TULUM AND SOUTHERN QUINTANA ROO
Tulum has long been favored by travelers who cringe at the splashy resorts and package tourism found in Cancún (and increasingly the Riviera Maya). In that sense, Tulum is a fitting bridge between Quintana Roo’s booming northern section and its far-less-traveled south. Tulum has so far managed to avoid the impulse to fill the coast with ever-bigger resorts; prices have certainly gone up, but there are still no mega-developments here, or even power lines for that matter. Its beaches and cabañas remain as idyllic as ever.
© LIZA PRADO
Tulum’s Southern Beaches: Mile after mile of powdery white sand, tranquil turquoise water, cozy bungalows peeking out from behind softly bending palm trees: These are the beaches you’ve been dreaming of and the reason you came to the Caribbean in the first place (page 193).
Cenotes near Tulum: Sure the ocean reefs are gorgeous, but don’t miss a chance to explore these eerie and unforgettable limestone caverns, bristling with stalagmites and stalactites, and filled with the crystalline water of the world’s longest underground river system (page 193).
Bahía de la Ascensión: A huge protected expanse of calm ocean flats and tangled mangrove forests make this a world-class destination for bird-watchers and anglers. Take an all-day tour from Tulum or sit back and stay awhile at a homey lodge or bed-and-breakfast in Punta Allen (page 210).
Banco Chinchorro: A punishing two-hour boat ride across the open sea is rewarded with spectacular diving on one of the world’s largest coral atolls. And now you can stay the night, doubling your diving pleasure (page 226).
Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar: Housed in a stout star-shaped fort, this small-town museum has fascinating and innovative displays on piracy and the Caste War. It overlooks beautiful Laguna Bacalar, which the Maya called Lake of Seven Colors (page 232).
If Tulum is the anti-Cancún, you might call southern Quintana Roo the non-Cancún. Though fairly close in distance, it’s worlds apart by any other measure. Immediately south of Tulum is the massive Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, one of the Yucatán’s largest and richest preserves, whose bays, lagoons, mangrove stands, and inland forests support a vast array of plants and animals, from dolphins to jaguars; there’s even a large Maya ruin and several smaller temples. Beyond Sian Ka’an is the “Costa Maya,” a fancy term for the sparsely populated stretch of coast reaching down to the Belize border; the largest towns are Mahahual and Xcalak, with numerous small bed-and-breakfasts and seaside hotels in both (and a highly incongruous cruise ship port in Mahahual). Most of the beaches aren’t postcard perfect like Tulum’s, but the isolation—not to mention the far-less-expensive lodging—are hard to match. Inland and farther south is the multicolored Laguna Bacalar and several significant but all-but-forgotten Maya ruins. Chetumal, the state capital, isn’t much of a destination itself but has some unexpectedly appealing areas nearby, and is the gateway to Belize.
Tulum is the first stop, of course, and for many people their main destination. From Tulum you can take day trips or short over-nighters to Sian Ka’an reserve and Cobá archaeological site, both fascinating. To venture any farther south you’ll probably want a rental car, as bus service grows infrequent. Mahahual and Xcalak are certainly worth savoring; despite their isolation, there’s plenty to do in both, including snorkeling, diving, kayaking, fishing, and, of course, just relaxing. Laguna Bacalar is worth a day or possibly two, to take a boat trip on the Caribbean-like water, swim in Cenote Azul, and visit the surprisingly good history museum in town. Chetumal is a logical stopover for those headed west toward the Río Bec region or crossing into Belize, and it has an interesting Maya museum.
Tulum is the subject of a thousand postcards, and justly so. It’s hard to know if the name is more closely associated with the ancient Maya ruins—perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean—or the idyllic beaches and oceanfront cabañas that have long been the jewel of the Riviera Maya. What’s certain is that Tulum manages to capture both the ancient mystery and modern allure of Mexico’s Riviera Maya.
Tulum has definitely grown and changed, with more changes on the way. The beach used to be a haven for backpackers and bohemians, with simple cabañas facing beautiful untouched beaches. The beaches are still beautiful, but the prices have long since gone through the palapa roof, catering more to urban escapists and upscale yoga groups. It’s still a lovely place to stay, no matter who you are, just not as cheap as it used to be.
One consequence of the spike in prices on the beach is that the inland village of Tulum (aka Tulum Pueblo) has perked up significantly. Long a dumpy roadside town, it now has a growing number of hotels, B&Bs, and recommendable restaurants catering to independent travelers who have been priced out of the beachfront hotels. To be sure, a beachside cabaña will always be the most appealing place to stay in Tulum—and there are a handful of bargains still to be had—but staying in town is no longer the huge step down that it once was.
ORIENTATION
The name Tulum is used for three separate areas, which can be confusing. The first is Tulum archaeological zone, the scenic and popular Maya ruins. This is the first part of Tulum you encounter as you drive south from Cancún. A kilometer and a half (1 mile) farther south (and well inland) is the town of Tulum, known as Tulum Pueblo, where you’ll find the bus terminal, supermarket, and numerous restaurants, hotels, Internet cafés, and other shops. The third area is Tulum’s beachfront hotel zone, or Zona Hotelera. Located due east of Tulum Pueblo, the Zona Hotelera extends for almost 10 kilometers (6 miles) from the Maya ruins to the entrance of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, with fantastic beaches and bungalow-style hotels virtually the entire way. There’s a walking path, but no road, connecting the Tulum ruins to the upper end of Tulum’s Zona Hotelera.
TULUM ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE
The Maya ruins of Tulum (8am-5pm daily, US$4.75) are one of Mexico’s most scenic archaeological sites, built atop a 12-meter (40-foot) cliff rising abruptly from turquoise Caribbean waters. The structures don’t compare in grandeur to those of Cobá, Uxmal, or elsewhere, but are interesting and significant nevertheless.
Tulum is the single most frequently visited Maya ruin in the Yucatán Peninsula, receiving thousands of visitors every day, most on package tours from nearby resorts. (In fact, it’s second only to Teotihuacán, near Mexico City, as the country’s most-visited archaeological site.) For that reason, the first and most important piece of advice for independent travelers regarding Tulum is to arrive early. It used to be that the tour bus madness didn’t begin until 11am, but it creeps earlier and earlier every year. Still, if you’re there right at 8am, you’ll have the ruins mostly to yourself for an hour or so—which is about all you need for this small site—before the hordes descend. Guides can be hired at the entrance for around US$35 for 1-4 people. Bring your swimsuit if you fancy a morning swim: This is the only Maya ruin with a great little beach right inside the archaeological zone.
History
Tulum was part of a series of Maya forts and trading outposts established along the Caribbean coast from the Gulf of Mexico as far south as present-day Honduras. Its original name was Zamá-Xamanzamá or simply Zamá (derived from zamal, or dawn) but was later called Tulum, Yucatec Maya for fortification or city wall, in reference to the thick stone barrier that encloses the city’s main structures. Measuring 380 by 165 meters (1,250 by 540 feet), it’s the largest fortified Maya site on the Quintana Roo coast (though small compared to most inland ruins).
Tulum’s enviable patch of seashore was settled as early as 300 BC, but it remained little more than a village for most of its existence, overshadowed by the Maya city of Tankah a few kilometers to the north. Tulum gained prominence between the 12th and 16th centuries (the Late Post-Classic era), when mostly non-Maya immigrants repopulated the Yucatan Peninsula following the general Maya collapse several centuries prior. Tulum’s strategic location and convenient beach landing made it a natural hub for traders, who plied the coast in massive canoes measuring up to 16 meters (52 feet) long, laden with honey, salt, wax, animal skins, vanilla, obsidian, amber, and other products.
It was during this Post-Classic boom period that most of Tulum’s main structures were built. Although influenced by Mayapán (the reigning power at the time) and Central Mexican city-states, from which many of Tulum’s new residents had emigrated, Tulum’s structures mostly exemplify “east coast architecture,” defined by austere designs with relatively little ornamentation and a predominantly horizontal orientation (compared to high-reaching pyramids elsewhere). Ironically, construction in these later eras tended to be rather shoddy, thanks in part to improvements in stucco coverings that meant the quality of underlying masonry was not as precise. Today, with the stucco eroded away, Tulum’s temples appear more decayed than structures at other sites, even those built hundreds of years prior.
The Spanish got their first view of Tulum, and of mainland indigenous society, on May 7, 1518, when Juan de Grijalva’s expedition along the Quintana Roo coast sailed past the then brightly colored fortress. The chaplain of the fleet famously described the city as “a village so large that Seville would not have appeared larger or better.” Tulum remained an important city and port until the mid-1500s, when European-borne diseases decimated its population. The once-grand city was effectively abandoned and, for the next three centuries, slowly consumed by coastal vegetation. In 1840, Spanish explorers referred to an ancient walled city known as Tulum, the first recorded use of its current name; two years later the famous American/English team of John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood visited Tulum, giving the world its first detailed description and illustrations of the dramatic seaside site. During the Caste War, Tulum was occupied by members of the Talking Cross cult, including the followers of a Maya priestess known as the Queen of Tulum.
Archaeologists aren’t really sure what purpose these miniature structures (dubbed the “Shrines”) at Tulum’s Temple of the Wind served.
© LIZA PRADO
House of the Cenote
The path from the ticket booth follows Tulum’s wall around the northwest corner to two low corbel arch entryways. Using the second entrance (closest to the ocean), you’ll first see the Casa del Cenote. The two-room structure, with a third chamber added later, is less impressive than the gaping maw of its namesake cenote. The water is not drinkable, thanks to saltwater intrusion, but that may not have been the case a half millennium ago; it’s unlikely Tulum could have grown to its size and prominence without a major water source, not only for its own residents but passing traders as well. Cenotes were also considered apertures to Xibalba, or the underworld, and an elaborate tomb discovered in the floor of the House of the Cenote suggests it may have had a ceremonial function as well.
Temple of the Wind
Following the path, the next major structure is the Temple of the Wind, perched regally atop a rocky outcrop overlooking a picturesque sandy cove. If it looks familiar, that’s because it appears on innumerable postcards, magazine photos, and tourist brochures. (The view is even better from a vista point behind El Castillo, and of course from the ocean.) The name derives from the unique circular base upon which the structure is built: In Central Mexican cosmology, the circle is associated with the god of the wind, and its presence here (and at other ruins, like San Gervasio on Isla Cozumel) is evidence of the strong influence that Central Mexican migrants/invaders had on Post-Classic Maya societies.
Temple of the Descending God
One of Tulum’s more curious structures is the Temple of the Descending God, named for the upside-down winged figure above its doorway. Exactly who or what the figure represents is disputed among archaeologists—theories include Venus, the setting sun, the god of rain, even the god of bees (as honey was one of the coastal Maya’s most widely traded products). Whatever the answer, it was clearly a deeply revered (or feared) deity, as the same image appears on several of Tulum’s buildings, including the upper temple of Tulum’s main pyramid. The Temple of the Descending God also is notable for its cartoonish off-kilter position, most likely the result of poor construction.
El Castillo
Tulum’s largest and most imposing structure is The Castle, a 12-meter-high (40-foot) pyramid constructed on a rocky bluff of roughly the same height. Like many Maya structures, El Castillo was built in multiple phases. The first iteration was a low broad platform, still visible today, topped by a long palace fronted by a phalanx of stout columns. The second phase consisted of simply filling in the center portion of the original palace to create a base for a new and loftier temple on top. In the process, the builders created a vaulted passageway and inner chamber, in which a series of intriguing frescoes were housed; unfortunately, you’re not allowed to climb onto the platform to see them. The upper temple (also off-limits) displays Central Mexican influence, including snakelike columns similar to those found at Chichén Itzá and grimacing Toltec masks on the corners. Above the center door is an image of the Descending God. Archaeologists believe a stone block at the top of the stairs may have been used for sacrifices.
Temple of the Frescoes
Though quite small, the Temple of the Frescoes is considered one of Tulum’s most archaeologically significant structures. The name owes to the fading but remarkably detailed paintings on the structure’s inner walls. In shades of blue, gray, and black, they depict various deities, including Chaac (the god of rain) and Ixchel (the goddess of the moon and fertility), and a profusion of symbolic imagery, including corn and flowers. On the temple’s two facades are carved figures with elaborate headdresses and yet another image of the Descending God. The large grim-faced masks on the temple’s corners are believed to represent Izamná, the Maya creator god.
Halach Uinic and the Great Palace
In front of El Castillo are the remains of two palatial structures: the House of the Halach Uinic and the Great Palace (also known as the House of the Columns). Halach Uinic is a Yucatec Maya term for king or ruler, and this structure seems to have been an elaborate shrine dedicated to Tulum’s enigmatic Descending God. The building is severely deteriorated, but what remains suggests its facade was highly ornamented, perhaps even painted blue and red. Next door is the Great Palace, which likely served as residential quarters for Tulum’s royal court.
Practicalities
Tulum’s massive parking lot and strip-mall-like visitors complex ought to clue you in to the number of tourists that pass through here every day. (Did we mention to get here early?) You’ll find a small museum and bookshop amid innumerable souvenir shops and fast-food restaurants. (If this is your first visit to a Maya ruin, don’t be turned off by all the hubbub. Tulum is unique for its excessive and obnoxious commercialization; most sites have just a ticket booth and restrooms.)
The actual entrance and ticket booth are about one kilometer (0.6 mile) from the visitors center; it’s a flat mild walk, but there are also trolleys that ferry guests back and forth for US$2.25 per person round-trip (kids under 10 ride free).
Getting There
The Tulum archaeological zone is a kilometer (0.6 mile) north of Tulum Pueblo on Highway 307. There are two entrances; the one farther south is newer and better, leading directly to the main parking lot (parking US$4). Arriving by bus or combi, be sure to ask the driver to let you off at las ruínas (the ruins) as opposed to the town. To return, flag down a bus or combi on the highway.
BEACHES AZD CEZOTES
Northern Beaches
The road from Tulum Pueblo hits the coast near the upper end of the Zona Hotelera, which stretches from the archaeological zone down to the entrance of Sian Ka’an reserve, almost exactly 10 kilometers (6 miles). The area north of the Tulum/Zona Hotelera junction has two easy-to-reach beach areas that are ideal for people staying in town.
Playa El Paraíso (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 2 kilometers/1.2 miles north of junction, cell. tel. 984/113-7089, www.elparaisotulum.com, 8am-6pm daily, beach bar 8pm-midnight Thurs.-Sat.) is a popular beach club on a scenic beach of the same name. Once little more than a bar and some hammocks, the beach club has grown popular with tour groups and has morphed into a bustling expanse of lounge chairs, beach beds, and umbrellas (US$2-20/day), with waiters weaving between them. There’s a full restaurant and beach bar, and the nearby water sports center offers snorkeling, diving, kiteboarding, and more. It’s busy but still scenic and relaxing.
Directly north of Playa El Paraíso is Playa Mar Caribe, named after the rustic bungalows that have long fronted this portion of beach. Broad and unspoiled, this is a great place to come to lay out your towel on the soft white sand, which you share with a picturesque array of moored fishing boats. There are no services here, so be sure to bring snacks and plenty of water. (In a pinch, there’s a restaurant at the neighboring beach club.)
Southern Beaches
Tulum’s very best beaches—thick white sand, turquoise-blue water, gently bending palm trees—are toward the southern end of the Zona Hotelera. Not surprisingly, Tulum’s finest hotels are in the same area, and there are no official public access points. That said, hotels rarely raise an eyebrow at the occasional nonguest cutting through to reach the beach. You can also grab breakfast or lunch at one of the hotel restaurants and cut down to the beach afterward; in some cases, you can even use the lounge chairs.
Aimed at a mellow upscale crowd, Ana y José Beach Club (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 2.4 kilometers/1.5 miles south of junction, no phone, www.anayjosebeachclub.com, 10am-6pm daily, free) is located about a kilometer north of the resort of the same name and is open to guests and nonguests alike. An airy sand-floored dining area serves mostly seafood, including ceviche, shrimp cocktail, and grilled fish, at decent prices and has a full bar. Chaise lounges and four-poster beach beds (US$5-15/day) are arranged a bit too close together, but they are comfy and relaxing nonetheless. Monday and Tuesday are the least crowded.
Cenotes
Once a modest roadside operation, Hidden Worlds (Hwy. 307 Km. 115, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-6755, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/339-8001, www.hiddenworlds.com, 9am-sunset daily, last tour leaves at 2pm) is now a full-blown package tourist attraction, and part of the international Rainforest Adventures company. It remains a great introduction to underground snorkeling or diving, with a gorgeous on-site cenote system, frequent departures, and a staff that’s accustomed to first-timers. A basic snorkeling tour (1 cenote, 1.5 hours) runs US$35, while one-tank dives are US$135; both including gear. The ever-growing list of nondiving attractions, including ziplines and rappelling, plus combo tours like “Ultimate Adventure + CoCoBongo,” make this a fun destination for the whole family but detract somewhat from the underwater options.
Dos Ojos (Hwy. 307 Km. 117, tel. 984/877-8535, www.cenotedosojos.com, 8am-5pm daily) is located just north of Hidden Worlds but is far less commercialized. Dos Ojos, or Two Eyes, is a reference to twin caverns that are the largest openings—but far from the only ones—into the labyrinthine river system that runs beneath the ground here. You can snorkel on your own (US$10), but you’ll see a lot more on a guided snorkeling tour (US$40 pp, no reservations required); be sure to ask to visit the Bat Cave. After the tour, you’re free to keep snorkeling on your own; in fact, there are hammocks and benches, so you can bring food and drinks and make a day of it. Diving trips (US$130 for 2 tanks, maximum 4 divers per guide) should be arranged in advance. It’s two kilometers (1.2 miles) from the entrance to the cenotes, so a rental car is handy. Discounts are available if you have your own gear.
one of Tulum’s utterly perfect southern beaches
© LIZA PRADO
Other favorite cenotes include Zazil Ha, Car Wash/Aktun Ha, Gran Cenote, and Calavera Cenote (all west of Tulum on the road to Cobá); Cristal and Escondido (Hwy. 307 just south of Tulum); Casa Cenote (at Tankah Tres); Cenote Azul and Cristalina (Hwy. 307 across from Xpu-Há); and Chac Mol (Hwy. 307, 2 kilometers/1.2 miles north of Xpu-Há). All can be visited on a tour or by yourself, and most have snorkel gear for rent (US$6-8). Most are on private or ejido (collective) land and charge admission fees, usually US$3.50-6 for snorkelers and US$8.50 for divers. If you take a tour, ask if admission fees are included in the rate. Most cenotes are open 8am-5pm daily.
TOURS OF SIAZ KA’AN BIOSPHERE RESERVE
CESiaK (Hwy. 307 just south of the Tulum ruins turnoff, tel. 984/871-2499, www.cesiak.org, 8am-2pm and 4pm-8pm daily) is a longstanding nonprofit group offering excellent tours of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere, a 1.3-million-acre reserve of coastal and mangrove forests and wetlands, with pristine coral reefs and a huge variety of flora and fauna. The most popular is the “Canal Tour,” a six-hour excursion (US$78 pp) that includes taking a motorboat tour of the several lagoons, including stops to see a small Maya ruin and float down a mangrove canal. The late afternoon “Canal & Birdwatching” tour (US$78 pp) includes a boat tour of three bird-rich lagoons and a stop at the aptly named San Miguel Bird Island, or you can go by kayak (US$50, 3 hours). Most tours include hotel pickup, lunch or dinner, and a bilingual guide.
Despite being deep underground, most of the Riviera Maya’s popular cenotes are quite accessible, with stairways and interior lighting.
© LIZA PRADO
Community Tours Sian Ka’an (Calle Osiris Sur near Calle Sol Ote, tel. 984/871-2202 or cell. tel. 984/114-0750, www.siankaantours.org, 7am-9pm daily) is an excellent community-run agency offering a variety of Sian Ka’an tours, such as the Muyil route (US$99 pp, 7 hours), which begins with a visit to Muyil archaeological zone, then a boat tour of Muyil and Chunyaxche lagoons, including a chance to jump in and float down a long mangrove-edged canal; “Mayaking” in Sian Ka’an (US$45pp, 3 hours), a bird- and animal-spotting tour by kayak through the lagoons and mangroves; and a “Chicle” tour (US$99, 6 hours), where you learn about the practice of tapping chicle (gum) trees, from Maya times to today, followed by a swim in the lagoon.
ENTERTAINMENT AND SHOPPING
Entertainment
In the Zona Hotelera, the lounge bar at La Zebra (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 4.8 kilometers/3 miles south of junction, cell. tel. 984/115-4726, www.lazebratulum.com) serves up shots and mixed drinks, including its signature Zebra margarita, made with pineapple and ginger and served on the rocks. On Sunday, it hosts a salsa party from 8pm to midnight, with a free dance class at 6pm. Dinner reservations are recommended if you want to feast on pulled-pork tacos between sets.
Papaya Playa Project (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 1.5 kilometers/1 mile south of junction, cell. tel. 984/116-3774, www.papayaplayaproject) has a regular lineup of live musical acts, plus full-moon parties, bongo drum sessions, and an overall counterculture vibe. Saturdays are the main night, but look for schedules online or around town for upcoming events. Papaya Playa is actually a rustic-chic resort, hence all the cabañas, but is better known (and better liked, really) as a place to party. Most shows begin around 10pm; cover is US$5-10.
The upscale boutique resort Mezzanine (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 1.3 kilometers/0.8 mile north of junction, cell. tel. 984/113-1596, www.mezzaninetulum.com) is known as the go-to bar on Friday nights, with cool cocktails and a hip vibe.
In Tulum Pueblo, El Curandero (Av. Tulum at Calle Beta, no phone, www.curanderotulum.com, 7pm-3am Mon.-Tues. and Thurs.-Sat.) is one of several local bars cut from the same cloth: small, mood lit, with great music and a relaxed vibe. Hookahs have become a popular feature in bars in the Riviera Maya, including Tulum. El Curandero has live music weekdays (except Wednesday), electronica on Saturday, and movies on Thursday.
Waye’Rest-Bar (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Beta and Osiris) and Pepero (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Jupiter and Acuario) are alternatives.
Shopping
Mixik Artesanía (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Alfa and Jupiter, tel. 984/871-2136, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat.) has a large selection of quality folk art, from green copper suns to carved wooden angels and masks. Cool T-shirts, jewelry, cards, and more also are sold. There’s a sister shop of the same name in the Zona Hotelera.
Casa Hernández (Av. Tulum at Calle Centauro, no phone, 9am-5pm daily except Thurs.) specializes in handcrafted pottery and ceramics, mostly from Puebla. Items range from mugs and picture frames to finely painted plates and dinner sets.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Scuba Diving
The reef here is superb, but Tulum’s diving claim to fame is the huge and easily accessible network of freshwater cenotes, caverns, and caves, offering truly one-of-a-kind dive environments. Divers with open-water certification can dive in cenotes (little or no overhead) and caverns (no more than 30 feet deep or 130 feet from an air pocket) without additional training. Full-cave diving requires advanced certification, which is also available at many of Tulum’s shops. If you haven’t dived in a while, definitely warm up with some open-water dives before doing a cenote or cavern trip. Buoyancy control is especially important in such environments because of the roof above and the sediment below, and is complicated by the fact that it’s freshwater instead of saltwater, and entails gear you may not be accustomed to, namely thick wetsuits and a flashlight.
Prices for cenotes and caverns are fairly uniform from shop to shop: around US$75-110 for one tank or US$95-130 for two. Be sure to ask whether gear and admission to the cenotes are included. Shops also offer multi-dive packages, cave and cavern certification courses, and hotel packages if you’ll be staying awhile. As always, choose a shop and guide you feel comfortable with, not necessarily the least-expensive one.
If you plan on doing as much cave and cavern diving as possible, Xibalba Dive Center & Hotel (Calle Andrómeda btwn Calles Libra and Geminis, tel. 984/871-2953, www.xibalbahotel.com, 9am-7pm daily) not only has an excellent record for safety and professionalism, but now has an on-site hotel with comfortable rooms, a small swimming pool, and space to dry, store, and repair gear. Good lodging and diving packages are available. Xibalba also fills its own tanks, and offers free Nitrox to experienced clients. The shop’s name, aptly enough, comes from the Yucatec Maya word for the underworld.
Koox Dive Center (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Beta and Osiris, cell. tel. 984/118-7031, www.kooxdiving.com, 9am-sunset daily) shares a shop with a popular kiteboarding outfit, and is another reliable option for diving and snorkeling, on the reef and in cenotes.
Mot Mot Diving (Av. Tulum at Calle Beta, cell. tel. 984/151-4718, www.motmotdiving.com, 9am-9pm daily) is recommended by several hotel owners.
Cenote Dive Center (Calle Centauro at Calle Andrómeda, tel. 984/876-3285, www.cenotedive.com, 8am-4pm Sun.-Fri.) offers a large variety of tours and courses, in Tulum and beyond.
In the Zona Hotelera, Mexi-Divers (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 5, tel. 984/807-8805, www.mexidivers.com, 8:30am-5pm daily) is located opposite Zamas Hotel in the Punta Piedra area and has regularly scheduled snorkeling and diving trips, in the ocean and nearby cenotes, at somewhat lower prices.
Dos Ojos (tel. 984/877-8535, www.cenotedosojos.com, 8am-5pm daily) and Hidden Worlds (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-6755, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/339-8001, www.hiddenworlds.com, 9am-sunset daily, last tour leaves at 2pm) are located north of town and also offer excellent diving tours.
Snorkeling
Like divers, snorkelers have an embarrassment of riches in Tulum, with great reef snorkeling and easy access to the eerie beauty of the area’s many cenotes. Dive shops in Tulum offer snorkel trips of both sorts; prices vary considerably so be sure to ask which and how many reefs or cenotes you’ll visit, for how long, and what’s included (gear, entrance fees, transport, snacks, etc.). Reef trips cost US$25-40 visiting 1-3 different spots, while cenote trips run US$45-70; snorkel gear can also be rented. North of Tulum, Hidden Worlds (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-6755, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/339-8001, www.hiddenworlds.com, 9am-sunset daily, last tour leaves at 2pm) and Dos Ojos (tel. 984/877-8535, www.cenotedosojos.com, 8am-5pm daily) both offer excellent cenote snorkeling tours for US$35-40; Hidden Worlds has a lot of extras, like rappelling and ziplines, while Dos Ojos allows you to snorkel on your own—all day if you like—after the tour is over.
Kiteboarding
Extreme Control (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Beta and Osiris, tel. 984/745-4555, www.extremecontrol.net, 9am-sunset daily) is Tulum’s longest-operating kiteboarding outfit, offering courses and rentals for all experience levels and in various languages. Most classes are held at Playa El Paraíso Beach Club, north of the junction, where it also has an info kiosk. Private classes are US$72 per hour, or US$216-432 for three- to six-hour introductory packages, including equipment; group classes are somewhat less.
Morph Kiteboarding (cell. tel. 984/114-9524, www.morphkiteboarding.com) offers classes by IKO-certified instructors to all levels of kiteboarders. Rates are for private classes, though group lessons can be arranged as well: US$225, US$395, and US$420 for three-, five-, and six-hour courses, respectively. Rates include hotel pickup and transportation to the nearest kiting beach.
Ocean Pro Kite (Akiin Beach Club, Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 9.5, cell. tel. 984/119-0328, www.oceanprokite.com) is another option.
Stand-Up Paddling
Stand-up paddling, or “SUPing,” has exploded in popularity, a challenging but relatively easy sport to master, and especially well-suited to the calm clear waters found in much of the Riviera Maya. You can see a surprising amount of sealife doing SUP instead of kayaking, thanks simply to the improved vantage point.
Ocean Pro Kite (Akiin Beach Club, Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 9.5, tel. 984/876-3263 or cell. tel. 984/119-0328, www.oceanprokite.com) offers SUP lessons for all levels, starting with safety and theory on the beach, graduating to kneeling paddling, then standing and catching waves. Private classes are US$60 per hour or US$120 half day, while groups of two or three start at US$40 per person per hour. Gear, guide, transport, and refreshments are all included.
Extreme Control (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Beta and Osiris, tel. 984/745-4555, www.extremecontrol.net, 9am-sunset daily) also offers SUPing lessons (US$70 private, US$50 pp 2 pax, US$35 pp 3+ pax; 2 hours) plus tours, rentals, and transport to and from Tulum, Akumal, and Tankah. Its office in town is convenient for information and booking.
Built around a huge natural inlet, Xel-Há (Hwy. 307, 9 kilometers/5.6 miles north of Tulum, cell. tel. 984/105-6981, www.xel-ha.com, 8:30am-6pm daily, US$79 adult all-inclusive, US$119 adult with round-trip transportation, child under 12 half off, child under 5 free) is all about being in and around the water. Activities include snorkeling, snuba, tubing, and interactive programs with dolphins, manatees, and stingrays. Although it doesn’t compare to snorkeling on the reef, there’s a fair number of fish darting about, and it makes for a fun, easy intro for children and beginners. Check the website for online deals and combo packages with sister resorts Xcaret and Xplor.
Bicycling
In Tulum town, Iguana Bike Shop (Av. Satélite near Calle Andrómeda, tel. 984/871-2357 or cell. tel. 984/119-0836, www.iguanabike.com, 9am-7pm Mon.-Sat.) offers mountain bike tours to snorkeling sites at various cenotes and beaches, as well as turtle nesting grounds on Xcacel beach. Prices vary depending on the tour; they typically last four hours and are limited to six cyclists.
Tulum is known for its whimsy and artfulness, including murals like this one.
© GARY CHANDLER
Spas
Overlooking the beach at Copal hotel, Maya Spa Wellness Center (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 5, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-9537, www.maya-spa.com, 8am-8pm daily) offers a variety of massages, facials, and body wraps in a gorgeous setting. Massages run US$100 to US$150 (60-80 minutes), while other treatments average US$60 (1 hour).
Located at the Ana y José hotel, Om... Spa (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 7, tel. 984/871-2477, ext. 202, www.anayjose.com, 9am-5pm daily) is a full-service spa set in a chic beachfront setting. Choose from a menu of massages (US$80-100) and body treatments (US$60-100).
Yoga
Surrounded by lush vegetation, Yoga Shala Tulum (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 4.4, cell. tel. 984/137-3016, www.yogashalatulum.com, 7am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 4:30pm-6pm Sun.) offers a wide range of yoga instruction in its gorgeous open-air studio. Classes cost US$15 each or US$50 per week for unlimited classes. There also is an affordable hotel on-site. Look for it on the inland side of the Zona Hotelera road.
Maya Spa Wellness Center (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 5, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-9537, www.maya-spa.com, 8am-8pm daily) also offers yoga sessions.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Chances are you’ve come to Tulum to stay in one of the famous beachside bungalow-type hotels. There are many to choose from, each slightly different but most sharing a laid-back atmosphere and terrific beaches. However, some travelers are surprised by just how rustic some accommodations are, even those charging hundreds of dollars per night. The root of the matter is that there are no power lines or freshwater wells serving the beach. Virtually all accommodations have salty water in the showers and sinks. Most have fans, but not all, and electricity may be limited to nighttime hours only. Air-conditioning is available in only a handful of places. At the same time, some hotels use generators to power their restaurants and reception, so it’s worth asking for a room away from the generator; nothing is a bigger killjoy than a diesel motor pounding outside your window when the point of coming here was to enjoy the peace and quiet.
If staying on the beach is out of your budget (join the club!), staying in town is a perfectly good alternative. The options have improved significantly, with a crop of new bed-and-breakfasts and boutique hotels to go along with longtime hostels and budget digs. The beach is just a short drive or bike ride away, and prices for food, Internet, and laundry are much lower.
Zona Hotelera
UNDER US$100
A private home turned yoga hotel, Yoga Shala Tulum (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 4.4, cell. tel. 984/137-3016, www.yogashalatulum.com, US$49/69 s/d with shared bath, US$79/89 s/d) offers simple but comfortable rooms on a jungly plot on the inland side of the Zona Hotelera. Rooms have whitewashed walls, polished cement floors, and good beds and linens, with a bit of boho flair, too. Outside is an impressive open-air yoga studio with a high palapa roof and gorgeous wood floors.
Ahau Tulum (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 4.4, cell. tel. 984/167-1154 or 984/144-3348, www.ahautulum.com, US$29-99 s/d) is not exclusively a budget place—it’s got rooms that go for over US$400—but its guesthouse units (with shared bathrooms) and stick-built “Bali Huts” are among the cheapest digs on the beach. Gaps in the walls and bathrooms that never get truly clean are the price you pay to be on the sand for this cheap—a bargain for boho beachhounds.
US$100-200
Although sharing a bathroom for $100 doesn’t seem quite right, Coco Tulum (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 7, cell. tel. 984/157-4830, www.cocotulum.com, US$79-98 s/d with shared bath, US$125-195 s/d) does the basics with style. Tidy palapa-roofed bungalows have cement floors, comfy beds, hanging bookshelfs, fans, and sleek black exteriors. The shared bathrooms are actually quite nice, with modern basin sinks, rainshower heads, hot water, and thrice-daily cleaning. And if sharing a bathroom really is beyond the pale, they’ve got a tower with three deluxe rooms, each with private bathroom, fan, and stellar views. Wind- and solar-powered electricity is available 24 hours.
Accommodations at the lovely and well-liked Cabañas La Luna (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 6.5, U.S. tel. 818/631-9824, Mex. cell. tel. 984/146-7737 [urgent matters only], www.cabanaslaluna.com, US$160-300 s/d, US$550 two- and four-bedroom villas) range from cozy beachfront bungalows to spacious split-level villas, but share essential details like comfortable mattresses, high ceilings, fans and 24-hour electricity, and bright artful decor. The beach is stunning, of course, and the property is big enough for a sense of isolation, yet within walking distance of shops and restaurants in Punta Piedra. Service is excellent.
Tita Tulum (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 8, tel. 984/877-8513, www.titatulum.com, US$160-190 s/d) has a lovely beachfront and low-key atmosphere—a great option for families and travelers who prefer modest comforts and a lower rate (especially off-season) over boutique eco-chic embellishments. Ten guest rooms form a semicircle around a sandy palm-fringed lot; they’re a bit worn around the edges but have polished cement floors, clean bathrooms, and indoor and outdoor sitting areas, plus fans, Wi-Fi, and 24-hour electricity. Tita is a charming and attentive proprietor, and prepares authentic Mexican dishes in the hotel’s small restaurant.
Posada Lamar (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 6, cell. tel. 984/106-3682, www.posadalamar.com, US$125-195 s/d) has eight comfortable and artful bungalows, with salvaged-wood detailing and rich colors and fabrics. There are no fans or air-conditioning, and electricity (solar powered) is available only at night; fortunately the sea breezes keep the units cool (and the bugs at bay) most nights. The bungalows are a bit too close together, diminishing privacy, especially since you often need the windows and doors open, but the beach here is clean and beautiful, with plenty of chairs, beds, and palapas. Continental breakfast is included, served every morning on your private terrace.
Dos Ceibas (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 10, tel. 984/877-6024, www.dosceibas.com, US$80-170 s/d) has eight comfortable, if a bit garish, bungalows on a beautiful stretch of beach. Bungalows range from a top-floor honeymoon unit to a “bargain” bungalow with a detached bathroom (and near enough the road to hear passing cars). Most have polished cement floors, brightly painted walls, and firm beds with mosquito nets hanging from the palapa roof; all but the two breezy oceanfront rooms and budget rear unit have ceiling fans (electricity available at night only).
OVER US$200
Nestled in a wonderfully jungly plot, Hotel Nueva Vida de Ramiro (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 8.5, tel. 984/877-8512, www.tulumnv.com, US$105-345 s/d) has a large number (and variety) of accommodations, from spacious suites with pillow-top mattresses and gorgeous ocean views to simple thatch-roof bungalows, including some with kitchenette, and even an adults-only area. (The oldest rooms can be dark, however, and aren’t a great value, despite being cheaper.) There’s 24-hour clean power, but no air-conditioning, just fans and sea breezes. The beach here is glorious, and the hotel’s restaurant, Casa Banana, is located across the street and well-recommended for tasty, affordable meals.
Artful, spirit-minded decor is nothing new in Tulum, but Sueños Tulum (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 8.5, tel. 984/876-2152 or cell. tel. 984/115-4338, www.suenostulum.com, US$220-285 s/d) takes the theme further than most. Each of the hotel’s 12 suites is decorated according to an essential force—Earth, Rain, Moon, etc.—and there’s Maya imagery inside and out. All have ceiling fans, most rooms have ocean views, and two are reserved for families. A small clean pool is an added bonus, even with beaches as gorgeous as these. Located at the far southern end of the hotel zone, Sueños is quiet and isolated, even by Tulum’s standards.
Beachy and hip, Posada Margherita (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 4.5, tel. 984/801-8493, www.posadamargherita.com, US$208 s/d) has just eight rooms, all boasting stone-inlaid showers, private patio or terrace, and intriguing art from around the world. The beach here is lovely, and the hotel has a restaurant and lounge area just steps from the sand. Posada Margherita runs on solar energy, which means 24 hours of silent electricity. And the restaurant here is not to be missed; it’s pricey but one of the best in Tulum.
Ana y José Charming Hotel and Spa (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 7, tel. 998/889-6022 reservations or 984/871-2476 reception, www.anayjose.com, US$390-620 s/d) was one of the first resorts in Tulum to offer air-conditioning, a swimming pool, and hotel-style rooms. Though sacrilege to some—and now they’re adding TVs!—Ana y José has long been a favorite of those who love Tulum’s beaches and isolation, but not so much the beach bungalow, mosquito-net, eco-chic thing. Rooms vary from comfortable doubles, to romantic ocean-view suites, to large family apartments, most with niceties like marble floors, basin sinks, and flower petals on the bed. The inflated prices are for air-conditioning. The beach and spa are lovely, of course, and Ana y José is popular for weddings.
In Town
UNDER US$50
A stylish hostel with a laid-back vibe, Hostal Chalupa (Av. Cobá near Av. Tulum, cell. tel. 984/871-2116, www.chalupatulum.com.mx, US$17 s dorm with a/c, US$21 d dorm with a/c, US$42/50 d/q with a/c) offers air-conditioned dorms with en suite bathrooms and good mattresses; private rooms are similar in look and comfort and sleep up to four. There’s an inviting pool on the ground floor and a large rooftop solarium; movies are shown most nights at 8pm. The community kitchen is vegetarian-only. It’s located just outside town, on the road toward the beach; bikes are available for rent (US$4.25/day).
Villa Matisse (Av. Satélite at Calle Sagitario, tel. 984/871-2636, shuvinito@yahoo.com, US$50 s/d) has six simple, comfortable rooms, a pleasant garden and reading area (with book exchange), and a community kitchen. The rooms are spotless, and the grounds and common areas are equally well maintained; the multilingual owner sets out coffee and small snacks in the morning and often supplies rooms with fresh flowers. There’s no air-conditioning, but rooms have fans and good cross ventilation. Use of the hotel’s bikes is included in the rate.
Hotel Las Ruínas (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Orion and Beta, cell. tel. 984/125-5506, US$50 s/d) won’t win any awards for marketing (The Ruins Hotel?) but it does just fine as a budget option for non-hostellers. Rooms are plain and a bit dark, but reasonably clean and comfortable, with air-conditioning and TVs. No Wi-Fi, but there’s an Internet café at the corner. The hotel is run by a friendly family who live on-site.
US$50-100
Tucked into a quiet residential street, Secret Garden (Calle Sagitario near Calle Acuario, tel. 984/804-3697, www.secretgardentulum.com, US$50-60 s/d with a/c, US$70 s/d with a/c and kitchenette, US$60-70 palapa bungalow with fan and kitchenette) offers stylish, comfortable rooms at affordable rates (guests over age 15 only). Units vary in size and layout (some with kitchenettes, some with lofts), but all have fashionable colors, artful stencils, and high-end linens. Rooms open onto a long, leafy central garden with hammocks and low couches, perfect for relaxing day or night. Service is outstanding; purified water, fruit, and baked goods are offered daily.
Hotel Don Diego de la Selva (Av. Tulum s/n, tel. 984/871-2233 or cell. tel. 984/114-9744, www.dtulum.com, US$55 s/d with fan, US$90 s/d with a/c) offers spacious rooms and bungalows with classy understated decor, comfortable beds, and large glass doors looking onto a shady rear garden. There’s a large pool, and the hotel restaurant serves good French-Asian-Mexican cuisine; half-board options are available. The only catch is the location, about a kilometer (0.6 mile) south of the plaza. The hotel rents bikes, but most guests find a rental car indispensable. It’s very popular with French travelers; wireless Internet and continental breakfast are included.
Set in a leafy garden on the road to Cobá, Hotel Villas Uolis Nah (Carr. Tulum-Cobá Km. 0.2, tel. 984/876-4965, www.uolisnah.com, US$63 s/d, US$80 s/d with a/c) has six simple studios with little touches like mosquito-net canopies, mosaic-tile bathrooms, and palapa-shaded terraces with hammocks. All units have fully equipped kitchens (even ovens), and one of Tulum’s main supermarkets is just down the street. Continental breakfast, bike rental, and wireless Internet are included.
Hotel Nadet (Calle Orión at Calle Polar, 984/871-2114, www.hotelnadet.com, US$80-120 s/d with a/c) offers large, modern, reasonably priced rooms in a central location. While not luxurious, the rooms are quite nice, all with new linens, mini-split air conditioners, and well-equipped kitchenettes. Artful furnishings and decor lend a bit of color and class, and being a block off the main drag makes the hotel, which is operated by a friendly family, convenient but also quiet.
US$100-200
Rooms at Posada Luna del Sur (Calle Luna Sur 5 at Av. Tulum, tel. 984/871-2984, www.posadalunadelsur.com, US$99) are compact but tidy and pleasant, with whitewashed walls, comfortable beds (king or two doubles), and small terraces overlooking a leafy garden. Most have kitchenettes, though you may not use it much considering the tasty breakfasts and the many restaurant recommendations of the food-savvy owner-manager. The rooftop lounge is a great evening hangout, and service is excellent. The hotel is for ages 16 and over only.
A short distance from town on the road to the beach, Teetotum (Av. Cobá Sur s/n, cell. tel. 984/143-8956, www.teetotumhotel.com, US$125 s/d with a/c) has four sleek minimalist rooms—ceramic basin sinks, low bed stands—and artful decor throughout, including playful oversized murals in the dining room. All rooms have air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, and iPod docks, but no TV or telephone. Guests enjoy free continental breakfast and bike rentals, and a lovely plunge pool and rooftop sun beds, too. There’s daily yoga, and various massages and other spa treatments are available on request. The restaurant serves a little of everything, from vegetable dumplings to seafood skewers, with an equally varied (and enticing) drink menu.
Villas Gemini (Calle Andrómeda at Calle Gemini, cell. tel. 984/116-6203, www.villasgeminis.com, US$110/140 one/two bedroom, rate for 4 pax, extra pax US$20) has spacious one- and two-bedroom condos with modern kitchens and private terraces, plus a small swimming pool and 24-hour security—an amazing deal considering they sleep 4-6 people. The owners and staff are attentive and capable, and there’s maid service every three days. There’s a large supermarket nearby, plus restaurants, bars, and dive shops. The property has cable TV and Wi-Fi, and bikes for rent.
FOOD
Zona Hotelera
El Tábano (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 2.2 kilometers/1.4 miles south of junction, cell. tel. 984/134-2706, 8am-11pm daily, US$8-22.50) is Spanish for horsefly, a good sign that this is no ordinary roadside eatery. Rough wood tables on a gravel lot belie a surprisingly nuanced menu, including watermelon gazpacho, pasta-less zucchini lasagna, and fresh fish with red pipian sauce. To drink, try the fresh lemonade or something off the wine list. It can be hot midday, and mosquitoey at dusk—bring repellent.
Fusion Thai is the specialty at Mezzanine (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 1.3 kilometers/0.8 mile north of junction, cell. tel. 984/113-1596, www.mezzaninetulum.com, 8am-10pm daily, US$10-25), one of Tulum’s chicest hotels on the beach. Curries—red, green, or pineapple—and fried Thai tofu in peanut sauce are among the dishes served in a fashionable dining area or on a shaded outdoor patio, both with fine sea views. A full bar and cool music make this a place to linger.
La Zebra (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 4.8 kilometers/3 miles south of junction, cell. tel. 984/115-4726, www.lazebratulum.com, 8am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-midnight Sun., US$12-25) has a lovely beachfront patio and palapa-roofed dining area; at night, the long entry path is lit by lanterns. The menu is a bit plain—mostly standard fish and chicken dishes—but the Firestone Soup is a treat: seafood soup prepared at your table using a red-hot stone to cook the ingredients. On Sunday there’s a barbecue and salsa party starting at 8pm (free dance classes at 6pm).
Posada Margherita (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 2.4 kilometers/1.5 miles south of junction, tel. 984/801-8493, www.posadamargherita.com, 7:30am-10:30am and noon-9pm daily, US$8-30) specializes in gourmet Italian dishes, which are prepared with organic products and homemade pastas and breads. A huge tree-trunk plate of appetizers also is brought to each table (think olives, roasted red peppers, and artichoke hearts)—almost a meal in and of itself. Service is personalized to the point of having no menus—instead, the waiter typically pulls up an extra chair to discuss with you the dishes being prepared that night (ask for prices before ordering—many customers are shocked when the bill arrives). It’s busy most nights, so you may have to wait to get a table.
Casa Banana (Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen, 4.7 kilometers/2.9 miles south of junction, tel. 984/877-8512, www.tulumnv.com, 7:30am-9:30pm daily, US$5-15) serves up tasty, well-priced Mexican and Caribbean dishes in a brightly painted patio dining area. Try the motuleños, a classic Yucatecan breakfast made with fried eggs, beans, cheese, salsa, and peas all atop a fried tortilla, or the blaff, white fish marinated in lime and herbs that will transport you directly to Martinique. Casa Banana is located on the inland side of the road, opposite (and part of) Hotel Nuevo Vida de Ramiro.
In Town
One of the best breakfast places in town, Azafrán (Av. Satélite near Calle Polar, cell. tel. 984/129-6130, www.azafrantulum.com, 8am-3pm daily, US$4-9) serves up superb morning meals made with gourmet products: homemade bagels with prosciutto and Brie, crepes stuffed with an assortment of fresh fruits, chaya omelets, and pâté platters with freshly baked bread. Organic coffee is a must, as is the fresh-squeezed orange juice. The only bummer about this place is that there are only six tables—come early to beat the crowd.
Le Bistro (Calle Centauro near Av. Tulum, cell. tel. 984/133-4507, 9am-11pm daily, US$4-15) is a bustling café offering a full range of French delicacies—from freshly baked croissants to duck confit. Tables are set outdoors, either on the front porch or under umbrellas in the back courtyard; neither is very charming, but the food is so good, it’s easy to overlook.
Don’t let the nautical theme fool you: La Nave (Av. Tulum between Calles Beta and Osiris, tel. 984/871-2592, 7am-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$7-14) is more about thin crispy pizza than fish fry. Whether you go all out with a Brie and prosciutto pizza or stick with a classic margherita, you’ll leave satisfied. Pasta dishes and hefty appetizers are excellent alternatives.
El Pequeño Buenos Aires (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Orion and Beta, tel. 984/871-2708, 11am-11pm daily, US$6-25) serves excellent cuts of beef, including a parrillada Argentina, which comes piled with various cuts, plus chicken and sausage. The menu also includes crepes, a few vegetarian dishes, and lunch specials.
For seafood, don’t miss Altamar (Calle Beta near Av. Tulum, cell. tel. 998/282-8299, www.altamartulum.com, 7pm-midnight daily, US$8-15), an upscale restaurant featuring regional dishes like pan de cazón, or whole fried fish, prepared using gourmet ingredients and presented with flair. Seating is in an open-air, classy dining room just off Avenida Tulum. Cooking classes also are offered if you’re looking to increase your culinary repertoire.
Cetli (Calle Polar Norte at Calle Orion Norte, cell. tel. 984/108-0681, 5pm-10pm Thurs.-Tues., US$10-20) serves up modern Mexican creations by Chef Claudia Pérez, a Mexico City transplant and a graduate of one of Mexico’s top culinary schools. The menu is full of the unique and unexpected, from chicken and chaya roll in peanut mole to agua de pepino con yerba buena (mint cucumber water). Chef Pérez herself is a delight and often comes out to chat with diners. Reservations can be made via Facebook.
For home-style Mexican cooking, head to Don Cafeto’s (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Centauro and Orion, tel. 984/871-2207, 7am-11pm daily, US$5-18), serving Mexican staples like mole and enchiladas, plus ceviche plates that are meals unto themselves. On a hot day, try a tall cold chayagra, an uplifting blend of pineapple juice, lime juice, cucumber, and chaya (similar to spinach).
Taquería El Carboncito (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Acuario and Jupiter; 6pm-2am daily except Tues., US$1-5) serves up hot tacos at plastic tables in the driveway of an auto shop that’s closed for the night. That is, it’s a great place for a cheap tasty meal, and popular with local families.
Many say Tulum’s best seafood is at a low-key outdoor eatery just south of town called El Camello Junior (Av. Tulum at Av. Kukulkán, 10:30am-9pm daily except Wed., until 6pm Sun., US$6-12). You won’t find any argument here: Ceviche, shrimp cocktail, and made-to-order fish dishes are served super fresh, super tasty, and in generous portions. It’s a quick taxi ride or longish walk from town; don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table to open up.
Groceries and Bakeries
The Zona Hotelera’s largest market, El Pipazo (Punta Piedra, 9am-9pm daily) is one room filled with snack food, canned goods, water, liquor, and sunscreen.
For basics and then some, head to the Super San Francisco de Asis (Av. Tulum at road to Cobá, 7am-10pm daily).
Tulum Pueblo has a great local fruit and vegetable shop (6am-9pm daily) on Avenida Tulum at Calle Alfa.
A classic Mexican bakery, Carmen Tulum (Av. Tulum near Calle Osiris, 6am-11pm daily, US$0.50-1.50) is a bustling shop offering everything from fresh rolls to chocolate-filled cuernos (croissants).
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
A tourist information kiosk (no phone, 9am-5pm daily) is located on the central plaza, across from the HSBC bank. The chief attendant is quite knowledgeable, her teenage disciples less so. You often can glean useful information from the stacks of brochures there. The website www.todotulum.com also offers good information on current goings-on and offerings in Tulum.
Emergency Services
Tulum’s modest local clinic, Centro de Salud Tulum (Calle Andrómeda btwn Calles Jupiter and Alfa, tel. 984/871-2050, 24 hours), is equipped to handle minor health problems, but for serious medical issues you should head to Playa del Carmen or Cancún. Farmacia Similares (Av. Tulum at Calle Jupiter Sur, tel. 984/871-2736) is open 8am-10pm Monday-Saturday, and 8am-9pm Sunday; it also has a doctor on staff for simple consultations 9am-9pm Monday-Saturday and 9am-3pm Sunday.
The police (toll-free tel. 066, 24 hours) share a large station with the fire department, about two kilometers (1.2 miles) from Tulum Pueblo on the road to the Zona Hotelera.
Money
HSBC (Av. Tulum at Calle Alfa next to city hall, 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat.) has a reliable ATM machine and will change foreign cash and AmEx travelers checks.
ScotiaBank (Av. Tulum at Calle Satélite, 8:30am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) has reliable ATMs.
Media and Communications
On the north end of town, Yaku Ciber (Av. Satélite near Av. Tulum, 8am-midnight daily except Sat., US$1.25/hour) has flat-screen computers and killer air-conditioning.
Movistar (Av. Tulum at Calle Orion, 9am-10pm daily, US$1/hour) has Skype-enabled computers plus direct-dial international calls (US$0.25-0.40/minute).
In the Zona Hotelera, most hotels offer free Wi-Fi in the reception or restaurant area for guests.
Laundry and Storage
Lava Easy (Av. Tulum btwn Av. Satélite and Calle Centauro, 8am-8pm Mon.-Sat.) charges US$1.25 per kilo (2.2 pounds), with a three-kilo (6.6-pound) minimum.
The bus terminal (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Alfa and Jupiter, tel. 984/871-2122, 24 hours) has luggage storage for US$0.50-1.20 per hour depending on the size of the bag.
GETTING THERE
Bus
Tulum’s bus terminal (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Alfa and Jupiter, tel. 984/871-2122) is at the south end of town, a block from the main plaza.
Combi
Combis are white collective vans that zip between Tulum and Playa del Carmen all day, every day (US$3.50, 1 hour, 24 hours, every 10 minutes 5am-10pm). They leave more frequently than buses and are handier for intermediate stops, like Hidden Worlds, Dos Ojos, Akumal, and Xpu-Há. Flag them down anywhere on Avenida Tulum or Highway 307.
Combis also go to Cobá (US$4.25, 1 hour), stopping at cenotes along the way. They leave at the top of the hour from a stop on Avenida Tulum at Calle Alfa. You can also catch them at the intersection of Highway 307 and the Cobá/Zona Hotelera road.
Tukan Kin (tel. 984/871-3538, www.fromcancunairport.com) operates an airport shuttle from Tulum to Cancún airport (US$24 adult, US$12 child), with six designated pickup stops around Tulum town and door-to-door service from the Zona Hotelera. Service from the airport to Tulum also is available (US$29 adult, US$14.50 child). The trip takes just under two hours; advance reservations are required.
TULUM BUS SCHEDULE
Departures from the bus terminal (Av. Tulum btwn Calles Alfa and Jupiter, tel. 984/871-2122) include:
Car
Highway 307 passes right through the middle of Tulum Pueblo, where it is referred to as Avenida Tulum. Coming south from Cancún or Playa del Carmen, you’ll first pass the entrance to Tulum archaeological site, on your left. A kilometer and a half later (1 mile) you’ll reach a large intersection, where you can turn left (east) toward the beach and Zona Hotelera, or right (west) toward Cobá. Continuing straight ahead takes you into Tulum Pueblo, then onward to the Costa Maya.
GETTING AROUND
Bicycle
A bike can be very handy, especially for getting to or from the beach, or anywhere along the now-paved road through the Zona Hotelera. Iguana Bike Shop (Av. Satélite near Calle Andrómeda, tel. 984/871-2357 or cell. tel. 984/119-0836, www.iguanabike.com, 9am-7pm Mon.-Sat.) rents a variety of bikes, including beach cruisers (US$10 for 24 hours) and mountain bikes (US$13-15 for 24 hours), most in top condition. The owner also leads enjoyable tours to area cenotes and villages (which accounts for the shop sometimes being closed unexpectedly). Rates vary, but include a helmet, front and back lights, lock, and basket, as well as life and accident insurance. English is spoken. Attachable trailer-bikes for children are also available.
Tikul Bike Rental (Av. Tulum at Calle Acuario, cell. tel. 984/114-4657, 8am-10pm daily) rents bikes (US$6/day) and motorscooters (US$29/day), plus snorkel gear (USUS$4.25/day). Helmets are available for scooters only.
Beach Shuttle
There is a local colectivo (US$1-1.25) that goes from Tulum town to the arch at the southern end of the Zona Hotelera, and back again, starting at 6am. The last bus leaves the arch at 4pm. Catch it in front of the Palacio Municipal (Calle Osiris near Av. Tulum; departures at the top of the hour) or anywhere along Avenida Tulum or on the road to and along the beach.
The Weary Traveler Hostel (Av. Tulum near Calle Acuario, tel. 984/871-2390, www.wearytravelerhostel.com, US$1) operates a beach shuttle that goes north along the Zona Hotelera road. Its final stop is at Playa Maya and Don Cafeto restaurant near the Tulum ruins. Shuttles leave from the hostel at 7am, 9am, and 11:45am, returning at 12:15pm and 5pm.
Bus schedules do change, however, so always confirm the current departures.
Car
A car can be very useful in Tulum, especially in the Zona Hotelera, even if you don’t plan on using it every day. Renting a car from the airport in Cancún is the easiest and most affordable option for most travelers, especially if you book online and in advance. In Tulum, agencies include:
• Hertz (Hwy. 307 at Carr. Tulum-Cobá, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/709-5000, www.hertz.com, 7am-10pm daily), located next to Super San Francisco supermarket.
• Thrifty (Av. Cobá Sur at Calle Sol Ote, tel. 987/869-2957, www.thrifty.com, 8am-2pm and 4pm-6pm daily).
• Avis (Av. Cobá Sur at Calle Sol Ote, cell. tel. 984/120-3972, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/288-8888, www.avis.com, 8am-8pm daily).
Taxi
Taxis are plentiful, and fares run about US$2 in town and US$6-10 to get to the Zona Hotelera (depending on where exactly you’re going). In the Zona Hotelera, there is a taxi stand in Punta Piedra; rates are roughly the same within the Zona Hotelera or back into Tulum Pueblo. From either area, a ride to Tulum ruins costs about US$4.
Sian Ka’an is Yucatec Mayan for “where the sky is born,” and it’s not hard to see how the original inhabitants arrived at such a poetic name. The unkempt beaches, blue-green sea, bird-filled wetlands and islets, and humble accommodations are manna for bird-watchers, artists, snorkelers, and kayakers. But most visitors come here for the fishing. Sian Ka’an is one of the best fly-fishing spots in the world, with all three Grand Slam catches: bonefish, tarpon, and permit.
The reserve was created in 1986, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, and expanded in 1994. It now encompasses around 1.3 million acres of coastal and mangrove forests and wetlands, and some 113 kilometers (70 miles) of pristine coral reefs just offshore. A huge variety of flora and fauna thrive in the reserve, including four species of mangrove, many medicinal plants, and about 300 species of birds, including toucans, parrots, frigate birds, herons, and egrets. Monkeys, foxes, crocodiles, and boa constrictors also populate the reserve and are spotted by locals and visitors with some regularity. Manatees and jaguars are the reserve’s largest animals but also the most reclusive: You need sharp eyes and a great deal of luck to spot either one. More than 20 Maya ruins have been found in the reserve, though most are unexcavated.
Spending a few days in Sian Ka’an is the best way to really appreciate its beauty and pace. Hotels and tour operators there can arrange fishing, bird-watching, and other tours, all with experienced local guides. But if time is short, a number of tour operators in Tulum offer day trips into the reserve as well.
SIGHTS
Muyil Archaeological Zone
The most accessible Maya site within the Sian Ka’an reserve is Muyil (Hwy. 307, 25 kilometers/15.5 miles south of Tulum, 8am-5pm daily, US$3), on the western edge of the park. Also known as Chunyaxché, it is one of the oldest archaeological sites in the Maya world, dating back to 300 BC and occupied continuously through the conquest. It’s believed to have been primarily a seaport, perched on a limestone shelf near the edge of Laguna Muyil; it is connected to the Caribbean via a canal system that was constructed by ancient Maya traders and still exists today.
Only a small portion of the city has been excavated, so it makes for a relatively quick visit. There are six main structures ranging from two-meter-high (6.6-foot) platforms to the impressive Castillo. At 17 meters (56 feet), it is one of the tallest structures on the peninsula’s Caribbean coast. The Castillo is topped with a unique solid round masonry turret from which the waters of the Caribbean Sea can be seen. Unfortunately, climbing to the top is prohibited.
A sacbé (raised stone road) runs about a half kilometer (0.3 mile) from the center of the site to the edge of the Laguna Muyil. Part of this sacbé is on private property, however, so if you want to access the lagoon from the ruins—you also can get to it by car—there is an additional charge of US$3.50 per person. Along the way, there is a lookout tower with views over Sian Ka’an to the Caribbean.
Once you arrive at the water’s edge, it’s possible to take a boat tour (US$45 pp) that crosses both Muyil and Chunyaxché Lagoons, which are connected by a canal that was carved by the ancient Maya in order to reach the ocean. It’s a pleasant way to enjoy the water, and you’ll also get a view of several otherwise inaccessible ruins along the lagoons’ edges and through the mangroves, with the final stop being Xlapak ruins, a small site thought to have been a trading post. If arriving by car, look for signs to Muyil Lagoon on Highway 307, just south of the similarly named archaeological site. More thorough tours of this part of Sian Ka’an can be booked in Tulum.
Bahía de la Ascensión
Ascension Bay covers about 20 square kilometers (12.4 square miles), and its shallow flats and tangled mangrove islands teem with bonefish, tarpon, and huge permit—some of the biggest ever caught, in fact. It is a fly fisher’s dream come true, and it has been attracting anglers from around the world since the mid-1980s. Don’t fly-fish? No worries: The spin fishing is also fantastic, while the offshore reef yields plenty of grouper, barracuda, dorado, tuna, sailfish, and marlin.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Sportfishing
Sportfishing is world-class in and around Sian Ka’an—it’s hard to go wrong in the flats and mangrove islands, or with the Caribbean lapping at its shores. All the hotels listed in this section arrange fishing tours, and most specialize in it, using their own boats and guides. If you prefer to go with an independent operator, recommended outfits include Pesca Maya (7 kilometers/4.3 miles north of Punta Allen, tel. 998/848-2496, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/894-5642, www.pescamaya.com, 8am-7pm daily); the Palometa Club (Punta Allen, north of the central plaza, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/824-5420, www.palometaclub.com, 8am-6pm daily); and Club Grand Slam (near the entrance to Punta Allen, cell. tel. 984/139-2930, www.grandslamfishinglodge.com).
Weeklong fly-fishing trips range US$2,750-3,750 per person, in shared room and shared boat, depending largely on the style and comforts afforded by the lodge. Most packages include airport transfer, daily guided fishing, meals, and admission to the reserve, but it’s always a good idea to confirm this before booking. For private room or private boat, expect to pay an additional US$100-200 per day; shorter trips are available, but may incur extra transportation costs to and from the airport. Fishing day trips can be arranged through most hotels; rates start at around US$400 for a private full-day tour, including lunch and admission and license fees. Variations like renting gear, adding people, and half-day options can also be arranged.
a stately pyramid at Muyil archaeological zone, just inside the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve
© LIZA PRADO
Bird-Watching
Sian Ka’an is also an excellent place for bird-watching. Trips to Bird Island and other spots afford a look at various species of water birds, including male frigates showing off their big red balloon-like chests in the winter. Tours often combine bird-watching with snorkeling and walking around one or more bay islands. Hotels in Punta Allen and along the coastal road can arrange tours, as can outfits in Tulum. Prices are typically per boat, so don’t be shy to approach other travelers in town about forming a group.
In Punta Allen, Punta Allen Coop (no phone, 6:30am-2pm daily) is a local cooperative that offers bird-watching tours (US$120-145, 2-3 hours, up to 6 pax); look for their two-story wooden shack along the main road near the entrance to town. Other operators to consider include CESiaK (Hwy. 307 just south of the Tulum ruins turnoff, tel. 984/871-2499, www.cesiak.org, 9am-2pm and 4pm-8pm daily); Community Tours Sian Ka’an (Tulum, Calle Osiris Sur near Calle Sol Ote, tel. 984/871-2202, www.siankaantours.org, 7am-9pm daily); and, if your budget permits, Visit Sian Ka’an (Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, Carr. Tulum-Punta Allen Km. 15.8, cell. tel. 984/141-4245, www.visitsiankaan.com), which offers customized private tours.
Kayaking
The tangled mangrove forests, interconnected lagoons, and scenic bays make Sian Ka’an ideal for kayaking. CESiaK (Hwy. 307 just south of the Tulum ruins turnoff, tel. 984/871-2499, www.cesiak.org, 9am-2pm and 4pm-8pm daily) offers kayak tours (US$50, 3 hours) and rentals for do-it-yourself exploration (US$25/35 s/d, 3 hours). Community Tours Sian Ka’an (Tulum, Calle Osiris Sur near Calle Sol Ote, tel. 984/871-2202, www.siankaantours.org, 7am-9pm daily) is another good option.
Cozumel and the Riviera Maya are well known for trolling and deep-sea fishing, while Ascension Bay and the Costa Maya have terrific fly-fishing. Although you can hook into just about any fish at any time of the year, below is information on the peak and extended seasons for a number of top target species. Those fish not listed — tuna, barracuda, yellowtail, snapper, grouper, and bonefish — are prevalent year-round.
SPORTFISHING
FLAT-WATER FISHING
Punta Allen is the only town on the peninsula and has the most options for lodging, food, tours, and other services. Along the long unpaved road leading there is a smattering of lodges and private homes, amid miles and miles of deserted coastline. Note: The town of Punta Allen often switches off the electricity grid at midnight—and hotels outside of town are entirely off the grid—so air-conditioning and TV are not functional unless the establishment has a generator. (Fans work as long as the hotel has solar or wind power.) If you’re staying in a room with kitchen facilities, keep the fridge shut as much as possible to conserve the cold.
Toward Punta Allen
Just four kilometers (2.5 miles) from Tulum, Boca Paila Camps (tel. 984/871-2499, www.cesiak.org, US$65-80 s/d with shared bathrooms) has spacious “tent cabins”—heavy-duty canvas tents set on platforms—with real beds, tasteful decor, and terraces with views of the Caribbean or lagoon. All share bathrooms with rainwater showers, compost toilets, and 24-hour lighting. The cabins themselves don’t have electricity, but candles and battery-powered lamps are provided. There’s a restaurant in the main building, where guided kayaking, bird-watching, and fly-fishing tours also can be arranged.
Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of Punta Allen, Sol Caribe (cell. tel. 984/139-3839, www.solcaribe-mexico.com, US$185 s/d, US$175-250 cabaña, US$100/40 extra per adult/child all-inclusive) offers modern rooms and cabañas set on a breezy palm-tree-laden beach. All feature en suite bathrooms with tropical woods, terraces with hammocks, 24-hour electricity (fan only), and gorgeous views of the ocean—a true hidden getaway of the Riviera Maya. There’s a full-service restaurant on-site, too.
Boca Paila Camps, just inside the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, offers terrific views from deluxe “tent cabins.”
© LIZA PRADO
For more luxury that you’d rightly expect in a remote natural reserve, Grand Slam Fishing Lodge (near the entrance to town, cell. tel. 984/139-2930, toll-free U.S. tel. 855/473-5400, www.grandslamfishinglodge.com, US$45-55 s/d with a/c) has gigantic guest rooms in two-story villas, each with one or two king-size beds, fully-stocked minibars, marble bathrooms, and satellite service on large flat-screen TVs, plus 24-hour electricity for air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. The grounds include a tidy beach and aboveground pool, both with drink service, and a spacious restaurant-lounge. Guides and boats are first-rate.
Punta Allen
Casa de Ascensión (near the entrance to town, tel. 984/801-0034, www.casadeascensionhotel.com, US$41-50 s/d with a/c) is a small hotel with three brightly painted rooms, each with quiet air-conditioning, hot-water bathrooms, and Wi-Fi (two also have satellite TV). The owner, a longtime expat, lives on-site and provides attentive service, including breakfast to order in the hotel’s 2nd-floor restaurant and recommendations for area tours.
Facing the central plaza, Posada Sirena (tel. 984/877-8521, www.casasirena.com, US$38-75 s/d) offers simple Robinson Crusoe-style rooms. Most are quite spacious, sleeping 6-8 people, and all have private bathrooms, fully equipped kitchens, and plenty of screened windows to let in the ocean breeze. Area excursions, including fly-fishing, snorkeling, and bird-watching, can be arranged on-site.
The accommodations at Serenidad Shardon (road to the lighthouse, cell. tel. 984/107-4155, www.shardon.com, US$8.50-17 pp camping, US$150 s/d, US$200 s/d with kitchen, US$250 two-bedroom apartment for up to 5 guests, US$350 beach house for up to 10 guests) vary from oceanfront cabañas to a large beach house; all have basic furnishings but are clean and well equipped. You also can camp using your own gear, or rent deluxe tents with real beds, electric lighting, and fans; access to hot showers and a full kitchen is included, too.
A dedicated fishing lodge, The Palometa Club (north of the central plaza, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/824-5420, www.palometaclub.com) has just six rooms in a two-story structure facing the beach. Each has tile floors, a private bathroom, and two double beds. Meals are served family-style, with cocktails and snacks (including fresh-made ceviche) available at the club’s outdoor bar, après fishing. The Palometa is designed for serious anglers, with a fly-tying study, one-to-one guiding, and an emphasis on landing permits (palometa in Spanish, hence the name). Non-anglers are welcome if accompanying a fishing guest. The all-inclusive seven-night/six-day rate is US$3,650 per person (non-anglers US$2,000 per person). Rates are for shared room and boat; for private room, add US$100/night; for private boat, add US$200/day. Shorter packages are available but may include additional airport transfer fees.
FOOD
Punta Allen isn’t a foodie’s village, but it does have a handful of eateries, all specializing in fresh seafood. A few mini-marts and a tortilleria round things out a bit, especially if you’re planning on staying more than a couple of days.
Restaurants
With a gorgeous view of the Caribbean, Muelle Viejo (just south of the central plaza, no phone, 11am-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$6-14) serves up fresh seafood dishes and cold beers—perfect for a long lazy lunch.
Taco Loco (just north of the central plaza, no phone, 8am-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$3-8) is a locals’ joint with good, cheap eats.
The hotel restaurant at Casa de Ascensión (tel. 984/801-0034, www.casadeascensionhotel.com, 8am-10pm daily, US$4-17) offers a wide variety of Mexican dishes, pizza and pasta, and (of course) seafood. Seating is outdoors, under a large palapa. It’s located two blocks from the beach, near the entrance to town.
Groceries
There are three mini-marts in town: on the north end (near the road to the lagoon-side dock), south end (two blocks west of Cuzan Guesthouse), and near the central plaza (one block west). Each sells basic foodstuffs and snacks, though you may have to visit all three to find what you’re looking for. If you plan to cook a lot, stock up on supplies in Tulum.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Don’t expect much in the way of services in Sian Ka’an—if there is something you can’t do without, definitely bring it with you. There are no banking services, and few of the hotels or tour operators accept credit cards. There is one Internet café (9am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-2pm Sat., US$1/hour), located inside a mini-mart near the southwest corner of the central plaza; many hotels have Wi-Fi. Cell phones typically don’t work in Sian Ka’an, but there are public telephones in town. Punta Allen also has a modest medical clinic—look for it on the main road as you enter town. There is no laundry, but most hotels will provide the service.
GETTING THERE
Many of the hotels include airport pickup/drop-off, which is convenient and helps you avoid paying for a week’s car rental when you plan on fishing all day. That said, a car is useful if you’d like to do some exploring on your own.
Bus
Public transport to and from Punta Allen is unpredictable at best—build some flexibility into your plans in case of missed (or missing) connections.
A privately run Tulum-Punta Allen shuttle (cell. tel. 984/115-5580, US$21, 3 hours) leaves Tulum at 2pm most days. You can catch it at the taxi station on Avenida Tulum between Calles Centauro and Orion, or anywhere along the Zona Hotelera road; advance reservations are required. To return, the same shuttle leaves Punta Allen for Tulum at 5am.
the road to Punta Allen, in the heart of Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve
© LIZA PRADO
On July 18, 1847, a military commander in Valladolid learned of an armed plot to overthrow the government that was being planned by two indigenous men—Miguel Antonio Ay and Cecilio Chí. Ay was arrested and executed. Chí managed to escape punishment and on July 30, 1847, led a small band of armed men into the town of Tepich. Several officials and Euro-Mexican families were killed. The military responded with overwhelming force, burning villages, poisoning wells, and killing scores of people, including many women, children, and elderly. The massacre—and the longstanding oppression of indigenous people at its root—sparked spontaneous uprisings across the peninsula, which quickly developed into a massive, coordinated indigenous rebellion known as the Caste War.
Indigenous troops tore through colonial cities, killing and capturing scores of non-Maya. In some cases, the Maya turned the tables on their former masters, forcing them into slave labor, including building the church in present-day Carrillo Puerto’s central plaza. Valladolid was evacuated in 1848 and left abandoned for nearly a year, and by 1849, the peninsula’s indigenous people were close to expelling the colonial elite. However, as they were preparing their final assaults on Mérida and Campeche City, the rainy season came early, presenting the Maya soldiers with a bitter choice between victory and (were they to miss the planting season) likely famine. The men turned their backs on a hard-fought and near-certain victory to return to their fields to plant corn.
Mexican troops immediately took advantage of the lull, and the Maya never regained the upper hand. For the next 13 years, captured indigenous soldiers (and increasingly any indigenous person) were sold to slave brokers and shipped to Cuba. Many Maya eventually fled into the forests and jungles of southern Quintana Roo. The fighting was rekindled when a wooden cross in the town of Chan Santa Cruz (today, Carrillo Puerto) was said to be channeling the voice of God, urging the Maya to keep fighting. The war ended, however, when troops took control of Chan Santa Cruz in 1901. An official surrender was signed in 1936.
You also can get to Punta Allen from Carrillo Puerto, a slightly cheaper but much longer and more taxing trip. State-run combis leave from the market in Carrillo Puerto (a block from the main traffic circle) for a bone-jarring four-hour trip down a private road to the small settlement of Playón (US$10, 10am and 3pm daily), where water taxis wait to ferry passengers across the lagoon to Punta Allen (US$2.50 pp, 15 minutes). The combi back to Carrillo Puerto leaves Playón at 6am.
Car
To get to Punta Allen by car, head south along the coast through (and past) Tulum’s Zona Hotelera. About eight kilometers (5 miles) from the Tulum/Zona Hotelera junction is el arco (the arch), marking the reserve boundary where you register and pay a US$4 per person park fee. From there it’s 56 kilometers (35 miles) by dirt road to Punta Allen. The road is much improved from years past, and an ordinary car can make it in 2-3 hours. It can be much more difficult after a heavy rain, however. Be sure to fill the tank in Tulum—there is no gas station along the way or in Punta Allen, though some locals sell gas from their homes.
CARRILLO PUERTO
Highway 307 from Tulum to Chetumal passes through Carrillo Puerto, a small city that holds little of interest to most travelers except an opportunity to fill up on gas. Historically, however, it played a central role in the formation of Quintana Roo and the entire peninsula.
History
Founded in 1850, the town of Chan Santa Cruz (present-day Carrillo Puerto) was the center of a pivotal movement during the Caste War. As the Maya lost ground in the war, two indigenous leaders enlisted a ventriloquist to introduce the Cruz Parlante (Talking Cross) in Chan Santa Cruz. The cross “spoke” to the battle-weary population, urging them to continue fighting, even issuing tactical orders and predicting victory in the long, bitter conflict. Thousands joined the sect of the cross, calling themselves Cruzob (a Spanish-Maya conflation meaning People of the Holy Cross). Some accounts portray the talking cross as little more than political theater for a simpleminded audience, while others say most Cruzob understood it as a ruse to instill motivation. Some people, of course, believe in the cross’s divinity. Whatever the case, it reinvigorated the Maya soldiers, and Chan Santa Cruz remained the last redoubt of organized indigenous resistance, finally submitting to federal troops in 1901. Once residing in Carrillo Puerto’s Santuario de la Cruz Parlante, the Talking Cross is today housed in a small sanctuary in the town of Tixacal.
CARRILLO PUERTO BUS SCHEDULE
Departures from the bus terminal (Calle 65 near central plaza, tel. 983/834-0815) include:
The town’s name was changed in 1934 in honor of a former governor of Quintana Roo, much revered by indigenous and working-class people for his progressive reforms, for which he was ultimately assassinated.
Sights
The Santuario de la Cruz Parlante (Calle 69 at Calle 60, no phone, irregular hours, free) is a sacred place where the Talking Cross and two smaller ones were originally housed (they now reside in the nearby town of Tixacal). Today, there are several crosses in their place, all dressed in huipiles, which is customary in the Yucatán. Shoes and hats must be removed before entering. Be sure to ask permission before snapping any photographs.
Carrillo Puerto’s main church, the Iglesia de Balam Nah (facing the central plaza, no phone), was reportedly built by white slaves—mostly Spaniards and light-skinned Mexicans—who were captured during the Caste War. It was constructed in 1858 to house the Talking Cross and its two companion crosses because the original sanctuary had become too small to accommodate its worshippers. Unfortunately, at the end of the Caste War, federal troops used the church as an army storeroom, desecrating it in the eyes of many Maya; this led to the transfer of the Talking Cross to the town of Tixacal.
Despite outward appearances, Maya nationalism is still very much alive, and its adherents are not blind of the sometimes invasive effects of mass tourism. Don’t miss the beautifully painted Central Plaza Mural, next to the Casa de Cultura, that reads: La zona Maya no es un museo etnográfico, es un pueblo en marcha (The Maya region is not an ethnographic museum, it is a people on the move).
Accommodations
Owned and operated by one of the founding families of the city, Hotel Esquivel (Calle 63 btwn Calles 66 and 68, tel. 983/834-0344, US$35 s/d with fan, US$42 s/d with a/c, US$55 suite with a/c and kitchenette) offers 37 rooms in four buildings, each with private bathroom and cable TV. The main building has by far the best rooms—gleaming tile floors, simple furnishings, decent beds, and even some with balconies overlooking a pleasant park. The suite is in the large house across the street—once the family home, it’s now dark and dilapidated, and desirable only for having a kitchen.
Food
Parrilla Galerías (Calle 65 s/n, tel. 983/834-0313, 5:30pm-midnight daily, US$3-10) opens right onto the central plaza and offers traditional Mexican fare and grilled meats. Come here for the tacos and the parrillada, a platter piled high with an assortment of meats, grilled onions, and tortillas.
El Faisán y el Venado (Av. Benito Juárez at Calle 67, tel. 983/834-0043, 6am-10pm daily, US$5-8) is Carrillo Puerto’s best-known restaurant, as much for its location and longevity than for any particular noteworthiness of its food. The menu is filled with reliable Yucatecan standards, including 8-10 variations of fish, chicken, and beef, plus soup and other sides.
Information and Services
The tourist office (Av. Benito Juárez at Av. Santiago Pacheco Cruz, tel. 983/267-1452) is open 8am-2pm and 6pm-9pm Monday-Friday.
The Hospital General (Calle 51 btwn Av. Benito Juárez and Calle 68, tel. 983/834-0092) is open 24 hours daily. Try Farmacia Similares (Av. Benito Juárez at Av. Lázaro Cárdenas, tel. 983/834-1407, 8am-10:30pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-10:30pm Sun.) for meds.
The police department (central plaza, tel. 983/834-0369, 24 hours) is located in the Palacio Municipal (city hall).
Next to the PEMEX station, HSBC (Av. Benito Juárez at Calle 69, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-3pm Sat.) has one 24-hour ATM.
The post office (Calle 69 btwn Calles 64 and 66) is open 9am-4pm weekdays. Facing the central plaza, Balam Nah Internet (8am-1am daily) charges US$1 per hour.
Getting There
Carrillo Puerto’s bus terminal (tel. 983/834-0815) is just off the central plaza, with service to Mahahual, Chetumal, Cancún, Mérida, and elsewhere.
If traveling by car, fill your gas tank in Carrillo Puerto, especially if you’re headed to Mahahual, Xcalak, Xpujil, or Ticul. There are other roadside gas stations ahead (and in Chetumal), but they get less and less reliable—having either no gas or no electricity to pump it—as the stretches of empty highway grow longer and longer.
The coastline south of Tulum loops and weaves like the tangled branches of the mangrove trees that blanket much of it. It is a mosaic of savannas, marshes, lagoons, scattered islands, and three huge bays: Bahía de la Ascensión, Bahía del Espiritu Santo, and Bahía de Chetumal. Where it’s not covered by mangroves, the shore has sandy beaches and dunes, and just below the turquoise sea is one of the least-impacted sections of the great Mesoamerican Coral Reef. Dozens of Maya archaeological sites have been discovered here, but few excavated, and much remains unknown about pre-Hispanic life here. During the conquest, the snarled coastal forest proved an effective sanctuary for indigenous rebels and refugees fleeing Spanish control, not to mention a haven for pirates, British logwood cutters, and Belizean anglers.
In the 1990s, Quintana Roo officials launched an effort to develop the state’s southern coast, which was still extremely isolated despite the breakneck development taking place in and around Cancún. (It has always been a famous fly-fishing area, however.) The first order of business was to construct a huge cruise ship port, which they did in the tiny fishing village of Mahahual. They also needed a catchy name, and came up with “la Costa Maya.” The moniker generally applies to the coastal areas south of Tulum, particularly the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve; the towns of Mahahual and Xcalak; Laguna Bacalar; and Chetumal, the state capital and by far the largest city in the area. Few locals use the term, of course.
It’s hard not to be a little cynical about cruise liners coming to such a remote area, whose entire population could fit comfortably on a single ship. The town of Mahahual, nearest the port, is utterly transformed when cruise ships arrive, their passengers moseying about Mahahual, beer bottles in hand, the beaches packed with sun worshippers serenaded by the sound of Jet Skis. Then again, it’s doubtful the area would have paved roads, power lines, or telephone service if not for the income and demand generated by cruise ships. Driving down the old rutted coastal road to Xcalak (an even smaller town south of Mahahual) used to take a half day or more; today, a two-lane paved road has cut the trip to under an hour. The state government has vowed to control development by limiting hotel size and density, monitoring construction methods, and protecting the mangroves and coral reef. Small ecofriendly bed-and-breakfasts have thrived, not surprisingly, and more and more independent travelers are drawn to the Costa Maya for its quiet isolation and pristine natural beauty.
MAHAHUAL
Mahahual is a place of two faces: cruise ship days, when the town’s one road is packed with day-trippers looking to buy T-shirts and throw back a few beers; and non-cruise-ship days, when Mahahual is sleepy and laid-back, and the narrow white-sand beaches are free to walk for miles. Whether you stay here a night or a week, you’re likely to see both, which is a good thing. You can be in a major party zone one day, and the next be the only snorkeler in town—all without changing hotels. If you seek long quiet days every day, though, definitely stay outside of town.
Whether or not there is a cruise ship in town, Mahahual is pretty easy to manage. Most of its hotels and services are located on, or just off, Avenida Mahahual (aka El Malecón), the three-kilometer (1.9-mile) pedestrian walkway that runs through town until it meets up with the coastal road heading south, the Carretera Antigua (literally, Old Highway). Just northwest of town, the tiny residential community of Las Casitas (aka Nuevo Mahahual) has additional restaurants, Internet, and laundry services.
Sports and Recreation
SCUBA DIVING
Mahahual has terrific diving on the coral reef just offshore, with dozens of sites a short boat ride away. It’s also one of two jumping-off points for trips to Chinchorro Bank, the largest coral atoll in the Northern Hemisphere. The other departure point is Xcalak, south of Mahahual.
Don’t be deterred by the slew of cruise shippers who crowd into Dreamtime Dive Resort (Av. Mahahual Km. 2.5, cell. tel. 983/124-0235, www.dreamtimediving.com, 9am-7pm daily)—the shop is an indie operation at heart and sends its students and “regular” guests on separate boats in groups of six divers or fewer. Fun dives cost US$50 for one tank, US$75 for two, and US$20 per day for rental equipment. Open-water, advanced, and other courses are also available.
Bucanero del Caribe (Av. Mahahual Km. 2, cell. tel. 983/120-5306, www.divemahahual.com, 9am-5pm daily) offers personalized service for independent travelers. Dive trips run US$55 for one tank, US$85 for two, including all equipment and a guide.
SNORKELING
You can rent snorkel gear for around US$5-10 a day from the dive shops or from the kiosks that pop up on cruise ship days. Swim or kayak out to the reef for a do-it-yourself experience, or join a guided tour, where you’ll likely see more sealife, plus have extra safety and convenience. Mahahual’s dive shops all offer guided snorkel trips for US$25-35 per person, including gear and about 90 minutes in the water.
TOURS
The Native Choice (Las Casitas, Av. Paseo del Puerto at Calle Chinchorro, tel. 998/869-3346, www.thenativechoice.com) is a small operation run by David Villagómez and Ivan Cohuo, both born and raised in the small village of Chacchoben and extremely knowledgeable about nearby ruins, Maya history, culture, and belief systems. Tours include visiting the archaeological sites of Chacchoben, Kohunlich, or Dzibanche (US$70-90 adult, US$60-85 child), a “Mayan Experience Tour,” which includes touring Chacchoben ruins and a visit to a home in Chacchoben village (US$70 adult, US$65 child), plus a kayaking and hiking trip on and around Laguna Bacalar (US$55 adult, US$40 child). The tours are geared toward the cruise ship crowd, but hotel owners warmly recommend the outfit to independent travelers as well.
a glimpse of Mahahual’s beautiful waterfront
© LIZA PRADO
Accommodations
Many of Mahahual’s lodgings, especially the ones with beachfront, are outside of the village itself, along the Carretera Antigua that hugs the coast south of town. The rest are in town, either on the Malecón or a stone’s throw away.
IN TOWN
Under US$50: Set on a grassy lot facing the ocean, Las Cabañas del Doctor (Av. Mahahual Km. 2, tel. 983/832-2102, www.lascabanasdeldoctor.com, US$6.75 pp camping, US$33-45 cabaña, US$45-75 s/d, US$75 s/d with a/c) has a good range of accommodations: camping on the beach with access to cold-water bathrooms (BYO gear); cabañas—palapa-roofed units with tile floors and fans; and hotel rooms, which are a step up in comfort and décor, plus they have private porches.
Kabañitas de Colores (Calle Almeja at Calle Huachinango, cell. tel. 983/137-4095, US$25 s, US$30 d) has a handful of brightly painted clapboard cabañas. There’s not much to them: a bed, a fan, a bare bulb, a tiny cold-water bathroom. They’re clean, though, and there’s electricity 24/7. With the beach a stone’s throw away, there’s not much more you really need.
US$50-100: Posada Pachamama (Calle Huachinango btwn Calles Martillo and Coronado, cell. tel. 983/134-3049, www.posadapachamama.net, US$67-75 s/d with a/c) is a small hotel a block from the beach. Rooms are small but appealingly decorated with modern furnishings and stone-inlaid floors. All have air-conditioning and wireless Internet; the higher-priced rooms include Sky TV. Guests also enjoy complimentary use of the beach club at Los 40 Cañones, just down the street.
With direct access to the beach and a rooftop bar with a spectacular view, Hotel Caballo Blanco (Malecón btwn Calles Martillo and Coronado, cell. tel. 983/126-0319, www.hotelelcaballoblanco.com, US$75-108 s/d with a/c) is a great place to land. Rooms are standard issue: modern and comfortable with air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs, and Wi-Fi. The only quirk? Murals of old-world villages in some of the rooms.
Luna de Plata (Av. Mahahual Km. 2, cell. tel. 983/125-3999, www.lunadeplata.info, US$67-92 s/d with a/c) is a restaurant-hotel offering a handful of rooms with tasteful decor. Hot water, quiet air-conditioning, and Wi-Fi cover the basic creature comforts. More expensive rooms have Sky TV, too. Town is an easy walk away, and there’s a patch of beach and a dive shop in front.
OUTSIDE OF TOWN
US$50-100: Owned and operated by friendly Canadian expats, Balamku Inn on the Beach (Carr. Antigua Km. 5.7, tel. 983/732-1004, www.balamku.com, US$85 s, US$95 d) offers artfully decorated rooms in a handful of palapa-roofed buildings. All run on solar power, wind turbines, and a nonpolluting wastewater system. Full breakfast is included, as is use of the hotel’s kayaks, board games, and music and book library. Wi-Fi is available in all the rooms, too.
Kohunbeach (Carr. Antigua Km. 7, cell. tel. 983/700-2820, www.kohunbeach.blogspot.com, US$50 s/d) offers three spacious cabañas on the beach. Each has a queen bed, a foldout futon sofa, picture windows, and a mosaic-tile bathroom. All are solar powered. Kayaks and plenty of hammocks are available to guests, too. Continental breakfast is included and delivered to your porch.
Maya Luna (Carr. Antigua Km. 5.6, tel. 983/836-0905, www.hotelmayaluna.com, US$92 s/d) has four modern bungalows with 24-hour solar/wind power, rainwater showers, and palapa-shaded porches. Each has a private rooftop terrace with views of the Caribbean in front and the jungle in back. A hearty and healthy breakfast also is included in the rate. A friendly dog and a handful of cats live—and roam about—the hotel grounds, too.
For a rustic getaway, Kabah-na (Carr. Antigua Km. 8.6, cell. tel. 983/116-6919, www.kabahna.com, US$67-75 s/d, US$84-100 s/d with kitchenette) has seven simple cabañas, each slightly different, sleeping 3-6 people. All have fans, palapa roof, and cold-water showers; those closest to the beach are a bit more polished. There’s a decent restaurant on-site, and even a dive and tour guide offering personalized scuba, snorkeling, and other excursions. Guests can make free use of kayaks, snorkel gear, hammocks, and Wi-Fi.
Over US$100: With fully equipped kitchens, the studio apartments at Margarita del Sol (Carr. Antigua Km. 7, tel. 555/350-8522, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/473-1934, www.margaritadelsol.com, US$120 studio) are a great option if you want to save a bit on meals. The units themmezzanes are spacious and modern; each has an eating area, a private porch or terrace with an ocean view, and features like wireless Internet and DVD players (plus free access to a decent library of DVDs). Use of kayaks and snorkel gear is also included.
About 20 minutes south of town, Almaplena Eco Resort and Beach Club (Carr. Antigua Km. 12.5, cell. tel. 983/137-5070, www.almaplenabeachresort.com, US$140-160 s/d) is a small boutique resort with just eight rooms facing a gorgeous isolated stretch of beach. All have king-size beds, ceiling fans (no air-conditioning), cool stone floors, and tasteful decor. Suites are on the top floor and have private terraces, while standards share a wooden patio with direct access to the beach. Continental breakfast is included, and the on-site restaurant serves fine Italian and Mexican meals. The Italian owners provide friendly and attentive service.
About 21 kilometers (13 miles) north of Mahahual, Mayan Beach Garden Inn (Placer town, cell. tel. 983/130-8658, www.mayanbeachgarden.com, US$96-125 s/d, US$125 s/d with kitchenette, US$25 extra for a/c at night) has several rooms and one cabaña, all with whitewashed walls and Mexican-style decor, most with ocean views. A hearty breakfast is included in the rate, as are Wi-Fi and the use of kayaks. All-inclusive meal packages are also available. In the high season, there’s a three-night minimum.
Food
IN TOWN
With a sand floor, plastic tables, and palapa roof, 100% Agave (Calle Huachinango btwn Calles Sierra and Cherna, no phone, 8am-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$4-10) won’t let you forget that you’re at the beach—even if you’re a block away. Serving up simple Mexican classics with monster-size drinks, this is a great place to check out the local scene. If it’s packed, take a whole roasted chicken to go; it comes with tortillas, potatoes, and grilled onions (US$6).
An open-air eatery and beach club, Nohoch Kay (Big Fish in English, Malecón btwn Calles Liza and Cazón, no phone, 8am-7pm Mon.-Tues., 8am-10pm Wed.-Sun., US$5-12) serves up some of the best fish tacos in town. Thick pieces of fish—fried or grilled—are served with small tortillas, onion, cilantro, and plenty of lime. On cruise ship days, it gets overrun with clients, but otherwise it’s a laid-back place to get a beachfront meal.
Ki’i Taco (Calle Huachinango at Calle Cherna, no phone, 11am-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$2-6) offers equally good fish tacos without the cruise ship scene. For a treat, order the garlic shrimp tacos.
Luna de Plata (Av. Mahahual Km. 2, cell. tel. 983/125-3999, www.lunadeplata.info, 11:30am-3:30pm and 6pm-midnight daily, US$8-30) serves well-prepared Italian dishes, from thin crispy pizzas to freshly made pasta with shrimp or lobster.
If you’re cooking for yourself, consider buying fresh lobster from the local lobster fisherman’s co-op, Centro de Acopio de Langosta (Calle Huachinango near Calle Almeja, no phone, 7am-7pm daily). At this roadside shack, you can take your pick of lobsters; they generally sell for US$30 per kilo (2.2 pounds). Fresh conch also is sold here for about US$16 per kilo.
OUTSIDE OF TOWN
A longtime favorite, Travel In’ (Carr. Antigua Km. 5.8, cell. tel. 983/110-9496, www.travel-in.com.mx, 5:30pm-9pm Tues.-Sat., US$5-20) is a great little restaurant a few kilometers down the coastal road. Pita bread is baked fresh every day—order it as an appetizer with an assortment of homemade dips. Daily seafood specials vary according to the day’s catch, plus every Wednesday is tapas night. Open on Mondays from Christmas to Easter.
In Las Casitas, Aroma (Las Casitas, Av. Paseo del Puerto s/n, tel. 983/834-5740, 7am-midnight Mon.-Fri., 5pm-midnight Sun., US$4-14) is a cool corner bistro with an open kitchen. An international menu offers respite from standard Mexican fare, with items such as gazpacho, moussaka, and beef medallions in soy balsamic sauce. Wi-Fi is available, too.
Kitty-corner from Aroma, Loco Ricky’s (Las Casitas, Av. Paseo del Puerto s/n, cell. tel. 983/105-3978, 11am-11pm Tues.-Sun., US$4-14) serves up classic American fare, including burgers, onion rings, and pizza. The bar has a large-screen TV for big games, and the staff makes everyone feel at home (or at least at their hometown sports bar).
For basic groceries, try Minisuper Noé (Las Casitas, Av. Paseo del Puerto near Calle Kohunlich, 8am-11pm daily).
Information and Services
Cruise ships have brought considerable modernization to this once-isolated fishing village, but services are still somewhat limited.
EMERGENCY SERVICES
The Centro de Salud (Calle Coronado btwn Calles Huachinango and Sardina, no phone, 8am-2:30pm daily, after 5pm emergencies only) offers basic health services. For serious health matters, head to Chetumal.
For meds, try Pharmacy Mérida (Calle Sardina btwn Calles Rubia and Sierra, cell. tel. 983/132-1845, 7am-11pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-11pm Sat.-Sun.), the best-stocked pharmacy in town.
The police department (Calle Huachinango near Calle Martillo, toll-free Mex. tel. 066) is open 24 hours.
MONEY
There is no bank in town, but there are a handful of ATMs, all along El Malecón. At the time of research, however, none were affiliated with local banks, so withdrawal charges were hefty. Another option is to go to the gas station outside of town, where there’s an HSBC ATM (though it often runs out of cash); alternatively, consider bringing enough money to get you through your stay.
MEDIA AND COMMUNICATIONS
In Mahahual proper, head to V@mos (Calle Cherna between El Malecón at Calle Huachinango, cell. tel. 983/106-4647, 9am-3pm and 7pm-9pm daily, US$1.75 per hour) for Internet service. If there’s a long wait and you’ve got a car, head to Las Casitas, where Mobius Internet (9am-9pm Mon.-Sat.) charges US$3 per hour and offers international telephone service, too (US$0.30-0.60/minute calls to the United States and Europe). Most hotels and some restaurants offer wireless Internet as well.
LAUNDRY
Lavandería 4 Hermanos (Calle Huachinango near Calle Rubia, 7am-8pm daily) offers same-day laundry service for US$1.25 per kilo (2.2 pounds).
In Las Casitas, try Qué Limpio (Calle Chacchoben 24, 8am-6pm Mon.-Sat.), which charges US$1.25 per kilo (2.2 pounds). Service takes a day or two.
VOLUNTEER WORK
Global Vision International (www.gvi.co.uk) operates a popular volunteer-for-pay program just north of Mahahual, in partnership with Amigos de Sian Ka’an, a local nonprofit. GVI “expeditions,” as they are called, last 4-12 weeks. Fees are reasonable considering how much diving is involved (including open-water scuba certification, if needed): US$3,052 for 4weeks, US$5,772 for 12 weeks, including room, board, and equipment, but not airfare. Advance registration is required, as the center is not designed to handle walk-ins. GVI also has programs in Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve as well as at the private inland reserve El Eden.
Getting There and Around
Just south of the grubby roadside town of Limones, a good paved road with signs to Mahahual breaks off Highway 307 and cuts through 58 kilometers (36 miles) of coastal forest and wetlands tangled with mangroves. It’s a scenic stretch, whether in a car or on a bus, along which you can see occasionally egrets, herons, and other water birds.
Mahahual proper is very walkable—in fact, the main road that runs through town, El Malecón, is a three-kilometer (1.9-mile) pedestrian walkway. If you’re staying outside of town, a car certainly comes in handy, but plenty of people manage without; dive shops and tour operators typically offer hotel pickup, and there are cabs and a local bus.
BICYCLE
Bike rentals are offered at Costa Maya Tours (Calle Cherna between El Malecón at Calle Huachinango, cell. tel. 983/106-4647, 9am-3pm and 7pm-9pm daily) for US$2.50 per hour, US$7.50 per half day, and US$12.50 per day. Nacional Beach Club and Bungalows (Calle Huachinango near Calle Coronado, tel. 983/834-5719) also rents bikes at similar rates.
BUS
Mahahual’s bus terminal is a modest affair—an open-air lot near the entrance of town—but daily first-class service makes coming and going a breeze. Buses to Cancún (US$23, 5 hours) leave at 8:30am and 1pm daily, stopping at Carrillo Puerto (US$8.25, 2 hours), Tulum (US$14.50, 3 hours), Playa del Carmen (US$17, 3.5 hours), and Puerto Morelos (US$19, 4 hours) along the way. To Chetumal (US$10, 2.5 hours) and Laguna Bacalar (US$7, 1.5 hours), buses depart at 7:30am and 6:30pm daily. All buses stop in Limones (US$7, 1.5 hours). The ticket booth is open a short time before and after scheduled departures only.
Note: Buses entering Mahahual stop in Las Casitas before arriving at the bus terminal; be sure you get off at the latter if you’re headed to the beach or any of the hotels.
There also is occasional bus service to Xcalak (Mon.-Sat., US$3); buses pass through the center around 9am and drive down the coastal road, passing most of the hotels there before joining the main paved road into Xcalak. The bus heading back to town from Xcalak passes the outlying hotels around 3:30pm.
CAR AND TAXI
There is a PEMEX gas station (24 hours) on the main road to Mahahual, just east of the turnoff to Xcalak. It occasionally runs out of gas, so definitely fill your tank in Carrillo Puerto or Chetumal on your way here.
Note: There’s often a military checkpoint set up just west of the turnoff to Xcalak, where officials conduct searches for illicit drugs and other contraband. As long as you or your passengers don’t have anything illegal in the car, the longest you should be delayed is a couple of minutes.
Cabs abound in this town, especially on cruise ship days. In general, rates run US$1.25 per kilometer (0.6 mile).
AIRPORT
Mahahual has a small airport just outside of town. Well, it’s more like a well-maintained airstrip with a nice shelter. At the time of research, it was only used by private or chartered planes.
XCALAK
The tiny fishing village of Xcalak lies just a short distance from the channel that marks the Mexico-Belize border, and a blessed long way from anything else. The town started out as a military outpost and didn’t get its first real hotel until 1988. Villagers had to wait another decade to get a paved road; before that, the only way in or out of town was by boat or via 55 kilometers (34 miles) of rutted beach tracks. Electrical lines were installed in 2004 but only in the village proper, so many outlying areas (including most of the better hotels) still rely on solar and wind power, as well as generators. The town has no bank, no public phones, and no gas station. That is to say: perfect!
The area doesn’t have much beach but makes up for it with world-class fly-fishing, great snorkeling and diving, and a healthy coral reef and lagoon. A growing contingent of expats, mostly American and Canadian, have built homes here, some for personal use, others for rent, others as small hotels. Large-scale tourism may be inevitable but still seems a long way off, and Xcalak remains a small and wonderfully laid-back place, perfect for those looking for some honest-to-goodness isolation.
Sights
PARQUE NACIONAL ARRECIFES DE XCALAK
Xcalak Reef National Park was established at the end of 2003, affording protection to the coastal ecosystem as well as Xcalak’s nascent tourist economy. The park spans nearly 18,000 hectares (44,479 acres), from the Belize border to well north of town, and includes the reef—and everything else down to 100 meters (328 feet)—as well as the shoreline and numerous inland lagoons.
The main coral reef lies just 90-180 meters (100-200 yards) from shore, and the water is less than 1.5 meters (5 feet) deep almost the whole way out. Many snorkelers prefer the coral heads even closer to shore, which have plenty to see and less swell than the main reef. The shallow waters keep boat traffic to a minimum, and anglers are good about steering clear of snorkelers (you should still stay alert at all times, however).
Divers and snorkelers also can explore the reef at 20 or so official sites and many more unofficial ones. Most are a short distance from town, and shops typically return to port between tanks. La Poza is one of the more distinctive dives, drifting through a trench where hundreds, sometimes thousands, of tarpon congregate, varying in size from one-meter (3-foot) “juveniles” to two-meter (7-foot) behemoths.
Kayaking is a great way to enjoy the Costa Maya.
© LIZA PRADO
A fee of US$5 per day technically applies to all divers and snorkelers (and kayakers and anglers) in the Parque Nacional Arrecifes de Xcalak; dive shops typically add it to their rates, while most hotels have a stack of wristband permits to sell to guests who want to snorkel right from shore.
BANCO CHINCHORRO
Chinchorro Bank is by some measurements the largest coral atoll in the Northern Hemisphere and a paradise for divers and snorkelers alike. About 48 kilometers (30 miles) northeast from Xcalak, Chinchorro is a marine reserve and is known for its spectacular coral formations, massive sponges, and abundant sealife. Scores of ships have foundered on the shallow reefs through the years, but (contrary to innumerable misreports) the wrecks cannot be dived. Not only are they protected as historical sites, but most are on the eastern side of the atoll, where the surf and currents are too strong for recreational diving. The famous 40 Cannons wreck, in about three meters (10 feet) of water on the atoll’s northwest side, is good for snorkeling but not diving, and thanks to looters there are far fewer than 40 cannons there. There are small government and fishermen’s huts on one of the three cays, Cayo Centro; as of 2010, tourists are finally permitted to stay overnight, which means spectacular multiday diving and snorkeling opportunities.
Sports and Recreation
SCUBA DIVING AND SNORKELING
XTC Dive Center (north end of town, across bridge, no phone, www.xtcdivecenter.com, 9am-5pm daily) is a full-service dive shop that specializes in trips to Chinchorro Bank; its acronym officially stands for “Xcalak to Chinchorro,” though the nearby ecstasy-inducing dives surely figured into the name. Trips to Chinchorro are US$199 per person for two tanks or US$149 per person for snorkelers, including lunch, drinks, and a hike on Cayo Centro, the main cay; multiday trips also are available. To get to Chinchorro, it’s a 1.5- to 2-hour boat ride, which can be pretty punishing depending on conditions. Groups typically set out around 7am and return to port around 4:30 or 5pm. Dive shops usually require at least five divers or six snorkelers (or a combination of the two) and may not go for days at a time if the weather is bad (summer months are best). Closer to home, reef dives cost US$60 for one tank, US$90 for two; equipment costs extra. Snorkel tours run US$30-65 per person depending on how long and far you go; five-hour trips include jaunts into Chetumal Bay and Bird Island, which can be fascinating, especially in January and February when the birds are most plentiful. A 10 percent tax applies to most rates.
Costa de Cocos (3 kilometers/1.9 miles north of town, no phone, www.costadecocos.com) also offers diving, as does Casa Carolina (2.5 kilometers/1.6 miles north of town, U.S. tel. 610/616-3862, www.casacarolina.net). Prices at all three shops are comparable.
SPORTFISHING
Xcalak also boasts world-class sportfishing, with huge saltwater and brackish flats where hooking into the grand slam of fly-fishing—tarpon, bonefish, and permit—is by no means impossible. Add a snook, and you’ve got a super slam. Oceanside, tarpon and barracuda abound, in addition to grouper, snapper, and others. Costa de Cocos (3 kilometers/1.9 miles north of town, no phone, www.costadecocos.com) is the area’s oldest fishing resort, with highly experienced guides and numerous magazine write-ups. Three- to seven-night packages include transfer to and from the airport, lodging, meals, open bar, and, of course, nonstop fly-fishing (US$1,830-4,105 s, US$1,420-3,095 d). Hotel Tierra Maya (2.1 kilometers/1.3 miles north of town, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/216-1902, www.tierramaya.net) also offers fly-fishing packages for 3-7 nights (US$1,370-3,605 s, US$770-2,099 d), though they don’t include all the perks that the Costa de Cocos packages do. The dive shops, as well as most hotels, also can arrange guided fishing tours.
Accommodations
Xcalak’s most appealing accommodations are on the beach road heading north out of town. Few places accept credit cards on-site, but many have payment systems on their websites.
UNDER US$50
Xcalak Caribe (south of the lighthouse, no phone, www.xcalakcaribe.com, US$37.50 s/d) has large clean rooms, each with ceiling fan and private bathroom, just steps from the beach. The expat owners are friendly and attentive, and the restaurant here, specializing in Mediterranean-style seafood, is outstanding.
Right at the entrance of town, Cabañas Tío Bon (cell. tel. 983/836-6954, US$25 s/d) is a basic but reasonably clean option. Three wood cabins alongside the owner’s home—you share a front gate—have tiny private bathrooms, fan, and 24-hour electricity. The plywood interior and lack of hot water will prevent any confusion between Uncle Bon’s and the Westin.
US$50-100
Hotel Tierra Maya (2.1 kilometers/1.3 miles north of town, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/216-1902, www.tierramaya.net, US$90-100 s/d, US$150 apartment) is a pleasant hotel with ample rooms decorated with simple furnishings and colorful Mexican rugs. All have private terraces or balconies with views of the Caribbean. Continental breakfast is included in the rate and served in the hotel’s excellent beachfront restaurant. Fly-fishing and dive packages are also available.
Xcalak’s first hotel and oldest fishing and diving lodge, Costa de Cocos (3 kilometers/1.9 miles north of town, no phone, www.costadecocos.com, US$78 s, US$90 d) eschews fluff and formality for a jocular laid-back atmosphere that’s perfectly suited to its clientele. Simple wood-paneled cabañas are comfortable enough, with tile floors and hot water, and surround a well-kept sandy lot. Travelers looking for “charming” won’t find it here, and that seems to be just how it’s preferred. Continental breakfast is included.
US$100-150
It’s hard not to feel at home at Sin Duda (8 kilometers/5 miles north of town, U.S. tel. 415/868-9925, www.sindudavillas.com, US$84 s/d, US$110 studio, US$120 apartment), a gem of hotel with beautifully decorated rooms featuring Mexican folk art and breathtaking views. Evening often brings cocktail hour, when guests can join the friendly American hosts for margaritas in the cozy lounge that doubles as a common kitchen and library. A healthy continental breakfast, brought to your room, is included in the rate.
Four cheerful units with fully equipped kitchenettes make Casa Carolina (2.5 kilometers/1.6 miles north of town, U.S. tel. 610/616-3862, www.casacarolina.net, US$100 s/d) a great choice for indie travelers. Add ocean views from private balconies and a wide beach with palm trees, and it’s a classic beach vacation. Co-owner Bob Villier is an experienced NAUI dive instructor and offers personalized certification classes plus diving and snorkeling trips. Continental breakfast, with divine homemade muffins, is included.
OVER US$150
Playa Sonrisa (6.9 kilometers/4.3 miles north of town, no phone, www.playasonrisa.com, US$135-175 s/d, US$175-225 suite) is a clothing-optional resort on a palm-tree-laden stretch of beach. Units are clean and comfortable, though they lack the charm that you’d expect for the rate. What you mostly pay for is the freedom to enjoy the Caribbean in the buff. A continental breakfast buffet is included in the rate, as is Wi-Fi. Geared at naturist couples, the hotel welcomes naturist families during the low season only. Day passes are available to naturist couples, too (10am-sunset, US$20 pp).
Food
The Leaky Palapa (2 blocks north of the lighthouse, no phone, www.leakypalaparestaurant.com, hourly seatings 5:30pm-8:30pm Thurs.-Sun., Nov.-May only, US$16-23) is a gourmet restaurant with boho flair and a menu that changes according to the day’s catch and market offerings. It is invariably delicious, though, with such dishes as homemade ravioli with huitlacoche (corn fungus), lobster, and squash flower cream as well as snapper on a bed of plantain mash with green coconut salsa. Reservations are required and only cash is accepted.
Locally run Restaurant Toby (center of town, across from volleyball court, cell. tel. 983/107-5426, 11am-10pm Mon.-Sat., US$5-10) is a popular seafood restaurant serving up, among other tasty dishes, heaping plates of ceviche, coconut shrimp, and fish soup. It’s a friendly, low-key place perfect for a beer and a good meal after a day of diving or relaxing on the beach. Wi-Fi is available, too.
Xcalak Caribe (no phone, www.xcalakcaribe.com, 11am-3pm and 5:30pm-10pm Tues.-Sun., US$5-20) serves seaside standards like ceviche and garlic grilled fish, as well as Mediterranean specialties, like paella and Gallego-style octopus. Cocktails are served from a bar artfully fashioned from the hull of an old fishing boat. Restaurant options are slim in Xcalak, but the tasty dishes, friendly service, and casual atmosphere would make this a popular eatery anywhere. Look for the palapa-roofed building just south of the lighthouse, facing the beach.
The Maya Grill (Hotel Tierra Maya, 2.1 kilometers/1.3 miles north of town, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/216-1902, www.tierramaya.net, 5pm-9pm daily, US$12-22) is a beachfront hotel restaurant offering fresh ingredients in its Mexican-inspired meals. As expected, seafood is the focus, but chicken and meat dishes edge their way onto the menu, too. Dinners are pricey but hearty.
The restaurant at Costa de Cocos (3 kilometers/1.9 miles north of town, no phone, www.costadecocos.com, 7am-10pm daily, US$5-28) serves up burgers, steak, pizza, and all manner of tall tales—though with fishing as good as it is, many just happen to be true. The service is seriously lacking, but the schedule, reservations policy (none required), and full bar make it a reliable option.
A popular culinary event is the weekly chicken barbecue at Maya Campground (north end of town, across bridge, no phone, US$5), held every Wednesday afternoon. Come early to get the best of the bird, which is served with coleslaw and beans.
If you are cooking for yourself, a grocery truck passes through town and down the coastal road several times per week—ask at your hotel for the current schedule. It comes stocked with eggs, yogurt, grains, basic produce, fresh meats, and canned food. You also can buy a broom or two. In town, there are a handful of small mini-marts selling basic canned and dried foods. Most are open daily 9am-9pm.
Information and Services
Xcalak has no bank, ATM, or currency—exchange office, and only a few places take credit cards—plan accordingly!
There’s a basic health clinic (no phone, 8am-noon and 2pm-6pm Mon.-Fri.) two blocks from the soccer field, near the entrance of town.
Most hotels have Wi-Fi; in a pinch many hotel owners will let you use their computers to send a quick email. For more time on the net, San Jordy (center of town, hours vary, US$4/hour) is a reliable Internet café. To make an international or domestic call, head to Telecomm/Telégrafos (near The Leaky Palapa, 9am-3pm Mon.-Fri.).
Getting There and Around
Bus service is somewhat erratic in Xcalak. Theoretically, buses bound for Chetumal (with stops in Mahahual and Limones) leave twice daily, typically around 5am and 2pm (US$7, 4-5 hours), but it’s not unusual for one or both departures to be delayed or canceled. Upon arrival, your hotel may send a car to pick you up; otherwise a taxi from town is about US$10.
Most travelers come in a rental car, which certainly simplifies life here. The closest gas station is on the main road to Mahahual, near the turnoff for Xcalak. However, it occasionally runs out of gas, so you should fill up on Highway 307 as well—Carrillo Puerto is a good spot. In a pinch, a few Xcalak families sell gas from barrels in their front yards; ask your hotel owner for help locating them.
If your budget permits, there also is a well-maintained airstrip approximately 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) west of town. Despite rumors that commercial flights will begin using it regularly, at the time of research, it was only used sporadically by private or chartered planes.
CHACCHOBEN ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE
Chacchoben (8am-5pm daily, US$4) got its name from archaeologists who, after uncovering no inscription indicating what the city’s original residents called it, named it after the Maya village to which the land pertained. The meaning of that name is also lost, even to local villagers, though the accepted translation is Place of Red Corn. The area may have been settled as early as 1000 BC, and most of the building activity probably took place AD 200-700, the Classic period.
Visiting the Ruins
Entering the site, a short path leads first to Temple 24, a squat pyramid that is the primary structure of a small enclosed area called Plaza B. Across that plaza—and the larger Gran Plaza beyond it—is a massive raised platform, the Gran Basamento, with the site’s largest pyramid, Temple 1, atop it; this pyramid is believed to have served astronomical and religious purposes. Also on the platform, two smaller structures, dubbed Las Vasijas and Los Gemelos, were likely used for ceremonial functions. The site has some well-preserved stucco and paint, and for that reason none of the pyramids can be climbed. Though it can get crowded when there’s a cruise ship at Mahahual, Chacchoben has an appealingly remote feel, nestled in the forest with towering mahogany and banyan trees, and paths dotted with bromeliads.
Practicalities
Chacchoben is located about 70 kilometers (43 miles) north of Mahahual and 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) west of Limones. By car, take Highway 307 and turn west at the sign to Chacchoben ruins and like-named town, about 3 kilometers (1.9 miles) down a well-paved road. Alternatively, take a bus to Limones and then a cab (US$5) to the ruins.
Almost 50 kilometers (31 miles) long, Laguna Bacalar is the second-largest lake in Mexico and certainly among the most beautiful. Well, it’s not technically a lake: A series of waterways do eventually lead to the ocean, making Bacalar a lagoon, but it is fed by natural springs, making the water on the western shore, where the hotels and town are, 100 percent agua dulce (fresh water).
The Maya name for the lagoon translates as Lake of Seven Colors. It is an apt description, as you will see on any sunny day. The lagoon’s sandy bottom and crystalline water turn shallow areas a brilliant turquoise, which fades to deep blue in the center. If you didn’t know better, you’d think it was the Caribbean.
The hub of the Laguna Bacalar region is the town of Bacalar. Located on the west side of the lake, it won’t win any prizes for charm, but it does have a terrific museum, one of the best hotels around, a handful of decent restaurants, and, of course, gorgeous views of the lagoon.
Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar is a restored fort with an excellent museum inside.
© LIZA PRADO
SIGHTS AND EVENTS
Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar
The mid-18th-century Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar (central plaza, no phone, Av. 3 at Calle 20, 9am-7pm Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., 8am-8pm Fri.-Sat., US$5) was built by the Spanish for protection against English pirates and Maya that regularly raided the area. In fact, attacks proved so frequent—and successful—that the fort was captured in 1858 by Maya during the Caste War. It was not returned to Mexican officials until 1901. Today, the star-shaped stone edifice has been restored to its former glory: drawbridge, cannons, moat, and all. The fort also houses the excellent Museo del Fuerte de San Felipe Bacalar, a modern museum with exhibits on the history of the area, including details on the pirates who regularly attacked these shores.
Cenote Azul
As good or better than Laguna Bacalar for swimming, Cenote Azul (Hwy. 307 Km. 15) is two kilometers (1.2 miles) south of town. It’s the widest cenote in Mexico, some 300 meters (984 feet) across at its widest, and 150 meters (492 feet) deep, with crystalline blue water. A rope stretches clear across, so even less-conditioned swimmers can make it to the far side. A large, breezy restaurant (tel. 983/834-2038, 7:30am-8pm daily, US$6-16) has the only entrance to the cenote, and doesn’t charge admission if you order something.
Gilberto Silva Gallery
Gilberto Silva, an accomplished sculptor of Maya art, has a small gallery and workshop (Calle 26 btwn Calles 5 and 7, tel. 983/834-2657, hours vary) where some of his works are displayed and sold. Most are intricately carved limestone pieces, which are then cast in clay. Notably, his works have been displayed at the Museum of Natural History in New York City.
Every July, the town of Bacalar celebrates San Joaquín, its patron saint. For nine consecutive days, different neighborhoods host festive celebrations, each trying to outdo the other for the year’s best party. Visitors are welcome and should definitely join the fun—expect plenty of food, music, dancing, and performances of all sorts. Cockfights also are popular, and a three-day hydroplane race usually follows the festivities in early August.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Ecotours
A friendly German couple founded Active Nature (Hotel Villas Ecotucán, Hwy. 307 Km. 27.3, cell. tel. 983/120-5742, www.activenaturebacalar.com) after fate and car trouble cut short their planned tour of the Americas and left them in lovely Laguna Bacalar. Tour options include kayaking through mangrove channels to hidden lagoons and freshwater beaches, sunset and moonlight outrigger canoe rides, biking to a great curassow breeding reserve and research center, and morning bird-watching walks. Prices range US$12.50-50 per person, including gear and often lunch and water; children under 10 are free, under 14 half off. Tours begin at Villas Ecotucán, whose guests get a 10 percent discount. Multiday kayak and paddle sailing tours are also available.
Páay bej Tours (Av. 5 btwn Calles 24 and 26, tel. 983/839-0830, www.bacalar-tours-paaybej.com) also offers kayaking tours of the lagoon and mangrove channels (US$37.50 pp), bike tours around the village with a visit to Fuerte San Felipe (US$17 pp), and guided tours of Chacchoben and other Maya ruins (US$37.50 pp, including transport and entrance fees). You can also rent bikes here (US$1.75/hour, US$8.50/day).
Kayaking
The Club de Vela Bacalar (Av. Costera at Calle 20, tel. 983/834-2478, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) rents kayaks for US$8.50 per hour (single or double). Active Nature (Hotel Villas Ecotucán, Hwy. 307 Km. 27.3, cell. tel. 983/120-5742, www.activenaturebacalar.com) organizes kayaking tours, as does the local tour company, Páay bej Tours (Av. 5 btwn Calles 24 and 26, tel. 983/839-0830, www.bacalar-tours-paaybej.com).
Swimming
The Balneario Ejidal de Bacalar (Av. Costera near Calle 26, no phone, 7am-7pm, US$0.75) is a public swimming area complete with palapas for rent (US$3/day), bathrooms, and a restaurant (9am-7pm, US$3-10). Located just 250 meters (0.2 mile) from the central plaza, it’s a convenient and inexpensive place to enjoy the water.
The pier at the Club de Vela Bacalar (Av. Costera at Calle 20, tel. 983/834-2478, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) is one of the best places to swim in town, with a long footbridge leading to a swimming dock, where the water is crystal clear and deep. Order something from the restaurant and stay as long as you want.
Other good swimming spots on Laguna Bacalar include Rancho Encantado (2 kilometers/1.2 miles north of town, tel. 983/8397900, www.encantado.com) and Hotel Laguna Bacalar (Blvd. Costero 479, tel. 983/834-2206, www.hotellagunabacalar.com); plan on ordering something from the hotel restaurant to be able to use the waterfront.
Yoga and Spa
Nueva Gaia (Av. 3 near Calle 18, tel. 983/834-2963, www.gaia-maya.com, 8am-4pm Tues.-Sun.) offers various types of massage, from relaxation massage (US$48, 60 minutes) to hot stone massages (US$66, 80 minutes), in its holistic center near the central plaza.
ACCOMMODATIONS
In Town
One of the area’s most charming and convenient accommodations, Casita Carolina (Av. Costera btwn Calles 16 and 18, tel. 983/8342334, www.casitacarolina.com, US$37.50-58.50 s/d, US$30-50 s/d with shared kitchen) offers lagoon-front units that open onto a large grassy garden. Units are either stand-alone or occupy a converted home, but all have a private bathroom, a fan, and a homey feel. The friendly American owner lives on-site and is a wealth of information on area sights.
Find utter tranquility at little-visited Laguna Bacalar.
© LIZA PRADO
Hotelito Paraíso (Av. Costera at Calle 14, tel. 983/834-2787, www.hotelitoelparaiso.unlugar.com, US$54 s/d with a/c) has 14 stark hotel rooms, with minifridge, cable TV, and Wi-Fi. All open onto a large grassy area that runs to the lakeshore; there’s a palapa shade, plenty of chairs, and even a grill. Kayaks also are available for rent for US$4.50 per hour.
Outside of Town
Villas Ecotucán (Hwy. 307 Km. 27.3, cell. tel. 983/120-5743, www.villasecotucan.info, US$62.50-71 s/d) has five palapa-roofed cabañas and one suite, each spacious and simple, with a veranda to enjoy the view of the lake and surrounding tropical forest. Rates include two adults and two kids under 12, full breakfast for all, and use of the kayaks, dock, and trails. Guided excursions—bike, kayak, sailboat, and on foot—also are available.
Rancho Encantado (Hwy. 307 Km. 24, tel. 983/839-7900, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/229-2046, www.encantado.com, US$120-142 s/d with fan, US$127-221 with a/c, breakfast included) has spacious palapa-roofed casitas and modern suites, both featuring Mexican tile floors, good beds, and views of either the lush garden or the lagoon. The prettiest spot here, however, is a pier that leads to a shady dock strung with hammocks—it’s perfect for swimming and relaxing. Guests can receive massages and body treatments in a small kiosk built over the lake; a hot tub is nearby. The only downer here is the persistent hum of traffic from nearby Highway 307.
Built on a bluff just south of town, Hotel Laguna Bacalar (Blvd. Costero 479, tel. 983/834-2205, www.hotellagunabacalar.com, US$89 s/d with a/c) has spacious rooms, most with a balcony and dramatic views of the lagoon. The decor, once seriously kitschy, has been toned down to a bit of shell art. Stairs zigzag down to the water, where a pier, ladder, and a diving board make swimming in the lagoon easy. There’s a small pool, too. Wi-Fi also is available for a nominal daily fee.
FOOD
For good cheap eats, Cocina Orizaba (Av. 7 btwn Calles 24 and 26, tel. 983/834-2069, 8am-6pm daily, US$3.50-10) serves a variety of classic Mexican dishes. The daily comida corrida (lunch special) includes an entrée, main dish, and drink.
On the main plaza, Restaurante y Pizzeria Bertilla (Av. 5 at Calle 20, cell. tel. 983/123-4567, 4pm-11pm Tues.-Sun., US$6-15) specializes in homemade pasta and pizza. Some traditional Mexican dishes are available, too.
El Carboncito (central plaza, Av. 5 near Calle 20, 7pm-11pm daily, US$2.50-6) is a popular puesto (food stand) that serves up grilled favorites like hot dogs, hamburgers, and tacos. If you want your meal to go, let the cook know it’s “para llevar.”
Groceries
Dunosusa (Calle 22 btwn Avs. 3 and 5, 7:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 8:30am-8pm Sun.) is a well-stocked supermarket on the central plaza.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
Bacalar does not have a tourist information office yet, but www.bacalarmosaico.com is a bilingual website offering useful information on the area’s sights, activities, and businesses.
Emergency Services
The Centro de Salud (Av. 3 btwn Calles 22 and 24, tel. 983/834-2756, 24 hours) offers basic medical care; for serious matters, head to Chetumal. For meds, try Farmacia San Joaquín (Av. 7 btwn Calles 20 and 22, no phone, 8am-3pm and 6pm-9pm daily). The police station (Calle 20 near Av. 3, toll-free Mex. tel. 066, 24 hours) is located across from the Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar.
BACALAR BUS SCHEDULE
Departures from the bus terminal (Hwy. 307 near Calle 30, no phone) are almost all de paso (mid-route service), which means there’s often a limited availability of seats. Destinations include:
There is no bank in town, but there is a Banorte ATM on the west side of the central plaza. If you need other money services or the ATM has run out of cash, the closest bank is in Chetumal.
Media and Communications
The post office (Av. 3 near Calle 24, 8am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.) is just east of the Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar. For email try the no name Internet (Av. 5 near Calle 24, 9am-10pm daily, US$1/hour), operated out of the living room of a private home. For telephone calls, your best bet is to use the public phones on the central plaza; Ladatel telephone cards can be purchased at the supermarket and at most corner stores.
Laundry
Lavandería Lolita (Av. 7 btwn Calles 24 and 26, tel. 983/834-2069, 9am-8pm daily) offers same-day service for US$1 per kilo (2.2 pounds). Pickup and delivery are available.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
You can easily walk to all the sites of interest in Bacalar, with the exception of Cenote Azul. A taxi there from town costs around US$3; cabs typically wait for passengers around the central plaza and on Avenida 7 in front of Iglesia San Joaquín.
Bus
Bacalar’s modest bus terminal (Hwy. 307 near Calle 30) is on the highway, about a 20-minute walk from the central plaza. The buses are almost exclusively de paso (midroute) service, which means there’s often limited availability (i.e., as soon as you know your schedule, buy your ticket).
Combi
Combis and taxi colectivos (US$2-3, every 30 minutes) run between Bacalar and Chetumal daily. You can catch either in front of Iglesia San Joaquín (Calle 22 near Av. 7), one block up from the central plaza.
Chetumal is the capital of Quintana Roo and the gateway to Central America. It’s not the prettiest of towns, and most travelers just pass through on their way to or from Belize or southern Campeche. However, Chetumal’s modern Maya museum is one of the best you’ll find in the region (albeit with few original pieces) and is well worth a visit. And if you’re dying to see the Guatemalan ruins of Tikal, a shuttle from Chetumal can get you there in eight hours (cutting through Belize) and back again just as fast; a 90-minute boat ride also will take you to San Pedro, Belize, for a quick overnighter. The area around Chetumal is worth exploring, too, whether the bayside town of Calderitas or the intriguing and little-visited Maya ruins of Kohunlich, Dzibanché, Kinichná, and Oxtankah. North of town is Laguna Bacalar, a beautiful multicolored lake with great swimming and kayaking.
SIGHTS
Museo de la Cultura Maya
One of the best museums in the region, the Maya Culture Museum (Av. de los Héroes at Calle Cristóbal Colón, tel. 983/832-6838, 9am-7pm Tues.-Sun., US$5) extends over three levels—the upper represents the world of gods, the middle the world of humans, and the lower Xibalba, the underworld. Each floor has impressive, well-designed exhibits describing Maya spiritual beliefs, agricultural practices, astronomy and counting, and more, all in English and Spanish. In fact, the only thing lacking is original artifacts. (The copies, however, are quite good.) The exhibition area past the ticket booth usually has good temporary art shows, plus a cinema that hosts free screenings of independent films.
Monumento al Mestizo
Across from the Museo de la Cultura Maya is the Monumento al Mestizo (Av. de los Héroes s/n), a striking sculpture symbolizing the creation of a new race—the mestizo—through the union of the Spanish shipwrecked sailor Gonzalo Guerrero and Zazil Há, a Maya woman. Hernán Cortés offered to take Guerrero back to Spain, but Guerrero chose to stay in the Americas, wedding Zazil Há in a Maya marriage ritual. Note that the Maya symbol for the number zero as well as the cycle of life, the snail shell, provides the framework for the entire work of art.
Museo de la Ciudad
The city museum (Calle Héroes de Chapultepec btwn Avs. Juárez and de los Héroes, tel. 983/832-1350, 9am-7pm Tues.-Sat., 9am-2pm Sun., US$1) is small and well organized, and describes the political, economic, and cultural history of Chetumal, spanning the period from its founding in 1898 to the present day. Signage is in Spanish only.
El Malecón
Running six kilometers (3.7 miles) on the Boulevard Bahía, this breezy promenade makes for a fine bayfront stroll. Along it you’ll find cafés, monuments, a lighthouse, government buildings, and, hopefully, a cooling breeze. Of particular note are two impressive murals found within the Palacio Legislativo (end of Av. Reforma, 9am-10pm Mon.-Fri.), a shell-shaped building that houses the State Congress. Created by local artist Elio Carmichael, one mural outlines the state’s history—from the creation of man to the devastating effects of Hurricane Janet in 1955—while the other depicts the law of the cosmos. Both are located in the reception area and are free for public viewing.
The Museo de la Cultura Maya in Chetumal has fascinating displays on Maya sculpture, writing, mathematics, astronomy, and more.
© LIZA PRADO
Maqueta Payo Obispo
The Maqueta Payo Obispo (Calle 22 de Enero near Av. Reforma, 9am-7pm Tues.-Sun., free) is a scale model of Chetumal as it looked in the 1930s, with brightly colored clapboard houses, grassy lots, and plenty of palm trees. It’s a reproduction of a model made by longtime resident Luis Reinhardt McLiberty. Look for it in a glass-enclosed building across the street from the Palacio Legislativo, though glare on sunny days can make it hard to see the exhibit. A small history museum of the city also is on-site; signage is in Spanish only.
Trolley Tours
For a breezy overview of Chetumal’s attractions, consider taking Bule Buzz (cell. tel. 983/120-5223, US$8 adult, US$5 child), a guided trolley tour of the city. Sites visited include the murals in the Palacio Legislativo, the sculptures along Boulevard Bahía, the Maqueta Payo Obispo, and the Museo de la Cultura Maya. The trolley leaves from the Monumento al Mestizo at noon and 3pm Tuesday-Saturday and 11am Sunday; admission to the Museo de la Cultura Maya also is included.
ENTERTAINMENT AND SHOPPING
Sunday on El Malecón
Every Sunday at 6pm, locals gather at the Esplanada de la Bandera (southern end of Av. de los Héroes) to enjoy city-sponsored events, typically performances by the municipal band or local musicians and singers. The events are free and family friendly, with vendors selling drinks and street food.
If you’re hankering to watch the latest Hollywood film, head to Cinépolis (Plaza Las Americas, Av. Insurgentes s/n, tel. 983/837-6043, www.cinepolis.com, US$3-5), an 11-screen theater where most films are in English with Spanish subtitles.
Shopping
Educal (Av. de los Héroes at Calle Cristóbal Colón, cell. tel. 983/129-2832, www.educal.com.mx, 9am-7pm Tues.-Sat., 9am-2pm Sun.) is a good bookstore located inside the Museo de la Cultura Maya.
Mercado Ignacio Manuel Altamirano (Efraín Aguilar btwn Avs. Belice and de los Héroes, 8am-4pm daily) is a two-story building mostly selling everyday items, from clothing to kitchenware. For travelers, it’s a good place to buy a pair of flip-flops, a travel clock, or kitschy souvenirs.
Plaza Las Ámericas (Av. Insurgentes s/n, 9am-10pm daily) is a classic shopping mall with clothing and shoe boutiques, a Chedraui supermarket, a megaplex movie theater, and all the typical amenities, like ATMs, food court, and public bathrooms.
The Zona Libre (Corozal Duty Free Zone, 9am-7pm daily) is an area jam-packed with stores selling products from around the world. It’s located in Belize, and visitors can enter and leave the area without passports or paying taxes on their purchases, mostly household and personal items. (There’s a US$1 entrance fee, however.)
ACCOMMODATIONS
Chetumal’s status as the state capital and its location on the Belize border make it a busy town, and reservations are recommended.
Under US$50
Hotel Xcalak (Av. 16 de Septiembre at Av. Mahatma Gandhi, cell. tel. 983/129-1708, www.hotelxcalak.com.mx, US$38 s/d with a/c) is the best budget deal in town: modern rooms with tasteful decor, strong but quiet air-conditioning, SKY TV, and wireless Internet. The hotel restaurant also provides room service (though you’ve got to order in person). The hotel is located one block from the Museo de la Cultura Maya.
Next door, the aqua-colored Hotel Ucúm (Av. Mahatma Gandhi btwn Avs. 5 de Mayo and 16 de Septiembre, tel. 983/832-0711, www.hotelucumchetumal.com, US$18 s/d with fan, US$23 s/d with fan and cable TV, US$32 s/d with a/c and cable TV) has aging but clean rooms. Beds are hit or miss, unfortunately, and some rooms can be downright stuffy (ask for one on the top floor for the best breeze). There’s a decent pool on-site with a separate wading area for kids. There’s also a secure parking lot.
US$50-100
Hotel Caribe Princess Express (Av. Alvaro Obregón btwn Avs. 5 de Mayo and 16 de Septiembre, tel. 983/832-0900, toll-free Mex. tel. 866/337-7342, US$42 s with a/c, US$50 d with a/c, US$64 suite with a/c) has comfortable nondescript rooms with decent beds, cable TV, and powerful air-conditioning. There’s Wi-Fi in the lobby and a self-serve breakfast (i.e., toast, cereal, fruits) every day. Ask for a room facing the interior of the building; the karaoke bar in front blasts music—and keeps the windows rattling—until late.
Hotel Los Cocos (Av. de los Héroes at Calle Héroes de Chapultepec, tel. 983/835-0430, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/719-5840, www.hotelloscocos.com.mx, US$76-152 s/d with a/c) has three categories of rooms, all pleasant with updated furnishings and modern amenities. The more expensive ones have flat-screen TVs, quiet air conditioning, and more stylish decor. They all open onto a lush garden, which has a small inviting pool area. The on-site restaurant is great for breakfast.
Over US$100
Holiday Inn Chetumal-Puerta Maya (Av. de los Héroes near Av. Mahatma Gandhi, tel. 983/835-0400, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/465-4329, www.holidayinn.com, US$100-132 s/d with a/c) is the nicest hotel in town, with marble floors, wood-beam ceilings, and high-end amenities. There’s a gym on-site, as well as a well-maintained pool, which is surrounded by a tropical garden. Kids also stay for free. Be sure to check the website for reservations—there often are terrific deals.
Outside of Chetumal
On the road to the like-named ruins, Explorean Kohunlich (tel. 555/201-8350, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/504-5000, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/343-7821, www.theexplorean.com, US$320-640 suite), is a luxurious resort with 40 deluxe suites set on 30 hectares (74 acres) of tropical forest. Each has gleaming stone floors, high palapa ceilings, elegant furnishings, and privacy walls for sunbathing. Two suites also have plunge pools. The main building houses a fine restaurant (7:30am-10:30pm daily, US$12-24, open to nonguests), a full-service spa, and a lap pool that overlooks the jungle (you can see the ruins at Kohunlich from here). One excursion per day—rappelling in the jungle, kayaking through a crocodile reserve, or mountain biking through forgotten forests—is included. Transportation to and from Chetumal’s airport also is thrown in.
FOOD
Restaurante El Fenicio (Av. de los Héroes at Calle Zaragoza, tel. 983/832-0026, 24 hours, US$4-10) is a local favorite, not only because it’s open around-the-clock but also because of its tasty, reliable meals. Be sure to try the “make your own taco” dish, a platter stacked with chicken, chorizo, beef, and melted cheese, served with tortillas and all the fixings.
A buzzing little place, Café Los Milagros (Calle Ignacio Zaragoza near Av. 5 de Mayo, tel. 983/832-4433, 7:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 7:30am-1pm Sun., US$3-7) serves up strong coffee drinks and especially good breakfasts. The best seating is outdoors—snag a table where you can, as it can get crowded fast.
Located on the Malecón, Las Arracheras de Don José (Blvd. Bahía at Calle Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez, tel. 983/832-8895, 6pm-1am daily, US$4-10) serves some of the best tacos in town. Try the tacos de arrachera (broiled skirt steak marinated in lemon and spices), which can only be improved when downed with a cold beer.
Sergio’s Pizza (Av. 5 de Mayo at Av. Alvaro Obregón, tel. 983/832-0491, 7am-midnight daily, US$5-17) serves much more than pizza in its dimly lit dining room. The extensive menu covers the gamut of Italian and Mexican dishes—from meat lasagna to molletes rancheros. Meals are hearty, making it popular with families.
Super Bodegón (Calle Cristóbal Colón btwn Avs. Belice and de los Héroes, 5am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 5am-3pm Sun.) is a grocery store with an impressive selection of fresh fruits and veggies. Canned goods, dry foods, and basic toiletries are also sold.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
Near the waterfront, the city tourist office (Av. 5 de Mayo at Carmen Ochoa de Merino, tel. 983/835-0860, 8:30am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri.) has a decent selection of brochures and maps. There also is a tourist information booth in the main bus terminal (Av. Insurgentes at Av. de los Héroes, 9am-8pm daily).
Emergency Services
About two kilometers (1.2 miles) from the center of town, Hospital General de Chetumal (Avs. Andrés Quintana Roo at Juan José Isiordia, tel. 983/832-8194, 24 hours) is the city’s main hospital. For meds, try Farmacia Similares (Av. de los Héroes near Calle Plutarco Elias, tel. 983/833-2232, 8am-9pm daily) or its sister store (Calle Cristóbal Colón btwn Avs. Belice and de los Héroes, tel. 983/833-2331), which is open 24 hours. The police can be reached by dialing toll-free 066.
Money
HSBC (Av. Othon Blanco btwn Av. 5 de Mayo and Av. de los Héroes, 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat.) and Banorte (Av. de los Héroes btwn Lázaro Cárdenas and Plutarco Elias, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) are both conveniently located downtown. There also is an ATM at the bus station.
Media and Communications
The post office (Av. Plutarco Elias Calles btwn Avs. 5 de Mayo and 16 de Septiembre, 8am-4pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-1pm Sat.) is just a block from the main drag. For Internet access, there is a string of Internet cafés across from the Mercado Ignacio Manuel Altamirano (Efraín Aguilar btwn Avs. Belice and de los Héroes); most charge US$1 per hour and are open 7am-midnight daily. At the main bus station, Cafeteria El Kiosko (8am-8pm daily) has a row of computers (US$1.50/hour) and telephone service (US$0.50/minute worldwide).
Immigration
The immigration office (Calzada del Centenario 582, tel. 983/832-6353, 9am-1pm Mon.-Fri.) is located on the road to Calderitas; signage is hard to spot, so keep your eyes peeled for the building.
Laundry and Storage
Though catering primarily to hotels and restaurants, Lavandería Industrial (Av. Mahatma Ghandi near Av. 16 de Septiembre, no phone, 8am-8pm daily) charges US$1.25 per kilo (2.2 pounds) and also takes small loads. There is no signage, so listen for the huge dryers and look for huge piles of tablecloths—it’s surprisingly easy to miss.
Conveniently located in the main bus station, Lockers, Revistas y Novedades Laudy (Av. Insurgentes at Av. de los Héroes, 8am-8pm daily) stores bags for US$0.50 per hour.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Chetumal is a relatively large city, but the parts most travelers are interested in are all within easy walking distance—mostly along Avenida de los Héroes and El Malecón. The exception is the main bus terminal and Mercado Nuevo, both of which are 10-12 grubby blocks from the center. A cab to either terminal, or anywhere around downtown, costs US$2-3.
Air
The Chetumal Airport (CTM, tel. 983/832-6625) receives only a few flights each day. Airlines serving it include Interjet (toll-free Mex. tel. 800/011-2345, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/285-9525, www.interjet.com.mx) and the air taxi service Avioquintana (tel. 998/734-1975, www.avioquintana.com).
Bus
All first-class buses leave from the main bus terminal (Av. Insurgentes at Av. de los Héroes, tel. 983/832-5110, ext. 2404), though most second-class buses stop here on the way in or out of town.
The second-class bus station (Avs. Belice and Cristóbal Colón, tel. 983/832-0639) is located just west of the Museo de la Cultura Maya; tickets for first-class buses also can be purchased here if you want to buy your tickets in advance but don’t want to make the trek to the main terminal.
Two other terminals—the Minibus terminal (Av. Primo de Verdad at Av. Miguel Hidalgo, no phone) and Mercado Nuevo (Av. de los Héroes and Circuito Segundo, no phone)—have service to Bacalar, the Zona Libre, and to Belize.
Combi
Combis and taxi colectivos (US$1.50-2, every 30 minutes) run between Chetumal and Bacalar daily. You can catch either on Avenida Independencia at Calle Héroes de Chapultepec.
Car
The highways in this area are now all paved and well maintained. Car rental agencies in town include Continental Rent-a-Car (Holiday Inn, Av. de los Héroes near Av. Mahatma Gandhi, tel. 983/832-2411, www.continentalcar.com.mx, 8am-8pm daily) and Europcar (Chetumal Noor Hotel, Blvd. Bahía at Ave. José Maria, tel. 983/833-9959, www.europcar.com, 8am-8pm daily).
CHETUMAL BUS SCHEDULE
Departures from Chetumal’s main bus terminal (Av. Insurgentes at Av. de los Héroes, tel. 983/832-7806) are for first-class service, though some second-class buses stop here as well (tickets for either service can be purchased downtown, in the second-class bus terminal (Av. Beiice at Av. Cristóbal Colón). Destinations from the main bus terminal include:
Buses for Corozal (US$4.50, 1 hour), Orangewalk (US$6, 2 hours), and Belize City (US$9.50, 3 hours) leave the Mercado Nuevo (Av. de los Héroes at Circuito Segundo, no phone) 18 times daily 4:30am-6:30pm. Some pass the main ADO terminal en route.
Buses to the Zona Libre (US$2, 30 minutes) leave the Minibus terminal (Av. Primo de Verdad at Av. Miguel Hidalgo, no phone) every 15 minutes 6:30am-8pm.
Taxi
Taxis can be flagged down easily in downtown Chetumal. Few are metered, so be sure to agree on a price before you set off toward your destination.
Water Taxi
San Pedro Water Jets Xpress (Blvd. Bahía near Av. Independencia, tel. 983/833-3201, www.sanpedrowatertaxi.com) offers direct service to Ambergris Caye, Belize. Trips take 90 minutes and leave at 3:30pm daily, returning the following day at 8am (US$40 one-way, US$75 round-trip). Transfers to Caye Caulker and Belize City are also available.
The area around Chetumal has a number of worthwhile attractions, all the better because so few travelers linger here.
CALDERITAS
Located just seven kilometers (4 miles) north of Chetumal, Calderitas is a bayside town known for its seafood restaurants (8am-6pm daily, US$4-10)—most along the waterfront across from the main plaza—and its public beaches. During the week it’s a mellow scene, but on weekends locals descend upon the town for a day of R&R and some revelry, too.
Boat rides can be arranged at many of the bayside establishments to explore Chetumal Bay (US$150, up to 8 people) in search of manatees, which were once abundant in these waters, or to visit Isla Tamalcab (US$40, up to 8 people), an uninhabited island with white-sand beaches and good snorkeling, and home to spider monkeys and tepescuintles (pacas in English).
If you want to stay overnight, the best place in town is Yax Há Resort (Av. Yucatán 415, tel. 983/834-4127, www.yaxha-resort.com, US$8.50 pp camping, US$20-30 per RV, US$42-58 s/d with fan, US$125 s/d with a/c and kitchenette). Located on the waterfront, it offers everything from camp- and RV sites to bungalows. The bungalows themselves range from simple one-room units with a minifridge and microwave to two-bedroom units with fully equipped kitchens; all have porches with chairs that overlook the bay. There also is a pool on-site and a restaurant, too.
Spanish missionaries often had their churches built alongside or atop ancient Maya ruins, like this chapel and archway found at the Oxtankah ruins near Chetumal.
© LIZA PRADO
Getting There
Calderitas is a quick bus ride from downtown Chetumal. Combis leave from Avenida Cristóbal Colón, behind the Museo de la Cultura Maya, roughly every half hour 6am-9pm daily (US$0.50, 15 minutes). If you’ve got a car, head east out of Chetumal on Boulevard Bahía, which becomes the main drag in Calderitas. Alternatively (though less scenic), take Avenida Insurgentes east until you get to the turnoff, and follow the signs from there.
OXTANKAH ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE
Oxtankah (8am-5pm daily, US$4) is a small archaeological site whose name means Between Branches, so called by early archaeologists after the many trees growing amid, and on top of, the structures. Relatively little is known about Oxtankah—including its true name—but it probably arose during the Classic era, between AD 300 and 600, and was dedicated primarily to trade and salt production. At its height, the city extended to the shores of Chetumal Bay and included the island of Tamalcab.
Oxtankah’s principal structures were constructed in this period, suggesting it was a fairly robust city, but it was apparently abandoned around AD 600, for unknown reasons. The city was reoccupied by Maya settlers almost a thousand years later, in the 14th or 15th century, during which time a number of structures were expanded or enhanced. It was still occupied, mostly by modest earthen homes, when the first Spanish explorers arrived.
Some researchers have suggested the infamous Spaniard castaway Gonzalo Guerrero lived here; Guerrero was shipwrecked in this area in 1511 and adopted Maya ways, even marrying a chieftain’s daughter. Their children are considered the New World’s first mestizos, or mixed-race people.
In 1531, conquistador Alonso de Avila attempted to found a colonial city on the site, but he was driven out after two years of bitter conflict with local residents. He did manage to have a Franciscan chapel built, the skeleton of which remains, including an impressive eight-meter-tall (26-foot) arch.
Today, most of the excavated structures in Oxtankah surround two plazas: Abejas (Bees) plaza, the city’s main ceremonial and elite residential center, and the somewhat smaller Columnas (Columns) plaza, whose large palace probably served an administrative function. Architecturally, the structures are more closely related to those of the Petén region (present-day Guatemala) than to Yucatecan ones, suggesting a close relationship with that area. There’s a small museum on-site; signage is in Spanish only.
Getting There
Oxtankah is located seven kilometers (4 miles) north of Calderitas, about one kilometer (0.6 mile) off the bayside road. There’s no public transportation to the site; a cab from Calderitas costs US$3 each way; one from Chetumal will run about US$18 round-trip, including wait time.
KOHUNLICH ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE
Swallowed by the jungle over the centuries, Kohunlich (8am-5pm daily, US$4) was first discovered in 1912 by American explorer Raymond Merwin, but it was not until the 1960s that excavation of the site began in earnest. Today, the ruins are in harmony with the surrounding vegetation; wandering through it, you’ll be rewarded with more than 200 structures, stelae, and uncovered mounds that have trees growing out of them and moss spreading over their stones—a beautiful sight. Most date to the Late Preclassic (AD 100-200) through the Classic (AD 600-900) periods.
Kohunlich’s most famous and compelling structure is the Temple of the Masks. Constructed in AD 500, it features six two-meter-tall (6.6-foot) stucco masks, believed to be representations of the Maya sun god, with star-incised eyes, mustaches, and nose plugs. Intriguingly, each is slightly different, leading some to speculate that they also represent successive members of the ruling dynasty; it would not have been unusual for the city’s elite to draw an overt connection between themselves and a high god.
Southwest of the Temple of the Masks is 27 Escalones, the largest and most impressive residential area in Kohunlich. Built on a cliff with a spectacular bird’s-eye view of the jungle, it is one of the largest palaces in the Maya world, reached by climbing its namesake 27 steps. As you walk through the site, keep an eye out for aguadas (cisterns) that once were part of a complex system of Kohunlich’s reservoirs.
Getting There
Kohunlich is located about 60 kilometers (37 miles) west of Chetumal. By car, take Highway 186 west and turn south (left) at the sign to Kohunlich. An 8.5-kilometer (5.3-mile) paved road leads straight to the site. There is no public transportation to the site.
DZIBANCHÉ AND KINICHNÁ ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONES
If the crowds at Chichén Itzá and Tulum get you down, these picturesque twin ruins may be the antidote you need. Dzibanché and its smaller neighbor, Kinichná, see very few visitors—it’s not uncommon to have them to yourself, in fact—and feature modest-size temples in varying states of restoration. (A great many structures aren’t excavated at all, but even they—abrupt tree-covered mounds—hold a certain mystery and appeal.)
Dzibanché
The larger of the two sites, Dzibanché is Yucatec Maya for Etched in Wood, a name created by archaeologists in reference to a wood lintel inscribed with hieroglyphics that was found in one of the primary temples. A date on the lintel reads AD 618, and the site seems to have flourished between AD 300 and AD 800. Archaeologists believe this area was occupied by a sprawling, widely dispersed city that covered some 40 square kilometers (25 square miles).
The site has three main plazas, each higher than the next. Dzibanché’s namesake lintel is still in the temple atop Structure VI, also called the Building of the Lintels, facing one of the plazas. Unfortunately, climbing Structure VI is no longer allowed, but it’s just one of several large pyramids here, the rest of which you can clamber up. The largest is Structure II, with an ornate temple at its summit where archaeologists found a tomb of a high-ranking leader (judging from the rich offering found with his remains). The steep stairways and lofty upper temples here are reminiscent of Tikal and other temples in the Petén area of present-day Guatemala, suggesting a strong connection between the two regions.
Kinichná (House of the Sun) has just one structure, but it’s a biggie: a massive pyramid whose summit affords a great view of the surrounding countryside. The structure has three distinct levels, each built in a different era over the course of around 400 years. As you climb up, it’s fascinating to observe how the craftsmanship and artistry changed—generally for the better—over the centuries. At the top is a stucco image of the sun god, hence the site’s name. As in Structure II in Dzibanché, archaeologists uncovered a tomb here, this one containing the remains of two people and a cache of fine jade jewelry and figurines.
Practicalities
Dzibanché and Kinichná are open 8am-5pm daily; admission is US$4 and valid for both archaeological zones. There is no public transportation to or from the area, and precious little local traffic, so a car (or tour van) is essential. To get here, look for the turnoff 50 kilometers (31 miles) west of Chetumal on Highway 186, before reaching the town of Francisco Villa; from there it’s 15 kilometers (9 miles) north down a bumpy dirt road. You’ll reach Kinichná first, then Dzibanché about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) later.
