As we’ve seen, over the centuries different cultures around the globe have invented their own ways of interlacing threads, using a variety of tools and frames to achieve their goals. Even so, there are sometimes surprising similarities in patterns and techniques across time and space.
Weaving can be broadly defined as forming fabric by interlacing threads, whether yarn, fabric strips, plant fibers, or other materials. In some of the projects in this section we explore ways of creating fabric that aren’t strictly weaving as we commonly think of it. While the threads in these projects do go over and under each other, we include techniques such as braiding, knotless netting, and Viking knitting, as well as kantha and sashiko, which are needle-weaving techniques from India and Japan, respectively.
Lucet-Braid Floor Mat
One thing I’ve always loved about weaving is that you can weave a sturdy rug one day and completely switch gears the next to create an airy shawl. I found the same delightful diversity is possible with a simple little tool called a lucet.
Like so many tools and techniques in the weaving world, braiding with a lucet has a long history. The Vikings may have been the first to use the lucet at least 1,200 years ago in Scandinavia and other parts of northern Europe.
Today lucets are readily available online. Stephen Willette created the one shown here, where you can also find information about Stephen. Many are beautifully shaped and carved. It’s easy to be captivated by their lovely designs, but it’s also important to choose one that is comfortable in your hand. The only other thing required to begin braiding with a lucet is yarn — and that can be as lightweight as the Tencel used for the Beaded Bracelet or as heavy as the pin roving used for this small mat. The braiding technique is the same for both projects. It takes about 8 to 10 yards of yarn to make 1 yard of square braid, depending on the thickness of the yarn. For example, the mat required about 10 times the amount of pin roving as the length of braid needed to make the mat. —GS
You Will Need
175 yards of pin roving
Lucet
Scissors
Heavy-duty upholstery thread and sewing needle
Wool wash, such as Eucalan (optional)
Finished Measurement
22" in diameter
Braiding with the Lucet
1.Draw an 8" tail of yarn through the lucet’s threading hole from front to back. Hold the tail against the lucet as you proceed to the next steps.
2.Wrap the working yarn over the front of the right-hand fork and then across to the back of the left-hand fork, around to the front of the left-hand fork, and then across to the front of the right-hand fork, creating a figure 8. Position the last wrap above the loop already on the right-hand fork. Pick up that first loop and draw it up over the working yarn and off the fork to create the first knot.
3.Pull the tail and the working yarn to secure the knot, as you rotate the lucet clockwise and position the working yarn over the new right-hand fork, above the loop already on it. Pick up the first loop and draw it over the working yarn and off the fork, as you did in the preceding step.
4.Continue as in step 3 until the braid is the desired length. I wove a total of 17 yards of braid, in sections of various colors.
5.Finish the braid. After drawing a loop off the right-hand fork, but before rotating again, cut the yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Carefully draw the last loop off the right-hand fork and draw the tail through it to secure it. Remove the remaining loop from the left-hand fork, bring the tail through that, and pull gently to secure.
Assembling the Mat
6.Lay the first (center) braided strip on a work surface and arrange it in a spiral. You will notice that the braid is square. It’s important to prevent the braid from twisting as you sew the strips together: keep the same plane of the square facing up throughout the assembly.
7.Thread a doubled length of heavy-duty upholstery thread into your needle and knot the end. Take a small stitch into the side of the braid and then another small stitch into the side of the braid directly opposite. Continue to stitch back and forth between the sides as you build the spiral outward. This technique is called blind stitching. The goal is to keep your stitches hidden within the facing sides of the braid, but also small and close together so that the stitches don’t pull apart when the mat is in use.
8.When you need to begin a new strip, first butt the end of the new strip to the old and blind stitch the two ends firmly together. As before, take care to line up the planes of the square braids.
9.When you have used up the braid or your mat is the size you want, make a few small stitches at the end of the braid and taper it down to make a smooth edge.
10.Block the mat by immersing it in warm water for about 20 minutes to ensure it is thoroughly wet. You can add a capful of Eucalan or other wool wash, if you wish. Place the mat on a large terry-cloth towel and roll the two up together to remove some of the excess moisture from the mat. Lay the mat on a dry towel and use your hands to press it flat and even out any bumps or ripples. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
Beaded Bracelet
This delicate bracelet takes surprisingly little time to make. Because the process is both relaxing and meditative, you may find yourself going on to create others for your mother, daughters, cousins, and friends. One of the advantages of lucet braiding is that you don’t need to premeasure the yarn before you begin, so you can just keep braiding until you achieve the length you want without needing to join new yarn. —GS
You Will Need
Sewing needle and thread
21 seed beads, size 8°
8/2 Tencel or similar-weight cotton or silk yarn or thread, about 8 yards
Lucet
Scissors
Finished Measurement
36" long
Braiding the Bracelet
1.Thread 15 (or more) of the beads onto the yarn and push them down the yarn out of the way until needed.
Instead of using a beading needle or a dental floss threader, I threaded a 6" length of ordinary sewing thread through a sewing needle. I made an overhand knot to create a loop in the thread, then inserted a few inches of the yarn I was using for the bracelet through the loop. I then used the needle to pick up the beads and easily slide them over the looped sewing thread and onto the bracelet yarn.
2.Following the Braiding with the Lucet instructions, braid the bracelet yarn for about 6", or until you want to add a bead to the braid. Slide a bead up to the next knot and allow it to be caught up in the braid as you make the next couple of knots. Continue braiding for another 2", then draw up another bead. Repeat this procedure, adding another bead every 2" until the bracelet is the desired length (about 34"). Braid for another 6" before tying off.
3.Tie the 6" tails at each end of the braid together using an overhand knot, and then thread three more beads onto each tail, tying them on about 1" apart. Tie the bracelet together above the tails to form a loop. A 34" braid should be long enough to wrap around your wrist four or five times.
Spotlight
Stephen Willette
For more than 40 years, Stephen Willette has handcrafted furniture and cabinets using time-honored methods. Knowing that his work will last for generations, Stephen explains, “I enjoy the creative process of seeing raw materials develop into something that is beautiful and functional.”
A second-generation woodworker, Stephen learned to use woodworking tools at a very young age. His dovetail saw, handcrafted in Maine, inspires him to create works that honor that tool’s quality and craftsmanship. In turn, he hopes to kindle excellence in the people who use his tools for their craft.
In addition to furniture and cabinetry, Stephen, along with his wife, Linda, creates a line of handsome fiberworking tools, including lucets, tapestry looms, support spindles, and shuttles. He is a juried member of the League of New Hampshire Craftsmen and exhibits these tools widely, including at Vogue Knitting Live and many East Coast fiber festivals and shows. Look him up online to see his tutorials plus examples of work that a variety of weavers and spinners have created using his handsome tools.
Lucet and Braided Bowl, 2018
Merino wool; 4" × 11⁄2"
“When I work with wood,” Stephen says, “I am reminded of my responsibility to use it respectfully and wisely, understanding the need to sustain our natural resources. The natural beauty of the wood never ceases to amaze me, and I enjoy using different woods to contrast and complement each other.”
Knotless Netting Bottles
Looping and knotless netting are two ways of weaving a single strand of fiber around itself to create a web. Clay fragments containing twined and netted basketry have been found in central Europe dating from 25,000 years ago. This archeological evidence suggests these are among the oldest known fiber techniques and makes me feel a kinship with weavers through the ages.
Though they create similar-looking fabrics, the netting and looping processes differ. In looping, a single strand of fiber is passed through itself, not necessarily following even rows. Netting is a uniform, mesh-like fabric made by tying knots around a form to create evenly spaced rows. By wrapping the fiber around itself without actually tying a knot, knotless netting creates a strong and very stretchy fabric. Varying the tightness of the loops in these techniques can create a closely woven, dense fabric, a very open mesh, or anything in between. —DJ
You Will Need
Scissors
Hemp twine, 1–2 mm in diameter, or four-ply waxed linen cord, 12–15 yards
Tapestry needle
A bottle to work around
String or sewing thread
Instructions
1.Cut a manageable length of yarn, about 40" long. Make a slip knot with the yarn.
2.Wrap the short tail from the slip knot a couple of times around the circle formed by the slip knot to make the base row.
3.Thread the needle with the long length of yarn, leaving about a 6" tail.
4.Work the beginning rounds:
Round 1: Make 5 loops in the circle of the slip knot. To make a loop, take the needle from top to bottom behind the base row. Move the needle behind the base row (a) and over the working thread as it came out of the previous loop (b). Snug up the thread until you have the size loop you want (c). (5 loops)
I made the loops about 1⁄2" in diameter on the blue hemp version and about 3⁄4" on the purple waxed linen version.
Round 1a & b
Round 1c
Round 2: Make 2 loops in each loop from the previous round. (10 loops)
Round 3: Make 1 loop in each loop from the previous round (this is also called working a round even).
Round 4: Make 2 loops in each loop from the previous round. (20 loops)
Round 5: Work 1 round even.
Netting the Sides
5.Center what you’ve woven on the bottom of the bottle. Use four strings to tie it in place so it doesn’t move around while you continue working.
6.Work in even rounds up the sides of the bottle. As the girth of the bottle grows, increase the size of the loops. As the bottle gets narrower toward the top, draw the loops tighter.
7.When the netting is as high on the bottle as you wish, cut the yarn and secure the tail by carefully threading it back through the previous few loops. I prefer not to tie a knot as that can make a visual distortion on the edge of the weaving.
Bow-Loom Woven Belt
Bow looms are very simple weaving devices made by stringing the warp threads on a flexible stick. When warped, the loom looks like an archery bow. The weaving creates narrow bands, which many people adorn with beads.
Many cultures have used bow looms through the centuries: some northeastern Native American tribes used the bow loom to weave with porcupine quills to decorate necklaces, bracelets, and belts. Tribes also used wampum belts, or rows of beads woven together, as historical markers, ceremonial gifts, status symbols, and currency. In Thailand, bow looms have been used to weave ornate headdresses.
One contemporary version of the bow loom is made with a wooden dowel, duct tape, paper clips, and a piece of cardboard or stiff sponge. I put my own twist on this bow loom design and used some items from the local hardware store. —DJ
You Will Need
6 small zip ties
2 extendable back scratchers
Fiberglass stake like those used on “for sale” signs or for garden stakes (found at home improvement stores)
Scissors
Painter’s tape
Warp: 5/2 cotton, 100% cotton, 10–12 yards
Cardboard/shirt box strip trimmed to 1" × 5"
Pocket comb
Long blunt-tip needle
Weft: 3/2 pearl cotton, 100% cotton, in multiple colors, about 100 yards total
Two 11⁄2" D-rings
Sewing needle and thread
Making the Bow Loom
1.Use three zip ties to attach each back scratcher to an end of the stake. Align the teeth on both back scratchers so they face the same direction. Trim the tails of the ties, then wrap painter’s tape around the stake and the handles of the back scratchers to smooth out the bumps from the zip ties.
2.Cut lengths of warp yarn that are several inches longer than the stake. You will need the same number of warp threads as there are spaces in between your back-scratcher teeth.
3.Tie the warp threads together with an overhand knot close (1"–2") to one end. Position the knot on the concave side of the back scratcher.
4.Separate the warp threads, placing one in each opening between the teeth and coming over the smooth back side of the scratcher.
5.Stretch the warp threads along the stake to the smooth side of the back scratcher at the other end. Make sure the teeth of both back scratchers are facing the same direction.
6.Bring the warp threads over the smooth side and place them in order through the openings between the teeth. Pull the warp threads to have even tension, then tie a tight bow with all the threads.
It can be tricky to keep the threads in order and in the correct opening while you tie a bow and try to maintain an even tension on all six threads. Be patient and take your time on this step. This is the base for the rest of the project, and getting it right will make everything easier from here on.
7.Pull the warp threads tight, making the fiberglass stake bend and bow.
8.Pull again until the warp threads are very taut, making sure the six threads are evenly tensioned.
9.Tie a square knot on one end of the stake to secure the tension in place. The loom is now ready to weave on.
Setting up the Loom for Weaving
10.Cut the cardboard strip into two sections, each about 21⁄2" long. At the end of the loom closest to you, weave the first strip in an under/over pattern across the warp threads. Then weave the second strip in the opposite pattern, over/under. This forms a base for you to weave against.
I used the side of the comb with wider spaces and threaded in every third slot so there were two empty spaces between each warp thread.
11.Lay the pocket comb into the warp threads a few inches above the cardboard. Make sure the warp threads are evenly spaced in the teeth.
12.Secure the comb on the warp by adding painter’s tape on the tips of the comb teeth. This will keep your warp threads evenly spaced as you are weaving and prevent the fabric from drawing in too much. You will weave between the cardboard strips and the comb. Move the comb up as your weaving progresses.
Weaving
13.Thread the needle with the weft thread, then use the needle to weave over and under the warp threads. Push the weft into place with the needle as you would with a tapestry beater. Snug the weft thread up close to the edges so there are no loops sticking out from the edges, but be careful to not pull too tight, which can cause an indentation in the edge.
14.Weave the entire length of the loom, switching colors as you like. I randomly used weft colors from the chosen palette and varied the length of the stripes in no particular order. Be sure to snug each weft row against the previous row. Leave any weft tails hanging from the sides to be woven in later. Begin each new weft thread on the opposite side of the warp that you finished with the previous thread.
You want a weft-faced structure, meaning the weft threads should completely cover the warp threads. Using the specified yarns, I wove 57 ends (or rows of weft) per inch of weaving.
Finishing
15.After the belt is woven, remove the comb and untie the knots that are behind the back scratchers at both ends of the loom.
16.Take the belt off the loom. On the ends of the belt, bury the warp thread tails by weaving them back into the fabric following the warp threads. This will make a firm, secure end that doesn’t need to be hemmed.
17.Position the two D-rings on one end of the weaving and fold the belt end over the flat side of the rings. Stitch the belt end in place with the sewing needle and thread.
18.Bury the weft tails by needle-weaving them into the fabric following the warp threads.
Wire Necklaces
Evidence of trichinopoly chain, more commonly known as Viking knitting, dating from the eighth and ninth centuries has been discovered in Scandinavia and the British Isles. Although the common name includes “knitting,” this is, in fact, a type of weaving that ancient Vikings used to make jewelry, charms, clothing adornments, and other decorative items.
The chain is woven around a form, usually a dowel, so that the finished piece has a hollow center. After removing the dowel, you pull the chain through a series of increasingly smaller holes in a hardwood rectangle known as a draw plate. (An Internet search will offer selections for draw plates. Look for one with a wide variety of size openings.) Each pull through the draw plate makes the chain more compact and rigid. Compressing the overlapping chain layers sometimes results in a completely new and interesting surface. The finished piece is a flexible yet sturdy ropelike cord.
Because many variables affect how long the final piece will be after pulling, it’s difficult to say how long to make your original chain. The final chain will be anywhere between 130 and 200 percent longer than what you take off the dowel. The pulled length depends on the wire used, how many loops (or petals) are in the starter, how tightly the rows are pulled together, and many other factors. It’s always best to weave the chain longer than you think you might need because you can cut off some length, but you can’t add length after it’s taken off the dowel.
The following pages include instructions for three different necklaces, each one using a slightly different method. —DJ
24-gauge wire (for starting petal), 1 yard, plus wire specified for necklace of your choice
Piece of wood or stiff cardboard, 1"–11⁄2" high (optional)
Dowel, pencil, or Allen wrench to work around; about 3⁄8" in diameter and 6"–10" long
Rubber band or masking tape
Awl
Draw plate (with openings from 3⁄8" to 1⁄16")
Needle-nose pliers
Wire cutters
Pliers
Jewelry findings
Kumihimo diameter braid sizing tool (optional)
Epoxy
2" mini spring clamps (optional)
Rainbow Necklace
This version of a Viking knit necklace (seen above) is a wonderful beginning project. Its loose weave lets you easily practice the technique. You then pull the chain through the draw plate several times until you end up with a very narrow cord.
Additional Supplies
In addition to the materials listed, you will need 18 yards total of 28-gauge copper wire and, if desired, one or more large donut beads or a pendant.
The Petal (or Starting Point)
1.With the 24-gauge wire, make 4 even loops (each 1"–11⁄2" long) with the wire, leaving tails 4"–6" long at the beginning and the end. You have just made a 4-loop petal.
You can wrap the wire around a piece of cardboard or wood, or around your fingers, to get even loops.
2.Securely wrap one end of the wire around one end of the loops to firmly hold them together.
3.Center the connected hub of the petal on the end of the dowel with the loops hanging down around the dowel. Space the 4 loops evenly around the dowel, and fasten them to the dowel with a rubber band or piece of masking tape. With the awl, pull the loops so they are evenly spaced.
Weaving the Chain
4.Decide the order you will use the colors. Cut a piece of the 28-gauge weaving wire about 1 yard long of the first color. This will result in about 1" of woven chain. Hold the beginning tail of about 2" of the weaving wire down the side of the dowel and pointing away from the petals. Take the working end of the weaving wire and push it from right to left through the 1st loop of the first petal and back out over itself.
5.Take the wire to the petal on the right of the 1st petal. Pass the wire through this petal from right to left and then back over itself. Repeat step 5 until you are at the beginning loop.
6.Take the working end of the wire from right to left under the twist from the 1st loop, and bring it back out over itself, then travel from left to right to the next loop.
7.Repeat step 6 for all subsequent rounds. After each loop, pull the wire to snug it up and make the twist tight, keeping the tension on the loops as even as you can. Leave about 1⁄8" between each round of loops.
8.Continue weaving until you get to the end of the 1 yard length you cut of the first color. This will be about 1" of woven chain.
Adding a New Length of Wire
9.Push the wire end you've been weaving with through the twist from right to left as usual. Bend the wire down the dowel, away from the finished loops. Cut a new piece of wire about 1 yard long (in the next color you want to use) and insert the new tail in the opposite direction (left to right) of how you normally work under the twist.
10.Bend the new tail down and twist it together with the final end of the previous working wire, keeping the twist snug up against the previous row. Then bend both ends together down the dowel and away from the finished weaving. Use the needle-nose pliers to help twist the ends into place.
11.Work around the dowel, catching the tails with the twist as you work that loop in the rotation. These tails will be in the center of the tube and will not be noticeable after the piece is pulled through the draw plate.
Continue weaving with 36" lengths of wire, making about a 1" woven area with each of the nine colors, then repeat the colors in opposite order. You will have 2" of the ninth color in the middle of the chain. Leave the final end of wire hanging loose so you can use it to attach the findings.
Finishing
12.After weaving all the sections, slide the piece completely off the dowel.
13.Insert the beginning of the chain through the first hole in the draw plate so that the chain will easily fit through. Using the pliers to grip the petal wire along with the beginning couple of rows, pull the chain through the hole. Try to pull with an even and consistent pressure on the chain.
14.Repeat step 13, pulling the chain through progressively smaller holes in the draw plate until the cord is the diameter you want it to be.
15.Using the wire cutters, take out the petal wire.
16.With the pliers, compress the ends of the chain so they will fit in your findings. Use findings that are large enough to put the end of the chain in but small enough that it won’t wiggle around. If you use a kumihimo diameter sizing tool you will be able to determine exactly the size of finding you need. Just insert the finished chain in the series of holes until it fits easily; this is the diameter of your chain.
17.Following package directions, use epoxy to glue the ends of the chain into the findings. Be sure to use epoxy in a well-ventilated area.
18.Allow the epoxy to dry fully before testing the clasp.
I like to use mini spring clamps to secure the chain in the findings while the epoxy dries. This helps make sure the finding is not jostled or moved from its position on the chain.
19.If desired, slide the donut beads or pendant onto the chain.
Choker Chain
Sometimes when I wear an open collar, I love to have a choker that fits snugly around my neck. This intricate-looking chain makes a beautiful statement all by itself, but you can also add a Free-Form Pendant onto the choker!
Additional Supplies
In addition to the materials listed, you will need about 20 yards of 28-gauge silver-toned art wire.
Instructions
1.Follow steps 1–8 from Rainbow Necklace but do not change colors; use only silver-toned art wire for the chain.
2.Weave until the chain is about three-fourths as long as you want your finished choker to be, then slide the piece completely off the dowel. When planning how long you’d like your finished chain to be, remember that the findings will add some length to the choker. My finished length is 131⁄2", and I wove 9" before removing the chain from the dowel and adding 1" with the clasp. Again, it is possible to trim the chain if it is too long, but it cannot be made longer once taken off the dowel.
3.Follow steps 13 and 14 from Rainbow Necklace to pull the chain through the draw plate. When pulling through the draw plate, do not make this chain too thin and flimsy.
4.Follow steps 15–18, from Rainbow Necklace to secure the jewelry findings onto the finished choker.
Freya Chain
This variation produces a stiffer chain than the previous two versions. You begin in the same manner but after the first round of looping, move up 2 rounds and push the working wire under the twist. This makes a denser tube that will not elongate as much when pulled through the draw plate, resulting in a thicker chain. Freya was the goddess of love and fertility in Scandinavian mythology, so I named this piece in her honor.
Additional Supplies
In addition to the materials listed, you will need about 50 yards of 28-gauge silver-toned art wire.
2.Work the 2nd round into the same loops of the petal as the 1st round, but do not pull the loops as tight on the 2nd round. This will create some space between the loops in round 1 and round 2.
3.On the 3rd round, loop into the twist on the 1st round rather than into the twist on the 2nd round.
4.Repeat step 3, always working into the 2nd round above so you go around two twists rather than one twist.
