Templo de la Huella (Temple of the Handprint); unfortunately neither the scorpion nor the handprint that gave the temples their names is visible anymore. The temples were built on Cancún’s highest point, suggesting they were used as watchtowers or navigational aids. The ruins can be reached through the Park Royal (nonguests may need to ask permission) and are visible from the beach at Playa Marlin.
El Meco Archaeological Zone
Archaeologists think El Meco (Av. López Portillo s/n, 8am-3pm daily, US$4) was a major gateway to and from Isla Mujeres—fitting considering it’s located just north of the modern-day ferry terminal at Puerto Júarez. The ancient city seems to have thrived in its role as a port town, building the tallest pyramid along this part of the coast before collapsing abruptly around AD 600. It was reoccupied four or five centuries later, probably as an outpost for the powerful Chichén Itzá kingdom. The site is smaller than El Rey, in the Zona Hotelera, but the structures are more substantial.
MUSEUMS
Museo Maya de Cancún
Housed in a gorgeous new building at the southern end of Zona Hotelera, Museo Maya de Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 16.5, tel. 998/885-3842, 9am-6pm daily, US$5) displays hundreds of Maya artifacts in bright airy display rooms, including new discoveries and others that have never been displayed before. Two permanent exhibition rooms are dedicated to finds from Quintana Roo and the greater Maya world, respectively, while a third room hosts temporary displays. Many of the displays lack English translations, though that will likely be fixed over time. Note that only Mexican pesos are accepted.
Museo Pelopidas
Museo Pelopidas (La Isla Shopping Village, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, tel. 998/146-5151, www.museopelopidas.com, 10am-10pm daily, free) is a large, sleek, somewhat gimmicky, yet mildly interesting art gallery on the 2nd floor of a Zona Hotelera mall. Check out the “New Originals”: a roomful of high-quality hand-painted imitations of masterworks by Klimt, Picasso, and others, which bear slight but deliberate alterations to distinguish them from forgeries. Half-hour guided tours are offered in English and Spanish at 11am, 1pm, 4pm, and 6pm.
PARQUE LAS PALAPAS
Parque Las Palapas is a classic Mexican plaza, mostly, where locals congregate most nights and tourists have a chance to enjoy Cancún’s quotidian side. The plaza doesn’t have the grand cathedral and government buildings typical of Mexico’s older colonial cities—remember Cancún isn’t even 50 years old—but it’s still a place for adults to gossip with friends, for teenagers and couples to circle about, and for youngsters to chase balls and ride electric cars in the spacious central square. Dozens of stands and street carts sell nieve (ice cream), elote (corn on the cob, also available in a cup, served with chile and mayo), and knickknacks of all sorts. The music and neon lights can be a bit much, but just as often there’s an interesting performance scheduled for the plaza’s huge palapa-roofed stage, whether live music or traditional dance. Along the edges of the main park are smaller squares, some used for art expositions, others favored by young bohos for plucking guitars and engaging in the occasional drum circle.
ZONA HOTELERA BEACHES
Cancún’s beaches are back! A series of severe hurricanes had left the famous shoreline rocky and sloped for a few years, and everyone wondered if the beaches would ever recover. But thanks to emergency efforts by the government (including the dredging of thousands of tons of sand) and the gradual blessings of Mother Nature, Cancún’s beaches are as wide and glorious as ever—in some places, even better than before. Will they last? Hard to say. Currents and sand are always shifting, and there’s simply no way to know how a particular storm—or even an overall increase in the number and strength of storms, as most scientists predict—will affect Cancún’s beaches. Only time will tell, so enjoy then while you can!
Be aware that the surf along the Zona Hotelera’s long, east-facing arm can be heavy, and drownings and near-drownings do occur. There are lifeguards near all public access points, and colored flags (Green is Safe, Yellow is Caution, Red is Closed) for reference. But nothing is more important than common sense: Don’t swim if the conditions (or your own condition) aren’t suitable. The beaches along the short, north-facing leg are much calmer. For really calm waters head to Isla Mujeres, where there are no waves and the water in places is only waist deep more than 75 meters (250 feet) from shore. The Laguna Nichupté is not recommended for swimming because of pollution and crocodiles.
Playa Caracol
Playa Caracol (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 8.5) has a small stretch of beach right at the public access point, but it’s not too pleasant and often very crowded. The beach is much better just east of there, in front of the Fiesta Americana Coral Beach, but you have to cut through the hotel to get there and the hotel lounge chairs take up most of the beach.
Playa Gaviota Azul
The pathway to Playa Gaviota Azul (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 10), a huge, beautiful beach, is between The City nightclub and Forum by the Sea mall, and it extends well north and south of there (merging with Playa Chac Mool just to the south) with plenty of room to set up a towel and umbrella. Parking can be tricky here—better to arrive by bus or taxi—but you’ve got plenty of eating and shopping options, if you need a break from the sun. The City operates a beach club called Cabana Beach (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 10, tel. 998/848-8385, http://cabanabeach.mx, 9am-5pm daily, US$10 pp), which is open to the public and has raised wooden beach beds with flowing linen curtains, full bar and restaurant service, swimming pool, and DJ. It can definitely be a scene, but that’s pretty much the point.
Playa Marlín
Playa Marlín (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5) is a clean, attractive beach—narrower and steeper than it was before Hurricane Wilma, but still a nice spot. Look for the access point between Plaza Kukulcán mall and the police and fire station; there’s plenty of parking on the dirt road parallel to the beach, and the mall has restaurants and a kids club just a few steps away.
Playa Ballenas
Playa Ballenas (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 14.5) is a long, pretty beach, with an access path between the Hard Rock and Secrets resorts. There is no food or drink service on the beach, but look for a few small shops selling water and snacks on the frontage road rear the public access point.
Look for these signs in the Zona Hotelera for public access to the beach.
© GARY CHANDLER
There is a notion that the high-rise hotels have monopolized Cancún’s best beaches, but this is only partly true. While most hotels do front prime real estate, all beach areas in Mexico are public (except for military zones). Hotels cannot, by law, prohibit you or anyone else from lying out on a towel and enjoying the sun and water. Many high-end hotels subvert this by making it difficult or uncomfortable for nonguests to use “their” beaches: Very few maintain exterior paths, and others spread guest-only beach chairs over the best parts. (In the hotels’ defense, they also typically do a good job of keeping their areas clear of trash and seaweed, which can mar otherwise beautiful beaches.) If your hotel has a nice beach area, you’re all set. If not, you can just walk through a hotel lobby to the beach—as a foreigner, you are very unlikely to be stopped. (Sadly, locals are likely to be nabbed if they do the same thing.) But even that is unnecessary: The city maintains several public access points marked with prominent blue and white signs along Boulevard Kukulcán. The area right around the access point is often crowded, but you can walk a couple hundred meters in either direction to have more breathing room. One public access point—Playa Delfines, at the southern end of the Hotel Zone—has no nearby hotels and is used by a refreshing mix of Mexican and foreign beachgoers.
beach scene along Cancún’s Zona Hotelera
© GARY CHANDLER
Playa Delfines
Located at the far southern end of the Zona Hotelera, Playa Delfines (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 17.5) is situated at the bottom of a bluff, so you can’t see it from the road. But once parked, or off the bus, you’re treated to a panoramic view of the beach and ocean, unobstructed by hotels. There are a handful of fixed wooden umbrellas and plenty of open sand if you brought your own. Perhaps best of all is the mix of people you’ll find here: independent travelers, local families, even some surfers if the swell is high. (Speaking of which, take care swimming as the waves and tide can be strong here.) The beach is across the road from the El Rey ruins, which makes a nice side trip. The bus stops directly in front; there is no food or drink service.
Cancún is justly famous for its raucous nightclubs, pulsing with lights and music and packed with revelers of all ages every night of the week. The club scene is especially manic during spring break, July, August, Christmas, and New Year’s, but you can count on finding a party no matter when you visit. And those with quieter tastes will be happy to learn there’s more to Cancún’s nightlife than clubs, including a nice mix of small music venues, lounge bars, theaters, and cinemas.
NIGHTLIFE
Cancún’s most popular nightclubs are within walking distance of each other in the Zona Hotelera, at Punta Cancún. The Zona Hotelera also has some great lounge bars. Downtown, meanwhile, has nightclubs specializing in Latin music, and the city’s best live music, theater, and movies.
Cuncrawl (www.cuncrawl.com, US$79 pp) does fun guided bar/club crawls in the heart of Cancún, hitting three different clubs (they vary by night) with VIP entrance and seating, open bar, and available transport to/from your resort (US$10 pp).
Nightclubs
ZONA HOTELERA
Nightclubs in the Zona Hotelera charge US$40-50 admission with open bar included. The clubs open every day, from around 10pm until 4am or later. Special events, like ladies night or bikini parties, vary by the day, club, and season; check the clubs’ websites or Facebook pages for the latest info and deals, or ask the concierge at your hotel.
CocoBongo (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9, tel. 998/883-5061, www.cocobongo.com.mx, 10pm-4am daily, US$40 with open bar) is a spectacular club featuring live rock and salsa bands, flying acrobats, and Beyoncé, Madonna, and Guns n’ Roses impersonators. Movie clips are also projected onto huge screens.
The City (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9, tel. 998/848-8380, www.thecitycancun.com) is a megaclub with four levels and a total capacity of 4,000 (and allegedly the world’s biggest disco ball). Be sure to take a whirl on the movable dance floor, which descends from the 3rd floor to the center of the club below.
Dady-O (Blvd. Kukulcán Km 9.5, tel. 998/883-3333, www.dadyo.com.mx) is, well, the daddy of Cancún’s nightclubs, with seven different “environments,” including laser shows, swimsuit contests, and theme parties on several different levels.
Next door, Dady Rock (Blvd. Kukulcán Km 9.5, tel. 998/883-3333, www.dadyrock.com.mx) is technically a restaurant and bar, so it opens as early as 6pm and doesn’t have a dance floor. Nevertheless, driving rock music, sometimes live, soon has partiers dancing every place possible, including on tables and the bar.
Palazzo (Blvd. Kukulcán Km 9, tel. 998/848-8380, http://palazzodisco.com) took over the building occupied by the late great Bulldog Café, which closed in 2012. Fortunately, the Palazzo (which is owned by the same company as The City and has a sister location in Playa del Carmen) has continued the Bulldog’s tradition of booking big-name live acts and drawing raucous crowds. The interior has been totally refurbished, with a sleek Vegas-like look and a VIP section.
DOWNTOWN
Downtown clubs can be just as packed as those in the Zona Hotelera, but offer something different (and don’t open every day). There are two great spots for salsa and other Latin music and dancing, and at least one gay and gay-friendly club. Cover is much cheaper, but you pay for drinks.
Grand Mambo Café (Plaza Monarca, aka Plaza Hong Kong, 2nd Floor, Av. Xcaret at Av. Tulum, tel. 998/884-4536, 10pm-4am Wed.-Sun., US$5) is Cancún’s biggest Latin music club, and popular with locals, tourists, and expats alike. Live music doesn’t start until midnight, but the crowds arrive earlier than that, spinning to salsa, cumbia, merengue, and more.
El Rinconcito de la Salsa (Av. Tulipanes 3, tel. 998/187-5349, 10pm-4am Fri.-Sun., US$5) is a smallish salsa club with a great location, just a half block off Parque Las Palapas. It’s operated by the same person who ran Azucar, a former and much-missed salsa club in the Zona Hotelera. Live music starts at midnight.
Karamba (Av. Tulum at Calle Azucenas, tel. 998/884-0032, 10:30pm-6am Tues.-Sun.) is mostly gay, but not exclusively, with frequent drag shows and theme parties. There’s a fun mix of men, women, and cross-dressers. Look for the fabulous zebra facade.
Bars and Live Music
Several of the major nightclubs in the Zona Hotelera feature live rock music and even big-name concerts, most notably Palazzo and Dady Rock, while the lounges and bars tend toward DJs or recorded music. Downtown, you’ll find smaller venues featuring more intimate live music, whether jazz, solo guitarists, or trios.
For clubs and nightlife, you’ve come to the right place.
© GARY CHANDLER
ZONA HOTELERA
Congo Bar (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9.5) is about as lively as a bar can get without being called a club. Music is upbeat and drinks are plentiful. A congo line inevitably forms at some point (or points) and usually heads out the door and onto the street for a quick spin.
Old standbys Carlos n’ Charlie’s (Forum by the Sea, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9, tel. 998/883-4468, www.carlosandcharlies.com) and Señor Frog’s (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9.5, tel. 998/883-1092, www.senorfrogs.com) both open at noon for meals and stay open until 3am for drinking, dancing, and general mayhem.
For a more mellow scene, pop down to your hotel’s lobby bar to socialize with other guests.
DOWNTOWN
Roots Jazz Club (Tulipanes 26, tel. 998/884-2437, www.rootsjazzclub.com, 7pm-2am Thur.-Sat.) is arguably the best live music venue in town, the go-to spot for live jazz, funk, and flamenco, both traditional and contemporary, for over two decades. Music starts at around 10pm, but it’s worth getting there early for dinner and a good seat near the small stage. A cover (US$3-6) sometimes applies.
El Pabilo (Hotel Xbalamqué, Av. Yaxchilán 31, tel. 998/892-4553, 6pm-midnight Tues.-Sun.) is a small, artsy café with great live music on the weekends, including Cuban, fusion jazz, classical guitar, and flamenco. Music usually starts around 9pm; a moderate cover (US$5-9) is sometimes charged.
On the southern end of Parque Las Palapas, La Terraza (Alcatraces 29, tel. 998/126-0131, 6pm-1am Tues.-Sat.) is a pleasant open-air wine bar that books live guitar soloists most nights starting at 9pm.
THE ARTS
THEATER
Teatro Cancún (El Embarcadero, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 4, tel. 998/849-5580, www.teatrodecancun.com.mx, ticket office on ground level 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat.) stages shows of all sorts, from music and dance to comedy and theater, both amateur and professional, mostly in Spanish. Ticket prices vary, but average US$5-30.
Teatro Xbalamqué (Hotel Xbalamqué, Av. Yaxchilán 31, tel. 998/892-4553) stages experimental and one-act theatre performances in a small space inside the hotel of the same name; when we last visited, Dracula Has AIDS was playing. Most shows are in Spanish; check at reception for showtimes.
Cinema
Cancún has two convenient movieplexes, one in the Zona Hotelera and one downtown, both offering the latest American and Mexican releases. Most Hollywood movies are subtitled, but be aware that those made for kids, and even teenagers, are likely to be dubbed. Look for “DOB” (for doblado, or “dubbed”) or “SUB” for (subtitulada, or “subtitled”) to be sure. Ticket prices average around US$6; early shows may be discounted, but two-for-one Wednesdays are a thing of the past, unfortunately.
In the Zona Hotelera there’s Cinemark at La Isla mall (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, tel. 998/883-5604), while downtown has Cinépolis at Plaza Las Américas (Av. Tulum at Av. Sayil, tel. 998/884-0403). For a real treat, try Cinépolis VIP, which has reclining leather seats and wait service, with a menu that includes sushi, gourmet baguettes, cappuccinos, and cocktails (oh yeah, and popcorn and soda). Same location but tickets are sold at a separate window, costing around US$8.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco have long been Mexico’s top destinations for gay travelers, but organizers of the Cancún International Gay Festival are working to put Cancún on the list. Inaugurated in 1995 and typically held in May, the festival includes beach parties, sunset cruises, city tours, and more.
Since 2001 the Concurso Municipal de Artesanías, a citywide handicraft competition, has been held annually in Cancún’s Palacio Municipal. In addition to showcasing the city’s best artisans, many participants also sell their work just in front of the building. Look for the large white tents—and the crowds—on Avenida Tulum in early August.
Cancún has five major malls, a handful of open-air markets, and hundreds of independent shops, so you can buy just about anything. Most mall and independent shops accept credit cards, but plan on paying cash at the markets.
OPEN-AIR MARKETS
Mercado 28 (Av. Sunyaxchen at Av. Xel-Há, 9am-8pm daily) is a large open-air market featuring a wide variety of Mexican handicrafts: ceramics from Tonalá, silver from Taxco, hammocks from Mérida, alebrijes (wooden creatures) from Oaxaca, handwoven shirts from Chiapas. You’ll also find a fair share of T-shirts, key chains, coconut monkeys, and the like. A handful of restaurants in the center of the market offer traditional Mexican fare.
Adjacent to Mercado 28, Plaza Bonita (Av. Sunyaxchen at Av. Xel-Há, 9am-8pm daily) is a multilevel shopping center built to look like a colonial village—bright courtyards, fountains, greenery, and all. Folk art here is a bit more expensive than that in the market next door, but the quality is usually better.
On weekend evenings, stroll through Parque Las Palapas and Parque Los Artesanos, both great spots to pick up local handicrafts, Chiapanecan clothing, bohemian jewelry, and art.
MALLS
A recent renovation has transformed Plaza Caracol (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 8.5, www.caracolplaza.com, 8am-10pm daily) from its former desultory state into a genuinely pleasant place to shop. It’s the best mall in the Zona Hotelera for any beach essentials you left at home, with good brands and decent prices on bathing suits, flip-flops, sunglasses, sunscreen, etc. You can also grab a cup of Starbucks and good cheap grub at several small eateries.
Plaza Kukulcán is one of several large modern malls in Cancún’s Zona Hotelera and downtown area.
© GARY CHANDLER
Forum by the Sea (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9, www.forumbythesea.com.mx, 10am-11:30pm daily) is a horseshoe-shaped mall with three floors opening onto the airy main lobby. It’s home to Hard Rock Café—hence the huge guitar out front—the Rainforest Café (a jungle-themed family restaurant), a great steak house, and various mid- to high-end shops offering everything from T-shirts to expensive jewelry. There are cheaper food options—and a spectacular view of the beach and ocean—on the 3rd floor.
A mostly outdoor shopping center, La Isla Shopping Village (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, www.laislacancun.com.mx, 10am-10pm daily) is the most pleasant of the Zona Hotelera malls. It is set around an artificial river, with wide shady passageways, a nice variety of shops, and an excellent food court, including crepes, tacos, Italian, and more. A newer enclosed section called El Palacio Boutique houses various luxury shops. La Isla is also home to the popular Interactive Aquarium and has a five-screen movie theater.
Plaza Kukulcán (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, www.kukulcanplaza.com, 9am-11pm daily) is the Zona Hotelera’s swankiest mall, with a section called Luxury Avenue selling fine watches, jewelry, clothing, and more from brands like Cartier and Mont Blanc. The main mall area has some usual suspects like Sunglass Island and MixUp music store, plus a supervised children’s play area called Kukulkids (2nd Fl., tel. 998/885-3405, noon-9pm daily), if you want some quality shopping time without the kiddos; socks are required, and children can be no taller than 1.3 meters (51 inches).
You don’t have to go to the Zona Hotelera for your mall fix. Plaza Las Américas (Av. Tulum at Av. Sayil, 9am-10pm daily) stretches almost a block and includes dozens of mid- to upscale shops, an arcade, and two movie theaters. Plaza Las Avenidas (Av. Cobá at Av. Tulum, 9am-10pm daily) has similar offerings.
While relaxing by the pool or on the beach is more than enough sports and recreation for many of Cancún’s visitors—and who can blame them?—there are a number of options for those looking for a bit more action. From golf and fishing to scuba diving and kiteboarding (and a whole bunch of things in between), Cancún has something for everyone.
BEACH ACTIVITIES
Parasailing (paracaídas in Spanish) can be booked as a traditional one-person ride (with takeoff from the shore) or a two-person ride, in which you can take off from the boat or the water. Prices and duration are fairly uniform: US$50-60 per person for a 10- to 12-minute ride. Look for independent operators on the beach, especially on Playa Ballenas (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 14.5), Playa Chac-Mool (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 10), and Playa Delfines (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 17.5). Or sign up at Solo Buceo (Dreams Cancún Hotel, Blvd. Kukulkán Km. 9.5, tel. 998/883-3979, www.solobuceo.com, 9am-4:30pm daily) or Aqua World (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 15.2, tel. 998/848-8327, www.aquaworld.com.mx, 7am-8pm daily).
Wave Runners are rented on the same beaches where parasailing is pitched. Prices average US$50 for 30 minutes; one or two people can ride at a time.
SNORKELING AND SCUBA DIVING
Cancún doesn’t compare to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, or really anywhere along the Riviera Maya for snorkeling and diving. Its coral and other sealife is less plentiful and far less healthy, making for rather dull excursions. If you’re really hankering for some bubbly, we recommend booking a trip with a shop in Isla Mujeres or Puerto Morelos, both easy to reach from Cancún. (Cozumel is harder to do as a day trip, requiring a ferry to and from Playa del Carmen.) Or consider arranging a snorkeling or diving trip in a cenote, the otherworldly freshwater caves that dot the coast south of Cancún.
Snorkeling
For the best open-water snorkeling, book a trip with one of the dive shops listed below. All offer guided snorkeling trips in addition to diving, and are invariably better than the “jungle trips” hawked around Cancún, even for beginners. Cenotes also make for fascinating snorkeling, and many dive shops arrange tours there, too. No previous experience is required.
Scuba Diving
A number of shops offer fun dives as well as certification courses at all levels. Hotels with their own dive shop may offer special rates to guests, but not necessarily.
Solo Buceo (Dreams Cancún Hotel, Blvd. Kukulkán Km. 9.5, tel. 998/883-3979, www.solobuceo.com, 9am-4:30pm daily) is a friendly shop with a strong reputation for service. Two-tank reef dives run US$77, while two-tank Cozumel or cenote trips cost US$145, including lunch; prices include all gear except a wet-suit (US$10, recommended for cenote trips). Open-water certification classes (US$420, 3-4 days) can also be arranged. Despite its name, Solo Buceo offers more than “only diving,” including snorkeling, parasailing, deep-sea fishing, and wave runner rentals.
Scuba Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 5, tel. 998/849-7508, www.scubacancun.com.mx, 7am-8pm daily) was founded in 1980 and is still run by the same family. It offers the standard selection of dives, including one-tank (US$54), two-tank (US$68), and two-tank cavern and Cozumel dives (US$155, including lunch); all prices include equipment. Snorkel trips are offered in Cancún (US$29), Cozumel (US$105), and nearby cenotes (US$85). Trips can sometimes get crowded—ask about the size of your group before you book.
Aqua World (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 15.2, tel. 998/848-8300, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 877/730-4054, www.aquaworld.com.mx, 7am-8pm daily) is Cancún’s biggest, most commercialized water sports outfit, of which scuba diving is only a small part. Come here if you’re looking for activities for the whole family, divers and nondivers alike, all in one spot. Otherwise, head to smaller shops for more personal attention.
KITEBOARDING
Ikarus Kiteboarding School (tel. 984/803-3490, www.kiteboardmexico.com) is based in Playa del Carmen but opened a kiteboarding camp at Isla Blanca, a huge saltwater lagoon north of Cancún. Conditions for learning to kiteboard don’t get much better than this: steady wind, kilometers of flat water with few boats or other obstacles, and water never more than waist deep. Private classes are US$67-83 per hour, while groups are US$55-65 per hour per person (3 hours minimum). Simple lodging also is offered at Ikarus’s camp (US$8.50 pp hammock, US$8.50 pp tent, US$50 s/d).
WATERSKIING, WAKEBOARDING, AND SURFING
Cancún Waterski and Wakeboard (Marina Manglar, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 19.8, cell. tel. 998/874-4816, www.waterskicancun.com, by appointment only) has three slalom courses and a number of ski sites at the southern end of Laguna Nichupté. Free skiing and wakeboarding costs US$220 per hour, while the slalom courses are US$60 for 15 minutes.
Though the waves aren’t huge, Playa Delfines is as good as it gets for surfers in Cancún. The Asociación de Surf de Quintana Roo (Quintana Roo Surf Association, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 13, cell. tel. 998/118-2466, www.surfcancunmex.com, 8am-6pm daily) occasionally mans a kiosk there, offering surf classes and rentals.
SPORTFISHING
More than a dozen species of sport fish ply the waters off Cancún, including blue and white marlin, blackfin tuna, barracuda, dolphin dorado, wahoo, grouper, and more. Fishing Charters Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 7.5, tel. 998/883-2517, U.S. tel. 954/283-8621, www.fishingcharterscancun.com, 6:30am-9pm daily) offers four- to eight-hour trips on its fleet of custom fishing boats (US$450-850). Individual anglers also can sign up for “shared” trips (US$125-135, 4-6 hours). All trips include captain, mates, gear, bait, tackle, drinks, and, in some cases, lunch. Fly-fishing trips also can be arranged.
Small kiosks along the beach offer parasailing and other activities.
© GARY CHANDLER
Located within Wet n’ Wild water park, Dolphinaris Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 25, tel. 998/881-3030, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/365-7446, www.dolphinaris.com) offers dolphin interaction programs that include “fin shaking” and receiving a “kiss” (US$79, 1 hour), as well as swimming with and getting a foot push from them (US$119, 1 hour). For those toying with the idea of working with dolphins, visitors also can help out as Trainers for the Day (US$199, 8 hours).
Delphinus Dreams Cancún (Dreams Cancún Resort, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 7.5, tel. 998/206-3304, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/335-3461, www.delphinus.com.mx) offers similar dolphin interaction programs in a group setting (US$99-149, 1 hour), as a couple (US$399, 1 hour) and one-on-one (US$499, 1 hour). Trainer for the Day programs are offered too (US$199, 8 hours). Check the website for online deals.
Interactive Aquarium (La Isla Shopping Village, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, tel. 998/883-0411, www.aquariumcancun.com.mx, 10am-6pm daily, US$10) has a disappointingly small display of fish and other sea creatures, but its raison d’être are the interactive dolphin and shark exhibits. Like other dolphin programs, activities range from receiving a “kiss” and getting a “foot push” (US$85-135, 30-55 minutes) to a Trainer for the Day program (US$250, 8 hours). Shark “interactions” involve climbing into an acrylic booth and being lowered into the aquarium’s huge shark tank to get a close-up look at bull, brown, and nurse sharks (US$30 pp, 30 minutes).
ECOPARKS AND WATER PARKS
Ecoparks
Despite the deluge of advertising you’ll see for Xcaret, Xel-Há, Xplor, and Parque Garrafón, none are actually in Cancún. Parque Garrafón is the closest, situated on the southern end of Isla Mujeres. The others are 60-90 minutes south of Cancún, nearer to Playa del Carmen and Tulum. You can buy tickets at the gates, though most people buy them at their hotels or through a travel agency in Cancún so bus transportation is included in the cost; discounted park tickets also are popular giveaways for taking part in a time-share presentation.
Water Parks
Also known as Parque Nizúc, Wet n’ Wild (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 25, tel. 998/193-2000, www.wetnwildcancun.com, 9:30am-5pm daily, US$49 adult all-inclusive, US$43 child all-inclusive) is a small but classic water park with a handful of twisting slippery slides, high-speed water toboggans, and family-size inner tubing. It’s a great way to cool off, especially if you’re traveling with kids (or want to channel your own inner five-year-old). The all-inclusive plan includes all rides, meals, and drinks though, oddly enough, not the inner tubes. BYO towel too. The park is also home to Dolphinaris Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 25, tel. 998/881-3030, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/365-7446, www.dolphinaris.com, US$79-199), a dolphin interaction program.
GOLF
The Iberostar Cancún Golf Club (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 17, tel. 998/881-8016, www.iberostargolfresorts.com/cancun, US$179/79 public/hotel guests, US$105/45 public/guests after 1pm) is considered one of the finer courses in the region. This 18-hole par-72 course hugs Laguna Nichupté and boasts a great view of the Maya ruins El Rey from the 16th hole. Alligators also are rumored to be in one of the water hazards, so consider leaving those water-bound balls behind.
The Cancún Golf Club at Pok-ta-Pok (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 7.5, tel. 998/883-1230, www.cancungolfclub.com) is an 18-hole championship golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. It winds its way along the Caribbean and Laguna Nichupté and features its own Maya ruin near the 12th hole, discovered when the course was built. Greens fees are US$175 and drop to US$125 after 1pm. Rates include a shared golf cart. Some Zona Hotelera hotels offer discounts—ask your concierge for details.
Cancún and the Riviera Maya boast some of the country’s finest golf courses.
© H.W. PRADO
If you feel like a short round of golf and don’t want to shell out the big bucks, there are two par-3 courses in the Zona Hotelera open to the public: Paradisus Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 16.5, tel. 998/881-1100, www.melia.com, 7am-1pm last tee-off, US$35 greens fees, US$8 club rentals) and Oasis Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 16, tel. 998/885-0867, 8am-2:30pm last tee-off, US$17.50 greens fees including clubs).
You’ll find two Jack Nicklaus courses at Moon Palace Golf & Spa Resort (Hwy. 307 Km. 340, tel. 998/881-6100, www.palaceresorts.com/golf, US$289 for 18 holes, US$178 for 9 holes), just 15 minutes south of the Zona Hotelera. It has three nine-hole courses spanning nearly 11,000 yards. Greens fees include a shared golf cart, snacks, and drinks; from 2:30pm until closing at 6pm, greens fees are US$178 for as many holes as you can play. There’s also a driving range, a green-side bunker, and putting and chipping greens. Club rentals are US$50.
SPECTATOR SPORTS
Bullfights
Cancún’s Plaza de Toros (Av. Bonampak at Av. Sayil, tel. 998/884-8372, US$34, children under 12 free) hosts a bullfight every Wednesday at 3:30pm. Bullfights here differ from traditional corridas (runnings) in that only four bulls are fought (versus five or six) and a mini-charrería (rodeo) is performed. Advance tickets are sold at most travel agencies in Cancún.
Baseball
Baseball (béisbol in Spanish) is huge in Mexico, particularly in the north, where there are as many baseball diamonds as soccer fields. While still not having the pull in the Yucatán as it does elsewhere, it is a sport on the rise. The local team, Tigres de Quintana Roo (Quintana Roo Tigers, www.tigresqr.com), is one of the 16 teams that make up Mexico’s professional baseball league, the Liga Mexicana de Béisbol (www.lmb.com.mx). You can catch a game March-September at the Estadio Beto Avilá (Av. Xcaret s/n, behind Walmart, US$3-10).
Soccer
Arriving in Cancún from Mexico City in 2007, Atlante (www.club-atlante.com) is the city’s first professional fútbol team. And arrive they did: Atlante won the Mexican League’s championship and the Apertura 2007 Championship, both in their first year in residence. The following season Atlante won the 2008-09 CONCACAF Champions League, earning it a spot in the 2009 FIFA Club World Cup, where the team placed fourth. The team plays at the Estadio Andrés Quintana Roo (Av. Mayapán s/n, US$15-50), west of the baseball stadium, August-May.
SPAS AND GYMS
Many hotels and resorts have spas, but the following are some of the finest, and are open to the public. Reservations are strongly encouraged.
Le Blanc Spa (Le Blanc Spa Resort, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 10, tel. 998/881-4740, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/325-1538, www.leblancsparesort.com, 9am-8pm) is considered by many to be Cancún’s best spa, and is a big reason Le Blanc Spa Resort as a whole gets such great reviews. The resort is adults-only, so the spa caters to couples, from joint massages and treatments to the Golden Spa Suite, a spa-within-a-spa.
Spas don’t get much better, or bigger, than the new 40,000-square-foot Gem Spa (Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9.5, tel. 998/881-3200, www.coralbeachcancunhotel.com) at the Fiesta Americana. There are dozens of available treatments, all said to be inspired by the precious stones of the Maya, Asian/South Pacific, and Baltic regions. Obsidian, amber, amethyst, even diamond dust are used to sooth and smooth your body and mind. Be aware the spa charges US$85 just to get in—ouch.
Downtown, the well-regarded Centro Naturista Xbalamqué (Hotel Xbalamqué, Av. Yaxchilán 31, tel. 998/887-7853, www.xbalamque.com, 9am-8pm Mon.-Sat., by appointment only on Sun.) offers a full line of massages, facials, and body wraps, plus Reiki, crystal therapy, and temescal treatments. The spa’s entrance is on Calle Jazmines, around the corner from the main hotel entrance. Prices are very reasonable, most ranging US$30-50.
TOURS
Jungle Tour
It sure looks like it would be fun to drive a wave runner or speedboat across the lagoon to a national marine park to snorkel. Unfortunately, the rules—Stay in line! Don’t go too fast! Don’t pass!—keep the boat part pretty tame, and there are few birds in the mangroves. The snorkeling also is disappointing, with dozens of tourists swarming a small section of coral reef. We don’t recommend this sort of trip, but dozens of agencies will gladly take your money (US$60-75 pp, 2.5 hours).
Aerial Tours and Views
AeroSaab (Playa Del Carmen Airport, 20 Av. Sur near Calle 1, tel. 998/865-4225, www.aerosaab.com) offers scenic full-day tours from Cancún—Chichén Itzá, Isla Holbox, Mérida, Uxmal—and as far as Palenque, with time to visit the area. Trips are in four- or five-seat Cessna airplanes and run US$118-787 per person, plus airport fees. Most trips require a minimum of two people.
If you prefer to stay (somewhat) grounded, board La Torre Escénica (Scenic Tower, El Embarcadero, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 4.2, tel. 998/849-7777, 9am-9pm daily, US$9.50 adult, US$5 child 5-11), an 80-meter (262.5-foot) tower with a rotating passenger cabin, affording a beautiful 10-minute view of this part of the coastline. A brief history of the region also is played over the audio system.
Cancún has scores of hotels, varying from backpacker hostels to ultra-high-end resorts. They’re also divided by their location: the Zona Hotelera or downtown. The Zona Hotelera has spectacular views, easy access to swimming pools and the beaches, and excellent restaurants, but prices are higher and you won’t get much “authentic” interaction with local people. Downtown Cancún has a variety of food, shopping, and services (from Walmart to laundries) at generally lower prices, but staying downtown also means driving or taking a bus to the beach and not having access to hotel pools and amenities.
ZONA HOTELERA
Under US$100
The Zona Hotelera’s one and only youth hostel, Hostal Mayapan (Plaza Caracol, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 8.5, tel. 998/883-3227, www.hostalmayapan.com, US$20-22 dorm with a/c, US$62 d with a/c) occupies, of all things, a defunct mall, complete with escalators and faux Maya artwork. The upside is you’re within walking distance of the clubs and some nice beaches. The downside is, well, everything else: marginally clean linens and restrooms, ambivalent staff, paltry breakfast, no real common area, and air-conditioning that’s on only intermittently. Private rooms aren’t worth the extra cost.
US$100-150
Located on Laguna Nichupté, Hotel & Marina El Manglar (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 19.8, tel. 998/885-1808, www.villasmanglar.com, US$120 s/d with a/c) has simple and spacious rooms, each with cable TV, air-conditioning, a king-size bed, and two couches that double as twin beds. There’s a well-maintained pool on-site, and beach access across the street. Popular with people who enjoy diving, fishing, water skiing and wake boarding, with tours and instruction available on-site.
Located alongside the Pok-Ta-Pok golf course, Laguna Suites Golf + Spa (Paseo Pok-Ta-Pok No. 3, tel. 998/891-5252, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 866/760-1843, www.lagunasuites.com.mx, US$122/280 European plan/all-inclusive for two adults and two kids) has just 47 suites, allowing for genuinely personalized service with none of the hub-bub of a large beachfront resort. There’s a small pool and a chic palapa lounge, plus free hourly shuttles to two nearby sister resorts—the Royal Sunset and Ocean Spa—where you can enjoy the pool, beach, restaurants and other amenities like any other guest. A great option if you don’t mind a little resort hopping.
An excellent value, Beachscape Kin Ha Villas & Suites (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 8.5, tel. 998/891-5400, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 866/340-9082, www.beachscape.com.mx, US$146 s/d, US$196-619 suite) is a comfortable, low-key resort on a beautiful and spacious beach on the upper arm of the Zona Hotelera. The resort’s one-, two-, and three-bedroom suites have fully equipped kitchens, living and dining areas, and ocean-view terraces; there also are a handful of standard hotel rooms. In addition to that huge beach, the property has a large (and rather plain) pool, restaurant-bar, and children’s play area. Though lacking the style and ambience of Cancún’s top resorts, Beachscape Kin Ha can hardly be beat for location and value. Coin-op laundry, an exercise room, and Wi-Fi (reception area only) is available.
US$150-300
Part of the Royal Resorts company, Royal Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 4.5, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/838-7941, toll-free Mex. tel. 01-800/888-7744, US$200-250 villas for 4-6 pax with a/c) is a small resort that’s especially well-suited for families and small groups on a budget. Units here are well maintained, though dated, and have two bedrooms and a full kitchen. The resort doesn’t have an all-inclusive option; while this is somewhat less convenient, shopping and cooking for yourself is significantly less expensive (and then you don’t guilty going off-site for a special meal or two). The resort’s also on the short, north-facing part of the Zona Hotelera, with virtually no waves—a big difference from east-facing beaches, and a relief for parents with young kids.
CasaMagna Marriott Cancún Resort (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 14.8, tel. 998/881-2000, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/236-2427, www.marriott.com, US$249-299 s/d with a/c, US$329 suite with a/c) has over 400 rooms, all with private terraces and amenities like flat-screen TVs and wireless Internet. Guests can choose from eight eateries including an Argentinean steak house, a sushi restaurant, and a Thai restaurant. There’s also a full-service spa, illuminated tennis courts, and a gym with separate men’s and women’s saunas. The hotel’s main drawback is the pool—it’s well maintained but small for the size and caliber of the resort; fortunately, it’s just steps from the Caribbean.
Over US$300
Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9.5, tel. 998/881-3200, www.coralbeachcancunhotel.com, US$310-410 junior suite with a/c, US$580-680 master suite with a/c) is an elegant hotel offering spacious and comfortable suites, all with spectacular ocean-view balconies. It features a series of infinity pools, lush and manicured gardens, and one of the calmest beaches of the Zona Hotelera. The hotel has six restaurants and cafés, a huge luxurious spa, a kids club, and activities ranging from Spanish lessons to golf.
The Ritz-Carlton (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 13.9, tel. 998/881-0808, www.ritzcarlton.com, US$359-409 s/d with a/c, US$579 suite with a/c) is unparalleled in its elegance. Fine art, chandeliers, and marble floors greet you the moment the white-gloved porter opens the door. All rooms have stunning ocean views and boast features like goose down comforters, espresso machines, downpour showerheads, and twice-daily housekeeping. Other high-end features of the resort include a full-service spa and gym, tennis courts, the Culinary Center (a gorgeous kitchen where guests can take cooking classes), and, of course, a well-maintained beach. The only hiccups are the unremarkable pools—nice enough but nothing special—an odd oversight given the luxuriousness of the rest of the hotel.
All-Inclusive Resorts
Hotel Riu Palace Las Américas (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 8.5, tel. 998/881-4300, www.riu.com, US$139-171 pp) is a Victorian-style hotel with 350 -plus suites that, while not as elegant as the common areas, are quite nice nonetheless. Each has a separate sitting area, a minibar that’s restocked daily, and standard amenities like satellite TV and in-room safe; most rooms also have ocean views. Beds are ultrafirm—ask for a foam topper if that’s an issue. Outside of the rooms, the beach is narrow but well maintained; there are also two infinity pools, endless water activities, six restaurants, and five bars.
Located at the southernmost tip of the Zona Hotelera, Club Med Cancún Yucatán (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 20.6, tel. 998/881-8200, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/932-2582, www.clubmed.com, US$380 d all-inclusive) is a secluded resort with a huge offering of activities—from wakeboarding and waterskiing to flying trapeze and salsa dancing. If you’ve got kids, the Mini Club keeps the little ones happy and busy all day long with activities like tennis lessons and tie-dyeing. There also are three good restaurants and a handful of bars—enough variety to keep most guests happy.
A luxurious adults-only resort, Le Blanc Spa Resort (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 10, tel. 998/881-4740, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/325-1538, www.leblancsparesort.com, US$694-730 s/d with a/c, US$789-884 suite with a/c) offers all the amenities a vacationing couple could want: infinity pools, à la carte gourmet restaurants, a fully equipped gym and spa, Pilates and yoga classes, bars and lounges, and yards and yards of white-sand beach. The guest rooms are minimalist chic, all with views of the Caribbean or the lagoon. Each has a double whirlpool tub, marble bathroom with double showerheads, flat-screen TVs, even a pillow menu. Best of all, there is a butler assigned to each floor to ensure that every guest’s needs are met—from unpacking bags and running a bubble bath to delivering the morning paper.
DOWNTOWN
Under US$50
A huge mural marks the entrance of Hostel Quetzal (Jardín del Arte, Orquídeas 10, tel. 998/883-9821, www.hostelquetzal.com, US$19-21 pp dorm, US$46/54 pp s/d), a dance studio turned hostel. An artsy place, it’s got bright and airy rooms, all with air-conditioning, plus a verdant garden and a rooftop lounge with views of downtown Cancún. A spiral staircase leads to the dorm, which is spacious and colorful. Private rooms are scattered around, all with terraces and plenty of natural light. All guests enjoy a full breakfast and family-style dinner as part of the rate. Wi-Fi is available.
Hostel Mundo Joven Cancun (Av. Uxmal 25, tel. 998/898-2104, www.mundojovenhostels.com, US$12 dorm with fan, US$14 dorm with a/c, US$36 d with shared bath, US$45 with private bath) is a sleek affair with cool minimalist decor inside and out. Dorms are airy and bright, with outlets inside the lockers, so you can charge your devices without worrying they’ll get swiped. Private rooms are equally stylish, and there’s a rooftop lounge with a bar, Jacuzzi, and nice views. Continental breakfast, kitchen access, and computers and Wi-Fi are all included.
Welcoming of all ages, Moloch Hostel (Margaritas 54, tel. 998/884-6918, www.moloch.com.mx, US$15 dorm, US$26/40 s/d with shared bath, US$32/48 s/d with private bath) is a laid-back and super-clean hostel with mini-split air conditioners in all the rooms, including the dorms, and an inviting kidney-shaped pool in back. Dorms are a bit cramped but the beds are good; private rooms are larger and would even work for families. There’s a fully equipped kitchen for all to use, as well as continental breakfast, a TV lounge, and free computers. All that, and it’s just a block from the bus station and the park.
Located on a leafy residential street, Los Girasoles (Piña 20, tel. 998/887-3990, www.losgirasolescancun.com.mx, US$33/37 s/d one bed with a/c and kitchenette, US$41 s/d two beds with a/c and kitchenette) offers 18 spotless and colorful rooms with kitchenettes. Rooms are sunny and have heavy wood and ironwork furnishings; the TVs and air-conditioning are rather old, but still functional, and there’s Wi-Fi throughout. Family owned and operated, the hotel’s friendly service and quiet locale make up for being a bit removed from the center.
US$50-100
Bougainvillea and a gurgling fountain welcome you to Hotel El Rey del Caribe (Av. Uxmal at Nader, tel. 998/884-2028, www.reycaribe.com, US$75 s with a/c and kitchenette, US$85 d with a/c and kitchenette), an ecofriendly hotel two blocks east of the bus terminal. Rooms are clean and comfortable (those in the newer section are more spacious, with lovely wood floors), but it’s the verdant tropical garden with hammocks, pool, and an outdoor dining area that really sets El Rey apart—you might even forget for a moment you’re in the city. The hotel employs solar heating, rainwater recovery, and organic waste composting. Breakfast is included in the rate.
Hotel Mallorca (Calle Gladiolas at Av. Alcatraces, tel. 998/884-4285, http://mallorcahotalandsuites.com, US$66 d with a/c, US$100 suite with a/c and kitchenette) has large comfortable rooms, friendly service, and a perfect location, just a half block from Parque Las Palapas. Rooms combine warm colors and wood furniture with modern amenities, like glass showers and mini-split air conditioners. A rooftop lounge, still in the works when we visited, has superb views of the park and city. All in all, it’s a great new addition to downtown.
Suites Alcatraces 33 (Calle Alcatraces 33, tel. 998/887-5579, www.suitesalcatraces33.com, US$60-95 d with a/c and Wi-Fi) is an attractive and well-located condo-hotel overlooking Parque Las Palapas. The high, narrow building has tidy, moderately sized rooms with king-size beds, flat-screen TVs, and views of the park. A plunge pool—though awkwardly positioned at the entrance—is a plus.
You can’t miss Hotel Xbalamqué Resort & Spa (Av. Yaxchilán 31, cell. tel. 998/193-2720, www.xbalamque.com, US$88 s/d with a/c, US$111 suite) with its grand Maya-theme facade and the halls and stairways are covered in murals depicting important Maya leaders and notable cities in ancient times. Excellent service, a small pool, artsy café, and in-house spa all make this a fine choice. The rooms, however, are weirdly out-of-date, with cottage cheese stucco and old-school TVs and air conditioners. If that doesn’t bother you, Xbalamqué is a good option.
The Ramada Cancun City (Av. Yaxchilán at Calle Jazmines, tel. 998/881-7870, www.ramada.com, US$65) is cool and sleek, yet affordable and centrally located. Rooms have stark white interiors accented by rust and brown furniture, with basin sinks and flat-screen TVs for a modern touch. Noise from nearby clubs can be a problem, and maintenance and service can be uneven. Still, it’s a favorite among business travelers and would suit travelers looking for a reliable, modern downtown hotel. There’s a small pool and fitness room, and guests can take advantage of free transport and discounted entrance at Cabana Beach (http://cabana-beach.mx), a hip beach club at Playa Chac-Mool in the Zona Hotelera.
Cancún has dozens of excellent restaurants—from Cajun to Japanese, and from Argentinean steak houses to vegetarian. The finest restaurants are in the Zona Hotelera, mostly in the high-end resorts and along the west (lagoon) side of Boulevard Kukulcán. Be aware that eating out in the Zona Hotelera can be shockingly expensive, especially for dishes like lobster and imported steaks. There are a handful of Zona Hotelera gems, with great food at lower prices, and of course plenty of fast-food restaurants like McDonald’s and Subway. For something more authentic but still affordable, downtown Cancún is the place to go. Parque Las Palapas and the surrounding streets have restaurants for all tastes and budgets, from fine dining to tasty street food, plus a number of great little cafés and sandwich shops.
ZONA HOTELERA
Mexican
La Destilería (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, tel. 998/885-1086, www.ladestileria.com.mx/cancun, 1pm-midnight daily, US$12-30) serves a variety of decent Mexican dishes, including cilantro fish fillet and molcajete, a hearty stew served in a traditional stone bowl. Despite the name, tequila isn’t actually distilled here—like champagne, it can only be produced in certain parts of Mexico—but you can choose from over a hundred varieties and even take a tequila “tour” (1pm-5pm daily, 30 minutes, US$7) to learn how it’s made. Dinner, appetizers, and drinks can add up to a hefty outlay here, but it’s worth the expense. Live mariachi music 8pm-9pm daily; reservations are recommended.
Easy to miss, Tacun (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 11.5, tel. 998/593-3638, 11am-10pm daily, US$5-10) is a roadside taco joint at heart, and one of the few places in the Zona Hotelera to get good, genuine Mexican food at reasonable prices. Try a taco sampler platter with shrimp, beef, chicken, and al pastor tacos, served piping hot with a variety of fresh salsas. The staff and ambience are friendly, and it’s located across the street from Margaritaville and the Flamingo Mall.
a perfect plate of huevos rancheros, a classic Mexican breakfast
© LIZA PRADO
Seafood
A hidden gem in the Zona Hotelera, El Fish Fritanga (aka Pescadillas, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.7, tel. 998/840-6216, 7am-11pm daily, US$3-12) offers tasty homestyle seafood at great prices. If you’re stumped, try the pescadillas or grilled nurse shark tacos, both house classics. The restaurant faces the lagoon and is below street level, making it easy to miss—look for a small parking lot under a bright Domino’s Pizza sign.
Classy but unassuming, Captain’s Cove (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 16.5, tel. 998/885-0016, www.captainscoverestaurant.com, noon-11pm Tues.-Sat., 8am-11pm Sun., US$15-39) has a lovely lagoon-side location and excellent seafood, including fresh lobster, stuffed crab, and octopus and shrimp risotto. For a memorable dinner, call ahead to reserve a table on the patio at around sunset. It’s located across from the Royal Mayan and Omni resorts.
The nautical-themed Lorenzillo’s (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 10.5, tel. 998/883-1254, www.lorenzillos.com.mx, 1pm-12:30am daily, US$18-45) is known as one of the best lobster houses in town. Live lobster is kept in an adapted rowboat tank at the entrance—select the one you want, weigh it on an old-time scale, and before you know it, dinner’s on. Seating is indoors under a palapa roof or outdoors on the narrow patio overlooking the lagoon.
Italian
With a view of Isla Mujeres, Dolcemente Pompeii (Pez Volador 7 at Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 5.5, tel. 998/849-4006, noon-midnight Tues.-Sun., US$8-25) serves up hearty Italian dishes like salmon lasagna, fettuccine with grilled jumbo shrimp, and pizza. Be sure to leave room for the homemade gelato, too. There’s live music on weekends.
La Madonna (La Isla Shopping Village, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, tel. 998/883-2222, noon-midnight daily, US$15-42) is in a mall, yes, but the larger than life decor and surprisingly good food make that fact easy to forget. A huge modern replica of the Mona Lisa peers over an ornate dining room, where the menu includes veal, lamb, shrimp fettuccine, risotto, and more. The bar specializes in martinis, with over 150 variations to choose from.
Steak Houses
Puerto Madero (Marina Barracuda, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 14, tel. 998/885-2829, www.puertomaderocancun.com, 1pm-1am daily, US$15-65) is a longtime favorite serving carefully prepared meats in huge Argentinean-style portions. Choose a table in the warehouse-style dining room (an homage to the Puerto Madero shipyard in Argentina) or on the open-air patio with views of the lagoon. The menu includes salads, pastas, and excellent seafood, in addition to the many cuts of beef, some of which serve two. Prices are high, but not outrageously so, and you’re sure to leave full.
Harry’s Prime Steak House & Raw Bar (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 14.2, tel. 998/840-6550, www.harrys.com.mx, 1pm-1am daily, US$25-100) specializes in best-of-the-best beef, expertly prepared (some cuts are dry-aged for up to four weeks) and cooked in blazing hot broilers. There’s also a long menu of sashimi, oysters, ceviche, tartar, and other seafood dishes, plus salad and excellent wine and cocktails. The prices are sky-high, but it’s a memorable and worthwhile splurge for steak-lovers.
Other Specialties
Hidden in a small hotel near the Pok-ta-Pok golf course, La Palapa Belga (Hotel Imperial Laguna, Calle Quetzal 13, tel. 998/883-5454, www.palapabelga.com, 2pm-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$14-28) has been serving fine French-Belgian cuisine for almost two decades. It’s worth searching out both for its views across the lagoon to the Zona Hotelera and its delicious food like duck confit, steak tartare, and “Pot of mussels marinière.” Reservations are recommended on weekends.
For a change of pace, Elefanta and Thai Lounge (La Isla Shopping Village, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, tel. 998/176-8070, www.elefanta.com.mx and www.thai.com.mx, noon-midnight daily, US$15-42) are sister restaurants serving quality Indian and Thai food, respectively. The ambience at both is quite nice, despite being in a mall; the Thai Lounge, in particular, has private cabanas on stilts overlooking the lagoon and stays open late as a bar-lounge.
Groceries
Numerous small markets along Boulevard Kukulcán sell chips, water, sunscreen, and other beach basics. For a more complete grocery, head to Super Express (Plaza Quetzal, just west of Hotel Presidente-Intercontinental, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 8, tel. 998/883-3654, 8am-11pm daily), which has canned food, meats, produce, and more.
DOWNTOWN
Mexican
On the southeast corner of Parque Las Palapas, Restaurante Los Huaraches de Alcatraces (Alcatraces 31, tel. 998/884-3918, 8am-6:30pm Tues.-Sun., US$3-8) is a classic Mexican cafeteria serving traditional dishes like garlic-baked fish or chicken in homemade mole. All dishes come with a choice of two sides, such as veggie or beans. For something a little different, try one of the pre-Hispanic options, such as quesadillas made with blue-corn tortillas.
Combine Disneyland and the Mexican Revolution and you might get Pericos (Av. Yaxchilán 61, tel. 998/884-3152, www.pericos.com.mx, noon-midnight daily, US$14-25), a classic Cancún family restaurant. Bandito waiters sport crisscrossed ammo belts, the bar has saddles instead of stools, and kids may get a rubber chicken on their plates as a joke. Low-key it is not, but Pericos has a solid reputation for serving good grilled meats and seafood in a fun, boisterous atmosphere. Live marimba and mariachi starts at 7:30pm.
Checándole (Av. Xpuhil at Av. Xel-Há, tel. 998/884-7147, noon-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$5-12) serves up tasty Mexican dishes—tacos, enchiladas, tortas, fajitas—in a fast-food-type setting. The set lunch (menú del día) costs US$5.
Quesadillas Tierra del Sol (Margaritas near Tulipanes, 8am-midnight daily, US$2-4) has a new name and new owners, but the food and location, right on Parque Las Palapas, are great as ever. Hefty quesadillas (and sopes, panuchos, and salbutes) come with Oaxacan cheese and your choice of stuffing, from chorizo to nopales (cactus). Two will satisfy a decent appetite, four could push you over the edge. Fresh, fruity aguas help wash it down. Order at the register and they’ll call your number.
On the north end of Parque Las Palapas is a set of food stalls (8am-midnight daily, US$1.50-4) selling cheap Mexican and Yucatecan eats—tacos, quesadillas, tostadas, and salbutes. It’s perfect if you’re looking for some good street food or are on a tight budget.
Pescaditos (Av. Yaxchilán 59, noon-midnight daily, US$3-10) is the sort of restaurant you expect to see on the beach, complete with reggae music, a handful of tables, and a sign made from an old surfboard. And like the best beach shacks, Pescaditos will wow you with simple tasty meals, especially the seafood. The ceviche, beer-battered shrimp, and fish tacos and quesadillas are all outstanding, and very well priced. Wash it down with a frosty beer or homemade limonada.
Italian
Rolandi’s Pizzeria Cancún (Av. Cobá 12, tel. 998/884-4047, www.rolandirestaurants.com, noon-12:30am daily, US$10-24) is an institution, with sister pizzerias in Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, and Cozumel. The food here—and at all of them—is consistently good; choose among thin-crust pizzas, calzones, and great homemade pastas. Pocket bread, warm and inflated, and a dish of olive oil comes with every order. Sit on the veranda, which has trellises draped in ivy that block out street noise.
Other Specialties
One of downtown’s finest restaurants, La Habichuela (Parque Las Palapas, Calle Margaritas 25, tel. 998/884-3158, www.lahabichuela.com, noon-midnight daily, US$15-42) has been serving excellent Caribbean and Yucatecan dishes in its elegant park-side location since 1977. The seafood is especially good—try the giant shrimp in tamarind sauce or cocobichuela, the house specialty, with lobster and shrimp in a sweet curry. For dessert, the Maya coffee flambé is a treat.
Sahara (Calle Gladiolas 12, tel. 998/898-2222, 1pm-11pm Tues.-Sat., 1pm-8pm Sun., US$5-12) prepares authentic Lebanese food like hummus, falafel, and tabbouleh in a casual setting. A huge buffet, featuring the entire menu plus some extras, is served on Sunday only. Fun extras include hookah “hookups” (US$12.50) or having your coffee grounds read (US$12.50, including the coffee). Belly dancers perform on Wednesday starting at 9pm.
La Parrilla (Av. Yaxchilán 51, tel. 998/287-8119, www.laparrilla.com.mx, noon-2am daily, US$8.50-30) is one of the most popular of the restaurant-bars on this busy street, grilling a variety of delicious beef fillets, plus shrimp and lobster brochettes, chicken, fajitas, and tacos—the fiery spit in front is for taquitos al pastor, a Mexican classic. The breezy street-side eating area is comfortable and casual—good for families. There also is live mariachi music every night starting at 8pm.
Pescado Con Limón (Mercado 28, tel. 998/887-2436, 11:30am-7:30pm daily, US$6-12) may be short on ambience—plastic tables and chairs facing the Mercado 28 parking lot—but the seafood is as fresh and good as it comes, an open secret among locals and expats. For a sure thing, try a shrimp dish or one of the fried-fish platters.
Light Fare
El Pabilo (Hotel Xbalamqué, Av. Yaxchilán 31, tel. 998/892-4553, 5pm-1am daily, US$3.50-8) is a classy but unassuming café serving up excellent coffee drinks and light meals. The space also serves as an art gallery, with rotating exhibits, and a multilingual bookstore. It is a great place to listen to live music, too—every night but Sunday, you can hear genres ranging from bohemia cubana to fusion jazz. Music starts at 9:30pm.
Get a tasty baguette sandwich at Ty-Coz Baguettería (Av. Tulum at Av. Uxmal, tel. 998/884-6060, 8am-10pm Mon.-Sat.), a cozy eatery tucked behind the Comercial Mexicana supermarket opposite the bus terminal. Popular with local professionals and students, the menu includes French- and German-inspired baguette sandwiches and cuernos (croissants). Most are US$3-5, but you can always order the económica baguette with ham, salami, and cheese for just US$1.25.
100% Natural (Av. Sunyaxchén at Av. Yaxchilán, tel. 998/884-0102, www.100natural.com.mx, 7am-11pm daily, US$6-12) is a popular and tasty vegetarian restaurant chain, with a large menu that includes salads, veggie and faux-meat sandwiches, and freshly squeezed juices. The ambience can be somewhat sterile—the potted plants and filtered light help—but it’s a welcome alternative for non-meat-eaters, locals and tourists alike.
Groceries
Chedraui (Blvd. Kukulcán at Av. Tulum) and Comercial Mexicana (Av. Tulum at Av. Uxmal) are huge supermarkets with everything from produce and in-house bakeries to pharmacies and beach supplies. Both are open 7am-11pm daily and have ATMs just inside their doors.
Just a couple of blocks from the bus station, Mercado 23 (Calles Ciricote and Cedro, three blocks north of Av. Uxmal via Calle Palmeras, 6am-6pm daily) has stands of fresh fruits and vegetables, and none of the touristy trinkets that Mercado 28 has. The selection is somewhat limited, but the produce is the freshest around.
DINNER CRUISES
For couples, the Lobster Dinner Cruise (Aquatours Marina, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 6.5, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/727-5391, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/393-5158, www.thelobsterdinner.com, US$89 dinner with open bar, no children under 14, departs at 5pm, 5:30pm, 8pm, and 8:30pm nightly) offers a change of pace, serving three-course dinners aboard a Spanish-style galleon. The ship cruises the Laguna Nichupté for 2.5 hours, accompanied by live jazz. An additional dock fee applies (US$6 pp).
If you’ve got kids, the Galleon of Captain Hook (Terminal Maritima Puerto Juárez, tel. 998/849-4451, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/010-4665, www.capitanhook.com, US$82-92 dinner with open bar, children under 12 free, departs at 7pm nightly, 3.5 hours) offers dinner plus a costumed crew, tales of pirate conquest, and even a “disco party” on the deck while cruising the open sea. An additional dock fee applies (US$10 pp). The boat leaves from Puerto Juárez north of Cancún; hotel pickup is available for an extra fee.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Downtown, the City Tourist Office (Av. Nader at Av. Cobá, tel. 998/887-3379, www.turismo.cancun.gob.mx, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) is a bustling office with staffers who happily provide information on city and regional sights. A kiosk just outside of the office has brochures and maps. English is spoken.
Note: Be aware that booths with Tourist Information signs along Avenida Tulum and Boulevard Kukulcán are in fact operated by time-share companies, offering free tours and other goodies in exchange for attending a sales presentation.
There are also several publications that are worth picking up: Cancún Tips (www.cancuntips.com.mx) is a free tourist magazine with general information about Cancún and nearby sights; both Restaurante Menu Mapa and Map@migo (www.mapapocketcancun.com) have maps, restaurant menus, reviews, and discount coupons; and Agenda Cultural has listings of Cancún’s upcoming cultural events, exhibitions, and workshops. This last one can be hard to find—ask at the tourist office.
EMERGENCY SERVICES
There are several recommended private hospitals within a few blocks of each other in downtown Cancún. All have emergency rooms and English-speaking doctors and are open 24 hours daily: Hospitén Cancún (Av. Bonampak s/n, south of Av. Nichupté, tel. 998/881-3700, www.hospiten.com), AmeriMed Hospital (Av. Bonampak at Av. Nichupté, behind Las Américas mall, tel. 998/881-3400, www.amer-imedcancun.com), and Hospital Galenia (Av. Tulum at Av. Nizuc, tel. 998/891-5200, www.hospitalgalenia.com).
For meds in the Zona Hotelera, try any of the malls or head to Farmacia del Ahorro (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9.5, tel. 998/892-7291, 24 hours). Downtown, Farmacias Similares (Av. Tulum near Calle Crisantemos, tel. 998/898-0190, 24 hours) is a reliable national chain.
The police department, fire station, and ambulance all can be reached by dialing toll-free 060 or 066 any time. In the Zona Hotelera, all three are located in the same building next to Plaza Kukulcán (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5). Downtown, the main police station (Av. Xcaret at Av. Kabah, tel. 998/884-1913, 24 hours) faces the Carrefour supermarket, and there’s a small office on Parque Las Palapas, near the food stalls, which is usually open 24 hours.
MONEY
You’ll have no problem accessing or exchanging your money in Cancún. ATMs are ubiquitous, including at all the shopping malls, and give the best exchange rate. Many resorts will exchange dollars and euros, or simply accept them directly as payment. Ditto for many tour operators and even restaurants, especially in the Zona Hotelera. The exchange rate may be awful, however.
If you need an actual bank, head to Plaza Caracol (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 8.5), where you’ll find Bancomer, HSBC, and Banamex; or Plaza Kukulcán (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5), where there’s a Banco Serfín. All have ATMs that accept foreign cards and are open roughly 9am-4pm Monday-Friday.
Downtown, the best-located banks are on Avenida Tulum between Avenida Cobá and Avenida Uxmal: Bancomer (Av. Tulum 20, 8:30am-4pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm Sat.) and Banamex (Av. Tulum 19, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm Sat.).
American Express (Av. Tulum 208 at Calle Agua, tel. 998/881-4000, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-1pm Sat.) offers money exchange and other services to cardholding travelers. There’s also an AmEx kiosk in La Isla Shopping Village (9am-10pm daily).
MEDIA AND COMMUNICATIONS
Post Office
The post office (Av. Sunyaxchen at Av. Xel-Há, tel. 998/834-1418, 8am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-1pm Sat.) is located in front of Mercado 28. There is no post office in the Zona Hotelera, though your hotel may mail postcards for you.
Internet and Telephone
Most hostels, hotels, and resorts now offer Wi-Fi service, whether for free or at a small cost, and many have computers available for those without a laptop or mobile device of their own. Malls, restaurants, and even the Mexican government is following suit: Most Mexican cities, Cancún among them, have public Wi-Fi in their main plazas. If all else fails, you can get online at local cybercafés, scattered throughout downtown and in the main Zona Hotelera malls. Most have Skype-enabled computers, but also offer direct-dial national and international calls for US$0.20-0.40 per minute.
In the Zona Hotelera, Internet cafés are located at Plaza Kukulcán (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, 10am-10pm daily, US$8.50/hour) and at Forum by the Sea (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9, 10am-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$7/hour).
Downtown is far cheaper, including at Cancún @ (Av. Uxmal 22-D, tel. 998/892-3484, 8am-midnight daily), located near the bus station, with air-conditioning, friendly service, and fast Internet connections for around US$1 per hour.
Just off Parque Las Palapas, C@s@bl@nc@ (Gladiolas near Alcatraces, 10am-midnight daily) charges the same but is sometimes closed unexpectedly.
Newspapers
There are a handful of newspapers for local and regional news: In Spanish, Novedades de Quintana Roo (www.sipse.com/novedades) is the state’s oldest newspaper, centrist in coverage, with a good classified section; ¡Por Esto! (www.poresto.net) is a left-of-center paper with Quintana Roo and Yucatán versions; and Diario de Yucatán (www.yucatan.com.mx) is more conservative and covers the entire region. The Cancún version of the Miami Herald Tribune is a good English-language alternative.
IMMIGRATION
Cancún’s immigration office (Av. Nader at Av. Uxmal, tel. 998/884-1749 or 998/881-3560, 8am-1pm Mon.-Fri.) is an efficient, welcoming office—worlds better than the one in Playa del Carmen.
LAUNDRY AND STORAGE
Downtown, Lavandería Las Palapas (Parque Las Palapas, Alcatraces near Gladiolas, 7am-10pm Mon.-Sat.) will do your laundry for US$4.25 per three kilos (6.6 pounds), or you can do it yourself for US$1.25 per wash or dry. A block away, Zamalek (Gladiolas near Av. Yaxchilán, 8:30am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-6pm Sat.) is slightly cheaper at US$3.25 per three kilos. Both offer two-hour rush service for 50 percent extra.
In the Zona Hotelera, Lavandería Lumi (Plaza Quetzal, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 7.4, tel. 998/883-3874, 8am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.) will wash, dry, and fold your dirty clothes for US$10 for four kilos (8.8 pounds); rush service is available for double price, while pickup/drop-off service costs an additional US$8.50.
Another Zona Hotelera option is Laundry Wash (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 14.5, no phone, 8am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-3pm Sat.), which charges US$8.50 per three kilos (6.6 pounds) for 24-hour service or US$12 per three kilos for express service and has hotel drop-off. It’s located on the access road behind Secret resort, near Playa Ballenas.
On the 1st floor of the bus station, Guarda Equipaje (tel. 998/884-4352, ext. 2851, 6am-9:30pm daily) will store luggage for US$0.50-1.20 per hour, depending on the size, or a flat US$8.50 per day.
Storage lockers (US$7 per 24 hours) also can be rented in Terminal 3 at Cancún’s International Airport; they are big enough to hold carry-on bags only. Look for the lockers as you exit Customs.
GETTING THERE
Air
The Cancún International Airport (CUN, tel. 998/848-7200, www.cancun-airport.com) is 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) south of Cancún. Most international flights arrive and depart from the airport’s Terminal 3, which also has airline, taxi, bus, and car rental desks, as well as ATMs. In general, Terminal 2 is used for domestic flights with some overflow international flights; Terminal 1 is reserved for charter flights. A free shuttle ferries travelers between Terminal 2 and 3 only.
Bus
Buses leave Cancún’s clean and modern bus terminal (Av. Tulum at Av. Uxmal) for destinations in the Yucatán Peninsula and throughout the interior of Mexico.
Combi
Combis, public shuttle vans, run between Cancún and Playa del Carmen. They queue up directly across Avenida Tulum from the bus terminal, near the Comercial Mexicana, and depart every 10-15 minutes 24 hours a day (US$2.75, one hour). For slightly more, Playa Express has larger, air-conditioned shuttles, departing on roughly the same schedule from the parking lot in front of the bus terminal (US$3, 50 minutes). Both services make stops along the way, including Puerto Morelos (US$2-2.50, 30 minutes).
Flying to Cancún
The following airlines serve Cancún International Airport (CUN, Carr. Cancun-Chetumal Km. 22, tel. 998/848-7200, www.cancun-airport.com):
• Aeroméxico (Av. Cobá at Av. Bonampak, tel. 998/287-1860, airport tel. 998/193-1866, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/021-4000, toll-free U.S. tel 800/237-6639, www.aeromexico.com)
• Air Canada (airport tel. 998/886-0883, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/719-2827, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/247-2262, www.aircanada.com)
• American Airlines (airport tel. 998/886-0086, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/904-6000, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 800/433-7300, www.aa.com)
• Continental (airport tel. 998/886-0006, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/900-5000, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 800/864-8331, www.continental.com)
• Copa Airlines (airport tel. 998/886-0652, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/265-2672, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/359-2672, www.copaair.com)
• Cubana de Aviación (Av. Tulum 232, tel. 998/887-7210, airport tel. 998/886-0355, www.cubana.cu)
• Delta (airport tel. 998/886-0668, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/123-4710, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/221-1212, www.delta.com)
• Frontier Airlines (toll-free U.S. tel. 800/432-1359, www.frontierairlines.com)
• InterJet (Plaza Hollywood, Av. Cobá at Av. Xcaret, tel. 998/892-0278, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/011-2345, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/285-9525, www.interjet.com.mx)
• Lan (airport tel. 998/886-0360, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/123-1619, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/435-9526, www.lan.com)
• Lufthansa (airport tel. 998/886-0122, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/645-3880, www.lufthansa.com)
• Spirit Airlines (Retorno Jazmines at Av. Yaxchilán, tel. 998/886-0708, airport tel. 998/887-1862, toll-free Mex./U.S./Can. tel. 800/772-7117, www.spiritair.com)
• United Airlines (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/900-5000, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 800/864-8331, www.united.com)
• US Airways (airport tel. 998/886-0373, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/843-3000, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/428-4322, www.usairways.com)
Cancún’s bus station (tel. 800/702-8000) is located downtown at Avenidas Tulum and Uxmal. Departures listed below include both first- and second-class service; in many cases, second-class buses take significantly longer for only marginal savings.
GETTING AROUND
To and from the Airport
Cancún’s airport is served by taxi, shuttle, and bus. The authorized airport taxi service, Yellow Transfers (toll-free Mex. tel. 01-800/021-8087, www.yellowtransfers.com), has two booths inside the airport and another at the exit, and has taxi and shuttle service, including luxury class and for the disabled, anywhere on the coast. Fares are fixed and prominently displayed at the airport and online (where rates are sometimes discounted). Rates to the Zona Hotelera vary by distance, but private taxis and shuttles run US$48-80 (4-8 pax), while shared shuttles are US$12-16. To downtown, it’s US$64 private and US$12 shared. Yellow Transfers offers round-trip service at a discount, or you can hire an ordinary taxi; you’ll end up paying roughly the same. Service down the coast includes Playa del Carmen (US$95/35 private/shared) and Tulum (US$164/53).
ADO has a ticket counter right outside the airport; bear right as you leave the main doors. Comfortable, air-conditioned buses leave every half hour for downtown Cancún (8:15am-11pm daily, US$4.25, 25 minutes) and every 40 minutes for Playa del Carmen (10am-10:15pm daily, US$10.50, 1 hour); the latter stops in Puerto Morelos (US$6, 25 minutes) along the way. For Tulum (US$14.50, 2 hours), there are direct buses at 2:10pm, 7:45pm and 8:45pm; otherwise take any bus to Playa del Carmen and transfer. ADO’s airport buses do not enter Cancún’s Zona Hotelera, however.
Bus
Frequent buses (US$0.75) run between downtown Cancún and the Zona Hotelera—you’ll rarely have to wait more than five minutes for one to pass. The buses are red and have “R-1,” “Hoteles,” or “Zona Hotelera” painted on the front, and stop along Avenida Tulum, the bus station, and near most major hotels, beaches, and ferry ports.
Taxi
You’ll have no trouble finding a taxi around town or in the Zona Hotelera—they are everywhere tourists are. Before getting into one, however, make sure to agree upon a price—meters are not used, and drivers sometimes overcharge. As of this writing, the rate around downtown is US$1.75, from downtown to the Isla Mujeres ferries US$4.25, and from downtown to the Zona Hotelera US$7-17, depending on the destination. Rates within the Zona Hotelera jump dramatically and depend on how far you’re going. Ask your concierge for specific rates, but expect to pay US$5-20.
Car
Although you won’t need a car to visit Cancún proper, renting one is a great way to visit the nearest archaeological sites (i.e., Tulum, Cobá, Ek’ Balam, and Chichén Itzá) without being part of a huge tour group. A rental also makes exploring the Riviera Maya a little easier, though buses cover that route fairly well. Driving in the Cancún area is relatively pain free—unexpected speed bumps and impatient bus drivers are the biggest concern.
Most international car rental companies, and a few local ones, have offices at the airport (some are right at the terminal, others in a purpose-built rental center few miles away) as well as in select resorts and at offices downtown and in the Zona Hotelera. Various sizes and types of vehicle are available, from SUVs to Volkswagen bugs (optimistically dubbed VW sedans); prices with insurance and taxes start at around US$40 a day. The best rates are online with the international companies; you also can sometimes get discounted rates by spending half a day in a time-share presentation. Commonly used companies include:
• Thrifty (Cancún Airport, tel. 998/886-0333; Hotel Presidente InterContinental, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 7.5, tel. 998/848-8700, www.thrifty.com)
• Avis (Cancún Airport, tel. 998/883-0221; La Isla Shopping Village, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, tel. 998/176-8030, www.avis.com)
• National (Cancún Airport, tel. 998/881-8760; La Isla Shopping Village, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 12.5, tel. 998/176-8117, www.nationalcar.com)
• Hertz (Cancún Airport, tel. 998/887-0142; Av. Yaxchilán 27, tel. 998/882-1524, www.hertz.com)
• America Car Rental (Cancún Airport, tel. 998/253-6100; Flamingo Plaza, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 11.5, tel. 998/883-0160, www.america-carrental.com)
• Avicar (Cancún Airport, tel. 998/887-0142, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/282-7875, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/903-2666, www.avicar.com.mx)
• AutoRent (Av. Tulum at Calle Azucenas, tel. 998/887-0709)
Parking lots in the Zona Hotelera are in the shopping centers: La Isla Shopping Village, Forum by the Sea, Plaza Kukulcán, and Plaza Caracol. Rates are typically US$1.50 for the first hour and US$0.50 for each additional hour. Downtown, it’s easiest—and relatively safe—to park on the street or in the public lots around Parque Las Palapas.
Travel Agencies
Most travelers handle their travel and hotel bookings online, but there are scores of travel agencies in Cancún for anyone who finds a need for their service—look especially on Avenidas Tulum and Uxmal. Worth noting is American Express (Av. Tulum 208 at Calle Agua, tel. 998/881-4000, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-1pm Sat.), which has special services for cardholders.
Just eight kilometers (5 miles) long and no more than a quarter mile wide, Isla Mujeres is a sliver of land fringed by white-sand beaches amid the wide turquoise sea. It actually was one of the first places in the Mexican Caribbean to have hotels and other tourist developments, but attention quickly shifted to Isla Cozumel and then Cancún proper. It may have been a blessing in disguise: As those areas exploded, rushing to build high-rise hotels and ports for cruise ships, Isla Mujeres developed more slowly, attracting backpackers and bohemians while remaining pretty much what it always was—a quiet, picturesque fishing community.
Of course, even slow change adds up, and today Isla Mujeres is a well-established tourist destination. Thousands of day-trippers come from Cancún to shop, eat, and relax on the island’s calm beaches. While still popular with backpackers, Isla Mujeres now also attracts midrange and upscale travelers with an ever-expanding selection of boutique hotels and bed-and-breakfasts.
Despite higher hotel prices and T-shirt shops, golf carts, and pushy tour operators, Isla Mujeres remains at its core a mellow tropical island with a friendly and laid-back population. Passersby greet one another, people stroll in the middle of the street, and many businesses close for long lunches. Add to that beautiful beaches and numerous options for snorkeling, biking, and other outdoor excursions, and it’s no wonder so many visitors find themselves extending (and re-extending) their time here.
HISTORY
The precise origin of the name Isla Mujeres (Island of Women) is unknown, though not for lack of theories. Some say the name comes from the days of pirates trolling the Caribbean; they allegedly kept their female captives on Isla Mujeres while they ransacked boats sailing along the coast. Another more likely story is that the island served as a stopover (or secondary site) for Maya pilgrims on their way to Isla Cozumel to worship Ixchel, the female goddess of fertility. When Spanish explorers landed here, they reportedly found a large number of female-shaped clay idols and named the island after them.
The town of Isla Mujeres (known as the centro, or center) is at the far northwestern tip of the island; at just eight blocks long and five blocks deep, it is very walkable. This is where most of the hotels, restaurants, shops, and services are. There is no main street per se, although Avenida Hidalgo intersects with the town zócalo (central plaza) and has a bustling pedestrian-only section. Avenida Rueda Medina is the busy street that runs along the south side of the centro past the ferry piers and continues all the way to the island’s other end, becoming Carretera Punta Sur at Parque Garrafón (and therefore also known as Carretera Garrafón). The road that runs along the north side of the island is Avenida Martínez Ross as it leaves the downtown area, becoming Carretera Perimetral partway down the island.
SIGHTS
Hacienda Mundaca
A sad dilapidated estate, Hacienda Mundaca (Av. Rueda Medina at Carr. Garrafón Km. 3.5, no phone, 9am-5pm daily, US$1.75) is not interesting enough to visit, but is just historical enough that tourism folks (including guidebook authors) can’t just ignore it. It was built by a 19th-century retired slave trader, Antonio Mundaca, to woo a local woman; when she rejected his advances, Mundaca went crazy, holing up in the estate while it crumbled around him . . . and that’s pretty much where things stand today.
Tortugranja
A modest sea turtle sanctuary on the island’s southwestern shore, Tortugranja (Carr. Sac Bajo 5, tel. 998/888-0507, 9am-5pm daily, US$2.50) makes for an interesting stop on your golf-cart tour of the island. The one-room cement structure contains several enclosures with sea turtles of different ages and species. The tank of just-hatched tortuguitas is always a hit; please respect the rules (and huge signs) and refrain from touching or picking them up. During the nesting season (May-October), one section of sand is fenced off, and eggs collected from nests are transplanted here for protection. Small aquariums along the walls contain sea anemones, sea horses, and the deadly rockfish, among others.
Between July and November, travelers may be able to accompany the center’s workers to look for fresh sea turtle nests on the island’s eastern shore and relocate eggs to protected areas, and, until October and November, help release hatchlings into the sea. Both activities take place in the evening several nights a week but are not formal tours. Those interested should inquire at the center, and having basic Spanish (and possibly your own vehicle) will make participating much easier. There’s no charge, but a tip is customary.
Museo Subacuático de Arte
Underwater sculpture is nothing new, but there’s never been a project as ambitious—or as gorgeous, frankly—as the Subaquatic Museum of Art (MUSA, www.asociados-nauticoscancun.com). British sculptor Jason de Caires Taylor created hundreds of life-size statues of everyday people—garbage men, pregnant women, wizened tribal leaders, and more—and sank them in 12-40 feet of crystalline water near Manchones reef. Striking for their lifelike quality, the figures were made from special cement that will promote coral and other sealife, eventually forming an artificial reef system. Diving is the best way to enjoy the statues, though snorkelers can manage a decent look, too; most dive shops offer both options.
Templo de Ixchel and Sculpture Garden
At the far southern tip of the island, a crumbling Maya temple stands on a cliff overlooking the sea. Its original function is unknown: The location suggests it was an observation post or even an astronomical observatory, but most experts believe it was related to Ixchel, the Maya goddess of the moon, fertility, weaving, and childbirth, possibly as a secondary pilgrimage site after Isla Cozumel. Whatever its history, the temple was abandoned long before Francisco Hernández de Córdoba first reported their existence in 1517.
The temple alone isn’t too exciting, as time and weather have all but destroyed it. But a visit here also includes stopping in a tiny museum, climbing a renovated lighthouse, and pondering a dozen or so multicolored modern sculptures lining the path to the ruins. And just past the ruins, the trail continues to the very tip of the island—the easternmost point of Mexico, in fact—before looping back along the craggy waterfront to the entrance. It’s a decent side trip, with some fine photo ops along the way.
Admission to the Ixchel ruins is included in the ticket price to Parque Garrafón; all others must pay US$3 (10am-5pm daily).
Isla Contoy
Peeking out of a crystal-clear sea and dotted with saltwater lagoons, mangrove trees, and coconut palms, Isla Contoy is home to over 150 species of birds, including herons, brown pelicans, frigates, and cormorants, and is a preferred nesting ground for three different species of endangered sea turtles. The island was decreed a national park in 1998, and its only structures are a three-story viewing tower, a visitors center, and a small museum; a few trails allow for appreciating the otherwise pristine island environment. Just 24 kilometers (14 miles) north of Isla Mujeres, Isla Contoy is a popular and rewarding outing for nature buffs and average day-trippers alike.
Various tour operators on Isla Mujeres offer the same basic trip for a standard price (US$65, including the US$5 park entrance fee): Depart around 9:15am with a 30- to 45-minute stop for snorkeling along the way, then three hours to explore the island or just relax, including lunch on the beach (typically freshly grilled fish or chicken). Boats head back around 3pm, reaching Isla Mujeres at 4pm.
Brown pelicans are one of dozens of species of birds you’ll see on Isla Contoy.
© LIZA PRADO
Recommended operators include Captain Tony García (Av. Matamoros near Av. Benito Juárez, tel. 998/877-0229, captaintonys@hotmail.com), a friendly English-speaking guide with over 20 years’ experience whose house doubles as his office, and Cooperativa Isla Bonita (Av. Madero pier, cell. tel. 998/134-6103, 9am-5pm daily).
BEACHES
Playa Norte
Playa Norte (North Beach) is a long undulating strip of sand on the northern edge of Isla Mujeres. Its fine white sands descend ever so slowly into a gorgeous turquoise sea—you can wade almost a hundred yards out and still be only waist deep. The long shallow shelf means Playa Norte has virtually no waves, adding to the beach’s tranquility. It’s a favorite spot for visitors of all ages: couples sunning themselves and sipping margaritas, backpackers on colorful beach towels, kids frolicking in the calm water, and older travelers relaxing under huge umbrellas.
You can rent beach chairs and umbrellas at a number of spots along Playa Norte, including Buho’s (end of Av. Carlos Lazo, US$12.50/day for 2); Chi Chis & Charlie’s (southwestern end of Playa Norte, US$12.50/day first row, others free with purchase); and Tarzan Water Sports (end of Av. Guerrero at Playa Norte, tel. 998/877-0679, 9am-sunset daily, US$10/day for 2), where there also are lockers, restrooms, and free Wi-Fi.
Tarzan also rents snorkel gear (US$10/day), single and double kayaks (US$15-20/hour), Hobie Cats (US$45/hour), and stand-up paddleboards (US$12.50/hour) and can arrange snorkel tours (US$25 pp, 2 hours).
Playa Sol
Around the corner, Playa Sol is also lovely, with deeper water and a wider beach than Playa Norte’s. One end of the beach has long been packed with fishing boats, while the other end has recently been cordoned off for use by guests at a nearby resort. That said, there’s still a large section in the middle where you can stretch out a towel. Cooperativa Isla Bonita (cell. tel. 998/134-6103) operates a small kiosk there with lounge chairs and umbrellas for rent.
Isla Mujeres’s peaceful Playa Norte
© GARY CHANDLER
Other Beaches
Zama (Carr. Sac Bajo s/n, tel. 998/877-0739, www.zamabeach.com, 10am-6pm daily) is a small beach club on the island’s calm southwest shore that’s gotten popular as a wedding spot, if that gives you an idea of how pretty it is. You can relax in a comfy beach-bed on the large clean beach or in a hammock in the shady garden. The sand is a bit thin and there’s sea grass in the shallows, but you can swim comfortably from the long pier or in one of the two appealing midsize pools. The tidy open-air restaurant is reasonably priced and has everything from burritos to shrimp dishes, plus a kids menu (US$5-20). There’s no admission or minimum consumption, but they charge US$8.50 to use the lounge chairs.
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
Isla Mujeres’s nightlife ranges from laid-back lounges to nightclubs, and from beach bars to sports bars. Fortunately, the town is small enough that you can wander about until you find the scene that suits you best.
Bars
At the north end of Playa Norte, Buho’s (end of Av. Carlos Lazo, no phone, 11am-10:30pm daily) is a classic beachfront watering hole, with swings instead of bar stools, shells and buoys as decoration, and hammocks and lounge chairs within easy reach.
Soggy Peso Bar & Grill (Av. Gustavo Rueda Medina, tel. 998/274-0050, http://soggypeso.net, 9am-8:30pm daily) is a favorite for daytime drinkin’ Americans, open early and closed not long after sunset (the view of which, by the way, is terrific here). The vibe is casual and jocular, and every day there’s a different special from the kitchen: Hot Wings Wednesdays, Cheeseburgers in Paradise Thursdays, BBQ Sunday, etc. It’s located south of the center, on the waterfront.
Live Music
La Terraza (Av Hidalgo at Av. Abasolo, tel. 998/236-3879 or 998/877-0528, 5pm-midnight daily) has great live salsa, cumbia, and other Latin dance music most nights after 10pm. Drinks here are excellent and the food isn’t bad, but it’s the music and lively atmosphere that will draw you in, night after night.
Fayne’s (Hidalgo 12, tel. 998/877-0528, 5pm-midnight daily, no cover) features live nightly music, mostly Caribbean but with a smattering of rock and reggae acts as well. The high palapa roof and spacious bar area make it equally suited for dancing or just chilling out; you can even order dinner here, from pasta to seafood. Thursday-Sunday are the busiest nights, often with two bands starting as early as 6pm; otherwise, things get hopping around 10pm.
Down the street, the tiki-bar-themed Kokonuts (Av. Hidalgo near Av. López Mateos, tel. 998/125-1772, 7pm-3am daily, no cover) features cover bands, from salsa to Johnny Cash.
JAX Bar and Grill (Av. López Mateos at Av. Rueda Medina, tel. 998/877-1254, www.jaxsportfishing.com/bar.asp, 8am-11pm daily, no cover) has catered to Isla’s yacht crews and visiting Joe Six-Packs for years, with utilitarian breakfasts and burgers during the day and live country blues and classic rock bands playing nightly during the high season (9pm-11pm). JAX is closed in September.
SHOPPING
It’s easy to be put off by the onslaught of kitschy souvenirs and cheap T-shirts that greet you as soon as you step off the ferry. But fear not: Isla Mujeres has a number of genuinely good specialty stores, especially for Mexican artesanía, if you keep your eyes open.
A jewel in a street of T-shirt shops, Aztlán (Av. Hidalgo at Av. Madero, tel. 998/887-0419, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat.) sells gorgeous Mexican masks and folk art from every corner of the country. The owners, transplants from Mexico City, also make popular religious art that fills one section of the shop.
Galería de Arte Mexicano (Parque Central, Av. Guerrero 3, tel. 998/877-1272, 9:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 9:30am-5pm Sun.) has fine Talavera pottery as well as an extensive selection of silver jewelry. The prices are somewhat higher here than elsewhere, but so is the quality.
La Sirena (Av. Morelos near Av. Hidalgo, tel. 998/877-0223, 10am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) is a tiny shop that’s jam-packed with high-quality folk art from all over Mexico: textiles from Chiapas, masks from Guerrero, skeleton art from Mexico City, and alebrijes (wooden creatures) from Oaxaca. The prices are somewhat inflated, but bargaining is welcome.
Mañana Café (Av. Matamoros at Av. Guerrero, tel. 998/877-0555, 8am-4pm Mon.-Sat.) has long housed Isla Mujeres’s best foreign-language bookstore. You can buy, sell, and trade everything from beach trash to Maya history; there are titles in English, German, Hebrew, and Spanish.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Scuba Diving
Beginner divers will appreciate the still water and vibrant sealife on Isla Mujeres’s western side, while the east side presents more challenging options for advanced divers, with deeper water (up to 40 meters/131 feet), more varied terrain, and even a couple of shipwrecks. Favorite sites include La Bandera (a reef dive), Media Luna (a drift dive), Ultrafreeze (a shipwreck, in notoriously chilly water), and the famous Sleeping Shark Cave—a deep cave known to attract sharks, where they fall into a strangely lethargic and nonaggressive state. Explanations for this last phenomenon vary: Salinity of the water, low carbon dioxide, and underwater currents are some theories. Unfortunately, overfishing (and overdiving) has disrupted the slumber party, and there’s only a 50-50 chance, at best, of seeing sharks on any given day. September seems to be the best month, but you just never know.
Isla Mujeres’s dive shops charge fairly uniform rates: US$65-80 for two tanks; gear and marine park admission is sometimes included, otherwise they cost US$10-18 per day. The Sleeping Shark Cave and deep dives run a little higher, and most shops offer multi-dive specials. Open-water certification courses cost around US$365, including equipment and materials.
Aqua Adventures (Av. Juárez at Calle Morelos, tel. 998/236-4316, www.diveislamujeres.com, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat.) goes the extra mile to provide friendly, professional service.
Sea Hawk Divers (Av. Carlos Lazo at Av. López Mateos, tel. 998/877-1233, www.isla-mujeres.net/seahawkdivers, 9am-8pm daily) is a recommended dive shop owned and run by island local Ariel Barandica. Sea Hawk has a half-dozen comfortable rooms and studios attached to the dive shop, which it can include as part of a diving package.
Buzos de Mexico (Av. Madero at Hidalgo, tel. 998/877-1117, www.buzosdemexico.com, 8am-8pm daily) is a newer dive shop with a youthful vibe.
Scualo Adventures (Av. Madero at Guerrero, tel. 998/877-0607, www.scualoadventures.com, 8:30am-8pm daily) is another reliable option.
Carey Dive Center (Av. Matamoros near Av. Rueda Medina, tel. 998/877-0763, www.careydivecenter.com, 8am-8pm daily) is a recommended dive shop that enjoys lots of repeat customers.
Snorkeling
Isla Mujeres’s western side has calm water and extensive coral reefs that make for excellent snorkeling, though relatively few spots are accessible from the shore. Snorkeling tours can be booked at dive shops or with one of the local cooperatives—Cooperativa Isla Bonita (UltraMar Pier, cell. tel. 998/134-6103) and Cooperativa Isla Mujeres (aka Cooperativa Isla Contoy, end of Av. Madero, tel. 998/877-1363)—or from booths on Playa Norte and at the ferry pier. Most operators take snorkelers to El Farito (The Lighthouse) and other spots near the northern end of the island, where the coral is decent but quite trafficked; afternoons are less busy. Dive shops are more likely to take you to less-visited spots.
You can also arrange to snorkel at MUSA, the remarkable underwater sculpture park near Manchones reef, at the southern end of the island. Dive shops and other operators charge around US$40 per person for a trip combining MUSA and one other spot.
Yet another option is to take a trip to Isla Contoy (US$65 pp), which includes snorkeling on Ixlanche reef in addition to exploring the island. Boats depart Isla Mujeres around 9:15am and return at 4pm.
And you can snorkel on your own at Garrafón de Castilla Hotel and Beach Club (Carr. Punta Sur Km. 6, tel. 998/877-0107, 9am-5pm daily, US$4.25), at the southern tip of the island. The club itself is pretty desultory, but you can explore over 300 meters (894 feet) of coral reef, including the part used by its much-hyped neighbor, Parque Garrafón. Snorkel gear rents for US$6, and lockers and towels can be rented for around US$2.
Whale Shark Tours
Snorkeling with whale sharks, the world’s largest fish, is an experience you won’t soon forget. These gentle giants congregate along the northeastern tip of the Yucatán Peninsula from mid-May to mid-September and typically measure 6-7.5 meters (20-25 feet) and weigh more than 10 tons. (They’re known to grow upwards of 18 meters, or nearly 60 feet, though such behemoths are rare here.) From Isla Mujeres, whale shark tours leave around 8am for a 60- to 90-minute boat ride northwest past Isla Contoy toward Isla Holbox (where such tours first became popular). Once in the feeding grounds, you’ll see the huge sharks trolling along the surface, feeding on krill. The boat is maneuvered nearby the shark, and a guide plus two guests slip overboard and swim alongside. The sharks are surprisingly fast, despite their languid appearance, and you have to kick hard to keep up and get a good look at their sleek spotted bodies and massive gaping mouths. The smaller your group, the more chances you’ll have to get into the water, though most people welcome the short breathers between turns. Rules also require that boats not linger with any one shark more than 30 minutes; in all, each guest can expect to have two to four chances to jump in.
Two local cooperatives handle most whale shark tours, charging around US$110 per person: Cooperativa Isla Bonita (UltraMar Pier, cell. tel. 998/134-6103, 9am-5pm daily) and Cooperativa Isla Mujeres (aka Cooperativa Isla Contoy, end of Av. Madero, tel. 998/877-1363, 9am-5pm daily). Most dive shops in Isla Mujeres also offer whale shark tours, charging around US$125 per person. Always confirm the departures times, how long the tour will last, and whether lunch and water are provided.
Swimming with Dolphins
Dolphin Discovery (end of Carr. Sac Bajo, tel. 998/849-4748, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/713-8862, www.dolphindiscovery.com, US$79-169) offers various dolphin interaction programs on the island’s calm western shore, as well as ones with manatees and sea lions. Parque Garrafón, a nearby sister park with snorkeling, ziplines, and more, has packages combining Dolphin Discovery programs and admission to Garrafón, a good option if you’d like to make a day of it. Most visitors come from Cancún on Dolphin Discovery’s private ferry (included in the price), though no transport is provided for guests staying on Isla Mujeres. Reservations are required.
Ecoparks
Built on a bluff at the southern end of Isla Mujeres, Parque Garrafón (Carr. Garrafón Km. 6, tel. 998/849-4748, www.garrafon.com, 10am-5pm daily, US$85-175 adult all-inclusive, US$65-115 child all-inclusive) is a combo ecopark and water park. There’s snorkeling, kayaking, ziplining, an interactive dolphin program (conducted at Dolphin Discovery, a nearby sister park), and, of course, just relaxing on the beach or by the pool. Ferry service to and from Cancún is included, as well as admission to Templo de Ixchel, a tiny Maya ruin nearby. However, if you’re staying in Isla Mujeres, transportation to and from the park is not included.
Sportfishing
Cooperativa Isla Bonita (UltraMar Pier, cell. tel. 998/134-6103, 9am-5pm daily) and Cooperativa Isla Mujeres (aka Cooperativa Isla Contoy, end of Av. Madero, tel. 998/877-1363, 9am-5pm daily) both offer pesca deportiva (sportfishing). Boats typically carry up to six people for the same price, and prices include nonalcoholic drinks, sandwiches, and bait. Two trips are usually available, depending on the season: Pesca Mediana (US$50 per hour, 3-4 hours minimum) focuses on midsize fish, including snapper, grouper, and barracuda; and Pesca Mayor (US$250 for 4 hours, US$600 for 8 hours) goes after large catch such as marlin and sailfish. Reserve directly at the pier. Sea Hawk Divers (Av. Carlos Lazo at Av. López Mateos, tel. 998/877-1233, www.isla-mujeres.net/seahawkdivers, 9am-10pm daily) offers comparable services for half-day shore and deep-sea fishing trips (US$350).
JAX Sportfishing (JAX Bar and Grill, Av. López Mateos at Av. Rueda Medina, tel. 998/877-1254, www.jaxsportfishing.com, US$950) has an experienced English-speaking captain and offers all-day charters for a maximum of four anglers, ensuring highly personalized service.
Spas
Hotel Villa Rolandi (Carr. Sac Bajo 15-16, tel. 998/999-2000, www.villarolandi.com, 9am-8:30pm daily) has a full-service spa that specializes in using the positive energy and elements of the ocean. A full line of massages, body treatments, and facials is offered.
In downtown Isla, Casa Luz Spa (Av. Juárez btwn Calles Bravo and Allende, tel. 998/202-0081, casaluz_280@yahoo.com.mx, 7am-8pm Mon.-Sat.) has a loyal following among locals and repeat visitors thanks to the skill and personalized service of its founder. Massages, facials, and body treatments include first-rate products, yet remain quite affordable. Some treatments are available at your hotel.
Yoga
Yoga classes are offered at two hotels on Isla: Elements of the Island (Av. Juárez btwn Avs. López Mateos and Matamoros, cell. tel. 998/274-0098 or 998/117-8651, www.elementsoftheisland.com, 9am Mon.-Fri., US$10) and Na Balam (Calle Zazil-Ha No. 118, tel. 998/881-4770, www.nabalam.com, 9am, 11am, and 6pm daily, US$12). At either place, ask about monthly rates if you plan to stay awhile.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Isla Mujeres has a wide variety of lodging options, from youth hostels to upscale boutique hotels. Most budget and midrange places are in the centro, while higher-end resorts occupy secluded areas farther down the island (which may mean you’ll need to rent a golf cart to get around).
Under US$50
Isla Mujeres’s longtime backpacker haven, Poc Na Hostel (Av. Matamoros near Av. Lazo, tel. 998/877-0090, www.pocna.com, US$6.25 pp camping, US$10-13 pp dorm, US$14.50 pp dorm with a/c, US$25 s/d with shared bath, US$30 d with private bath, US$25-35.50 with private bath and a/c) is a busy labyrinth of rooms, courtyards, and common areas, just steps from the island’s best beach. Dorm rooms have 4-9 bunks each and are priced by the thickness of the mattress (thin, thinner, and thinnest); private rooms have cement floors and whitewashed walls. There’s foosball, table tennis, and TV in the various common areas, plus a dining room with basic food service. The hostel hosts live music most nights and organizes frequent events—from volleyball tournaments to Isla Contoy excursions. The drawbacks are no kitchen access and a serious risk of never leaving. Visa and MasterCard are accepted.
Hotel Maria del Pilar (Calle Abasolo 15, tel. 998/877-0071, US$22-26 d) is a small, well-located hotel with simple but tidy rooms, most with TV, air-conditioning, and minifridge, plus Wi-Fi and shared kitchen for all. It’s a fine choice for budget travelers who want some of the conveniences of a hostel without the scene.
Hotel Carmelina (Av. Guerrero 4, tel. 998/877-0006, US$29 s/d with a/c) is a reliable budget choice. It has a slightly residential-motel feel (the family who runs it lives on the ground floor, and another room houses a manicure shop), but the rooms are clean, albeit small, with hot water, TV, and air-conditioning. Larger double and triple rooms are available (US$47.50-55).
US$50-100
A charming place and outstanding value, Casa El Pío (Av. Hidalgo near Av. Bravo, tel. 998/229-2799, www.casaelpio.com, US$65-72 s/d with a/c) is a four-room boutique-ish hotel with cool minimalist decor accented with artsy touches and splashes of color. Rooms are spacious and comfortably equipped with good beds, separate seating areas, balconies (two with ocean view), and Wi-Fi; each also has a minifridge, coffeemaker, and a cutting board for light food preparation. There’s also a small mosaic-tile plunge pool for cooling off after a day at the beach. Adults only; reservations are highly recommended.
Hotel Kinich (Av. Juárez near Av. Matamoros, tel. 998/877-0791, www.islamujereskinich.com, US$62-72 s/d, US$109 suite) is a great find in downtown Isla: Rooms are simple but elegant with warm wood furnishings, muted colors, and Mexican wall art from Guadalajara. All rooms have quiet air-conditioning, cable TV, and Wi-Fi, and more than half of them also have king-size beds. Two gorgeous suites occupy the top floor—modern one-bedroom apartments with state-of-the-art kitchens, outdoor Jacuzzis, and views of town. The only downer is that the hotel occupies a four-story building with no elevator, but, hey, at least you’ll get your workouts in.
Hotel Xbulu-Ha (Av. Guerrero btwn Avs. Abasolo and Madero, tel. 998/877-1783, www.islamujeres.biz, US$46-57 s/d, US$58-70 suite with kitchenette and a/c) offers bright and airy rooms with modern amenities like cable TV, mini-split air conditioners, and safety deposit boxes. The beds are double sized—something to consider if you plan on sharing. Suites are larger versions of the standard rooms, with fully equipped kitchenettes and king-size beds. Wi-Fi and beach supplies (towels, chairs, and coolers) are included in the rate. The hotel is located just one block from the Caribbean.
Hotel Las Palmas (Av. Guerrero near Av. López Mateos, cell. tel. 998/236-5803, www.laspalmasonisla.com, US$80 s/d with a/c, US$90 s/d with a/c and kitchenette, US$100 penthouse) is a homey hotel run by a friendly mother-daughter team from Canada. Rooms are small but tastefully decorated, with creature comforts like good water pressure, pillow-top beds, even full-length mirrors. There’s lots of common space for relaxing and socializing, including a rooftop lounge with hammocks, shared kitchen, and a plunge pool. Most guests enjoy the camaraderie, but those seeking seclusion may find it overly hostel-like. (It doesn’t help that most rooms open right onto the common areas.) There’s a five-night minimum in high season.
Seemingly out of place on this boho island is Bahía Chac-Chi (Av. Rueda Medina near Av. Allende, tel. 998/877-1797, www.bahiachac-chi.com, US$107 bay view, US$93 pool view, including continental breakfast), a sleek hotel that oozes cool, with gleaming white floors, minimalist decor, and original fine art. Rooms themselves have all the amenities of a high-end hotel—plasma TVs, central air-conditioning, thick beds, hydromassage showers—plus balconies with incredible ocean views. An inviting pool is tucked into an interior courtyard. The only thing missing is the beach, and that’s just a five-minute walk away. Service is excellent.
B&Bs and boutique hotels are a nice way to enjoy Isla Mujeres’s tranquil island atmosphere.
© GARY CHANDLER
Elements of the Island (Av. Juárez btwn Avs. López Mateos and Matamoros, cell. tel. 998/274-0098 or 998/117-8651, www.element-softheisland.com, US$85 s/d with a/c) has three lovely studio apartments, each with fine wood furnishings, flowing white curtains, and bursts of color. All rooms have king-size beds and basic kitchenettes, plus Wi-Fi and TVs with DVD players. Guests pass through a leafy courtyard with a gurgling fountain to access the rooms, which are behind the hotel’s highly recommended restaurant. Common spaces include a hot tub and hammock area as well as a rooftop yoga studio. Kind and attentive owners provide excellent service.
Simple and well located, Suites Los Arcos (Av. Hidalgo near Av. Abasolo, tel. 998/877-1343, US$70-80 s/d with a/c) has large, colorful rooms with gleaming bathrooms and heavy wood furnishings. All have a small fridge, microwave, and coffeemaker, plus TV, air conditioner, and Wi-Fi. Four of the 12 rooms have balconies—two overlook the pedestrian walkway and are great for people-watching (but can be noisy), while the others face the opposite direction and are huge and sunny.
Hotel & Restaurant Bucaneros (Calle Hidalgo near Av. Madero, tel. 998/877-1228, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/227-4765, www.bucaneros.com, US$45-55 s/d with a/c, US$62-80 s/d with a/c and kitchenette) has 16 nicely appointed rooms, all with modern bathrooms, air-conditioning, and Wi-Fi, plus continental breakfast. The budget rooms are quite small, though not uncomfortable, while larger ones have a kitchenette (hot plate, minifridge, and toaster) and in some cases a balcony and separate dining area. The location couldn’t be more central, but it can be noisy at night.
US$100-200
A colonial-style home turned boutique inn, Casa Sirena (Av. Hidalgo near Av. Bravo, no phone, www.sirena.com.mx, US$125-155 s/d with a/c) has just six rooms, all sumptuously appointed with teak furnishings, Tiffany lamps, stone-tiled bathrooms, and extras like iPod docks and laptop-size safes; some rooms also boast beautiful Talavera tile floors. A full Mexican breakfast—huevos divorciados, enfrijoladas, chicken enchiladas—is served daily (except Sunday) on the small, leafy patio. Every evening, guests also enjoy a happy hour with the gregarious owner, who serves up potent cocktails on the rooftop terrace. Other features include two plunge pools (one with Venetian glass tiles), a sundeck with almost 360-degree views of the Caribbean, and Wi-Fi. Online reservations are required; adults only.
The boutique Casa IxChel (Av. Martínez Ross at Carr. Perimetral, tel. 998/888-0107, www.casaixchelisla.com, US$64-181 s/d with a/c, US$208 one-bdrm apt with a/c, US$353 three-bdrm apt with a/c) has just 10 rooms, all with names like Grace, Karma, and Serenity. Standard rooms are tiny, suites have a bit more breathing room, and you can actually unpack your bags in the apartments. But even in the small quarters, each room has a deep bathtub, luxurious beds, and classy decor; the apartments have fully equipped kitchens, too. There are great ocean views from the pool and patio area, though it’s too rough and rocky for swimming here. A top-floor restaurant serves mostly Italian, American, and seafood dishes. Children over 12 only, except during Easter, Christmas, and summer, when all ages are welcome.
The adults-only Villa La Bella (Carr. Perimetral, tel. 998/888-0342, www.villala-bella.com, US$135 s/d with a/c, US$175 suite, US$195 honeymoon suite with a/c) is run by an amiable American couple who give warm, personalized service to all their guests. There are just six units: three bright pool-front rooms with whimsical decor, two 2nd-floor palapa-roofed units with hanging beds (but no air-conditioning), and a colorful honeymoon suite with fantastic ocean views from its two terraces. There also is a well-maintained pool on-site. A gourmet breakfast is included (except Monday) and served in the eclectic open-air lounge, where you can also score great cocktails and ice-cold beer.
Hotel Secreto (Sección Rocas 11, tel. 998/877-1039, www.hotelsecreto.com, US$225-300 s/d with a/c) is classy glass and stucco hotel that’s good for couples who want a quiet getaway without having to go down island. The beach here isn’t swimmable (Playa Norte is a short walk away), but there are gorgeous views from the rooms and the hotel’s long, narrow infinity pool. Rooms have native stone floors, plasma TVs, iPod docks, pillow-top mattresses, and huge private balconies. Upkeep can be lacking, but not egregiously. Continental breakfast is included, and there’s a small gym.
Hotel Villa Rolandi (Carr. Sac Bajo 15-16, tel. 998/999-2000, www.villarolandi.com, US$307-389 s/d with a/c) is a Mediterranean-style hotel on Isla’s calm southwestern shore. Romance is the buzz word here, with two-person showers, steam baths, and private terraces with whirlpool tubs; ask for a room on the 2nd and 3rd floor for the most privacy. Continental breakfast at the hotel’s excellent oceanfront restaurant is included. The concierge can organize personalized excursions around the island, though the hotel’s elevated pools, private beach, and first-rate spa are good reasons to stay put. Complimentary yacht service to and from Cancún’s Playa Linda is included, too. Note that it’s for children over age 13 only.
Casa de los Sueños (Carr. Garrafón, tel. 998/888-0370, www.casasuenos.com, US$275-375 d, US$550 presidential suite) is a gorgeous boutique hotel with just 10 immaculate rooms and personalized service. Located on a bluff at the southern end of the island, the hotel has gorgeous views, including from the large infinity pool. There’s no beach, unfortunately, but a large pier does well for swimming, sunbathing, and spa treatments, while the hotel’s excellent restaurant-bar is on the water’s edge. Bikes, kayaks, and snorkel gear are available for exploring.
All-Inclusive
Privilege Aluxes (Av Lopez Mateos at Gustavo Rueda Medina, tel. 998/848-8470, www.privilegehotels.com, US$120-250 d) is a newish resort with both all-inclusive and B&B options. The beach club is lovely and a highlight for most travelers, despite having to walk across the street to get there. The hotel’s pool is sleek and clean (though oddly chilly), and rooms large and comfortable.
Isla Mujeres Palace (Carr. Sac Bajo, tel. 998/999-2020, www.palaceresorts.com, US$260-450 s/d with a/c) is an upscale, couples-only all-inclusive resort with just 62 rooms and an exclusive getaway vibe. Suites have king-size beds and muted modern decor. There’s only one restaurant, but it’s a good one, with international cuisine and even a dress code. The beach and pool areas are lovely, though noise from neighboring beach clubs can be annoying.
Apartments and Private Homes
If you feel like lingering for a while in Isla Mujeres—and who doesn’t?—consider booking an apartment or private home. There are a surprising number available, both in town and down island, running the gamut in size and price, and available by the week or month. Check out the options at agencies like Lost Oasis (www.lostoasis.net) and Isla Beckons (www.islabeckons.com), which specialize in Isla Mujeres, or at Vacation Rentals by Owner (www.vrbo.com).
FOOD
Seafood is the specialty in Isla Mujeres, even more so than in Cancún. In fact, much of the lobster and fish served on the Riviera Maya is caught near Isla Mujeres, so it stands to reason that it’s freshest here.
Mexican and Seafood
Run and supplied by the fishermen’s co-op, Restaurante Justicia Social (Av. Rueda Medina near Av. Allende, cell. tel. 998/230-4803, 11am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-8pm Sat.-Sun., US$6-12) serves up some of the freshest seafood on the island. Octopus, shrimp, oysters, conch, and all sorts of fish fillets are served on the patio overlooking the Caribbean or in the simple dining room. Tikinxik (TEEK-in-cheek), a whole grilled fish prepared using a spicy red sauce that’s derived from pre-Hispanic Maya cuisine, is offered weekends only; delivery is available daily.
Bally Hoo (Av. Rueda Medina near Av. Abasolo, no phone, 7:30am-11pm daily, US$3.50-10) may be stuck behind a gas station and a slew of moored boats, but the Baja-style breaded fish tacos are to die for, and well worth any necessary searching. The fish and chips are great, too, and if you’ve got an appetite, the fish fillet or shrimp dishes are filling. Cold beers (US$1.50) and margaritas (US$3) are the perfect accompaniment.
La Lomita (Av. Juárez near Av. Allende, tel. 998/826-6335, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat., US$4.25-6), a brightly painted restaurant frequented by locals, offers tasty Mexican fare. Comida corrida—a two-course lunch special with drink—is offered daily and often includes chiles rellenos, tacos, and stews. Ceviche, grilled whole fish, and other seafood meals also are featured at reasonable prices.
Mercado Municipal (Av. Guerrero at Av. Matamoros, 6am-4pm daily) also has a handful of simple eateries that serve cheap meals.
On Playa Lancheros, La Casa del Tikinxik (tel. 998/274-0018, 11am-7pm daily, US$6-10) is a classic Mexican beach restaurant, with metal tables, cold beer, and finger-licking dishes that make the long wait worth it. Be sure to try the specialty, pescado tikinxik.
Other Specialties
Upscale but homey, Olivia (Av. Matamoros btwn Calle Juárez and Av. Rueda Medina, tel. 998/877-1765, www.olivia-isla-mujeres.com, 5pm-9:30pm Tues.-Sat., US$8-18) serves up the best Mediterranean cuisine on the island. Owned by an Israeli couple who pooled their families’ recipes and opened shop, the menu is a phenomenal amalgam of specialties from Morocco, Greece, Bulgaria, and Turkey. Seating is either in the palapa-roofed dining room or in the lush garden courtyard. Reservations are recommended, and it’s cash only.
A casual chic eatery, CoMoNo (Av. Hidalgo btwn Avs. Madero and Morelos, no phone, 2pm-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$8-15) offers a wide range of foods—tapas, falafel, shrimp tempura, Argentinean chorizo, and more—plus sandwiches, great salads, and even hookahs with flavored tobacco. Upstairs, there’s a cool lounge bar where you can catch live music and occasional movies. Seating is indoors and out.
Qubano (Av. Hidalgo btwn Avs. Matamoros and Mateos, cell. tel. 998/214-2118, noon-5pm Mon.-Fri., US$3-6) is a colorful little place offering up a tasty selection of Cuban sandwiches, burgers, and salads. Favorites include the Tostón (plantain slices stuffed with chicken, pork, or picadillo), the Cuban (grilled ham, pork, and cheese), and the goat-cheese-stuffed burger. Snag one of the four tables, enjoy a Cuban coffee while you wait, or take your eats to go.
In a clapboard house facing the lagoon, with fishing boats crowded up next to it, El Varadero (no phone, noon-10pm Tues.-Sun., US$7-14) doesn’t really evoke the famous white-sand beach east of Havana that it’s named for, but good food—and even better mojitos—have a way of trumping geography. Dig into classic Cuban fare while sitting at aluminum tables on an outdoor patio decorated with shipping buoys. Find it at the mouth of Laguna Makax, near Puerto Isla Mujeres.
Whether it’s the prime location, cheerful yellow exterior, or the allure of freshly made cinnamon rolls, Barlito’s (Av. Hidalgo at Av. Abasolo, 8am-3pm Tues.-Sat., US$2-10) is a perennial gathering spot in the center of town. Huge salads, tasty sandwiches, and oh-so-decadent sweets can be eaten in or taken out.
On Playa Norte in front of Nautibeach condos, Sunset Grill (Av. Rueda Medina, tel. 998/877-0785, www.sunsetgrill.com.mx, 8am-10pm daily, US$9-21) offers a great view with mellow beats on one of the best beaches on the island. Beachside chairs and umbrellas are also available for the day if you order from the menu. Food is standard but good, including grilled fish, ceviche, hamburgers, and specials like rib eye and barbecue ribs.
Located partway down the island, Mango Café (Carr. Perimentral at Calle Payo Obispo, tel. 998/274-0118, 8am-3pm and 4pm-10pm daily, US$4-12) has a cheerful bohemian exterior that practically begs a closer look. You’ll be glad you do: Dishes like coconut French toast and eggs Benedict with chaya and portabella mushrooms, plus drinks like ginger lemonade and bottomless organic coffee make this small eatery an island favorite—and that’s just breakfast!
Day and night, Café Hidalgo (Av. Hidalgo near Av. Abasolo, no phone, 8am-10:30pm Tues.-Sun., US$2.50-5) serves up first-rate crepes stuffed with everything from Nutella to huitlacoche (corn fungus). Egg dishes and baguettes also figure prominently for those looking for a bit more heft. Sit at one of the handful of tables on the pedestrian walkway—a great place to linger while watching the beachgoers (and window shoppers) walk by.
Café Mogagua (Av. Madero at Av. Juárez, tel. 998/877-1799, 7am-midnight daily, US$7-12) is a chic but laid-back open-air café with a wide range of eats, from a simple sandwich to a full-on seafood meal. Judging from the comfy lounge chairs aimed at the sun, it’s a good bet no one would bat an eye if you just hunkered down with a paperback novel and an espresso.
Mañana (Av. Matamoros at Av. Guerrero, 8am-4pm Mon.-Sat., US$4-8) offers an eclectic menu with everything from kabobs and falafel to cheeseburgers and schnitzel. Great breakfast options include bagels, omelets, fruit, and granola. Half the dining area houses a bookstore, which, along with the good food and cheerful decor, makes for a natural travelers’ hub.
Specializing in organic products, Elements of the Island Café (Av. Juárez btwn López Mateos and Matamoros, tel. 998/274-0098, www.elementsoftheisland.com, 7:30am-1pm daily except Wed., US$4-8) serves up hearty and healthy meals. Breakfasts are especially popular, with homemade bread and marmalade, and cappuccinos to die for.
Sweets
La Michoacana (Av. Bravo at Av. Hidalgo, 9am-10pm daily, US$1-2.50) offers homemade aguas, paletas, and helados (juices, popsicles, and ice cream). Choose from seasonal fruits including passion fruit, watermelon, pineapple, and mamey. Of course, chocolate- and vanilla-flavored treats are available, too.
Try ParadICE-CREAM (Av. Hidalgo at Av. Morelos, 9:30am-midnight daily, US$2.50-6.50) for terrific handmade gelato.
Groceries
There’s a new Chedraui (7am-8pm daily) about halfway down the island, across from the baseball diamond. To get there, simply follow Avenida Gustavo Rueda Medina; the supermarket will be on your right, just before a sharp bend known as “devil’s curve.”
Xpress Super (Av. Morelos, 7am-10pm daily) is the island’s longtime local grocery store, facing the central plaza.
Mercado Municipal (Av. Guerrero at Av. Matamoros, 6am-4pm daily) has a good selection of fresh fruits and vegetables, and is a fun experience to boot.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
The Oficina de Turismo (Av. Rueda Medina 130, tel. 998/877-0307, www.islamujeres.gob.mx, 9am-4pm daily) sometimes has maps and useful information.
The English-language website www.islamujeres.info has concise and accessible descriptions of various aspects of Isla Mujeres, including activities, tours, taxis, ferry schedules, and history, plus a Q&A section frequented by longtime expats.
Soul de Isla Mujeres (www.souldeisla.com) also has information and recommendations about Isla Mujeres, from restaurants to wedding planners.
Also try www.isla-mujeres.net for information about visiting Isla.
Can-Do Isla Mujeres (www.cancunmap.com, US$10) is a fantastic professional-quality color map of Isla Mujeres. It is extremely detailed, including annotated listings of almost every restaurant, hotel, and point of interest on the island. It is available at a handful of Isla’s restaurants and hotels, and also can be ordered online.
Emergency Services
General practitioner Dr. Antonio E. Salas (Av. Hidalgo 18-D, tel. 998/877-0021, 24-hour tel. 998/877-0477, drsalas@cancun.com.mx, 9am-3pm and 4pm-9pm daily) is highly recommended by islanders. He speaks fluent English and basic German.
If you need immediate assistance, Hospital Integral Isla Mujeres (Av. Guerrero 7, tel. 998/877-0117, 24 hours) is equipped to handle walk-in consultations, simple surgeries, and basic emergencies. In case of a serious injury or illness, patients are taken to a Cancún hospital.
For diving-related injuries, Isla Mujeres’s primary hyperbaric chamber (tel. 998/877-0819, 9am-4pm daily), or cámera hiberbárica in Spanish, is on the pedestrian-only extension of Avenida Morelos, just north of the zócalo.
Farmacia YZA (Av. Benito Juárez at Calle Morelos, no phone, 24 hours) has sunscreen, bug repellent, and toiletries in addition to medications.
The police station (tel. 998/877-0082, 24 hours) is on the central plaza.
Money
HSBC has a bank and ATMs across from the UltraMar pier (Av. Rueda Medina btwn Avs. Madero and Morelos, tel. 998/877-0005, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-3pm Sat.) and an ATM only at Xpress Super grocery store on the central plaza.
Media and Communications
Like many cities in Mexico now, Isla Mujeres has free public Wi-Fi in the central plaza, available to anyone with a computer or mobile device. Most hotels offer Wi-Fi to guests, too.
There are numerous Internet cafés around town, including Europacomputer (Av. Abasolo near Av. Hidalgo, tel. 998/877-1724, 9am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 4pm-9pm Sun, US$1.75/hour) and Café Internet Adrian’s (9am-10pm daily, US$1.75/hour Internet, US$0.35/minute international calls), facing the central plaza.
The post office (Av. Guerrero at Av. López Mateos, tel. 998/877-0085) is open 8am-4pm Monday-Saturday.
Immigration
The immigration office (Av. Rueda Medina near Av. Morelos, tel. 998/877-0189, 8am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-6pm Sat.-Sun.) issues tourist cards to those arriving by boat from another country; for all other matters, including visa extensions, visitors should go to Cancún.
Laundry
Lavandería Lavanda (Av. Vicente Guerrero near Av. Madero, no phone, 7am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-3pm Sun.) will wash, dry, and fold for US$1 per kilo, with a minimum of three kilos (6.6 pounds).
Tim Pho Lavandería (Av. Juárez at Abasolo, no phone, 8am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-2pm Sun.) offers same-day service with a two-hour wait. Loads cost US$5.50 per four kilos (8.8 pounds).
GETTING THERE
A number of ferries ply the turquoise waters of the Bahía de Mujeres (Bay of Women) between Isla Mujeres and various mainland ports in and around Cancún. There is no direct ferry service from Isla Cozumel, however, and despite having an airstrip, no regular air service either.
Passenger Ferries
Passenger-only ferries leave for Isla Mujeres from Cancún in the Zona Hotelera and from Puerto Juárez, about three kilometers (1.9 miles) north of downtown Cancún. If you are just visiting for the day, reconfirm the return times and remember that service to the Zona Hotelera ends earlier than service to Puerto Juárez.
Various passenger ferries (and also a car ferry) leave for Isla Mujeres from Cancún every day. Those leaving from the Zona Hotelera are more expensive and take longer but may be more convenient. In case you’ve got a car, there’s also a vehicle ferry. Note: During the high season, additional departures are occasionally offered.
ZONA HOTELERA
El Embarcadero
UltraMar (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 4, tel. 998/881-5890, www.granpuerto.com.mx, US$11/17 one-way/round-trip, 30 minutes). Departure: 9am, 10:30am, noon, 1:30pm, 2:30pm, and 4:30pm. Return: 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm, 2pm, 4pm, and 5:30pm.
Playa Tortugas
UltraMar (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 7, tel. 998/881-5890, www.granpuerto.com.mx, US$11/17 one-way/round-trip, 30 minutes). Departure: hourly 9am-5pm. Return: hourly 9:30am-5:30pm.
Playa Caracol
UltraMar (Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 9.5, tel. 998/881-5890, www.granpuerto.com.mx, US$11/17 one-way/round-trip, 30 zzzminutes). Departure: 10:10am, 11:40am, 1:10pm, and 4:50pm. Return: 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm, and 4pm.
DOWNTOWN
To get to either of the passenger ferries in downtown Cancún, take the red R-1 bus (US$0.75) on Boulevard Kukulcán or Avenida Tulum; continue past the downtown bus terminal and north out of the city. Gran Puerto is easily located by its tall observation tower. (Be aware that you may be approached by people dressed in UltraMar uniforms who are in fact selling time-shares here.) Puerto Juárez is two blocks past Gran Puerto. It’s the original Isla Mujeres ferry pier, but the boats and waiting area are older. The vehicle ferry at Punta Sam is located on Avenida López Portillo, about five kilometers (3 miles) north of Gran Puerto. On Isla Mujeres, the car ferry pier is a few hundred meters south of the passenger piers, past the naval dock.
Gran Puerto
UltraMar (Av. López Portillo s/n, tel. 998/881-5890, www.granpuerto.com.mx, US$6 each way, 15 minutes) boats feature comfy seats in an air-conditioned cabin and an open-air deck, with televisions playing a short promotional program on Isla Mujeres. Departure: every 30 minutes 5am-8:30pm, then hourly 9:30pm-11:30pm. Return: every 30 minutes 5:30am-9pm, then hourly 9:30pm-midnight.
Puerto Juárez
Transportes Marítimos Magaña (Av. López Portillo s/n, tel. 998/877-0618, US$6 each way, 15 minutes). Departure: every 30 minutes 6:30am-8:30pm, then 11:30pm and 12:30am. Return: every 30 minutes 6am-8pm, then hourly 9pm-11pm.
Punta Sam (Vehicle Ferry)
The lumbering vehicle ferry to Isla Mujeres is run by Marítima Isla Mujeres (Av. López Portillo s/n, tel. 998/877-0065, www.maritimaislamujeres.com, 45-60 minutes). Rates are according to vehicle: US$21.50 for cars, US$28.50 for SUVs and vans, US$7.25 for motorcycles or mopeds, and US$6.85 for bicycles. Rates include the driver only—each additional passenger costs US$3. Arrive about an hour early to get in line; tickets go on sale 30 minutes prior to departure. Departure: 7:15am, 11am, 2:45pm, 5:30pm, and 8:15pm Mon.-Sat. and 9:15am, 1:30pm, 5:30pm, and 8:15pm Sun. Return: 6am, 9:30am, 12:45pm, 4:15pm, and 7:15pm Mon.-Sat. and 8am, noon, 4:15pm, and 7:15pm Sun.
Car Ferries
A vehicle ferry operates from Punta Sam, about eight kilometers (5 miles) north of Cancún past Puerto Juárez.
GETTING AROUND
Isla Mujeres is a small and mostly flat island. In town you can easily walk everywhere. Buses and taxis are available for exploring farther afield, but definitely consider renting a golf cart, moped, or bike for more flexibility and independence.
Bus
There are two bus lines on Isla Mujeres (US$0.35), running the same route but in opposite directions, from downtown to Playa Lancheros and back. They stop in local neighborhoods, but do not reach the far southern tip. Theoretically the buses run every 30 minutes, but be prepared to wait longer than that. There are some official stops, but you can just flag one down wherever you see it.
Taxi
Isla Mujeres has many more taxis than seem necessary—in town, it feels more likely that you’d be hit by a taxi than you’d have trouble finding one. Out of town, you shouldn’t have to wait too long for a taxi to pass, either, and Parque Garrafón, Dolphin Discovery, and Playa Lancheros all have fixed taxi stands. From downtown, rates are US$1-3 around town (including the beaches) and US$3-7 elsewhere on the island. Official rates are posted wherever taxis line up, including Parque Garrafón, Punta Sur, and downtown. Taxis are per trip, not per person, and drivers may pick up other passengers headed the same direction. You can also hire a taxi to give you a private driving tour of the island for US$12.50 per hour. Note: Taxi fares double after dark.
Golf Cart, Moped, and Bicycle Rental
Most rental operations on the island share the same fixed rates: golf carts US$15 per hour, US$46 per day (store hours), and US$54 for 24 hours; mopeds US$8.50 per hour, US$21 per day, US$29 for 24 hours; and bicycles (including helmet and lock) US$2.50 per hour, US$10 per day, US$12.50 for 24 hours.
Note: Isla Mujeres has a regular occurrence of serious accidents involving tourists driving mopeds. Riding double is a major culprit: Mopeds are much harder to control with two people riding instead of one. Poor roads and wet and windy conditions are also dangerous, not to mention unpredictable. Better to rent a bike or golf cart, or at least separate mopeds.
Agencies right at the ferry pier sometimes charge slightly more than those a few blocks away. Solid choices include Ciro’s (Av. Guerrero near Av. Matamoros, tel. 998/877-0568, 8:30am-5pm daily), El Sol (Av. Juárez btwn Avs. Abasolo and Matamoros, tel. 998/877-0791, 9am-5pm daily), and Pelícanos (Av. Matamoros near Av. Guerrero, cell. tel. 998/223-1365, 7am-5pm daily).
Isla Mujeres Golf Cart Rentals (www.islamujeresgolfcartrentals.com) is a convenient new service that makes renting a golf cart easy. Rates are slightly higher than you’d pay normally, but you can reserve and pay online, the cart can be delivered to your hotel, and someone even comes by every day or two to fill the gas tank. Four- and six-seat carts are available; discounts for longer rentals.
At the northeastern tip of Quintana Roo, where the Caribbean Sea mingles with the Gulf of Mexico, and completely within the Yum Balam reserve, Isla Holbox (hole-BOASH) is one of the last reasonably obscure islands along the Yucatán Peninsula. The town of Holbox is a fishing village with sand roads, golf carts instead of cars, no cell phone service, no hospital, and no post office. (There is one ATM on the 2nd floor of the town hall, though it’s often empty.) Instead, you’ll find brightly painted homes, palapa-roofed hotels, and a handful of Italian and Spanish expats who have opened bed-and-breakfasts and small restaurants. The water here is emerald—not the clear turquoise of Cancún and Tulum—and while the sand is thinner, the beach is loaded with seashells and is no less scenic. Holbox is becoming well known as a place to snorkel with behemoth but harmless whale sharks—present from June to September—and also has great opportunities for bird-watching, kayaking, and sportfishing. Above all, Holbox offers a sense of peace and tranquility that is increasingly hard to find on Mexico’s Caribbean coast, and the feeling of a place as yet untouched by big business.
HISTORY
Indigenous Maya inhabited Holbox for centuries but abandoned the island more than 300 years before the first Europeans arrived. The name of the island and town is a matter of some dispute. Some say holbox is derived from a Maya term meaning “black water” and is a reference to the island’s natural springs, whose dark depths make the water appear black. A more popular, albeit fantastical, story is that the pirate Francisco de Molas buried a treasure on the island and cut off the head of his African bodyguard so that his ghost would watch over the spot for eternity. De Molas was promptly killed by a snakebite, but the disembodied head of his bodyguard has appeared occasionally to islanders, trying to divulge the treasure’s location but succeeding only in scaring everyone away. By this latter account, the island originally would have been called poolbox (black head), and was altered later by European settlers.
Storms are serious business on this low, flat island, which is regularly buffeted by tropical conflagrations. In fact, the town was originally located farther west but was destroyed by a hurricane and rebuilt in its current location about 150 years ago. Nortes are fall and winter storms that sweep down the Gulf coast bringing rain and turbid seas. Maja’ che is the Maya name for sudden winds that can knock over trees; they are most common in April and May. In major storms, the whole island is evacuated.
SIGHTS
Whale Shark Feeding Grounds
From June to September, large numbers of whale sharks—the world’s largest fish, typically measuring 6-7.5 meters (20-25 feet) and weighing more than 10 tons—congregate in shallow waters about 16 kilometers (10 miles) east of Holbox village. Despite their size, the sharks are completely harmless, eating plankton, krill, and other tiny organisms, much like baleen whales. Snorkeling with whale sharks is a unique and (to some) nerve-wracking experience. The captain pulls the boat alongside a shark—at Holbox they tend to feed on the surface—and two guests and a guide slip into the water with life jackets, masks, snorkels, and fins. The water tends to be murky (it’s all the sealife in the water that attracts the sharks in the first place), and the sharks are surprisingly fast. Still, you get a good view of these enormous, gentle animals, with their tiny eyes, bizarre shovel mouths, and dark spotted skin. It’s best to be on a small tour—since you go in two by two, you’ll get more time in the water. Tours cost around US$85-140 per person, last 4-6 hours, and typically include snorkel gear, a life preserver, a box lunch, and nonalcoholic beverages. Some trips also include a stop on the way back for snorkeling or to visit the island’s inland lagoons and mangrove forest.
Playa Norte
Playa Norte is Holbox’s scenic main beach, extending eastward along the island’s long, north-facing shore; it is broad and flat, with white sand, and dotted with stands of tangled dune grass. The number of homes and hotels along the beach grows every year—most have lounge chairs available to guests, but there’s less and less open space for everyone else to lay out a towel. That said, Playa Norte is still great for beachcombing and shell collecting, and sunbathing if you walk far enough down. Better yet, spring for a hotel on the beach.
Isla Pájaros
Located in Yalahau Lagoon, Isla Pájaros (Bird Island) is a wildlife sanctuary and the permanent home to some 150 species of birds, including frigate birds, white ibis, double-crested cormorants, roseate spoonbills, and boat-billed herons. In addition, between May and September up to 40,000 flamingos nest on Holbox before their long winter migration to South America. Environmental restrictions mean you can’t simply wander on Isla Pájaros, but two observation towers and walkways make spotting birds easy. Most tour operators offer bird-watching trips here (US$45 pp), usually by lancha (motorboat), though kayak tours also can be arranged.
Snorkel with whale sharks, the biggest fish in the world, from Isla Holbox.
© LIZA PRADO
Yalahau Spring
Said to have been used by pirates to fill their water barrels, Yalahau Spring is an ojo de agua (natural spring) on the edge of the mainland. Today, it is a picturesque swimming hole complete with a large palapa, picnic area, and pier. A trip here typically is combined with a stop to Isla Pájaros.
Isla de la Pasión
Just 15 minutes from town by boat, Isla de la Pasión is a tiny deserted island just 50 meters (164 feet) wide. It’s known for its white-sand beach and beautiful emerald waters—perfect for a relaxing day at the beach. There are trees and a large palapa for shade. Be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks—there are no services on the island.
CINEMA
Holbox’s long-suffering cinephiles can finally rejoice: The island’s first movie theater (Plaza del Pueblito, Av. Benito Juárez near Porfirio Díaz, no phone, US$2.75) opened in 2011 in Plaza del Pueblito, a small commercial center just off the main square. It may diminish the deserted-island feel somewhat, but locals certainly appreciate not having to trek to Cancún for the latest Twilight flick.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
Festival de San Telmo
Most of Holbox’s residents live by fishing, and the island has over 400 fishing boats and numerous fishing cooperatives. It’s no surprise, then, that San Telmo, the patron saint of fishermen, is celebrated here with fervor. The party lasts for two weeks in mid-April, with food stands, live performances, and special events, including a popular sportfishing tournament. The festival ends on April 19 when fishermen and their families participate in a huge boat procession followed by general revelry in the decked-out main square.
Festival de La Virgen de Fatima
In mid-May, Holbox celebrates the Virgin of Fatima, the community’s official patron saint. Held just a month after the San Telmo blowout, this festival is more austere, with religious processions and more folksy music and other performances. That said, it’s still a party.
Environmental Week
What started as an effort to educate children about the environment has turned into an annual island-wide event known as “Environmental Week.” The first week of July is dedicated to environmental education and action, still focused on schoolkids, but involving parents and even visitors. Tourists can join the students in one of the week’s biggest events: picking up trash from the beach.
SHOPPING
Holbox isn’t exactly a shopper’s paradise, but there is a string of boutiques along Avenida Igualdad (just east of the central plaza) selling everything from handcrafted jewelry to whale shark magnets. Among them, Artesanías Las Chicas (tel. 984/875-2430, 9am-3pm and 6pm-10pm Tues.-Sun.) stands out for its high-end folk art, mostly from central and southern Mexico. It’s a bit pricey, but the items are unique.
Bug Patrol
Isla Holbox’s famous whale sharks may weigh 10 tons and have mouths that measure five feet across, but it’s the island’s itty-bitty residents that pack the meanest bite. Mosquitoes, sand flies, and tábanos (horseflies) can be fierce, particularly in the summer and after heavy rains. Bring bug repellent and use it liberally, day and night. Another tip: Always dry off and re-apply repellent immediately after swimming—horseflies love skin that’s moist, especially with seawater.
If you’re into shells, Lalo.com (Av. Abasolo near Av. Pedro Joaquín Coldwell, tel. 984/875-2118) is jam-packed with beautifully polished conchas from around the world. The owner, maestro Lalo, lives below the shop—just ring his bell, and he’ll open up the shop.
Malls and movies have come to Holbox—well, make that “mall” and “movie,” but it’s a milestone all the same. Inaugurated in 2011, Plaza del Pueblito (Av. Benito Juárez near Porfirio Díaz) is a small commercial center located just off the central plaza, with boutiques, eateries, and the island’s one and only movie theater, a one-screen affair showing reasonably recent Hollywood films (US$2.75).
SPORTS AND RECREATION
There is a lot to do on Holbox, and various excursions can be arranged through your hotel, local tour operators, or done on your own. Most of Holbox’s tour operators offer the full gamut of excursions, at comparable prices. Recommended outfits include Posada Mawimbi (Av. Igualdad on the beach, tel. 984/875-2003, www.mawimbi.net) and Mextreme Travel (central plaza, Av. Palomino s/n, tel. 984/875-2358, www.mextreme-travel.com, 8am-11pm daily).
Snorkeling
Besides swimming with whale sharks, the best place to snorkel on Isla Holbox is Cabo Catoche, a coral reef in about 2-4 meters (6.5-13 feet) of water at the far eastern end of the island. The water isn’t as clear as in Isla Mujeres or Cancún, but the reef here is more pristine and the animal life more abundant, including stingrays, moray eels, nurse sharks, sea stars, conch, and myriad fish. Because it is so far from town, tour operators usually prefer to combine it with another outing, such as an island tour or a whale shark excursion.
Wind Sports
Holbox’s steady winds and shallow, nearly waveless coastal waters make it ideal for wind sports, particularly kiteboarding and windsurfing. The strongest winds are from September to March, while July and August tend to have lighter, novice-friendly breezes.
Gabriel Olmos Aguirre (aka Gabo) is a popular and accomplished instructor offering courses at all levels through his outfit, Holbox Kiteboarding School (Hotel Casa Las Tortugas, Av. Igualdad s/n, cell. tel. 984/144-2227, www.holboxkiteboarding.com), and in association with shops elsewhere in the Riviera Maya. Instruction prices, including gear, range US$50-65 per hour (private lessons) to US$40-45 per hour (group lessons); nine-hour courses also are offered for US$500 (private) and US$360 (group). Wakeboarding classes are offered on those days the wind dies down (US$60-75/hour).
Another one-man shop, Mohicano (Av. Igualdad s/n, cell. tel. 984/115-9090, babyshark6977@hotmail.com) is based out of a beach cabana near Casa Sandra. Kiteboarding rates range US$70-80 per hour (private lessons) and US$48-60 per hour (group lessons). Windsurfing (US$70 for 2 hours) and sailing (US$80 for 90 minutes) lessons also are offered. Rentals for all three sports can be arranged, too.
Kayaking
Kayaking is a great way to see the interior lagoons of the island, and especially for spotting birds. A fun and challenging option is to hire a golf-cart taxi to drive you and your boat—balanced on the back—to the main inlet where you can put in. From there it’s possible to wend through the lagoons to the other side of the island, then paddle along the shore to the main ferry dock, passing Isla Pájaros along the way. Several shops and hotels rent kayaks (US$8-12/hour), while Andrés Limón (tel. 984/875-2220, kayak_holbox@hotmail.com) is a popular private guide.
Bird-Watching
Holbox has more than 30 species of birds, including herons, white and brown pelicans, double-crested cormorants, roseate spoonbills, and greater flamingos (the brightest pink of the five flamingo species). Most hotels can arrange a standard bird-watching excursion (approximately US$45 pp, 3-4 hours, minimum 4 people), which generally includes taking a motorboat or kayaks through the mangroves to Isla Pájaros and the flamingo nesting grounds. More specialized bird-watchers may want to contact Juan Rico Santana (tel. 984/875-2021)—he leads many of the hotel trips, but he can arrange separate, more focused trips that are tailored to your interests.
Fishing
Holbox is an excellent spot for sportfishing, yet it’s still relatively unknown. A deep-sea fishing excursion costs US$250-450, depending on how long you go out. A coastal fishing tour with a local fisherman, going after smaller and more plentiful catch, lasts 4-5 hours and costs around US$100. Local tour operators, and most hotels, can help you organize either trip.
Holbox also has great fly-fishing, with 100 -plus-pound giant tarpons cruising the coastal waters, and smaller juveniles plying the interior lagoons, along with snook and jack. Holbox Tarpon Club (tel. 984/875-2144, www.holboxtarponclub.com) offers personalized tours, running US$400 per boat (8 hours, lunch included, maximum 2 anglers per boat).
Baseball
Holbox has an amateur baseball team, known simply as Selección Holbox (Team Holbox). The season lasts all summer, and games against visiting teams are held most Sundays at noon at the baseball “stadium” on Avenida Benito Juárez, a few blocks from the pier. It’s a popular outing for island families, who typically bring tostadas and huge bowls of homemade ceviche to go with the cold beer and soda on sale in the stands. Admission is US$1-2; bring a hat as there is little shade.
Head to Isla Holbox for long walks on the beach and plenty of peace and quiet.
© LIZA PRADO
ACCOMMODATIONS
For most travelers, Holbox’s most appealing accommodations are its beachfront bungalows; they vary in style, amenities, and price, but all offer simple rest and relaxation in a peaceful seaside setting. Alternatively, hotels in town offer comfortable rooms at more accessible rates, and you’re still just a short distance from the beach. Be aware that rates may rise during whale shark season (mid-May to mid-September).
Under US$50
Holbox’s best budget choice is Tribu Hostel (Av. Pedro Joaquín Coldwell s/n, tel. 984/875-2507, www.tribuhostel.com, US$9.25-10.50 pp dorm, US$26-30.50 s/d). Set in two-story palapa-roofed buildings with polished wood floors, each room is named after one of the world’s tribes—Maori, Huli, Woodabe, etc.—and is decorated accordingly. Dorms have 3-5 bunks apiece, fans, en suite bathrooms, and private balconies. Sheets and big lockers (BYO lock) are included in the rate. Private rooms are similarly outfitted but smaller. Common areas are first-rate, too: a fully equipped kitchen, an outdoor dining room, a rooftop lounge with lots of hammocks and stellar views, a bar with swings for seats and a flat-screen TV, and even a screening room with a small library of movies. Wi-Fi, laundry, and kayak rentals are also available.
Located on a quiet residential street, Posada Laury (Calle Cardenas near Av. Palomino, tel. 984/875-2133, US$42 s/d with a/c) offers stark rooms with unexpected creature comforts: air-conditioning, cable TV, and minifridge, plus hot water and decent beds, too. It’s a great deal, especially considering it’s just two blocks from the central plaza.
If you’re willing to slather yourself with bug repellent, Ida y Vuelta Camping (Calle Plutarco Elias Calles btwn Róbalo and Chacchi, tel. 984/875-2358, www.holboxhostel.com, US$8 pp hammock, US$8 pp camping, US$9 pp dorm, US$30 s/d bungalow with shared bath, US$35 s/d cabaña, US$55 house) has a good range of options—from hammock and tent sites to fully equipped houses. The most popular choices are the garden bungalows, which have sand floors, screened windows, and shared bathrooms, and the cabañas—wood plank cabins on stilts, each with two basic rooms with private bathrooms. All guests have access to a fully equipped kitchen, colorfully tiled bathrooms with 24/7 hot water, and free Wi-Fi.
US$50-100
Hotel Casa Iguana Holbox (Av. Igualdad s/n, tel. 984/875-2469, www.hotelcasaiguanaholbox.com, US$70-92 s/d garden view, US$121 ocean view) offers simple rooms with painted cement floors and Talavera-tiled bathrooms. Deluxe rooms are bigger and feature handcrafted wood furnishings and private terraces facing the beach; most have air-conditioning, but there’s a discount if you don’t use it. Outdoors, there are plenty of lounge chairs and palapa shades on the beach, and town is just a few minutes’ walk away.
US$100-200
Hotel Villas Flamingos (Av. Igualdad s/n, tel. 984/875-2167, www.villasflamingos.com, US$139-146 s/d with a/c, US$227-263 suite with a/c) is one of the nicest places to stay on the beach. Units are modern with boho flair: conch shell showerheads, coconut lamps, bamboo accents, and gorgeous mosaic tile bathrooms. All rooms have air-conditioning and ocean views (some partial, some dramatically expansive), and most have palapa roofs. There is a well-tended pool just feet from the ocean, as well as a high-end restaurant/bar.
Hotel Mawimbi (Av. Igualdad s/n, tel. 984/875-2003, www.mawimbi.net, US$90-125 s/d with a/c, US$115-145 s/d with a/c and kitchenette, US$165 suite with a/c) offers modern rooms and comfortable bungalows with a touch of boho flair. Guatemalan bedspreads, colorful tiles, and shell accents all lend an artistic touch, while quiet air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi keep you cool and connected. The shady garden has plenty of lounge chairs and hammocks, and is just steps from one of the best-kept stretches of beach. The low-key Italian owners maintain a friendly, welcoming atmosphere and offer recommended island excursions. There also is a good restaurant on-site, El Barquito, where a complimentary continental breakfast is served.
Holbox Dream Hotel (Av. Pedro Joaquín Coldwell s/n, tel. 984/875-2433, www.holboxdream.com, US$95 s/d with a/c, US$125 deluxe s/d with a/c, US$139 studio) is a refreshingly normal alternative to the desertedisle getaways that make up most of Holbox’s accommodations. Standard rooms are comfortable and modern, with air-conditioning, good mattresses, stone basin sinks, and balconies with partial ocean views; deluxe rooms are bigger, with minifridges, security boxes, and better views. There’s free Wi-Fi in all the rooms. The hotel also has a well-maintained stretch of beach and a small pool that’s inviting although squeezed between the reception and the guest rooms—a minor drawback to an otherwise excellent choice.
Zomay Hotel (Av. Pedro Joaquín Coldwell s/n, tel. 984/875-2090, www.zomayholbox.com, US$80 s/d with a/c, US$90-140 s/d with kitchenette, US$160-180 s/d with kitchenette and a/c, US$220 apartment with a/c) has bungalows and apartments, some with kitchenettes or lofts, each featuring homey decor and a small patio or veranda looking onto the large palm-shaded garden or the beachfront. Zomay is about five blocks west of the central plaza and a bit farther to the best swimming and beach areas, but bike rentals are available. There’s Wi-Fi in the reception area, too.
Over US$200
CasaSandra (Calle Igualdad s/n, tel. 984/875-2171, www.casasandra.com, US$250-417 s/d with a/c, US$612 suite) is one of Holbox’s most exclusive resorts, though it still maintains the welcoming feel of a home. The main building looks like a Swiss ski lodge (it houses ocean-view rooms, the library, and a restaurant), but it also has a handful of smaller palapa-roofed buildings, more in style with their island neighbors. Rooms vary from shabby chic to tropical safari in decor and have features like claw-foot tubs and original art. Outside, guests can relax on the well-tended beach or by the large pool. A full breakfast is included in the rate.
Las Nubes de Holbox (Paseo Kuka s/n, tel. 984/875-2300, www.lasnubesdeholbox.com, US$300-450 s/d with a/c) is an upscale resort with palapa-roofed bungalows and modern hotel suites that are undeniably lovely but lacking the boho spirit of the island. Nevertheless, it is a comfortable place, with a waterfront restaurant, an inviting pool, and a well-tended beachfront. Continental breakfast is included in the rate, as are use of bicycles and kayaks.
FOOD
There are only a handful of restaurants on Isla Holbox, so anyone staying more than a day or two could easily sample them all. It wouldn’t even take much effort, as virtually all face the central plaza or are less than a block off it. A quick stroll around the plaza lets you whet your appetite while sizing up the options.
Restaurants
Los Pelones (central plaza, Av. Benito Juárez btwn Avs. Porfirio Díaz and Igualdad, no phone, 6:30pm-11pm daily, US$6-21) is a small 2nd-floor restaurant overlooking the central plaza. It features mostly Italian dishes, including great handmade pasta. Grab a table on the balcony for the best view and sea breeze.
Cosa Nostra (Hotel La Palapa, Av. Morelos at the beach, tel. 984/803-3018, 7:30am-10pm daily, US$8-25) may have a long list of pizzas, but it’s much more than a simple pizza joint. This is first-class Italian cuisine, featuring handmade sausage, perfect pasta, and expertly prepared seafood, including whole lobster and octopus salad. (And, yes, the pizza’s good, too.) Breakfasts are less successful, but dinner is a worthwhile splurge. You’ll find a strong wine list and excellent service here. Beachfront seating has nice views but can be buggy—bring repellent.
La Tortilleria de Holbox (central plaza, tel. 984/875-2443, 7am-4pm daily, US$3-7) is a breakfast favorite in a central location, with great fresh-brewed coffee to go along with omelets, yogurt and fresh fruit, and more—all with friendly service. For lunch, the Spanish tortilla feeds two and is to die for.
Pizzería Edelín (central plaza, Av. Palomino at Av. Porfirio Díaz, tel. 984/875-2024, 11am-midnight daily, US$5-17) manages to stay busy even in the low season, serving decent thin-crust pizza—try the lobster or olive-and-caper ones for a treat—plus a smattering of fish, pasta, and Mexican dishes. The ovens can really heat up the place, so nab a table on the porch for the breeze.
A colorful clapboard house, La Isla del Colibrí (central plaza, Av. Benito Juárez at Av. Porfirio Díaz, no phone, 8am-1pm and 6pm-11pm daily, US$4-9) is a decent breakfast place offering fresh fruit juices and big licuados, egg dishes, and Mexican classics. It’s open for lunch and dinner, too, but there are better places for those meals.
Groceries
Supplies ebb and flow in Isla Holbox, so you might have to go to more than one store to find everything you’re looking for.
Super Monkey’s (Av. Benito Juárez near Calle Escobedo, 6:30am-11pm daily) has canned and packaged food, bug repellent, sunscreen, and toiletries.
The best selection of fruits and vegetables on the island typically is at Frutería La Concepción (Calle Escobedo near Av. Palomino, 7am-6pm daily). You’ll also find eggs, honey, and spices.
While Holbox is making it onto more travelers’ radars, there still is no bank (though there is one ATM) and no post office. Also, note that hours of operation on the island are decidedly flexible—“open all day” usually means “closed for a couple of hours in the middle of the day for lunch.”
Emergency Services
Holbox’s Centro de Salud (Av. Benito Juárez btwn Oceano Atlántico and Adolfo López Mateos, tel. 998/875-2406, 8am-2pm and 4pm-8pm Mon.-Sat., until 6pm Sun.) offers basic health services and occasionally runs out of medicine. For more advanced medical attention, head to Cancún or Mérida; in emergencies, you may be able to charter a small plane.
Farmacia Jessy (Av. Igualdad near Av. Bravo, no phone, 9am-10pm daily) usually has a moderate selection of medications and basic toiletries.
Money
There is no bank on Isla Holbox, but there is one Bancomer ATM on the 2nd floor of the Alcaldía (City Hall, central plaza, Av. Porfirio Díaz s/n); it often runs out of money, though, so plan accordingly.
Though some hotels, restaurants, and tour operators accept credit cards, don’t count on using plastic; be sure to bring enough cash for the length of your stay (plus an extra day or two, in case you decide to extend your visit).
Media and Communications
Sharky’s Cyber (Av. Igualdad near Av. Bravo, 10am-11pm daily, US$1.25/hour) has Skype-ready computers, though it can sometimes be overrun by kids playing video games. Another option is Internet Café Don Antonio (corner of Avs. Porfirio Díaz and Morelos, 9am-11pm daily), which charges US$1.50 per hour.
Laundry
If your hotel doesn’t offer laundry service (many do), a number of local women wash clothes in their homes, charging around US$5 for three kilos (6.6 pounds). Look for signs around town or ask at your hotel for a recommendation.
GETTING THERE
Car, Ferry, Bus, and Taxi
To get to Holbox, you first need to get to the small coastal village of Chiquilá. There are direct buses from Cancún and Mérida. If you’re driving, take old Highway 180 (not the autopista) to El Ideal, about 100 kilometers (62 miles) west of Cancún. Turn north onto Highway 5 and follow that about 140 kilometers (87 miles) to Chiquilá, passing though the town of Kantunilkín. (There are shortcuts from both Mérida and Cancún, but they follow smaller, less-maintained roads.) You’ll have to leave your car in Chiquilá. Several families run small overnight parking operations, charging around US$4 per day; ask about weekly rates.
Ferries operated by 9 Hermanos (tel. 984/875-2010) leave Chiquilá for Isla Holbox (US$6.75, 25 minutes) at 6am, 8am, 10am, and 11am, noon, and 1pm, 2pm, 4pm, 5pm, 7pm, and 9:30pm. Returning boats leave Holbox at 5am, 7am, 9am, 10am, and 11am, noon, and 1pm, 3pm, 4pm, 6pm, and 8pm. Going to Holbox, it’s a good idea to get to the dock a half hour early, as the boat occasionally leaves ahead of schedule. Private boatmen make the trip in either direction for approximately US$30-40 for up to six people; ask at the dock. Note: Private boats are prohibited from ferrying passengers to/from Holbox after dark.
From Chiquilá, second-class buses to Cancún (US$7, 3.5 hours) leave the dock parking area at 5:30am and 7:30am and 1:30pm; all wait for the ferry arriving from Holbox. To Mérida, there’s just one bus at 5:30am (US$12.50, 7 hours).
Taxis also often are available at the dock to take travelers door-to-door to Cancún (US$65-85), Cancún International Airport (US$90), Playa del Carmen (US$100), and Valladolid (US$43); be sure to agree upon a price before you step into the car.
the ferry to Isla Holbox
© LIZA PRADO
If you get stuck in Chiquilá, the Hotel Puerta del Sol (tel. 984/267-1004, US$27 s/d with fan, US$33 s/d with a/c) is your only option, located a short distance back down the main road from the dock. Rooms here are very simple but have TV and private bath. If you can swing it, opt for a room with air-conditioning—they are newer and considerably nicer than the fan rooms. There also is a string of basic restaurants, most with a focus on seafood, facing the dock.
Air
If you’ve got the money and the stomach for itty-bitty planes, AeroSaab (tel. 998/865-4225, www.aerosaab.com) offers a full-day tour to Isla Holbox departing from Cancún, Playa del Carmen, or Cozumel. Using Cessna airplanes, the trip begins with a scenic one-hour flight up the coast to Holbox, followed by a tour of Isla Pájaros and Yalahau Spring, lunch, and a chance to explore the village and beach (US$296-373 pp, minimum 4 people). Overnight trips and/or whale shark excursions also can be arranged.
GETTING AROUND
Holbox is very easy to get around on foot. Even the farthest hotels are no more than a half hour’s walk from town, and it’s very safe day or night. The only time you may really need a lift is when you’re lugging your bags between the pier and your hotel.
Taxi
Golf carts serve as the island’s taxis (some are even painted in yellow-and-black checkers). A ride from the pier into town is US$1.50-2.50 per person or US$3-5 to the hotels farther down the beach. They are almost always parked on the plaza, or your hotel can call one.
Golf Cart
Though you really don’t need a golf cart to get around Holbox, you may enjoy the convenience of one. Rates, though not cheap, are relatively uniform: US$10 per hour, US$60 for 12 hours, and US$68 for 24 hours.
Recommended outfits include Rentadora Glendy (Av. Porfirio Díaz at Av. Morelos, tel. 984/875-2093, 7am-11pm daily) and Rentadora El Brother (Av. Benito Juárez at Av. Igualdad, tel. 998/875-2018, 8am-10pm daily).
Bicycle
Other than walking, the easiest—and most affordable—way of getting around town is by bike. A no-name bike rental shop (Av. Igualdad near Av. Palomino, no phone) rents bikes for US$8.50 per day; weekly rates are negotiable. The small eatery Tortilleria de Holbox (central plaza, tel. 984/875-2443, 7am-4pm daily) also rents bikes.
