Cancún may be the name everyone recognizes, but for many people—especially repeat visitors—the best of Mexico’s Caribbean coast is the Riviera Maya. Stretching more than 130 kilometers (81 miles) south from Cancún to Tulum, the Riviera Maya is home to fast-growing cities like Playa del Carmen, low-key towns like Puerto Morelos, and tiny beachfront settlements like Tankah Tres. It boasts megaresorts and tiny bed-and-breakfasts, and is flanked by the world’s longest underground river on one side and the world’s second-longest coral reef on the other. And, of course, the Riviera Maya has the same spectacular beaches Cancún is famous for.
© LIZA PRADO
Puerto Morelos’s Coral Reef: Skip the tourist-trap snorkeling trips in Cancún and Playa del Carmen and go snorkeling where the reef is still healthy, the water uncrowded, and the price unbeatable. Book a tour with a local dive shop or the long-operating fisherman’s cooperative (page 140).
Playa del Carmen’s Quinta Avenida: Ever growing yet still walkable, Playa’s 5th Avenue has block after block of tempting restaurants, hipster boutiques, and lively bars. The ferry and bus terminals are at the busy southern end, while the northern end is cooler and quieter, with a distinctive European flair (page 149).
Playa del Carmen’s Beaches and Beach Clubs: Playa’s beaches are among the Riviera Maya’s most beautiful, and its beach clubs make them some of the most enjoyable, too. Of Playa’s many great beaches, Playa Tukán takes the cake: ankle deep white sand, mild surf, two beach clubs (one mellow, one hoppin’), yet plenty of open sand for those who just want to lay out a towel and relax (page 149).
Xcaret: The Riviera Maya’s elaborate ecoparks are a hit with parents looking for a safe, active, friendly place to take the kids. Xcaret is the most ambitious of them all, with tubing and snorkeling, an aquarium and animal enclosures, an orchid greenhouse, and an end-of-the-day extravaganza (page 153).
Laguna Yal-Ku: A long elbow of water fed by freshwater cenotes and flowing into the sea, this Akumal-area lagoon is a snorkeler favorite for its colorful fish and jumble of underwater rocks Curious bronze statues dot the rocky shore, and parking and changing areas make visiting here a cinch (page 174).
Playa Xcacel: Just off the highway down an easy-to-miss sand road, this glorious stretch of white-sand beach has nary a beach bed or banana boat in sight. The secret? It’s a sea-turtle nesting area protected from development—at least for now (page 182).
There’s plenty to see and do, much of it do-it-yourself: go snorkeling in freshwater cenotes and lagoons, help release newly hatched sea turtles into the sea, explore little-visited Maya ruins, or spend the day at a family-friendly ecopark. For party hounds, Cancún still has a lock on over-the-top nightspots, though Playa del Carmen now has several of its own, and there are plenty of lounge bars, beach clubs, and resort nightclubs where visitors can kick back or cut loose.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
You’ll probably want to pick a home base (or two) for your time here and make day trips from there. Playa del Carmen is the area’s only real city, with all the expected urban amenities, including nightlife. (It’s also the gateway to Isla Cozumel.) Puerto Morelos and Akumal are smaller but still have a decent selection of hotels and restaurants. If isolation is more important than convenience, the Riviera Maya has some secret getaways, like Xpu-Há and Tankah Tres. If you’ve got a week or more, consider spending half your time in the northern section—around Playa del Carmen, for example—and then move farther south, to enjoy Akumal, Tankah Tres, and even Tulum.
A rental car isn’t absolutely necessary but will certainly make exploring the Riviera Maya a lot easier. Cheap public shuttles zip up and down the coast, but they only stop along the highway, which in most places is about a kilometer (0.6 mile) from the ocean. That leaves you to make the hot dusty walk up and down the access roads, especially in more rural areas where taxis are uncommon.
Puerto Morelos has largely escaped the mega-development that has swept up and down the Riviera Maya, despite being squeezed between the booming cities of Cancún and Playa del Carmen. It remains, for the most part, a quiet seaside town. Yes, the town fills up with tourists in the high season—and more and more condos and resorts are cropping up—but it is still a place where a substantial part of the local population lives by fishing, where life revolves around the central plaza, and where kids and dogs romp in the streets.
The beach in Puerto Morelos has improved significantly in the last few years, and more and more travelers are spending lazy afternoons in the sun and sand. But Puerto Morelos is best known for the reef system just offshore. Local residents fought tirelessly (and successfully) to have a large section in front of town designated a national reserve, and as a result the snorkeling and diving are superb. A town cooperative and several local dive shops offer tours of various sorts, most highly recommended and quite affordable. Puerto Morelos also is gaining popularity as a destination for yoga and meditation groups—no surprise given its serene atmosphere—and a growing number of hotels and resorts cater to that market.
Be aware that the low season here is very low, and many businesses close in May, September, and/or October.
SIGHTS AND BEACHES
Playa Principal
Puerto Morelos improved its beachfront area considerably, with leafy arbors and palm-shaded benches. The beach itself, however, lacks the creamy white sand found elsewhere in the Riviera Maya, and the same regulations that protect the town’s famous coral reef also prevent the removal of sea grass in the shallow areas. Fishing boats also moor on the beach, though there’s still plenty of room to lay out a towel. A good beach option is Club de Playa Los Pelícanos (central plaza, 9am-3pm Mon.-Sat.), which has lounge chairs, umbrellas, and kayaks. It’s located off one corner of the main plaza, in front of the restaurant of the same name.
Puerto Morelos’s main pier is the jumping-off place for affordable and rewarding snorkeling trips to the nearby reef.
© LIZA PRADO
Coral Reef
Puerto Morelos’s top attraction is snorkeling on the reef. Directly in front of the village, around 500 meters (0.3 mile) offshore, the reef here takes on gargantuan dimensions—up to 30 meters (99 feet) wide. Winding passages and large caverns alive with fish and sea flora make for great exploring. And since it’s a marine reserve, and fishing and motor traffic are limited, the reef is more pristine here than almost any place along the Riviera. A local cooperative (central plaza, Av. Rafaél Melgar s/n, no phone, 9am-3pm Mon.-Sat., US$25 pp for 2 hours) offers guided tours of the reef, with boats leaving every 30 minutes—or sooner, if there are four snorkelers—from the municipal pier.
The Central Plaza
Puerto Morelos’s peaceful central plaza has always been a highlight of the town, but a face-lift has made it even more appealing. New paint, better landscaping, and an improved play structure for kids make it a great place to while away the early evening hours, especially for families. Locals and visitors alike mingle on shaded benches and in the bleachers facing the basketball court. Many of Puerto Morelos’s best restaurants face the plaza or are just a block away, so you’re sure to pass by more than once. On Sunday, a small tianguis (flea market) is held here, and you can have fun browsing through someone else’s old treasures.
Marked by an enormous mustard-yellow arch on Highway 307, the “Cenote Route” is one of the newest developments along the Riviera Maya, and a sign, for better or worse, that the megaresorts are finally starting to appreciate cenotes. The route is simply a paved road, which begins just south of Puerto Morelos and extends nearly 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) into the scrub forest, passing several cenotes along the way. The most popular stops, at least for tour groups, are cenotes like Boca del Puma and Selvática, which also have ATV tours, ziplines, paintball—you get the picture. But the route also has some true gems: gorgeous and remote cenotes, undeveloped and all but overlooked by the package tours, and well worth the drive to reach them.
Independent travelers will particularly enjoy Siete Bocas (Carr. Pto. Morelos-Vallarta Km. 16, no phone, 8am-4pm daily, US$10 including life vest), so named for its seven openings (or “mouths”). Three openings have steep stairways leading straight into the cool, clear water; the other four allow sunlight into the underground chamber, lighting up the water dramatically, especially around midday. Inside, you can swim or float through the cave, with its spectacular stalagmites and stalactites, often with no one else around (BYO snorkel gear). Most visitors stay only a short time, but camping is permitted on-site (US$16 pp), just a few meters from the cenote.
Just down the road from Siete Bocas is Lucerno Verde (Carr. Pto. Morelos-Vallarta Km. 17, cell. tel. 998/224-3731, 8am-5pm daily, US$5 including life vest), an open-air cenote surrounded by huge tropical trees. Completely different from its neighbor but no less dramatic, Lucerno Verde is like an enormous swimming hole with clear turquoise water and seemingly no bottom. There’s a zipline as well as a thick safety line stretching across the cenote. Look for the freshwater turtles that make their home here. Camping is permitted here, too (US$10 pp).
Croco Cun Zoo
A charming little tropical petting zoo, Croco Cun Zoo (Hwy. 307, tel. 998/850-3719, www.crococunzoo.com, 9am-5pm daily, US$26 adult, US$16 child 6-12, free 5 and under) is located five kilometers (3.1 miles) north of the Puerto Morelos turnoff. Seventy-five-minute guided tours, offered in English or Spanish, bring visitors up close and personal to all sorts of local creatures. You can feed spider monkeys, walk through a crocodile enclosure, and hold boas, iguanas, and baby crocs. Well managed and reasonably affordable, Croco Cun is a hit for youngsters and adults alike.
Ya’ax Ché Jardín Botánico
Just south of the Puerto Morelos turnoff, a sprawling peaceful botanical garden, Ya’ax Ché Jardín Botánico (Hwy. 307 Km. 320, tel. 998/206-9233, www.ecosur.mx, 8am-4pm daily Nov.-Apr., 9am-5pm daily May-Oct., US$8.50 adult, US$4.25 child), has three kilometers (1.9 miles) of trails winding through diverse habitat, from tropical forest to mangrove swamp. In addition to hundreds of marked plants, there are remains of a Maya ruin and a re-creation of a modern Maya home. Monkeys can be sometimes spotted in the afternoon. Wear long sleeves and pants, and plenty of bug repellent.
SHOPPING
A so-called Mayan Jungle Market (Calle 2, Zona Urbana, tel. 998/208-9148, 9:30am-2pm Sun., Dec.-Easter only) is held at Casa Cacahuate bed-and-breakfast in the residential part of Puerto Morelos, on the other side of the highway. This cheerful family-friendly event is facilitated by the nonprofit founded by the bed-and-breakfast’s owners. The market includes a variety of handicrafts produced by local women, as well as tasty food and drink. A traditional Maya dance is held at 11:30am.
The artisan’s market of Hunab Kú (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, 9am-8pm daily) may be your best bet for finding handicrafts in Puerto Morelos. Here you’ll find a bunch of stands with colorful blankets, ceramics, hammocks, masks, jipi hats, shell art—pretty much anything you’ll see sold up and down the coast.
Cenotes: Then and Now
One of the Yucatán Peninsula’s most intriguing features is its cenotes, freshwater sinkholes, sometimes hundreds of meters deep and filled with crystalline freshwater that is fed by underground rivers. Cenotes owe their formation to the massive meteorite that hit the Yucatán Peninsula 65 million years ago. The impact shattered the peninsula’s thick limestone cap like a stone hitting a car windshield, and in the millions of years that followed, rainwater seeped into the cracks, carving huge underground caverns and hundreds of kilometers of channels out of the highly soluble limestone. Cenotes are former caverns whose roofs collapsed—cave-ins are extremely rare today, however—and together the channels form the world’s longest underground river system.
Cenotes were sacred to Maya, who relied on them for water and viewed them as apertures to the underworld. (The name is derived from the Yucatec Maya word dz’onot.) Sacrificial victims were sometimes thrown into their eerie depths, along with finely worked stone and clay items, and archaeologists have learned a great deal about early Maya rituals by dredging cenotes near archaeological sites, most notably Chichén Itzá. Indeed, the name Chichén Itzá means Well of the Itzá, undoubtedly a reference to the ancient city’s dramatic cenote.
Today the peninsula’s cenotes attract worshippers of a different sort: snorkelers and scuba divers. The unbelievably clear water—100-meter (328-foot) visibility in places—is complemented by what other inland and underground diving environments (like lakes and flooded mines) lack: stunning stalactites and stalagmites. During early ice ages, water drained from the cenotes, giving time for the slow-growing features to form. When the climate warmed, the cenotes filled with water once again, their depths now forested with dramatic stone spires, pillars, and columns.
Divers with open-water certification can dive in the cenotes. Though “full-cave” diving requires advanced training, most cenote tours are actually “cavern” dives, meaning you are always within 40 meters (130 feet) of an air pocket. It’s a good idea to take some open-water dives before your first cenote tour—buoyancy control is especially important in cenotes, and you’ll be contending with different weights and finning technique.
One of the best bookstores on the peninsula, Alma Libre Bookstore (central plaza, tel. 998/251-1206, www.almalibrebooks.com, 10:30am-1:30pm and 3pm-8pm daily, closed June to mid-Nov.) has a whopping 20,000 titles, new and used, ranging from “beach trash to Plato,” in the words of the friendly Canadian owners. There’s Maya culture, Mexican cooking, ecology, mysteries, guidebooks, maps, and more, and not just in English but Spanish, French, German, Dutch, Italian, and others. The store’s website is an outstanding resource for everything Puerto Morelos.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Snorkeling
Puerto Morelos is justly famous for its snorkeling, with a protected stretch of coral reef running very near shore. A local cooperative (central plaza, Av. Rafaél Melgar s/n, no phone, 9am-3pm Mon.-Sat.) offers excellent and affordable guided tours, visiting two spots on the reef for 45 minutes apiece, and using boats with sunshades. Prices are fixed: US$25 per person, including equipment, park fees, and a bottle of water. Boats leave every 30 minutes from the municipal pier; if there are fewer than three people, you’ll have to wait up to 30 minutes (but no more) for additional passengers to come. Sign up at the cooperative’s kiosk at the northeast corner of the plaza; late morning is the best time to go, as the sun is high but the afternoon winds haven’t started. The dive shops in town also offer snorkeling tours to the town reef and beyond, for similar prices.
Caution: Do not swim to the reef from anywhere along the beach. Although it’s close enough for strong swimmers to reach, boats use the channel between the reef and the shore, and tourists have been struck and killed in the past.
Scuba Diving
Puerto Morelos has over two dozen dive sites within a 15-minute boat ride, virtually all in protected marine reserve waters. Add to that the nearby cenotes, plus night and wreck diving, and divers have plenty to keep them happy and interested. The dive shops in town—there were three at last count—tend to have small groups and offer a full range of fun dives and certification courses. Prices are fairly uniform—US$60-80 for one tank, US$75-100 for two tanks, and US$400 for open-water certification. Be sure to ask about any extra fees, like equipment, taxes, and marine park fee. Shop hours are irregular, and reservations are strongly recommended.
Dive In Puerto Morelos (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez 14, tel. 998/206-9084, www.diveinpuertomorelos.com) is run by a friendly American dive instructor who emphasizes safety and small groups.
Wet Set Water Adventures (Hotel Ojo de Agua, Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, tel. 998/871-0198, www.wetset.com, 8am-2pm daily) is one of the longest-running dive shops around, offering top-to-bottom service and extensive area expertise.
Aquanauts Dive Adventures (Hacienda Morelos, Av. Rafael Melgar 5, tel. 998/206-9365 or 984/138-8463, www.aquanautsdiveadventures.com) is another long-operating dive shop.
Sportfishing
The dive shops in Puerto Morelos also offer fishing trips, whether trolling for barracuda or marlin, or dropping a line for “dinner fish” like grouper or snapper. Wet Set Water Adventures (Hotel Ojo de Agua, Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, tel. 998/871-0198, www.wetset.com) has been taking visitors fishing for many years; a local cooperative (central plaza, Av. Rafaél Melgar s/n, no phone, 9am-3pm Mon.-Sat.) does the same. Both charge around US$50-60 per hour.
Tours
ECAB Explorer (cell. tel. 998/123-5062, www.ecabexplorer.com) is a small but reliable tour operator run by a longtime Puerto Morelos resident (and former purveyor of fine shrimp tacos). Tours include not only the main destinations—Cobá, Ek’ Balam, Sian Ka’an, etc.—but also interesting add-ons, from bird-watching to visits with a local family. Groups are small and rates reasonable considering the tours’ length and depth: around US$70-100 adult, with discounts for children and groups. Check the website for scheduled outings or to arrange a private tour.
Spas
The Ixchel Jungle Spa (Casa Cacahuate, Calle 2, Zona Urbana, tel. 998/208-9148, www.mayaecho.com, 10am-3:30pm Tues.-Sat., Sun. by appointment only) is one of several community projects undertaken by Maya Echo, a nonprofit founded by the owners of Casa Cacahuate B&B. Local women provide professional massage and traditional Maya treatments for far less than at ordinary spas. Treat yourself to one of various available treatments, from a four-handed full-body massage (US$80, 1 hour) to a chocolate body wrap and massage (US$60, 1 hour). Group massage or temascal (traditional Maya sweat lodge) also can be arranged with advance notice. A cab ride from Puerto Morelos’s central plaza runs about US$5.
Martina’s Oasis Spa (Calle Rojo Gómez 7, tel. 998/213-4595, www.martinasoasis.com, by appointment only) draws on the considerable skills of its owner, Martina, a licensed massage therapist with an uncanny ability to zero in on the precise source of discomfort and know just how to alleviate it. Prices are reasonable: US$40-85 for facials, mani-pedis, etc., and US$65-165 for one- and two-hour massages, including Swedish, Thai, deep tissue, and hot stone, and in combination with other treatments. You can go to her spa or she can come to your hotel.
The Little Mexican Cooking School (Casa Caribe, Calle Rojo Gómez 768, tel. 998/251-8060, www.thelittlemexicancookingschool.com, 10am-3:30pm Tues.-Fri. and some Sat., US$110 pp, including complimentary recipe book and apron) offers a fun and unique introduction to Mexican cuisine. Smallish classes (12 maximum) begin with a light breakfast and a discussion of Mexican food and ingredients, followed by demonstrations and hands-on practice of 7-8 recipes, from pumpkin seed salsa to chicken mole. Class ends with a luncheon from the dishes you helped create. Cooking and lodging packages are available.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Under US$50
A 10-minute walk from the center, Hotel Edén (Av. Andrés Quintana Roo near Calle Lázaro Cardenas, tel. 998/871-0450, www.puertomoreloseden.com, US$47.50 studio with a/c and kitchenette) is rather more austere than its name might suggests, but is a fine budget option all the same. Spacious studios have cable TV, Wi-Fi, clean hot-water bathrooms, and small but well-equipped kitchenettes. Weekly (US$400) and monthly (US$850) rates are also available.
Casa Cacahuate (Calle 2, Zona Urbana, tel. 998/208-9148, www.mayaecho.com, US$30 s, US$50 d, breakfast included) is a bed-and-breakfast located in Puerto Morelos’s residential area on the inland side of the highway, offering a rare opportunity to experience the nontouristed side of the Riviera Maya. Homey even by bed-and-breakfast standards, the house has two tidy guest rooms upstairs and the personable owners below, with a large lush garden space. The owners maintain close ties with the community and host a popular crafts market and Jungle Spa on-site. The beach and central plaza are a bit of a hike—and that’s the main drawback to staying here—but taxis are plentiful and inexpensive.
US$50-100
Posada El Moro (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez near central plaza, tel. 998/871-0159, www.posadaelmoro.com, US$65 s/d, US$70-85 s/d with a/c and TV, US$95 suite with a/c, TV, and kitchenette) is a homey hotel with spacious units, most with polished cement floors and lots of natural light. There’s Wi-Fi throughout most of the hotel, plus a pleasant little pool surrounded by hammocks and lounge chairs toward the back. Continental breakfast is included in the rate, and weekly rates also are available.
Rancho Sak Ol (1 kilometer/0.6 mile south of the central plaza, tel. 998/871-0181, www.ranchosakol.com, US$89 s/d with a/c, US$99 s/d, US$139 suite, 2-night minimum) is a relaxing palapa hideaway located a 15-minute walk south of town. Rooms have hanging beds and private patios with hammocks. A buffet breakfast is included in the rate, and guests can use the well-stocked community kitchen. The beach here is just okay—very clean, with good snorkeling offshore, but boxed in by the cargo ferry on one side and a condo complex on the other. Still, there’s enough breathing room so as not to spoil Rancho Sak Ol’s quiet, isolated feel. The resort is for adults and teens only, except during the school holidays, when children over the age of three are welcome. The use of snorkel equipment and bicycles also is included in the rate.
US$100-200
A perfect place if you’re planning a longer stay, Abbey del Sol Two (Av. Niños Héroes s/n, tel. 998/871-0127, U.S. tel. 651/690-3937, www.abbeydelsol.com, US$60 s/d with a/c, US$105-155 apartments with a/c) offers nicely appointed units with king-size beds, balconies or private courtyards, and fully equipped kitchens (all except one). There’s a small pool in the leafy garden and a rooftop patio with palapa-shaded hammocks. Complimentary use of bicycles also is included. If it’s booked, check the website for availability in its other properties around town.
Villas Clarita (Av. Niños Héroes near Calle Benito Juárez, tel. 998/871-0042, Can. tel. 250/244-1754, www.villasclaritamexico.com, US$120-150 with a/c) has eight comfortable apartments that open onto two courtyards: One has a large pool with lots of lounge chairs and tables, the other has an open-air yoga studio and shady garden. Most of the apartments have a hacienda-like feel and feature heavy wood Mexican furnishings. (The better ones open onto the garden courtyard, though families may like having an apartment right next to the pool.) All have full kitchen, air-conditioning, cable TV, Wi-Fi, purified water, and even daily maid service. Breakfast is included in the rate, too.
Puerto Morelos is known for its yoga retreats and small hotels, like Posada El Moro near the center of town.
© LIZA PRADO
Occupying a converted hacienda-style mansion, Casa Caribe (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez near Calle Lázaro Cardenas, tel. 998/251-8060, U.S. tel. 512/410-8146, www.casacaribepuertomorelos.com, US$121.50 s/d with or without a/c) has a new owner and fresh new look and ambience. Four bright 2nd-floor rooms have whitewashed walls, colorful paintings, and large glass doors opening onto private ocean-view terraces. They don’t have air-conditioning, but between the ceiling fan and ocean breezes, you really don’t miss it. (A fifth room on the ground floor does have air-conditioning.) Casa Caribe is home to The Little Mexican Cooking School, so naturally the rates include a full delicious breakfast, served in the hotel’s interior patio-garden. Hotel/cooking class packages can be arranged; beach gear is available free of charge.
Club Marviya (Av. Niños Héroes near Calle Lázaro Cardenas, tel. 998/871-0049, Can. tel. 450/492-9094, www.marviya.com, US$775 per week) is a quiet hotel with tidy one-bedroom apartments, each decorated slightly differently but all with air-conditioning, kitchenettes, and cable TV. They open onto a leafy courtyard with a nice pool—a welcome feature on a hot day. Look for deep discounts in the off-season, too.
On the main beach, Hotel Hacienda Morelos (Av. Rafaél Melgar 5, tel. 998/871-0448, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/227-6366, www.haciendamorelos.com, US$85 s/d with a/c) is a big rambling hotel with spacious rooms, most with ocean views, good beds, tile floors, and quiet air-conditioning. There’s also a small pool overlooking the beach. Decor is pretty minimal and the whole place is rather dated, but the views, location, and the rate make this an attractive option. A longtime dive shop is on-site, which is convenient if you plan to dive a lot.
Over US$200
Dreams Riviera Cancún Resort and Spa (Hwy. 307 Km. 324, tel. 998/872-9200, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/237-3267, www.dreamsresorts.com, US$216-242 s with a/c, US$332-383 d with a/c, US$465-1,620 suite) is a bustling all-inclusive resort north of downtown Puerto Morelos. Aesthetically, it has a South Pacific feel with airy rooms that feature tropical woods and bamboo accents. The amenities are high-end and luxurious. Outside there are lots of pools and a long wide beach with plenty of places to relax (no need to get up at 6am to save a spot!). Nine restaurants round out the resort nicely, providing enough options to keep most people happy during their stay.
Located south of town, Hotel Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort (Blvd. El Cid Unidad 15, tel. 998/872-8999, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/733-7308, www.elcid.com, US$181 s with a/c, US$232 d with a/c, US$206-306 suite, US$268-350 one-bedroom apartment) is Puerto Morelos’s first all-inclusive resort—a milestone that didn’t please everyone in this tightly knit town. The resort gets high marks from families though, with a kids club, water-slide, and manageable size, though the beach is smallish and sometimes littered with coral fragments. There is a full-service spa on-site—including beachfront massage tables—as well as a great gym with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the Caribbean. Rooms have modern, tasteful decor and lots of natural light; larger units have two full bathrooms, kitchen, and en suite hot tubs.
The adults-only Excellence Riviera Maya (Hwy. 307 Km. 324, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/540-2585, www.excellence-resorts.com, US$257-299 s with a/c, US$342-426 d with a/c) is a rambling resort located north of town. The size can be overwhelming, but it gets points for the number of options it provides: eight restaurants, six pools, an expansive beach area, a sports center, and an entertainment complex. The rooms themselves are modern and comfortable, with king-size beds, Jacuzzis, and private patios or balconies. This is a great choice if you’re traveling with a group—given the number of options here, there’s something for almost everyone.
FOOD
Who knows how it happened, but modest little Puerto Morelos is home to an amazing array of restaurants and eateries, from cheerful holes-in-the-wall to international cuisine that draws diners all the way from Cancún and Playa del Carmen.
Mexican and Seafood
Doña Triny’s (central plaza, no phone, 8am-11pm daily, US$4-9) serves home-style Mexican and Yucatecan standards like enchiladas, huaraches, and chiles rellenos, plus some adopted dishes like stuffed portobello mushrooms; most dishes can be adjusted for vegetarians on request, too.
Los Pelícanos (central plaza, tel. 998/871-0014, 8am-11pm daily, US$7-20) has a wraparound patio overlooking the plaza and the ocean—perfect for an afternoon beer or margarita. Food here can be a bit uneven, but with so many anglers in town, it’s hard to go wrong with shrimp, octopus, or fish, all served fresh in a half dozen different ways.
Asian
David Lau’s Place (central plaza, tel. 998/251-2531, www.davidlaus.com, 3pm-11pm Tues.-Sat., 1pm-9pm Sun., US$8-15) was opened by the chef of the much-loved but now-closed Puerto Morelos restaurant Hola Asia and also serves terrific Asian-inspired dishes, plus a handful of select Italian dishes. Meals are made to order and are served in a colorful dining room; portions tend toward enormous.
Other Specialties
John Gray’s Kitchen (Av. Niños Héroes s/n, tel. 998/871-0665, 2pm-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$12-30) is the mother restaurant of John Gray’s Place in Playa del Carmen, and without question it is the finest restaurant in Puerto Morelos. The menu changes every day, though a few perennial favorites are almost always available, like mac n’ cheese with jumbo shrimp and white truffle oil as well as pan-roasted duck breast with chipotle, honey, and tequila. Fine cuts of meat, inventive sauces, and fresh pastas and vegetables are a given. Occupying a boxy building two blocks from the plaza, the dining room is elegant and understated.
There’s great homemade pizza and pasta at Los Gauchos (Calle Tulum, cell. tel. 998/166-5879, www.losgauchosdelpuerto.com, 11am-11pm Wed.-Sun., US$5-15), but don’t leave without trying the empanadas: a classic Argentinean snack made of puffy, crispy fried dough stuffed with cheese or other goodies. At just US$1.50-2.50 apiece, a plate of five or six and a couple of sodas make a great cheap meal for two.
Groceries
Casa Martín (central plaza, 6:30am-10pm daily) has a fairly large selection of canned foods, pastas, snacks, and drinks; there’s also a small produce section near the back.
Every Wednesday, fruit, vegetable, and meat stands (Calle Tulum near Av. Javier Rojo Gómez, 7am-2pm) set up a half block from the central plaza. Prices are by the kilo.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Although this town sees a good number of tourists, the services remain somewhat sparse.
Emergency Services
Médica Puerto Morelos (Calle Ignacio López Rayón; tel. 998/251-1478 or 998/201-2456, 24 hours) is the small but well-equipped medical office of Dr. Víctor Ballestros, a young, serious Mexico City-trained surgeon and general practitioner. Look for signs leading to his office along the access road, near the highway. English is spoken.
Centro de Salud (no phone, 8am-2pm and 4pm-6pm daily) is south of the plaza, on an unmarked connector street between Avenidas Javier Rojo Gómez and Rafaél Melgar.
Farmacia San José Obrero (central plaza, Av. Javier Rojo Gómez, tel. 998/871-0053, 8am-2pm and 4pm-10pm daily) is a mom-and-pop pharmacy selling basic meds and toiletries.
Money
There is no bank in Puerto Morelos, but there are two ATMs—an HSBC one, in front of the grocery store, and a Santander ATM on the northwest corner of the central plaza.
Media and Communications
Play.net C@fé (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, no phone, 9am-10pm daily, US$1.75/hour) is located just off the central plaza. And like many Mexican towns, there’s free Wi-Fi (24 hours) in the central plaza.
Laundry
The bustling LavaPlus (Av. Niños Héroes s/n, cell. tel. 998/198-4850, 8am-7pm daily) charges US$1 per kilo (2.2 pounds). For service in five hours, the rate jumps to US$1.35 per kilo. Coin-operated machines are also available.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Puerto Morelos is almost exactly halfway between Cancún (36 kilometers/22 miles, 40 minutes driving) and Playa del Carmen (35 kilometers/21 miles, 35 minutes). The Cancún airport is closer, just 18 kilometers (11 miles, 20 minutes) north of Puerto Morelos. A rental car isn’t really necessary around town, but makes exploring the Riviera Maya beyond Puerto Morelos significantly easier.
Europcar (Calle Tulum near Av. Javier Rojo Gómez, tel. 998/206-9372, www.europcar.com.mx, 8am-6pm daily) has a small office just off the main plaza, making it the most convenient option for renting a car. Otherwise, Cancún airport has a large number of agencies, and you can often find excellent deals online.
ADO buses pass the Puerto Morelos turnoff on Highway 307 but do not enter town. The northbound stop is right at the turnoff, while the southbound bus stop is across the highway and a block south. Headed north to Cancún (US$2, 45 minutes) or south to Playa del Carmen (US$2, 35 minutes), second-class buses and combis (shared vans) pass every 10-15 minutes 5:30am-10pm daily, and less frequently throughout the night. A handful continue to Tulum, but it may be quicker to go to Playa and transfer. Buses to the Cancún airport (US$5.50, 25 minutes) pass roughly every 30-60 minutes 7:55am-8:45pm daily. Buy your ticket a day in advance, as buses often fill in Playa del Carmen.
Taxi
Taxis line up day and night at the taxi stand on the northwest corner of the central plaza. Prices are fixed and prominently displayed on a signboard at the taxi stand. A ride to the highway costs around US$2.
PUNTA BETE AND PLAYA XCALACOCO
It used to be that the only way to find Punta Bete and its main beach, Playa Xcalacoco, was to look for the big Cristal water plant. That’s still the best landmark, but a flurry of new construction, and renovation of existing locations, has prompted hoteliers to finally add signs along the highway as well. The beach here is decent—the sand is clean but coarse, and the shoreline rocky in places—but the snorkeling is good, and the isolation has always been a big plus. It’s still a quiet place, but all the new development—including a huge condo complex—may mark a new chapter for this long-overlooked stretch of beach.
Accommodations
Hotel Petit Lafitte (Hwy. 307 Km. 296, tel. 984/877-4000, www.petitlafitte.com, US$162-237 s with a/c, US$184-263 d with a/c, US$189-307 s bungalow with a/c, US$219-307 d bungalow with a/c) offers the comfort of a full-scale hotel on this isolated stretch of beach, including a large pool, plenty of lounge space, and a well-maintained beach area with palapas and hammocks. Accommodations are either in the main building, where all the rooms have at least partial ocean views, or in spacious beachfront bungalows. All accommodations have one or two beds, cable TV, air-conditioning, minibar, and Wi-Fi. Rates include a full breakfast and dinner.
Owned by a Mexican-Swiss couple, Coco’s Cabañas (Hwy. 307 Km. 296, tel. 998/874-7056, www.cocoscabanas.com, US$65-95 s/d with a/c, US$105 suite) has a handful of charming palapa-roofed bungalows on a small garden plot. The cabañas are comfortable and attractive, with large paintings and artful stonework, plus patios with hammocks. There’s a heart-shaped pool next to the open-air restaurant and bar, and the beach is just 30 meters (100 feet) away. Breakfast is included in the rate.
Food
Coco’s Cabañas (Hwy. 307 Km. 296, tel. 998/874-7056, www.cocoscabanas.com, 8:30am-8pm daily, US$6-18) has a small outdoor bar and restaurant that specializes in wood-oven pizzas, though there are lots of seafood dishes as well. It’s a bit pricey for the location, but then again you don’t often see prosciutto, arugula, and Brie pizza around here.
Getting There and Around
From the highway, follow the access road two kilometers (1.2 miles) until it forks at the Tides Riviera Maya resort. Bear left to reach the listed hotels and beach.
There is no taxi stand in this tiny community; when guests need one, hotels call cabs from Playa del Carmen or Puerto Morelos. A ride to the airport costs around US$45, to Playa del Carmen US$10.
Playa del Carmen (or Playa for short) has long been a favorite among travelers looking for an alternative to Cancún, a place where boutique hotels and lounge bars outnumber glitzy high-rises and all-night clubs. There also are more opportunities for tourists and locals to interact in Playa, and it’s easier to find “authentic” Mexican outlets, especially compared to Cancún’s Zona Hotelera. And while Cancún is an American playground, Playa attracts mostly Europeans, especially Italians.
But Playa is no longer the small seaside town many remember. Its population has exploded in recent years, with tourist and residential development stretching farther and farther up the coast every year. The main tourist strip, Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue) is still mostly pedestrian, but walking from end to end is no longer the casual jaunt it once was; a bike path along 10 Avenida is a smart and welcome addition. And while lounge bars and beach clubs are still the mainstay of Playa’s nightlife, the opening of Coco Bongo Playa, an offshoot of the famous Cancún nightclub, has fanned fears of an impending “Cancunification” of Playa del Carmen.
Playa still has plenty of small hotels, cool bars, offbeat shops, and funky charm, and remains a genuine alternative to Cancún. It’s got stellar beaches, and the atmosphere remains decidedly mellow, even with all the changes. Playa’s location also makes it a convenient base from which to explore the rest of the Riviera Maya and Yucatán Peninsula, whether snorkeling in cenotes, diving on Isla Cozumel, or visiting inland Maya ruins.
SIGHTS AND BEACHES
Quinta Avenida
Playa’s main pedestrian and commercial drag is Quinta Avenida, or 5th Avenue, which stretches more than 20 blocks from the ferry dock northward. Pronounced KEEN-ta av-en-EE-da, you may see it written as 5 Avenida or 5a Avenida, which is akin to “5th” in English. The southern section, especially near the ferry dock, is packed with typical tourist traps: souvenir shops, chain restaurants, etc. North of Calle 10 or Calle 12, and even farther past Avenida Constituyentes, the atmosphere is somewhat cooler and mellower, with more bistros, coffee shops, and high-end boutiques. The north-south division is less stark than it used to be, with some nice spots opening in the former and plenty of kitsch in the latter. You’ll probably walk the length of Quinta Avenida once or twice, and everyone seems to find his or her favorite part. There are excellent beaches virtually the entire length.
Beaches and Beach Clubs
Playa del Carmen is blessed with gorgeous beaches stretching from the resort enclave of Playacar, south of town, all the way north past the last development. The sand is thick and white, and in places dozens of yards wide, with clear aquamarine water and mild surf. It’s a change from several years ago, when a series of large storms and shifting currents left many beach areas thin and rocky. Online forums are a good way to get the latest info, but for the time being, Playa’s playas are spectacular.
All along the beach are numerous beach clubs where, for a small fee or for simply ordering something from the menu, you can make use of the lounge chairs, umbrellas, restrooms, even swimming pools and changing rooms. If beach clubs aren’t your thing, there are several convenient beaches to lay out your own towel and umbrella.
BEACH CLUBS
Playa Tukán (end of Calle 28) has two popular beach clubs. Mamita’s Beach Club (end of Calle 28, tel. 984/803-2867, www.mamitasbeachclub.com, 8am-6pm daily) is one of Playa’s best-known beach clubs, with thumping music and a lively atmosphere. It’s the one place in Playa where topless sunbathing is permitted and common. Just down the beach is Kool (end of Calle 28, tel. 984/803-1961, www.koolbeachclub.com.mx, 8am-6pm daily), which is more laid-back and good for a slightly older crowd and families with young children. Both have food service, restrooms, changing areas and lockers, and similar prices: around US$2.50 apiece for chairs and umbrellas, US$15-25 for beach beds and large palapas; and US$5-15 for snacks and drinks. Both also have small swimming pools; it’s free at Kool, while Mamita’s asks for a US$12.50 per person minimum consumption.
Playa’s pedestrian-only Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue) has it all, from fine dining and boho shops to open-air bars and tourist traps.
© LIZA PRADO
Playa El Recodo is the little-used name for the stretch of sand stretching south of the pier at Avenue Constituyentes to Playa’s historic lighthouse. The northernmost section, adjacent to the pier, is used to moor fishing boats and is unusable for swimming and sunbathing, but the rest is gorgeous and benefits from relatively little foot traffic. Lido (btwn Calle 10 and 12, tel. 984/803-1090, 8am-5:30pm daily, minimum consumption US$12.50, chairs free, beach beds US$8) has cheery lime-green umbrellas and faces an equally smile-inducing beach. The food service here is surprisingly refined, unlike the Plain Jane fare served up at most beach clubs. Next door, Zenzi Bar (btwn Calle 10 and 12, 8am-2am daily, minimum consumption US$17 pp) is primarily a restaurant-bar known for its variety of live music, but also has umbrellas and beach beds for rent. Nearby are beach booths offering massages, snorkeling trips, catamaran rides, and more.
Playa El Faro, named for the large lighthouse (or faro) at one end, is a lovely beach that’s convenient to just about everywhere. Wicky’s Beach Club (at Calle 10, tel. 984/873-3541, www.wickysplayadelcarmen.com, 7am-mid-night daily, US$12.50 pp minimum consumption) is an upscale, welcoming spot with beach chairs, a shaded patio with chairs and tables, and a large indoor restaurant area. Food and drinks are excellent, though service can be aloof. Nearby operators can arrange snorkel tours, Jet Skis, and more. Alas, the very enticing swimming pool is for condo guests only.
Another day comes to an end at Playa Tukán.
© GARY CHANDLER
BEACHES
If beach clubs aren’t your thing, there are plenty of spots to claim your own patch of sand. The best are Playa Tukán (end of Calle 28) and Playa El Faro (btwn Calles 8 and 16); while both have beach clubs, they also boast long lovely stretches of open sand and are popular with independent travelers and locals. Note that Playa Tukán is popular with Europeans, and topless sunbathing is not uncommon. Another option, if you don’t mind the walk (or taxi or bike ride), is Coco Beach; located between Calles 38 and 46, it’s ideal for laying out on your towel, listening to the waves, and chilling out. And just north of there is Chunzubul Reef, one of Playa’s best spots for snorkeling.
Xcaret
Just five kilometers (3.1 miles) south of Playa, Xcaret (Hwy. 307 Km. 282, tel. 998/883-0470, www.xcaret.com.mx, 8:30am-9:30pm daily, US$79/39.50 adult/child, US$139/69.50 adult/child including transportation and buffet) is a mega-ecopark offering water activities like snorkeling in underground rivers and swimming with dolphins and sharks; up-close animal viewing areas including jaguar and puma islands, a butterfly pavilion, and an aquarium; a phenomenal folk art museum that’s brimming with artesanía from around Mexico; and spectacular shows, like a Maya ball game, regional dances, and music performances. Xcaret is thoroughly touristy and prepackaged, yes, but also surprisingly well done and a worthwhile day trip, especially for families. There are numerous packages and prices, including combo visits with sister parks Xplor and Xel-Há; be sure you know what you’re getting (and not getting) when you book. Discounts are available for booking online.
Aviario Xaman Ha
A short distance inside the Playacar entrance off 10 Avenida, the small bird sanctuary Aviario Xaman Ha (Paseo Xaman Ha s/n, tel. 984/873-0593, 9am-5pm daily, US$22 adult, child under 12 free) is home, or a stopover, for more than 60 species of tropical birds, including toucans, flamingos, cormorants, and parrots. Some birds are in enclosures, but many are not, and a stone path meanders through the leafy grounds. It’s a pleasant place to spend an hour, though the admission price is ridiculously inflated. If you do go, be sure to bring bug repellent.
Traditional Maya costumes and dancing are part of the end-of-the-day extravaganza at Xcaret.
© H.W. PRADO
ENTERTAINMENT
Playa del Carmen’s nightlife has long been dominated by bars and lounges, as if deliberately leaving the raucous clubs and discotheques to Cancún. While that’s still mostly the case, Playa is definitely getting rowdier, with several major nightclubs and the increasingly boisterous cluster of club-like bars at the corner of 1 Avenida and Calle 12. Note the large signs prohibiting open containers in the streets; although many bars are clustered together, finish your drink before heading to the next.
Lounges and Bars
With retro tables and armchairs, low beats, and even lower lights, Diablito Cha Cha Cha (1 Av. at Calle 12, tel. 984/803-4506, www.diablitochachacha.com, 7pm-3am daily) is certainly one of the most stylish of the bars in this up-and-coming area. Order anything under the sun from the bar, and munch on unlikely Mexican-Japanese fusion snacks and meals.
At sunset, the 2nd-floor patio at Hotel Deseo (5 Av. at Calle 12, tel. 984/879-3620, www.hoteldeseo.com, 5pm-2am daily) transforms into a sleek lounge, with DJs spinning urban beats and a reliable crowd of local and foreign hipsters. A candlelit stone stairway leads from the street to the open-air terrace, where a long swimming pool is surrounded by queen-size cushions and billowing curtains. There’s food service until midnight, and the pool-side bar stirs up creative cocktails.
One of Playa’s only gay clubs, Club 69 (off 5 Av. between Calles 4 and 6, tel. 984/876-9466, 9pm-4am daily) doesn’t get interesting until after 1am, and sometimes later. There are regular drag shows and exotic dancers, and, of course, music and dancing. Drinks are so-so and the place could use a good scrub, but it’s not bad considering Playa’s thin pickings for gay travelers. The entrance is easy to miss—look for the 7-Eleven mini-mart on the west side of Quinta Avenida, then follow the rainbow sign down an alley.
A Playa institution for nearly 30 years, the Blue Parrot (Calle 12 at the beach, tel. 984/206-3350, www.blueparrot.com, 8pm-2am daily, free before 10pm, US$8.50 after 10pm) has sand floors, swing bar seats, a candlelit palapa lounge, and a small dance floor, all within earshot of the crashing waves. DJs play everything from old-school rock to underground electronica; scantily clad fire dancers perform nightly at 11pm.
A cluster of small bars (5pm-midnight daily) on 5 Avenida between Calles 26 and 30 make it an area to wander over to after dinner. Among several worth checking out are La Fe, Rufino, Santa Remedio, the Brazilian-style La Choperia, and La Casa del Hábano, a cigar shop by day and cocktails and hookah joint at night.
Nightclubs
Coco Bongo Playa (Av. 10 at Calle 12, tel. 984/803-5939, www.cocobongo.com.mx, 10:30pm-4:30am Mon.-Sat., US$50-60 including open bar) is a satellite of the famous nightclub in Cancún. Like the original, Coco Bongo Playa features a slew of celebrity impersonations, from Kiss to Beyoncé, plus acrobats, light shows, and multiple DJs to keep everyone dancing. The space here is fairly small, but the crowds can be huge and boisterous—tons of fun, assuming you’re not claustrophobic. At last check, Tuesday was Ladies Night; check Facebook for current promos, and with your hotel concierge about VIP tickets and party-hopper tours; shows begin at 11:30pm.
There are two more clubs nearby, which either benefit from or are overshadowed by the crowds amassing outside Coco Bongo. Directly next door to Coco Bongo is another Cancún offshoot, Palazzo (Av. 10 at Calle 12, tel. 984/803-0730, www.palazzodisco.com, 10pm-5am daily, US$30-50), a sister club to The City and Palazzo Cancún in the Zona Hotelera. It offers a somewhat more traditional techno nightclub scene, while aiming to inject old-school glamour through its decor and image. Across the street, La Santera (Av. 10 at Calle 12, tel. 984/803-2856, http://lasantera.com, 10pm-3:30am daily, US$20-25) is going for an edgier ambience and has a host of “resident DJs.”
And, of course, you can always find a party at Señor Frog’s (ferry pier, tel. 984/803-3498, 9am-3am daily) and Carlos n’ Charlie’s (Paseo del Carmen, southern end of 5 Av., tel. 984/803-3498, 10am-1am daily), both near the Cozumel ferry pier. These bars are a fixture in Mexican beach towns and are famous for their yard-long drinks, dancing on the tables, and nonstop parties.
SHOPPING
Playa del Carmen offers some of the best shopping on the Riviera Maya, and Quinta Avenida is where it’s at.
Artesanía
There are numerous souvenir shops along Quinta Avenida, from small to gargantuan, open all day every day. For something more unique, try the following stores.
La Sirena (5 Av. at Calle 26, tel. 984/803-3422, lasirenaplayadelcarmen@hotmail.com, 9am-10pm daily) is a boutique specializing in Mexican folk art. Italian shop owner Patrizia personally selects the exceptional pieces—whimsical skeleton art, colonial statuettes of La Virgen de Guadalupe, tin-framed mirrors, bright shawls—and you’re sure to find something you can’t resist.
Jam-packed with high-end Mexican folk art, Pachamama (Calle Corazón near 5 Av., tel. 984/803-3355, 9am-11pm daily) is a sure thing if you’re willing to drop a load of pesos. Skeleton art and hipster clothes from Mexico City figure prominently.
Pineda Covalín (5 Av. between Calle 26 and 28, www.pinedacovalin.com, 10am-11pm daily) has gorgeous high-end accessories, including purses, scarves, and wallets, made from silk and other fabrics printed with traditional Mexican and indigenous images. This is the largest Pineda Covalín store in the Riviera Maya, with smaller displays in Cancún and many Mexican airports.
Opening onto a leafy courtyard, Galería de Arte (5 Av. near Calle 6, no phone, 10am-10pm daily) is a collection of about a dozen galleries featuring modern art paintings, sculptures, and wood carvings. Items are by no means cheap, but can be quite special.
For cigars, stop by Havana Cigar Co. (5 Av. btwn Calles 10 and 12, tel. 984/803-1047, 9am-11pm daily). Cuban and Mexican puros are sold individually (US$5-15) or by the box (US$55-450).
Shopping Centers
At the southern end of Quinta Avenida, Paseo del Carmen (10am-10pm daily) is a shady outdoor shopping center with high-end clothing boutiques, jewelry stores, art galleries, and restaurants. Its series of modern fountains make it an especially pleasant place to window-shop or enjoy a nice lunch after a morning at the beach. A large multi-story shopping center on Quinta Avenida just south of Avenida Constituyentes was near completion at the time of research.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Scuba Diving
Playa del Carmen has decent offshore diving—virtually all drift dives, thanks to prevailing currents—and relatively easy access to Cozumel and inland cenotes. It’s a logical base if you want a taste of all three, plus the convenience of being in a major town. However, if diving is the main reason you came, consider basing yourself on Cozumel itself, or closer to the cenotes, such as at Akumal or Tulum. This will save you the time, money, and effort of going back and forth.
Diving prices in Playa del Carmen are reasonable, and fairly uniform from shop to shop. Two-tank reef dives cost US$75-90, Cozumel trips run US$85-100, cenote trips are around US$120, and open-water certification courses run US$400-425. Gear is included in the courses but may be charged separately for fun dives (US$15-20/day). Most shops do not include the price of taking the ferry to Cozumel (US$24 round-trip), and additional fees, like marine park and cenote admissions, may also apply.
Tank-Ha Dive Center (Calle 10 btwn 5 and 10 Avs., tel. 984/873-0302, www.tankha.com, 8am-10pm daily) is one of the longest-operating shops in Playa and a PADI Gold Palm resort and instructor training facility.
Dive Mike (Calle 8 btwn 5 Av. and the beach, tel. 984/803-1228, www.divemike.com, 7am-9pm daily) is a very friendly, professional, and reasonably priced shop. Check out its excellent website for additional info and pictures.
Phantom Divers (1 Av. Norte at Calle 14, tel. 984/879-3988, www.phantomdivers.com, 8am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-7pm Sun.) is one of a handful of locally owned dive shops offering lower-than-average prices. Cash only.
Yucatek Divers (15 Av. btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 984/803-1363, www.yucatek-divers.com, 7:30am-5pm daily) is a longtime shop with instruction available in several languages. Notably, all fun dives are led by instructors.
Scuba Playa (Calle 10 btwn 1 and 5 Avs., tel. 984/803-3123, www.scubaplaya.com, 8am-8pm daily) specializes in small groups and offers a six-dive package that includes two tanks apiece in Cozumel, the cenotes, and the reef.
Snorkeling
In Playa itself it’s best to go snorkeling with a boat tour, since the snorkeling off the beach isn’t too rewarding. There are also numerous cenotes near Playa that make for unique snorkeling, including several you can visit on your own.
Most of Playa’s dive shops offer guided snorkeling tours to excellent sites. Ocean trips cost US$30-50, while cenote trips are US$50-75, all gear included. Be sure to clarify how many reefs or cenotes you’ll be visiting and for how long. A wetsuit is strongly recommended, even if it means paying extra to rent one. Cenotes can be quite cold, while sunburn is a serious concern in the open ocean; wetsuits protect against both, as well as against accidental scrapes and cuts.
Dani Sailing (Kool Beach Club, end of Calle 28, cell. tel. 984/155-2015, http://danisailing.com, 9am-5pm daily) offers fun catamaran trips with an hour spent sailing and another hour snorkeling. Or rent snorkel gear and a kayak or stand-up paddleboard (US$15-20/hour) and find a spot of your own. Instruction is available. Look for the small shop where Calle 28 hits the beach.
Sociedad Cooperativa Turística Playa del Carmen (Playa El Recodo, end of Calle 14, no tel., 7am-6pm daily) is a local fisherman’s cooperative offering snorkeling tours from a kiosk on the beach (US$30/50 pp for one/two sites).
Wind Sports
Kiteboarding, sailboarding, and sailing have grown in popularity along the Caribbean, a trickle-down effect from the world-famous wind belt on the Gulf coast northwest of here. You can catch at least some breeze almost any time of the year, but the strongest, most consistent winds blow November-March.
Ikarus (5 Av. and Calle 20, tel. 984/803-3490, www.kiteboardmexico.com, 9am-10pm daily) is a full-service kiteboarding retail shop and school. Classes are typically conducted at Isla Blanca, in the massive flat-water Chacmochuch Lagoon north of Cancún, which is ideal for kiting but nearly two hours by car or bus from Playa del Carmen. Transport from Cancún is included in the high season, and simple lodging is offered at Isla Blanca (US$10 pp tent, US$50 s/d). Private classes are US$95 per hour or US$450 for six hours, while groups are US$70 per hour per person (maximum 3 to a group) or US$350 for six hours. Equipment is included for students or can be rented separately (US$95/day). Classes are mainly held November-May, when the conditions are best.
Dani Sailing (Kool Beach Club, end of Calle 28, cell. tel. 984/155-2015, http://danisailing.com, 9am-5pm daily) offers catamaran rentals and tours, with or without snorkeling, as well as kiteboarding rentals and instruction. Prices vary.
Stand-Up Paddling and Kayaking
Stand Up Paddle Playa del Carmen (cell. tel. 984/168-0387, www.suppdc.com) in a one-man operation offering hour-long lessons for US$65 (US$50 pp for 2 people) at the beach nearest you, with an hour’s free rental afterward to practice your skills. There’s no fixed storefront so reservations are recommended; otherwise, look for SUP gear near the pier at Avenida Constituyentes or near Fusion beach bar (end of Calle 6). Rental gear is available (US$20/hour, US$65/day).
Do-it-all beach sports outfit Dani Sailing (Kool Beach Club, end of Calle 28, cell. tel. 984/155-2015, http://danisailing.com, 9am-5pm daily) rents kayaks (US$15/hour single, US$20/hour double) and stand-up paddleboards (US$20/hour). Hour-long instructional courses (US$20) are available for anyone new to “SUPing.”
Swimming with Dolphins
With swimming pens set up in the ocean, Delphinus Riviera Maya (Hwy. 307 Km. 282, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/335-3461, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/526-2230, www.delphinus.com.mx, US$109-499) is about as good as it gets for performing dolphins. There are various packages, from 30-minute group interactions to hour-long one-on-one encounters. Check the website for complete descriptions, photos, and a 15 percent discount for booking online. Prices are a bit higher at Delphinus Riviera Maya, mainly because round-trip transportation is included. Ticket prices also include a locker, towel, and goggles.
Sportfishing
Playa de Carmen has excellent sportfishing and bottom fishing, with plentiful wahoo, dorado, mackerel, snapper, barracuda, and—especially April-June—sailfish and marlin. Trips depend mostly on the size and power of the boat that’s used, but a four- to five-hour trip for 1-6 people usually costs US$200-250, including tackle and drinks. Many dive shops offer tours, as does Sociedad Cooperativa Turística Playa del Carmen (Playa El Recodo, end of Calle 14, no tel., 7am-6pm daily).
Golf
The Golf Club at Playacar (Paseo Xaman-Há opposite Hotel Viva Azteca, tel. 998/193-2010, www.palace-resorts.com, 6am-sundown daily) is a challenging 7,144-yard championship course designed by Robert Van Hagge and located in Playacar, the upscale hotel and residential development south of Playa del Carmen proper. Greens fees are US$180 per adult, US$120 after 2pm, and US$80 child under 17 (accompanied by adult), including cart, snacks, and drinks; free hotel pickup is included for full-price rounds. Reserve at least a day in advance November-January.
Skydiving
Gleaming white beaches and brilliant turquoise seas make the Riviera Maya a spectacular place for skydiving. If you’re up for it, Sky Dive Playa (Plaza Marina, just south of the ferry dock, tel. 984/873-0192, www.skydive.com.mx, 9am-4pm Mon.-Sat.) has been throwing travelers out of planes at 10,000 feet since 1996. You freefall for 4,500 feet—about 45 seconds—then the chute opens for a seven- to eight-minute ride down to a soft landing on the beach. Tandem dives (you and an instructor, US$250) are scheduled every hour; walk-ups are accepted, but reservations are highly recommended. For an additional US$150, cameramen also can be booked to freefall alongside you to record your jump.
Tours
Alltournative (Hwy. 307 Km 287, tel. 984/803-9999, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/466-2848, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/437-4990, toll-free Canada and other countries tel. 877/432-1569, www.alltournative.com, 9am-7pm daily, US$119-129 adult, US$79-99 child under 12) offers a variety of full-day conservation-minded tours, including a combination of activities like canoeing, ziplines, off-road bicycling, caving, and snorkeling, plus visits to the Tulum or Cobá archaeological zone—even to a small Maya village. Guides speak English, Italian, French, German, Dutch, and Spanish, and there are several informational kiosks on Quinta Avenida.
AeroSaab (Playa del Carmen Airport, 20 Av. Sur near Calle 1, tel. 998/865-4225, www.aerosaab.com) offers stunning panoramic flights of Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya (US$183-1,013, 4-6 passengers, 15 minutes-2 hours), as well as scenic full-day tours to places like Chichén Itzá, Isla Holbox, and Mérida/Uxmal (US$296-520 pp). Trips are in four- to six-seat Cessna airplanes and typically require a minimum of 2-4 people.
Spas and Gyms
El Jardín de Shangri La (Calle 38 at Calle Flamingo, tel. 984/801-1295, www.jardinde-shangrila.com, 7am-9pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun., US$15 per class, multi-class packages available) is a large jungly plot with a palapa-roofed area for yoga and meditation classes. It also hosts “community meditation” on Friday (voluntary donation) and “tribal yoga” with drumming on Saturday (US$20). Check online for the class schedule and upcoming workshops and events.
The Gym (Av. 1 near Calle 16 Bis, tel. 984/873-2098, www.thegymplaya.com, 6am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-7pm Sat., 8am-5pm Sun.) is a modern facility offering state-of-the-art equipment and a host of classes, including yoga, Pilates, spinning, and martial arts. There are personal trainers on-site, too. Day passes are US$15; multiday and monthly passes also are available.
You can get a massage on the beach at various locations, including at a large no-name spa on Playa El Recodo (entrance at end of Calle 14, no tel., 7am-6pm daily, US$18 for 70 minutes).
The well-tended Unidad Deportiva Villanueva Madrid (10 Av. near Calle 30, 6am-10:30pm daily) is Playa del Carmen’s public sporting facility, with a gym, tennis and basketball courts, track, and soccer field. All have night lighting and are open to the public free of charge, but you need to bring your own gear.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Playa del Carmen has a huge selection and variety of accommodations, from youth hostels to swanky resorts to condos and long-term rentals. Most all-inclusives are located in Playacar, just south of town.
Under US$50
Youth Hostel Playa (Calle 8 near 25 Av., tel. 984/803-3277, www.hostelplaya.com, US$12 dorm, US$26/40 d/t with shared bath) has long been one of Playa del Carmen’s best hostels, despite being somewhat removed from downtown and the beach. The dorm rooms are narrow but clean and have thick, comfortable mattresses, individual fans, mosquito nets, and free lockers. The private rooms are spotless, although light sleepers may be bothered by street noise. There’s a clean, well-equipped kitchen and free PCs and Wi-Fi. Best of all is the hostel’s enormous common area, which is perfect for eating, playing cards, reading, watching TV, or just kicking back.
Hostel Che (Calle 6 btwn 15 and 20 Avs., 984/147-1741, www.hostelche.com.mx, US$8.25-13.50 dorm with a/c, US$25 d with a/c and shared bath, US$50 quad with a/c and private bath) is a cool new hostel, with a lively atmosphere and reasonably comfortable accommodations. The higher-priced dorms are worth the investment, and there’s a nice terrace with a full bar and music and activity into the wee hours. It’s a good option if you’re looking to meet people and have fun, less so if you’re an early sleeper. There’s also kitchen access, free breakfast, and Wi-Fi.
US$50-100
Tucked into a quiet leafy courtyard, Club Yebo (Av. 1 at Calle 14, tel. 984/803-3966, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-9510, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/676-4431, www.clubyebo.com, US$45 s/d bungalow, US$69 studio with a/c, US$95 one-bedroom apartment with a/c, US$115 two-bedroom with a/c) is a small hotel offering tasteful studios and apartments with modern furnishings and fully equipped kitchens. All have quiet air-conditioning, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and daily maid service. Common areas include a small pool and two palapa lounges with hammocks. The only downside is if you need front desk assistance after hours, you must go down the street to its sister establishment, Playa Palms Hotel.
Hotel Hul-Kú (20 Av. btwn Calles 4 and 6, tel. 984/873-0021, www.hotelhulku.com, US$61-71 s/d with a/c) is a clean, well-located alternative that won’t break the bank. Rooms are plain but well maintained and perfectly comfortable, all with TV, Wi-Fi, and air-conditioning—some with basic kitchenettes. There’s even a crystal-clean swimming pool, set in the hotel’s shady courtyard.
Hotel Casa de las Flores (20 Av. btwn Calles 4 and 6, tel. 984/873-2898, www.hotelcasadelasflores.com, US$90-100 s/d with a/c) offers a cheerful hacienda-esque exterior that gives way to a leafy courtyard and garden, with a small stone-paved pool and rooms arranged on two levels in back. All units have comfortable beds and warm artful decor; the “plus” rooms have king-size beds, flat-screen TVs, and more space and light, and are well worth the higher rate.
Hotel Barrio Latino (Calle 4 btwn 10 and 15 Avs., tel. 984/873-2384, www.hotelbarriolatino.com, US$69 with a/c) offers charming rooms with mosaic-tile bathrooms, stone-inlaid floors, and private balconies. A complimentary continental breakfast is served in a leafy courtyard with a palapa-roofed lounge—a good place to write postcards or play cards. Wireless Internet access and most international phone calls are also included in the rate.
Hotel Riviera Caribe Maya (10 Av. at Calle 30, tel. 984/873-1193, www.hotelriviera-maya.com, US$60 s/d-130 s/d with a/c) offers bright rooms with hand-carved Mexican furnishings and modern amenities like mini air conditioners, cable TV, in-room phones, and minifridges. Many have patios or balconies that look out onto the hotel’s small inviting pool, which is tucked into a pleasant courtyard. The more expensive rooms are located in a newer building and are larger, with wood-floor balconies and deluxe features like king-size beds and Jacuzzi tubs. Continental breakfast and Wi-Fi (lobby only) are included in all the rates.
US$100-150
Hotel LunaSol (Calle 4 btwn 15 and 20 Avs., tel. 984/873-3933, www.lunasolhotel.com, US$80-110 s/d with a/c) offers 16 comfortable rooms, all with private balconies or terraces, on spacious leafy grounds. The rooms are a bit sparse but have nice tile bathrooms, minifridges, and flat-screen TVs; 2nd-floor rooms have higher ceilings and better light. Though well located for eating out, the hotel has a fully equipped outdoor kitchen if you’d rather stay in, plus a sparkling swimming pool and Jacuzzi.
Hotel Aventura Mexicana (Calle 24 btwn 5 and 10 Avs., tel. 984/873-1876, www.aventuramexicana.com, US$118-132 s/d with a/c, US$144 deluxe s/d with a/c) has two sections: The newer adults-only area has deluxe rooms with muted colors, elegant furnishings, and a nicely manicured garden and pool. The older section isn’t dumpy, but has plainer decor and a long thin pool squeezed in the center of the courtyard; it’s also slightly cheaper and open to families. Guests give both areas top marks, though, making it a versatile option.
An adults-only hotel, Luna Blue Hotel (Calle 26 btwn 5 and 10 Avs., tel. 984/873-0990, www.lunabluehotel.com, US$80-110 s/d with a/c) is a leafy oasis, and an excellent value, just off busy Quinta Avenida. Rooms are tidy and cool, with pithy travel-related quotes stenciled on the wall, and range from standard hotel rooms to suites with balconies and kitchens. A pleasant garden has colorful Adirondack chairs and a sunken pool, all beneath a canopy of tropical trees. The friendly American owners also provide Wi-Fi, beach club passes, purified water, and morning coffee and muffins.
Aqualuna Hotel (Av. 10 at Calle 14, tel. 984/873-1965 or 984/803-3018, www.aqualunahtl.com, US$85-125 s/d with a/c) is an intimate hotel with Mediterranean style. Units are simple and airy, with curving whitewashed walls, blue accents, and original art from Jalisco, plus upscale amenities like flat-screen TVs; all open onto a leafy, winding courtyard. Guests enjoy beach access and pool access at sister establishments. The hotel is gay friendly.
US$150-200
Playa Palms (Av. 1 Bis near Calle 14, tel. 984/803-3908, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-9510, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/676-4431, www.playapalms.com, US$180-235 s/d with a/c, US$185 suite with a/c) is a classy beachfront hotel, with airy and colorful rooms, most with kitchenettes and fine ocean views. A thin pool winds through the hotel’s leafy interior courtyard; it’s picturesque though not really practical for actually swimming in. Likewise, the beach area is comfortable, but fishing boats moored there can make it hard to enjoy the water. Still, the location and amenities made this a popular option. Rooms have Wi-Fi and iPod docks.
Playa Maya (on the beach btwn Calles 6 and 8, tel. 984/803-2022, www.playa-maya.com, US$150-210 s/d with a/c, US$180 suite with a/c and kitchenette) is one of the few small hotels in Playa with direct beach access. All 20 rooms are modern and comfortable, including some with kitchen, balcony, and ocean views. There are a tiny pool, Jacuzzi, and sundeck, located somewhat awkwardly at the entrance. The beach is lovely and relaxing, though, with lounge chairs, shaded tables, and food and drink service. Note that even the entrance faces the beach, so you may need a porter to help carry bags across the sand. There’s a four- to five-night minimum, depending on the season.
Over US$200
With gorgeous gardens and one of the best beachfronts in Playa, Hotel Las Palapas (Calle 34 btwn 5 Av. and the beach, tel. 984/873-4260, www.laspalapas.com, US$235-315 s/d with a/c) makes the most of its somewhat removed location. There are 75 rooms in one- and two-story thatched-roof bungalows, either garden or ocean view. All units are peaceful, if a bit dated (they’re slowly being renovated), with comfortable beds and large patios with hammocks. There’s a pool, spa, dive shop, and, of course, beach chairs and umbrellas on that beautiful beach. Rates are a tad inflated, and noise from a beach club down the way can be a bit annoying, but it’s still a lovely choice. A full buffet breakfast is included.
Mosquito Blue (5 Av. btwn Calles 12 and 14, tel. 984/873-1245, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/999-6666, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/547-8756, toll-free Can. tel. 866/940-5518, www.mosquitoblue.com, US$200-385 s/d with a/c) boasts lush interior courtyards with two amoeba-shaped pools, an impressive palapa-roofed lounge, and striking fine art throughout. Rooms, though somewhat cramped, are beautifully appointed and have high-end amenities: digital safes, minibars, Egyptian linens, cable TV, and Wi-Fi. Its sister hotel, Mosquito Beach (Calle 8 at the beach, same tels., www.mosquitobeachhotel.com), has a similar style and rates but is located on the beach. It’s adults only for both; deep discounts are available when booking online.
Mahékal Beach Resort (Calle 38 near 5 Av., tel. 984/873-0579, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/836-8942, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/235-4452, www.mahekalplaya.com, US$279-494 s/d with a/c, US$520 casita with a/c, including breakfast and dinner) is a huge yet tranquil resort, divided into three sections: upscale oceanfront units, adults-only garden-view units, and a family area with garden- and ocean-view rooms. All units feature private terraces, air-conditioning, and safe-deposit box, but purposefully do not have TV, phone, or Wi-Fi in the rooms. Some of the rooms have been renovated, but others are a bit dated, as are some common areas. The resort’s beach, though, is gorgeous—a good thing since that’s where you’re sure to end up most days.
All-Inclusive Resorts
Most of Playa del Carmen’s all-inclusives are in Playacar, an upscale hotel and residential development south of town.
Iberostar Tucan (Av. Xaman-Ha, tel. 984/877-2000, www.iberostar.com, US$260-450 d all-inclusive) has a spacious lobby-entryway and wide attractive beach with palm trees, beach chairs, and mild surf. Separating the lobby and the beach is a broad patch of healthy coastal forest, where you can spot monkeys, parrots, and other native creatures in the treetops. After so many sterile and manicured resorts, the Tucan makes for a welcome change of scenery. The pool is huge and near the beach. Rooms occupy large buildings along the property’s edges and are clean and comfortable, though plain. Junior suites have sea views.
Riu Palace Riviera Maya (Av. Xaman-Ha, tel. 984/877-2290, www.riu.com, US$260-575 d all-inclusive) is one of six all-inclusive Riu resorts clustered together in Playacar and the most upscale, though each resort in the group has its own appeal. The Palace Riviera Maya has an old-world look, with a soaring marble-floored lobby, ornate ironwork, and Renaissance-style paintings and artwork. Suites feature additional sitting areas, understated colors and decor, top-shelf liquors, and modern bathrooms, including hydromassage tubs. The beach and pool areas are spacious and appealing, and there are well-supplied gym and spa areas. Nightlife here can be a bit sedentary, but the advantage of the Palace category is that you have access to the other more lively Riu resorts, like the Tequila or Yucatán.
Rental Properties
Playacar has scores of houses for rent, of all sizes and styles. Prices vary considerably, but expect to pay a premium for ocean views and during peak seasons. A number of property-management companies rent houses, including Playacar Vacation Rentals (Calle 10 s/n, tel. 984/873-0418, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/862-7164, www.playacarvacationrentals.com) and Playa Beach Properties & Rentals (Plaza Antigua, Calle 10 s/n, tel. 984/873-2952, U.S. tel. 205/332-3458, www.playabeachrentals.com). Both offices are south of Avenida Juárez near the Playacar entrance.
Encanto El Faro (beachfront at Calle 12, www.vrbo.com, US$180-350 with a/c and kitchen) is one of very few accommodations in Playa proper with a swimming pool facing the beach. It’s a lovely pool, too: large, sparkling clean, and encircled by dark-wood walkways and lounge chairs, with a children’s area as well. The lodging itself is less successful: One-, two-, and three-bedroom condos have full kitchens and partial ocean views, but can be rather dark. Condos here are individually owned, so it’s worth doing your homework before booking; VRBO and TripAdvisor are good places to start. The all-inclusive plan is not worth the price.
FOOD
Playa del Carmen has restaurants and eateries for all tastes and budgets. Those on Quinta Avenida are pricier, of course, many for good reason, others less so. Cheaper eats tend to be off the main drag.
Mexican
La Cueva del Chango (Calle 38 near 5 Av., cell. tel. 984/147-0271, www.lacuevadelchango.com, 8am-11pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-2pm Sun., US$5-15) means The Cave of the Monkey, but there’s nothing dim or primitive about it: The covered dining area has light-hearted decor (and a back patio ensconced in leafy vegetation), while the menu features crepes, empanadas, and innovative items like eggs with polenta and chaya. It’s often packed with Playa’s upper crust, though the prices make it accessible to all.
Carboncitos (Calle 4 btwn Avs. 5 and 10, tel. 984/873-1382, 7:30am-11pm daily, US$5-15) is a traveler favorite in Playa, serving terrific Mexican food (and some things you may be missing from home, like fresh salads) in a friendly and welcoming setting. Prices and portions are reasonable by Playa standards, and the restaurant gets the little things right, like tasty guacamole and homemade salsas.
Frutiyogurth (Plaza Pelícanos, Av. 10 near Calle 10, tel. 984/803-2516, www.frutiyogurth.com.mx, 8:30am-10:30pm daily, US$3-7) is bustling little eatery, serving classic Mexican tortas (sandwiches) piled high with fillings like chipotle chicken and milanesa (chicken-fried steak), plus a monster selection of fresh juices and smoothies.
An old-school Mexican coffee shop that’s popular with locals, Café Andrade (Calle 8 near 20 Av., tel. 998/846-8257, 7am-11pm daily, US$2-5) serves up mean breakfast and dinner plates with tacos, chilaquiles, mole, enchiladas—you name it, they’ve probably got it. Lunch specials include soup, a main dish, dessert, and a half pitcher of fresh juice for just six bucks.
Seafood
Unassuming and refreshingly untouristy, La Pesca (30 Av. near Av. Constituyentes, no phone, noon-10pm daily, US$5-15) specializes in super-fresh seafood, including hefty fish and shrimp plates, tasty ceviche, and great fish tacos. It’s a bit of a hike from the center and has a view of a supermarket parking lot, but it is a tasty way to get off Quinta Avenida.
Ula-Gula (5 Av. at Calle 10, 2nd Fl., tel. 984/879-3727, 4:30pm-midnight daily, US$9-25) serves outstanding gourmet meals in an appealing dining area overlooking Quinta Avenida. The seafood is the real standout here, whether appetizers like tuna with wasabi and soy sauce, or the fish of the day prepared with a parsley Gorgonzola sauce. For dessert, try the chocolate fondant—a small chocolate cake filled with rich chocolate syrup and accompanied by ice cream.
On a fun, busy block at the north end of Playa, El Diez (5 Av. at Calle 30, tel. 984/803-5418, 1pm-midnight daily, US$10-25) is an Argentinean steak house, borrowing the nickname of Argentina’s larger-than-life footballer, Diego Maradona. The specialties here are grilled meats and fresh seafood, but the long menu also includes items like burgers, salads, and empanadas. Service can be a bit slow, but the large outdoor dining area is perfect for enjoying the goings-on.
John Gray’s Place (Calle Corazón near Calle 14, tel. 984/803-3689, www.johngrayrestaurantgroup.com, 1pm-5pm and 6pm-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$15-30) is an offshoot of the original John Gray’s Kitchen in Puerto Morelos, widely considered one of the best restaurants on the Riviera Maya. The kid lives up to expectations, expertly fusing gourmet American cuisine with flavors from around the world, like tuna carpaccio with wasabi cream and sweet soy sauce, or spicy crab cakes with cilantro-leek fondue.
Although occasionally missing the mark, old-timer Babe’s Noodles and Bar (Calle 10 btwn 5 Av. and 10 Av., tel. 984/803-0056, www.babesnoodlesandbar.com, 1pm-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$6-14) still serves up delicious Thai-fusion meals in a hip bistro setting. Dishes come in half and full orders. Don’t miss a chance at ordering the limonmenta, an awesome lime-mint slushie. It’s not a huge place, so you may have to wait for a table during high season, or if you prefer, head down the street to its like-named sister restaurant (5 Av. btwn Calles 28 and 30), which has the same menu and hours.
100% Natural (5 Av. btwn Calles 10 and 12, tel. 984/873-2242, 7am-11pm daily, US$6-12) serves mostly vegetarian dishes and a large selection of fresh fruit juices. Service can be hit or miss, but the food is fresh and well prepared. Tables are scattered through a leafy garden area and covered patio—great for taking a break from the sun.
If you’re looking for cheap eats, check out the string of hole-in-the-wall eateries (Av. 10 btwn Calles 8 and 10, US$1.25-4) across the street from Plaza Pelícanos. Here you’ll have your choice of tacos, tortas (Mexican-style sandwiches), crepes, pizza by the slice, and smoothie stands, all at decent prices. Most are open 9am-10pm daily.
Cafés and Bakeries
Two doors down from Starbucks, Café Sasta (5 Av. btwn Calles 8 and 10, tel. 984/873-3030, 7am-11pm daily, US$1.50-5) is putting up the good fight, with old-time charm and a tempting display of muffins, scones, cupcakes, and cheesecake to go along with the full coffee menu. Seating is available indoors and outdoors.
Chocolate lovers will melt over Ah Cacao (5 Av. at Av. Constituyentes, tel. 984/803-5748, www.ahcacao.com, 7:15am-11:30pm daily, US$2-5), a chocolate café where every item on the menu—from coffees to cakes—is homemade from the finest of beans. A sister shop (Calle 30 near 5 Av., tel. 984/879-4179, 7am-11:30pm daily) is located up the street from Playa Tukán.
You’ll smell Hot (Calle Corazón at Calle 14, tel. 984/879-4520, www.thehotbaking-company.com, 7am-10pm daily, US$4.50-10) a block away—this café bakes fresh breads and pastries all day. Most people end up staying for more than just a brownie, though—the menu full of sandwiches prepared on whole-wheat or sunflower-seed bread is almost impossible to resist. The shady outdoor eating area is a great place to enjoy a leisurely breakfast, too.
Groceries
Walmart (Calle 8 btwn Avs. 20 and 25, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/710-6352, 7am-midnight daily) is located right behind city hall—how’s that for a metaphor?—with everything from clothes, shoes, and snorkel gear to groceries, prepared food, and a full pharmacy. Liquor sales end at 11pm.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
There is no tourist information office in Playa, but the tourist police have a kiosk on the plaza (5 Av. at Av. Juárez, 24 hours), which often is stocked with brochures and maps.
Quinta (www.allrivieramaya.com) and Sac-Be (www.sac-be.com) are free monthly magazines that usually offer a handful of useful articles, listings, and events calendars.
Emergency Services
Hospiten Riviera Maya (Hwy. 307 s/n, tel. 984/803-1002, www.hospiten.com, 24 hours) is a private hospital offering modern, high-quality medical service at reasonable rates. Many of the doctors have U.S. training and speak English, and are accustomed to treating foreign visitors and expats. It is located along the east side of the highway on the southern side of Playa.
Playa also has a hyperbaric chamber, operated by Playa International Clinic (10 Av. at Calle 28 Norte, tel. 984/803-1215, emergency tel. 984/873-1365, 9am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-2pm and 5pm-7pm Sat.).
For emergency ambulance service, call 065 from any phone.
Prescriptions are required for many antibiotics now, unlike years past. Farmacias del Ahorro (10 Av. at Calle 10, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/711-2222, 9am-10pm daily) has a full pharmacy on the 1st floor and a free walk-in clinic on the 2nd floor, where a doctor can write prescriptions after a short interview or exam; the clinic is closed 3pm-5pm and weekends.
The tourist police (tel. 984/877-3340, or 060 from any pay phone) have an office on Avenida Juárez and 15 Avenida, and informational kiosks along Quinta Avenida, theoretically operating 24 hours a day.
Money
Banamex (Calle 12 at 10 Av., 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) and Banorte (Plaza Pelícanos, 10 Av. btwn Calles 8 and 10, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm Sat.) are full-service banks with ATMs and foreign exchange. There also are several freestanding ATMs around town.
Media and Communications
The post office (Calle 2 at Av. 20, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-noon Sat.) is easy to miss—look for the dilapidated building near the combi terminal.
Internet cafés have gone from ubiquitous to nearly obsolete, thanks to the proliferation of mobile devices and the availability of free Wi-Fi at most hotels. Among the remaining locations include Playa.Net (Calle 10 near 10 Av., 9am-3pm and 4pm-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$1.25/hour), Telcel (10 Av. btwn Av. Juárez and Calle 2, 9am-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$1/hour), and the overpriced Markitos (5 Av. at Calle 20, 9am-11pm daily, US$3.25/hour).
Immigration and Consulates
Playa del Carmen’s immigration office (Plaza Antigua mall, 2nd Fl., Calle 10 s/n, tel. 998/881-3560, 9am-1pm Mon.-Fri.) is located on the road to Playacar. Avoid using it, however, as the one in Cancún is more efficient. A tourist visa extension, or prórroga, can take a week or more in Playa and involves considerable documentation; in Cancún, the same process is simplified and takes as little as two hours.
The U.S. Consular Agency (Calle 1 btwn Avs. 15 and 20, tel. 984/873-0303, play-ausca@gmail.com) is open 10am-1pm Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
Laundry and Storage
At the north end of town, Mr. Laundry (10 Av. btwn Calles 28 and 30, 7am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-5pm Sun.) charges US$1-1.75 per kilo with a two-kilo (4.4-pound) minimum. Lavandería Premium Los Mecates (Calle 4 near 20 Av., 8am-9pm Mon.-Sat.) charges US$0.80-1.25 per kilo and has a three-kilo (6.6-pound) minimum. At both places, the lower rate is for one- to two-day service, the higher is for express.
Luggage storage is available at both bus stations. Guarda Plus (6am-10pm daily) charges US$0.50-1.25 per hour depending on the size of the bag, or US$8.25 per day.
Language and Instruction
Playa del Carmen is becoming a popular place to study Spanish, with several schools, plenty of options for cultural and historical excursions, and, of course, great beaches and nightlife.
Solexico (Calles 6 btwn 35 and 40 Avs., tel. 984/873-0755, www.solexico.com) is a highly recommended school with a welcoming campus and reputation for professionalism. Classes are offered one-on-one or in groups no larger than five, and for 15, 20, 25, or 40 hours per week (US$190-625/week). All levels of courses are offered, including instruction geared toward professionals who have regular contact with Spanish speakers. Students can stay with local families (US$180-245/week), at the school’s 10-room student residence (US$225-280/week), or arrange for hotel and condo rentals. Ask about volunteer opportunities.
International House (Calle 14 btwn 5 Av. and 10 Av., tel. 984/803-3388, www.ihrivieramaya.com, 7am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-1pm Sat.) occupies a pretty and peaceful colonial home, with a large classroom, garden, and café on-site. Group classes (US$220/week) meet 20 hours per week with a maximum of eight students, though typically just 3-4, and can be paired with instruction in things like diving, Mexican cooking, and Latin dancing. Private and two-person classes are also available, as well as custom courses for medical professionals, teachers, and other groups. Family stays can be arranged for US$210-245 per week, with breakfast or half board, while a variety of furnished apartments and student rooms, single and shared, with or without meals, run US$160-595 per week.
GETTING THERE
Air
Playa del Carmen has a small airport a few blocks from the ferry pier, but it’s used for private and charter flights only. Commercial service is available at Cancún’s international airport.
Bus
Playa del Carmen has two bus stations: Terminal Turística (aka Terminal Riviera, 5 Av. and Av. Juárez) is in the center of town and has frequent second-class service to destinations along the coast, including Cancún, Tulum, and everything in between; and Terminal Alterna (Calle 20 btwn Calles 12 and 12 Bis) has first-class and deluxe service to interior destinations such as Mérida, Campeche, and beyond. There is some overlap, and you can buy tickets for any destination at either station, so always double-check from which station your bus departs.
Combi
Combis (shuttle vans) are an easy way to get up and down the Riviera Maya. In Playa, northbound combis line up on Calle 2 near 20 Avenida, with service 24 hours a day (every 10 minutes until 11pm, then every 30 minutes). For slightly more, Playa Express has larger, air-conditioned shuttles, departing from a lot on Calle 2 between 20 and 25 Avenidas 5:15am-11:15pm daily. The final destination of both services is Cancún’s main bus terminal (US$3, 50 minutes), but you can be dropped off anywhere along the highway, including Puerto Morelos (US$2.50, 30 minutes). Combis do not enter Cancún’s Zona Hotelera, but you can catch a bus there from outside the terminal.
South from Playa del Carmen, ordinary combis leave from the same corner around the clock, going as far as the Tulum bus station (US$3.50, 1 hour), passing the turnoffs for Puerto Aventuras (US$2, 10 minutes), Xpu-Há (US$2.50, 20 minutes), Akumal (US$2.50, 25 minutes), Hidden Worlds (US$3.50, 40 minutes), Tankah Tres (US$3, 45 minutes), and Tulum Ruins (US$3, 50 minutes). To return, flag down a combi anywhere along the highway.
Car
If you are driving to Playa del Carmen, look for the two main access roads to the beach—Avenida Constituyentes on the north end of town and Avenida Benito Juárez on the south. Playacar has its own entrance from the highway but can also be reached by turning south on Calle 10 off Avenida Juárez.
Ferry
Passenger ferries to Cozumel (US$13 each way, 30 minutes) leave from the pier at the end of Calle 1 Sur. UltraMar (www.granpuerto.com.mx) and Mexico Water Jets (www.mexicowaterjets.com.mx) alternate departures and charge the same amount, though UltraMar’s boats are newer. Their ticket booths are side by side at the foot of the pier, with the time of the next departure displayed prominently. The ticket seller will try to sell you a round-trip ticket, but there’s no disadvantage to buying a sencilla (one-way ticket) and waiting to see which ferry has the next departure when you’re ready to return. Between the two companies, there are ferries every 1-2 hours on the hour 7am-10pm daily.
PLAYA DEL CARMEN BUS SCHEDULES
Terminal Turística (5 Av. and Av. Juárez, tel. 984/873-0109, ext. 2501, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/702-8000) is located near the ferry dock and has frequent service north to Cancún and south to Tulum, and most locations in between. Long-distance buses use the Terminal Alterna.
Most Tulum-bound buses stop at the turnoffs for destinations along the way, including Paamul (US$1.25-3.50,15 minutes), Puerto Aventuras (US$1.50-3.50, 20 minutes), Xpu-Há (US$2-4, 25 minutes), Akumal (US$2.50-4.50, 30 minutes), XeI-Há (US$3-5, 30 minutes), and Hidden Worlds and Dos Ojos (both US$3-5, 40 minutes).
Most Chetumal-bound buses stop at Carrillo Puerto (US$6.75-9.50, 2-2.5 hours) and Bacalar (US$13.50-18.25, 4.5 hours).
Most Cancún-bound buses stop at Puerto Morelos (US$2-5.50,35 minutes), but not the airport or Cancún’s Zona Hotelera.
Car ferries operated by Transcaribe (tel. 987/872-7688 or 987/872-7671 in Cozumel, www.transcaribe.net) depart from the Calica dock south of Playa at 4am, 8am, 1:30pm, and 6pm Monday; 1:30 and 6pm Tuesday and Friday; 8am, 1:30pm, and 6pm Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday; and 6am and 6pm on Sunday. Returning from Cozumel, the ferry leaves from the international pier at 6am, 11am, 4pm, and 8:30pm Monday-Saturday and at 8am and 8pm on Sunday. The trip takes about an hour and 15 minutes and costs US$60 for a passenger car including driver, and US$5.50 per additional passenger. Reservations are available online, by phone, or at the pier, and are strongly recommended.
GETTING AROUND
Playa del Carmen is a walking town, although the steady northward expansion is challenging that description. The commercial part of Quinta Avenida now stretches over 40 blocks and keeps getting longer. Cabs are a good option, especially if you have luggage.
Taxi
Taxis around town cost US$2-5, or a bit more if you use a taxi stand or have your hotel summon one. All taxi drivers carry a tarifário—an official fare schedule—which you can ask to see if you think you’re getting taken for a ride (so to speak). Prices do change every year or two, so ask at your hotel what the current rate is, and always be sure to agree on the fare with the driver before setting off.
Terminal Alterna (Calle 20 btwn Calles 12 and 12 Bis, tel. 984/803-0944, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/702-8000) departures include:
Car
Playa has myriad car rental agencies, and prices can vary considerably. Major agencies like Hertz, National, Avis, and Executive are the most reliable and often have great deals if you reserve online.
Parking in Playa in the high season can be a challenge, especially south of Avenida Constituyentes. Many hotels have secure parking; there are also parking lots around town, including on Calle 2 at 10 Avenida (8am-10pm daily) and at Calle 14-bis and 10 Avenida (8am-10pm daily), charging around US$1 per hour or US$9 per day.
PAAMUL
What started out as an unassuming trailer park on a beautiful stretch of beach has now become a seaside community all its own. Located about 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) south of Playa del Carmen, Paamul has everything from RVs with elaborate wood and palapa structures over them to hotel rooms, a restaurant, and even a dive shop.
Beach
Paamul stretches over a wide curving beach. It’s clean and classically pretty with white sand and turquoise water—perfect for swimming and exploring. Watch your step on the south end of the beach, as its waters harbor prickly sea urchin—consider wearing water shoes.
Snorkeling and Scuba Diving
Scuba-Mex (Hwy. 307 Km. 85, tel. 984/807-7866, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/871-6255, www.scubamex.com, 8am-5pm daily) is a full-service shop offering fun dives, dive packages, and dive courses at rock bottom prices. If you’re just interested in snorkeling off the beach, the shop also rents snorkel gear.
Accommodations
Sitting alone on a gorgeous bay is Paamul Hotel & Cabañas (Hwy. 307 Km. 85, tel. 984/875-1050, U.S. tel. 615/597-0888, www.paamul.com, US$12.50 pp tent, US$45 s/d RVs, US$85 s/d cabañas, US$100 s/d with a/c, US$125 s/d with a/c and kitchenette). From elegant hotel rooms to simple camp sites, it appeals to travelers of all budgets. The hotel rooms are simple and elegant with features like minifridges and microwaves, quiet air-conditioning, and gorgeous ocean views from private terraces. The tent and trailer spaces are just steps from the Caribbean and have electricity and running water, and share clean hot-water bathrooms. The cabañas, unfortunately, miss the mark. Though tempting in a rustic sort of way, they are so ill-maintained, they’re not worth the cost. Nevertheless, once you factor in the on-site restaurant and dive shop, this place is a rare find.
Food
Open-air, modern, and with a great view of the Caribbean, the Reefs of Paamul Restaurant and Bar (Hwy. 307 Km. 85, tel. 984/875-1050, 8am-8pm daily, US$5-16) serves up classic Mexican dishes along with a variety of international meals. There’s something for everyone, which makes it an easy choice. (Good thing, since it’s the only restaurant in Paamul.)
For groceries, the very mini Mini Super Paa Mul (7am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-2pm Sun.) sells basic foodstuffs. It’s located at the highway turnoff to Paamul.
Information and Services
There are no health, banking, Internet, postal, or laundry services in Paamul. The closest town for a full range of services is Playa del Carmen, 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) north.
Puerto Aventuras is an odd conglomeration of condos, summer homes, and hotels, organized around a large marina, including a swim-with-dolphins area. It’s more than a resort but not really a town. Whatever you call it, Puerto Aventuras’s huge signs and gated entrance are impossible to miss, located a few minutes north of Akumal on Highway 307.
SIGHTS
Museo Sub-Acuático CEDAM
Short for Conservation, Ecology, Diving, Archaeology, and Museums, CEDAM runs the very worthwhile Museo Sub-Acuático CEDAM (Bldg. F, no phone, 9am-1pm and 2:30pm-5:30pm Mon.-Sat., donation requested), displaying a wide variety of items: Maya offerings that were dredged from the peninsula’s cenotes, artifacts recovered from nearby colonial shipwrecks, early diving equipment, and photos of open-water and cenote explorations, some from the halcyon days of diving when jeans were the preferred getup.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Snorkeling and Scuba Diving
Some 25 dive sites lie within a 10-minute boat ride from the marina, each boasting rich coral, abundant sealife, and interesting features, like pillars and swim-throughs, found up and down the coast.
CEDAM and the Riviera Maya
In 1948, a small group of Mexican divers—active frogmen during World War II—created a nonprofit organization called Club de Exploración y Deporte Acuáticos de México (Exploration and Aquatic Sports Club of Mexico, or CEDAM). Their mission was to promote ocean conservation and educate others about its treasures and resources.
In 1958, the group set about salvaging the Mantanceros, a Spanish galleon that foundered offshore in 1741. It set up camp in present-day Akumal, then just an uninhabited beach owned by a man named Argimiro Arguelles. Arguelles leased CEDAM an old work boat for their project, the SS Cozumel, and worked as its captain.
It was this relationship that sealed Akumal’s—and arguably, the Riviera Maya’s—destiny. During a relaxed evening around the camp-fire, Arguelles sold Pablo Bush Romero, one of CEDAM’s founders, the bay of Akumal and thousands of acres of coconut palms north and south of it. For the next 12 years, CEDAM continued its work in the rustic and beautiful place—replacing their tents with sturdy palapa huts, and using the creaky SS Cozumel to carry divers to work sites along the coast.
It wasn’t long before the idea of promoting tourism on Mexico’s forgotten Caribbean coast arose. In 1968, the group—which had changed the words behind its initials to Conservation, Ecology, Diving, Archaeology, and Museums—donated 5,000 acres of land to the government, including the Cove of Xel-Há, to create a national park. The aim was to open the isolated area to tourists and, in so doing, create jobs for local residents. CEDAM also provided housing, food, electricity, running water, a school for the children, and a first-aid station with a trained nurse.
Still based in Akumal, CEDAM has grown into an important scientific and conservation organization. The group plays an active role in the archaeological exploration of cenotes, among other things, and hosts regular symposiums and seminars. A small but worthwhile museum in Puerto Aventuras—Museo Sub-Acuático CEDAM (Bldg. F, no phone, 9am-1pm and 2:30pm-5:30pm Mon.-Sat., donation requested)—displays some of the fascinating items the group has recovered in the region’s waters over the years.
Aquanauts (Bldg. A, tel. 984/873-5041, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/623-2491, www.aquanauts-online.com, 8am-5pm daily) is a full-service shop that enjoys lots of repeat guests. The shop offers the full range of dives and courses, including reef dives (US$49/one tank, US$94/two tanks), cenote dives (US$130/two tanks) and all levels of certification courses. The shop also offers snorkel tours, including one with a stop at Tulum ruins (US$45-90). Reservations are recommended, especially during the high season.
Swimming with Dolphins
Dolphin Discovery (Marina, tel. 984/873-5078, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/393-5158, www.dolphindiscovery.com, 9am-5pm daily) offers several dolphin encounter activities; prices vary according to the duration and degree of interaction (US$79-139 adult, US$79 child). The center also has manatee and sea-lion programs that can be taken in combination with dolphin activities. Programs start at 9am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, and 3:30pm daily; free round-trip shuttle service is available from area hotels.
Sportfishing
Capt. Rick’s Sportfishing Center (past Omni Puerto Aventuras hotel, tel. 984/873-5195, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/449-3562, www.fishyucatan.com, office 8am-7pm daily) offers customized fishing trips, both trolling and deep-sea fishing, utilizing a fleet of 10 boats, including a 56-foot yacht with room for up to 15 people. You can also arrange time for visiting a deserted beach or Maya ruin, snorkeling on the reef, or just cruising by upscale homes and hotels. Rates are for half day (US$390-650), three-quarter day (US$560-825), and full day (US$690-1,050).
Dolphin encounter programs include a variety of activities, from petting the animals to swimming with them.
© H.W. PRADO
Sailing
Fat Cat (Bldg. E, tel. 984/873-5899, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/724-5464, www.fatcatsail.com, 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Sat.) offers a spacious custom-designed catamaran used for half-day excursions (US$95 adult, US$59 child 5-12) that include sailing north toward Bahia Ihna, or south toward Xpu-Há—both with good snorkeling in shallow and protected waters.
Golf
Puerto Aventuras Club de Golf (across from Bldg. B, tel. 984/873-5109, www.puertoaventuras.com/golf.html, 7:30am-dusk daily, US$88) offers a nine-hole, par-36 golf course right in town. The course, designed in 1991 by Tom Lehman, is flat but has two par 5s over a total 2,961 yards (3,255 championship).
ACCOMMODATIONS
The road into town bumps right into Omni Puerto Aventuras Hotel Beach Resort (tel. 984/875-1950, www.omnihotels.com, US$189-219 s/d with a/c), a small upscale resort with the marina on one side and a fine, palm-shaded beach on the other. There are just 30 rooms, all reasonably spacious and attractive, with colorful regional decor and private patio and hot tub; ocean-view rooms are particularly nice. The resort’s small size and low-key atmosphere make it easy to meet other guests, and nighttime typically finds everyone around the main hot tub/beach bar overlooking the ocean.
Casa del Agua (Punta Matzoma 21, tel. 984/873-5184, www.casadelagua.com, US$500 s/d with a/c) is a beacon of class and charm amid the plastic commercialism of Puerto Aventuras. What looks like a private home is actually a boutique hotel with a handful of spacious suites. Each has elegant decor, a king-size bed, and luxurious bathrooms and amenities. There is a small sunny pool and private beach as well as complimentary kayaks and snorkeling gear. Daily maid service and the availability of a private chef are included in the rate. There’s a seven-night minimum during the high season, three-night minimum the rest of the year.
FOOD
A short stroll around Puerto Aventuras’s marina takes you past pretty much every restaurant in town, including Mexican, Italian, Mediterranean, and American options.
Latitude 20 (across from Dreams Puerto Aventuras Resort, Caleta Xel-ha, tel. 984/128-2933, www.restaurantlatitude20.com, 12:30pm-9:30pm daily, US$5-15) is a popular place serving up simple Caribbean dishes, including lots of seafood. There’s live jazz on Tuesday and Saturday nights and happy hour every night 3pm-7pm. Cash only.
Specializing in crepes and smoothies, Tesoros Café & Curio Shop (Edif. C, no phone, 8am-8pm, US$4-7) offers a great change of pace, food-wise—or at least a substantial afternoon snack. After eating, browse the curio shop, which has a wide selection of Mexican folk art.
Though it has a limited menu, Ristorante Massimo (Bldg. C, tel. 984/873-5418, 3pm-10pm daily, US$9-25) prepares what it does incredibly well. The pastas are freshly made and a variety of sauces makes it tough to choose just one. Nab a table facing the marina if you want to catch the dolphins jumping out of the water.
Café Olé International (Bldg. A, tel. 984/873-5125, 8am-10pm daily, US$5-25) has an extensive menu with something for just about everyone. It’s best known, though, for its filet mignon and homemade desserts.
If you’re cooking for yourself or just want some fresh fruit, check out the outdoor fruit and vegetable market (8:30am-3pm), which is held every Wednesday and Saturday next to the town’s kiosk.
Located conveniently across from the Omni hotel, Super Akumal (7am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-8pm Sun.) is the local market. Be aware that you can’t buy alcohol before 10am or after 9pm Monday-Saturday, nor after 2pm on Sunday. For serious shopping—and better prices—head to the mega store Chedraui (tel. 984/802-8773, 7am-8pm daily), located directly across Highway 307 from the Puerto Aventuras entrance.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
Despite the numbers of travelers who come to Puerto Aventuras, there is no tourist information office. Nevertheless, the town website—www.puertoaventuras.com—is a good resource.
Emergency Services
There is one pharmacy in town: First Aid Pharmacy (Bldg. A, tel. 984/873-5305, 8am-10pm daily, or by telephone 24 hours).
Money
Puerto Aventuras doesn’t have a bank, but there’s a Banamex ATM next to Capt. Rick’s Sportsfishing Center and a Santander ATM near the entrance of Museo CEDAM. Both are accessible 24 hours.
Media and Communications
The post office (11am-2:30pm Mon.-Sat.) is in a large kiosk a short distance from the golf club entrance.
The coffee and brownies are great at Café-C@fé (Bldg. E, tel. 984/873-5728, 7am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-10pm Sat.-Sun.), where you can get online for US$5 per hour or for much less with a prepaid 5- or 10-hour package. Wi-Fi is free if you buy something to eat or drink.
Laundry
Opposite the post office, Mikamale Mami (9am-7pm daily) charges US$1.50 per kilo (2.2 pounds) for next-day pickup, or US$2.25 per kilo for same-day service, both with a three-kilo (6.6-pound) minimum.
Arriving by public transportation, you can take a combi from Cancún, Playa del Carmen, or Tulum. Let the driver know where you’re going, and he’ll drop you off on the side of the highway. From there, it’s 500 meters (0.3 mile) into town. Arriving by car, you’ll pass through a large control gate, but no one who looks like a tourist is stopped.
In Puerto Aventuras, you can walk just about everywhere, as virtually all shops and services are centered around the marina.
This long, picturesque beach has clusters of development on either end and practically nothing in between. It seems only a matter of time before the owners of this enviable stretch of sand give their blessing to a megaresort, but for now it’s a gorgeous and peaceful spot where you could easily while away the whole day, or several.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Beach Clubs
La Playa Xpu-Há (Hwy. 307 Km. 265, tel. 984/106-0024, www.laplayaxpuha.com, 10am-6pm daily) is a bustling club that offers a slew of classic beach activities, including parasailing, fishing, snorkeling, and kayaking, all at standard prices. On weekends and holidays, there’s a US$2 per person “toll” at the entrance, charged by the landowner for upkeep of the access road. You get it back, though, as a credit on restaurant bills over US$10.
Just down the beach, Xpu-Há Bonanza (Hwy. 307 Km. 265, tel. 984/116-4733, 9am-5pm daily, US$3.25) has a much quieter scene, with umbrellas and lounge chairs on the beach (US$16.50/day umbrella and 2 chairs) and a kiosk to rent snorkel gear, kayaks, and more. There’s parking and clean bathrooms but no food or drink; bring your own or plan on paying a visit to La Playa, a short walk down the beach.
Snorkeling
In addition to the ocean reef, there’s great snorkeling in the numerous cenotes along the inland side of Highway 307, including a cluster just north of Xpu-Há. They vary in size, but most are like large ponds, some with high or overhanging limestone walls, and all filled with cool crystalline water—heaven on a hot day. The cenote floor is often a jumble of stone slabs and in places quite deep—some even have gaping underwater caves that descend out of sight. The cenotes near Xpu-Há are not, however, the huge stalactite-laden caverns you may have seen in photos; for those, head south to Hidden Worlds or Dos Ojos cenote parks, both near Tulum.
Cenote Cristalino (Hwy. 307, 2 kilometers/1.2 miles north of Xpu-Há, 8am-6pm daily, US$5, no rental gear available). Much of this half-moon-shaped cenote is shallow and covered in algae, but one section extends under a deep overhanging rock ceiling.
Jardín del Edén (formerly Ponderosa Cenote, Hwy. 307, 1.75 kilometers/1 mile north of Xpu-Há, 8am-5pm Sun.-Fri., US$5 adult, US$3 child, US$4.25 mask and snorkel, US$4.25 life vest) is much larger than most cenotes—almost like a small lake—with a craggy floor that makes for fun snorkeling. At one end, the floor falls away into a deep underwater cave, where you can see divers emerging—or disappearing—into the abyss, their halogen lights piercing the shadows. A six-meter (19.7-foot) cliff is fun to jump off; just be alert for divers who may be coming up. Between cave-diving classes, snorkeling groups, and independent travelers, Jardín del Edén can get busy but is generally big enough to make a stop here worthwhile.
At Cenote Azul (Hwy. 307, 1.5 kilometers/0.9 mile north of Xpu-Há, 8am-6pm daily, US$5, US$3.75 mask and snorkel, US$3.75 life vest), a few large pools and a section of overhanging rock are the highlights, and walkways along the edges facilitate getting in and out.
Snorkel, dive, or just enjoy the sun and water at Jardín del Edén, one of dozens of cenotes along the Riviera Maya.
© GARY CHANDLER
Scuba Diving
Bahía Divers (Hwy. 307 Km 265, tel. 984/120-1546, www.bahiadivers.com) operates out of a small hut a short distance down the beach from La Playa Xpu-Há beach club. It offers the full gamut of ocean and cenote dives, plus certification courses and snorkeling and fishing trips, all with the advantage of small groups (6 divers maximum) and personalized service. They also provide transport to and from your hotel, which is very handy. Ocean dives cost US$85 for two tanks, while cenote diving runs US$110 for two tanks, all including gear. Snorkeling trips are US$25 per person in the ocean (minimum 4 people) or US$50 per person in the cenotes (minimum 2 people).
ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD
Xpu-Há Bonanza (Hwy. 307 Km. 265, tel. 984/116-4733, US$12.50 pp camping, US$29 RVs, US$71/79 d/t) is a low-key beachfront spot with room for camping and RVs, plus eight large hotel rooms. The latter have two beds and two hammocks and clean cold-water bathrooms, but they lack natural light. Travelers with tents can set up in the sand under a palm tree and have access to clean-ish shared bathrooms. To get here, look for a narrow dirt road with a small sign, just south of the Catalonia Royal Tulum resort.
Hotel Esencia (Hwy. 307 Km. 265, tel. 984/873-4835, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/528-3490, www.hotelesencia.com, US$650 s/d, US$725-935 suite, US$2,179 two-bedroom cottage with pool) is a luxurious private estate turned resort. It boasts 29 gorgeous units, including classy garden-view rooms (some with private plunge pools), larger ocean-view suites, and stunning split-level cottages with private swimming pools and amenities like surround-sound audio systems and electronic window shades. The beach is just steps away and stretches, virtually untouched, for over a mile. Meal plans are available at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, and there’s a full-service spa on-site. Service, as expected, is impeccable.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
There are no services in Xpu-Há, save what’s available to guests at the hotels. For Internet cafes, laundry, ATM, and other services, head to Akumal or Puerto Aventuras.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Each of the listings for Xpu-Há has its own access road, marked with large or small signs, and located at or near Kilometer 265 on the main coastal highway (Hwy. 307). Catalonia Royal Tulum resort is the largest and most obvious landmark; the other access roads are within a few hundred yards. La Plaza and Xpu-Há Bonanza, at the southern end of the beach, are the best access points if you’re only staying the day, and are located 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) south of Playa.
Unreachable by land until the 1960s, Akumal (Yucatec Maya for Place of the Turtle) is a quiet destination community that has developed on two bays, known as Akumal Bay and Half Moon Bay. It’s a very agreeable mid-range place with sand roads and dozens of condominiums and rental homes. The beach in town is quite nice, if you don’t mind the boats occasionally parked on the sand; the beach at Half Moon Bay is narrow and rocky. Just offshore, a spectacular portion of barrier reef makes for great diving and snorkeling, and protects Akumal’s bays from heavy surf.
A short distance south of Akumal proper is Aventuras Akumal, another small bayside development. It doesn’t have the townlike feel or activity that Akumal does, but two good condo-hotels and a truly gorgeous beach make this a tempting alternative. Aventuras Akumal has a separate access road from the highway, and walking there along the beach takes about 45 minutes.
SIGHTS AND BEACHES
Beaches
Akumal Bay—the one right in front of town—has a long, slow-curving shoreline, with soft sand shaded by palm trees. The water is beautiful and there’s great snorkeling, including a good chance at spotting sea turtles. It’s a bit rocky underfoot, and you should be aware of boat traffic when swimming or snorkeling. Half Moon Bay also can be nice for swimming and snorkeling, but there’s no beach to speak of. Water shoes are handy in both areas.
Laguna Yal-Ku
At the mouth of an elbow-shaped lagoon at the north end of Akumal, an endless upwelling of underground river water collides with the tireless flow of seawater—the result is a great place to snorkel, teeming with fish and plants adapted to this unique hybrid environment. Once a secret snorkeler’s getaway, Laguna Yal-Ku (9am-5:30pm daily, US$10 adult, US$6 child 4-12, free 3 and under, US$5 apiece for mask, fins, and life vest, US$2 locker) now has a spot in every guidebook and tour group itinerary—come before 10am or anytime on Sunday for the least traffic. (That, and a shot at snagging a private picnic area [US$20], complete with palapa shade, a table, and chairs). Use a T-shirt or wetsuit instead of sunscreen, as even the biodegradable kind can collect on plants and coral. The lagoon is dotted with various intriguing bronze sculptures by Mexican artist Alejandro Echeverría.
Sea turtles are a universal favorite among divers and snorkelers, and can even be spotted on boat tours when they come to the surface to breathe.
© H.W. PRADO
Centro Ecológico Akumal
Next to Akumal Dive Shop, the Akumal Ecological Center (CEA, tel. 984/875-9095, www.ceakumal.org, 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm Mon.-Fri.) is a nonprofit founded in 1993 to monitor the health of Akumal’s ecosystems, particularly related to coral and sea turtles. From May to July, you can join CEA volunteers on nighttime turtle walks, helping move newly laid eggs to protected hatcheries. From August to October, visitors can help release hatchlings into the sea. Both activities are free, but a US$10 donation is appreciated. The center also has free displays and frequent evening lectures on ocean ecology in the high season.
CEA operates long-term volunteer projects on reef monitoring, sea-turtle monitoring, and environmental education projects. Volunteers stay in the center’s dorms, with kitchen and Internet access; minimum age is 21, and some fees are required. See the website for details.
Aktun Chen
Yucatec Maya for Cave with an Underground River, Aktun Chen (Hwy. 307 Km. 107, tel. 998/881-9400, www.aktunchen.com, 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat., last tour 1 hour before closing, US$30-97 adult, US$30-58 child) is certainly that, plus a cenote for swimming and snorkeling, and a canopy/zipline route. You can do all three activities, or just the ones that interest you. The cave tour is a walk of about 0.6 kilometer (0.3 mile) amid a breathtaking array of stalactites and stalagmites; at the end is a 12-meter-deep (39-foot) cenote filled with crystalline water. Lighting and a pathway make it accessible to all. You can’t swim in that cenote, but there’s another nearby, with stairs and platforms for getting in and out. Lastly, the canopy tour is made up of 10 ziplines and two wobbly suspension bridges, covering a full kilometer (0.6 mile). Between activities, check out the park’s small “zoo,” with spider monkeys, toucans, and more. Admission adds up fast, especially for families, but the experience is memorable.
Tours are offered in English and Spanish and last about 90 minutes. Round-trip transportation is available, or you can go independently—look for the turnoff just across from Aventuras Akumal, and continue three kilometers (1.9 miles) to the entrance. Mosquito repellent and a bottle of water are recommended. You’ll encounter the least crowding before 11am and on weekends.
SHOPPING
Mexicarte (tel. 984/875-9115, 9am-9pm daily) is the small, bright-pink shop just inside the arches on your right. The owner hand-selects the best folk art from around the region and country. Prices are high, but so is the quality and artisanship.
Galería Lamanai (tel. 984/875-9055, www.galerialamani.com, 8am-9pm daily) offers similar wares, both in quality and price. The shop is located on the beach near Snack Bar Lol Ha.
There is an open-air artesanía market behind Playa Ukana, facing the town basketball court. The items are standard Mexican handicrafts, like colorful ceramics from Puebla and textiles from Chiapas.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Scuba Diving
Some of the Riviera Maya’s first scuba divers waded into the waves right here at Akumal Bay, and the area has been special to the sport ever since. Akumal’s diving is easy and fun, with a mellow current and moderate depths; few profiles go below 20 meters (66 feet). The reef here is predominantly boulder coral, which isn’t as picturesque as other types, but it still teems with tropical fish and plant life.
Founded more than 30 years ago, Akumal Dive Shop (tel. 984/875-9032, www.akumaldiveshop.com, 8am-5pm daily) was the first dive shop in the Riviera Maya. Still located on the beach, the shop offers fun dives and various certification courses in both open-water and cave/cavern diving. Divers can take one- or two-tank reef dives (US$50/80), cavern dives (US$140-160), or buy dive packages. Fun dives don’t include equipment rental (US$30/day, US$150/week). Open-water certification courses take 3-4 days and cost US$485, equipment and materials included.
Just down the beach, Akumal Dive Center (tel. 984/875-9025, U.S. tel. 719/359-9672, www.akumaldivecenter.com, 8am-5pm) offers the same dives and courses at comparable prices.
On Half Moon Bay, Akumal Dive Adventures (next to La Buena Vida restaurant, tel. 984/875-9157, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/425-8625, www.akumaldiveadventures.com, 8am-5pm daily) offers somewhat lower prices than the other shops, as well as dive and accommodation packages starting at three nights lodging and four reef dives for US$300/400 per person double/single occupancy. Rooms are at the affiliated Vista del Mar hotel.
Aventuras Akumal has excellent diving and snorkeling, with a calm bay and less traffic than Akumal proper. Aquatech Dive Center (Aquatech Villas DeRosa, tel. 984/875-9020, U.S. tel. 801/619-9050, www.cenotes.com) has many years of experience and offers a complete range of dives and courses, with special emphasis on cenote and cave diving. Reef dives run US$45/75 for one/two tanks, while cenote dives are US$75/140. Open-water certification as well as cavern and cave diving instruction are also available.
Snorkeling
Laguna Yal-Ku (9am-5:30pm daily, US$10 adult, US$6 child 4-12, free 3 and under, US$5 apiece for mask, fins, and life vest, US$2 locker) is a favorite among many snorkelers for its large area, calm water, and unique mix of fresh- and saltwater ecosystems.
The dive shops also offer guided snorkel tours, which typically last 60-90 minutes and cost around US$25 per person, including gear.
You can rent snorkel gear at any of Akumal’s dive shops for around US$12 per day or US$60 per week and head out on your own in either Akumal Bay or Half Moon Bay; both have nice coral, plentiful fish, and a good chance of seeing sea turtles. Be alert for boats, especially in Akumal Bay.
Sailing
Akumal Dive Shop (on the beach, tel. 984/875-9032, www.akumaldiveshop.com, 8am-5pm daily) offers a popular Robinson Crusoe cruise: a five-hour excursion on a catamaran sailboat, with stops for fishing and snorkeling (US$95 pp including lunch and equipment). Or try the two-hour Sunset/Moonrise Cruise, which doesn’t include fishing and snorkeling, but offers beautiful evening views of the bay (US$45 pp).
Sportfishing
Akumal’s dive shops also offer fishing tours year-round. The price, duration, and group size vary considerably based on the season, what kind of fishing you want to do, and the type of boat that’s available. That said, expect to pay US$100-200 for a basic two- to three-hour tour with 2-6 anglers; you can usually extend the tour for an additional fee. Fishing is excellent year-round, but April-August are when sailfish and marlin are most prevalent.
Spas and Gyms
Yoga en Akumal (town arch, 2nd Fl., cell. tel. 984/745-3488 or 984/876-2652, www.akumalyoga.com) offers a variety of classes for all experience levels, including Hatha, Vinyasa Flow, and Kundalini, in a breezy studio inside the arch at the entrance to town. Sessions are led by one of four certified instructors; they cost US$15 per class, US$50 for six classes, or US$85 for an unlimited two-week pass; check online for the monthly schedule.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Akumal draws a number of long-term visitors and has a large number of fully equipped condos and villas, in addition to ordinary hotels. There’s no hostel, but backpackers might be able snag a dorm room at CEA.
In Town
Centro Ecológico Akumal (CEA, next to Akumal Dive Shop, tel. 984/875-9095, www.ceakumal.org, 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm Mon.-Fri.) has several large comfortable dorms—most even have air-conditioning—and a well-outfitted communal kitchen. CEA’s volunteers have priority for the rooms, and they are usually full, but if not, they’re available to walk-ins for US$25 per night (BYO linens).
Hotel Akumal Caribe (reception in the arches at the entrance to town, tel. 984/206-3500, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/351-1622, toll-free Can. tel. 800/343-1440, www.hotelakumalcaribe.com, US$89-134 s/d bungalow, US$169-185 s/d with a/c, US$174 s/d with a/c and kitchenette) is the oldest hotel in town, and it shows. Bungalows and hotel rooms are comfortable enough but, in their decor, they’re throwbacks to the 1980s. If you can live with that, you’ll enjoy the central location, the ocean views (from the hotel rooms only), the well-kempt pool, and, of course, the palm-tree-laden beach. Continental breakfast is included in the rate, too.
On the eastern end of town, Las Casitas Akumal (tel. 984/875-9071, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 800/525-8625, www.lascasitasakumal.com) has 18 airy condominiums, each with two bedrooms, two baths, living room, fully equipped kitchen, and private patio. Some have two floors and space for six people, and most feature bright, colorful Mexican artwork. All have ocean views and direct access to a semiprivate section of the beach. High-season rates average US$295-335 per night, with a seven-night minimum.
Half Moon Bay
Vista del Mar (tel. 984/875-9060, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/425-8625, www.akumalinfo.com, US$90-110 s/d, US$160-250 condo) has 16 spacious condos (studio to three-bedroom) plus 15 smallish hotel rooms, all overlooking a lovely stretch of beach. Condos have long balconies or porches, fully equipped kitchens, separate living and dining rooms, and master bedrooms with king-size beds. Colorful Mexican decor complements modern amenities like flat-screen TVs, mini air conditioners, in-room safes, Wi-Fi, and (in some) whirlpool tubs. Hotel rooms are comfortable but may feel cramped for longer stays. All units have daily maid service and share a well-tended beach with lounge chairs and palapa shades.
Hacienda de la Tortuga (tel. 984/875-9068, www.haciendatortuga.com, US$150 one-bedroom apartment, US$200 two-bedroom apartment) has just 16 rooms and cultivates a quiet, relaxed atmosphere geared toward couples. Roomy one-bedroom and two-bedroom condos all have huge ocean-view windows, plus a living room, kitchen, king-size bed(s), and air-conditioning in the bedrooms. Each is uniquely decorated, many with fine Mexican artwork and homey touches like a well-stocked bookcase. There’s a small pool just steps from the beach, and a well-regarded Mexican restaurant.
La Joya (Half Moon Bay, U.S. toll-free tel. 877/489-6600, www.i-akumal.com/condominiums, US$115-200) is a great little condominium complex with seven units on three floors, ranging from studio to four-bedroom. The condos are individually owned so they vary in decor and amenities, but all share a high level of comfort and charm, not to mention a lovely beach (with excellent snorkeling), a small newly installed pool, and stellar views from the rooftop terrace. Parking, daily maid service, 24-hour security, on-site management office, and nearby convenience store are all added bonuses.
Aventuras Akumal
Aquatech Villas DeRosa (tel. 984/875-9020, U.S. tel. 801/619-9050, www.cenotes.com, US$80 s/d, US$110-200 condo) offers hotel rooms with garden and pool views, and spacious one-, two-, and three-bedroom condominiums with ocean views and private balconies. All units have air-conditioning, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and stereos, and condos have fully equipped kitchens as well. The bedrooms are a bit dark, but you’re literally steps from a glorious white-sand beach lapped by azure water. The resort boasts a full-service dive shop, with a special emphasis on cenote diving; dive/accommodation packages are available.
Smaller and cozier than the DeRosa, Villa Las Brisas (tel. 984/875-9263, www.aventuras-akumal.com, US$45-85 s/d, US$55-90 studio, US$90-150 one-bedroom condo, US$115-230 two-bedroom condo) has just three units, two of which can be combined to make a two-bedroom condo. All are spacious, spotless, and meticulously furnished, down to a stocked spice rack in the kitchen. The condos have large terraces with hammocks and stunning views; the smaller units have balconies that overlook a tidy garden. With comfortable beds, modern Mexican-style furnishings, and space to stretch out, it’s easy to feel at home here; families are welcome. Beach chairs and umbrellas are free, while snorkel gear is available for rent. There’s a simple mini-mart at the entrance (8am-4pm Mon.-Sat.), but you’ll have to go to Akumal for additional shopping and services. There is free Wi-Fi but no air-conditioning.
Rental Properties
The majority of rooms for rent in Akumal are in privately owned homes and condos, especially along Half Moon Bay. Most are managed and rented by one of various property management companies; browse the listings of several agencies to get the best selection. Some reliable agencies include Caribbean Fantasy (www.caribbfan.com, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/523-6618), Akumal Villas (www.akumalvillas.com, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/535-1324), Akumal Rentals (www.akumal-rentals.com, U.S. tel. 815/642-4580), and Loco Gringo (www.locogringo.com, no phone).
FOOD
In Town
Lol-Ha Restaurant (Hotel Akumal Caribe, tel. 984/875-9014, www.hotelakumalcaribe.com, 7:30am-11am and 6:30pm-10pm daily, closed Oct. to mid-Nov., US$12-35) is Akumal’s finest restaurant, with a beautiful wood and stucco dining room topped with a high palapa roof that opens onto a pleasant veranda. Expect excellent seafood and Mexican and American specialties, including prime USDA steaks, grilled ahi tuna, and flambé specials prepared tableside. During high season, enjoy flamenco performances on Wednesday, and a Latin strings and percussion trio on Thursday; additional events are posted at the restaurant, and a small per-person cover charge is usually added to the bill. Reservations are highly recommended.
Next door, Lol-Ha Beach Bar (noon-9pm daily, US$8-14) serves the best hamburgers on the beach, and tasty tacos, too (the tacos de cochinita are particularly good). Three 32-inch TVs always have a sporting event on, whether Monday Night Football, March Madness, or the Kentucky Derby; hundreds of people turn out for the annual Super Bowl and Academy Awards parties (proceeds of which go to local community groups). Kids will love the adjacent game room with air hockey and foosball.
For a fresh, healthy meal, try Imelda Ecococina (no phone, 8am-9pm daily, US$3-6), next to Centro Ecológico Akumal. Breakfast options include eggs, omelets, pancakes, and French toast. For lunch, the comida corrida comes with a choice of main plate and a side dish or two. On Monday and Friday, the restaurant hosts a popular Maya buffet (7pm, US$20) followed by cumbia tunes and dancing.
In Plaza Ukana, Turtle Bay Café & Bakery (tel. 984/875-9138, www.turtlebay-cafe.com, 7am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-4pm Sun., US$5-20) offers creative comfort food like crab cakes, seafood-stuffed chiles rellenos, and “Black and Bleu” salad. For breakfast, try the famous sticky buns and eggs Benedict. Enjoy your meal surrounded by palm trees, either in the outdoor palapa-roofed dining room or on the porch of the main building. Free Wi-Fi is available.
For fresh seafood, check out La Cueva del Pescador (Plaza Ukana, tel. 984/875-9205, noon-9pm daily, US$5-25). Sink your teeth into fish kabobs, shrimp prepared nine different ways (e.g., grilled, à la tequila, with curry salsa, and so on), and lobster—most caught the day you order it. The bar is especially popular on weekends.
For groceries, the best prices are across from the Akumal turnoff on Highway 307 in Super Express Mar Caribe (Av. Gonzalo Guerrero, 7am-11pm daily); look for the store about 100 meters (328 feet) west of the highway. Otherwise, just outside the arch, Super Chomak and Supermercado El Pueblito (both 7:30am-9pm daily) charge an arm and a leg for canned and dried food, soups and pastas, fresh and packaged meat, booze, and basics like sunscreen and bug repellent. All the markets also sell fresh fruit and veggies, but you may find a better selection at the farmers market held Wednesday and Saturday in Plaza Ukana.
Half Moon Bay
A fantastic flying serpent skeleton greets diners at La Buena Vida (Vista del Mar, tel. 984/875-9061, http://labuenavidarestaurant.com, 11am-11pm daily, US$6-27), where clients enjoy the varied menu—from hamburgers to shrimp ceviche—under palapa-shaded tables on the beach. If you’ve already had lunch, consider just stopping in for a drink at the swing-lined bar; happy hour runs 5pm-7pm.
La Lunita (Hacienda de la Tortuga, tel. 984/875-9070, www.lalunita-akumal.com, 11am-11pm daily, US$8-25) is an intimate bistro serving gourmet Mexican and international dishes, both small plates or full entrées. Seafood is king here, though there are plenty of options for vegetarians and serious meat eaters. With only a handful of tables, some overlooking the Caribbean, La Lunita is a perfect place for a romantic dinner—just be sure to make reservations.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
Akumal doesn’t have an official tourist office, but it’s a small town, and you can probably find what you’re looking for by asking the first person you see. If that fails, the folks at Centro Ecológico Akumal (CEA, next to Akumal Dive Shop, tel. 984/875-9095, www.ceakumal.org, 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm Mon.-Fri.) are friendly and well informed, and most speak English.
Emergency Services
Across the highway, Akumal Medical Center (Av. Gonzalo Guerrero, tel. 984/875-9090, 984/806-4616, or 984/876-2250, 8am-4pm Mon.-Sat., on call 24/7) is the medical office of longtime Akumal provider Dr. Néstor Mendoza Gutiérrez. He also has a small office facing Plaza Ukana. Pharmacy, ambulance, and house calls are available.
The police can be reached by calling 060 from any public phone.
Money
There is no bank in town, but there are ATMs inside Akumal’s small supermarkets, near the town arch: Super Chomak and Supermercado El Pueblito (both 7:30am-9pm daily). They are sometimes out of cash, however, so plan accordingly.
Media and Communications
The post office (9:30am-3pm Tues. and Thurs.) is inside the Centro Ecológico Akumal, in the center of town.
Many hotels offer Wi-Fi to guests, as does Turtle Bay Café & Bakery (tel. 984/875-9138, www.turtlebaycafe.com, 7am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-4pm Sun.) in Plaza Ukana.
Laundry
Lavandería Mulgrew (7am-noon and 5pm-7pm Mon.-Sat.) charges US$1.75 per kilo (2.2 pounds) and provides same-day service if you drop off your load before 8:30am (2-kilo/4.4-pound minimum). Look for it next to Supermercado El Pueblito, near the town arch.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
The turnoff to Akumal is between kilometers 254 and 255 on the main highway. For Aventuras Akumal, the access road is just south of the main Akumal entrance; look for the sign to Hotel Villas DeRosa, as the community itself isn’t well signed.
Believe it or not, the Riviera Maya still has long stretches of untouched beach, including gorgeous Playa Xcacel.
© GARY CHANDLER
Combis and second-class buses stop at the Akumal turnoff, but it’s a kilometer (0.6 mile) walk into town. Likewise, you can manage the center area by foot, but walking to and from Half Moon Bay can be long, hot, and dusty. Consider hiring a cab, which are often parked just outside the town arches.
Combis and second-class buses also stop at the Aventuras Akumal entrance; it’s only about 500 meters (0.3 mile) into the community from there.
Car
If you drive into town, there is a public parking lot (7am-4pm daily, US$1.75/hour) in front of Plaza Ukana. Some shops and restaurants can validate your parking—be sure to bring your receipt. Parking is free after hours.
Taxi
Taxis gather near the Super Chomak grocery store at the entrance of Akumal, just outside of the arches. A ride from town to Laguna Yal-Ku costs US$5.
PLAYA XCACEL
For all the breakneck construction along the Riviera Maya, much of the coastline remains virtually untouched, including some gorgeous stretches of white-sand beach. Playa Xcacel (Hwy. 307 Km. 247.5, 9am-6pm daily, US$2) is one of those, a gently curving band of thick white sand, with only a small parking lot, restrooms, and changing area, and popular with local residents. Xcacel’s pristine state is thanks in part to the fact that sea turtles nest here, and development is restricted by federal law. Along the inland edge of the beach are scores of wood blades with dates on them, marking where and when sea turtles laid eggs; needless to say, do not move the markers or disturb the nests! A small freshwater cenote is located down a slippery path, about 350 meters (0.2 mile) south of the main entrance. The turnoff to Playa Xcacel is easy to miss, but it’s located 11 kilometers (7 miles) north of Tulum, just south of Chemuyil community.
Tucked innocuously between Akumal and Tulum, Tankah Tres and Soliman Bay see only a fraction of the tourist traffic that its better-known neighbors do. But that’s just the way visitors to this little stretch of coastline prefer it, enjoying excellent snorkeling, diving, and pretty beaches, with a sense of isolation that’s hard to find in these parts. The area has three small bays, and the scattered hotels, villas, and private homes along their shores were once connected by a U-shaped access road. But development cut the U in half; the southern entrance is still marked Tankah Tres, while the northern entrance has a sign for Soliman Bay.
SIGHTS AND BEACHES
Playa Tankah
The handful of hotels here have nice beachfronts along three sandy bays. If you aren’t staying at one of the hotels, Casa Cenote (1.5 kilometers/0.9 mile from the turnoff, tel. 521/984-6996, www.casacenote.com) allows nonguests to enjoy the hotel beach and lounge chairs if they order something at the restaurant.
Cenote Manatí
Across from Casa Cenote (and sometimes called by the same name), Cenote Manatí (1.5 kilometers/0.9 mile from the turnoff, no phone, sunrise-sunset, US$2) is a series of interconnected cenotes and lagoons extending from the road well inland. (An underground channel drains into the ocean.) The crystal-clear water, winding channels, and tangle of rocks, trees, and freshwater plants along the edges and bottom all make for terrific snorkeling. Look for schools of tiny fish near the surface and some bigger ones farther down.
Tankah Tres and soliman Bay are quiet getaways with just a handful of hotels and rental properties.
© LIZA PRADO
ACCOMMODATIONS
Tankah Inn (southern entrance, 1.1 kilometers/0.6 mile from the turnoff, cell. tel. 984/100-0703, U.S. tel. 918/582-3743, www.tankah.com, US$111 s/d with a/c) has five spacious rooms with murals of Maya temples. Each room has a private terrace and ocean views; all feature minifridges, drinking water, and remote-controlled air-conditioning. A breezy common room has sweeping views of the Caribbean—comfy chairs and tables, lots of board games, and an honor bar make this a popular place to hang out. The beach, with its lounge chairs and hammocks, is a tempting alternative. À la carte breakfast is included, as is use of the kayaks, snorkel gear, and Wi-Fi.
The first hotel on this bay, Casa Cenote (southern entrance, 1.5 kilometers/0.9 mile from the turnoff, tel. 521/984-6996, www.casacenote.com, US$125 s/d with shared bath, US$175 s/d with a/c) remains an area favorite. Large beachfront rooms have air-conditioning, one or two large beds, Wi-Fi, and fine ocean views. Decor is tasteful but low-key, with a large stucco relief of a Maya god in each room. There also are “eco accommodations”—very basic bungalows with shared bathroom and outdoor kitchen—that are too pricey considering how rustic they are. The hotel has a lovely beachfront pool, and Cenote Manatí is just across the street; guests can use the hotel’s kayaks and snorkeling gear as well. Breakfast is included. A large five-bedroom house also is available for rent nearby.
In the process of being renovated when we passed through, Blue Sky Hotel (southern entrance, 1.7 kilometers/1 mile from the turnoff, U.S. tel. 306/972-4283, www.blueskymexico.com, US$130-325 s/d with a/c) offers six breezy units occupying two matching towers, with views of the Caribbean that improve with each level. A nice pool faces the beach, where there are plenty of toys—kayaks, boogie boards, and snorkel gear—for guests to use. The shoreline and shallows can be quite rocky, which accounts for the excellent snorkeling but can be off-putting to some; in any case, bring water shoes.
Slice of Paradise (southern entrance, 2 kilometers/1.2 miles from the turnoff, www.sliceof-paradise.com, US$2,000/week house, US$150 casita, US$125 cabaña) lives up to its name with a spacious house, smaller “casita,” and two simple cabañas, for rent by the day or week. The house has a full-size kitchen, separate sitting and dining areas, and dramatic bay windows facing the beach. The casita also has kitchen and bath; both the house and casita have window-unit air conditioners. The two palapa-roofed cabañas are fan cooled, one with en suite bathroom, the other not. Decor is simple and tasteful throughout, and there’s Wi-Fi and daily maid service.
A gorgeous boutique hotel, Jashita Hotel (northern entrance, 1.2 kilometers/0.7 mile from the turnoff, tel. 984/139-5131, www.jashitahotel.com, US$210 s/d with a/c, US$440-1,800 suite) sits on the curving Soliman Bay. It’s an intimate place with elegant rooms that have marble floors, fine hardwoods, basin sinks, rainfall showerheads—some even have private plunge pools. The common areas are just as opulent without being snooty; if anything, the fine art and high-end furnishings make you feel like you’re staying at a very wealthy friend’s home. There’s also a great pool, a gourmet restaurant, and a breathtaking beach. Use of kayaks and snorkel gear is included in the rate, as is breakfast. There’s a minimum three-night stay; five-night minimum December 20-January 10.
FOOD
The restaurant at Casa Cenote (1.5 kilometers/0.9 mile from the turnoff, tel. 521/984-6996, www.casacenote.com, 8am-9pm daily, US$7-18) has a breezy patio dining area just steps from the ocean. You can order beach food such as quesadillas or a guacamole plate, or something heftier—the seafood is always tasty and fresh. Every Sunday at noon, the hotel hosts an awesome Texas-style barbecue (US$12.50) that is popular with expats up and down the Riviera Maya.
The Blue Sky Hotel (southern entrance, 1.7 kilometers/1 mile from the turnoff, U.S. tel. 306/972-4283, www.blueskymexico.com, 7:30am-10:30pm Tues.-Sun., 3pm-10:30pm Mon., US$7-24) specializes in Italian food, prepared to order, with simple but beautiful presentation. The pizza is famously good, handmade with fresh ingredients and baked in a custom brick oven. But appetizers like ceviche and mains like grilled calamari with vegetables are also worth sampling—you’ll just have to come back more than once! With only a handful of tables, it’s ideal for an intimate dinner.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
There are no formal services here, because it’s not really a formal town. Head to Tulum for ATMs, medical services, Internet, groceries, and more.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
The turnoff to the southern portion of Tankah Tres is between kilometers 237 and 238 on the main highway, and marked with a large road sign. Driving south from Cancún, you’ll have to overshoot the entrance a short distance until a break in the median (at Dreams Tulum Resort and Spa) allows you to make a U-turn and return to the turnoff; this access road makes a beeline for the shore, then turns abruptly to the left, hugging the beach and passing the listed hotels and sights. The access road to the northern section is a bit farther and is marked with a large sign for Lalo’s Restaurant, which is actually on the west side of the highway. If you don’t have a car, you can ask a combi to drop you at either turnoff, but it will not enter Tankah Tres or Soliman Bay itself.
