All around Isla Cozumel, the Caribbean Sea glitters a hundred shades of blue. Beneath the waves, pristine coral reefs make for spectacular diving and snorkeling, the island’s number-one draw. San Miguel de Cozumel—usually just called Cozumel, since it’s the only city on the island—is where the ferries from Playa del Carmen land. It’s also where cruise ships, as many as 30 per week in the high season, arrive; it’s then that the waterfront promenade becomes a human river, flowing slowly down a channel of jewelry stores, souvenir shops, and open-air restaurants.
© LIZA PRADO
Santa Rosa Wall: Sit back and enjoy the ride at one of Cozumel’s marquee dive sites. A strong current whisks you past a long wall, mottled with stony overhangs and gaping caves, and home to massive sea fans, translucent sponges, and tropical fish of every size and color (page 103).
Palancar: With five sections spread over nearly five kilometers (3 miles), this massive dive site has something for everyone. Snorkelers can check out Palancar Shallows, while divers can explore the winding ravines and natural arches of Palancar Horseshoe. No matter where you go, you’ll enjoy rich coral and vibrant sealife (page 106).
San Gervasio: Smack dab in the middle of the island, Cozumel’s best and biggest Maya ruin is thought to be dedicated to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility; in ancient times, it attracted women from all over the Yucatán seeking her favor (page 106).
Playa Chen Río: Heavy surf makes most of Cozumel’s east side unswimmable, except here, where a rocky arm forms a calm natural pool. Come midweek to have it all to yourself, or on a Sunday to convivir (literally, share life) with local families (page 110).
Parque Punta Sur (Faro Celarain Eco Park): Snorkel the colorful ocean reef, or stay above water on the long curving beaches of this scenic nature reserve. There’s also a small maritime museum, a Maya ruin, and a lighthouse you can climb for a birds-eye view of the gorgeous surroundings (page 121).
Just a few blocks from the promenade, another Cozumel emerges—a small, friendly community where old folks sit at their windows and dogs sleep in the streets. In spring, masses of orange framboyán (poinciana) flowers bloom on shade trees in the plaza, and festivals and religious celebrations are widely attended.
Cozumel’s interior—including an important Maya ruin—and its eastern shore are yet another world, lacking even power lines and telephone cables. Heavy surf makes much of the eastern shore too dangerous for swimming, but you easily can spend a day beachcombing or relaxing on the unmanicured beaches and lunching at small restaurants overlooking the sea.
As Mexico’s third largest island, it shouldn’t be surprising to discover that it’s so multifaceted. But it’s hard not to marvel at how stark the differences are. Come for the diving and snorkeling, but leave time to experience a side of Cozumel you may not have expected.
Cozumel has been inhabited since 300 BC and was one of three major Maya pilgrimage sites in the region (the others were Chichén Itzá and Izamal in Yucatán state). The name is derived from the island’s Maya name, Cuzamil (Land of Swallows). The height of its pre-His-panic occupation was AD 1250-1500, when Putún people (also known as the Chontol or Itzás, the same group who built Chichén Itzá’s most famous structures) dominated the region as seafaring merchants. Capitan Don Juan de Grijalva arrived on the island in 1518 and dubbed it Isla de Santa Cruz, marking the beginning of the brutal dislocation of the native people by Spanish explorers and conquistadors. It eventually was overrun by British and Dutch pirates who used it as a base of operations. By the mid-1800s, however, the island was virtually uninhabited. The henequen, chicle, and coconut-oil booms attracted a new wave of people to the Quintana Roo territory (it didn’t become a state until 1974), and Cozumel slowly rebounded, this time with a mostly Mexican mestizo population.
Cozumel benefitted mightily from the worldwide popularity of Jacques Cousteau’s early underwater films (which were not filmed there, contrary to legend, but inspired others that were) and later, of course, the establishment of Cancún in the 1970s.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
Don’t let the cruise ship hubbub on Avenida Rafael Melgar turn you off from the town altogether. Besides the fact that most of the hotels, dive shops, banks, and other services are here, the town itself has much to offer, including a pleasant central plaza and a great museum. Budget a day or two to rent a car and explore the rest of the island, including the beach clubs, Maya ruins, family-friendly ecoparks, and the wild beaches and deserted coastline of Cozumel’s eastern side.
ORIENTATION
The town of San Miguel de Cozumel (aka “Downtown Cozumel”) is located on the west side of the island. The main passenger ferry lands here, across from the central plaza.
Avenida Benito Juárez is one of the main streets in Downtown Cozumel, beginning at the central plaza, crossing town, and becoming the Carretera Transversal (Cross-Island Highway). The highway passes the turnoff to the San Gervasio ruins before intersecting with the coastal road. The coastal road follows Cozumel’s eastern shore, which is dotted with a few beach clubs and restaurants. Rounding the southern tip, the road heads north along the west shore before becoming Avenida Rafael Melgar and returning to the central plaza. Continuing north, the road passes turnoffs to the airport and a country club before turning to dirt and eventually dead-ending.
PARQUE BENITO JUÁREZ
Cozumel’s central plaza is surprisingly peaceful considering the mass of humanity that disembarks at the ferry pier directly across the street and from cruise ship ports just down the road. Few foreign visitors take time to linger in the park itself, which has wood benches, tree-filled planters, a boxy clock tower, and busts of late Mexican president Benito Juárez and General Andrés Quintana Roo. The city municipal building, occupying most of the plaza’s east side, was beautifully restored in 2005, with an airy commercial center on the ground floor and civic offices above. And though the central plaza is smack in the middle of Cozumel’s tourist corridor, it is still a place local families come to stroll about, especially weekends, when live bands play in the central gazebo, and balloon and cotton candy vendors do a brisk trade.
MUSEO DE LA ISLA DE COZUMEL
The town’s small but excellent museum, Museo de la Isla de Cozumel (Av. Rafael Melgar at Calle 6, tel. 987/872-1434, 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-4pm Sun., US$3, free child 8 and under), is on the waterfront in what was once a turn-of-the-20th-century hotel. Well-composed exhibits in English and Spanish describe the island’s wildlife, coral reefs, and the fascinating, sometimes tortured, history of human presence here, from the Maya pilgrims who came to worship the fertility goddess to present-day survivors of devastating hurricanes. The museum also has a small bookstore and a library. For a good photo-op head to the terrace, which has a great view of the main drag, ferry pier, and—on a clear day—Playa del Carmen.
COZUMEL PEARL FARM
Located on a remote private island on Cozumel’s northern shore, the Cozumel Pearl Farm (cell. tel. 984/114-9604, www.cozumel-pearlfarm.com, US$110 pp) is a new and fun place to spend a day and learn about these unique nature-made jewels. The six-hour trip includes touring the farm’s facilities to learn how and why pearls form, and how they are farmed and harvested, then snorkeling around the underwater installations. A beach barbecue is included, plus time for relaxing in hammocks and “power snorkeling”—snorkeling while being tugged by a boat. Service is friendly and professional, and transportation is included.
DISCOVER MEXICO PARK
Discover Mexico Park (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 5.5, 8am-4pm Mon.-Sat., US$20 adult, US$10 child) boasts hundreds of enthusiastic reviews from visitors, but we’re hard pressed to understand the appeal. Exhibits include a video on Mexican history, scale-models of various iconic Mexican structures (the cathedral in Mexico City, the pyramid at Chichén Itzá, etc.), a gallery of Mexican folk art, and, of course, plenty of opportunities for eating, drinking, and shopping. The center’s tour guides are peppy and well informed, and Mexican art never fails to impress, but the overall experience is too gimmicky to be truly satisfying.
CORAL REEFS
Cozumel’s coral reef—and the world-class diving and snorkeling it provides—is the main reason people come to the island. The reef was designated a national marine reserve more than two decades ago, and the waters have thrived under the park’s rigorous protection and clean-up programs. In 2005, Hurricane Wilma took a major toll on the reef, snapping off coral and sponges with its powerful surge and leaving other sections smothered under a thick layer of sand and debris. But hurricanes are nothing new to Cozumel or its coral, and reports of vast damage to the reef were greatly exaggerated. Cozumel’s underwater treasure remains very much alive, supporting a plethora of creatures, its seascapes as stunning as ever. Dozens of dive and snorkeling sites encircle the island, and the 1,000-meter-deep (3,281-foot) channel between Cozumel and the mainland still provides spectacular drift and wall dives. Here is a list of some of the most popular dives, though by no means all the worthwhile ones.
Airplane Wreck
A 40-passenger Convair airliner lies on Cozumel’s seabed, about 65 meters (213 feet) from the shore near El Cid hotel. Sunk in 1977 for the Mexican movie production of Survive II, the plane has been broken into pieces and strewn about the site by years of storms. The site itself is relatively flat, though with parrot fish, damselfish, and a host of sea fans and small coral heads, there’s plenty to see. With depth ranges of 3-15 meters (10-49 feet), this is a good site for snorkelers.
Paraíso
Just south of the international pier, and about 200 meters (656 feet) from shore, lies Paraíso, an impressive three-lane coral ridge. Medium-size coral—mostly brain and star—attract sergeant majors, angelfish, grunts, squirrel fish, and snappers. This site also is popular for night dives because of its proximity to hotels, which means less time on the boat. Depth ranges 5-13 meters (16-43 feet). Snorkeling is decent near the shore, but be very careful of boat traffic.
Dzul-Há (aka The Money Bar)
Located off the old coastal road (Km. 6.5), Dzul-Há is one of the best spots for DIY snorkeling, with small coral heads and sea fans that support a colorful array of fish like blue tangs, parrot fish, and queen angels. Steps lead into the ocean, where depths range 3-10 meters (10-33 feet). You can rent snorkel gear on-site for US$14, including the marine park fee (US$2).
Tormentos
At this site divers can see about 60 coral heads, each decorated with an assortment of sea fans, brain and whip corals, and sponges. Invertebrates like to hide out in the host of crevices—look for flamingo tongue shells, arrow crabs, and black crinoids. Lobster like the scene, too—keep your eyes peeled for them, especially at the north end of the site. Depth ranges 5-15 meters (16-49 feet). The site is popular with photographers.
Cozumel’s central plaza is a nice place to take a stroll, day or night.
Yucab
A perfect drift dive, Yucab has archways, overhangs, and large coral heads—some as tall as three meters (10 feet)—that are alive with an incredible array of creatures: Lobsters, octopus, scorpionfish, banded coral shrimp, and butterfly fish can almost always be found here. Videographers typically have a field day. Depth ranges 5-15 meters (16 -49 feet).
Punta Tunich
Punta Tunich usually has a 1.5-knot current, which makes it an excellent drift dive. The site itself has a white-sand bottom with a gentle downward slope that ends in a drop-off. Along the way, the reef is dotted with finger coral and elephant ear sponges. Divers regularly encounter eagle rays, barracuda, sea horses, bar jacks, and parrot fish. The depth ranges 5-18 meters (16-59 feet).
Santa Rosa Wall
With a sensational drop-off that begins at 22 meters (72 feet), this spectacular site is known for its tunnels, caves, and stony overhangs. Teeming with sealife, it’s home to translucent sponges, mammoth sea fans, file clams, horse-eyed jacks, fairy basslets, gray angelfish, and black groupers. Strong currents make this a good drift dive, especially for experienced divers. Depth ranges 5-27 meters (16-89 feet).
Paso del Cedral
A strip reef lined with small corals like disk and cactus, this site attracts large schools of fish like blue-striped grunts and snapper—perfect for dramatic photographs. Southern stingrays often are seen gliding over the sandy areas just inside the reef. Depths range 10-20 meters (33-66 feet).
This spectacular five-kilometer-long (3.1-mile) dive spot is actually made up of five different sites—Shallows, Garden, Horseshoe, Caves, and Bricks. It is known for its series of enormous coral buttresses. Some drop off dramatically into winding ravines, deep canyons, and passageways; others have become archways and tunnels with formations 15 meters (49 feet) tall. The most popular site here is Palancar Horseshoe, which is made up of a horseshoe-shaped series of coral heads at the top of a drop-off. All the sites, however, are teeming with reef life. Palancar ranges in depth 5-40 meters (16-131 feet).
Colombia
An enormous coral buttress, Colombia boasts tall coral pillars separated by passageways, channels, and ravines. Divers enjoy drifting past huge sponges, anemones, and swaying sea fans. Larger creatures—sea turtles, groupers, nurse sharks, and southern stingrays—are commonly seen here. The site is recommended for experienced divers. Depths range 5-40 meters (16-131 feet).
Maracaibo
At the island’s southern tip, Maracaibo is a deep buttress reef interspersed with tunnels, caves, and vertical walls. It is known for its immense coral formations as well as for the possibility of spotting large animals—sharks (black tip and nurse) as well as turtles and eagle rays. A deep-drift dive, this site is recommended for advanced divers only. Depths range 30-40 meters (98-131 feet).
ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONES
Isla Cozumel played a deeply significant role in the Maya world as an important port of trade and, more importantly, as one of three major destinations of religious pilgrimages (the others were Izamal and Chichén Itzá, both in Yucatán state). The island’s primary site—known as San Gervasio today—was dedicated to Ixchel, the Maya goddess of fertility as well as of the moon, childbirth, medicine, and weaving. Archaeologists believe that every Maya woman was expected, at least once in her lifetime, to journey to Cozumel to make offerings to Ixchel for fertility—her own, and that of her family’s fields. Cozumel’s draw was powerful, as inscriptions there refer to places and events hundreds of miles away.
Over 30 archaeological sites have been discovered on the island, though only four are easily accessible, and only the largest—San Gervasio—can properly be called a tourist attraction. San Gervasio is certainly not as glorious as ruins found on the mainland, but it’s worth a visit all the same.
San Gervasio
The area around San Gervasio (Cross-Island Hwy. Km. 7.5, www.cozumelparks.org.mx, 8am-4pm daily, US$8) was populated as early as AD 200 and remained so after the general Maya collapse (AD 800-900) and well into the Spanish conquest. In fact, archaeologists excavating the ruins found a crypt containing 50 skeletons along with numerous Spanish beads; the bodies are thought to be those of 16th-century Maya who died from diseases brought by the conquistadors.
Today’s visitors will find a modest ruin, whose small square buildings with short doors are typical of those found elsewhere on the island. This style, known as oratorio, almost certainly developed in response to climatic imperatives: Anything built here needed to withstand the hurricanes that have pummeled Cozumel for millennia.
San Gervasio has three building groups that are accessible to the public—Las Manitas, Plaza Central, and Murciélagos; all are connected by trails that follow the same ancient causeways used by the city’s original inhabitants. A fourth building group—El Ramonal—is not yet open to the public.
Entering the site, you’ll come first to the building group named after the structure Las Manitas (Little Hands), for the red handprints still visible on one of its walls. This structure is thought to have been the home of one of San Gervasio’s kings, Ah Huneb Itza, and the inner temple was likely a personal sanctuary. Just east of the Las Manitas building is Chi Chan Nah; consisting of two rooms, it is the smallest structure in San Gervasio. The exact purpose of this building is unknown, though it is theorized that it was used for rituals.
San Gervasio is Cozumel’s most accessible Maya ruin.
© H.W. PRADO
Bearing left, the trail leads to the Plaza Central, a large courtyard surrounded by nine low structures in various states of decay; it is believed that the structures were made taller with wood extensions. The Plaza Central served as the seat of power in San Gervasio’s latest era, from AD 1200 onward. At the northwest side of the Plaza Central is the somewhat precarious-looking El Arco (The Arch), which served as an entrance to this section of the city.
At 0.5 kilometer (0.3 mile) from the Plaza Central is the Murciélagos (Bats) building group, containing the site’s largest and most important structure: Ka’na Nah (Tall House). Also dating to San Gervasio’s later era, this was the temple of the goddess Ixchel, and in its heyday would have been covered in stucco and painted red, blue, green, and black.
Finally, on the northeastern edge of San Gervasio rests Nohoch Nah (Big House), a boxy but serene temple. With an interior altar, the temple might have been used by religious pilgrims to make an offering upon entering or leaving San Gervasio. It was originally covered in stucco and painted a multitude of colors.
Guides can be hired at the visitors center for a fixed rate: US$20 for a one-hour tour in Spanish, English, French, or German. Prices are per group, which can include up to four people. Tips are customary and are not included in the price.
El Cedral
El Cedral is the “other town” on Cozumel, a sleepy village south of San Miguel that’s home to a small historic church and modest Maya structure of the same name. It’s got a pleasant central plaza, and tour operators, including horseback riding guides, often bring visitors here to visit the church and temple, and to peruse the souvenir stands normally set up here. Once a year, El Cedral hosts one of Cozumel’s largest festivals, a 10-day blowout celebration of the Catholic holy cross.
Although overshadowed by San Miguel today, El Cedral is actually the older settlement. It was here that a group of 18 families of indigenous Christian converts fled in 1847 to escape persecution by fellow Maya during the War of the Castes. They came bearing a small wooden cross known as Santa Cruz de Sabán (Holy Cross of Sabán) and founded their church and village alongside a Maya temple that they discovered just inland from their landing site. The group was led by Casimiro Cárdenas, whose descendants still serve a s caretakers, or mayordomos, of the temple and church; there’s a statue of Don Casimiro in the central plaza.
El Cedral is famous for its Fiesta de la Santa Cruz (Festival of the Holy Cross), which begins in late April and culminates on May 3. The celebration includes food, music, dance, performances, rodeo, and fireworks aplenty, and even some traditions of distant Maya origin. The party is open to everyone, including tourists, and makes for a fun and fascinating outing if your visit happens to coincide with it.
A well-marked turnoff just south of Playa San Francisco leads 5 kilometers (3.1 miles) to the village. El Cedral’s Maya ruin (8am-5pm daily, free) is small and underwhelming, though it still bears a few traces of the original paint and stucco. The church is directly adjacent and contains the original wooden cross borne by El Cedral’s founders.
El Caracol
Located inside Parque Punta Sur (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 27, tel. 987/872-0914, http://cozumelparks.gob.mx, 9am-5pm daily, US$10 adult, US$5 child over 8), El Caracol is a small, conch-shaped structure that dates to AD 1200. It’s believed to have been a lighthouse where Maya used smoke and flames to lead boats to safety. Small openings at the top of the structure also acted as whistles to alert Maya to approaching tropical storms and hurricanes. Admission to the reserve includes access to this small site.
Castillo Real
Castillo Real is a partially excavated site with a temple, two chambers, and a lookout tower. It is believed to have been a Maya watchtower to protect against approaching enemies. It’s located on the remote northeastern corner of the island, along the sand road leading to Punta Molas. The road is quite treacherous, such that even ATVs and motorcycles can have trouble making it. Ask at the tourist office for the latest before making any plans to head up there.
Cozumel isn’t famous for its beaches, but it is not without a few beautiful stretches of sand. The best beaches are on the protected southwestern coast, with soft white sand and calm azure waters. The best stretches are occupied by large beach clubs, which have conveniences like lounge chairs, umbrellas, restrooms, restaurants, and water sports; a few even have swimming pools. Most beach clubs charge either a cover or a minimum consumption, but neither is exorbitant. The clubs cater to cruise shippers and range from peaceful and low-key to boisterous and loud. Independent travelers are perfectly welcome too, of course.
Beaches on Cozumel’s east side are wild and picturesque, with virtually no development beyond a few small restaurants. The surf can be fierce here, though a few sheltered areas have good swimming and are popular with locals. The municipal government has been steadily improving the road on the east side, including adding signs, stairways, and parking, but it remains a far different experience than the west-side beach clubs.
Isla de la Pasión
One of Cozumel’s loveliest beaches is Isla de la Pasión (no phone, www.isla-pasion.com, US$65 adult, US$40 child), a privately owned island and beach club just off Cozumel’s north shore. Although aimed squarely at cruise ship passengers, anyone can sign up for a package tour, which includes a buffet, open bar, and free beach activities. The beach is gorgeous—one of Corona’s commercials was filmed here—and the island is covered, oddly, with wispy pine trees. (Scientists believe their seeds were washed or blown from the Atlantic coast of the United States.) The price is a bit steep, but the main bummer is you only get four hours at the beach.
It’s possible, though not easy, to visit Isla de la Pasión on your own; the beach itself is public, after all, and you can stay as long as you like. From the northern end of Avenida Rafael Melgar, a dirt road continues 5 kilometers (3.1 miles) past a water treatment plant to the port at Bahia Ciega. (The road isn’t bad, but drive carefully, as your vehicle’s insurance is probably void here.) At the port, ask around for a fisherman to take you across (around US$10, 20 minutes). Be sure to arrange a time for him to return, and cross your fingers he’s got a good memory; otherwise, you’ll be left begging a ride with a tour group. Bring food, water, and an umbrella—you won’t be allowed to use the beach club facilities, but there’s plenty of beach to lay out a towel. If you do book a tour, you can save US$20 per person by getting to the port yourself.
SOUTHWESTERN COZUMEL
The majority of beach clubs are clustered on Playa San Francisco, a three-kilometer (1.9-mile) stretch of white-sand beach that begins just south of the Aura Cozumel all-inclusive resort. Another beach, Playa Palancar, is farther south, near the tip of the island, and has a beach club of the same name.
Paradise Beach
Paradise Beach (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 14.5, tel. 987/872-6177, www.paradise-beach-cozumel.com, 9am-sunset daily, US$10 minimum consumption) has a gorgeous pool and a spacious picture-perfect beach, dotted with palm trees. Oddly, they charge US$2 for beach chairs and US$12 for use of the water sports gear, like kayaks, trampoline floats, paddleboards, and snorkel gear. Nevertheless, it’s a lovely and not-too-raucous place to spend a day at the beach.
Playa Mia
Playa Mia (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 14.25, 987/564-0960, www.playamia.com, 9am-6pm daily, US$40 with open bar, US$52 with open bar, buffet, towel, and snorkel gear) is big, busy, and energetic without being crass or obnoxious, like other clubs. The beach is decent, though often very crowded, and there’s an excellent beach-side pool. The restaurant-buffet area is cool and pleasant, thanks to a high-peaked tent à la the Denver airport. And there’s certainly no shortage of activities: volleyball, table tennis, a kids’ play structure, massage, snorkeling, parasailing, catamaran rides, water trampoline, even a huge inflatable “iceberg,” and more.
Mr. Sancho’s
All-inclusives can make life easy, even when you’re just going to the beach. Mr. Sancho’s (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 15, 987/871-9174, www.mrsanchos.com, 9am-6pm daily, US$50 adult, US$45 teen, US$35 child) has a good Mexican restaurant, fairly mellow ambience, and plenty of extras, from snorkeling to massage. The beach is a bit narrow, meaning the lounge chairs are squeezed pretty tight, but it’s a lovely spot all the same, and a great option for a no-brainer beach day.
Playa Palancar
With a calm atmosphere to match the calm turquoise waters, Playa Palancar (Km. 19.5, no phone, 8am-5pm daily, no cover or minimum consumption) is just the place to relax in a hammock under a palm tree or dig into a long book while digging your toes into the thick white sand. Playa Palancar has gotten busier over the years, now with music and even parasailing, but it’s still the mellowest of Cozumel’s main beach clubs. And there happens to be great diving and snorkeling at nearby Palancar and Columbia reefs; an on-site dive shop offers fun dives (US$65/90 one/two tanks) and guided snorkeling trips (US$35-45, 60-90 minutes), with daily departures at 9am, noon, and 2pm. Snorkel gear can be rented separately (US$10), but there’s not much to see close to shore. A palapa-roofed restaurant serves classic Mexican seafood and a wide range of drinks (US$5-16). The club is 750 meters (0.5 mile) off the main road.
SOUTHEASTERN COZUMEL
On the east side of the island, you’ll find a wild and windswept coastline dotted with beaches facing the open ocean. The surf here can be quite rough, and only a few beaches are safe for swimming.
Parque Punta Sur (Faro Celarain Eco Park)
As the name suggests, Punta Sur covers Cozumel’s southern point, but the entrance is on the east side and the ambience and appeal is certainly akin to that of the eastern beaches. Officially called Faro Celarain Eco Park, Parque Punta Sur (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 27, tel. 987/872-0914, http://cozumelparks.gob.mx, 9am-5pm daily, US$10 adult, US$5 child over 8) is an important natural reserve that happens to have a fine beach and outstanding snorkeling. Because it faces south, the surf tends to be light. There’s a small eatery, plus restrooms, a changing area, and a kiosk renting snorkel gear.
Playa Box (Playa Rasta)
Playa Box (pronounced Boash, Yucatec Maya for head) is better known as Playa Rasta for the two Jamaica-themed bars that occupy it. It’s just past Punta Sur, where the road turns north along Cozumel’s eastern shore. It’s a rocky stretch of coastline with only a few sandy inlets and the two restaurants blasting reggae at each other. It’s not really the best place to spend the day—unless you like rambling on rocks and have a serious craving for jerk chicken.
El Mirador
Spanish for The Lookout, this is the best place to appreciate Isla Cozumel’s dramatic ironshore formations, including a natural arch and exposed huge bulges of the black jagged stone. Ironshore is formed when waves, wind, and especially microscopic organisms erode the ancient limestone cap that underlies much of the island. Be very careful walking on the iron-shore; flip-flops are not recommended considering how sharp and slippery it can be.
Playa Bonita and Punta Chiqueros
Playa Bonita is another picturesque curve of sand with plenty of room to lay out a towel and soak in the sun. Heavy surf usually makes swimming here inadvisable, but it’s definitely dramatic. The northern end of the beach is Punta Chiqueros, where a small beach restaurant (no phone, 10am-5pm daily) serves hamburgers, fresh fish, and other standards at decent prices.
Playa San Martín
A wooden stairway leads from the road down to the beach at this long, scenic, windswept beach. There are a handful of permanent palapa umbrellas near the stairway that are popular with couples and families, but otherwise you’re likely to have the beach virtually to yourself.
Playa Chen Río
The best place to swim on the east side of the island is Playa Chen Río (1 kilometer/0.6 mile south of Coconuts Bar), where a rocky spit blocks the waves, forming a huge natural pool, and lifeguards are on duty on weekends. Quiet during the week, it’s lively and bustling most Sundays, when local families turn out in force. Restaurant and Bar Chen Río (no phone, 11am-6pm daily, US$12-26) is located here, but the prices are quite high, so it’s not uncommon to see families with coolers and baskets and even small grills.
Chumul (Playa Tortugas)
About six kilometers (3.7 miles) south of the Carretera Transversal intersection is Chumul, also known as Playa Tortugas, a broad beautiful beach on the north side of the Ventanas al Mar hotel. The scenic windswept beach is good for surfing—and has nesting turtles May-November—but it is often too rough for swimming or snorkeling. Still, it makes a good place to watch the wild and crashing waves anytime.
A naturally protected pool makes Playa Chen Río the best swimming and family beach on Isla Cozumel’s east side.
© LIZA PRADO
A few steps away is Coconuts Bar and Grill (no phone, 10am-sunset daily, US$6-14). Set on a dramatic palm-studded bluff—the only piece of elevated land on the island, in fact—the tables are arranged for diners to enjoy the fabulous views of the beach below and the Caribbean beyond. Classic beach fare is served—ceviche, tacos, nachos—and plenty of cold beer. There’s rum punch and live music daily between 2pm and 3pm.
Punta Morena
This scenic and little-used stretch of beach has a small restaurant with restrooms. Like elsewhere on the eastern shore, swimming here can be hazardous because of heavy surf and rocky outcrops, but it’s still a nice place to relax or search for shells on the beach.
Mezcalito’s and Señor Iguanas
These two low-key restaurants—Mezcalito’s (no phone, www.mezcalitos.com, 9am-sunset daily) and Señor Iguanas (no phone, 8am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-6pm Sun.)—are located side-by-side, right where the Carretera Transversal hits the coast. Longtime Cozumel institutions, they have similar menus (ceviche, fried fish, hamburgers, US$7-15), drinks (beer, margaritas, and tequila shots, US$2.50-5), and services (beachside chairs, hammocks, and palapas, free if you buy something from the restaurant). Boogie boards also are available for rent at Señor Iguanas (US$5 for 2 hours)—a lot of fun if you can handle the rough surf.
NORTHEASTERN COZUMEL
Cozumel’s northeastern shoulder is its long lost coast, the wildest and least-visited part of the island. The 25-kilometer (15.5-mile) stretch from the Carretera Transversal north to Punta Molas includes coastal dunes, scrub forest, and deserted beaches, plus the ancient Maya site of Castillo Real at around the 22-kilometer (14-mile) mark. This untended coast also is the final resting spot of a shockingly large amount of trash and jetsam, an ugly reminder of civilization in the one place on the island it ought to be easy to forget.
Visiting in the summer or fall, you can sometimes see sea turtle hatchlings emerging from their nests.
© LIZA PRADO
All eight of the world’s sea turtle species are endangered, thanks to a combination of antiquated fishing practices, habitat destruction, and a taste for turtle products. Four turtle species—hawksbill, Kemp’s ridley, green, and loggerhead—nest on the shores of the Yucatán Peninsula, and until recently, were a common supplement to the regional diet. Turtles make easy prey, especially females clambering on shore to lay eggs. They are killed for their meat, fat, and eggs, which are eaten or saved for medicinal purposes, as well as for their shells, which are used to make jewelry, combs, and other crafts.
Various environmental organizations collaborate with the Mexican government to protect sea turtles and their habitats; they maintain strict surveillance of known nesting beaches to stop poaching and have developed breeding programs, too. This, in combination with laws that prohibit the capture and trade of sea turtles or their products, has tremendously increased awareness about their protection.
On Isla Cozumel, travelers can volunteer to monitor nests and to release hatchlings into the sea. Nesting season runs May-September, and during that period volunteers join biologists on nighttime walks of Cozumel’s beaches, locating and marking new nests, and moving vulnerable eggs to protected hatcheries. From July to November, volunteers release hatchings, typically at sundown, by encouraging the tiny turtles to move toward the water (without touching them) and scaring off birds in search of an easy meal.
Dirección Municipal de Ecología y Medio Ambiente (Calle 11 at Av. 65, tel. 987/872-5795) monitors Cozumel’s sea turtles and manages volunteer opportunities. It maintains a visitors center (9:30am-2pm and 3:30pm-5:30pm daily May-Nov. only) in a small trailer, usually parked on the roadside near Playa San Martín on the eastern side of the island. Inside are a handful of aquariums, Plexiglas-enclosed nests, and more; stop by for information on upcoming beach walks and hatchling releases, or just to learn more about these endangered creatures. Donations are appreciated. Spanish is useful but not required.
Similar volunteer opportunities also are available in Akumal at the Centro Ecológico Akumal (CEA, tel. 984/875-9095, www.ceakumal.org) as well as on Isla Mujeres at Tortugranja (Carr. Sac Bajo 5, tel. 998/888-0507).
The road itself is a challenge—four-wheel drive is essential to avoid becoming mired in deep sand—and hurricanes and other storms can render it impassable. The area also is at the center of a bitter, on-again off-again land dispute and is occasionally closed without warning.
If you do go, be aware that there are no facilities whatsoever, or any other people most of the time. If you plan to camp, take plenty of water and food, a flashlight, extra batteries, bug repellent, and a mosquito net. Remember, too, that most car insurance policies (including all policies sold by rental agencies on the island, regardless of the vehicle) specifically exclude this and other dirt roads from coverage.
NIGHTLIFE
Most of the partying on Cozumel happens during daylight hours, when cruise ships disgorge thousands of tourists eager to stretch their legs and see some new faces. Beach clubs can get raucous, and many bars in town are open before lunch. Still, there are enough locals, expats, and overnight visitors to support a growing cadre of lounges and nightclubs. Most places don’t charge a cover; if they do, it’s on select nights, like when there’s a live band.
Nightclubs
Tiki Tok (Av. Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 987/869-8119, www.tikitokcozumel.com, 9am-2am Mon.-Wed., 10am-4am Thurs.-Sun., no cover) sports a hodgepodge of beach-isle decor, from Polynesian lamps to Jamaican carved masks and figures. The plastic tables and chairs are a killjoy, but the upstairs beach patio, complete with sandy floor and nice sea views, is a nice touch. A live salsa band gets the crowd moving Friday and Saturday nights, starting at around 10:30pm.
El Zócalo Cantina (Av. Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 987/869-1213, 7pm-4am Wed.-Sun.) is an eclectic 2nd-floor cantina with long high tables, music and dancing most nights (live salsa 11pm-2am Fri.-Sat.), and frequent special events, from major sports games projected on a huge screen to surprise happy hours where everyone drinks for free.
Love Cafe Cozumel (Av. Rafael Melgar at Blvd. Aeropuerto, tel. 987/107-1252, 10am-midnight daily) is a large open-air palapa with wood floors and killer views, especially at sunset. It’s best known as a place to enjoy live reggae; at the time of research, a hot local band was packing the place Wednesday-Sunday, with a DJ most other nights. Fridays are all-you-can-drink for US$8.
Dubai Cozumel (Av. Rafael Melgar at Calle 11, tel. 987/119-9691, 10pm-5am Thurs.-Sun.) is a traditional nightclub playing a variety of music, from techno to Mexican ballads, with breaks in between for karaoke.
Bars and Lounges
El Diablito (Calle 3 Sur btwn Avs. 5 and 10, tel. 987/869-7947, 6pm-2am daily except Wed.) is a fun, trendy bar that shares a building with New Especias Italian restaurant. The bar is on the bottom floor, with red and black decor befitting its name (Spanish for Little Devil). The stairway leading to the restaurant is painted with puffy clouds, and the bar food sent down, like paninis and fritattas, is indeed heavenly. Out front are tables and a mural featuring Mick Jagger on a chopper.
Wet Wendy’s Margarita Bar (Av. 5 Norte btwn Av. Benito Juárez and Calle 2, tel. 987/872-4970, 10am-11pm Mon.-Thurs., 10am-midnight Fri.-Sat.) is your classic expat island bar, with usual features like Monday Night Football, giant bacon burgers, and a jocular atmosphere. But it’s famous for its huge handcrafted margaritas: potent creations that look more like sundaes than cocktails and range from mango and strawberry to avocado and cucumber-jalapeño.
1.5 Tequila Lounge (Av. Rafael Melgar at Calle 11, tel. 987/872-1537, 9pm-5am Thurs.-Sat.) is a modern lounge bar overlooking the ocean. It has low couches and chairs, outdoor decks, and house music playing in the background. Specialty shooters are the way to go, though the premium martinis pack a punch. Ladies night is on Thursday.
The world’s smallest Hard Rock Café (Av. Rafael Melgar near Av. Benito Juárez, tel. 987/872-5271, www.hardrock.com, 10am-1am daily) has ocean views during the day and live music starting at 10pm Friday and Saturday. The food is unremarkable—stick to drinks—and if you’re still collecting them, T-shirts are sold at the boutique up front.
For a spring break atmosphere all day (and all year) long, head to the Punta Langosta shopping center, where Carlos ’n Charlie’s (Av. Rafael Melgar at Calle 9, tel. 987/869-1647, www.carlosandcharlies.com/cozumel, 10am-1:30am Mon.-Fri., 11am-1:30am Sat., 5pm-1:30am Sun.) and Señor Frog’s (Av. Rafael Melgar at Calle 9, tel. 987/869-1658, www.senorfrogs.com, 10am-1am Mon.-Fri., 10am-4am Sat.) make driving beats, drink specials, and dancing on tables the norm.
THE ARTS
Cultural and Music Performances
Every Sunday evening, the city hosts an open-air concert in the central plaza. Locals and expats come out to enjoy the show—put on a clean T-shirt and your nicest flip-flops, and you’ll fit right in. Concerts typically last two hours, beginning at 7pm in the summer, 8pm in the winter. Simple food stands selling homemade flan, churros, and other local goodies set up around the park these nights, too.
Casa de la Cultura Ixchel de Cozumel (Av. 50 btwn Av. Benito Juárez and Calle 2 Norte, tel. 987/872-1471, www.casadelaculturaixchel.blogspot.com, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) hosts free concerts, movies, and art exhibits year-round. If you’ll be on the island for an extended (or permanent) stay, a variety of classes—dance, art, music, drama, creative writing—also are offered, with a wide selection for children.
Cinema
You can catch relatively recent releases at Cinépolis (Av. Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 15 and 17, tel. 987/869-0799, www.cinepolis.com.mx, US$5.25 adult, US$4.25 child, US$3.25 before 3pm and all day Wed.), which is located in the Chedraui shopping center.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
Carnaval
Cozumel is one of the few places in Mexico where Carnaval is celebrated with vigor. Held in February, the one-night celebration centers around a parade of floats and dance troupes, all decked out in colorful dress, masks, and glitter. Entire families come to participate and watch. Spectators dance and cheer in the streets as the floats go by, and many join the moving dance party that follows the floats with the largest speakers. Eventually the parade ends up in the center of town, where more music, dancing, and partying continue late into the night.
Festival de El Cedral
Residents of the village of El Cedral celebrate their namesake festival beginning in late April and culminating on May 3, the Day of the Holy Cross. Traditionally, the festival entails daily prayer sessions and ends with a dance called the Baile de las Cabezas de Cochino (Dance of the Pigs’ Heads). The festival, started by a survivor of the Caste War to honor the power of the cross, has morphed over the years into a somewhat more secular affair, with rodeos, dancing, music, and general revelry.
Every May, Cozumel hosts a popular sportfishing tournament known affectionately as the Mexican Boat Rodeo. Anglers from all over Mexico participate—including nearly 200 boats—and international anglers are welcome as long as they register their boats in Mexico. The tournament is timed to coincide with the arrival of big game to Cozumel’s waters; tuna, dorado, marlin, and sailfish are often among the fish caught.
Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel
You’d be forgiven for not knowing that the main town on Cozumel is officially called San Miguel. Hardly anyone, local or tourist, calls it that, preferring just Cozumel instead. One story, among many, is that the city got its name when construction workers unearthed a centuries-old statue of the winged saint on September 29, the very day Saint Michael the Archangel is traditionally celebrated. San Miguel was designated the town’s patron saint, and every year September 29 is marked with a citywide celebration, including special masses and religious processions, a rodeo, food stands, music, and general revelry, mostly in and around the central square and San Miguel church.
Ironman Cozumel
Ironman Cozumel (www.ironmancozumel.com) is the only qualifying event in the Ironman series to be held in Mexico, featuring a course that’s as beautiful as it is grueling. The swim (3.8 kilometers/2.4 miles) is certainly the most distinctly cozumeleño part, starting and ending at Chankanaab National Park, with gorgeous underwater vistas, and scuba divers and sea creatures observing from below. The bike ride (180 kilometers/112 miles) entails three laps around the island, with lovely sea views but crosswinds strong enough to topple unwitting racers. The run is oddly uninspired, three laps between downtown and the airport, although the sunsets there are spectacular (and you’ve got until midnight to finish). Ironman Cozumel is usually held in late November and attracts around 2,500 triathletes from around the world.
Shopping in Cozumel is aimed straight at cruise ship passengers—and it’s no wonder, since they tend to spend a lot of money quickly. Avenida Rafael Melgar is where most of the action is, with a succession of marble-floored shops blasting air-conditioning to entice sweaty passersby in for a refreshing look around. For better prices and more variety, head inland a block or two.
AVENIDA MELGAR
Populated with a mix of high-end jewelry shops and souvenir chain stores, Avenida Melgar has the highest prices in town for items that, on the whole, can be found back home. None of the shops are open to bargaining—at least when there is a cruise ship in port—so if you’re looking for a deal, head inland a couple of blocks. In fact, unless you find something you absolutely can’t live without, you’re uniformly better off shopping elsewhere on the island.
The one exception to this general rule is Los Cinco Soles (Av. Rafael Melgar at Calle 8, tel. 987/872-9004, www.loscincosoles.com, 9am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.). A labyrinth of rooms at the northern end of Avenida Melgar, it’s filled with high-end Mexican folk art from every state in the country: pre-Columbian replicas, barro negro pottery, colorful rebosos (shawls), hand-carved furniture, silver jewelry, handmade wood toys, alabaster sculptures, wool rugs, and more. The prices are higher than others in town but it’s reflected in the quality. It’s definitely worth a stop, if even just to admire the artisanship. There’s a smaller satellite shop at the Punta Langosta mall, too (Av. Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 7 and 11, no phone, 9am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.).
Cozumel has shops for all budgets.
© LIZA PRADO
CENTRAL PLAZA AND BEYOND
Though pricey, Pro Dive Cozumel (Calle Rosado Salas at Av. 5, tel. 987/872-4123, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 1pm-9pm Sun.) has a great selection of snorkel and dive equipment—perfect if you’ve forgotten your mask or lost a fin.
If you’re looking for beachwear and gear, check out Puro Mar Surf-Kite-Bikini (Av. 5 Sur at Calle 3, tel. 987/872-4483, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat.). A small shop, it’s jam-packed with everything from bikinis and swim trunks to kiting and surfing gear.
Casa Bella (Calle 3 btwn Avs. 5 and 10, no phone, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) sells beautiful household items created by artisans from around the country. Items include pewter trays, talavera pottery, and whimsically painted mirrors.
Located on a quiet residential street, Galeria Azul (Av. 15 btwn Calles 8 and 10 Norte, tel. 987/869-0963, www.cozumelglassart.com, 11am-7pm Mon.-Fri.) sells works of art by locals, including expat owner Greg Dietrich. Beautiful handblown glasswork, wood carvings, and paintings on silk dominate the gallery, but there also is poster art and tinwork.
For more local art, check out the small shop Miguelon e Hijos (Calle 5 Sur btwn Avs. 10 and 15, 987/872-5549, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat.), which specializes in conch shells with intricately carved portraits and ancient Maya tableaus. It’s not exactly everyone’s taste, but the craftsmanship is remarkable.
Whether or not you play an instrument, U’nahi Pax (Av. Juárez at Av. 15, 987/872-5269, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat.), Maya for The House of Music, is a great little shop jam-packed with a variety of handcrafted instruments from over 37 countries—you’ll find everything from drums and rain sticks to flutes and guitars.
Bugambilias (Av. 10 Sur btwn Calles Rosado Salas and 1, tel. 987/872-6282, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) sells traditional handmade linens and clothing, most incorporating embroidery and lace. The quality is excellent, and prices range from moderate to high.
SHOPPING CENTERS
Punta Langosta (Av. Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 7 and 11, 9am-8pm daily) is Cozumel’s swankiest shopping center. The ultramodern open-air building is home to high-end clothing boutiques, air-conditioned jewelry stores, and fancy ice cream shops. It’s a good place to window shop, especially if you want to buy a memento but aren’t sure exactly what you’d like.
Located in a yellow building on the east side of the main plaza, Plaza del Sol (Av. 5 Norte btwn Av. Benito Juárez and Calle 1, 9am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.) houses a labyrinth of small souvenir shops selling everything from bad T-shirts to quality silver jewelry. You’ll have to poke around a bit to find items worth buying, but a little perseverance will go a long way, especially if you’re on a tight budget.
SCUBA DIVING
Cozumel is one the world’s best (and best known) places to scuba dive and snorkel, so it’s no surprise that the island is home to dozens of dive shops—more than 100 at last count. Virtually all offer diving, snorkeling, and all levels of certification courses; there are a handful of dive “resorts,” too, which offer packages that include lodging, diving, gear, and sometimes food.
Rates can vary considerably from shop to shop, and season to season, so be sure to clarify all the details up front. For most of the year, a two-tank fun dive costs US$72-90, plus US$12-35 per day if you need gear. Low-season rates can be significantly lower, and often include gear rental. PADI open-water certification courses (3-4 days) generally cost US$415-535, including all equipment and materials. Most shops also offer advanced courses, Nitrox and night diving, and multi-dive packages. All divers also must pay US$2 per day for marine park admission and to support Cozumel’s hyperbaric chambers and marine ambulance; ask if the fees are included in a shop’s rates or charged separately.
Dive Shops
Cozumel’s diver safety record is good, and there are many competent outfits in addition to those listed here. Consider this list a starting point, to be augmented by the recommendations of trusted fellow divers, travelers, locals, and expats. Most important, go with a shop you feel comfortable with, not just the cheapest, the cheeriest, or the most convenient. Dive shops are generally open 8am-8pm daily, closing during those business hours only if no one’s around to run the shop during a dive trip.
• Blue Angel Dive Shop (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 2.2, tel. 987/872-1631, www.blueangelresort.com)
• Careyitos Advanced Divers (Marina Caleta, tel. 987/872-1578, www.advanceddivers.com)
• Caribbean Divers (Av. 5 at Calle 3 Sur, tel. 987/872-1145, www.caribbeandiverscozumel.com)
• Deep Blue (Calle Rosado Salas at Av. 10 Sur, tel. 987/872-5653, www.deepbluecozumel.com)
• Deep Exposure Dive Center (Av. 10 Sur btwn Calles 3 Sur and Rosado Salas, tel. 987/872-3621, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/670-2736, www.deepexposuredivecenter.com)
• Eco Divers (Av. 10 at Calle 1 Sur, tel. 987/872-5628, www.cozumel-diving.net/ecodivers)
How to Choose a Dive Shop
There are close to 100 dive shops on Isla Cozumel, and scores more at Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, Cancún, Tulum, and elsewhere. Choosing just one—and then placing all your underwater faith into its hands—can be daunting.
Safety should be your number-one concern in choosing a shop. Fortunately, the standards in Cozumel and the Riviera Maya are almost universally first-rate, and accidents are rare. But that’s not a reason to be complacent. For example, don’t dive with a shop that doesn’t ask to see your certification card or logbook—if they didn’t ask you, they probably didn’t ask anyone else, and ill-trained divers are as dangerous to others in the group as they are to themselves.
Equipment is another crucial issue. You should ask to inspect the shop’s equipment, and the dive shop should be quick to comply. Although few casual divers are trained to evaluate gear, a good dive shop will appreciate your concern and be happy to put you at ease. If the staff is reluctant to show you the gear, either they aren’t too proud of it or they don’t see clients as equal partners in dive safety—both red flags.
Of course, the most important equipment is not what’s on the rack but what you actually use. On the day of your dive, get to the shop early so you have time to double-check your gear. Old equipment is not necessarily bad equipment, but you should ask for a different BCD, wetsuit, or regulator if the condition of the one assigned to you makes you uneasy. Learn how to check the O-ring (the small rubber ring that forms the seal between the tank and the regulator), and do so before every dive. You also should attach your regulator and open the valve, to listen for any hissing between the regulator and the tank, or in the primary and backup mouthpieces. If you hear any, ask the dive master to check it and, if need be, change the regulator. Arriving early lets you do all this before getting on the boat—ideally before leaving the shop—so you can swap gear if necessary.
Feeling comfortable and free to ask questions or raise concerns (of any sort at any time) is a crucial factor in safe diving. That’s where a dive shop’s personality comes in. Every dive shop has its own culture or style, and different divers will feel more comfortable in different shops. Spend some time talking to people at a couple of different dive shops before signing up. Try to meet the person who will be leading your particular dive—you may have to come in the afternoon when that day’s trip returns. Chances are one of the shops or dive masters will click with you.
Finally, there are some specific questions you should ask about a shop’s practices. Has their air been tested and certified? Do they carry radios and oxygen? Does the captain always stay with the boat? How many people will be going on your dive? How advanced are they? How many dive masters or instructors will there be? And how experienced are they? Above all, be vocal and proactive about your safety, and remember there are no stupid questions.
And, of course, have fun!
• Liquid Blue Divers (no storefront, tel. 987/869-7794, www.liquidbluedivers.com)
• Scuba Gamma (Calle 5 near Av. 5 Sur, tel. 987/878-4257, www.scubagamma.net)
• Scuba Tony (no storefront, tel. 987/869-8268, U.S. tel. 303/519-4410, www.scubatony.com)
• Studio Blue Cozumel (Calle Rosado Salas btwn Avs. 5 and 10 Sur, tel. 987/872-4414, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/341-1090, www.studioblue.com.mx)
SNORKELING
Snorkelers have plenty of options in Cozumel, from cheap-and-easy snorkeling tours to renting gear and exploring on your own, right from shore.
Most dive shops offer snorkeling as well as diving, usually visiting 2-3 sites for a half hour each (US$50-70 pp). Snorkelers often go out with a group of divers and either snorkel in the same general location or go to a nearby site while the divers are underwater. This can mean some extra downtime as divers get in and out of the water, but the advantage is that you typically go to better and less-crowded sites.
For a quick and easy snorkeling tour, stop by one of the booths that flank the ferry pier. These trips are somewhat less expensive (though with larger groups) and can be booked right as you disembark from the ferry. Most offer two tours daily at around 11am and 2pm; some use a glass-bottom boat for extra pizzazz. The standard trip (US$45, including equipment) lasts 2-3 hours, visiting two or three sites, spending 30-45 minutes snorkeling at each one. Among many operators vying for your business are Kuzamil Snorkeling Tours (tel. 987/111-9333), Dive Cozumel 1 (tel. 987/869-2591), and Amazing Cozumel Tours (no phone).
Dive Insurance
Although diving and snorkeling accidents are relatively rare on Cozumel, especially among beginning divers, you might consider purchasing secondary accident and/or trip insurance through the Divers Alert Network (DAN, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/446-2671, 24-hour emergency Mex. tel. 919/684-9111, accepts collect calls, www.diversalertnetwork.org), a highly regarded, international, nonprofit medical organization dedicated to the health and safety of snorkelers and recreational divers. Dive accident plans cost just US$30-75 per year, including medical and decompression coverage and limited trip and lost equipment coverage. More complete trip insurance—not a bad idea in hurricane country—and life and disability coverage are also available. To be eligible for insurance, you must be a member of DAN (US$35 per year).
There are several terrific snorkeling spots near town and just offshore where you don’t need a boat or a guide at all. Cozumel’s boat drivers are careful about steering clear of snorkelers, but even so, do not swim too far from shore, look up and around frequently, and stay out of obvious boat lanes. If you plan to do a lot of snorkeling, especially outside of established snorkeling areas, consider bringing or buying an inflatable personal buoy. Designed for snorkelers, they are brightly colored and have a string you attach to your ankle or to a small anchor weight, alerting boat drivers of your presence. Also be aware of the current, which typically runs south to north and can be quite strong.
KITEBOARDING
Kiteboarding has quickly and thoroughly morphed from a novelty act to one of the most popular beach sports worldwide. Cozumel is no exception, with a dedicated cadre of kiteboarders and a growing number of options for travelers who want to learn or practice the sport.
De Lille Sports (formerly Kite Cozumel, Casa Viento, Carr. Costera Norte Km. 7, tel. 987/103-6711, www.delillesports.com) is operated by Cozumel native Raul de Lille, a former Olympic-level windsurfer and now one of Mexico’s top kiters and instructors. (He now also offers stand-up paddling, hence the change of name.) Raul doesn’t come cheap, but he’s an outstanding instructor, not least for his calm demeanor and excellent English. Private lessons are US$125 per hour or US$500 per day. An intensive three-day introductory kiteboarding course includes 15 hours of instruction and costs US$900 per student (maximum 2 students per instructor); it also can be broken into modules depending on your time and previous experience. Kiteboarding rentals are US$150 per day for a full kit. For experienced kiters, de Lille offers clinics on kite control, tricks, and other specialties, plus adventuresome tours like downwinding the entire island. De Lille Sports operates out of the Casa Viento (www.casaviento.net), a great hotel north of the center and a short walk from the beach.
Cozumel is one of the Riviera Maya’s best places for kiteboarding.
© LIZA PRADO
Another locally run option is Cozumel Kiteboarding (Av. 5 Sur at Calle 3, tel. 987/876-1558, www.cozumelkiteboarding.com). Headquartered downtown in the Puro Mar Surf-Kite-Bikini shop, it offers kiting excursions around the island (4 hours, US$250 for 1 to 2 people), including to the little-visited northern lagoons: Río de Plata, Monte Cristo, and Blind Bary. Kiteboarding instruction for beginners and more experienced students also is offered.
STAND-UP PADDLING
Stand-up paddling (or “SUPing”) is the sport du jour in Cozumel and around the world, and for good reason: It’s fun and easy to learn (yet challenging to master), and is a unique way to experience Cozumel’s rich coastline and extraordinarily clear waters. The glassy waters on Cozumel’s western shore are perfect for the sport, which involves standing upright on an oversized surfboard-like board and using a long paddle to cruise around. Fitness buffs appreciate the full-core workout SUPing provides, while the elevated perspective allows you to see surprisingly well into the surrounding water—significantly better than in a kayak, in fact. It’s not uncommon to see fish, rays, even sea turtles and dolphins swimming below and around you. Numerous resorts have SUP boards available for guests, and a handful of agencies offer instruction, rentals, and tours.
De Lille Sports (Casa Viento, Carr. Costera Norte Km. 7, tel. 987/103-6711, www.delillesports.com) is operated by windsurfing and kiteboarding legend (and Cozumel native) Raul de Lille, but he’s big on SUPing too, even designing his own line of boards. The sports complement each other well: If there’s not enough wind for kiting, it’s probably perfect for SUPing, and vice versa. The agency offers private and group lessons, plus tours in remote areas of the island. SUP instruction runs US$75 per student (2-3 hours, maximum 8 students), while high-quality SUP rentals are US$25 per hour or US$85 per day.
KAYAKING
Cozumel’s calm, clear waters make it a nice place to kayak. Most all-inclusive resorts and some beach clubs have a handful of kayaks available for guests to use (free to $10/hour). If you plan to swim or snorkel along the way—a great way to enjoy little-visited spots on the reef—be sure the kayak has a small anchor to prevent it from floating away.
SPORTFISHING
Cozumel boasts good deep-sea fishing year-round. It’s one of few places anglers can go for the grand slam of billfishing: hooking into a blue marlin, a white marlin, a sailfish, and a swordfish all in a single day. It’s also got plentiful tuna, barracuda, dorado, wahoo, grouper, and shark.
Albatros Charters (tel. 987/872-7904, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/333-4643, www.alba-troscharters.com, US$420-450 for 4 hours, US$500-575 for 6 hours, US$575-650 for 8 hours) has a variety of boats, each able to carry a maximum of six anglers. Trips include hotel pickup and drop-off, beer and soda, snacks, bait, and gear.
Other recommended outfits include Aquarius Travel (tel. 987/869-1096, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/371-2924, www.aquariusflatsfishing.com) and Wahoo Tours (tel. 987/869-8560, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 866/645-8977, www.wahootours.com).
ECOPARKS AND WATER PARKS
Parque Punta Sur (Faro Celarain Eco Park)
Better known as Parque Punta Sur, Faro Celarain Eco Park (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 27, tel. 987/872-0914, http://cozumelparks.gob.mx, 9am-5pm daily, US$10 adult, US$5 child over 8) is a massive natural reserve on the southern tip of Cozumel. The park spans thousands of acres of coastal dunes, beaches, mangroves, and wetlands, and extends well out into the ocean, including large areas of coral reef. It’s home to a vast array of land and sea creatures, including 30 types of sea-birds and some huge crocodiles that live in the park’s large inland lagoons. There’s a small Maya ruin known as El Caracol, which dates to AD 1200 and is believed to have been used for navigation, plus the park’s famous lighthouse (which you can climb for great views) and a small but rewarding maritime museum. At the park’s long, lovely beach—about a kilometer past the lighthouse—there are beach chairs, restrooms, a small eatery, and a shop to rent snorkel gear (US$10) and kayaks. The snorkeling here is outstanding, including sea fan “forests” that wave gently in the current.
the road into Parque Punta Sur, a large natural reserve with excellent beaches and snorkeling
© LIZA PRADO
Most visitors visit on package tours, but it’s perfectly easy to visit independently; there’s even a separate area away from the volleyball nets and buffet lines for people arriving on their own. You’ll need a car—there used to be shuttle service into the park, but no longer—and you should arrive no later than 1pm in order to take full advantage of all the park has to offer.
Parque Chankanaab
Some 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) south of town, Parque Chankanaab (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 9, tel. 987/872-0914, http://cozumelparks.gob.mx, 8am-5pm daily, US$21 adult, US$14 child under 12) is a national park that operates mainly as a beach club and water park; that is to say, more Xcaret than Punta Sur. A visit here includes sunbathing by the pool, snorkeling in the ocean, relaxing in a hammock, and watching the sea lion and dolphin shows (included in the ticket price). Dolphin Discovery (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/727-5391, www.dolphindiscovery.com) has a facility within the park, with various interactive programs with dolphins, as well as manatees and sea lions, for an additional fee. Reserve in advance or right upon arrival, as they fill up fast. Chankanaab also has a fully equipped dive shop on-site, plus two thatch-roofed restaurants, a handful of gift shops, lockers, and restrooms. Chankanaab may be a bit commercialized for independent travelers—consider Punta Sur instead—but it’s a great option for families looking for an easy all-day option.
GOLF
Jack Nicklaus designed the par-72 championship course at Cozumel Country Club (Carr. Costera Norte Km 6.5, tel. 987/872-9570, www.cozumelcountryclub.com.mx, 6:30am-6pm daily), located at the far end of the northern hotel zone. Greens fees are US$169 until 12:30pm, when they drop to US$105. Carts are required and included in the rate. In addition to the slightly rolling, moderately challenging course, the club has a driving range, putting and chipping areas, overnight bag storage, a retail shop, and lessons from PGA golf pros. Book online for a discount.
SPAS AND GYMS
Cozumel Spa (Condos El Palmar, Carr. Costera Sur Km. 3.8, tel. 987/872-6615, www.cozumelspa.com) gets high marks from visitors and locals alike. A wide range of services includes massages for singles or couples (US$50-140), facials (US$50), and specialty treatments like aromatherapy, cold stone massage, and chocolate body wraps (US$50-100).
The most modern gym on the island, EGO (Calle 11 at Av. 5, tel. 987/872-4897, 5am-11pm Mon.-Fri., 6am-6pm Sat.) is a full-service facility complete with free weights, weight machines, cardio machines (plus personal trainers to help), and a slew of classes including Pilates, yoga, spinning, and kickboxing. Monthly membership is US$55, while visitors pay US$8 for the day. All that, plus the air-conditioning can’t be beat!
TOURS
Horseback Riding
Located on the inland side of the highway across from Nachi-Cocom beach club, Rancho Palmitas (Carr. Costera Sur Km. 16, cell. tel. 987/119-1012, 8am-4pm daily) offers two horseback tours. A 2.5- to 3-hour tour (US$40 pp) includes stops at a cavern with a cenote, the archaeological site of El Cedral, and a few unexcavated Maya ruins. A shorter 1.5-hour tour (US$35 pp) leads to the cavern only. Call to set up a tour or just drop in—the last excursion leaves at 3pm.
ATV Excursions
Though catering to cruise ship passengers, Wild Tours (Av. 10 Bis btwn Calles 13 and 15, tel. 987/872-5876, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/497-4283, www.wild-tours.com, 9am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-2pm Sat.-Sun.) offers ATV excursions to everyone. Tours include off-roading through the jungle, visiting isolated Maya ruins, and snorkeling at Chankanaab reef (US$70-80 adult, US$110 child with adult, 4 hours; US$58-65 adult, US$90 child with adult, 2 hours). Tours leave from a staging area in front of Carlos ’n Charlie’s in Punta Langosta.
Submarine Tour
Atlantis Submarines (Carr. Costera Km. 4, tel. 987/872-4354, www.atlantissubmarines.com, US$99 adult, US$59 child) offers 40-minute underwater excursions near Chankanaab ecopark. The subs have oversized portholes with low seats in a long row down the center. Staff members describe what you’re seeing outside. The sub dives as deep as 120 feet; you’re sure to see plenty of fish and coral formations, and, if you’re really lucky, a shark or sea turtle. It’s pretty pricey considering how short the actual tour is, but it’s a memorable way for youngsters and nondivers to admire Cozumel’s marine riches.
DOWNTOWN COZUMEL
Under US$50
Just one block from the central plaza, Hostelito (Av. 10 btwn Av. Benito Juárez and Calle 2 Norte, cell. tel. 987/869-8157, www.hostelcozumel.com, US$12.50 dorm, US$37.50-55 s/d with a/c) is a stylish hostel—Cozumel’s only hostel, in fact—with a large coed dorm packed with bunks, lockers, and fans. Groups of four or more should ask about the air-conditioned dorm with private bathroom—at US$12.50 per head, they’re a steal. Private doubles have air-conditioning, minifridge, and TV—they were being renovated when we passed through, so ought to be in nice condition. A fully equipped rooftop kitchen is available for all to use, as is a great lounge and solarium with hammocks for just kicking back. There’s free Wi-Fi, too.
Hotel Pepita (Av. 15 Sur btwn Calles 1 and Rosado Salas, tel. 987/872-0098, US$35 s/d with a/c) is a good value for traveler ’tweens: post-hostel but pre-B&B. The friendly owners keep the rooms very clean, though some of the beds are saggy, and the decor could use some serious updating. All have air-conditioning, ceiling fan, cable TV, minifridge, and two double beds. There’s also fresh coffee every morning in the long inner courtyard.
Hotel Caribe (Calle 2 Norte btwn Avs 15 and 20, tel. 987/872-0325, US$46-54 s/d with a/c) has a small, appealing pool in a leafy central garden—a rare and welcome feature in the ranks of budget hotels. Rooms are plain but clean, with one, two, or three beds, okay bathrooms, and old-school air conditioners. Service can be ambivalent, but you can’t argue with the value.
Hotel Mary Carmen (Av. 5 Sur btwn Calles 1 and Rosado Salas, tel. 987/872-0581, US$33 s/d with a/c) is a simple but reliable budget hotel, with a great location to make up for so-so rooms. Rooms have cute decor and are reasonably clean, though the air conditioners and bathrooms are showing their age. The owners are friendly, and you can’t beat being on the pedestrian walkway just a half block from the square.
US$50-100
Mi Casa en Cozumel (Av. 5 btwn Calles 7 and 9, tel. 987/872-6200, www.micasaencozumel.com, US$45-70 s/d, US$160 penthouse) is a terrific boutique hotel and an architectural gem—the curves of the spiral staircase and interior walls are counterbalanced by triangular patios and angled nooks occupied by whirlpool tubs. All nine units have contemporary Mexican decor, most have a minifridge and cable TV, and a few have kitchenettes. Complimentary continental breakfast is served in a cozy ground-floor dining area. Several units have air-conditioning, while the others were designed for natural ventilation and are quite comfortable with fans only. The split-level penthouse is stunning, with full kitchen, outdoor hot tub, front and rear patios, and great views. The hotel’s lofty structure is equally impressive, but could be difficult for guests who have trouble climbing stairs. Weekly rates are available.
Tamarindo Bed and Breakfast (Calle 4 btwn Avs. 20 and 25 Norte, tel. 987/872-6190 or 987/112-4111, www.tamarindobedandbreakfast.com, US$45-51 s/d with fan, US$57 s/d with a/c and minifridge, US$62 suite with a/c and kitchenette) is a pleasant B&B owned by a friendly French expatriate who lives on-site. The hotel has seven units bordering a large, leafy garden. Each room is different from the other, from two boxy but comfortable hotel rooms to a whimsical palapa bungalow with boho flair. All have cable TV and Wi-Fi. Full breakfast is included for rooms without a kitchenette, and there’s a small communal kitchen. Rinse tanks and storage facilities are provided for guests with dive gear, too. The same owner also rents three apartments and bungalows (US$69-79 s/d) known as Tamarindo II; located south of the center a few blocks from the water, they’ve got one or two bedrooms, air-conditioning, kitchen, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and a small pool. Reservations are highly recommended.
Amaranto Bungalows & Suites (Calle 5 btwn Avs. 15 and 20 Sur, cell. tel. 987/106-6220, www.amarantobedandbreakfast.com, US$59 s/d bungalow with a/c, US$65 s/d suite, US$75 s/d suite with a/c) offers seclusion and privacy, while still within easy walking distance from downtown. The shining stars of the place are the suites, in a three-story tower, each with a sitting area and 360-degree views; the lower unit has air-conditioning, high ceilings, and a modern feel, while the upper one has a palapa roof that offers a birds-eye view. There also are three thatch-roofed bungalows with modern bathrooms and beachy decor. All the rooms have king-size beds, minifridges, microwaves, cable TV, and security boxes. There is a plunge pool on-site—perfect for cooling off after a day in the sun—and Wi-Fi in the lobby. Breakfast is included during high season, too. Amaranto doesn’t have a full-time attendant, so it’s best to reserve in advance.
Hotel Flamingo (Calle 6 btwn Avs. Rafael Melgar and 5 Norte, tel. 987/872-1264, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/806-1601, www.hotelflamingo.com, US$79-91 s/d with a/c, US$195 penthouse) offers classy, well-priced rooms with modern furnishings, mosaic tile bathrooms, and colorful Guatemalan decor, all in a quiet north-of-center location. Rooms have mini-split air-conditioners, electronic safes, and cable TV. Three common areas provide lots of extra outdoor space for guests—a rooftop solarium with lounge chairs and Jacuzzi, a shady midlevel area with hammocks, and a garden courtyard with tables and chairs. Wi-Fi is available in the lobby and bar areas. Families and groups should consider the penthouse, a two-bedroom apartment with full-size kitchen, private Jacuzzi, even a rooftop grill. Book in advance to get full breakfast at no charge.
Located in the heart of San Miguel, Villa Escondida (Av. 10 Sur btwn Calles 3 Sur and Rosado Salas, tel. 987/120-1225, www.villaescondidacozumel.com, US$90 s/d with a/c) is an adults-only B&B with just four guest rooms. Each is modern—if a bit sparse—in style, with comfortable beds and spacious bathrooms. All look onto a well-tended garden complete with an inviting swimming pool, lounge chairs, and hammocks. A full-size breakfast—from pancakes to chilaquiles—is served on the hotel terrace. Complimentary bicycles and snorkeling gear also are available to guests.
words of wisdom at Hotel B Cozumel
© LIZA PRADO
Vista del Mar (Av. Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 5 and 7 Sur, tel. 987/872-0545, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/309-9988, www.hotelvistadelmar.com, US$78-90 s/d with a/c) is a charming hotel in the middle of a string of tacky souvenir shops. Rooms have muted earth tones, high-end decor, inlaid stone walls, and balconies (some with spectacular views of the Caribbean). All have cable TV, minifridges, safety deposit boxes, robes—even turndown service. The hotel’s patio also has lots of comfy lounge chairs as well as a hot tub with a mosaic-tile floor—a great space to hang if you don’t mind the view of the kitsch below. Continental breakfast, delivered to your room, is included.
Suites Bahía (Calle 3 btwn Avs. Rafael Melgar and 5 Sur, tel. 987/872-9090, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/277-2639, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/228-6747, www.suitesbahia.com, US$67-92 s/d with a/c) and Suites Colonial (Av. 5 Sur btwn Calles 1 and Rosado Salas, 987/872-0506, same toll-free tels., www.suitescolonial.com, US$59 s/d with a/c, US$67 suite with a/c) are sister hotels, renting unremarkable but functional and well-priced rooms. The Colonial is more central, right on the pedestrian walkway, with slightly newer rooms and full kitchenettes. For a bit higher rate, rooms at the Bahía are larger and brighter (especially the ocean-view ones), and still have minifridges and microwave ovens. Neither hotel will win any awards for charm, but units are clean and reasonably comfortable, and include air-conditioning, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and (perhaps best of all) buffet breakfast at upscale Casa Mexicana hotel, a third sister in the family.
Over US$100
Villa Las Anclas (Av. 5 Sur btwn Calles 3 and 5, tel. 987/872-5476, www.hotelvillalasanclas.com, US$110 s/d with a/c) is a great option for those who want a little home away from home. Seven pleasantly decorated apartments open onto a leafy, private garden, each with a fully equipped kitchen, a living room, and a loft master bedroom accessed by spiral stairs. Using the sofas as beds, the apartments can accommodate up to four people while still not feeling overcrowded. All units also have air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. New owners have brought some welcome updates—a fresh coat of paint, newer TVs and appliances, and a reception area and dive shop in front—while the friendly vibe and great value remain the same.
Guido’s Boutique Hotel (Av Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 6 and 8 Norte, tel. 987/872-0946, www.guidosboutiquehotel.com, US$110-130) is less a hotel and more do-it-yourself apartments, but the location, amenities, and price make Guido’s an outstanding option. Masters have king beds, while juniors have queens; all are spacious, with full-size kitchens, stylish decor, and satellite TV and Wi-Fi. Each has a small balcony overlooking the street and ocean—traffic can get noisy but the views are priceless. The hotel is located just north of the center, above Guido’s Restaurant, one of the island’s best. There’s no formal reception, so reserve ahead.
Casa Mexicana (Av. Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 5 and 7, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/277-2639, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/228-6747, www.casamexicanacozumel.com, US$90-110 s/d with a/c) is a modern beauty with a soaring interior courtyard and gorgeous views of the Caribbean from the ocean-side rooms, including cruise ships gliding in and out of port. Rooms are attractive and bright, though less inspired than the building itself, with good beds, quiet air conditioners, and updated bathrooms. There is a small infinity pool overlooking the water on one end of the spacious lobby; it’s a little strange to be taking a dip in view of desk staff and inquiring guests, but still quite nice. Rates include buffet breakfast in an impressive open-air dining room.
A long walk from town but worth every step, Casa Colonial (Av. 35 btwn Calles 8 and 10, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 866/437-1320, www.cozumelrentalvillas.com, US$1,075/week with a/c) has four fully equipped Mexican-style villas. All are two stories with two bedrooms, 2.5 bathrooms, a living room, a dining room, a modern kitchen, 32-inch hi-def TV, Wi-Fi, even a washer and dryer. And unlike many longer-term rentals, you still get daily maid service and complimentary concierge service. All villas face a lush courtyard with a large pool and hot tub. Dive rinse tanks are available, too.
NORTHWESTERN COZUMEL
US$100-150
Located just minutes from some of Cozumel’s best kiteboarding spots, the aptly named Casa Viento (House of Wind, Country Club Estates, tel. 987/869-8220, www.casaviento.net, US$110-190 s/d with a/c) has comfortable rooms and cheerful mi casa es su casa service from the live-in owners. Choose between large standard rooms, one- and two-bedroom suites with kitchen, and a honeymoon suite with cupola and great ocean views; all rooms have air-conditioning and Wi-Fi, and look onto a welcoming pool. If you’re interested in kiting, Casa Viento also is home base for De Lille Sports, a kiting school and tour operator run by legendary Mexican kiteboarder Raul de Lille.
Condumel (Zona Hotelera Norte Km. 1.5, tel. 987/872-0892, www.condumel.com, US$120-142 for up to 4 people) is an old-school but very agreeable oceanfront condo complex, located a 15-minute walk from downtown. Spacious one-bedroom apartments have king-size beds, Wi-Fi, fully equipped kitchens, and daily maid service. Oversized sliding-glass doors offer awesome views of the Caribbean and incoming airplanes. The coast here is ironshore, so there’s just a small patch of sand; steps and a ladder make swimming and snorkeling easy.
Over US$150
Playa Azul Hotel (Zona Hotelera Norte Km. 4, tel. 987/869-5160, www.playa-azul.com, US$165 s/d) caters mostly to golfers—guests pay no greens fees at Cozumel Country Club—but has packages for divers and honeymooners as well. Medium-size rooms and more spacious suites all have fairly modern furnishings, large bathrooms, and excellent ocean views, and include full breakfast. The pool is clean and attractive, but the beach (already small) can get crowded with day-trippers.
Oozing cool, Hotel B Cozumel (Zona Hotelera Norte Km. 2.5, tel. 987/872-0300, www.hotelbcozumel.com, US$216 s/d) is a boutique hotel that combines midcentury aesthetic with traditional Mexican decor. Rooms have clean lines, lots of natural light, and feature gorgeous Mexican folk art. All have a balcony or patio and the amenities you’d expect—silent air-conditioning, cable TV, and Wi-Fi. Most have ocean views, too. Outdoors, there’s a breezy gourmet restaurant, a great half-moon pool, plus lots of sandy areas with hammocks and beach chairs. The only thing missing is a beach. The waterfront has lots of ironshore, so the hotel has done its best to create plenty of entry points to the water.
SOUTHWESTERN COZUMEL
Under US$150
A laid-back dive resort, Blue Angel Resort (Carr. Sur Km. 2.2, tel. 987/872-0819, www.blueangelresort.com, US$110 s/d) provides all the amenities a diver could want: a reputable dive shop, reliable boats, an on-site dock, and drying racks and lockers for gear. The rooms themselves are modern but basic; all have great ocean views. There’s also an open-air restaurant, a well-tended pool, and plenty of shady places to sit back and relax. The only thing really missing is a beach. If you can live with that, this a perfect place to stay awhile.
Scuba Club Cozumel (Carr. Sur Km. 1.5, tel. 987/872-0853, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/847-5708, www.scubaclubcozumel.com, US$130 pp all-inclusive) is an old-school dive hotel with great packages, an on-site dock, and drying racks for your gear. Rooms are basic—clean and bare bones (good beds and a balcony yes, cable TV and Wi-Fi no). There’s a small pool and a sandy area on the water, too. Meals are typically included in the rate and are served in a bustling dining room with plastic tables and chairs. Not exactly a tropical getaway but perfect if you’ll be underwater most of the time anyway.
Over US$150
Presidente InterContinental Cozumel Resort Spa (Carr. Sur Km. 6.5, tel. 987/872-9500, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/327-0200, www.intercontinentalcozumel.com, US$218-415 s/d with a/c, US$1,080-2,250 suite) may well be the best resort in Cozumel, with sleek sophisticated rooms that have high-end amenities as well as niceties like twice-daily maid service and turndown service. While the views are of either garden or ocean, all roads lead to a mellow and welcoming pool scene and a great beach—despite the ironshore—thick white sand and calm, turquoise waters with plenty of access points for snorkelers and shore divers. A well-regarded dive shop, two lighted tennis courts, three restaurants, and a full-service spa round out this elegant hotel.
Iberostar Cozumel (Carr. Sur Km. 17.8, tel. 987/872-9900, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/923-2722, www.iberostar.com, US$200-450 s/d all-inclusive) is a basic all-inclusive with well-kempt, lush grounds. It’s a good option if you’re traveling on a budget but want a resort experience. The rooms, for instance, are located in two-story bungalows but have dated decor. The beach is wide but has lots of rocky areas—great for snorkeling, not so great for wading (bring water shoes). The food is fine for a long weekend—there’s an extensive buffet and snack bar plus two reservations-only restaurants (dinner only). Service is consistently good too, and the activity offerings include water aerobics and yoga. There’s also an on-site dive and snorkel shop. All in all, this is a good value if you find an online deal. If it’s rack rates only, head elsewhere.
The adults-only Secrets Aura Cozumel (Carr. Sur Km. 12.9, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/546-7445, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/413-3886, www.secretsresorts.com, US$243-305 pp all-inclusive) is a small all-inclusive resort sitting on a lush oceanfront property. It has features like à la carte dining (no buffets here) and top-shelf drinks, and modern, spacious rooms. If you can swing it budget-wise, opt for a “swim-up” room, which provides direct access to one of the resort’s winding pools through the room’s patio door (as in open the door and step right in).
The only hotel on the east side of the island, Ventanas al Mar (south end of Playa Tortugas, cell. tel. 987/105-2684, www.ventanasalmar.com.mx, US$94-104 s/d, US$164-184 s/d suite) has 12 large rooms and two suites, all with high ceilings and private patios or decks, many with marvelous ocean views. The interiors lack the detailing and upkeep you’d expect at this price but suit the hotel’s isolated feel. All have kitchenettes with microwaves; some have minifridges. There’s no air-conditioning, as the hotel runs almost entirely on wind and solar power. Fortunately, the constant sea breeze keeps rooms cool. There’s a popular restaurant and beach club next door, but you’ll probably want a car, as the east side has no ATM, grocery stores, or other services. Or you can embrace the isolation: Many guests spend a week or more without going to town at all. Rates include full breakfast.
Cozumel’s food scene is steadily improving, with an ever-increasing variety and quality of restaurants. Like most islands, it has terrific seafood, always served fresh, from gourmet restaurants with executive chefs to simple eateries operated by local fisherman’s cooperatives. (You may be surprised to learn, though, that much of the catch actually comes from around Isla Mujeres because the waters around Cozumel are protected). The island’s popularity with Americans, especially hungry divers, means you’ll never want for steak, pizza, or big breakfasts, but there’s a growing number of fine international options, including Italian, Argentinean, and, of course, Mexican.
MEXICAN AND YUCATECAN
Kinta (Av. 5 btwn Calle 2 and 4 Norte, tel. 987/869-0544, www.kintacozumel.com, 5:30pm-11pm Tues.-Sun., US$10-17) is a chic restaurant serving gourmet Mexican dishes and out-of-sight cocktails. Seating is indoors in a modern, welcoming space or outdoors in a leafy tropical garden. The menu includes such specialties as the chile relleno, a poblano chile stuffed with ratatouille and Chihuahua cheese, and kamarón adobado, grilled shrimp marinated in achiote with caramelized pineapple salsa. Be sure to try the tamarindo martini—unforgettable! Reservations are recommended.
Parrilla Mission (Av. 30 btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 987/872-3581, www.parrillamission.com, 7am-11pm daily, US$3-14) specializes in tacos, served on delicious handmade corn tortillas and heaped with fresh grilled steak, chicken, or everyone’s favorite, al pastor (spicy grilled pork). A self-serve “sides bar” includes not just salsa, cilantro, and lime, but Spanish rice, beans, and grilled onions as well. The rest of the menu is pretty outstanding too, including mole, chiles rellenos, and fajitas, all very reasonably priced. This place is a favorite among locals and a highlight for tourists willing to venture beyond the main downtown area.
The breezy palapa-roofed La Candela (Av. 5 at Calle 6 Norte, tel. 987/878-4471, 8am-11:30pm Mon.-Sat., US$3-14) offers an extensive lineup of Mexican and traditional Yucatecan dishes in a cafeteria-style setting. Check out what’s steaming behind the glass window cases, find a seat, then place your order with your waiter. Lunch specials typically include soup or pasta, a main dish, and a drink (US$5-6).
For some local flavor, Sabores (Av. 5 btwn Calles 3 and 5, no phone, noon-4pm Mon.-Sat., US$5-13) is a great family-run restaurant operated out of a bright yellow house. Lunch specials, known across Mexico as comida corrida, run US$4-8 and come with soup, fruit drink, and your choice among a selection of traditional main dishes. Dine in the converted living room or under the shade trees in the backyard.
Pancho’s Backyard (Av. Rafael Melgar 27 btwn Avs. 8 and 10 Norte, tel. 987/872-2141, www.panchosbackyard.com, 10am-11pm Mon.-Sat., 6pm-11pm Sun., US$11-24) is Mexico epitomized: gurgling fountains, colonial-style decor, live marimba during the lunch hour, and Mexican haute cuisine, including camarones a la naranja (orange shrimp flambéed in tequila) and chiles rellenos (peppers stuffed with meat, bananas, and walnuts). Though popular with cruise ship travelers, this perennial favorite is big enough that it never feels crowded.
Otates Tacos (Av. 15 btwn Calles Rosado Salas and 3, no phone, noon-11pm daily, US$2-6) is a bustling taco joint serving authentic Mexican grub at nearly street-cart prices. Tacos are just the beginning, served piping hot on tiny corn tortillas; the quesadillas, tortas (Mexican-style sandwiches), and pozole (pork and hominy soup) are all terrific, and the guacamole is rave-worthy. Service is fast and friendly, with menus in Spanish and English.
Taquería El Pique (Av. Pedro Joaquín Coldwell btwn Av. Benito Juárez and Calle 2, 7pm-midnight daily, US$2-5) is a classic taco joint serving pint-size tacos, chunky guacamole, gooey queso fundido (melted cheese for dipping), and more. It’s a locals’ favorite, though a small stream of expats and tourists make their way here too.
La Cozumeleña (Av. 10 Sur at Calle 3, 7am-3pm daily) is popular with local families and professionals, serving classic dishes in a quiet air-conditioned dining area. For breakfast, try chilaquiles (fried tortilla strips, scrambled eggs, and chicken doused in green or red salsa) or eggs with chaya. Lunch specials include a main dish, like fish tacos or baked chicken, and a drink. There’s a bakery next door too, for fresh breads and pastries.
Corazón Contento (Av. 10 Sur at Calle 3, 7am-3pm daily) has a peaceful and welcoming ambience befitting its name (Contented Heart), while the stenciled walls and colorful tile floors are reminiscent of Mérida. Service is friendly, with great bottomless coffee and simple breakfast and lunch specials. Watch out: The bread basket is charged per item, and the chocolate-filled croissants are almost impossible to resist!
SEAFOOD
El Viejo y La Mar (Av. 5 Sur btwn Calles 9 and 9 Bis, no phone, noon-8pm daily, US$5-15) is a low-key eatery run by a local fisherman’s cooperative, so the fish is especially fresh and well-priced. Whole fried fish is US$9 per kilo (2.2 pounds); a half kilo makes for a hefty meal. There are a dozen different ceviche and cocktail options, and just as many fillets. Eat in the large open-air dining area, or order to go if it’s near closing time.
Camilo’s (Av. 5 btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 987/872-6161, 11am-9pm daily, US$8-16) is a small place offering an abundance of fresh seafood: ceviche, shrimp cocktail, lobster tail, fried fish, grilled fish—you name it, they’ve probably got it. It’s popular with locals, and travelers are beginning to trickle in now, too.
A family-run restaurant, La Conchita del Caribe (Av. 65 btwn Calles 13 and 15, tel. 987/872-5888, www.laconchitadelcaribe.com, 11:30am-7:30pm daily, US$9-16) is another locals’ favorite, in a spacious location. When ordering whole fish—the house specialty, served grilled or fried—you’ll be asked to pick the fish you want out of a cooler by the counter and will be charged according to size. And whether you order fish, shrimp, or other seafood, it was almost certainly swimming earlier in the day. This is a great off-the-tourist-path option; takeout is also available.
OTHER SPECIALTIES
La Cocay (Calle 8 btwn Avs. 10 and 15, tel. 987/872-5533, www.lacocay.com, 5:30pm-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$15-22) offers Mediterranean cuisine with flair. The menu changes seasonally, but expect to see dishes like fish of the day with cilantro herb mojo and blue-cheese-filled phyllo dough rolls with black cherry sauce. Seating is in a candlelit dining room or on the breezy garden patio—perfect for a special night out.
Al Pie del Carbon (Calle 6 at Av. 5, cell. tel. 987/101-2599, 3pm-11pm Tues.-Sun., US$8-16) is a popular Argentinean steak house serving up excellent cuts of beef, plus tasty salads and sides, and a decent wine list. Steaks are grilled over an open flame and can be enjoyed in the restaurant’s air-conditioned dining room or open-air patio. The empanadas, another Argentinean classic, make great appetizers.
Fish tacos are a Riviera Maya staple: simple, classic, delicious.
© LIZA PRADO
Founded in 1978 and passed from father to daughter, Guido’s (Av. Rafael Melgar btwn Calles 6 and 8, tel. 987/872-0946, www.guidoscozumel.com, 11am-11pm Mon.-Sat., 2:30pm-9:30pm Sun., US$13-17) is a bit pricey but worth every peso, serving unique Italian-ish dishes like brick-oven baked lasagna, homemade pastas, memorable seafood dishes (like prosciutto-wrapped sea scallops), and excellent sangria and desserts. The leafy courtyard setting makes a meal here all the more worthwhile.
Cruise ship crew members beeline to Chi (above Pizza Hut, Calle 3 at Av. Rafael Melgar, tel. 987/869-8156, www.chicozumel.com, 9:30am-midnight Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-2am Thurs.-Sat., noon-midnight Sun., US$8-15) for its gorgeous ocean views and extensive pan-Asian menu, including Chinese, Thai, Japanese, and Filipino dishes. The sushi is mediocre (ham nigiri?) but the rest is quite tasty, and a nice change of culinary pace.
Not content to rest on its laurels, New Especias (Calle 3 btwn Avs. 5 and 10, tel. 987/869-7947, 6pm-11pm daily except Wed., US$6-18) has a new look, new menu, and new location—sort of. The restaurant occupies just the 2nd floor of the building now, including a narrow patio with street views and a breezy dining area in the rear. That makes room for a lively new bar downstairs, with the idea that guests will migrate from one to the other, and even to the bistro tables set up on the sidewalk in front. The menu, once an eclectic mix of Argentinian, Thai, and Jamaican, is now strictly Italian—and quite good at that.
Del Sur (corner of Av 5 Sur and Calle 3, tel. 987/871-5744, 5pm-11pm Mon-Sat, US$2-21) serves crispy Argentinian empanadas and hearty steak (plus seafood, chicken, and salads) in a homey and attractive dining room. Order a couple of empanadas as a starter, or several for a full meal; either way, they go great with a cold beer. If you’re ordering from the grill, ask for a recommendation from the restaurant’s excellent wine list. There’s live tango on Fridays.
SWEETS
At Zermatt (Av. 5 Norte at Calle 4, tel. 987/872-1384, 7am-8:30pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-noon Sun., US$1-2.50) you may have to jostle with locals for a crack at the island’s best fresh breads, pastries, and other traditional Mexican baked goods.
Nacho Crazy Boy (Av. 20 Sur btwn Av. Benito Juárez and Calle 1, 8am-11pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-2pm Sun., US$2) serves outstanding juices and smoothies right from the patio of the owner’s modest house. Fruits fresh from the market are squeezed and blended on the spot by Nacho Crazy Boy himself, an earnest and interesting guy who makes time for conversation with customers.
La Flor de Michoacán (Calle 1 near Av. 10, 9am-11pm daily, US$1-2) serves cool treats, including aguas (fruit drinks), nieves (ice cream), and paletas (popsicles).
GROCERIES
Whatever groceries you need, you’ll find them and more at MEGA (Av. Rafael Melgar at Calle 11, tel. 987/872-3658, 7:30am-11pm daily), the island’s largest supermarket.
Super San Francisco de Asis (Av. Pedro Joaquín Coldwell btwn Av. Benito Juárez and Calle 2, 7:30am-11pm daily) is another large supermarket.
For a traditional market experience, Cozumel’s Mercado Municipal (Av. 25 btwn Calles 1 and Rosado Salas, 7am-3pm daily) has stalls brimming with colorful produce, freshly butchered chickens, eggs, cheese, spices, and more, all at reasonable prices.
TOURIST INFORMATION
The city tourist office has three information booths (8am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-2pm Sun.)—in the central plaza, at the international pier, and at Puerta Maya pier. English is spoken at all locations.
The Free Blue Guide to Cozumel has good maps and listings for a range of services, from restaurants to dive shops. Look for the booklet as you get off the ferry.
There are numerous websites with news, tips, maps, special deals, discussion groups, and other information about Cozumel, including www.thisiscozumel.com, www.cozumelinsider.com, www.cozumelmycozumel.com, www.cozumeltoday.com, http://everythingcozumel.com, and even www.cruiseportinsider.com.
EMERGENCY SERVICES
Centro Médico de Cozumel (CMC, Calle 1A Sur at Av. 50, tel. 987/872-9400, www.centromedicodecozumel.com.mx, 24 hours) accepts many foreign insurance plans, though the prices tend to be high.
A good alternative is the Clínica-Hospital San Miguel (Calle 6 Norte btwn Avs. 5 and 10, tel. 987/872-0103, 24 hours), offering general medical services.
Cozumel’s Hyperbaric Medical Center (Calle 5 btwn Avs. Rafael Melgar and 5 Sur, tel. 987/872-1430, office hours 10am-5pm daily, nurse and doctor on-call 24 hours) specializes in diver-related medical treatment, though nondiving ailments also are treated.
For meds, try Farmacia Similares (Calle 1 Sur at Av. 15 Norte, tel. 987/869-2440, 9am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-2pm Sun.). Mexico now requires a prescription for many antibiotics; this pharmacy has an on-site consultorio (doctor’s office), open roughly the same hours.
The tourist police (Calle 11 Sur near Av. Rafael Melgar, 8am-11pm daily) are stationed in a kiosk near Punta Langosta, though officers often can be found patrolling the central plaza.
The police station (Palacio Municipal, Calle 13 btwn Avs. 5 and Rafael Melgar, tel. 987/872-0092, 24 hours) can be reached toll-free at 066.
MONEY
Accessing your money is not difficult in Cozumel, especially near the central plaza. HSBC (Av. 5 Sur at Calle 1, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-3pm Sat.), Bancomer (Av. 5 Sur btwn Av. Juárez and Calle 1, 8:30am-4pm Mon.-Fri.), and Banorte (Av. 5 Norte btwn Av. Juárez and Calle 2, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-2pm Sat.) all have ATMs and exchange foreign cash.
MEDIA AND COMMUNICATIONS
Cozumel’s post office (Av. Rafael Melgar at Calle 7, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-1pm Sat.) is next to Punta Langosta shopping center.
There are myriad Internet cafés where you can get online, make international phone calls, burn photos to CDs, and more. Phonet (Calle Rosado Salas at Av. 10, 8am-11pm daily) is a quiet, reliable place charging US$0.85 per hour for Internet use and US$0.35 per minute for calls to the United States and Canada.
IMMIGRATION AND CONSULATES
The immigration office (Av. 15 Sur at Calle 5, tel. 987/872-0071) is open 9am-1pm Monday-Friday. There are immigration agents at the airport, too (7pm-9pm daily).
The U.S. Consular Agency (Plaza Villamar, central plaza, tel. 987/872-4574, usgov@cozumel.net) is open noon-2pm Monday-Friday. Look for it on the 2nd floor toward the back.
LAUNDRY
Lavandería Margarita (Av. 20 btwn Calle 3 and Av. Rosado Salas, no phone, 7am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-4pm Sun.) charges US$7.75-10 per load to wash and dry, up to 8 kilos (17.5 pounds).
Lavandería Wash Express (Av. 10 btwn Calles 7 and 9, no phone, 7:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-3pm Sun.) charges US$1.25 per kilo; drop off early for same-day service.
GETTING THERE
Air
Cozumel International Airport (CZM, tel. 987/872-2081, www.asur.com.mx) is approximately three kilometers (1.9 miles) from downtown. The airport has an ATM in the departures area, AmEx currency exchange at arrivals, and a few magazine stands and duty-free shops. The airport taxi cooperative (tel. 987/872-1323) provides private and shared transport to the center and to resorts along the western coast. Prices vary by destination. Private taxis are US$11-21 per person, while shared transport costs US$5-8 per person and utilizes 10-person shuttles or Suburbans; departures are every 5-20 minutes. A taxi stand near the exit sells tickets and has prices prominently displayed.
Bus
Ticket Bus (Calle 2 at Av 10 Sur, tel. 987/869-2553, 8am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-8pm Sun.) sells tickets for ADO buses leaving from Playa del Carmen at no extra charge, a handy service for when you’re ready to move on.
Ferry
Passenger ferries to Playa del Carmen (US$13 each way, 30 minutes) leave from the passenger ferry pier across from the central plaza. UltraMar (www.granpuerto.com.mx) and Mexico Water Jets (www.mexicowaterjets.com.mx) alternate departures and charge the same amount, though UltraMar’s boats are newer. Their ticket booths are opposite each other partway down the pier, with the time of the next departure displayed prominently. The ticket seller may try to sell you a round-trip ticket, but there’s no savings in doing so; better to buy a sencilla (one-way ticket) and wait to see which company’s ferry is departing when you’re ready to return. Between the two companies, there are ferries every 1-2 hours on the hour 6am-9pm daily.
The following airlines service Cozumel International Airport (CZM, tel. 987/872-2081, www.asur.com.mx):
• Air Canada (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/719-2827, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/247-2262, www.aircanada.com)
• American Airlines (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/904-6000, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 800/433-7300, www.aa.com)
• Continental (airport tel. 987/872-0847, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/900-5000, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 800/864-8331, www.continental.com)
• Delta (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/123-4710, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/221-1212, www.delta.com)
• Frontier Airlines (toll-free U.S. tel. 800/432-1359, www.frontierairlines.com)
• United Airlines (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/900-5000, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 800/864-8331, www.united.com)
• US Airways (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/843-3000, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/428-4322, www.usairways.com)
Car ferries operated by Transcaribe (tel. 987/872-7688 or 987/872-7671 in Cozumel, www.transcaribe.net) depart the international pier in Cozumel for the Calica dock south of Playa del Carmen at 6am, 11am, 4pm, and 8:30pm Monday-Saturday and at 8am and 8pm on Sunday. Returning ferries leave Calica at 4am, 8am, 1:30pm, and 6pm Monday; 1:30 and 6pm Tuesday and Friday; 8am, 1:30pm, and 6pm Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday; and 6am and 6pm on Sunday. The trip takes about an hour and 15 minutes and costs US$60 for a passenger car including driver, and US$5.50 per additional passenger. Reservations are available online, by phone, or at the pier, and are strongly recommended.
GETTING AROUND
In town, you can easily walk anywhere you like. However, the powerful taxi union has succeeded in quashing any and all efforts to start public bus service out of town and around the island. It is a shame, really, since it would be so easy and convenient to have a fleet of buses making loops around the island, or even just up and down the western shore. Until that changes (don’t hold your breath), you’ll need a car, moped, or bike to explore the rest of the island on your own.
Bicycle
A bike can be handy for getting to beach clubs and snorkel sites outside of town. Traffic on Avenida Rafael Melgar can be heavy south of town, but once clear of that, the roadway is relatively unhurried. Rentadora Isis (Av. 5 Norte btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 987/872-3367, www.rentadoraisis.com.mx, 8am-6:30pm daily) rents bikes—including helmet and lock—for US$10 per day.
Taxi
Taxis are everywhere—you can easily flag one down on Avenida Rafael Melgar, near the main passenger pier, and around the plaza. If you want to be picked up at a specific place and time, call the taxi union office (Calle 2 btwn Avs. 5 and 10, tel. 987/872-0041, 24 hours daily). Cabs typically charge US$3.25 around town and US$5.75 from the center to the airport, for up to four people. For hotels and beach clubs on the western shore south of town, you’ll pay US$5 to US$20, depending on the distance. Fares to the east side are a bit more, US$12.50-30, while San Gervasio and Punta Sur cost US$50-60. A trip around the island runs US$85. Most taxi stands have the current fares prominently displayed; always agree on a price before getting into a taxi.
Passenger ferries from Playa del Carmen arrive at Cozumel’s sleek new ferry dock, located opposite the central plaza.
© LIZA PRADO
Car and Moped Rental
Renting a car is a nice way to get out of downtown and see the rest of the island. It is virtually impossible to get lost, and you can visit all the main spots in a day or two.
If you do decide to rent some wheels, go to the agency yourself—do not allow one of the friendly guys at the pier to lead you there. They are comisionistas, freelancers who earn hefty commissions for bringing tourists to particular shops, which then pass the cost on to you. Shop owners go along begrudgingly; if they decline the “service,” the same freelancers will actively steer future tourists away from the shop, saying it’s closed, burned down, fresh out of cars—you get the idea.
Excluding commissions, rental cars in Cozumel start at around US$40-50 for a compact car, including insurance and taxes. Mopeds rent for around US$25 per day. Be aware that scooters account for the majority of accidents here, as speed bumps, potholes, and windy conditions can upend even experienced drivers; having a second person on the back is even more dangerous. Also remember that unpaved roads are not covered by most rental car insurance plans.
Rentadora Isis (Av. 5 Norte btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 987/872-3367, www.rentadoraisis.com.mx, 8am-6:30pm daily) consistently has the island’s best rates, and friendly service to boot; their Internet specials often are good, too. Another good local option is Sol y Mar (Calle 2 near Av. 5 Norte, tel. 987/869-0545, 8am-7pm daily).
International companies have newer fleets, and often have good rates if you book online. Try Thrifty (Av. Juárez at Av. 10 Norte, tel. 987/869-8090; at airport 987/869-2957; www.thrifty.com), Avis (Av. Juárez at Av. 5 Norte, tel. 987/872-1923; at airport 987/872-0099; www.avis.com), or Hertz (Av. Juárez at Av. 5 Norte, tel. 999/911-8040; at airport 987/869-8184; www.hertz.com).
Motorcycle Rental
To explore the island in style, head to Eaglerider (Palmar Plaza, Carr. Costera Sur Km. 3.8, U.S. toll-free tel. 888/879-7873, tel. 987/857-0106, www.eaglerider.com, US$159-199/day), which rents several types of Harley-Davidson motorcycles, from Sportsters to Road Kings and Electra Glides.
Highways and Road Conditions
The distance around the island—on paved roads, and including the northwestern arm that dead-ends after Cozumel Country Club—is approximately 93 kilometers (58 miles). Driving without stopping, it takes a little under two hours to circumnavigate the island. If doing this, consider going counterclockwise so there’s nothing between your vehicle and the ocean, especially on the east side. Biking around the island is possible but challenging, given the strong crosswinds.
Cozumel has three PEMEX gas stations (7am-midnight daily). Two are in town on Avenida Benito Juárez (at Avs. Pedro Joaquin Coldwell and 75), and the third is four kilometers (2.5 miles) south of town on the Carretera Costera Sur, across from Puerta Maya, the main cruise ship pier.
Note: Most streets are one-way in town; if you’re driving, be aware that avenidas (avenues) run north-south and have the right-of-way over calles (streets), which run east-west. Once you leave town, there is a single road that circles the entire island.
